(old video) Ramps 1.6 review: the good the bad and the ugly

GOOD NEWS! Bigtreetech has com into open-source compliance for this board. The design files are here: github.com/big....
Pardon the clipping mic, apparently that channel on my mixer is going bad.. grrr. While it did not go as well as I had hoped, here is a review of the Bigtreetech / Biqu Ramps 1.6 3d printer board. I have recieved a replacement in the meantime however, and had much better luck with the construction.
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[@biqu7927]

Thanks for the Review. very good video , we will consider your opinions and update.

[@claws61821]

I just checked your website myself and feel the need to state that a good first step would be to abide by the community's standing practice of providing freely available schematic documentation, as required per the hardware license agreement for the original RAMPS boards. As Alex pointed out, this community is built upon open-sourced hardware, such as the original RAMPS boards, and removing that accessability does little more than alienate your potential customer-base.

[@AlexKenis]

The community thanks you for uploading the proper source files! github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6

[@biqu7927]

Alex Kenis We have already updated the Ramps 1.6 to Ramps 1.6 plus , welcome to review.

[@AlexKenis]

BIQU 3D Printer A review will be coming soon

[@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega]

@@AlexKenis with tmc2130 drivers please? and if u can, with the re-arm... im just about to buy that combo :)

[@lonnieh7777]

I agree with what you said. Tried to use a new 1.6 today, no documentation. The Arduino would not communicate so there is that. I plugged the ramps 1.6 into my old Arduino board but could not get any servo to move. Using the DRV8825 module there is no voltage on the potentiometers. Not sure what the problem is all the jumpers are in place but I have 3 extra jumpers and was searching for a clue if I need them. Next to terminal D8 there is a place for J4 but it is empty. No jumper pins. J4 would supply ground from the power to the positive post of the heat bed. D1 is installed and supplies power to the Arduino board. I know on the ramps 1.4 D1 is removed if you use 24V.

[@biocode0]

The SKR v1.1 has an identical looking "30" fuse. That schematic calls for 30A, so I guess we don't have to worry about ever replacing that fuse. In case of a short, the fuse will probably be the only thing you can count on not to blow.

[@marcosramirez385]

Your awesome man. I've been waiting for a review on this board.

[@colinsmitley4606]

This is the only thing I have found that someone is actually talking about what I bought! I’m new to this world and got this to replace my fried Anet v1.5 before I realized there’s really nothing out there that’s safe for a complete noob like me to get this working. From one metal head tinkerer to another any direction for programming/flashing firmware on this for an Anet A8? I don’t have much, but I would be willing to figure something out to compensate for your time. For the time being my new toy is an oversized paperweight. Just got it dialed in and was finally printing quality parts. Thank you so much for your time and efforts with these videos and products. Keep up the good work.

[@MrWaalkman]

Based on your level of experience, I would recommend the Duet3d WiFi or Ethernet. It's expensive, but basically bulletproof. One of the things that you won't get from the Chinese makers is support. That's not a problem with the Duet3d, it is extremely well supported. Don't bother with the display, that's another $45 to $100 dollars, and you can just as easily control it from your browser. But on the other hand, if you live close to a Makers Local, pay them a visit and see if there is someone there who can walk you through the conversion (using a cheaper board).

[@AlexKenis]

I would recommend looking into A8 reddit and facebook groups for a step-by-step guide. I don't think there is anything particularly tricky about swapping the mainboard and flashing new firmware on those machines (except that the stock 1.5 board is a little tricky to flash marlin to because i THINK you have to flash a new bootloader), but you should be able to dig up some step by step guides from people that have the machine (I can't really give a detailed guide because I don't own one). Hope that helps

[@terryreilley]

Colin Smitley Cancel

[@AERuffy]

Any chance for an update? Perhaps the 1.6+? Quality of the new boards is said to be better.

