Oxygen Not Included - Tutorial Bites - Food

[@carlossouzaamorim]

There's a unique aspect for omelets which is the only type of food that can be cooked without dup labor. Just placing the egg or raw egg in a hot environment (around 100°C) will turn into an omelet.

[@insomnia2411]

You can make the quiche without a grill and only a gas range

[@WatermelonCat-brawl]

👍

[@ProWhitaker]

Omg I never knew that

[@JumpeeH]

Ahh yes, the South east Asian summer technic

[@alamrasyidi4097]

​@@JumpeeHits not even called summer in south east asia. unlike with places with 4 seasons, the seasons is just called "wet" and "dry"

[@lohowlett1891]

The thing that's different and so good about your tutorial bites, is that you have the things you're talking about neatly laid out, like the nosh sprouts, tofu, grill, spicy tofu. It's really easy to follow and understand. I'd go so far as to say it's the clearest tutorial I've found on KZbin and more clear than the big name players tutorials. Thank you!

[@adamkempers4956]

I had no idea how much food was being spoiled until I did a deep freeze. This is a great next step.

[@michaelrichards5340]

Same, I've been confused on how people will show videos with 20mil kcal and I'm on the same cycle with 74k.. I'm on a run now with a freezer at - 41c with 24 dupes and noone can eat enough.. I have 1mil surf and turf... I.. and I did stupid ones like grub fruit preserve at 3mil mixed berries it's crazy how fast grows too

[@lucynewbold402]

I find this game hard as I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I am glad I found your tutorials as they are easy to understand and don't make me feel like an idiot. Thank you.

[@GCFungus]

Thanks for the comment, and very glad I could help!

[@Spoonwood]

Mush fry increases the calories of mush bars. Also, the electric grill consumes 1/4 of the power of the micrboe musher. So, if you cook enough mush fry, it saves on power over making mush bars.

[@adamthethird4753]

Also, cooking mush bar into mush fry kills any food poisoning germs.

[@VadimBolshakov]

also eliminates chance of giving food poisoning to dupes

[@JohnPaul-nb5iu]

You can't make mush fry without mush bars

[@shinykitsunelive]

​@@JohnPaul-nb5iuit takes less power to convert mush bars to mush fry than it would take to get the same calories of just mush bars

[@monsterdonster9981]

@@shinykitsuneliveMy first endgame base was fueled by 100% mush fries

[@mainecp9]

I like your voiceover, it's like listening to Sir David Attenborough speaking about ONI🥰👍🏻

[@MasterOfManyMuffins]

I really want your name to be OGFungus in my head. Thank you for all your great short tutorials.

[@andraspetz9716]

In making a cooling loop for the freeze room I usually go with hydrogen loop, however: If you have any magma around you can easily make some naptha (best material in the game imo) and use that as coolant. Its properties are not great, but it is very easy to aquire.

[@nemtudom5074]

0:35 I believe its 2000kcal on the highest hunger setting, and 500 on top of that if some of them also have bottomless stomach

[@ajshell2]

Here's a tip for people doing infinite food storage, particularly with thermo regulators: You don't want it to cool below the condense the chlorine/co2, so you'll need a gas pipe thermo sensor. But, then I ran into an issue: Once the gas in the pipe was cooled below a point, it would stop circulating, but the food would still go into the freezer area, but the rest of the gas was in insulated pipes, so it wouldn't heat up, while the food would. To solve this, add a pipe bridge by the regulator. Set it so that the gas would go into the regulator first, then into the bridge second. This way, the gas will loop forever, even if the regulator isn't on. Also, natural gas is almost as good as hydrogen for this purpose. Hydrogen has a SHC of 2.400, and Natural gas has a SHC of 2.191. So if your fridge is by your gas range, you could just tap into that pipe to get some, if you're too lazy to get some hydrogen.

[@GCFungus]

Yep, it's the same as a liquid cooling loop but with gas and a thermo regulator. The control is exactly the same.

