Overland Custom Design Sway Bar End Links & CB Antenna Mount

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video we show you how to replace your worn out end links with beefier links from Overland Custom Design. We also highlight a CB antenna mount made by them as well that can be purchased for both driver and passenger sides. Use promo code "sicmods" at checkout for a discount off their products!
These links feature:
*OEM style joints
*OEM thread pitch
*Sealed joint rather than open
*Maintenance free
*Greater range of motion than heim joints
*OEM torque specs
Check them out at: overlandcustomdesign.com/
*Front Sway Bar Bushings*
*Prothane Red
amzn.to/3p3DJl0
*Prothane Black
amzn.to/2WoA1WH
*Energy Suspension Front Red
amzn.to/2KAbSto
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As amazon associates we earn from qualified purchases.

[@_FaTMaRV_]

Ordered mine Saturday and received them Wednesday…..saved some cash with the code!!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Solid! Good to hear and thanks for stopping by the comments and sharing

[@_FaTMaRV_]

I’m a little late to the party but just ordered a set with the sicmods code! Got the ball joint style front and rear with a deep discount 👀👀👀👀👀.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Better late than never! SICMODS my dude! - Sean

[@craigoller9283]

Just did my steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, and replaced my end links. My end links where 20 year old factory end links. When I put my Allan wrench in the bottom of the end link and attempted to undo the nut. The Allen receptacle rounded off. I ended up having to cut my end links off with a cut off wheel. Good times 😂

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I hate when small jobs end up taking more effort than you thought. Glad you got it done though!

[@khtut8015]

Good job guys , thank you .

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks, and you're very welcome.

[@on-site4094]

All right Sean. what have u done with Timmy LOL. Merry Christmas 🎄 top shelf content great work guy’s 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I was in Death Valley doing some wheeling. A wheeling video of my adventure will be coming.

[@todddiehl7252]

Sickmods and sick video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sickest of the siccccc

[@CaptainSkidmark74]

Just ordered these links.... 4runner was lifted 3" by prev owner...recently OEM front driver's side end link snapped and took out the CV boot....good times.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Smart choice. Thanks for the comment.

[@zman92630]

Happened to me two weeks ago. Ouch. I feel ya bro

[@davidscopaz4177]

Will these work with a sanoran steel 1.2 with FJ80 rear coils? Would rear quick removable links be advantageous for more rear flex?

[@HTTR_FOREVER21]

I have a limited 4R, but I live in the city ( alot of pot holes ), would these be a good option for me. Thanks Timmy for your videos

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Pot holes don't really have much to do with sway bar function. That's more of a suspension issue with springs and shocks. A sway bar just controls the amount of lean you get in turns to give you more control of your vehicle. So, if you're looking for something to handle big pot holes better, look into better suspension, or just do your best to avoid the big pot holes.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

The antenna bracket is nice

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You need to get one! They are solid.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey Sean have you had any problem with the end links rusting I have had a crap ton of problem with end links of all brands rusting and im in az lots of flash rusting all of them were black

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Maybe a little surface rust but nothing significant

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman nice... its bad here on how much rust other brands accumulate

[@theshyguitarist]

I'm a little confused because I was told by a suspension guru that the rear end links need to be about an inch longer than stock if you have a decent lift kit on your 4runner to avoid preloading the rear sway bar. Also read that the front can either stay stock or go slightly shorter. Thoughts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you lift your truck, and you don’t extend your end links, they will be pretty cranked on by the new angle and pulling of the sway bar. These links are adjustable so you don’t have to extend them super crazy. Your guru may have some truth in what he says but is your truck lifted? I think once you see the strain on the stock end links you’ll see what you need to do to either keep the front and the rear the same length or have them extended a little extra to reduce the gnarly pulling the sway bar does to them

[@vadedrs7639]

Will these work with a 94 surf? (1st gen taco version?)

[@dannycuellar408]

Can you drive around with those LED whips or can you only have them on the mount when off roaring, etc?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You wouldn’t want to drive around with the led whip turned on.. I suppose you could drive around with it attached, but that mount is intended for a CB antenna.

[@benriewer7817]

I installed the previous heim joint versions on my lifted 98 runner. Great product and even better customer service from OCD, Mike was very helpful. Mike/Tim/Sean, what are the pros/cons of the new models vs the old OCD heim joint models? Is it worth upgrading the joints, or even possible? I know greater range of motion was mentioned. I feel the fear of missing out creeping up on me...