[@AlexKenis]

I have a 1.6+ here for review. I just got delayed by other videos. I'll probably re-film this video as well since I got a few functional 1.6 since I recorded it, and they are working out pretty well, and they are open-source now

[@glennedward2201]

Mine just arrived. I only had plans to explore with it intitially and maybe build a second printer out of spare parts and run it. Our main printer runs duet WiFi which of course is superior but for a $10 ramps board who’s to complain?

[@danielkrah5129]

One downside is definitely the lack of the dual power input. I want to use a MK42, so i have to use a mosfet to feed it separately. / or i run the stepperdrivers externaly with 24v. which i think is also good because then i can easier cool them. My delivered Ramps 1.6 have really good quality all connectors are straight and well soldered. Nothing bent.

[@danielkrah5129]

aliexpress

[@mingerone]

Hope you start making regular videos again :) Just discovered your back catalog as it were and I think your video and presentation style is great. Regardless: thanks for the info mate. Have a pleasant one matey :) [edit] Whoops, I see you are still making content!?! Must have got your channel mixed up. Regardless: I stand by my main assertion: great videos :)

[@AlexKenis]

Still making videos. Things get spotty around the holidays, if you know what I mean

[@CXensation]

Nice video, thanks for sharing. There is one thing you can benefit from MOSFets or PowerFets in general; and that is you can parallel connect 2 or more FETs to lower the RDSon. The resulting RDSon will of course follow Ohms law of paralleling resistors, thus reducing the Power dissapated in each FET. This is perfectly allright as long as the FET is used as a simple on/off switch.

[@AlexKenis]

You re probably right, and I should test that eventually. My brain didn't go there at first because I have built a handfull of power mosfet amplifiers, and unmatched resistance = blown out mosfet, so you typically add 0.1ohm source resistors to balance it out, but for switching, it could be okay.

[@CXensation]

@@AlexKenis Why would you get blown out mosfets when parallelling ? Mosfets are inherently temperature stable by their positive temp coefficient - exactly opposite the bipolar counterpart, which is negative and thus tends to suffer from thermal run-away. The reason why you add a source resistor to even out the spread in exact RDSon, is to distribute the currents in parallel fets a bit more evenly. If no source resistor, one of the fets will tend to carry more current, then heat up, and its RDSon will increase and the current decrease. Automatic equilibrum is reached then, but of course they wont have exactly the same housing temperaure. Its a known trick from the past when I was active in electronics and Hi_current Mosfets were not readily availabe. Rest assured you will not blow any Mosfets to death when trying :-)

[@AlexKenis]

Oh, absolutely. I have to learn to let go and embrace switching topologies... I just have a knee jerk reaction because I come from the world of audio design, and mosfets get much more finicky in the linear region, where you will never find a complimentary N/P design without separate source resistors for balance and gate resistors for snubbing.

[@CXensation]

@@AlexKenis Yes - linear application is a whole different kettle of fish. Thanks for your time discussing this subject, much appreciated. Looking forward to more videos from you ... :-)

[@Bartolobot]

Has anyone else noticed the labeling of the two diodes D1 and D2 has been swapped so D1 is now D2 and D2 is now D1 and I believe the correct location for D1 is closer to the center of the board not near the fuse F1( As shown in this video) that one used to be D2. If you remove the one near the fuse you are removing a reverse polarity safety feature. This will also not prevent the 24Vs to flow thought the arduino and most likely you will burn out the 5v voltage regulator. I have a few Ramps 1.4 and a Ramps1.5, I have carefully compared the boards and traces to confirm my claim. judging from what was said in this video Ramps 1.6 Is also labeled backwards. Can anyone confirm my findings as I am no expert and mybe mistaken.?

[@AlexKenis]

The D1 position freaked me out too: the labeling is correct, but their positions on the board are swapped. D1 is still the backfeed diode, but for some reason they put it near the fuses. I have one running at 24v currently with the D1 removed and D2 in place, and it is fine. When in doubt, put a meter probe on the anode of the diode and the other probe to ground, it should read close to zero ohms if that is the polarity protection diode. If you want to make extra-sure, put a probe on the diode's cathode and the other probe to the backfeed pin, it should read close to zero if that is the backfeed diode.