[@jadekaiser7840]

Surf'nTurf is pretty good because of how easy it is to make a "set it and forget it" infinitely escalating pacu ranch now that they eat seeds. Then you can just have that running in the background and combine it with the barbecue from your hatch ranches and such to get way more food than you will ever need, in the second-to-highest category.

[@VadimBolshakov]

I like that one too. Because although it's not highest tier, it gives anti-rad bonus. Without bothering with the lettuce farm

[@erichu3411]

As of the latest patch, you can’t single-tile ranch pacus any more. Each one needs a certain number of water tiles to be happy enough to make one egg.

[@jadekaiser7840]

Yeah, it's 8 liquid tiles per. Though, that could be worked around if it weren't for the change to critter mood mechanics that added the Miserable status. The Infinite Pacu Engine is no more, sadly.@@erichu3411

[@himawaribro_]

I always recommend your vids whenever I play ONI and if people ask me what KZbin channels I recommend Especially your Tutorial Bites Love the vids!

[@Luma_plays]

Hey GCFungus great work on your tutorial bites and i find them a pleasant welcome. If you don't mind it i would like to mention them/your channel in one of my videos. I think good content deserves some recognition. If you don't want that, than that is also ok, of course :D 2 more things / tips: -dont accidentally film during duplicant night time. If it is a concious decition ok, otherwise it is just unaesthetic. -Food storage is actually even a little bit more weird (and as always may be subject for future change): The food temperature is taken into account. When cold enough it counts as deep frozen even when the atmosphere is warm. If the food is warm (even 1000°C) but it is in a gas atmosphere and the temperature of the gas is cold enough, then the food still counts as deep frozen (even if itself is super hot). Vacuum also counts as a sterile "atmosphere". Since a vacuum can only take the food temperature into account you would need to precool your food. It is also a bad idea to put pre cooled food (i.e. -200°C) in a powered fridge. It almost immediately gets heated up to 0 to 2°C. But an unpowered fridge would be fine.

[@GCFungus]

Hi Luma! Thanks for the feedback, and of course I'd be very grateful for any publicity for my content. Hopefully we can help as many players as possible master the game. I did catch the night time thing a number of videos back (there's a lot to learn making this kind of content!), and I think I've so far avoided it since then. I also appreciate the tips on food temperatures, which I am aware of but didn't include, and it's always good to share. That's the thing with ONI, however much information and tips you include, there's always more to say!

[@Luma_plays]

@@GCFungus Totally true there is so much information, that no matter what you include there is always more :D

[@Robbyo5]

It might be worth putting a uranium metal tile (DLC) near your infinite food storage to ensure that any germs that somehow make it in there to die. It lets you use hydrogen instead of chlorine (better heat transfer to the food and less annoying to cool to deep freeze levels without liquefying) as the gas inside the food chamber if you still wanted the germ removal effect. Without DLC, you could also pass the food through a chlorine room before it makes it in

[@nomadsoul5645]

Amazing! Thank you

[@AudreyRobinel]

Hello! Pips provide less calories than hatches when you harvest the meat. Thus, pip eggs is viable, as for the same calories, it is both faster and simpler (no drowning chamber required). Also pips only eat lumber that ... grows on trees :) So with wild arbor trees, it makes for an easy "no input" food production. Hatches produce more calories, but requires inputs. And as a bonus, pips produce dirt that can be used for farming, trees produce wood that can be transformed into ethanol, thus giving energy, pwater and pdirt. Pdirt can be either turned into water, or fed to sanishells for seafood + sand. Sand can be used to sieve the pwater into clean water, to feed a spom. SO : pips + arbor trees + sanishells = infinite food and oxygen production is self powering, self sustaining without any inputs. It also generates extra power.

[@GCFungus]

Definitely good info, thanks for sharing!

[@turboimport95]

i use the cuddle pip farm and use geyser water to feed the reed plants. only because the pip dirt feeds my sleet wheat so free resource. pips are a great farm. highly overlooked, and a cuddle ranch can get outta control quick. next thing i know i got 25 critters in there and more eggs on the ground.

