No longer SUCK at yellow - best paints & the ones to avoid (tier list)

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

This is the pinned comment, will update my tier list when new paint ranges with new yellows come out. In the meantime, check out my hand-painted colour swatches for Citadel, Warpaints Fanatic, Vallejo & more: www.patreon.com/stahlytaleofpainters/shop PS: To avoid any confusion, it‘s Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow, not Sun Yellow.

[@Weaver_Games]

I bought some of these swatches and they're very useful for me trying to match Citadel schemes to the new warpaint fanatic line!

[@BlommaBaumbart]

Can't wait for a review of Vallejo's updated model range. I used the Game Color swatch for getting my first collection of paints. Works as advertised, though nothing prepared me for how different the consistency is compared to the Citadel line.

[@regnarissad]

I recommend trying out the Golden So Flat paint range, specifically in this case, their Permanent Yellow. It has all the properties of a miniature paint, except it is very matte, and it has incredible coverage. I've gotten complete coverage over black in one thinned coat before

[@MichaRabiej]

@@regnarissadCadmiums are opaque yellows, all other are more or less transparent.

[@regnarissad]

@MichaRabiej Permanent Yellow has no cadmium. It uses pigments PY74 and PY53. This paint line does include some paints with toxic metals (like cadmium), but Permanent Yellow is not one of those paints

[@Luetin09]

Out here doing the Emperors work.

[@masterhedgemon5381]

Huh. So even this man has pivoted into the german speaking painting guides....

[@captaincosmo6157]

Hello you! Oh wait. Luetin, not Larry

[@lexington476]

Loyal servant to the true emperor....

[@nikolaosalexandroskaloumen1693]

If this becomes a series, it will be the best videos on miniature painting!

[@ashleyculver5343]

Agreed, I can't understand why nobody has thought of this format before.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Probably because it‘s quite time-consuming to make… will tackle more difficult colours if this video gets good views!

[@pistoneteo]

Totally agreed

[@MauroDiogoM]

YES! Would love more of these tier videos on other specific colours!

[@imdeaded]

Agreed!

[@FrownOnTheUpside]

Yellow doesn't "suck", it's just that most mini painters insist on applying it directly over black like savages! Even opaque artist yellows like bismuth and cadmiums work best over suitable backgrounds - underpainting is a very useful skill to learn, and certainly isn't restricted to yellow. I often use yellow oxide here (VMC yellow ochre and VGC heavy ochre look like solid choices, though I don't own either), introducing red oxide for more orange tones, but one could equally use something like pale sand or a pastel pink for more translucent yellows. If you buy paints solely based on their ability to cover black, you're missing out on some wonderfully rich colours and limiting your options. True transparents, for example, are the most flexible colours to have at your disposal - it's just a matter of learning how and when to use them.

[@jakelilevjen9766]

It is true that the undercoat matters a lot. I have heard that people really like pink undercoats to their yellows and oranges, but I have yet to try it much. I do appreciate this video’s format, however. It challenges the paint, even if it is silly to paint over black. The point for me is to see a comparison of the paint performance. Perhaps a better way would be to rate individual characteristics of the paint, like opacity, flow, separation, working time, how well they thin, etc. That way, each person could apply their own weighting factors based on their application. For instance, if you always undercoat, perhaps you don’t care about coverage as much, and want better flow properties.

[@cwj138]

Yah mixing single pigment artist acrylics over a yellow ochre would be the best bet. I like AK light brick as primer for yellow then using Vallejo heavy goldbrown then working up from there for a good range of depths. Saying chimera is bad because of coverage is like saying PVA is a bad glue because your minis fall apart, it's a tool and you are using it for the wrong application.

[@SilimSavertin]

@@jakelilevjen9766Pink primer with white zenithal combined with express/speedpaint/contrast paint, depending on what brand you like, makes yellow one of the easiest colors (and pre-highlights your models to the point of replacing edge highlighting if you're doing large forces). Simply priming pink and using normal yellows also makes those normal yellows far easier to use, if that's more your speed.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Thanks for your feedback, and I understand your point. I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.