[@Bartolobot]

Damn it ! your right I blew out a $35 mega copy from Velleman. I removed the wrong diode on my new Ramps 1.5 thinking they got the labels wrong and probably ruined both boards in the process on the Velleman Mega2560 the AMS1117 5.0v regulator chip near the usb port POPPED! and the RAMPS 1.5 with its SMD mount components plus the location of the Polarity protection diode, that I mistakenly removed, well makes it pretty hard to solder back on if I can even find it. In hindsight I can see why they decided to move the back-feed D1 to a more accessible location by the fuses that answers 1 question . But who is "they" anyway and why the lack of info? If it wasn't for you and I we wouldn't know anything about the new 1.5 & 1.6 They cant just go changing thins like that without documentation information what happen to open source ?

[@AlexKenis]

Thats a bummer. I actually did the exact same thing with D2 when I first tried a RAMPS 1.5, but luckily the mega survived somehow (that was the 1.5 I used in the torque testing video), so it is just running without both diodes. I have had okay luck with the cheapo Elegoo MEGA clones on amazon, that might save you a few bucks, and they have the pin numbers silkscreend on the side of the headers, which makes life easier. The "they" you are referring to are Makerbase (aka MKS) and I agree that they should release more detailed docs to prevent accidents and confusion: many of the RAMPS derivatives are lazy about that, and they just point to the 1.4 docs.

[@Bartolobot]

I payed $35 for it because I had it delivered same day. I got tiered of waiting for shit that don't work I own 3 other mega clones imported that just stopped uploading new sketches! Something to do with drivers for communication trough the usb port not available or corrupt.

[@ritsched]

So to run the Ramps 1.6 at 24v, all I need to do is remove d1 and Power the mega with USB?

[@eld0ntyr3ll]

first, thx for your reviews yeah their git schematics and bom shows 30A/16V + 5A/30V. Fuses apparently from the pictures of the 1.6plus they changed to 20A (hopefully 30V as well). i am looking at buying a.re-arm+1.6plus shield to test some 32bit action, hope your review will be published "soon". Also did you get a chance to take a look at their BIGTREETECH SKR V1.1 modular smoothieboard ?

[@AlexKenis]

Good eye. I really want to re-do this vid, but you can't upload a different version unfortunately. I'll include an update in the 1.6+ review, which Ill do in good faith, hoping they will get the complete files up soon (they kiiinda released 'changes' files, but not complete). I'm just waiting on some more drivers until I do that vid (last shipping update was 2 weeks ago). As far as the SKR board, if they release the files (maybe ther are posted somewhere and I didnt see them), I'll look into doing a review. I try to focus on open source, but even so it is much much harder to do a real in-depth and accurate assessment without complete data. Heck, I'm still waiting to see if they get all the SBase files up so I can look at that. The posted SOME them, then removed them, then posted them again, then removed them again... so that one is in the same boat: just waiting the PCB files and schematic.

[@silvrcel]

There's an error in the PCB design for the RAMPS 1.6 made by HESAI. Found they had a trace that shorted R16 for fan mosfet led which blew the led. Not sure if it's the same for bigtreetech board

[@AlexKenis]

Good catch. I just checked a bigtretech 1.6 board, and R16 trace is fine

[@Flumphinator]

I got this exact board about a week ago after I nuked my 1.4 board being an idiot (took out the arduino too!). I didn't have too much time to do proper research and I just snagged it off of Amazon. I reconfigured a fresh Marlin file and it's been working really nice with a new set of LV8729s. The bed heats a little slower than my old 1.4 board, but I think this is because of a lack of PID tuning on my part. It has no trouble staying hot once it gets there. I will also say though, I had to enable endstop noise filtering in Marlin, which I didn't have to do with the 1.4. Maybe that has to do with it being a 4 layer board?