[@mikestudt7551]

Heim joints are a great option for strength & reliability. They also require maintenance to keep the joints clean, and the keep the races from failing prematurely. Depending on the climate where you like that maintenance could be every month to a couple times a year. The new forged joints are going to be maintenance free joints. They're also completely sealed, strong, and have a larger range of motion than the heim joints. In my opinion the forged joints are a better choice than heim joints.

[@benriewer7817]

@@mikestudt7551 Thanks for the reply Mike. I do regularly use tri-flow lubricant on any heim joints or uniballs on my truck to keep them as clean, dry and lubricated as possible. That combined with the heim joint boots I ordered with your links will hopefully keep them in service for a long time. In the event that they do fail, is it possible to replace the heim joints with the forged joints and keep the same hex tube centers and bushing/stud assemblies? If that is possible, would you be willing to sell just the forged joints? Thanks for the info.

[@mikestudt7551]

@@benriewer7817 yes, you can purchase just the forged joints, and they'll work on your existing links.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

More motion then a Hiem Joint Interesting So these are better then Yota Nation Quick disconnect End links

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Can’t speak to the competitors but we have always had issue with disconnects.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman I remember awhile back timmy did a video on heim style end links with quick disconnect

[@mikestudt7551]

@@AntonioClaudioMichael if you look at my earlier work you'll see a striking resemblance between Yoda Nation and mine. The heim joints they use don't appear to be chromoly, and do appear to be yellow zinc coated steel. Most likely a steel race and not nylon or PTFE. Not all heim joints are created equal. Something else to consider, adding longer links to the front will give you almost the same amount of travel as a disco, and you won't have to worry about binding your CV's. (My comments on the disco's was based on visual appearance only. So thing can be determined on a surface level, and others can't.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@mikestudt7551 thanks for the Info Mike I appreciate that

[@johnaustin2276]

I just got my antenna mount but saw you had a quick disconnect for the lighted whip,is that a standard for those?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That quick disconnect came with the LED whip. Take a look at the picture when buying your whip and it will show it in the pictures if it comes with it

[@scubbarookie]

Thank you Tim and Sean for these cool new products and videos. I ordered the the entire set of both front and rear links and seem to have a problem with one of the front links. The (one) suspect link binds badly and stays stuck whilst being moved to check range of motion. I've contacted Mike from OCD and he said that it's just a problem with tolerances and should be fine! However, I've worked on hundreds of vehicles and know when somethings not quite right. The other links move with no problems and seem great. It takes about 4 or 5 times the strength to move the one in question! I may be the only one with a problem, because now I feel like returning them and paying a 20% restocking fee! If this happens, I probably won't ever buy from this company again or ever recommend them ever! What do you guys think I should do? All I wanted was to exchange the one part! Dude! I would cover shipping if that was an issue, I'm not a cheap customer! 😧

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just tell him you're not happy and you'd like to exchange that one end link. If he wants satisfied customers, he should do this.

[@scubbarookie]

I'm gonna have my friends asking me about these links too! What am I to say? I didn't even ask for a discount and would be happy to cover all the shipping needs including the new part, if needed... This is a pending problem at the moment, but I'll send Mike a message soon. I just don't feel right about this one part. I get it too about returns and how the owner of a business usually gets the bad end of the deal; however, this is not one of those situations! I'm a grown ass man, and I cover all my bills and fix my own problems... I hope he realizes that upsetting a customer that could help his business can be problem if both parties are unreasonable.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@scubbarookie I think he should replace the end link if you're unhappy. That's smart business keeping your customers happy. I don't know why he wouldn't do that for you.

[@johnaustin2276]

Are these end links for serious 4x4ing or would just replacing ths bushing on the OEM links be the option for medium 4x4ing?

[@mikestudt7551]

Not so much about the strength, and what you do. It's really about getting longer links in there.

[@lukestoyz]

Is this for a lifted application or stock height?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This will work for both. They were installed on a 4runner with a 3” lift. The links themselves are 1” longer than stock.

[@REDROCKMAN2010]

Are these available for the first Gen Tundra?

[@mikestudt7551]

1st Gen Tundra links are available on our site.

