Painting 3D Printed Game Pieces for Axis and Allies 1914

[@skymarshal6787]

I picked Italian red too for the Red Baron ...great minds think alike

[@MrMaul80]

Nice job I'm dong the same with my minis for the other A&A games

[@monk8733]

looks great

[@warhammer9482]

Ow Chicago, hellos from north judson Indiana. I'm in crown point every day so not far away

[@moosecow883]

Nice! Right, not too far at all.

[@theplasticcommando7394]

Nice work! Just found your channel.

[@moosecow883]

Thank you! Glad to have ya aboard!

[@richieforce1119]

I am now your 29th subscriber

[@Trenacker]

How do you achieve even paint coats and avoid pebbling? Was it by switching from Rustoleum to Tamiya? Do you spray them all? (I heard you mention an airbrush.)

[@moosecow883]

I just used the spray paint versions. Back when I made 1/35th scale models, I did use an airbrush though. To avoid bubbles/pebbles (if that's what you mean) in the paint, my experience is to just avoid overdoing it. The less thick of a coat you apply, the less likely it will happen. It still happened on a few of my pieces but not the end of the world. Yes, All of them I sprayed to try and avoid paint brush strokes. I held them in place with folded painter's tape on cardboard sheets and then let them dry for an hour before touching them. Again you don't want to put it on too think because you might have to do touchups, which can also depend on the mold in general. Important to note, I had better luck with the rustoleum clear coat on the tamiya paints not causing any crazing, than I did the the rustoleum clear coats on the rustoleum paints. I'm not sure why, but need a better clear coat that will play nice with the rustoleum paints. You would think the same brands would play nice, but I guess not. Also the tamiya paints dry pretty quickly but the rustoleum paints should be left to dry for at least 2 days, til when they aren't tacky feeling anymore.

[@Trenacker]

So you do: (1) Rustoleum primer, (2) Tamiya paint, (3) Rustoleum clear coat?

[@moosecow883]

@@Trenacker With Tamiya paints: 1. Tamiya primer 2. Tamia paint 3. Rustoleum clear coat With Rustoleum paints: 1. Rustoleum Primer (stinks way more than tamiya) 2. Rustoleum Paint 3. Rustoleum clear coat. I know gijoe uses valspar in one of his videos, might try to switch to that or something else. Also, I generally paint 1 side of a piece a day, so its USUALLY a 6 day process. Maybe excessive but I constantly battle with Murphy's law with everything. Depending on temperature and humidity.

[@richieforce1119]

I thought the Schwere Gustav comes from Germany Ce n'est pas francais

[@moosecow883]

The Schwere Gustav is a German Railgun from the 30's.

[@moosecow883]

What I painted for France, was this. Germany gets Paris Guns. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_de_340_mod%C3%A8le_1912_%C3%A0_berceau

[@richieforce1119]

@@moosecow883 I know it is Deutsch, but still interesting to see a rail gun from Deutschland für die Franzosen

[@moosecow883]

@@richieforce1119 Apologies, I think there's a misunderstanding. We're talking about 2 different things. These are for WWI. France and Germany each had different railguns. Neither of these are the Schwere Gustav. France had the 'Canon de 340 modèle 1912 à berceau'. Germany had the 'Paris Gun'. In WW2, Germany did capture and use these French guns though.

[@richieforce1119]

@@moosecow883 Ahhhhhhh Now I understand. It looked like the Schwere Gustav and I thought it was, but actually isn't sorry for that. But I'll look into to watch more of your Videos. You are a cool KZbinr. Was a pleasure to speak with you

[@ezekielcarpenter-hyland850]

I’ve got 1914 in original shrink. Make me an offer.

[@moosecow883]

I've got 2 copies, so no need for me. However I have friends who do need it. Let me know what you're hoping for and I can pass that along.

[@richieforce1119]

Hey buddy, can I downlaod those 3d files? I just got my 3d printer, sooooooooooooooooo yeah

[@moosecow883]

Cool! I do not have the files. I got these from Historical Board Gaming and Shapeways.

[@richieforce1119]

@@moosecow883 hmmmmmmm where are they though

[@moosecow883]

@@richieforce1119 Links are in the description.

[@richieforce1119]

@@moosecow883 thx mate

[@ryanjrblair3526]

Are you interested in selling I would buy

[@moosecow883]

Thank you for the offer, but they are not for sale. I'm not really a fan of having to paint pieces, so not really interested in doing these pieces again. I do believe that Historical Board Gaming will have standard plastic pieces available once their 1914 global war is available, which they say looks like to be "spring", so hopefully soon. Madman and I are also working on a 1914 global axis and allies game that will be made available soon as well, so if interested, stay tuned to my channel for that official announcement.

[@ryanjrblair3526]

@@moosecow883 sweet

[@jackshelton6918]

This game was a disaster. Awful map, look atbthose fonts. The units are terrible. Seems like WotC was asleep at the wheel when this was made. It pales in comparison to 1940 Pacific & Europe, 1942 2nd Edition etc.

[@moosecow883]

I like the game but it certainly has its flaws and badly needed a second edition, especially with the last updated errata included. It was because of those flaws and my interest in WWI, that motivated Madman and I to try our own house rules and fix it. Madman and I are working on a global variation of this we've called Kings & Kaisers with a completely new global map, with influence from BBR, other maps and original ideas.