[@AudreyRobinel]

@@turboimport95 It is only recently that i noticed that cuddle pips had less space requirement than other critters. I really need to give those a try. Plus with wild planting, no water needed. And you always need reed fiber for stuff :)

[@turboimport95]

@@AudreyRobinel yeah but with 20+ critters in a room you cant get enough wild plants to really feed them all, cause reed fiber grows slow. maybe with arbor trees. because if you need fibre they would eat it before you could harvest it. a small ranch would be possible though. plus I had excess polluted water and the dirt they give off is not much but very valuable. i used cold polluted water from a vent and fed it to a metal refiner to heat it up then feed the pips.

[@commonsense-og1gz]

great video, however, i would like to mention a few things: 1. ethanol for nosh sprouts, is not very demanding here. the petroleum generator requires 4 distillers which can feed 60 plants, or 15 per distiller. furthermore, the ethanol contains almost half the heat capacity of water, meaning that it would be easier to cool the ethanol, over the water from a geyser used to feed other plants. since the microbe musher doesn't have strict temperature demands over the plants, you could place a few near a hot water geyser for food production. 2. since you added discussion about plants, i would add that plants without a farm station have half the efficiency of the normal domestic plants. although, not as important for bristle blossoms, it is something that can be quite important with long growth rate plants, such as sleet wheat, nosh sprouts, and dusk caps, which cuts cycle time from 9, 10.5, and around 3.75 cycles respectively. on a side note, farm stations can be used on wild plants as well. 3. eggs are not entirely weaker than the critters they represent. the pip has the same egg kcal amount of the hatch despite the meat being somewhat lower than the hatch. the same goes with pacu, which can produce 2 omelets from one egg. the weight of the latter allows for more lime production as well, vs the hatch egg. 4. i wouldn't sleep on pufts. a standard puft consumes 50 kg of polluted oxygen per cycle, and drops 95% of it as slime. assuming you can extract it before it off gasses, you can support 11.8 dusk caps, this can support 4.4 dupes, from one puft, and no fertilizer, cooking fried mushrooms. since a puft prince is required to keep the cycle going, it can be placed in a chlorine environment to produce bleach stone. one prince consumes 30 kg per cycle, and deposits 10% of it as bleach stone, which is enough to service 6 waterweed plants, which is enough to feed 7 dupes on mushroom wraps. most chlorine vents can support 2 puft princes, or the far superior squeaky pufts. this means that 2 pufts and 2 puft princes can support up to 14 dupes on paper, without fertilizer use.

[@theral056]