[@TrepidDestiny]

I primer almost exclusively in white, but still struggle with yellow using a brush. I recently bought a light red primer and will try that. I just mask off and airbrush anything I need yellow these days. I get a better result that way.

[@dougsundseth6904]

There are only a handful (6-ish) of commonly used yellow pigments used in acrylic paint. All of these paints are using one or more of them. And all yellow pigments, bar one, have very low opacity. For opaque, saturated yellow, the only real choice is Cadmium Yellow, which (to my understanding) none of the hobby paint companies uses, for fear of toxicity issues. But if you don't eat your paint, Cad Yellow is unmatched. Try Golden SoFlat Cadmium Yellow Medium, which is dead flat and unbelievably saturated, with excellent opacity for yellow. Note that this is a bit thicker than a typical hobby paint. If you don't want to deal with the thickness, you can get the same pigment in the Golden Fluid Acrylic range, but that's high gloss, so you'll need to flatten it. I use Reaper's Anti-Shine Additive personally, but there are other choices. And of course if you use varnish, a matte varnish should solve any problems. Further note that much the same is true of reds. The only really good reds are Cadmium reds.

[@kaminowani6470]

Bismuth Vanadate Yellow is the next best thing to that. Sad that he didnt test good yellows but only miniature paint yellows.

[@guillaumeyeka]

Totally agree with you nothing beat cadmium. But, they are toxic, so no brush in the mouth...

[@Weaver_Games]

The fear of toxicity should not be downplayed. Airbrushes are extremely prevalent in our hobby and atomizing cadmium in an airbrush would be extremely bad to breathe. Paints containing toxic heavy metals like cadmium (as well as cobalt) are not something the majority of hobbyists would even consider. Professional painters are not only more aware of this, but basically don't use airbrushes and are likewise used to handling more toxic chemicals like thinners.

[@dougsundseth6904]

@@Weaver_Games Hobbyists have long been using organic thinners. Hobby enamels have been very standard for decades and the use of oil paints for glazes is standard in both plastic model building and common in figure painting. That said, there is definitely a danger to aerosolizing heavy metals, which is why the Vallejo cadmium colors (since removed from the market, I think) had "no airbrushing" warnings on the bottles. Of course, rattle cans are very common in hobby painting as well, and they're quite dangerous inhalation hazards as well. Further, eating or inhaling acrylic monomer solutions is not an ideal health choice, yet many (most?) figure painters do one or both regularly. (I include myself in that up until maybe 15 years ago; I decided to stop specifically because of the health issues.) Finally, while many paint companies claim to use "non toxic" ingredients, that only means that they're using ingredients that haven't been proven to cause toxicity problems _when used as intended_. My bottle of Vallejo Rojo, 70.926, says, in various places, "Non toxic", "Contains Cadmium", and "No Health Labeling Required". So relying on your favorite paint company to keep you safe isn't necessarily a golden path to health. Your health is your responsibility, because you're likely the only one who cares enough. ("Safety Third", to quote Mike Rowe.) Pay attention.

[@zamo9660]

Been painting for decades: still have some cadmium stuff arround in the workshop, and it's super easy to forget about it. Kudos to anyone pointing out that stuff bc not everyone knows or cares, yet not caring doesn't mean you shouldn't know (I'm looking at the 'he doesn't care about chemistry lessons comment). Knowledge is power, much like knowing why white behaviour is like it is (titanium) and its counterparts (zinc if I can recall it right) and what makes a good metallic (mica vs aluminium). I find it great when people expand the topic in the comments section. Even if I already knew it feels right to see people sharing it.

[@fpoggesi]

The promised yellow paint video has arrived! This is everything I wanted and more! May your brushes long keep their tips!

[@FrozenThrog]

I follow the wisdom of Vince Venturella. Yellow needs an undercoat that works with the paint, not against it. If you are smart, you can get shadows, midtone, and highlights in one go.

[@Falc0re]

I accepted Vince Venturella as my lord and savior.

[@MichaRabiej]

With exception of cadmium yellow that is.

[@fisherguy45]

I always appreciate your methodic way of looking at paints!

