Nissan / Infiniti clicking noise - AC actuator (important updates in description)

Don't be fooled - this job is not easy, but it's also not hard, it's just a small space and time consuming. Buy good parts because you don't want to do this twice…or 3 times…how do I know?
Maintain confidence that you can fix this while you're doing the job. Especially when something goes wrong that wasn't in my video - if it does, just leave a comment and I (or others) will try to help. Most things in cars aren't really that hard to understand and you CAN do this.
In my latest repair of this problem (earlier today) it took me 45 minutes once I got everything ready. Thats much shorter than previous repairs but hopefully you will never do this more than once!
I found some errors in my video and want to point them out:
at 2:00 and 2:10, I point out two nuts that you do not need to actually remove - so skip those as I don’t think they come out.
Also at 3:30, I state that they are 8mm bolts - they are actually 7mm.
When I did this job the first time, I removed more plastic parts than I needed to. At 3:51, the very large black plastic piece shown doesn't have to come out (I do mention this later). You can remove just the actuator which takes more finesse, but I know it can be done because I just did it. However, if you just can't make it work, remove the larger part as well.
Lastly, the component that is held in by the 7mm bolts at 3:30 (I think it's XM) can be removed if you disconnect it fully, but I left it in today when I did this (I did take the bolts out, I just didn't remove it from the truck so it was loose and able to move). I also noticed that if you move this box out of the way, you can use the space to remove and replace the actuator which was helpful. It is able to slide in just enough to fit into place with a few tries.
I also left the black box in as recommended by someone in the comments (Thank you!) and I removed the driver seat as someone else suggested and that was very helpful for the small amount of time required to remove it (Thank you!).
I killed my battery by leaving the door open for this job so maybe disconnect the battery as well before getting started.
The truck in this video is a 2007 Nissan Titan, but the same basic procedure would apply to these vehicles:
INFINITI QX56 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
NISSAN ARMADA 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
NISSAN QUEST 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
NISSAN TITAN 2004 2006 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Let me know how it goes - I'd love to hear your success (or failures!) and I'm happy to answer questions.
Feel free to comment below. I read them all and reply to what I can.
UPDATE:
My actuator failed again 6 months later. I’d suggest you find a different supplier than the one I used (don't use amzn.to/38cy2u0)
You'll need this odd socket size too: amzn.to/2LBNQif
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, I don't make any guarantees against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Tall Family Films assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Tall Family Films recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Tall Family Films.

[@food4stars]

I love the video because the video stopped me from making any mistakes and know what not to do, and inspire me help me find a better way to take Actuator off because my dad's a engineering mechanic and taught me everything I know and he said the rest is all common sense born with the talent from him

[@TallFamilyFilms]

It’s very rare that you can make something worse by trying to fix it. Professional repairmen have never cared or charged me extra because I tried first.

[@smittytheone]

(Suggestion to make install easier) First, thanks for the video, it was EXTREMELY valuable. I want to help anyone who watches this video with a couple of (what I think will be) very helpful hints. 1) Remove your driver's side seat. It's four 14mm bolts and two wiring harnesses. Removing the seat will take you 10 minutes, and allows you to lay on your back while you do this install. You are welcome friends. 2) Make sure the notch in the cross at the top left of your blend door actuator matches the notch you have in your new actuator (see video at 5:28). I have no idea what Nissan was thinking, but the notch in my existing actuator was vertical and the part they gave me had a horizontal notch (fun, I got to do this job twice). I actually took the housing of the two blend door actuators apart and put the new gears and motor into my old actuator body. It wasn't difficult and worked fine. 3) This is easily a 2 to 3 hour job...it is NOT technically challenging at all, if you have any mechanical inclination at all you won't screw it up, but it is absolutely a pain in the rear-end to work in such a small confined space and fit all these tiny parts in a dark area. Take lots of breaks to keep yourself sane. If you haven't removed the driver's side seat yet, now is the time. 4) If you do not have a built in amplifier (Rockford Fosgate Stereo) as shown in video at 2:22 this is going to be a much easier install for you. The amplifier is in a bad spot and hard to move out of the way. Makes it more of a pain in the butt, but not impossible. Not having an amplifier gives you a LOT more room. 5) Don't be afraid of taking the blend door assembly cover and white blend mechanism off to help facilitate removal of the blend door actuator (video 4:20 to 5:30). I was afraid I was going to mess something up if I did and it cost me a 30 more minutes of time messing with the thing and getting aggravated. To reassemble the white mechanism, orient it with the long side down. There are two plastic pins; one opens the upper door and fits in the upper track, the other works the lower door and fits in the lower track; and the center that the white blend mechanism fits over and rotates around. You may have to manipulate the two pins into place. Once you make all three connections rotate the white mechanism so the teeth in the actuator will align with the white blend mechanism before you put the cover back on. 6) This is a really great video and an extremely good representation of what you are likely to encounter. It's not overly complicated, but it will test your patience as you trial and error fitting everything in and holding it in while you bolt it back up. Don't underestimate your need to take breaks and walk away.