[@AlexKenis]

That's interesting. I would think that the issues might be related to the chopper in the driver chip. If they kick out more electrical noise than your other drivers, that would explain the problem. WHen I get around to doing more driver testing vids, maybe I'll set up a noise test to see if that is a significant issue for some

[@alfredanil]

Correct me if i'm wrong. The mosfets need to be soldered in opposite direction for the heat sink to be effective. Hope i made my point clear, i mean the metal plate on the mosfet should face upwards so that the heat sink can dissipate the heat better.

[@AlexKenis]

typically yes, but I think they were just going for "better than the 1.4 design". But it gets complicated for surface mount depending on the board design: PCB thickness, filled vs clad via holes, spreader planes or lack of spreader planes, trace thickness, etc. (for example, the board itself is an insulator, so if you have a thick pcb, a thicker top copper pour and heatpipes could be more efficient, etc) The thermal design of this board is nowhere NEAR optimized, but pretty much any D2pak is going to be better than the ramps 1.4 thru-hole to-220 without any heatsink. That all changes when you talk about adding metal heatsink fins and fans though.

[@aarondavalon8985]

Hello apologies for jumping into this discussion but I am attempting to build my own first 3d printer (graber i3) I purchased one of those ramps 1.6 Arduino board and stepper drivers package on AliExpress, unfortunately no build instructions etc.etc. now I'm not very experienced and I have overloaded my brain with all sorts of info but I took the step of purchasing a MOSFET to use with the ramps board only to discover there are no instructions on to how to wire the MOSFET into a ramps 1.6, I do understand how to wire the power to and from but the control wire I am at a loss as to where that should go. Is there any info out there?

[@AlexKenis]

The bed mosfet on the 1.6 should be pretty good, but if you still want to use an external board, they typically have 3 connectors: board/control, bed, and power. Typically the board connector goes to the ramps d8 screw terminal on the ramps. Most that I have seen are pretty similar, so read/watch a few guides online to get the hang of it. search for installing external mosfet board, or something similar

[@aarondavalon8985]

Alex Kenis Thank you for that info I did that yesterday after a brain fog moment I think I panicked after looking at all the wires.Thanks again.

[@Bajicoy]

Thank you for telling us about the RAMPS 1.6! I saw it for sale but the single connector for the board and bed sent red flags and I wanted to wait and see for the machine to be reviewed, I think I’ll stick with the RAMPS 1.5 for now. Partly because I like moving away from the large polyfuses and upright mosfets and it might encourage more manufacturers to continue developing the RAMPS boards, what do you think RAMPS 1.7 or 2.0 will look like?

[@AlexKenis]

Well, v1.5 was proposed by a community member, but never really hashed out on the forums and it seems like Biqu was the only company that ran with the design, the community in general has somewhat given up on the ramps, but I think that is a mistake since there is no other viable replacement anywhere near the price range, and many people refuse to spend (or can’t afford to spend) as much (or twice as much!) on a printer board as they would on an entire computer motherboard. v1.6 was Biqu's own numbering, so I’m not sure what they have in mind for the next gen, but I agree with you that the SMD mosfets are a good direction, and doing away with the PTCs will solve some issues (I with they used replaceable fuses though). They should release at least the schematic and parts BOM with the changes so that they are not violating GPL AND so that the community knows what they can do with the board: many people will stay away because of the mystery and the GPL issue. As far as what I would do for a new version... it’s probably too in-depth to write in a comment, but I have been considering making a video about that, so maybe I’ll do that soon. Among other things, they should address the power, safety, and connectivity issues, and break out the unused Arduino pins so that we have sufficient connectors for SilentStepSticks. That would be a good jump forward. Other thoughts: Bring back the separate power connector for the bed, replace D1 with a regulator or adda a zener or other voltage knockdown to prevent the arduino’s regulator from frying if you use a full graphics display or when using higher voltage, etc. A Due compatible version would also be nice.

[@Bajicoy]

Alex Kenis I did not know the 1.5 was a community design, thanks for your thoughts! You really know your stuff, I agree all those changes would be great improvements, also, there is a Re-ARM board for RAMPS that supposedly gets you a 32bit due compatible system with the standard board, cost is about $45 I think it is the cheapest solution atm if matterhacker gets them back in stock, that is without playing with RAMPS-FD or RADDS territory. You really hit the nail on the head, cost is by far one of the biggest limitation, I really hope more RAMPS compatible due boards go on the market to lower the cost, being able to flip flop from 8bit to 32bit by swapping a single piece would awesome!