[@nucnuc7591]

The Kimera Colors are awesome...if used properly though (and not intuitive for army painters). Some pigments are strong, some rather offer low coverage. As some of Kimeras own videos suggest: Mix the first layer with a little bit white to increase coverage, then go back to pure color. On the other side: Kimera´s colors aren´t really meant to be used directly, but due to the mono pigment nature offer the best results while mixing (no falsifying of color due to already mixed colors). It really depends on what you want to use the colors for: Army painting? DON´T TOUCH KIMERA (imo)! Single miniatures? Go for it (they also work awesome with other colors to tint them in the proper direction).

[@MateuszAdamczyk]

I am painting my 10mm with Kimeras and I am really enjoying the process.

[@cptkrank6802]

Thanks for putting in the work on this. Putting down 4-5 layers of yellow is a disturbing amount of work. People at home, you don't have to do this to get good coverage. Just lay down a mustard yellow to get your opacity, then 1-2 coats of your brighter yellow should do fine. And if you must do a yellow-heavy army like Imperial Fists, owning an airbrush is pretty much a lifesaver. It's an entirely different experience working with yellow (or green, orange) and you won't hate yourself for working with those colors anymore.

[@MichaRabiej]

kimera warm yellow usess PY83 pigment, it is Diarylide Yellow. This is by definition transparent yellow, like a "contrast paint". I see no point to take a transparent panit and complain it is transparent. Just use them as you use transparent paint: for glazing, or add some white as you are supposed to.

[@timwalker7871]

I don't think the marketing of kimera makes it clear and mixing leads to issues with consistency across armies. I think the point is if you need to "research" a paint it probably is going to be misused frequently.

[@MichaRabiej]

@@timwalker7871 They explicitly say that warm yellow is transparent.

[@MichaRabiej]

@@timwalker7871the citation: "Some colors are more transparent than others. For example magenta, orange, cold and warm yellows and the phtalos are more transparent but very powerful and saturated. If you want to increase coverage you can add some white or some black in the mix without fearing that you’ll get desaturated colors." this is from manufacturer's website, and is copied to most of the places that sell them.

[@timwalker7871]

@MichaRabiej "more transparent than others" looking at this test you are basically having to mix a bespoke paint with each use. More transparent than others should read, "more like an ink in a gel medium". I think as a hobby paint his score is entirely justified.

[@MichaRabiej]

@@timwalker7871Exactly yes, "ink in gel medium" - this is exactly what transparent paint means. Truely transparent paint over dark will never be yellow, it will be still black. Like contrast paint. His score is based on not reading the manual. Product is as advertised.

[@imdeaded]

Missed Golden paints and liquidex paints. The latter is acrylic guache. The golden paints also have various consistency ranges. Would love to see these added.

[@Psilocybear]

Excellent review! I would absolutely love one on Orange paints

[@cuthulux]

I always like your reviews. You are easily one of my favorite mini-painting youtubers. That being said, I wish you'd include the regular War Colours paint line in your videos. I'd like to see how you feel their Yellow 3 and Yellow 2 stacks up against the other medium yellow paints.

[@pistoneteo]

That should become a series!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@FreelancerND]

Availability of brands are quite rediculous now. I personally find it very tedious to pick "best paints" and hunting for a shitton of different brands, so I've picked Vallejo (game and Xpress) and rather adjust my painting technique a little than having dozens of clors from different brands.

[@Bloodfencer1990]

One thing to note about paint consistency: thin versus thick paints is certainly a point of subjective preference, which is why I happily accept you putting the Warpaints Fanatic in the A tier rather than S. However, depending on the environment you are in thinner paints don't work too rgeat on wet palettes. For example, Pro Acryl tends to become very watery even when I don't thin it with water myself. Again, this is influenced by the environment and I think my reservoir just evaporates pretty quickly, thus adding more moisture to my paints. Thicker paints require more thinning, but will remain stable on your wet palette for longer, plus they are better suited for techniques like drybrushing.

[@adamduncombe594]

Stahly doing the hard miles so we don't have do yet again! what a great, thorough assessment and helpful to understand how properties of paints works etc. Thanks mate.