Small note on the liquid lock for the deep freeze food storage. Liquid Ethanol has TERRIBLE conductivity (0.171) as opposed to crude oil and petroleum (2.000), and is convenient due to it's temperature range, so makes for a great material for the liquid lock. If you got to plastic and had a way to melt it, naphta is almost as good as ethanol with it's thermal conductivity of 0.200. If you can commit to keeping the freezer really cold, say keep it at -50 degrees without fault, liquid chlorine is amazing because it has a thermal conductivity of 0.008, effectively acting as an insulator. For reference, an insulated ceramic tile has a thermal conductivity of 0.0062, just marginally better than liquid chlorine, so think of a liquid chlorine lock as having an insulated tile there. Personally I find it very important to have a gas sitting on the freezer tile, just in case some food goes off - polluted oxygen in there will cause all food to go off rapidly. Happened to me before, wasn't paying attention and a million of kcal of food just rotted away within a few cycles of being busy on another asteroid :/ I do usually put a uranium tile in the floor next to the freezer for decontamination, so hydrogen or CO2 will work just fine as a sterile atmosphere. Since I'm a sucker for liquid chlorine liquid locks, I can not really use chlorine as a gas :) It's a minor thing in the grand scheme of things, the cold bleedthrough via a crude oil liquid lock is small enough and easily compensated with basic temperature control, and it's easy to keep the freezer cool despite the small inefficiency of an oil liquid lock, even with just a thermo regulator and raw metal radiant gas pipes (steel radiant gas pipes are way better btw, or any of the refined metals you can make them from). So yeah, lots of text for a totally minor concern, honestly, I'm just trying to plug chlorine like I was manufacturing and selling it or something, but chlorine is AMAZING as an insulator. It's too bad there aren't many great applications for liquid locks in chlorine temperature range, that being said, with it's insulator properties, if the base is setup in a regular grid-like pattern, it's easy enough to have one aquatuner run petroleum down to -57 degrees and have it snake past all the chlorine liquid locks. 2 radiant cobalt/aluminum liquid radiant pipes on each lock will constantly maintain it's temperature even in warmer ambient temperatures, as the heat exchange with other gases is so much worse than the exchange with the radiant liquid pipes that renew the chill. Is it more work to set up? Yup. But it reduces lock size by not needing a double-lock with a vacuum (so less space and less dupe travel time to reach destination). Plus, it's freaking cool to use chlorine! If you bothered to get ethanol, it's poor TC and lower possible temperature let's you skimp on insulated tiles almost for the entirety of the pipe network, while still providing enough chill for the lock via radiant pipes, particularly because you can run ethanol at -100 degrees (don't go lower or the chlorine might solidify). It's arcane, it's weird, but I love having a use for chlorine. Chlorine vents and rust deoxiders finally find some good utility. Main advantage as noted is small liquid lock footprint and less time for dupes to cross compared to a proper double lock with vacuum for almost the same effect as the vacuum. Do not use in steam rooms though, water condensing on the chlorine does transfer significantly more heat than a gas in most rooms might. Usually not enough to break the lock if you cool it with an aquatuner loop (one loop for dozens of locks in fine), but it's still a needless risk, and it's not like steam rooms are frequent travel destinations requiring a smaller lock. Long story short, don't use crude oil or petroleum for the freezer's liquid lock. Use ethanol or chlorine. I'd much rather you used chlorine, because it's cooler :P

[@GCFungus]

That's a long comment but an interesting idea. Do you not find the liquid chlorine to be a bit risky? If the temp raises, then your liquid lock falls apart.

[@theral056]

@@GCFungus Well crap I was writing another small essay then clicked out of the dropdown thingy and it deleted what I wrote. So I'll be a bit more brief^^ It's really safe in low temperatures, anything negative up to +50 degrees or so, which has a lot of applications (dreckos, all kinds of farms, which are things that require frequent travel so benefit a lot from a single lock). If your active cooling is up to snuff, you can use it for a hot steam brick as well, if you take precautions that no water can ever condense on the chlorine. So either you put a "cold" (90 degrees or so) metal tile with tempshift plate a few tiles away from the lock, to catch steam that might condense on it and have it condense there (weird, inefficient, waste of power) or you make sure the brick doesn't cool down to near 100 degrees ever. The dangerous temp range for chlorine locks is steam rooms that can cool down to near condensation point. If you ensure the brick stays warm (say you have it on a volcano and pass the igneous rock from the magma through it to cool down to 140 degrees or so, then the steam will always stay warm enough). So a warmer brick is much better than one that can go into an offline period where the steam gets to cool down. What's important, and really important, is to not make something like you might with petroleum. You can't have a 50g droplet of chlorine and expect it to stick. For safe chlorine locks, you want full tiles. While it is a terrible conductor, it also has terrible specific heat capacity, so a tiny amount is still likely to flash at times. I had 2 chlorine vents on the map I started doing that on. That's some 120kg of chlorine per cycle, which lets you build lots of liquid locks at a decent pace. If it's late game and you really need a lot chlorine locks somewhere for some reason, you can ship over salt and gold to make bleachstone and have it offgas in a 500 gram water puddle or so. It's relatively easily to make on-site with gold/salt shipments. Okay the comment is getting long winded again. To answer your question, it's more risky than a petroleum lock for sure, but it's a great compromise between a double lock which causes dupes to run around a lot longer, and single petroleum locks which bleed substantial heat through it. And while it is *more* risky, it's *not very* risky unless things go terribly wrong somewhere. But if you have magma or hot petroleum running into your chlorine lock, something else went wrong and it's not really the lock that failed :)

