Panerai: The Making Of A Design Icon, Part 1

In part one of our three-part series in partnership with Panerai, we look at the design heritage of one of the most original designs in watchmaking.
For the full story go to: www.hodinkee.com/articles/pan...

[@golfpark94]

There is only one way to survive in the watch industry and that is to stay true to design and Panerai does this perfect.

[@TrendyStone]

I've had a Panerai 111 for about 12 years and many watches have come and gone in my collection during that time...but I still love my 111. Don't think I could ever sell it. It's just a cool watch. To the guy complaining about water resistance, mine is good to 300m and yes, I still take it into the ocean. I'm really interested in the new 42mm submersible 683 and think that will be my next addition..

[@justinboudreau3130]

Let me guess, they’re too big? To the people regurgitating the same old. They don’t care, they’re actually reducing sizes but Panerai makes big watches in cushion cases. They look good on any wrists. Stop with the bandwagoning. You’re the same people that trashed Tudor’s black bay for its height. When in reality it’s not much taller than other watches on the wrist. Get off your couches and go try them on.

[@algorithm007ify]

Well said!!

[@golfbuddy1969]

About 10 years ago, when I first started into watches, I liked Panerai. But that interest has long faded. If you can get past the unbelievable prices, the last nail in the coffin was a dive watch with 50m water resistance.

[@golfbuddy1969]

...actually they are 30m water resistant. What a joke!

[@mikejones-dx8bx]

are you a diver?

[@golfbuddy1969]

mike jones no, but what does that have to do with it? A diving watch company, building a 30m water resistance watch? I don’t think that you can take a 30m watch into the shower, let alone a swimming pool or the ocean.

[@golfbuddy1969]

mike jones can I buy a pilot’s watch without being a pilot? Or how about a chronograph, without ever being on a track?

[@mikejones-dx8bx]

@@golfbuddy1969 What a deep shower you must have...of course you can shower with a 30m water certified watch. I'm willing to bet very few people that watched this video has ever dived even close to 30m/100ft.

[@norra124]

I am so happy I got a 372 in my small collection of watches. It's my daily driver, and it accompanies me wherever I go, whatever I do.

[@muriloninja]

PAM1393 guy here! I love this brand! So unique in a sea of complacency!

[@4120306]

I love how he wears that oversized Pam with his uncuffed shirt and blue pinstriped suit. Sprezzatura elegance. And a cool F you to those watch size snobs.

[@premtonbatku2878]

I got a notification for a new Panerai advertisement. Good trick guys ;)

[@DavidDatura]

Premton Batku indeed! That’s exactly what it is 🤑

[@cesarsaucedo5110]

Nice watches, I just need to inject my wrist with steroids so it can look good on me.

[@blakris9382]

02:28 but look, this girl has a panerai, so why not you?

[@elom44]

The Luminor Due comes in a 38mm, just about the only model that would fit me.

[@flipsgraf1335]

@@elom44 Panerei watches used to be on leather straps even when still used to dive.

[@flipsgraf1335]

Doesn't feel like a "true story" when you're trying to sell dive watches with 50 meters water resistance.

[@JTMarlin8]

Really? So the leather/crocodile straps weren't a dead giveaway that these watches aren't actually meant for diving anymore? You had to read the fine print on the dial to find that out? Okay just checking.

[@mikejones-dx8bx]

stop it, you're not a diver.

[@ngtilui]

Go buy a Casio

[@duenyaohsieh4856]

What’s wrong with a dress watch with the design language that made them famous in the first place.

[@costasmandylor1565]

I haven't seen a Panerai on someone's wrist in years.

[@Coconut7403]

At least no one who is not on TV

[@dingmingzou9866]

agreed, actually I saw one and I wonder if it was fake lol.

[@jigrodrigues]

I like them, but in a market of highly overpriced items (luxury watches), they are probably one of the most overpriced.

[@costasmandylor1565]

jigrodrigues They are also the easiest to replicate, hence why fake ones flooded the market years ago and people thought, why buy a real one when a fake is almost indistinguishable.

[@peterzwegat5380]

I saw a dealer at a AD wearing one!!