[@rav-7072]

COntrasts really do the job better than most acrylics with yellow. Imperial fists over white undercoat. 1 coat. Done. Mayybe some edge highlights.

[@BennyBartez]

Hi. As someone new to painting I REALLY appreciate your video. One thing that would be beneficial is at the end a bit more of a zoom in on the higher tier paints and their names please 😊

[@bulldozer360]

Do metallic golds pleaseeee! Gold is such a frustrating colour to paint with and this would be super helpful!

[@Pine_Appole]

Pro Acryl has IMO the best metallics on the market. Mix bronze with rich gold and it’s an amazing color.

[@Bumbaclart247]

Retributor gold is our lord and saviour

[@PrzybyszzMatplanety]

@@Pine_AppolePro Acryl aren't the best on the market for sure. That spot is reserved for Vallejo Metal Color.

[@yhormthemidget]

​@@PrzybyszzMatplanety except gold. Vallejo metal color gold is probably the worst gold paint I have ever seen. You can mix it to be excellent though, but it is a hassle.

[@FoldingChairJonson]

Reaper paints have a great metallic range. You just can't find them.

[@FlakManiak]

I wish that you'd also included P3 Heartfire! Sure sure, it's a bit more-orangey than many of the yellows, but it wouldn't even have been the most-orangey yellow in the video, not by a few places!

[@Filonek]

Hataka (violet line) D005 Yellow... hands down the best yellow I've painted so far.

[@mirage809]

Not surprised that Duncan's range finishes as high as it does. The chemists that developed those colours seem to really know what they're doing and have it figured out. AK finishing highly also doesn't surprise me. I got a bottle of RLM 4 yellow from their aircraft series. It's very close to Citadel's Yriel, but behaves simply wonderful on a brush. Gel-like is the term I've been looking for to describe a lot of yellows. They can be very thick colours.

[@Slaneshhhh]

This is an amazing idea for a video format!!

[@irishmarine3]

dude thank god for this - I've tried so many yellows and most of have been terrible. You're the man Stahly

[@OldManb1981]

The bubble issue in the new Vallejo Game color range is so bad I am shocked that Vallejo has not pulled all thier product from the store shelves and go back to drawing board and release a “fixed re-formula”. Also shocked that Vallejo themselves has not addressed the bubble issue. It ruins paint jobs like crazy. Had such potential as the coverage is great and creamy paint but what’s the point in painting with them when bubbles will ruin your paint job especially when painting larger surfaces with a base coat.

[@NargSmart]

Thank you, this is great. Appreciate the review and clarity. Def will give two thin coats a try later.

[@brentlacey5]

Personally never had an issue with vallejo game color. Gonna go experiment to see if I can make bubbles cause now I'm curious

[@FreelancerND]

Same here, have a number of Game color paints and never had any bubbling. It may be related to a number of reasons, from a particular batch defect to an improper storage temperatures.

[@JomasterTheSecond]

Suggestion for next time if you decide to do an update: Acrysion Base Yellow by Mr. Hobby. It's a Japanese hobby paint that's water based and can be diluted with either water or their special thinner.

[@vurtias6933]

Currently waiting for my warpaints fanatic starter set, really looking forward to giving the new daemonic yellow a go after seeing this even more! It looks perfect for that bad moon ork tone of yellow.

[@khiburgess5848]

Khimera are actually as a range really good, the yellow imo should go over a brown or pink undercoat and for mixing paints I don't think there is a better range due to the single pigments.

[@khiburgess5848]

@@Elfhelm Chalked up sir

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.

[@khiburgess5848]

@@stahly_taleofpainters Thanks for the clarification however I would suggest in future you deselect the paint that is not designed to deliver on that objective in other words the right tool for the right job etc. Or atleast explain why such paints are not included.

[@Valandar2]

About Reaper... they have like 9 o 10 yellow paints that run the gamut from "might as well be transparent ink" to "Competative against almost anything." I use almost exclusively Reaper, myself. Sun Yellow is also one of the oldest yellows in the line, as the SKU shows.

