Oliver Hydra Power Drive Rebuild Part 3 - final assembly and testing

The final installment of the series, assembly of the main unit and testing it before it goes back in the tractor. This one will be going in the Purple Oliver 1850.

[@johnbrewer7062]

This is a great video if you are rebuilding the hydra power. I only forgot the snap ring on the front of the output shaft and had to go back in to install it. My clutch lever was also on backward when I disassembled it and wouldn’t have known it was wrong except for this video.

[@jimball816]

excellent excellent video. thanks for showing how it works & explain pump mechanism

[@jimfranseen5871]

Thanks for another great video, Chris! Good plug for the Floyd County Museum toward the end too. For any Oliver folks that haven't been there It's well worth a visit or two.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Agreed!

[@davidtanner4020]

Chris I can’t thank you enough for the advice on Facebook, you saved my ass on that damn oil pump!!!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Not a problem!

[@davidtanner4020]

It was a problem for me! Of course that is the second perkins my friend has rebuilt in his whole life, last one was in 1976, it went into a cockshutt 570

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I was standing right by mine, took a look at it, and said "Aha, I bet that's it" I doubt I would have thought of it otherwise.

[@Ham68229]

This is why I keep saying, Oliver was so far ahead of it's time and still is. Nothing really complicated about them, so easy to work on. Only complications that would be present is, parts availability. Great video as always, cheers :)

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks! Oliver was originally going to go with another version of the power booster drive with the dry clutch. Thank goodness they threw that out and came up with this, but that's why early 1800 and 1900 didn't have a power shift option.

[@petepeeff5807]

Fun fact from my misspent youth. In the 70's when you put a shift kit in a turbo 350 or 400 transmission the kit would instruct you to change the fluid to type f because of the friction modifiers you mentioned.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Cool!

[@leightonfarms4962]

Thank you sir

[@stevewesley8187]

No runs , no drips , no errors ! Good job .

[@judithcoffing6326]

Thanks Chris. Great vid. I may try to do this myself on our 1800C restore. Might have to have this tear down and assembly vid running as we do it. LOL. See in the background what appears to be a wheel center or weight painted pretty "clover white". Betting it's for the "Purple 1850"? Keep them coming. Great way to spend a Sunday afternoon after Church.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yes it is. I even have some purple painted. I'm going to do an update this week.

[@robertdaly9036]

Exceptional video again today. I hope some engineering college will pick up on your shop videos. Your ability to explain is exceptional. Top class.. 👍👍

[@bigfoot4515]

Thanks for a great video. Worked for a neighbor who had an 1850 with the 2 speed hydropower with leaking seal. He tried to take it and the engine out to fix but got hung up on a stud at the front end of engine. Seems like he couldn't get a wrench/socket on it. Can't remember if it was an engine mount or radiator as this was 40 years ago. He gave up and we just kept checking and adding oil to the hydropower. You might know what it was we couldn't get lose.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks! The front engine mount is a single bolt that is trapped by the yoke on the wide front axle. If someone had a long one in there and then switched to a wide front, that would make it impossible to pull the engine without pulling the front axle.

[@marcussamson7640]

Or they forgot to pull the PTO shaft

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@marcussamson7640 Good call!

[@aaronkaraszewski2749]

Can't wait. Ill bring the coffee!

[@arnoldalt2571]

You said that Oliver stopped using a release bearing lube hose because of over greasing. I have had clutches apart and found hand fulls of grease in the bell housings. When they stopped using lube hoses did the go to a different design release bearing. Thanks Arnie

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

It's basically the same bearing and carrier. They didn't drill the casting, and the bearing was the same without the opening for grease. Ive put greasable bearings on non greasable carriers.

[@richardpeoples2887]

Great video, when I tested my rebuild I used a 1/2 110 Volt drill, when in direct I had to hold the drill with two hands to keep it from spinning. One other suggestion, if you use a short piece of radiator hose it is less prone to winding up. Thanks for all of your guidance.

[@timnichols9015]

I see freshly painted wheels in the background!!! I saw a Purple Oliver here in Iowa a few years ago. Not sure if it was an original ......likely a tribute. Either way a great story and neat you are doing yours!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yep. I got a sample of some purple mixed and painted a couple panels last week, and the color turned out great! I'm going to do an update video on the project this week.

[@kc8esc]

Thank you for all the information! Very helpful set of videos.

[@michaelfreehling1914]

Great video Chris. Thank you for taking the time to do them.

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

Always great videos Chris 👍😎

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks, Ed!

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris I've had quite a few people ask me questions about a few Oliver's, I always send them to you 👍😎

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin Thanks! I've been watching Straight Pipe Acres pull the clutch on his 2-105. He's gettin 'er done!

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris ya, he said he had been chatting with you about it 👍👍👍👍

[@jamiesmith143]

Great job as always! Informational and entertaining stuff.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thank you!

[@patrickpigg4132]

Thanks for the lesson , Chris. Hope I never have to use it. I have been using hytrans in mine for the last 18 years. Fingers crossed!

