Oxygen Not Included - Tutorial Bites - Cooling

[@saultraver]

My tiny brain couldn't understand much of this but thanks! Good guide!

[@luistamez7448]

Wish more people would include a liquid reservoir in the designs as this helps in expanding and maintaining the over all temperature more consistent.

[@GCFungus]

That's a good tip, and you're right it will help stabilize the cooling temperatures. I don't use these myself as I have not found them necessary so didn't think to include them, but you certainly can do.

[@Galaxy_World]

​@@GCFungus to*

[@DRY411S]

What's a liquid reservoir design?

[@flowergurl1009]

It's basically where you add a liquid reservoir at a point in the cooling loop, that allows you to more precisely control the temperature, because of how thermals work in ONI, if you pump all the liquids into a liquid reservoir, it will stabilize the liquids better to allow for some more precise cooling, since it will try to even out the temperatures in the reservoir as much as possible

[@emiktra7929]

The main reason for a buffer tank is to have a stable flow of liquid that doesn't get stuck. Say you have a loop with no liquid reservoir. If you overfill the pipes with too much liquid, it will stop flowing. With a liquid reservoir it flows freely. Stable temp is an added bonus

[@NveSmyrna]

These are excellent tutorials. I have more than 2500 hours in ONI and still leaned new tips. Well done!

[@shfam7603]

It’s crazy how much effort Klei put in for temperature, elements, and the machinery for industrial production.

[@Nen_niN]

I really needed to see this. I usually only play to cycle 100 and then quit because I get anxiety over heat generation and sustainability (I'm a noob lol). I'll make an honest attempt and use that turbine design you showed off. Thank you very much.

[@GCFungus]

I'm sure you'll get there, good luck!

[@antonije]

So how it is going? Did you get there? :)

[@mso2013]

​@@antonije he died if heatstroke

[@helperdude8205]

well i just make ice art to lower it but i been getting worry as by power system started to go too high but as it a geyser setup i just wait for it all out add ice art to cool then remove the water and seal it back up before it start again and when it off i have pet make energy do have to move the gas pet out so it allow space for more energy pet and i got a poll water geyser with a water heater set up sadly i need to work on auto off on the water heater as sometime it dont stop right away

[@Valchrist1313]

lmao, I'm trying to give tips, but KZbin keeps censoring it for Global Warming misinformation... The key takeaway was not to destroy the giant heat sink which is the water and dirt of the starting biome. Digging the starting area up and making a grid leaves you with nothing to absorb heat.

[@moksound19]

the one-take visual reference you use is a superb utility for this kind of thing, kudos.

[@overlordkye]

Clean, methodical, and comprehensive. Your tutorials are some of the best I've ever seen, and not just for ONI. Thank you!

[@Anonymouschannel8181]

The one take reference image is so good! Thank you for doing that, I've spent way too much time on video tutorials scrolling back and forth trying to pause on the exact moment where they show the pipe or power overlay for example

[@Somebody374-bv8cd]

I've found that the steam turbine overheat temperature is a "trap". It says 1000 degrees in the info card, but since the turbine stops working at 100 degrees.....it means it can essentially be built from any refined metal excluding mercury (obviously) since even lead's melting point is far higher than 100 degrees and the overheat penalty doesn't matter since it's subtracting from 1000 degrees.

[@pyromaniacal13]

I'm going to find myself watching this channel a lot while playing ONI.

[@wapper7777]

bro i wish you had more subscribers. your tutorials are by far the best and most helpful ive ever seen, but they never show up in the search feed

[@GCFungus]

Thanks! I am aware that they don't show up to easily in the search, I think the algorithm seems to be giving its blessing to older, more established channels and videos.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

weird, i search for this channel specifically and it pops up every time. maybe... try that?

[@wapper7777]

@@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489 it was a typo, if I search for his channel it comes up. I meant suggested feed. However if I search something like “critter training ONI” this channel is usually not very close to the top

[@MyNameIsHan]

I'm only in like 30 hours in the game and this melts my brain. I haven't even seen most of those machines in the game yet. Still very helpful.

[@OgdenM]

The game never stops melting your brain hah.

[@dabrams84]

​@@OgdenMIkr it's amazing.

[@ubentu]

At 10:37 when you pulled out the graph I knew I could rely on this design.

[@dr4kul978]

holy shit im an HVAC technician and u just created an AC and a chiller unit effeciently

[@blazeraz7666]

Yeah if you don't consider the steam turbine that literally deletes heat then this is totally plausible

[@baobaohelps]

Oh my ... the air-lock separation method towards precise temperature in different rooms is brilliant.

[@Frankenstyles]

I have found all your tutorials an esential source. Bravo my friend.

[@OneBiasedOpinion]

Again, I absolutely love these tutorial bites. They are concise, cover the specific topic very thoroughly, refer to other bites for mechanics not discussed here, and are very easy to listen to. I will add just one thing here that probably is (or will be) already covered elsewhere in a tutorial bite: granite (and gold) are decor-positive materials, thus making them ideal for use inside areas which dupes will frequently see. This is another good reason to use granite as pipe material when inside dupe-frequented areas, provided you do not wish to use gold. I almost always make all of my “indoor” regular pipes out of this material.