[@johnrandecker8063]

These kinds of comparison videos are very helpful. I've been a long time Reaper paint fan. I still think they're pretty good overall, though I can't argue that newer yellows and oranges have much better coverage. Maybe it's time to move on from my 20 year old bottles of paint 🙂 Though I did just replace a few colors I was out of. I rescured the pewter skull agitators from the old bottles to put in the new ones since they don't put those in any more.

[@edevans5991]

The first Bones Kickstarter got me back into the hobby so I've been using Reaper paints too. I really like them except for their terrible label printer that often leads to faded, unreadable labels.

[@toferkrz946]

As usual, the most informative and comprehensive material available on youtube. This has been stellar. I hope you can do saturated medium reds next and I can't wait for the new Model Color review, since the old ones form the bulk of my paint collection.

[@Ash-sf4gr]

Cheers for the effort making a very helpful resource for a colour many struggle with. Though I find it odd that the only two paints in S tier missed the brief and are closer to yriel yellow.

[@bluedotdinosaur]

One thing I will say for flash gitz yellow is it truly is meant to be used as a glaze over colors like averland sunset and screaming skull. It produces a rich and warm yellow that way.

[@jdk492]

I'm only 2 minutes and 35 seconds in but most yellows look damn nice and quite vibrant over a light pink surfacer or base. I airbrush Gunpla, but I've been practicing my hand with brush painting on smaller details or pilot figures, but I've found that this still applies!

[@padraigmumper6956]

I use mostly Reaper paints, I picked up one of their mega sets at a great price and I love them, especially their consistency. But yeah their yellows are not great, I tend to use imperial fist contrast over white for a basecoat and highlight with reaper yellow after. Their metallics have some issues as well but work for dry brushing and sponging which are my preferred approach to metal (really any metallics work for this approach even craft paint)

[@lexington476]

9:18 I used Reaper for the first time a few weeks ago with two ochre colors, they are slightly thin but I like the two colors I got. I might user more, but they are not my main paint brand.

[@MichaRabiej]

if you want opaque yellow add some white, if you want pure pigment use either bismuth vanadate yellow or cadmium yellow. Just don't eat them, and wash hands after painting, before you fetch a sandwch.

[@wasmic5z]

And never put them through an airbrush.

[@MichaRabiej]

@@wasmic5zyes, that too.

[@antoinelucchini658]

Thanks for the review, I don't think S75 artist and Kimera can be qualified as "improper" miniature paints. They have great qualities if you want to play with color mixing and are used by a good numbers of amazing painters. They're not adapted to a more "recipe based" or army painting style that's true. Thanks also for signaling the bubbling issue with the new Vallejo game colors. I've bought a lot of bottles and it's a dealbreaker for me, especially when quickly basecoating or applying large quantities of paint. The texture the bubbles leave when dried is awful.

[@animortis0]

I'd like to see Golden SoFlat Permanent Yellow. I use it pretty regularly, and found it can go on anything in two coats. Then again, I'm not a pro painter. As for Reaper, I use Reaper for most everything. The yellows do separate a lot, and I've never been happy with those, but other colors produce extremely smooth results and have excellent color range and pigmentation. I would argue they're my favorite line, though Two Thin Coats is coming up fast behind them.

[@bourru6321]

Yes but on his Patreon's paint tips, Stahly recommend Reaper for some triade like flesh. He doesn't reject the brand either.

[@roccoraspanti5742]

Thank you for the interesting video, yellow is always a hot topic. I'd like to share my thought on Scale 75. While I respect your opinion and I understand your point of view, I disagree. I'm a long time Scale 75 colors user (standard, fantasy and artist range since they came out) and I remember how switching over from citadel was a pain in the ass. But once I finally understood how they work, I never looked back. I really love how they behave, their vibrancy and their transparency (which is one of their strenghts to me). They are a very powerful tool in the hands of a little more patient painter. Ultimately, this is a very subjective matter, so to each their own I suppose. Keep up the good work!

[@perkulant4629]

If you’re painting yellow over a dark primer, start with a pale grey…

[@Kconv1]

I paint mostly with TTCombat and Duncan Rhodes, with a little bit of Pro Acryl, on that note great job! I agree completely. I actually find TTCombat to have the best balance of vibrancy/saturation and covering power, with Duncan Rhodes a close second.

