This is pure genius. I’ve been lifted and pushed … never really understood why I either got lifted vs pushed. Thank you
@javier576611 ай бұрын
Clay you are the person with the highest ability to trasmit propper knowledge!
@nathanallen7550 Жыл бұрын
Honestly, this changes everything. After a fairly traumatic year all the stress seemed to transfer into my surfing - I was getting more and more tense in the water, catching fewer and fewer waves and ended up really frustrated with myself. Along with some of the other OMBE videos, this has helped me relax in the ocean and fall back in love with surfing again. Thank you Clayton!
@skisurf6134 Жыл бұрын
Game changer, pure gold. I wish I had known this 30 years ago.
@Hotwire_RCTrixАй бұрын
Bethany is a living legend and role model to being human.
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Inspirational
@donuteatingtiger Жыл бұрын
I love how you are integrating the examples visually through video montages! Great content and thanks for sharing!
@SeanChandlerSFАй бұрын
2:20 hands down the best illustration to make the point.
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Cheers
@kirbyharness9696 Жыл бұрын
Great insight and having surfed over 50 years I can use all the help I can get these days beyond more volume and less rocker. I would add, knowing your break and the angle of the waves and where the energy peaks is instrumental. Stay perpendicular to the wave and using your hands and arms to knife through the water instead of pushing water down vertically may help.
@jodiah52 ай бұрын
True mastery of ANYTHING is making it look effortless! Like it’s supposed to happen! Good info broham!!
@Jo-pg5gr2 ай бұрын
I've been listening to your Mind Surfer video's but it was the pre-pop up video and this that I listened to yesterday that was a game changer. I went out early this morning and just felt a completely different relationship with the waves. I was so much more relaxed, taking off on the peak - admittedly it was only small but it was perfect to practise leaning back and gliding in and letting the wave do the work - or behind it . Normally I paddle so much to get waves I'm exhausted after an hour but I had the easiest funnest surf ever. It was like a miracle!! I was that stoked. Thanks so much for all your advice, it just makes a huge difference. I normally go to my mates for a Sunday arvo beer and chill in the sun on the verandah but now I'm thinking maybe I should go for another surf when the tide is good instead. Beer or surf, beer or surf.... well knowing me the beer will win but I'm absolutely frothing to get out there and do it again so thanks a heap. Love your work. I was just out there saying to myself, I'm doing the Ombe glide!!
@ombesurf2 ай бұрын
Haha epic I love that YOU changed the way you think and felt surfing! Pass it on to your mates over a beer and share the knowledge. They probably won’t believe you because only a surfer knows the feeling
@Jo-pg5gr2 ай бұрын
@@ombesurf They are already great surfers - that's all we talk about over a beer pretty well!! I loved the mind surfer program too. Well worth the money.
@betel1345 Жыл бұрын
Love your whole approach to surfing, Clayton!
@DeborahT-q7n8 ай бұрын
Super helpful. I have trouble integrating this advice though with the advice from other videos to, say, exhale at the last paddle (via Twiggy) in order to tilt your weight forward and thus tilt the board forward. Leaning back, of course, has the opposite effect. Are they tools for different scenarios, tools to be used in sequence, something I'm missing? I'm wondering if perhaps tilting your board forward with your weight or an exhale is a good tool for catching a shoulder when the wave lacks steepness, while leaning back on the tail is useful at the peak with all it's power? Can anyone help resolve the apparent discrepancy?
@SB-vh9bs6 ай бұрын
i have really weak waves where i live and i cant catch anything by leaning back it doesn't work at all. have to paddle like a mad man and lean weight forward.
@WEEBER132 ай бұрын
Yes, you're thinking about it correctly. It's a sequence: slide down the wave with your weight forward first, then shift your weight to the back to "get caught" by the wave's power. This all happens in a matter of seconds with an experienced surfer. The stronger/faster the wave, the less weight needs to be on the nose (& the less "sliding" needs to occur) prior to the wave "catching" the surfer.
@robertpearce7726 Жыл бұрын
I after surfing for 45 years, I’ve fixed 20 years of mistakes in the two years following you! Thank you
@RossenBial Жыл бұрын
Awesome theory, great surfing documentary filmmaking. Your channel guys is the one to look for help!❤👊🏼🤙🏼
@earthy770 Жыл бұрын
Love, Love this video and illustrations. Just Beautiful
@Clayt1111tonАй бұрын
Genius 😎🏄🏼♂️
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Thanks
@JackDeFarro3 ай бұрын
This is brilliant! The only caveat is that you should be at the correct section of the wave to utilise this motion. And it's all about experience (especially on beach breaks) to get where you should be at the exact correct time. So this is not a silver bullet but still a great finding of something that look counterintuitive at first glance!
@ombesurf3 ай бұрын
Thanks Jack
@MrJMHP2 ай бұрын
On steeper waves i use the angle of the wave to catch the wave, chest forward to use the weight for instant speed and only few 2 or 3 stokes. On smaller or flat waves ususally i paddle more specially to be closer to the power of the wave. Above all i learned that position and reading the wave is the main keys to catch more waves and ride with ease. When the set comes i dont paddle like crazy... I wait a few seconds looking to the wave to understand what to expect.. I try to stay always eye contact with the wave while paddling to position before take off and right before the take off i LOOK BOTH SIDES over my shoulders (this is the moment i understand the power i need and the timing to catche the wave) ending paddling and looking where i wanto to go... Take off!
@ombesurf2 ай бұрын
On point !
@kimball_stone Жыл бұрын
This is interesting, counterintuitive, and basically the opposite of almost every other instructional video I've seen. But the example is clear and matches the form of every great surfer I've seen out in the water lately, doing 2-3 paddle takeoffs. Can't wait to get out and try it!
@ombesurf Жыл бұрын
You will be surprise!