[@nofoave]

Thank you Sir! Very useful info! just wish I read thru the comments 3 months ago... I attempted other try yesterday and it was a complete disaster! Very frustrating and extremely painful.( see my reply from a few days ago probably the newest,,) After a driveway temper tantrum, of which I have many, I was ready to give up! However I always thought about removing the seat , but assumed it may be too difficult considering my situation.. It was Not! The 14mils were easy to break free, even for me.. wrangled the seat out and now there's still hope.. !! The white plate with the tracked pins alignment is key! no way to tell where the gear is to rest so the actuator can key in...! And the damn thing wont stay in place! i tried tape and shoving things behind the brackets, which helped, but the slightest bump and everything falls out on your face... ThX!

[@BostonKnick]

Just purchased this 2005 Armada for the wife and it had this issue....good suggestion on taking out the front driver seat...will be doing that as I'd like the vacuum everything all up there anyways thanks

[@p.chuckmoralesesquire3965]

awesome tips, thanks!!!

[@ThomasBall-gg1mn]

Just completed this job on a 06 armada i would like to thank you for the great video this job was tough i would just like to say in my instance i found it easier to remove the shroud and blend plate i had to cut a little off the shroud because i was unable to get the OEM actuator also i was able to mark the exact teeth i needed to line up with a felt pen and adjust the plate so i didn't have to spin the actuator . works great Thanks again

[@BostonKnick]

I appreciate everybody that made a video for this issue, but yours is by far the best explained and it's the easiest to understand....I will be tackling this soon, thank you

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Make sure you read the description- I corrected a few things in the video

[@haydencolby3953]

Just completed this job and wanted first to say thanks for the video. A few observations: 1) not a pleasant job, give yourself time, 2) removing front seat is very helpful and easy, 3) my actuator bolts also had star bit , a star head Allen set or star bit and small nut driver can be helpful, 4) my Armada’s amp was ridiculously challenging to get out of the way! , and 5) I found it helpful to remove lower dash and metal support under steering wheel. Good luck and thanks again for the video!

[@northtrader]

Thanks for posting this video. I just did this 'repair' on my 2007 Titan this past weekend. The job went way smoother than I anticipated. The main issue was the metal bracket that was in the way of directly pulling out the broken actuator. I actually ended up removing the black plastic 'plate' (the one you mention not to remove) that the actuator is mounted to and, of course, the white damper actuator slide plate fell out to the floor. Luckily, after a bit of thought, it was not too hard to figure out the orientation of the white damper actuator. I was actually able to remount the white actuator plate and the black plastic plate and then roll the actuator into position behind the metal bracket (pretty much like you describe for the removal). I didn't even have to unplug the light control box at all. I just removed the two 10mm socket head bolts from the light control box and moved it to the side. The two 'bottom' screws on the actuator have a T20 torx drive so you don't need to use the 9/32 (7 mm) socket if you don't want to. The top screw (the 5.5mm socket) can be driven with a 7/32 socket as well. I couldn't believe I got this done in about 2 hours. By the way, this actuator is the AIR MODE ACTUATOR. The "blend door" actuator is the one that is on the passenger side of the dash that blends the cold and hot air together.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I’m glad I haven’t attempted my (3rd) replacement yet because you’ve got some great tips here. Did you remove the driver seat? So one mentioned that it gives a lot more room to lay down.

[@northtrader]

@@TallFamilyFilms I did not remove the drivers seat - even though I'm 6"-1" and 185lbs - I found that laying on my back (butt at the door threshold and feet outside the vehicle) seemed to work fine. The longest I lay there, without getting up, was probably 10-15 minutes while I was trying to figure out how to get the actuator out from behind the metal bracket without removing the whole black plate. I took plenty of stretch breaks. After a while, I just resigned myself to the fact that I would have to take the black plate off and risk having the white actuator 'fall out' - which is what happened. Luckily, the white actuator plate is keyed to the motorized actuator shaft and the pivot shaft hole and things 'aligned' in easily. I was worried I got it installed wrong because it lined up so easy. I was prepared for a 4 hour horror show but was amazed it was about 2 hours - start to finish. I did bang my head on the brake pedal a few times though.