[@trulers8713]

I love this so much! I'm not exactly the best at oni and don't starve is mich less advanced so it helps to have simple tutorials, you look up cooling on yt and you'll get a 3 hour long video with no chapters or indicators of methods.

[@candy-ass4915]

Old comment, but it makes no difference when you use granite for regular pipes, for decor at least, because regular pipes have no decor associated with them. 20% of 0 is 0. It only matters with insulated tiles which have a very small decor penalty, which shouldn't be made out of granite anyway.

[@OneBiasedOpinion]

@@candy-ass4915 ah, I actually didn’t realize regular pipes had 0 decor. Thanks for the update!

[@candy-ass4915]

@@OneBiasedOpinion No problem. It's still a fine idea to use granite pipes regardless, but yeah, leave the granite decor for the statues and such :D

[@punkw4449]

Thank you so much for all these videos! your videos are informative and straight to the point. Plus you include different examples and options.

[@ShinraSetora]

The last one is very nice and look great as well, I used it and added 6 natural gas generator on each side and it works very well, all that closed into a hydrogen chamber and everything stays pretty cool, like there is 12 generator in total so they never stay on very long so only one aquatuner actually keep everything at a very good temperature, thank you for the video!

[@GCFungus]

That's great to hear, I'm glad to have helped. What I would add is that the final design is for fine temperature control (where you need better than the 14 degree range the aquetuner gives). You might fight it simpler if you are only cooling generators to simply use the steam turbine and aquetuner without the cold injector and do it all on one loop.

[@ShinraSetora]

@@GCFungus oh yeah I understand my generators don't really need the precise temperature check but it does look cool so I enjoy it!

[@baobaohelps]

This channel is a gem! I'm glad KZbin finally suggested a gem on my homepage, subscribed immediately after checking out your channel main page, Brilliant! Channels with let's play series is time consuming and not to the point, thank you for the art produced here.

[@ozambersand]

Thanks for a great video. I think the best use of the Anti Entropy thermo nullifier is to cool liquids rather than an area. I wanted to cool my petroleum out of the boiler because running it from the bottom of the base to the top meant I needed to use lots of raw minerals to build the insulated pipes. Looping 151 degree petrol through 13 radiant pipes snaked behind it took the temp down to 100 degrees. Steam is produced in the immediate vicinity, but It condenses, producing a lot of cold water seemingly out of nowhere which I have cascading into a holding pond which can be used to feed the electrolysers. I fed the nullifier with two electrolyses, gathering the excess hydrogen to run a generator. I pumped out the air above the electrolyses and ran that around the cold biome.

[@dragon1011dk]

WoW, Thank you for this! I have learned a lot! Both comprehensive and easy to follow. Thank you.

[@michaelsotomayor5001]

For some reason people think of temperature maybe as the third thing to take care of... I think of it as the first thing, so much so I full blast research insulated tiles. Thank you for the specific heat capacity video! and TC!

[@GCFungus]

Well I would consider food and oxygen to be the most basic resources, and often what new players have to tackle right as they start the game. That's why heat is generally considered third as it takes more time to create a problem than starving or suffocating!

[@Valchrist1313]

I always research the ore crusher first, then smart batteries, because they output a lot less waste-heat. Insulated tiles are more (or less) important depending on your spawn started. If you stumbled in to a geyser with no abyssal between you, or even two, you'd better rush the insulated tiles, and wall that thing off.

[@d.i.g3772]

So thankful for these tutorials. Thank you sir!

[@Matrium0]

Great tutorial! Extremly well explained and thoughtfully structured. Thank you!

[@barak-ht1oc]

I thought of most of it myself in my game, except the last part with the doors, that is genious!

[@TsieLeMoswang]

Hey Barak

[@clarkgrant3247]

Best tutorial I could find on this. Much thanks...

[@joedolce2364]

One of the best tutoriel on this topic. Thank you!🙂💯👍🏾

[@frabac72]

A great guide as usual. Cannot thank you enough for the summary screenshot, you're da best

[@oskar44]

Concise and educational, just the way I like it. Thank you.

[@Tsheets333]

I think your tutorial bites are amazing! Theyve helped me a lot!!

[@osmansoysal3956]

Thank you so much, I couldn't understand how all these works and didn't know where to start it. After watching your video I managed to do it lol. I am at cycle 430 wish me luck and keep up the good content!!

[@GCFungus]

Glad I could help and good luck!

[@sidneyghatisingh5720]

this man needs more subs these are great

[@ovoidal14]

This is awesome, I recently built an ethanol petroleum boiler setup and had trouble cooling it when my cool slush geyser went dormant, so these tips will help me so much! All I need now is the plastic to make the steam turbine… I guess ill go watch your plastic setup video 😂

[@Crazyhands777]

The only guy I've seen that shows the graphs and data of the cooling delta.

[@GCFungus]

It occurred to me that that was the clearest way to show the changes, and it's how I imagine it in my head.

[@Xuhybrid]

I always use a coolant buffer using liquid storage. That way the temperature is consistent and doesn't spike up and down.

[@obieldenook1142]

Nice explanation on the many way to cool one's base.

[@Ollie4.4.4-wb8il]

Thanks for making this video. It really helped me in the game

[@Wright1331]

Top notch video, as usual

[@metecankolsal9287]

Wow man thanks for patience you show :D I definitely needed that.