[@briangrendzinski5411]

That's totally great 😊 Now I understand ☺️ how it works 😃. So back to my uncle 1950. Before engine swap. It had two problems that day. The long shaft was one and there was a problem in the hydraul unit. Will it work until the day of the engine swap with no problem. I talk him into the 3spd hydraul with the perkins engine. Thank you very much for all that you did in explaining it 🙂. Great teacher. 👍😎

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Nice job on the rebuild.👍

[@shawnartz7113]

Nice video as always

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks Shawn!

[@scruffy6151]

👍👍

[@WFE_1983]

Great video Chris appreciate all your knowledge. I just finished overhauling the over/under in my 4-210. I’m assuming the same principal would apply for bench testing it?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yep. I put the gauge in the same port as this hydrapower. Adding or removing shims is in the same location. Overdrive takes more power than the other two speeds and can make a drill grunt. I also have a set of old cooler lines that are cut off to about 8 inches or so and a hose between them to loop the cooler flow back in.

[@WFE_1983]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris awesome thanks so much!

[@ryanroskamp3068]

Hello Chris, I love your vids. I'm in need of some help im restoring a oliver 70 widefront for an FFA project and was wondering what brand and color you use that best matches the factory paint? Thanks!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Oliver Heritage has a handy chart full of paint codes at oliverheritage.com/oliver-history/oliver-paint-codes/ I have used PPG acrylic enamel in the past, and I am happy with the results. I am using Nason urethane on the latest tractor, and from what I'm seeing, the urethane is worth the extra money. Any place that mixes automotive paint ought to be able to use those paint codes to get your the right color.

[@ryanroskamp3068]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks very much 👍

[@straightpipeacres6365]

I'm gonna keep these videos on the back burner hahahaha. Just incase lol!!👌🍻

[@richardriehle4159]

interesting.

[@AmericanLocomotive1]

Doesn't that mean you do not have engine braking while in underdrive?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Correct. It's best to stay in direct drive while going down a hill or it can speed up.

[@tysonfrank2105]

Hey Chris, not to be nosey.... but can I ask a favor?.... I'm a beggining farmer, and I've been buying tools.... can you give some advice on some "must haves" for tools?? I'd appreciate it!!!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

A good cordless impact sure is handy. I only use my air impact for the real heavy stuff any more. A good 3/4" drive ratchet/socket set. Never underestimate what can be fixed with a crescent wrench and a pair of vise grips. I carry in thr cab a craftsman tool set that comes in a plastic carry case. That, a crescent and a hammer will fix 90% of the things that go wrong in the field.

[@jonathanschlaepfer9684]

Excellent video very informative.. we always used to send the Hydra powers out but the place we used to send them doesn't do it anymore... I'm thinking of tackling one myself.. I noticed you reused your old clutch plates but does the kit include new ones

[@jonathanschlaepfer9684]

My Oliver 1950t slips and almost comes to a stop when you're climbing a hill but that be the clutch or the hydrapower that's gone bad?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

The clutch discs do not come with the kit. As to the 1950 T, does it slip in both speeds of the hydra power? I'm leaning towards the main clutch. The sprag in the hydra power is typically a yes or no kind of thing. It either grabs or it doesn't. If direct is slipping it will only slow down to underdrive then the sprag grabs.

[@jonathanschlaepfer9684]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris well it doesn't have a 2-speed anymore I put a 3-speed over under Direct in it about 20 years ago and yes that is slipping in every range... if I come to a hill when I'm bailing or just on a hill for any reason it's start slipping in over I'll shift it to direct and then it slips for a little bit and then it grabs a little and then I'll shift it to under and it still slips and eventually it will grab... after watching your video I started to wonder if maybe it wasn't the hydropower because you still would have direct Motion in underdrive

[@jonathanschlaepfer9684]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris putting it in under is my best chance of actually getting up a hill because it's putting the least amount of pressure on the clutch

[@jonathanschlaepfer9684]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris and I want to thank you for posting that video Hydra Powers have always been a mystery to me and my father before me you broke it right down explained everything and made it seem very simple I have an 18 50 that I know that you speed is shot in and I'm thinking of rebuilding it myself using your video is a guide

[@hughperkins707]

Is the oring style newer or older?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Oring is newer.

[@OTuit]

🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨

[@crrassh]

Does white 2-105 use same style over under drive?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

No. There are some similarities, but there's even more that is different.

[@crrassh]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks , is it easy to remove to work on it like that Oliver version?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Removal is the same. Pull the long shaft that goes from the engine to the PTO. Disconnect wires, hose, etc from the engine, and lift the engine and over/under out together. The 2-105 uses a trunion mount at the back of the over/under, so it just slides apart. Slide the engine forward to get that uncoupled and then lift. If you have a cab tractor, you'll want to loosen the front cab mounts and jack the front of the cab up a little bit to get the top fuel tank out. It makes everything else a lot easier. They really tucked that engine in there tight. I think they're pretty easy to work on, but I don't know how many I've had apart. A shop manual tells you everything you need to know. You can get one from the Floyd County Museum at floydcountymuseum.org/

[@crrassh]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks for that information