[@FireDragon91245]

Your insane i love your videos i have found your chanel recentrly but already have watched like 20 videos so helpfull

[@ENDERSTIXgaming]

I plant Bristle Blossoms in my Shine Nymph farms. my colony still produces more water than it consumes so Bristle blossom is my go to source rn since it only needs water and light. the shine bugs have so far become royal bugs which have a higher moral bonus than shine nymphs. planning on filling my 4 luz barracks with abyssal bugs for the moral bonus and the abyssal bugs don't produce light so it won't wake up the dupes and it'll massively increase their moral

[@dirtybirdyyt]

Thanks for the Video! appreciate them and you.

[@machixius]

I will say sometbing about the spindly grubfruit vs grubfruit thing. Grubfruits can’t be used in roast grubfruit nut and can only be turned into preserves which has the extra ingredient requirement of sucrose which you need a relatively large amount of sweetles to make. Roast grubfruit nut does not have this limitation.

[@michaelrichards5340]

It's interesting you didn't mention using the critters, grubgrub is an excellent critter imo, it's actually my fave one because it made had me swimming in over 3mil none deep freeze food because I didn't know about that, essentially move it away from just it's native plant and let is roam your farms, especially wild ones, you can feed it or leave it, it lives 150 cycles and always lays one egg.. What it does is its grubgrub feature which moves any plant to a state of +50% growth speed and seed chance of 15% for a small time per cycle, granted while this cannot be player controlled and unless you have about 3-5 of them roaming your farm u may not get the buff on all plants per cycle but they can decrease fertiliser cost and decrease bristle Berry water demand slightly. The only downside is u need to invest in a small spindly farm with the sweetie critters, that's seemingly the only way to get them to lay grubgrub eggs which cost sulphur but a liquid sulphur geyser is seemingly always on your second planet regardless of starting planet type. It can quite literally drown you in sulphur if it's tamed

[@turboimport95]

Yes!! Grub Grub is the way to go!! I use them on my wild grown lettuce as well as my domestic sweet wheat. lettuce grown wild takes 48 cycles but grub brings it down to 20+. and being wild planted needs no resources. this is the best way to get food grown wild quicker. I let the sulfur geyser flow over into water and claim it later and ship to back. so free food grown quickly.

[@mooham8762]

This feels more like a science video than a game tutorial 😂

[@illiakuznietsov4162]

I really need a desing for Shove voles ranches, since I always just kill them and dont understand how to starve ranch

[@GCFungus]

It will be covered in the critter tutorial bites, but that one is probably a bit of a way off currently.

[@illiakuznietsov4162]

@@GCFungus What about ranches in summ as second critter tutorial?

[@GCFungus]

@@illiakuznietsov4162 I covered the basics for ranching in the critters tutorial bite. That went through the mechanics for making a stable room and the basic considerations. Beyond that it's basically impossible to come up with a "generic" ranch, because every critter has individual needs so it needs to be tailored to the critter.

[@illiakuznietsov4162]

@@GCFungus Then what about basics like preventing criters to move far away from grooming station and using liquid locks for some of them. And just basic stables for criters, that have them (just short showcase how they look like)

[@joeblack4436]

The very best way to make sure food does not spoil is to get the dupes to eat it. This is easy by growing just enough. Storing the produce in a fridge in the kitchen. Then storing the cooked food in a fridge that is well located and limited to a reasonable amount of food compared to what the dupes need daily and the growth time of food. I even disable my kitchen buildings (and early game the bristle berry farm lights too) when the fridge is full (green signal through a NOT gate). The cook(s) can use the rest of the day to other things. Or pick their noses if they want to. Also helps to convey food from kitchen to great hall. Sweep food into fridge there from chute and when dupes drop partly eaten food. This also clears up a load of errands. If the ingredients fridge is filling up, then you're producing too much food.