[@Anonymouschannel8181]

Great summary, thanks so much. However I don't understand how you hooked the turbine up to the aquatuner. The Aquatuner needs way more power than the turning can put out and now if you connect it to another power grid you risk overloading your wires because you will have a power generator on the outgoing side of your transformers. Personally I wore my turbines (and all generators) on a separate wire that feeds back to my power spine and everything that draws power is protected by transformers.

[@GCFungus]

The simplest way I find is to hook the turbine up to the heaviwatt high side of the grid and use a large transformer to power the aquetuner.

[@onkelkonkel5]

Great video but I miss some explanations as to WHY you do certain things. Why do you mix fluids in the chamber for the aqua tuner? What makes the final design work, like what’s the mechanic behind it?

[@GCFungus]

So having 2 liquids in the 2 tile high room lets you push all the gas out without having to completely fill the bottom layer which would need a lot of water, or without vacuuming. This lets you end up with a lower amount of steam in the final steam chamber. The final design is about fine temperature control. The point is the aquetuner has a 14 degree temperature removal which gives quite a wide margin. But the thermo sensor can close a door to let 'cold' through at an exact temperature, so basically you overcool a big block of thermal mass and then connect to it when what you're trying to cool goes over your desired specific temperature.

[@commonsense-og1gz]

one thing to add is that aquatuners naturally (unless it is made of uranium ore or lead) have a temperature overheat of 125 C. this means that if one has no steel or plastic, or only one of each, then he could build a basic aquatuner in space, and drip liquid on the aquatuner while it is in operation. it would still be more liquid resource demanding, and power inefficient, but it would still keep everything going until plastic and steel are made. on a second note, thermo regulators and nullifiers have the ability to liquify natural gas to methane, something that could be made of use in low kg/s sour gas boilers.

[@GCFungus]

That's true but I wouldn't advise unless you had literally no other choice. It would be rare to need that cooling so badly and not have access to the right materials, I think. And yes I can see that you could make a sour gas boiler that way, but it would certainly be an unusual way to do it - but that's not a problem in ONI!

[@commonsense-og1gz]

@@GCFungus i am unaware of all the circumstances where plastic and steel wouldn't be available, but i did run into this problem hard when playing the radioactive ocean planetoid, back when it was new to the dlc. the asteroid had no rust biomes, caustic biome, or oil biomes and featured a second planet which was flipped, which also had no iron ore, dreckos or oil biomes. francis john played it, and had to make steel through limited amounts of rust, which i can't remember where he acquired it. as for the sour gas boiler, making super coolant can still be tedious, since guilded asteroids tend to be at the edge of the map, and the other way requires an establishment on the water asteroid, for the graphite. if you have no oil, it adds problems as well. nullifiers and regulators are right there for the most part.

[@tyraelpl]

Near perfect tutorial. Very nice. Some of the best imho out there. I hate the AT thrashing tho.

[@deq9740]

Very good tutorial i hope i can use it if i eventually survive till late game

[@baka4767]

You can actually control the ANTN by putting mechanised door and connect it to an automation wire

[@OgdenM]

You can also use a temp sensor on the liquid pipe and a gas shutoff valve on the hydrogen pipe to turn off the fuel supply to the ANTN. I'm not sure what temp you'd want to set the sensor to though. It depends on how close to the ANTN you put the gas shutoff, closer means you set the liquid sensor closer to the desired temp of the coolant. You for sure have to set the temp higher then your desired temp no matter what since ANTNs don't use much hydrogen.

[@Varrick2]

With the addition of the new conduction panel, could you perhaps do a quick tutorial bite on when and why it would be used? Logically it seems like it would be similar heat transfer to 3 radiant pipes for 50 less refined ore, but does it behave differently due to it being one "pipe" instead of 3 separate linked ones?

[@GCFungus]

From a little experiementing and reading others reports, as far as I can tell it's basically like 3 radiant pipe segments but significantly weaker (but does work in a vacuum). Therefore it's only real use is to not have the backing liquid in space for relatively low power applications. So sadly it doesn't really change anything related to cooling in any meaningful way as weak as it is.

[@Denamic]

Its purpose is to conduct heat in a vacuum, so you can cool buildings with a cooling loop in a vacuum without liquids on the floor.

[@darkfrei2]

Thanks for Base Cooling in 2022!

[@mattdeady6448]

the *one* advantage of a thermo regulator over an aqua tuner is for deep freezing your food. before getting super coolant, your best bet using an AT is to use petroleum as a coolant, which has a much lower heat capacity and is less efficient than using hydrogen through a thermo regulator with steel radiant pipes

[@GCFungus]

That's true, and since making this video I've definitely come around to then as an effective food storage method.

[@mekkiepoo]

Thank you for this... back in the day I used to just alwayus build my SPOM in an ice biome and pump the cold oxygen into my base like an air conditioner.. then they nerfed it, and I actually quit the game for years because I didn't like the alternate methods that started popping up (running cold liquid all throughout my base like an eyesore from hell).. It will be nice to try again without making my base look like garbage :x

[@YoGooN1]

Awesome Video! Thanks Man!

[@AbsalomIndustries]

Why make the steam reservoir with two different liquid types?