@ricood Жыл бұрын
Thanks, fantastic and informative video. I’m riding longer boards now 7’6 and up and often feel like I’m going to nosedive the board. I think the tail is getting picked up early. Is it more difficult to keep the tail down of longer boards? Is there any additional recommendations or techniques for longer boards? Cheers
@matteot69036 ай бұрын
Great explanation Clay👏👏👏
@shaybowen2239 Жыл бұрын
I've been surfing 35 years (59 now), and I've been blowing/missing so many take offs over the last 12-15 months. Looking back on it, this is the exact reason why. Don't know if I suddenly picked this up as a bad habit ???
@metallitai4 ай бұрын
this is masterful explanation. kudos sir!
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Glad you liked it!
@WEEBER137 ай бұрын
2:25 -- So helpful to see!!
@ninerminer3709 ай бұрын
Thank you 🙏
@niconine268 Жыл бұрын
Damn son. This is something
@mikecummings36115 ай бұрын
Love it did it it works Ty guys!
@MikePalmer-r3x8 ай бұрын
Very cool, I've managed to feel my way into this on more forgiving waves like the cruiser, or bigger slower wave thanks for sharing such an epic game changer. For intense takeoffs, particular the strong suckback intermediate wave (my nemesis, hardest takeoff I've ever experienced) I'd love to see video of the intermediate from when you get into position onwards to see the lead in, and slo-mo as well if possible. I did notice last time it sucks back hard in the blue dots, then very suddenly pushes forward in the black dots. Also, I have lost weight now (a year off with surgery and daughters VCE), but I've noticed a round tummy sharpens the point of balance on the board dramatically on shortboards, and makes quick popups harder. Much easier to take off now it's flattening off. Thanks, Boz
@timwannell6477 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this trick!
@DGT73 Жыл бұрын
She’s the goat
@seacamp1 Жыл бұрын
I see the light but also i notice pros with their chin on the board while paddling into steep waves please clarify
@ed1pk Жыл бұрын
If you are paddling into a wave early, you need all your weight forward to help get into it. Like longboarders do. If it’s about to break on you and will pitch you forward, you need to be further back on the board to prevent pearling/getting flipped. For big conditions, it’s safer to paddle from the outside and paddle into the wave early to avoid getting caught inside on powerful sets.
@ombesurf Жыл бұрын
This applies when you are in the right position to catch the wave. Check the examples of pros your re mentioning and you will see they are catching the wave late or further out in the shoulder.
@rodrigoalencar2305 Жыл бұрын
🤯🤯🤯😮😮 I'm 180 and trying to get on my feet using a 7'0 sometimes I paddle like a crazy to get nowhere. Also I'm trying to really surf the wave instead of going straight to the beach
@ed1pk Жыл бұрын
2:34 Leaning back won’t help the first two people. They don’t have the balance and reaction time to catch these waves from that position. They need to start further back and paddle earlier to gain enough momentum and extra time to drop in on the face. Bigger boards will make up for paddling power and slightly angling their takeoff will get them down the line.
@ombesurf Жыл бұрын
The examples are shown and the knowledge is shared. There is nothing else we can do for you.
@ed1pk Жыл бұрын
@@ombesurf LOL. My intention is not to criticize or offend. :) Your examples are an excellent way to differentiate between "push" and "lift". Just wanted to point out that those first two needed enough speed and momentum to catch those waves to avoid just being "lifted". They don't have the balance for shortboards yet. The only way to learn and gain that balance is to move to bigger boards and only move down when they are consistent. (catching more than 50% of the waves) This is what most surfers fail to realize and waste too much time on shortboards or boards to small for them. Anyway, great surf tutorial videos! Love the the in-depth thoughts and discussions. 👍
@thiagofrancisco51476 ай бұрын
@@ed1pk yeah, it makes all sense, I'm still in the learning phase, and I have two boards one 6.6" and another one 6.2", and only after I got used to the bigger one and in situations where the wave was nearly too break on me, I could starting using the smaller one. So I agree with your comments, only after we get the balance and understand other principles like where you see is where you go, we can start applying these tips that were shared.
@dz1515 Жыл бұрын
Smart. Thank you. Ps, what is thr name of that track? Good tune.
2 ай бұрын
Wowow thanks
@ombesurf2 ай бұрын
Welcome 😊
@theheroformula-orgАй бұрын
Also, can i sit too far back on the board? The waves here in Baja on the pacific side break so fast.
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Yes can can. You need to shift your weight distribution to accelerate and slow down as well as turn and go up and down
@theheroformula-org2 ай бұрын
Bro!!!
@ombesurfАй бұрын
Bru!
@theheroformula-orgАй бұрын
@@ombesurf what i meant was Bro! This is great info!!
@MarkSven888Ай бұрын
@@theheroformula-orghaha steve! Im in 9 palms last few weeks. I’ll hit you up when i head back that way. This video rocks
@iamok20095 ай бұрын
totally yes. you've always got to try to get the board horizontal by shifting weight from front to back. but beginner surfers are taught all sorts of things by others, so this vid doesn't get its rightful share of views.
@turbowtime96113 ай бұрын
Then why are so many shapers creating boards with more volume in the front?
@ombesurf2 ай бұрын
Board sizes are dropping but we still want hold off the bottom and paddle power. Now you know!
@rickstacy222 ай бұрын
Do keep your weight back all the time , or do you lean forward,once you start to catch the wave
@ombesurf2 ай бұрын
Tilt your head back slightly and raise your help as this aids the pop up. The wave will try to lift the tail and push the board forwards
@victorm.4314 Жыл бұрын
This needs more details. There’s a lot of feeling and timing involved.
@macioopa Жыл бұрын
You shouldn’t sell this trick…. Now will be more crowds on the wave !