[@mattpulliam3657]

Installed this a few weeks ago and I’m hearing creaking noises when I get in and out of my car. Do you think lengthening the end links would eliminate the noise? Does it just need lube? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Did you get the heim versions or the sealed forge joint? Dry line for heims is kind of a regular maintenance item. Heims get noisy but that noise doesn’t affect performance

[@mattpulliam3657]

@@TimmyTheToolman I got the forged ones. Didn’t have any noises my first few weeks. Then I started hearing a pop in the rear. Tightening the nuts fixed that. Now I’m hearing creaking from the front. I replaced all the bushings at the same time as well

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Try reaching out to mike the owner of overland custom designs to get more details

[@kaylachiarenza9120]

Because there are threads at the bottom and top, and we are installing a 3"lift, which part do we lift from bottom threads or top?

[@kaylachiarenza9120]

We dont want them to snap

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Adjust the nuts all the way to the bottom on the thread and Then install.

[@joshkrouse7560]

I have added these links to my 3rd Gen with 3” Toytec lift and now I have a popping noise. I didn’t have the noise when I had the stock end links installed. I have them adjusted close to stock length. An suggestions on why I am getting the popping?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you have everything tight, you shouldn't be generating any popping sound unless your sway bar bushings are really wasted. Double check you have all the nuts tight and examine the condition of your sway bar bushings front and rear.

[@joshkrouse7560]

I figured it out. One of the end links in the rear was making contact with a bolt creating the popping sound. I just flipped the bolt and the sound is gone. I was at my wits end. Thank you for the reply and suggestions. Your videos are the best!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@joshkrouse7560 Glad you figured it out Josh. Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. Happy Wrenching!

[@axjarrett539]

Hey Josh, could you plz explain more in depth about which bolt you flipped? I am chasing the same popping sound too with these new OCD heim endlinks. This week I drove w my front swaybar off to narrow down the pop

[@joshkrouse7560]

@@axjarrett539 ok. So my issue sounded like there was a popping coming from the front passenger side. I thought it was a bad CV joint so I replaced the axle. After that the popping continued. Come to find out it was the rear passenger side. So the bolt that goes through the stabilizer bar. It was hitting the link bracket. I had it originally with the head of the bolt facing out toward the wheel. I flipped and the popping stopped. I hope that helps.

[@bbauerf1a]

Did you have any trouble getting the rear hatch aligned with the antenna bracket? Seems like the bump stop sticking out a bit would cause some misalignment

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It makes the hatch a little more “snug”. But both vehicles haven’t given me any problems. With that said, our buddy Jordan shaved his hatch bump a little to compensation for the 3/16” that the mount adds.

[@bbauerf1a]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I got a very similar mount from True North Fab and I've had trouble getting it to align. My hatch was scraping the side of the bracket so I had to loosen the hatch hinge bolts and adjust to keep my hatch paint. It goes down a little crooked but clears now. The bumps and striker look to align it when it closes, but I can't add the bump on the antenna mount side because then that side won't close all the way and noticeably sticks out a little further that the other. I thought about shaving it, or designing and 3D printing a new shorter bump. Anyways, love the videos guys!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Brian Bauer yeah I can see that happening.. the bed liner I put on my mounts doesn’t help the clearance at all but it still works and looks cool +2HP!

[@bbauerf1a]

@@TimmyTheToolman Woohoo! Just make sure you have clearance for a good ground connection from your antenna to your mount and to the body. (Coming from an RF antenna Engineer :))

[@rallypoint1]

I was using one before my Sirio 5k. They are pretty good mounts. The rubber door alignment bracket didn’t play well with the antenna mount. Just didn’t use the rubber bracket. It works well but does have some flex if using a 4ft fiberglass antenna without a spring. So use a spring and it solves that. Also there is not enough metal for a good RF ground. SWR could be high. But that can be fixed by using a flat 1” flat ground strap from mount to body.

[@CRAZYYAK]

Do the front links need adjusting for a 3 inch lift

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No they are already slightly longer than stock. These are meant for a lifted vehicle. - Sean

[@davileett1224]

@@TimmyTheToolman Are they actually longer though?