[@GCFungus]

Basically you want to get all of the gas out of the room by filling it with liquid. If you only use one type of water then you need to fill the bottom row to it's maximum until you can get any in the top, which would mean over 1000kg of water per tile on the bottom. By using two different types you can use much lower mass because the two types cannot mix, thus letting you fill the room with much less steam.

[@tmbomber383]

@@GCFungus You... are the greatest! (You remind me of the narrator from BBC show "The Secret Life of Machines") I'm up to cycle 520 on my Ninth run through. This is the farthest I've made and the first time cooling has been such a huge issue. I've built two of the variety you show at 6:30. I've noticed I get small amounts of dirt in the bottom of the steam tank. I assume this is precipitate from the polluted water after it's boiled off to steam. I inadvertently put too much polluted water in the bottom layer of my second cooler, and it precipitated so much that my aquatuner got entombed in dirt. The thing also was running *really* hot, (350+ degrees) damaging the steel aquatuner. I had to open the bottom multiple times to clean it out & repair the aquatuner, then re-fill and start over. This was frustrating after the third time. I couldn't get the ratios of polluted to clean water right and my steam density was always at the low end of the spectrum. At 12:35 you mentioned experiment with steam volumes. During my fourth cleanout I noticed that if I were quick about it I could open a couple of the bottom insulated tiles, do what needed doing, and close it back up without letting any air in. So at that point I had the tank full of low density steam. Rather than open the top to use a bottle emptier I connected a liquid shutoff controlled feed line to the top of the steam turbine's return line. That way I could use a signal switch to add clean (precipitate free) water to the steam tank so I could increase the steam density while it was running. It still overheated and failed. I noticed my first cooler was still working fine with no issues. So I investigated a bit and found the surrounding temperature of the first unit was around 37 degrees, and 76 degrees around the second. I also notice the running temperature of the aquatuner was inversely proportional to the steam density. (higher density = cooler aquatuner) I started out at around 15 kg per square and kept watching the aquatuner overheat and damage itself. When there was just a sliver of red left in the damage bar I though "screw it, it's going to fail any way" and I turned on the feed switch and let "a whole lot of water" flow in. I had no way of measuring how much I put in, but when I stopped I had a steam density of around 100Kg per square. The things been running for about 20 cycles now, right on the edge of failure, but happy and holding at 152 degrees. Thank you for the adventure! Clicking Join :)

[@w3rDDD]

I just got into ONI and have finally made myself some plastic and was even lucky enough to get a 2% smooth drecko egg drop from one of my normal dreckos, now i can finally build this to cool down my base, but how do I incorporate the base wide cooling system into this? Do I just make a giant polluted water cooling loop? Where should the output of the cold water be, anywhere on the insulated output side?

[@GCFungus]

Yes, basically make a giant cooling loop that runs through your base to the aquetuner as I showed. If the base is very large, you may need multiple loops, but simply for base cooling one is usually enough. A base cooling loop like this is a closed loop - it doesn't have an input or output (after it's filled by bridging on). It just circulates around the base slowly collecting heat, and then the aquetuner can remove it when it gets too hot.

[@traviswoolston8108]

Wow I didn't realize wheezeworts release hot air on top. that's good to know!

[@connorhorn4013]

insanely good video. I might start making it to end games now lol.

[@GCFungus]

I'm sure you can make it!

[@bigcnmmerb0873]

I do be rocking the worts to cool my base and they do a good job at it 😂

[@c2V2ZW54]

thank you very much, impressive work!

[@heyihavenoclue7541]

I dont quite understand why one has to fill the steam room with water/polluted water? Can someone maybe explain? Great video btw! awesome explanations!

[@GCFungus]

Basically you want to get only water inside the room so there is no oxygen or other gas which sits above the steam when it's made. To do that, you can fill it with water but if you use the same type then you need to entirely fill the bottom row which uses a lot of water so you get a very dense steam room (500kg/tile +), so if you use 2 different types of water you can push all the gas out and control the steam levels to be lower at the 20-110kg/tile I would recommend.

[@heyihavenoclue7541]

perfect, thank you! -w-@@GCFungus

[@sarufa098]

Thank you! It was very reference.

[@Denamic]

Why use diamond window tiles for the cold injector? Aluminium has a much greater thermal capacity, and much higher thermal conductivity. And for a greater thermal mass, you could make the central part 3 wide and fill the middle with a suitable liquid for your desired temp range. I mostly only use diamond for hot applications because of its extremely high melting point as I find aluminium straight up better for all applications under 500c.

[@GCFungus]

I suppose it's just my go-to material for heat transfer. Metal tiles would also work, and Aluminium is great - I suppose I come from a mindset of playing base game maps which generally didn't have Aluminium easily available. But it is definitely much easier to get hold of in Spaced Out.

[@michaelrichards5340]

For the record. I just built one of these and my food went into immediate deep freeze state.. Aqua tuner is at 30% c and the goal has been met... Can't tell u how much times I've overheated Aqua tuners to get to - 1 c...

[@Stratus41298]

I followed this injection tutorial but just don't seem to be getting the cooling you're talking about. Everything is the same, but I have the loop wrapping around a four floor battery room. I upped the temp to 80c just to get everything moving and opened the doors but I'm only down to 75c after a few cycles. Not sure what else to try. Edit: I think it's the vacuum. There's just not much conductivity between the doors and the actual cooling loop. I added water to the cooling loop "room" and it seems to be doing much better. I added another tuner just for the heck of it and it's definitely going down now, but still not very quickly. I would definitely have to get this build in place prior to a crisis!