[@LazorzPewPew]

I did this same test with most of these brands and Reaper came out on top for me. Can you please please please do a review of Reaper Paints? They are a great paint line but get almost no love and there are no good reviews of them on YT. Would love to see your take on them.

[@aaronwindham6065]

Love these type of videos. Id love to see one for alot more colors. Im thinking pro acryl is consistently the highest but doesnt win alot. I love the vallejo ice yellow though. Favriote yellow.

[@tobiasschreiber451]

Love your videos. Very informative. Keep up the good work, your content is pure quality!

[@Metalovichinkov]

This is why it's important to learn about pigments. What you review is the coverage of the paint, not the paint. Except cadmiums, every yellow pigment is transparent, like milled stain glass. Cadmium is expensive and toxic so it's not used in hobby paints so the easy trick to get good coverage with yellow is to get a warmer yellow with lots of ochres and titanium white in it. This explains why your S tiers paint are so warm, they have a lot of ochres (opaque pigment) and white (opaque too)

[@rpiazza72]

This is really thorough the only line I could think of not here is Warcolors someone else mentioned, although those are really meant to be glazed and Coat D’arms.

[@finleyhobbs6031]

Your initial TTcombat range review was what got me to jump into their most recent paint kickstarter, so thanks for that! Very, very good stuff

[@blktom]

I wonder if you combine the TT Yellows to get that right shade, since they are each on both sides of Flash Gitz. That would be a interesting experiment, pretty much mixing your own (with the same brands of course) to create the formula you want. Maybe a idea for a follow up video?

[@finleyhobbs6031]

they actually have released some medium yellows thru a second kickstarter wave that i got my hands on! My favourite range, some of the colours like blue violet are incredible

[@laam999]

Once again, only paint reviews worth a damn. Please keep it up dude, loving this little series.

[@TheAndrian463]

Great review. Please do more of this type of review format. Now that you have a starting comparison, I look forward to the addition of other brands like Ammo Mig, Huge Miniatures, Mr Hobby, Mimetic etc too. Shame we can't see older hobby acrylic paints in this comparison like Ral Partha, Armory etc.

[@krzysztofmathews738]

I very much appreciate your explanation of the challenges of finding a balance between opacity and saturation in these paints. A very good presentation.

[@RazorFox]

Please do more videos like this, doing all the reds would be awesome.

[@buzzardb]

Reaper makes some of my all time favorite paints and still use them regularly.

[@cyagen9782]

I like your reviews and I like this one too, but as a Kimera, Scale 75 user, I got a feeling that you set them up to fail in this test. If you want more opacity from them, you need to mix them with a bit of white. These paint are ultra saturate with pigments (only one type sometime) and one thing that they do not do well is coverage. When I want a yellow that covers, I use a cheap Americana craft paint, I bet it would land A or S tier in your test. But these "artist" paints shine when you blend, glaze, tint or create texture. Their heavier consistency give you flexibility to do with them what you want. They are great paints, when you use them as intended, which is not the base coat/wash/highlight technique. For me they unlocked some techniques that no other paints had allowed be to do before. I feel like you are critizising a hammer because it stuggles to ram screws in wood. Also why didn't you pick cold yellow (Kimera) and primary yellow(S75)? These are much closer to Flash Gitz. It is OK for you not to like these paint, I just find that the way to you tested them gives a false impression of them, like if you would hve tried to cover the same plasticard with Contrast or Speedpaints. Continue your good work.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Thanks for your feedback, and I understand your point. I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.

[@isolation-protocol]

I think you should try brands like Artist's Loft, Liquitex, Amsterdam, and Golden.

[@hybridzero]

Good informative video. But I feel like the take on the Kimera color is wrong. I’ve used Kimera yellows, both the warm and the cold tones and if used properly I’ve painted some great display pieces. I’m no master but they’ve done well by me. Keep it up though!

[@SigurdBraathen]

Thank you for this video! I've read that oil paint is opposite to acrylic paint in that the lighter colours have the best coverage. We should check out if that's true :)

[@mrgunn2726]

Stahly, I appreciate this very comprehensive and valuable review. You are still the best reviewer of paints on the internet.