[@user-qs3qx6jl2q]

Regarding the links. Are you suppose to get the sway bar and links as close to a 90 degree angle as possible?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They can only go on one way so I'm not sure what you're asking. The end links for the most part will be perpendicular in relation to the sway bar and lower control arm, if that's what you're asking

[@nicholaskwasny8343]

Ive been searching for what the angle is its supposed to be adjusted to as well

[@citizen_or_civilian]

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that 15 ft lbs for the top bushings might be too much. I tightened mine down to that and the bushings looked ready to burst and the washers were cutting into them.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah the spec seems high, just use your best judgement and tighten until you see a couple threads on top. As long as you have some of the threads going through the nylon part of the nut you should be good. - Sean

[@sugjavier5197]

Is there any noise or popping with these? I have read some concerns in the forum but I think that was the heim version not the forged one you got here

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No popping or clicking with this version - they are like beefed up versions of the OEM style end links.

[@sugjavier5197]

I'm sold! Ordered

[@james_the_darklord]

The short one should be in the front?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No shorter one in the rear

[@TheBillyBlack]

Are you supposed to put longer links on when lifting your truck?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You don't have to but it helps bring the sway bar back to a more stock location which helps with handling on the pavement.

[@TheBillyBlack]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. You’re more helpful than Camburg. And I haven’t paid you thousands of dollars.

[@citizen_or_civilian]

Who makes the front bumper on that truck?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

ARB

[@josecastro2630]

I tried to use the promo code, it’s not working is there any new codes for them?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The “SICMODS” promo code is still valid, and applies to sway bar links and accessories.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Are they rubber instead of poly

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Bushings are rubber, yes.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman I have to much problems with rubber they rot to fast and crack here in az rubber always cracks a few days after I put them on think its just way to hot were I live

[@mikestudt7551]

@@AntonioClaudioMichael bushings are poly rather than rubber.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@mikestudt7551 oh okay black poly bushings got ya i guess me and Sean or timmy were both wrong thought they were rubber

[@ianbayus5185]

Why does the links look different on the site pictures than in the video? has a different bottom bolt configuration.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not sure what you’re looking at, you should contact the manufacturer. - Sean

[@lancet-kinzhal-su57]

That aboyt analog for TLC 100 ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not sure what you’re asking here.

[@lancet-kinzhal-su57]

@@TimmyTheToolman bars & links analog for the land cruiser 100 ...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@lancet-kinzhal-su57 Still not understanding. Are you asking for the Land Cruiser 100 part numbers for the sway bar and end links? Your use of the word "Analog" is confusing.

[@kflo1219]

Are these $170/pr or EACH??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A pair

[@zarathean8758]

whiteline bushing > energy suspension (i have both)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know! Why do you prefer white line? Any experience you can share? - Sean

[@zarathean8758]

@@TimmyTheToolman better product design especially in regards to the lower control arm bushings whiteline supplies a sleeve etc and you dont have to salvage the cam pin, would be main one, and they seem a bit more rubbery for urethane bushings than the red energy suspension ones (i have front/rear sway, panhard, and few others from energy)

[@bayareatech]

Tried using your discount code just now, but im getting a message that it isn't valid.

[@mikestudt7551]

Does NOT work on the new forged links.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What are you adding to your cart?

[@bayareatech]

@@TimmyTheToolman Was trying to buy the new end links that were just released.

[@axjarrett539]

min 2:35 says to use the longer end link for the front & shorter links for the rear. Is this a correct statement?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The statement holds true. Compare your stock links for reference

[@theshyguitarist]

@@TimmyTheToolman I just installed new end links (not yours) in the rear of my 4th gen and they are an inch longer than stock. You don't want any preload on your sway bar.

[@judsssis]

The upper bolt on the front ones in 1 cm too short at least, can not fit even the upper washer on the front left side Useless

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You have to adjust the thread up. It screws in and out. - Sean

[@judsssis]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yes the bottom part in order to lenghten the whole link but I'm unable to screw out just the upper part. A vice would damage it. Or I missed something.🤔

[@judsssis]

@@TimmyTheToolman Checked it again. You can split/unscrew the bottom part from the center body but the upper part is fixed. Seems like it has been screwed in with a lot of heavy loctite during production so you cannot adjust the amount of the upper thread available unfortunately.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sorry to hear you’re having troubles - have you reached out to the manufacturer for more info regarding your issue? - Sean

[@judsssis]

@@TimmyTheToolman You were actually right. It was stuck into the center/ middle part and unscrewing it by hand was impossible. Put the center part into a vice with a towel, then used two nuts to counter each other, went easily off with two flat 19mm. Install done, fits great. Thanks for the help and very useful channel 👌 Helps a lot for my J9 5VZFE prado.