[@GCFungus]

Yeah having enough atmosphere where you're trying to cool is important or the transfer won't be good either. Also for applications that are actively making a lot of heat then that's where radiant pipes are needed.

[@xourst8140]

I am commenting this because I see that you still respond to the comment section, and in hopes that someone can help me. I want to ask/request for a more indepth guide on cold/heat injector, I don't mind the explanation being typed out. I am struggling to control precise temperature for certain conditions and I am not smart enough to figure it out on my own. one current issue I'm having right now on my first playthrough is with taming (hot) steam vents I have a small square section of metal tiles and radiant pipe (both are made from lead) that was meant to cool down the liquid that is produced from the steam vent -> steam turbine output. I set the cooling box loop to be 25C but whenever the liquid output from the steam vent comes out it always counteracts my "cooling box" and thus it only colds down to about 60C. What should I do?

[@GCFungus]

I'm not sure I can be more specific. The box is cooled down to a fine temperature, so the secondary cooling loop that runs through that box will get thst exact temperature. The issue it sounds like your having is the cooling speed. When a cooling line runs through a hot area, it will cool it over time. If you leave it long enough it will equalise fully. But if you want to remove it quickly then you can lower the coolant temperature to get the desired output temperature of the water. So try a cooler loop temperature or wait longer for it to equalise.

[@Indeeeex]

Thanks a lot for the design :) I love the cold injector idea I would like to know how much it can handle. Basically, if i build one, will it be enough to cool down my base & refinery/volcano etc.. If you have any recommendation :)

[@GCFungus]

In theory the cold injector shouldn't be any less efficient than a normal loop, so it really comes down to what coolant you use vs. how much heat you're putting in. Of course a cooling system will easily cover living areas. For the metal refinery and volcano, the best way is to remove most of the heat directly by transferring it to steam and then use a steam turbine to delete the heat and get free power (see the Steel & Plastic Tutorial Bite). Then thst just leaves cooling the steam turbines which an aquetuner can handle. If you try and cool a metal refinery or volcano directly, you'll lose a ton of power and the system may struggle to keep up.

[@Indeeeex]

@@GCFungus thanks a lot for your answer. I got my first cooling loop starting soon. I am planning to cool my power house (5 coal gen) & a cool steam vent to turn it into water (80°C will do). In summary, I can easily maintain temperature, but if I try to cool down too much, I may need pre cooling with steam turbine only before setting up aquatuner loop

[@itsame1056]

My thermo aquatuner keep overheating (~600*C) eventhough i already use steel, how is this possible?

[@GCFungus]

Are you feeding the water from the steam turbine back into the aquetuner? That provides the cooling for it.

[@CaptainMisery86]

I wasn't thinking about where the heat would go the first time I used an aqua tuner and just built it out in the open near my farms. The water was a little too warm for the berries... So I'm sitting there watching the water cool and the plants come back to life all proud of myself and then the overheat and scalding alerts started 🤦

[@GCFungus]

Haha yeah the aquetuner isn't the most intuitive building to use!

[@tristanl8955]

Are there any benefits to using Crude oil or Petroleum over PWater? Where should I be using it? In the Aquatuner loop? Or in the water body to hold thermal mass?

[@GCFungus]

You almost always want to avoid using oil or petroleum as a coolant as the SHC is much worse than water, meaning it runs a lot less efficiently. The only case you might consider it is when th3 temperature range of water doesn't fit, for example food deep freezing.

[@MrAntiKnowledge]

Damn, I never thought to section the "heat exchanger" into 2 chambers so you can have 2 target temperatures from 1 aquatuner. It's so simple but does exactly what you need if 1 aquatuner provides enough cooling power, which for regular base cooling it should.

[@GCFungus]

Well in theory you can run it through as many cold sides of heat injectors as you like, as long as the total cooling required is still manageable with the aquetuner!

[@OgdenM]

I hope this fixes my issue. My main base is overheating (Again). Will running cold water through floor tiles cool off a hot base? I fixed it temporarily by using two electorlizer setups that pump out air that is 30-50 deg F ..it worked great for several cycles. Until my base then hit 1500g psi again (it was super low) and all the air vents shut off. Now all my dupes can breath again... but I'm back to using ice sculptures to keep my crops growing. I DID re set up a water cooling loop through an ice biome but.... I know that doesn't last long. Last time the biome got warm fast. Hopefully it gives me enough time to set up plastic manufacturing so I can get a steam turbine! ...and the two thermo nullifers are busy doing other thigns. One is cooling air, the other is cooling 120deg F water from a cool steam vent going into an electorlizer setup.... and it doesn't get it cool enough to put it anywhere else in my base. I MIGHT just use that one for water IN my base instead.. it's gonna be cycles and cycles until I get plastic up and running.

[@GCFungus]

Running cold water around is definitely a viable way of cooling things down, but the full cooling set-up will keep your base at the perfect temperature forever as long as you can provide the power. I hope it goes well!