[@negativegradient]

You saved me. Ive been using Vallejo deep yellow for a while and I just could not understand why it was so bad.

[@craigcook5121]

Always great vids. Always heaps of great info

[@Viridye]

Finally we can(will) see what is best yellow.. getting good yellow is pain in the ass

[@izantas]

Can you do this for other colors as well? For example I don’t own many blues. So, I want to add new ones to my collection for various levels of saturation and value. When I search youtube I only get Vince’s how to paint blue, but I am looking for different blues. I would like to see your favourite blues from different ranges.

[@fancymichael6113]

Great comparission of the yellows! Can you make similar video with oranges?

[@SangriaSamurai]

The older Reaper formulation is frustrating. The newer formulation from the Bones paint range is much better. Sun yellow is also just a bad yellow from the range. Canary yellow or the newer MSP neon yellow are better paints.

[@FercPolo]

I have a couple dark green Reaper paints that are really really vibrant and add a lot of depth to other greens, I also have pretty much the whole purple range because they actually have a good range of purple paints.

[@joshelguapo5563]

My favorite yellow has been from the golden soflat series. The most pigment dense paint I've ever used.

[@Schugger1]

I have the misfortune of having three Vallejo Game Colour yellows. Two of them are unusable for miniature painting. It is the paint series without the agitators in it, so maybe the new generation is better (they can't be worse, really). Other Vallejo colours of this range work mostly just fine. In my opinion each paint range have some blinds in it - some more, some less I guess I give the Duncon Rhodes Yellow a shot. Thanks for all the work of testing and putting a video up - it's really much appreciated :)

[@DrNorbertGames]

You continue to set the standards for review mate. Great job and thank you. Red next?

[@Mr_Waffle.]

Amazing list, nice work. Unfortunately most aren't available where I live lol I paint my House Hawkshroud knights with Imperial Fists yellow contrast paint, no streaking over big flat panels makes it amazing for mechanical models (I don't have an airbrush due to my living situation). Just have to make sure the undercoat is one solid colour, any difference in the undercoat will show through the yellow.

[@jakelilevjen9766]

Yep, it’s me again. That one guy who uses Reaper paints. These were my first set of what I (at the time) considered serious paints, as I had had enough of the Citadel pots. I felt fancy having dropped bottles. They are inexpensive, and I enjoyed their triad system. They have been my mainstays for over 10 years, but are finally showing their age. Time to move on. Pro Acryl, perhaps?

[@jwitham30]

Reaper Master Series are really underrated. Their skin tone triads are the bomb. Dark Elf Shadow has become one of my go-to shading colours - a desaturated black magenta, essentially an acrylic Payne's Violet.

[@shoestar9972]

I think you did not get the point of Kimera colours. The better coverage of the other brands is done by adding white. Kimera keeps the single pigment which is by definition more transparent. So you would add a touch of white here. Instead of selling people mega paint boxes with hundreds of colours, kimera develops painters skills. Mixing, adding medium/flow improver etc. They make you a better painter over time and save u tons of money in the long run.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Apologies, I should have made it clearer that I don‘t think that artist paints are bad. This video is meant for people who struggle with yellow and want an „easy“ solution. Artist paints require experience and skills that most beginner and intermediate painters don‘t have (yet).

[@onarollgames]

Great video! However for P3 I would've gone with Cygnus Yellow as a closer comparison to Flash Gitz.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Duly noted!

[@BrunoGomesCamolas]

You forgot Cuttlefish colors from Creature Caster. Not a very popular range but still highly reviewed. Other than that great work!

[@joky472]

Thank you for your high quality reviews! Surprising results from GSW. Are their acryl paints generaly good? I saw they have also reworked the old formular

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Yeah, they're pretty good, a bit on the thinner side though.

[@RelaxStudio88]

Thanks for the video. For Kimera paints, you should go with the cold yellow, I believe that one has better coverage.