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

Very very good tips Sir. Thanks.

[@northtrader]

@@michaeldextermonroe8548 Hope that they help out. Glad to offer some insight.

[@davidfarias2739]

By far, one of the most helpful 'how to' videos. Thank you for your time and effort.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

1. I made some mistakes in the video, so Make sure you read the description and a lot of the comments are very helpful. 2. Buy OEM parts.

[@TheGrayman1234]

I am trying to find out which actuator needs to be removed right now and am just looking at videos to help. Thank you for such an informative and detailed video. Had to give it a thumbs up.

[@Playstation_Sony]

It's probably the hardest one that probably takes a hour to get to

[@TheGrayman1234]

@@Playstation_Sony haha it was.

[@Playstation_Sony]

@@TheGrayman1234 so I just identified its the one I got to get to as well..... But what is the name for this part? When I got to autosone they are like witch one do you need lol

[@TheGrayman1234]

@@Playstation_Sony See if they can find 27743ZP00A Blend Door Actuator. Both of these actuators are the same.

[@HealthvsWealth4me]

Thank you for this video. I currently have the issue and watched several videos on it.... but YOU were the only person to show the white part orientation, in motion as well as WHEN it is making the click. I found that extremely useful for when I undertake this job. It is my understanding that my 04 Titan has five of these actuators. So...I need to touch the few obvious, while in motion to find which one. Most likely the one you have replaced. Thank you!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Awesome. Glad to help and thanks for the feedback. It’s motivating. So, I have the same one failing again (fun) so don’t buy the ones on Amazon. I’ve tried the old one and the “improved” and they both failed. I have an actual OEM one now but I just need to find time. I’m actually going to disconnect it this time and see if I can live with whatever blend door isn’t working. One last thing - if yours turns out to be the small little box in the engine bay (you’ll know), just take all the parts out of that little box. I have a shorts video on it in my channel. Good luck!

[@HealthvsWealth4me]

@@TallFamilyFilms Well I replaced my actuator today WITHOUT REMOVING parts!!! Thanks to your video along with others that I have carefully viewed, I went out to my truck and was able to touch all three screws with some room. I do not have a radio amplifier and that may be the difference! I only unplugged the diagnostic connector, pushed around the wire harnesses and removed the lower panel...that's it. Surprisingly the screws were not tight at all. The removal went quick HOWEVER, this install was difficult. Lining up the gear notch took time and the most difficult part was trying to get the electrical plug back in... working blind. That part took up 1/2 hr and scratched up my right arm. If I had to do it again or teach others, I would probably remove (bend/break off) that right steel bar/post (some other guy did it) as well as find the best knob position that helps line up the gear notch differently before starting the job. ( there's probably one spot where it lines up so that the actuator will go in easier). I set the control knob to the front/face position, and after removing the old unit, I observed the gear. Anyway...Thank you again. Anthony

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@HealthvsWealth4me nice job. I’ve heard of other that had an easier time when they had no amp. I get to do this a 3rd time soon so I’ll report back on how feasible it is to cut the bar. I’ll do it if I can. Did you remove the driver seat?

[@HealthvsWealth4me]

@@TallFamilyFilms No, I did not remove the driver seat. I moved it back all the way to the rear and I also auto-lowered the brake/gas pedal rack closes to the firewall. I used an old pillow on the floor area and laid on my back looking up with a led light.

[@Playstation_Sony]

I have a Nissan armada 2008 and it's in the same spot but easier to get to. What is this part called other than an actuator

[@lookyloo777]

i have that issue right now,every place i took it to wanted to remove the whole dash, this is such a helpful video , THANK YOU !!!!!!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

1. I made some mistakes in the video, so Make sure you read the description and a lot of the comments are very helpful. 2. Buy OEM parts.

[@waylander2]

Thank you, Mr. Tall, I have this very same problem with the 2008 Titan I just purchased. Your video is very easy to understand and follow. Great job!

[@haraldlorenzen4378]

This job is a royal pain in the ass, make no mistake about it, this job sucks. Expect lots of cussing and frustration, that being said I’m very thankful for your video

[@brassmule]

LOL yup. My neighbor called to make sure I was okay because this job really kicked my butt. It's not technically challenging but lord have mercy it's fiddling and frustrating.