[@OgdenM]

@@GCFungus , I haven't made it yet. Not enough plastic. The two thermo nullifers on my map worked GREAT for 20+ cycles and now well, I made the mistake of pumping 100deg F water into my water pool at the bottom and the base is over heating again. The temp just hit 80F and it's been 75 for awhile. I wish you could run water pipes AND gas pipes around a thermo nullifer but... they can't handle it. One of them is cooling air from one electorlizer setup and the other is doing water. (While I have another electrolizer set up cooled by Thermo Regulators). Whats crazy is that the air coming out of BOTH electrolizer rooms is like 44F but, my base is STILL over heating. I moved out most stuff that produces heat. I think one issue is that I'm keeping my base at 1500g of air pressure so the vents turn off and the 44ish deg air out put now and then isn't enough to keep it cool. I could probably let it increase to 2000g but, eeeh that would only give me some more time and well, airvents stop working at what 1600 or whatever. Worse yet, I made my cooling loop of normal water that is also watering my crops so, I can't easily close it off and just use the thermo nullifer to cool the water more. -----which I guess I'm gonna change ASAP because again, not enough plastic to make a steam turbine yet. --this game is seriously the most complex game I've EVER played. The "Oh crap! I'm gonna loose my base!" moments are what keeps me playing... and why I also dislike it hah. ---oh, and uh, don't pull a vacuum in the room you build around natural gas vents. I decided to do so I could stop using gas filters and well, my gas pumps over heated... after the geyser turned back on. After being ok ooh, 500+ cycles.

[@FireDragon91245]

i play this game like somtimes just watching doing things slow i never thought you could do such in depht things

[@arigatoespacialsuperadmiti7316]

There is overheat damage, but stuff can be cooler without damaging anything right? Also I heard keeping a 10% of the pipe or vent capacity does nor do any state change, so it could be an option to overclock the cooling to freezin temperatures with polluter water loops?

[@GCFungus]

Yes, cold doesn't damage machines or dupes, the only risk is state changes from gases or liquids. And yes if the pipe is only 10% filled then the state change won't happen, allowing you to superheat or supercool materials.

[@pixieskitty]

Hello, I'm having troubles moving water around, I'm trying to make a cooling loop where the Aquatuner turns on only if the water is too hot, but the problem is I have a T section where the water wants to go to the exit valve I made, if I remove the connection on top, like an L, then the connection works, but the aquatuner has nowhere to dump water to

[@GCFungus]

I would suggest using a closed coolant loop and using that to cool a tank of water as needed. Then you can set it up as shown and it will bypass the aquetuner if no cooling is needed. Trying to use the aquetuner to cool water directly in it is usually more difficult.

[@pranksteroof7557]

You can still use lead in steam rooms because lead melts at 300C somthing and a steel aquatinter overheats at 325 degrees but most buildings made of steel overheat at 275 lower than leads melting point

[@GCFungus]

You can get away with it, but it can be risky. I think for the small amounts needed for wires and a sensor it's just safer to use any other refined metal.

[@kaboomsihal1164]

I'm wondering why cooling is done by cooling the liquid to the temperature you want and then running it through the area you want to cool. Wouldn't it be easier to get a liquid as cool as possible without freezing and then run it through the are whenever the liquid at the entrance reaches above the temperature you want? Or is that less power efficient

[@GCFungus]

So if you think in terms of heat, you will realize it doesn't make any difference in terms of efficiency. Whatever system is deleting the heat (let's say aquetuner & steam turbine) will be the same, and the amount of heat being added to the areas you need to cool are also the same. Therefore how you make the cooling loops won't impact the power efficiency, so the main consideration is really complexity. You can do it as you've suggested, but that would usually mean more cooling loops and more control automation. If you want to do it that way then go ahead, because the game is all about coming up with creative solutions, but hopefully that explains why using the loop straight from the aquetuner is the most common approach.

[@cyberwarlord7363]

Place storage where resources like coal can be pre-heated. Pre-heat refinement as well.

[@johnx140]

Hi. One question. When wheezeworts consume gas and then cool it, do they consume gas from it and it disapears? Do we lose material when it absorbs it or does it simply cool it and throw it all out?

[@GCFungus]

It does expel the gas so none is lost, in fact you can use them to make a gas pump. I covered that in the wheezewort Plant Tutorial Bite.

[@IcoKirov]

this needs updating because of the added Conduction panel which can cool building in vacuum

[@omarabdelaty634]

If you want to understand SHC better how about an introductory course in thermodynamics and enthalpy & internal energy

[@ihyaakmal5995]

Hey GC, do you know what the problem is with my setup? So, for some reason, the water entering Aquat to be cooled is only intermittent, so in the looping pipe there is 10kg of water that continuously decreases its temperature, then there is 10kg that rarely decreases, then 10kg that always decreases, and so on. If I look at it, it seems that sometimes Aquat shuts down by itself because the outlet pipe is blocked or there is water blockage from the overflow line (from the bridge pipe). I'm sure I have followed your design correctly. Could it be that I have filled the looping pipe with too much water until it becomes full?

[@GCFungus]

It's not obvious from your description what the issue is. I would suggest starting by removing some coolant from the loop to see if that helps. If not then we'd probably need more info so we could help on the discord.

[@ihyaakmal5995]

@@GCFungus hmm.. Well, I'll see if I can have another example, the one I mentioned, already kind of fixed by adding reservoir, and there isn't any that has the same problem.. Yet..