[@mgt4494]

Scalecolor Artist / Kimera not for miniature painting? 😅

[@FoldingChairJonson]

Very interesting video. Ive painted a couple yellow armies (Lamenters, Iyanden and Imperial fists). One of the OGs of the best yellows that works great for air brushing and paint was the Tamiya brand. Ive heard good things from AK and have seen them in action. My issues with Pro Acrylics is they can be sometimes thin or chalky. I love Reaper Paints and was one of the early testers of the brand. Never used yellow though.

[@daniellof453]

Can confirm Kimera cold yellow on its own sucks! But it is amazing for mixing blue, red and magenta

[@hmisay4976]

The bulk of my paint paint collection is Reaper brand paint. When I first started getting into the hobby I bought tons of their minis because they were approachable and my local game store shut down due to Covid. I have a wide range of paints now, but the bulk of it is still my old Reaper stuff.

[@WilliamChoochootrain]

More of these please! 😊 Btw, mic sounds a bit weird in this video.

[@stahly_taleofpainters]

Yeah I messed up the audio, next video will be better

[@5p3cu10]

Yellow is such a hard colour to get right straight from the pot. I like Scales artist range and kimera but i find they are best used to mix into other paints. They have such strong colours they add a lot to a mix.

[@pat0652]

Really surprised by the Vallejo Model performance. came close to buying it today.

[@justsomeguyinnc473]

I settled on AK Gen 3 colors (or whatever) for brush painting, and Createx for air colors. Pick a stable, available brand that works for you, and ignore the hype. Buy yourself a color matching wheel and it will teach you basic color theory.

[@Gladedancer]

Great comparison video! I would only shift Army Painter Warpaints Fanatic Daemonic Yellow up to S tier, but completely agree with all other rankings. Also I had not heard that Vallejo was reformulating so that was some exciting news :)

[@nicholassinnett2958]

Good review. Definitely looks like the old trick of using a more opaque/less vibrant yellow as a foundation still has a place today, unless you've got those AK 3rd Gens. I'd probably rate those highest when it comes to coverage and closeness to Flash Gitz. Bit of a pain that some of the top-tier ones are hard to get a hold of though, Two Thin Coats is only just starting to become available here in Australia. I didn't expect Model Color to perform that poorly, most of that line's usually got really solid coverage. But yellows, whites, and metallics are usually the weakest parts of any range, and the current Model Color range has existed since the '90s, so I didn't expect it to be amazing. At least the new version of the range looks to be in good hands.

[@timbe7979]

Great video, i revently bought the one tier patreon pdf for onecoat paints and it is perfect to see which paints to buy

[@Ssaaka]

I still use a few reaper paints, I like their ghost white, linen white, leather white, aged bone, and vampire skin fairly well. Coverage can be an issue with a few of them but I like the colors so I put up with it.

[@JackDespero]

Thank you for sharing!

[@YaBoiVD]

Tamiya is designed for airbrushing, which is why it comes with its own alcohol thinner

[@anotherzingbo]

I'd be interested to see how Warcolours' One-Coat Yellow compares to the paints in this test. For me it generally hasn't been a one-coat paint but it does seem to cover well by the standards of the limited number of yellows I've tried and it's definitely brighter than something like Averland Sunset. Spotlight Yellow is one of the few TTCombat paints I've got. I've barely used it but it didn't really stand out when I did - I'll have to give it another shot at some point! And I do have one Reaper Master Series paint that I used. Their Blackened Brown is basically like Rhinox Hide in a dropper bottle and that means I use it a lot.

[@Gnomelotte]

One brand I'm missing (especially considering you are in Germany) is Revell Aqua.

[@Rordan]

Vallejo having issues with bubbling and and unsmooth yellow, but same rating as Army Painter... fair enough

[@jamesgreaney7615]

IIRC Vallejo suggested years ago that people experiencing bubbles in the old Game Colour (and Model Colour) range should *roll* the bottle between their hands rather than shake them. I do the same for those ranges and finds it helps (I've always found bubbles to be a minor problem with dropper bottles, including AK) but haven't used the new Game Colour enough to know if it has the same effect.

[@jaimiting]

You've did an amazing tier list! 🎉 I'm looking forward to see other colors tier list.