[@AlexKenis]

Yeah, I hope I am remembering correctly that there was discussion of going ramps 1.5 with all surface mount parts, but no official files were posted and the Biqu board is the only thing that finalized it. And yes, re-arm looks like the cheapest route at the moment except hacking a regular RAMPS for 3.3v logic and re-assigning some pins (which I'll post a vid for only after I have time to test it for safety). Ramps-FD never got finished because the two main devs moved onto other things, and the boards on the market are the early, unsafe v1 version, and need to be modded to be safe (mosfet logic switch-on sequence and thermister inputs specifically), v2 is safe, but nobody makes it. Radds is nice, but expensive. There is also Smart-ramps which is about $25, is open source, and adds an EEPROM which the Due doesn't have, but it inherets some flaws from ramps1.4. MAN, i'll have to organize all this stuff and put an overview video out because the 32-bit world is still all over the place.

[@Bajicoy]

thanks! haha, if you ever make a video that tries showing how all these different methods work together I'll smash that thumbs up and loop the video for days XD

[@AlexKenis]

HA! Yeah, 32-bit printing is still in a confused state for a variety of reasons. I'm still going through all the data, but after I organize my thoughts ands finish the 6 videos that are already in progress, I'll do a whole series on budget 32-bit. Apart from the options mentioned, there are also dev boards that have a 32-bit processor, wifi, bt, sd slot, display port, USB, etc for $5-$10 that are just begging to be built into a printer, which I will definately try -- and film -- when I get time to hunt one down with enough I/O and the proper capabilities.

[@citronski]

Someone send this man some dough for a new multimeter! Quick!

[@CXensation]

He can easily handle such a minor repair, no worries :-)

[@Johnny010]

Yeah....fuses. A fuse isn't a simple "oh...my machine doesn't work because the fuse blew". Many people will replace a fuse thinking it is the source of a burnout/point of fail. Fuses blow because something else is wrong with the board causing a short. Someone who can't solder 0805 or 1206 SMD components shouldn't really be trying to figure out other board faults (experience) and should just spend the £30 on a new board. To me, harder to remove fuses are a good modern safety feature.

[@AlexKenis]

I hear ya. I have that same feeling when I see people putting fans and whatnot on polyfuses that trip from over-current... the problem is not the device.

[@dougc3086]

I won't buy until it is open source - thanks for sharing

[@MrEkg98]

Bom is on gitthub 30A fuse. 5A fuse

[@MrEkg98]

I am thinking the fuse is there to protect the board. It might be better to fuse the heatbed after the board and before the heatbed. Normally fuses just protect wires or a circuit. 30a fuse might be bad for the standard mk2 bed if it fails. Anyone chime in got ideas?

[@danieloconnor9266]

Hey Alex, great videos, I recently purchased this board and sofar its done alright, im wiring some tmc2130 currently (with the help of your video) and hope to integrate the board with my ATX PSU and Octopi for gcode controlled power off. One thing I have noticed is there is no ps_on connection next to the rest button (like on a ramps 1.4) any chance you stumbled upon this in your research? Im starting to think they removed that ability to provide room for the mosfet/ heatsink combo... Thanks!

[@AlexKenis]

Ah, good catch, I forgot to mention that in the video: They moved the ps_on/5v/vcc header up by the E0 stepper wire header

[@danieloconnor9266]

Excellent! I never would have noticed the small vcc there (as the other markers are covered). Now im off to tinker some more, thank you!

[@Wello789]

Still dont know how to power up the servos ... no BL Touch until somebody finds that out. Does anybody know how to get 5v to servos ?

[@docpug6861]

Very nice video! I am interested in your opinion about upgrading the whole 3d printer to a 32-bit board, such as the Arduino Due (maybe with a RADDS board). Does this give any benefits to a normal, cartesian-based printer such as the Prusa i3?