[@privatehuff]

You da man!

[@khkpck]

12:25 i recoment oil or petro for the first layer (no debrie left)

[@bigh1708]

I'm really struggling with this one. I've tried pwater on the bottom, 100kg per tile, with fresh water on top, 100kg per tile, it all dries up, or turns to dirt. With full water 100kg per tile, it all dries up and it overheats. I've added a pipe in there to add more water when the water volume on the bottom goes below 20g, and it uses all the water in the room (it's gone to steam, but not hot enough for the steam turbine) and overheats. By then, the water pressure is too high in the room to add more water. At a bit of a loss

[@GCFungus]

The room below the steam room is meant to be steam, so I'm not sure what you mean by drying up. As long as you put the steam turbine liquid return into the same room then the mass shouldn't decrease.

[@lennoxloll275]

I personally like to use a thermo nullifier to cool a pool of liqid and then use that to cool my machinery as this uses almost no power

[@ezequielblanco8659]

why not use the output of the steam turbine to cool itself? it should be below 100°C so that's enough to keep it in a safe temp range, right?

[@GCFungus]

So this is possible and known as a self-cooled steam turbine. This works because the 95 degrees water can keep the turbine under 100, but leads to 2 problems. The main limitation is that the steam temperature must be below 140 degrees. If it's higher than this then there is not enough headroom in the water to keep the turbine cool. Then as a result of this, such a design is fail-dangerous (not fail-safe), meaning that if thr turbine does overheat for whatever reason then the water flow stops and you have no cooling. This means you have to go in and fix it in this case. That's why I avoid doing this, but they can be used in specific applications.

[@docholliday773]

How does aquatuner not get extremely hot overtime, I tamed my first cool steam vent and inside the aquatuner chamber it gets hotter and hotter, will it ever stop? Right now its okay cus its made from steel but what will happen later?

[@GCFungus]

That's the point of the steam turbine. It takes in steam above 125 degrees and outputs it as water at 95 degrees, deleting the heat. By returning that water onto the aquetuner it cools it down so the temperature will stabilize.

[@Asriel_Cypher]

Is the final build, in the final chapter, self sustainable? I did try to build one but the Aqua Tuner in the middle still kept overheating, even with Steel. I'm trying to build a cheap one in there, using the necessary materials to make sure a room is within the temperature but the Aqua Tuner still overheats. I'm unsure of where to keep the Steam maintained at the right temperature. So I'm experimenting in another Test Save but I can't quite figure it out...

[@GCFungus]

Self-sustainable in terms of heat then yes, it should have stable temperatures. Cooling will always require power input just to be clear. If the aquetuner is overheating then it is likely an issue with the steam turbine. Ensure it is working correctly and not overheating, and also ensure that the water return is close to the aquetuner.

[@Asriel_Cypher]

@@GCFungus Noted. I'll take another look once I'm done with work.

[@MKinitM]

is diamond window tile better than aluminum metal tile? in terms of cooling something?

[@GCFungus]

Any high heat transfer tile will work, so most metal tiles are good (especially Aluminium) alternatives to diamond. You won't notice much of a difference with whatever you use, especially if the temperature differences aren't extreme.

[@L-E-son]

is there a reason you chose diamond over steel tiles made of cobalt? asking to learn

[@GCFungus]

Diamond is just my go-to heat transfer material, but if the temperatures aren't extreme then any metal would also be fine.

[@L-E-son]

@@GCFungus thanks for the reply!

[@ihyaakmal5995]

Hey, will the Thermo Aquatuner in the AT/ST cooling system always get hotter? Because if I look like there's nothing to cool it down, is that okay?

[@GCFungus]

If you set-up a full cooling loop with AT/ST and the thermo sensor, then the AT will only power on (and take heat out) when the coolant has collected enough heat to become hot enough. If the area the cooling loop is running through is not being heated, then the cooling loop won't change temperature and the AT won't run. In that case you aren't getting much benefit from the system, but it won't draw any power or cause any problems to have it.

[@ihyaakmal5995]

@@GCFungus Well, thanks for answering, but I still don't get the answer, I know if the AT doesn't turn on then heat won't be released, but if the AT continues to turn on then the AT and the surrounding area will get hot right? Is that okay? Will the heat there be reduced?

[@ihyaakmal5995]

@@GCFungus Oh yeah, thank you too for making this tutorial, it really helped me start my "journey" in this game

[@GCFungus]

@@ihyaakmal5995 The steam turbine deletes the heat, which is fundamentally how the system works. As long as the AT is inside a box of insulated tiles, the heat won't get out. Then you need to cool the ST which will itself get hot, which is why the cooling loop runs past it.

[@ihyaakmal5995]

@@GCFungus Ah i see, alright then, thankyou so much

[@gotpwnd]

Hi, I'd like to know is it better to use Conduction Panel or Radiant Pipe to cool rooms and areas, i couldn't find the answer and which is best?

[@GCFungus]

The conduction panel was added after I made this video. The answer is that it is much less effective than radiant pipes, but the benefit is that it doesn't need any atmosphere (gas or liquid) to work. Therefore it is best suited to space or vacuum applications for low powered cooling (e.g. robo miners, autosweepers, conveyor loaders etc.). It is unable to cool a steam turbine, and if you're working within the asteroid where you have an atmosphere anyway then simply use the radiant pipes and they will be more effective.