[@tomridge7772]

Thank you, this video provided much moral support. This job is not hard, its just difficult. However, it can be done!!

[@tonybarnes9756]

Thanks for the video, that clicking was driving me nuts

[@PJ-ee5mc]

I have a 2004 Armada 4x4 LE which I bought new and I absolutely love this car. The ONLY issue I have ever had with it is this clicking sound. Mine clicks from the actuator above the glove box and is nearly impossible to reach unless you have VERY skinny hands. It seems that this actuator has something to do with maintaining the temperature you have set for heat or AC. When the unit tries to make small adjustments in one direction or the other in order to satisfy the call it clicks. It will usually find the right spot eventually, after much clicking, but then it will have to do it all over again as the temperature inside or outside changes so it needs to adjust and of course it starts clicking again. I have had multiple back surgeries and despite being a good mechanic I'm also pushing 70 so getting in there to fix it is not going to happen. This is how I have lived with it for the past 6 years: In summer I set the AC on and adjust the temp for 60 degrees, the coldest temp. In winter I set the heat on and adjust to the highest temp of 90 degrees. This will assure that the actuator will not try to adjust again once it has reach its limit, in either direction. I then use the fan to control how hot or cold it feels in the car and you can which the heat or ac off altogether if need and it will remember your temp setting when you turn it back on the next time. This is a good 'bandaid' for a while IF your actuator is still working well enough to eventually reach the max cold or max heat limit as explained above. The payoff is that once it gets there it will never click again until the next season, and only (possibly) while it is attempting to switch from maximum cold to hot or hot to cold. That said, I do feel like a total slacker for even suggesting this while younger guys are damn near killing themselves to fix this! Like the Stones said, "What a drag it is getting old."

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I feel your pain. Hopefully you didn’t jinx all of us with that specific actuator :)

[@edwincastillo-cutler6542]

Man ur a life saver!!! Mine just started making that. 2010 armada and this I my first issue with this SUV. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@build.drive.fish.]

Super detailed. Thanks for taking the time for instructions.

[@TheMisterMustache]

By the way this was so well done & informative I subscribed with no previous knowledge of your content. Great work!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

With a difficult as that actuator is to get to, you were a brave man to continue on when it wasn’t fitting exactly right :-)

[@AnthonyRockecharlie]

Many thanks! Just had to fix this exact problem on my 2005 Nissan Pathfinder!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I just had to fix mine for the 3rd time because I bought cheap parts! It gets easier each time ;)

[@z28ls7805]

Wow thank so much. I’m tired of hearing that clicking noise.

[@peterfoote5607]

You do not need to remove anything to replace the upper actuator. Just some nimble fingers and patience. Make sure the actuator guide lever on the white plate is in place when you put in the new one. You can also put the guide lever in place after you get the actuator in place. Before bolting the new one on, hold the actuator almost in place and rotate the actuator until the key slides in, then bolt the actuator on. It takes some nimble fingers in it helps to hold the white plate in place in trying to get actuator in place. good luck....

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Totally Agree Peter! I was lucky enough to need this repair again today and I did not remove the parts I mention in the video. I also updated the description to mention this.

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

First and foremost, thank you for this video. One of the best I have seen on this subject. I understand that you may not be a Nissan Titan expert, but I have a question for you. 1. Do you know if the easy to get to actuator is the same as the one you replaced? Also, do you have anymore videos of you working on your Titan? Again, thank you for your time and efforts on this video.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Hello - there are like 5 actuators inside the dash. Some are the same and some have different cogs/gears so they are not all interchangeable. I don’t know the specific answer to the one you’re asking about because I’ve never taken it out. The inside motor IS the same which is usually what fails so if you’re willing to take apart the broken one and swap the motor, it will work (not hard, I’ve done it). I have quite a few titan videos - tallfamilyfilms.com Happy to answer any off topic questions I might not have a video on

[@TheMisterMustache]

I bought a Dorman 604-970 off of Amazon. Time will tell as to reliability, but I did have to take the black plastic backing plate off and Dremel a bit off the bottom as the new part was 1/8” too long on the bottom for about 1/4”. After that it slide all the way in on the bottom and the screws fully seated. It’s stupid on their part, but easy fix.

[@brassmule]

Just did the replacement on a 2008 Titan with the Dorman part and discovered the same thing. It didn't wanna seat correctly. Just scuffed a bit off that one edge and that allowed it to seat fully. Glad I'm not crazy and this is a problem someone else discovered and solved, too. Thanks for your comment.