[@GCFungus]

That is possible, but I would consider that a high risk strategy. If something goes wrong with your food production system at any point, then you'll quickly run into starvation issues and can collapse your whole colony. Having a buffer is useful even if you don't want to infinitely store lots of excess.

[@joeblack4436]

@@GCFungus I hear you lol. But, don't kick it until you've tried it. Dupe time is worth more than Super Coolant imho. A cook and a farmer with a lot of spare time can do some crazy useful things. And, there's a lot of upstream savings which are priceless. For me it's usually the difference between being stressed and relaxing early game without having to do silly things like grow meal lice. I do have a bit of buffer. Say with 6 dupes I'll have 20 BB, when only 18 is needed. And I keep Sweetles on them for a tad more. I've never even run out of bristle blossom seeds for the spice grinder that I can recall. And it is primarily an early game strategy, but I keep the system mostly intact through all of the later game, though I have my dupes eating better things.

[@James2210]

What about curried beans? The Hot Stuff effect gives big buffs to athletica and strength

[@GCFungus]

This video was made before delecta voles were added, but luckily shove voles will be covered in an upcoming Critter Tutorial Bite. Although curried beans are interesting, making them is just non-sensical when you look at the numbers. I'll cover everything in that video.

[@lokinakor1]

I realized that mushrooms were using up my slime that I needed for oxygen production so now I avoid cultivating them entirely.

[@Tamizushi]

Omelettes from pips and pacus may be worth since you get more immediate calories this way than from their dead bodies. In the case of pacus it may seam more dubious since pacus can easily be starvation ranched, but early in the game it can be a good idea to mix both. Basically, you can get into pacu ranching really early in the game, you can crack only enough eggs to feed your dupes and sent all the excess to your starvation ranch. Later on, it may still be worth it to crack gulp fish eggs, unless you want to have a separate starvation ranch for them, as the heat from regular and tropical pacus will kill gulp fish before they reproduce.

[@mtado4933]

Omlettes are better if u only have access to pips, pips only drop 1600 cals worth of meat, but an omlette could be made for 1800 cals, also it’s way way less hassle, just crack the egg instead of setting up a drowning area, in the end bbq still gives more cals because it adds 800 cals so two pips on bbq is 4000 cals while two pips on eggs are 3600 cals, but still i felt like making an argument for omelettes anyways :)

[@pedrolmlkzk]

No need to break them, just set up a storage bin for them

[@VadimBolshakov]

Interesting observation. I will try to setup pip ranch in my next game

[@rossglenn7600]

Was Mushroom Quiche added to the game after this video was made?

[@GCFungus]

Yes, it was added in the Song of the Moo update, August 2023. There are definitely a number of new food items that need updating for this video, but I suspect Klei will also keep adding them so it's difficult to keep up.

[@rossglenn7600]

@@GCFungus Your thoughts on it? I think it's the best +5 food due to the relatively low effort needed to produce it (waterweed being miles easier to farm than sleet wheat) and the higher kcal value.

[@GCFungus]

@@rossglenn7600 I think it's definitely one of the best ones, although pepper bread is generally easier as it can be solely farmed, especially wild. With the egg requirement for quiche, you do need ranching.

[@jazzochannel]

i have almost 3000 hours in game, but i need to watch this anyway. i'm such an idiot!

[@rachelf6745]

dont worry, 5k here and im constantly referring back to these videos and hoping i remember the changes game updates have caused lol

[@jazzochannel]

So... i was looking for an easy option to order takeaway with Lieferando using the Party Line Phone. Can we make that happens?

[@GCFungus]

I'm not sure they deliver to post-apocalyptic asteroids in space!

[@galhorblack795]

a perfect tutorial thx u.

[@michaelsotomayor5001]

Can this be a new video with updated foods? :D please

[@fooltheroyal8691]

Wouldn't crude oil be nearly as good as petroleum for cooling?

[@GCFungus]

Yes, the freezing point for petroleum is about 20 degrees lower, and the SHC is marginally better. But yes for food cooling either would be suitable.

