Nissan Leaf Module Busbar kit

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@MichaelMurillo 9 ай бұрын

Love your channel! Some hopefully useful knowledge: Most metals (aluminum might be an exception?) reflect IR. The temperature you are reading is the temperature of the room reflecting off of the surface. You need to put Katpon tape on the bus bars to see their actual temperature. Hope that helps!

@jehugarcia 9 ай бұрын

I’m not worried about the aluminum, more so the pcb

@HarmonyExpressSkoolie 9 ай бұрын

I use Nissan Leaf Gen 1 cells in a 24V configuration in the Harmony Express. I used homemade bussbars (copper) on mine, but I'd love to have a 6s version of the PCB to match my system. It's difficult to find a 6S BMS as well.

@sheliaivery8830 8 ай бұрын

I want to convert RAM 1500 what do I need to know ❤❤❤

@mikejf4377 8 ай бұрын

What do you think about using them in A VW Bus with a Net-gain motor?

@BLWN402 9 ай бұрын

Can these packs be split up and run in Series? I don’t need that many Ah, would rather double the voltage. You need some better solutions for large e-bikes and other electric vehicles that need 48v-72v and 150A continuous or so.

@jehugarcia 9 ай бұрын

yes this same setup can be made 8s

@seancarwin8034 9 ай бұрын

Good morning do you sell those Nissan Leaf battery readily assembled at 12 volts I would like to have a set of them just for a small 12 volt setup I am very interested in this solar battery charging so I would just like to know if you have them in 12 volt configuration just a question from a viewer of your Channel I am a subscriber for a while now

@ericklein5097 9 ай бұрын

These are NMC chemistry so not the most ideal voltage range for your standard 12V system. LiFePO4 is a 3.2V nominal cell so 4 cells in series is 12.8V which mimics exactly the voltage standard derived from lead acid. With an NMC chemistry you have 3S typically used from 9V to 12.6V or 4S is from 12V to 16.8V 4S is too high for the vast majority of inverters and 12V devices. Over 14.5V is typically where “12V” stuff is in danger of releasing the magic smoke….so that would mean in a 4S you only get to use the bottom 50% of its capacity. In 3S you will struggle to find an inverter that goes below 10.5V and coupled with voltage drop on the cable your inverter will be reading an even lower voltage than the battery. So somewhere around 50% of its capacity ( ~11V) your inverter will read 10.5V and start beeping meaning it’s about to shut off. Your 12V devices will definitely start to give you issues at 11V. Most won’t operate below 12V properly. There are some inverters like the Victron Phoenix but it’s a small inverter that’s not the cheapest. So due to LiFePO4 having a nominal voltage that lines up better with the traditional “12V” standard you’ll get to use all the capacity of the battery. The battery shown here is also composed of “power” cells meaning they are intended for situations in which they will give more than their amp hour capacity in amps. Ie 180Ah battery giving 400A. Your typical LiFePO4 battery is meant for 1C ie 180Ah should only do 180A max continuous otherwise there will be excessive voltage drop and the cells will get too hot. Your application sounds like it’s going to be geared towards less than 1C so finding a LiFePO4 that suits your budget would be the way to go. PowerQueen/LiTime/Redodo (all manufactured by the same manufacturer) have 12V 100Ah batteries for $230’ish. Those are the most basic models. Costs more for low temp protection (Board prevents charging below freezing because it can seriously damage the battery), heating pads in the case (you can diy this for $20 in 20 minutes), or other features which are mostly gimmicks except the first two. Keep in mind you cannot determine state of charge by reading voltage on LiFePO4 (you kind of can on NMC) so you need a battery monitor that is a coulomb counter. They range from $20 to $200…id suggest looking at the Junctek KH140 series. For $60 it’s got all the features you could want. Some of the cheap ones aren’t bidirectional so you’ll run into a problem if you’re charging while discharging. A small percentage of people charge up their batteries and put them on an inverter and just pull them off when they are empty…a cheap unidirectional coulomb meter would work for that but might as well bite the bullet and spend a little bit the first time with the Junctek or Victron.

@jethchannel 9 ай бұрын

A 8S PCB would be pretty slick!

@MrAaronBahner 9 ай бұрын

What BMS might you recommend for a leaf cell powered DIY car conversion

@jehugarcia 9 ай бұрын

something like this amzn.to/3Ue6MV6

@combatclifton 9 ай бұрын

I wanted to make a 72v but less amps with them for a bike build. But looking at the size of them they are pretty big

@RATLORD111 9 ай бұрын

ima need like 420 of those

@onkargill0956 9 ай бұрын

Any idea what would be needed to convert a 2013 Polaris Ranger EV from Lead Acid to LiFePo4 650 amp controller, 30 hp motor

@jehugarcia 9 ай бұрын

bunch of these modules a BMS and a charger should be all you need

@christophercrowe6648 9 ай бұрын

Got a fb page I have 4 in my 05 chevy tahoe powering ny Rockville comp 4 and 4 12" kicker L7s I need advice also where can I get soem busbars? I'll make a video on my KZbin page feel free to check it out

@jehugarcia 9 ай бұрын

There’s a link to busbars on this video