[@Gzusgeek]

Great video! One of the best for sure!

[@TheMisterMustache]

I bought a Dorman 604-970 off of Amazon. I did have to take the black plastic backing plate off and Dremel a bit off the bottom as the new part was 1/8” too long on the bottom for about 1/4”. Easy fix to get it to fully seat.

[@BRobinson28]

That’s crazy I just heard this noise and it popped up on my feed that’s creepy and helpful

[@TallFamilyFilms]

😂

[@3516C]

Expertly done!

[@byronbynum1918]

I have a 2010 QX56 and lived with clicking for over a year, now no heat at all, just blows cold air either at feet or from dash vents. Also no clicking. How can I determine which actuator?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Probably this actuator. I don’t envy your situation. This looks harder. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWaUfqije82sjtU

[@ramontrevizo5416]

Tanks. Was so helpful. God bless you

[@eddieo7660]

I'm not above drilling a hole in the dash and running some kind of rod mechanism to manually run the blend door after pulling the fuse for it or clipping its power supply if necessary, this fix is just a pain to be done more than once.... ask me how I know.😒

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Tell me about it… I’ve done this fix 3 times now because I bought crappy Amazon parts. Only buy OEM. The fix you’re proposing is probably harder than fixing it properly though. I do know what you’re suggesting - I drilled a hole in my son’s dodge Ram dash for an actuator problem and drilled right through the heater core :( That was a long day.

[@joseceja1320]

Lots of great info here amigo thanks a million!!!!!

[@03teufelhunden03]

New subscriber and thumbs up! Very informative and great camera work. Mine just started clicking going to need to find out which one it is for a 2008 Titan. It clicks when I turn truck off.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Check the engine bay - passenger side against firewall. There’s a black hose with a box that sometimes clicks. If so, open the box and take everything out of it.

[@03teufelhunden03]

@@TallFamilyFilms OK will do! I noticed it starting clicking when I switched air to go from the front vents to the dashboard/front windshield vents. I tried to go back to front vents and noticed air was blowing just not as strong. The clicking always happens soon as I turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.

[@TheMisterMustache]

I have a 2006 Armada SE 4x4. I didn’t have to disconnect the computer module, just unbolt and slide out of the way. I have no idea where my amp is, but it not there and was nice not to have to deal with that.

[@p.chuckmoralesesquire3965]

Fantastic video, thank you!!

[@ramonahigh]

Great video! I have a Nissan Titan 07 but the noise is coming from behind my glove box I don’t have any issue on where I want to direct the airflow to, my problem is getting the airflow to turn cold. I’m assuming the actuator that controls that is broken… any ideas on how I can resolve this? Or am I doomed with either paying $1500 at the deal or taking out my whole dash? Please help.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Make sure it’s not coming from the engine compartment. If so, it’s a little black box near the firewall. Just take it apart and remove the components inside.

[@zachwillis162]

I need to buy an actuator. Any suggestions which one I should buy?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I’ve replaced there’s too many times from buying cheap ones off Amazon. Go with a dealer or look on eBay for an OEM part. Make sure you know the exact part number for the one you need because they’re not all the same. The Nissan dealer can help with getting the part number. Then you can search eBay

[@mellemel5]

Great video. How do you determine which actuator is bad? Thanks in advance.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I just listened And pinpointed location, but you can also put your hand on it while it’s making the noise and you’ll feel it

[@drodefer424]

Would this also make the front blower stop working sometimes?

[@Robert-r3z5d]

Can I manually push the white part to switch my vent to the defrost/ window direction?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Not without laying upside down on the floorboard.

[@erichellstern542]

Excellent video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Read the description - I made some mistakes.

[@patricksheehy1762]

Hi. So right after i purchased my 2014 Titan in 2019 the heat did not work. I found out its a valve on the firewall. For a quick fix i just opened the value without replacing it. My a/c still works. Meed to get around to replacing it soon. Now i have no floor heat. Heat works great on chest or defrost. Just no floor heat. I dont have any clicking like this. Is the actuator to blend to my feet?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

The actuator in this video does control floor and face. I have found the clicking noise can vary. But if the actuator failed completely, it would be stuck where it was when it failed and not click.