[@AlexKenis]

I am going to get some Due 32-bit vids up eventually... I’m just waiting on a few things and tying up some other videos. 32-bit has some nice possibilities, so I’ll have to test whether it is worth it for Cartesian YET. If 32-bit hardware comes down in price, it will be a no-brainer, but apart from that, it will likely come down to features and whether Marlin's new S-curve acceleration lives up to the hype (looks promising). I’m fairly certain though that even Prusa will be going 32-bit with their next big printer iteration, and I would bet that it will be based on something like the Ultimachine Archim 2.0 board. I mean, it would be a good market move for them to do up an ‘i4’ with 32-bit + color touchscreen, and ditch all the linear rod for v-rails (or maybe Hiwin-type shaped rail, although maybe not since they could binding issues with running those in parallel for the kits and whatnot). Off the top of my head, as far as Due board tests go: RAMPS-FD, smart-ramps, and modded-ramps, etc would probably come first since they are cheap -- between $10-$25 or so. RADDS looks nice, I'll probably do it eventually, but that board is under CC3.0-non-commercial, not GPL, and they chose not to release PCB files for quality purposes, so there are few sellers and they are still much more expensive than the other options options (around $55-$60 or so + the Due). I'll have to check the quality and see if the extra $$ is worth it... it's just a tougher sell for DIY guys when Due+Ramps or even an SBase are half the price.

[@glennedward2201]

Ze Doc ,going to 32 bit is recommended if you want to improve every aspect of your printing regardless of printer frame (Cartesian, Delta, Core X/Y, etc..). I can’t tell you the difference you just have to connect one and see for yourself and you’ll wonder why you waited. We have several different setups here including Duet WiFi with the Duex 5 board which is premium in itself and than we have a samd1 Uno, and a Due board with Smart Ramps (RADDS) like you’re considering and basically the arduino version of duet and can in fact run the duet firmware if you want but be sure to verify gpio’s are pinned correctly. I do like the Due for reasons you can easily expand on it and it’s more cost effective than Duet but for ready made; the Duet is hard to beat, and you certainly can use arduino expansions with it depending what you’re after. We used these for several various machine types and even for some simple single axis operations.

[@Lennings82]

I sow another vid you made With the TMC2208 driver but on the MKS Gen 1.4. There it sounded like its was good to run the drivers on 24v. is it just to cut the leg on the Ramps 1.6 card and runt it on 24v and i get 24v to the drivers??

[@joshualongenecker8916]

Hello Alex, thank you for these videos! Quick question, I not be using the RAMPS board for my heated bed so the current there isn't an issue, but I will be running 24V for the rest. Theoretically this should simplify things on the RAMPS board side. I know you have caveats for most of these boards, is there one that you prefer if the heated bed portion isn't being used? Thanks!

[@AlexKenis]

Most are okay at 24V or more, especially if you are using an external FET for the bed, so just make sure the polyfuse and capacitor voltage ratings are high enough, and the 1.5/1.6 use 32v SMD fuses so those are fine too.

[@Harinderbhinder]

Hi Alex I'm using Ramps 1.6 board from last few days when i power on it start heating the hotend V6. when i connect with Pronterface i can see temperature is rising. Any idea why ?

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing Nice commands :-)

[@rachelmarlinge7495]

Hi, how do you activate servos ? It seems there is no power. Do I have to sold something between J4 2 pin connectors ? Thank you.

[@AlexKenis]

J4 is a 12v header, which is usually labeled '12v-aux' on ramps v1.4, so don't jumper that or you'll short your psu. When I did a point to point check on the v1.6, the servo headers were wired the same as v1.4 (i.e. '+' is hardwired to 5v, '-' is hardwired to ground, signal pins are wired to the MEGA's 'D4, D5, D6, and D11') so they should behave the same as regular v1.4 ramps.

[@cthulpiss]

SMART RAMPS next, by any chance?