[@adiprasetio2647]

Could you share the design for the deep freeze please

[@GCFungus]

I'm hoping I showed enough in the video, and the cooling loop was covered in the tutorial bite. If you need any further help then I'd welcome you to the discord and myself and the community can help advise: discord.gg/bnqYAUTMmn

[@jsephhd]

wait, you went through most food options but all of them you said you don't tend to make them. What do you tend to make, whats the best food option?

[@GCFungus]

Essentially the ones that I focused on are the ones I prefer. Early on I would go for mealwood, then transition to wild sleet wheat for the mid game (bristle blossoms are also perfectly good as a sustainable source). I also tend to use hatches for early meat, particularly doing all achievement runs. Then I later transition these into shove voles or slicksters for meat (I love using oil), and adding in lots of wild farming for anything else I need - either berry sludge or maybe frost burgers.

[@jsephhd]

im on a GCFungus tutorial bite marathon haha

[@r1nnscribbles_]

idk if im just dumb or its a bug but i have food stored in fridges usually but for some reason my dupes cant find it? i keep getting "unreachable food" notifs and it made me lose 5 dupes to starvation. its making me really mad😭

[@hanvelsing]

If you haven't found the issue yet: that commonly happens when one or more dupes are stuck somewhere and can't physically reach the fridge. Check the "navigation" Option when selecting a dupe to see where they can't reach. Alternatively, it might be cause you disallowed all available food types in the Consumables tab, but I'd say that's less likely.

[@r1nnscribbles_]

@hanvelsing my other dupes can access it but some couldnt. i dont really mess with the consumables so thats clear i think. i made a new colony and so far, i havent gotten that problem again. im worried that its going to happen again tho but i'll try to keep that in mind. thanks!

[@destwong]

Hmm for infinite food storage u don't need to heat up the room if u make a metal tiles below the food . Just make sure it is in a vacuum then it will not cool the surrounding room .

[@GCFungus]

It's generally more difficult to keep food deep frozen in a vacuum, because then the food itself has to be below -18 degrees. If you have gas behind it, then the temperature of the gas determines whether the food is frozen or not.

[@destwong]

@@GCFungus yes it is harder but I try both versions. It does work even in work but u need to set the temperature lower because of the low heat conduction

[@Youmu_Konpaku_]

This made me hungry...

[@wildanwalidany7873]

critter tutorial soon?

[@GCFungus]

Yep, the critters main tutorial is written and will go intro production fairly soon!

[@pedrolmlkzk]

Pacu drop 1Kcal on death while their egg drops 2Kcal of omelette when broken so it is better if you don't care for the 4 points of morale

[@illiakuznietsov4162]

Btw. Frost burger is the cheapest of high quality food

[@ethanblack5642]

I comment to help statistics

[@APS_Inc]

RIP ONI Assistant

[@GCFungus]

I did hear it is coming back at some point, but in the meantime professor oakshell is available for the same food calculations.

[@Rake5k]

Dude, super helpful video, but the plosives are killing me. Use a high-pass filter and/or a pop-filter. It will instantly increase the audio quality by 9000%.

[@GCFungus]

I have long since done that, but when I recorded the first of these I had very little experience hence the low production value. Things are better now!

[@raptex206]

i want my russian box

[@steeneugenpoulsen8174]

That is not how priority works in ONI. You have Job Priory and storing in a box is a certain type of job. You could give the box priority 9 and it would make no difference if no dupes has the storage job at high enough priority. Item Priority ONLY matters if you have many of the same job type items and putting it at 8 isn't really a good idea, it is not a top job in a colony, you should be eating the food 99.999999% of the time before it spoils after all even left on the floor. MOVING stuff = Move, Use, is two operations where USE is a single operation, so moving stuff for the sake of moving it is super inefficient. You use IDLE dupes to move stuff, because they will move it to give added efficiency when the item need to be used, you don't make dupes that could be doing something worthwhile waste their time moving stuff.

[@andylem]

The more i watch the more stupid and unnecessary over complicated this game looks

[@augustinesim1672]

"can be harvested by dupes" KZbin cc : *tUbeS*