[@jonathanhernandez5334]

Any tips on fixing this if the screw holes are stripped ?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@jonathanhernandez5334 yes! Follow this guy, but don’t worry about cutting the excess until you’re all done. If this is the back side screws that you can’t see, I’d glue the zip tie in and cut the excess bc you’ll never get it in there otherwise. Also, that part from Nissan might be cheap? kzbin.info/www/bejne/kH3Sk6qXZrKsatksi=Yr1ais0OT5Yp9wvC

[@williamb2854]

Nissan should have had a recall. This is very common. Should go back to the old ways, with a lever/cable that activated the doors. Keep it simple !!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

You’re clearly vintage like me to know there was once a cable! My brother had a 74 Dodge Dart (love to have that car back now) and due to an accident, the air box cracked open and I could visually see how the cables opened and closed doors. Pretty cool. As far as Nissan goes, this is really really common. I’m looking at older ones for my daughter and most of the ones I have seen click.

[@crownj01]

This approach doesn't work on a 2007 Armada. The amp bracket is in the way to much and there's no way to move it. Bummer 😢

[@TallFamilyFilms]

ThTs so strange. I have an 06 Titan and the Armada is SO similar. I’d love to see pics of how they are different because I’ve never actually looked at an Armada.

[@romejms5662]

I'm really tempted just to disable that actuator lol

[@TallFamilyFilms]

You could do that. What you won’t be able to do afterward is move the heat from floor to vent.

[@romejms5662]

I don't really use floor vent. Thanks for the vid 😀

[@ortegafamily3551]

You mentioned there are 3 actuators, where is the 3rd actuator located? I noticed my 2008 Nissan Titan makes a noise for 5 to 10 seconds after I turn it off. It sounds like its coming from dasboard area. It started after I had switched the heat position from front blowing to dash. Its not really a clicking sound. It also doesn't click when I switch to different fan positions or AC/Heat. It just makes the sound after I turn it off. I did notice the AC/Heat doesn't blow as hard as before after this noise started which leads me to believe it is an actuator but not sure since it doesn't "click" like all of the videos I've seen. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[@Scorp2017_water]

Does it sound like a creaking door? It sounds like it's behind the radio area - more towards the driver's side. My also creaks/moans after shutting the vehicle off.

[@secretsquirreladventures7778]

Ever had air come out of the defrost vents but would barely flow from the face or feet vents? When I change the mode to any setting it continues to come from the defrost vents and can’t figure it out

[@TallFamilyFilms]

That’s an actuator as well - but not the one I show here. If you call Nissan, they might be able to tell you which one controls that function

[@nofoave]

I've attempted this 4 times with no success. however I am disabled with neck and shoulder problems. That being said, I've built a platform to lay on which is level with the floorboard.. also acquired magnetic fingers and offset 7mm open end wrench and got the 5.5mm as well.. bought some small mag led lights to maximize the work space. ( other attempts were with a drop light which was WAY too bulky! ) plus the black round bracket needed to be modified to fit the new actuator.. everything is out including the white geared wheel.. QUESTION: Can the new actuator be assembled to the round bracket, and then installed as one piece into place? of course the geared white piece will have to be placed back on its track...

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I don’t believe you’ll be able to squeeze all that in there. Any chance you’re in Atlanta?

[@nofoave]

@@TallFamilyFilms No not in Atlanta.. I also failed to mention , there is no amp to deal with.. Plus I've placed the 7mm in their holes and put some shrink wrap around the screws so they won't fall out as easy when trying to put everything in.. The challenge is trying to thread those things one by one.. Always dropping them! Difficult to grab a different socket/wrench for a different size screw.. Don't know why they designed it that way.. Thx so much for the quick response!! I'll let you know how it goes! Cheers !

[@johnduong3203]

Thank you so much!

[@matthewtjepkema9431]

I have a 2010 qx56 and don't see a way to get at the 5.5mm bolt. Any suggestions?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

It’s really tough man. I can tell you that there are many people that have left tips in these comments. Someone suggest using a 7/32 (I think) socket. You can also try swivel socket extensions of wobble extensions. They’re available most places but harbor freight has them cheapest.

[@matthewtjepkema9431]

@@TallFamilyFilms Thanks! This video and the comments are great. I got it with a swivel and pushing up on the amplifier. I'm running into a similar issue with having the new actuator not fiting and therefore not fully seated. Is carving out the plastic plate inevitable or is there an actuator the will actually fit?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@matthewtjepkema9431 I wouldn’t Carmine plastic. There are several different actuators that Nissan cells and they do not have identical connectors. Do you have any idea what part number you have?