[@James-un6kx]

I see you talked about ramps 1.4 and ramps 1.6, but you didnt make a video about ramps 1.5. what do you think about the 1.5 version of the board?

[@AlexKenis]

I included a 1.5 board in the video with the 1.4 boards, but I didn't go into much depth. In a nutshell: It is basically a 1.4 with surface mount components. A few things are moved around, but the schematic is basically the same. Like ramp 1.4, it is barely adequate to handle 12v electronics if you use a heated bed, but is okay for 24v+. The 24v mod is simpler than 1.4 because it uses fuses instead of poly-fuses, so you just have to snap off the backfeed diode and power it seperately.

[@stevesquaredink3884]

hey man i found you videos last night i bought two Da Vinci 1.0a yea i know right but i only paid 100 for both one new in box and one with 45 mins print time on it so i get theme and switch to repetier fw now im wanting to build my own printer you think i should gutt what i have or just keep them and start fresh p.s i like the hardware videos iv seen so far i understand like 90%of the stuff you talk about but i could see how someone with out so much 3d printer or electronics exp could get loss but pls dont dumb down what your doing for the masss

[@AlexKenis]

No shame in a pair of printers for $100! Good question though. If it were me, I would keep the boxed one as-is, pull the main board out of the other and sell it , and then go from there. If you are not looking to print super fast and you just want a functional machine out of it, with a bit of hacking, you should be able to just put a ramps or something in it (I'm sure there are a ton of davinci conversion posts out there), but even if you can only salvage the steppers/wiring/switches/etc, it may be worth it to reuse those in a custom build.

[@stevesquaredink3884]

yea for sure and talking about fast have you seen the klipper firmware dude does a cube stupid fast. thanks for the reply yea i got some really good prints from the davinci's. i was thinking of using them to print all the parts to a new printer then selling both. they seem to be selling for just a lil less than retail in my area on craigslist

[@AlexKenis]

I've been checking in on Klipper occasionally for a while now. Looks promising! When they get Trinamic support ironed out a little better, I'll put it on a machine and give it a try.

[@UmarSear]

11 amp fuse at 24v, that's close to 270W no?

[@AlexKenis]

Correct, sir

[@sethkrumm3302]

There is currently no Marlin configuration for this board, making it quite literally useless.

[@Wello789]

it is the same as Ramps 1.4, I am currently using that one and printing just fine

[@spunashell]

You mention "a denectly built ramps 1.4". Where does one find that?

[@AlexKenis]

Yup, I hear ya. Other than the ‘premium’ boards (which are so expensive that it is not worth it) I have not found one that is perfect without work: -Robotale and Keyestudio are good if you run at 24v, but you have to modify the PCB traces because the the MS1-3 pins are all permanently jumpered. -ZYLtech boards are solid except for the absolutely HORRID mosfets and the fact that you’ll have to replace the 16v polyfuse to run at 24v. - Bigtreetech 1.5 is okay-ish except the output connectors are only rated at 10A. - Bigtreetech/Geeetech 1.4 is also okay if you find one from the batches with gold pins and upgraded mosfets, but you’ll also have to replace the 16v polyfuse for 24v. - Etc etc etc

[@citronski]

I found the premium board made by staticboards to be of good quality, not even that pricey (they are made on spain and i'm in germany).

[@spunashell]

Nice! Any links?

[@citronski]

There you go: www.staticboards.com/products/arduino-shield-ramps-1-4-sb-premium/ I ordered via Tindie, worked fine. The same dudes also sell an ATX breakout board, which has replaced my chinese firehazard :)

[@stevevanderkooy9982]

Have you actually made this board with Alex? We ordered a 1.4 and got this instead. We have not been able to flash the firmware successfully. Not sure why it doesn't seem to upload... Newb obviously.....

[@AlexKenis]

Yes, I have used 2 of them. The RAMPS should not effect the firmware upload though. Typically those type of problems are either in the port/board/etc selection in the arduino ide software, or a bad usb cable, or another program is using the software COM port (for example, don't have pronterface running when you are using the Arduino IDE, etc).

[@redherring5532]

Great