[@gotpwnd]

@@GCFungus Thanks for the great explanation.

[@deilusi]

12:15, that shutoff is very inefficient, if you do something like that, where one is a) priority and b) mostly off, you should turn that shutoff other way, as it uses power only if working. IMHO, it's much better with liquid valve. Set the branch to use 20 grams or something similarly small, and you will both have more stable temps, and you don't use refined metals or power.

[@BossSev38]

No Filter Gate (automation building) before aquatuner? Doesn't it react too fast - "aquatuning" the unit of water before the one under sensor?

[@GCFungus]

In theory possibly, but in practice a filter gate isn't required (at least I've never needed one). I think that's because it's a fair assumption that the coolant liquid packets are of similar temperature to each other. That's not strictly true, but it is most of the time, hence no issue.

[@artemmelnyk9171]

If two liquids is for maintain liquid on the bottom of steam room, oil isn't better? Why steam density is 14-100? Why not 150+- per tile?

[@GCFungus]

The steam turbine only works with steam so the oil will just sit in there not doing much. You can use higher steam densities but these take a lot longer to start up and I believe there is some energy loss when using higher amounts.

[@stefanocau4652]

In my current world i have two steam geysers and a spom that i want to cool, do you think that one cooling loop is enough for all three?

[@GCFungus]

Assuming you're using a water coolant then yes I think a single loop would manage all 3. The only thing I'd say is make sure to go through the SPOM first as you probably want that to be the coolest.

[@stefanocau4652]

Ok, then i'll use polluted water just to be sure. Btw you're dedication in replying to comments it's amazing, not something you find often, thanks a lot!!

[@anthonylopez6149]

i noticed when i tried making a heating loop on rime, by the time the water got to my base the pipes on the other side of the bridge started taking cold damage and eventually the water wasnt heated anymore and it didnt flow. i used radiant pipes but it doesnt work for me.

[@GCFungus]

If the pipes are breaking, then the liquid inside is getting too cold. What temperature is your base at and what heating liquid are you using? If it's so cold, then polluted water may help, otherwise even oil if it's much colder.

[@anthonylopez6149]

@@GCFungus im playing on rime and the temp is around 10 C where my crops are.

[@anthonylopez6149]

@@GCFungus im using a liquid tepedizer to heat up a water source to 100 F and then passing it to the crop area, but the water ends up getting cold by the time it reaches and the heat doesnt radiate anymore

[@GCFungus]

@anthonylopez6149 If the temperature is around 10 degrees then why would the bridge be taking cold damage? As long as the lotion keeps flowing then thr tepidizer will heat it up eventually.

[@blanchechrisitan6893]

... I'm found CO2 lipid gresyer It products CO2 lipid as -50C° What will I do with it?

[@GCFungus]

Well carbon dioxide is only really useful for feeding slicksters, so you can use it for that if you heat it up. As I covered in the geysers Tutorial Bite, you can't use those geysers for much cooling because although they have a low temperature, carbon dioxide has a very low specific heat capacity so it can't take a lot of energy before heating up.

[@rustygray5058]

10:15 This bypass doesn't work - or rather it works too well, bypassing the aquatuner regardless of temperature. You can actually see it *not* going into the aquatuner in the video at this time stamp, despite the automation sending green. Does anyone have a fix for this, or better yet an explanation for why it isn't working as expected?

[@GCFungus]

I believe the reason is due to there being a short delay between the automation detection and the aquetuner turning on. That does sometimes lead to packets that should have gone through the aquetuner get bypassed instead. Generally this is not an issue with a closed loop, as the packets will be of very similar temperature so the pipe thermo sensor isn't fluctuating as much.

[@rustygray5058]

@@GCFungus The way the bypass is built, once the first packet bypasses the aquatuner, the aquatuner is stuck on Pipe Blocked from then on. Maybe if I started it on partial packets until the automation catches up?

[@СергейЛалетин-г2и]

Why were two different types of water used to fill the steam water? (usual water and polluted one)

[@GCFungus]

Because you want to remove all the gas out of the room so only steam is left. As different types of water don't mix but form 2 layers, you can fill the room with much less liquid than if you only used one type of water. If you use one type of water then the bottom layer must be fully filled (1000kg/tile) before the second starts to push the gas out. Therefore using 2 you can get between the 20-100kg/tile of steam that I would recommend.

[@CrypticCode97]

Isn't it possible to cool the steam turbine with its own output water?

[@GCFungus]

It is technically, but the amount of cooling you can achieve with this is limited. This will only work if the steam temperature is below 135 degrees C, and the wiki page has useful information on doing this: oxygennotincluded.fandom.com/wiki/Steam_Turbine#Self-Cooled_Steam_Turbine . I don't personally like doing this because it is fail dangerous, meaning that if the steam gets too hot, the turbine overheats and then the whole system breaks and needs to be fixed as it can't recover itself. Also it is only applicable in some scenarios, as with a significant amount of cooling this simply won't work.

[@ThePrimeMinisterOfTheBlock]

Seriously only 14.1k subs? THat's an outrage. Take mine anyway, +1

[@lionellosanti]

This kind of things tend to overcomplicate a game, just relax and play chill!