[@danielk0106]

Does that one move the air to the floor vents? I don't know which one I need.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

This one does control floor to face and defrost

[@danielk0106]

@@TallFamilyFilms Thanks

[@paulgentry5006]

I'm not getting high airflow in my 08 titan. Replaced resistor and fan motor. I hear clicking behind dash at console level. Could this be the one or is it hopefully the easier one.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Low air flow at these temps is awful. Hate that for you. Questions: As you turn it up, does the higher output just stop but the display keeps going? Does it sound like it’s blowing harder at higher fan speeds and you just don’t feel it? Fan motor (engine compartment) or blower motor (passenger feet)? When you say resistor, do you mean the relay in the fuse box (square looking thing with prongs on the bottom)?

[@dennisrodriguez6609]

I have a 2005 nissan armada, but instead of making a clicking noise and makes a buzzing noise but that still be the same problem it's under the steering wheel where the buzzing noise is coming from or when you have the car running it seems to be coming from that actuator but like I said instead of pushing at buzzes

[@TallFamilyFilms]

It’s likely the same thing. I’ve replaced mine 4 times due to faulty parts and the noise it makes was very different on some. If it happens when adjusting the air, it’s definitely an actuator. You can feel it too if you can reach the actuator when it does it.

[@dennisrodriguez6609]

Yes I can feel it when I touch it , thank you for answering my question

[@dennisrodriguez6609]

Do you happen to know what the part number is by chance?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@dennisrodriguez6609 it depends on which actuator it is

[@dennisrodriguez6609]

@@TallFamilyFilms the one by the steering wheel driver side like the one in the video

[@fabiogallardo9051]

Can someone please tell me the part number for the white spiral looking thing. Don’t really want to get into it but I have lost it and have no idea what it’s called or the part number thanks

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I’m sure there’s a story in there…It’s called an HVAC Heater Mode Door Lever. Part Number: 27163-7S010. It should cost around $20

[@fabiogallardo9051]

Just ordered thank you very much for the quick reply

[@pauldryer8984]

Does anyone know if this will make my air not cold. Last year my AC was fine. During the window i started hearing this clicking noise now i noticed my AC is not as cold

[@TallFamilyFilms]

It would possibly prevent you from feeling the fan pushing the air but the temperature is not affected by this if you can feel the air moving. I suppose if the hot/cold blend door actuator fails it could make the air warmer but I’ve not heard of that in these trucks.

[@HK-el4xv]

Thank you

[@robdswingingcrypto6228]

what year was this on? I have a 2012 and I can't get heat to the feet but no clicking.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

This was a 2007. But all these actuators fit 2004-2015 models of Titan/Armada. If it’s this actuator in the video, you’d have problems getting air to move between defrost and floor (regardless if it’s cold or hot). If you have air blowing it it’s not hot, that sounds more like the blend door. There are 3 types of actuators: Blend - air temp Mode - floor/defrost/vents, etc Recirculation - air is sourced either outside or inside of car. If you’re getting heat from vents but cold air at feet, that would be strange. Once you figure out which problem you have, You can call Nissan and give them the VIN number and they will give you the part number of the actuator in question. With that part number you can find them at rockauto/eBay. I would not buy on Amazon as I mentioned in the description.

[@adrianzamora6785]

Hello.my 2007 nissan armada is maling thay noise..and the heater is hot even on ac.is blowing hot all the time and when i try to put it on ac ot makes this noise and it keeps blowing hot.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

That’s called the AC blend door actuator. The same type of part is failing but it’s in a different place. Does it sound like it’s more on the passenger side?

[@adrianzamora6785]

@@TallFamilyFilms hello..it sounds more on the middle of the dash.and still.is blowing only hot air even with the ac on.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@adrianzamora6785 this is the video showing the part you need to replace. I did not make this video and I have never replaced that part. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWaUfqije82sjtU

[@adrianzamora6785]

@@TallFamilyFilms thank you buddy.😀😀😀🙋🏻‍♂️🙋🏻‍♂️

[@X6800]

Mine is worse. Hi-speed, rapid clicking every time you change the air flow direction.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

It’s the same thing. It’s just the motor failing in a different way

[@jeremylawson8621]

Mine had this clicking noise and then all the sudden it doesn't blow cold. Is this all the same actuator or am I having multiple issues?. I was blowing cold just fine before.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

This specific actuator doesn’t control temperature. Is yours not blowing cold at all or just when you’re idling? If hot only at idle, it’s something different. If it’s hot all the time, can you get an actual temperature of the air? I’d like to know if the heat is stuck on or if the ac just isn’t working.

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

I wish you were in Georgia. I would pay you $500 to help me with this. I'm trying my best, and it's crazy. How do you get the white plate to stay in place as you place the cover plate back over it?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Lol - I am in Georgia. Where are you?

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

@@TallFamilyFilms Augusta

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Also, don’t sweat the white plastic piece when putting the cover plate back in. Mine actually fell out and I hadn’t even removed the cover plate. The black plate doesn’t actually hold it up - the actuator does. So just put the black cover plate in and then arrange the white piece when putting the actuator in

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

@@TallFamilyFilms yes, the white plate fell out without removing the black cover plate, so I removed the black cover plate to put everything back together in order.

[@michaeldextermonroe8548]

I did finish the job yesterday, it stopped clicking for about three trips to the store, then started again. I'm going to try to check the one I replaced and the one below it to see if I can tell where the clicking is coming from.

[@danielk0106]

What does the lower control? I forgot to ask

[@TallFamilyFilms]

The lower motor that I mentioned? I’m not sure since that one never broke ;) Hot/cold blend?

[@danielk0106]

@@TallFamilyFilms I was told the passenger side was the hot/cold. IDK. I'll have to call a Nissan parts department with them aprt numbers and let them tell me. Thanks for the quick reply. FYI if I find out I will let you know. Thanks again

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@danielk0106 that would be great. All those motors have different part numbers so have your VIN handy when you call. You could also put your hand on that motor since it’s easy to access and then start changing things on the AC and see what it controls because you should be able to feel it unless the motor is completely dead

[@danielk0106]

@@TallFamilyFilms Called and they have no idea what each one does. He said all they have is 1,000 part numbers and the word Actuator after each number. No description of the functions 😂

[@ibuki56]

wish i could download this video to the car and the problem solved

[@Truthfulfisherman]

Does the easy access actuator click too?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Yes. It can. And there’s another one on the passenger side that can as well. And they are not all the same part number so you may need to call Nissan to find the exact part number you need.

[@iveyq3843]

What functions did this actuator control?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

Where the air flows from. Like floor, defrost, vents, etc

[@iveyq3843]

@@TallFamilyFilms Thanks, I have two problems, one is when the vent is on, some air blows out the defrost vents also causing the windshield to fog up (moisture on the outside of glass, have to run the wipers at night due to this). The other problem is no heat. 2010 Armada. I've got all 4 actuators ordered, 3 are the same, the 4th is different. I dont have any clicking sounds so I'm going to have to jump in and try and figure out which one(s) need replacing. Hey, thanks for the reply!

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@iveyq3843 I had the no heat issue as well. I just made a short to show you and others what I did. Some of these actuators are a bear to get to. So do some research before you start replacing ones that may not need it. I will say that vents not closing or opening all the way does sound like an actuator problem though. kzbin.infoX2QAcLxkhl4

[@jcmx0180]

I need help with mine. This thing drives me crazy.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I wish I could say it’s simple, but it’s certainly possible. Don’t freak out if the white piece falls out from behind it. Putting it all back together is easy like I showed. Putting it back in the car is like playing Tetris but you can do it.

[@jcmx0180]

@@TallFamilyFilms I’m going to try it but if I get stuck I’m going to reach out to you. It looks so tight once you take down the bracket is there more room ?

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@jcmx0180 a little. That metal box (I think it’s something to do with XM) blocks some access. Remember those actuator bolts are 5.5mm (or 7/32) and you will need a socket for them to make it easy. Happy to help any way I can.

[@TallFamilyFilms]

@@jcmx0180 and make sure you have located the right one that’s clicking before you get started (physically put your hand on it if possible)

[@jcmx0180]

@@TallFamilyFilms I have the Qx56. It’s the same location that you were working on. I double checked this morning. Thanks for your help. I will let you know how it turned out. I will probably do it on Sunday or next Monday

[@Playstation_Sony]

Fck my life, I just took off the easy one and it still freaking clicking.

[@ArmenianAssassini]

Those bolts are welded you can’t turn them thanks for wasting my time. And they are 13mm not 10mm

[@張中-q8r]

I have a 2005 Titan had same problem solution is not to set the cooling dial at the coolest setting Set at slightly above the coolest setting then all the issues will go away

[@TallFamilyFilms]

I just did this job again today - and you're right! I updated the description to mention that those two nuts don't actually need to be removed. Sorry for the hassle. I truly do want to help people and make things easier so I'm sorry this caused some unneeded frustration on an already very frustrating problem!

[@AircooledOkie]

Great video, thanks!