[@mrbud8524]

As a Rolex- Sports models collector l fallen in love the Panerai watch brand There History the simple look size - great time to buy a Panerai secound hand prices came down buy now before they go back up! I have Pam 372 47m case size and a Panerai 005 l loved them both!

[@funkydrops]

This video made Panerai look like they make beautiful watches. That wasn't easy

[@dingmingzou9866]

I like their design language, especially the Radiomir collection. But I believe Panerai is way over priced. The level of finishing of the watch does not justify their price tag, which is also the reason that they almost destroyed by those Chinese super clones. Buy Rolex instead.

[@Boon778]

Panerai watches look really outstanding good in my oppinion, but yes, these watches are probably the most overpriced ones on the market.

[@ianmedium]

Dingming Zou this is one brand where, as long as the dial is sterile I think I would rather buy a good homage at a couple of hundred bucks. In the flesh I have never found them to be worth the price they cost though I do like the style of some, especially the Ti and Matt steel versions.

[@Eric-le8wu]

you're right..there are no Chinese Rolex clones..oh wait...

[@dingmingzou9866]

Eric the point being Rolex’s workmanship and build quality is really hard to replicate. A genuine Rolex watch smile to you from feet away. Pay attention to their platinum bezel marking insert and white gold hand. A replica Panerai is too hard to distinguish even you look them side by side.

[@lettuce1305]

@@dingmingzou9866 lol look at the super reps these days mate, super reps of submariners and even daytona are almost indistinguishable, don't believe me? check out some videos on youtube. If you want a watch that can't be replicated buy a minute repeater for god's sake but oh wait, rolex doesn't have a minute repeater watch.

[@brucie6426]

0:55 reminds me of my Pop Swatch I had when I was a kid

[@ho335o]

the new OP logo reminds me of the dude perfect logo. cant unsee it

[@djdelarosa25]

I love Panerai watches. They're just too damn big.

[@brunoschoelkopf9174]

thats the point of the brand - big dive watches that can resist up to 30 meters^^

[@algorithm007ify]

Bruno Schoelkopf They have a 2500m WR watch..the 30m variant you talk about are dress watches from Panerai (i.e., the Due)..how many dress watches have 300m WR??? NONE.

[@lettuce1305]

They do make 38mm and 42mm watches.....

[@chris1ayy]

The CEO looks exactly like the person who would wear a Panerai, I guess they know their target audience 😂

[@2handstony935]

Cannot believe all the negative comments, yes Paneria are expensive watches but they are one brand amounts many. For me the love for Paneria began the day I actually tried on a watch, Radiomir 1940 45mm, this watch fit like a glove on my relatively small wrist i.e. 40mm Rolex fit. On my ever growing watch list but will definitely be adding a piece from this brand to my collection.

[@DanMc0H9]

Design something new and innovative and Paneral will have my interest.

[@d999ss]

Swanson Unfortunately Panerai doesn’t care about your interest

[@justinboudreau3130]

The whole point of this video was to tell you that they’re not going to do what you just asked.

[@JTMarlin8]

Like most watch brands, Panerai has a group of fiercely loyal customers as well as a much larger group of haters/detractors. You fall into the latter group, and thus it would be financial suicide for them to listen to your suggestions. Let's be real here, you have no interest in Panerai, so why bother pretending? FWIW, I won't buy one either, but that's not the point. I

[@duenyaohsieh4856]

Anyone could said the same thing to Rolex.

[@patricktutek7933]

Unless I missed it, I don’t recall seeing a model with a unidirectional bezel; didn’t the Royal Italian Navy have any SCUBA divers?

[@abcefg9830]

There are various models with rotating bezels + the brand has been making dive watches before (WW2 1936-1945) the conception of the contemporary dive watch (1950s) and thus their designs may not seem dive watches at first glance.

[@georgebuzea6879]

55 meters and 100 meters “dive” watch... at such depths you don’t need a unidirectional bezel! 😂 I’m only joking, obviously!

[@TrendyStone]

The submersible. It's the first thing that pops up when you go to their website.

[@peterzwegat5380]

is "0815" only a thing in german language?

[@brunoschoelkopf9174]

yes

[@Eric-le8wu]

Mine says 300 m. If you want a 300m wtr resistance Panerai buy one and stop whining about the 30m ones. No one dives that deep anyway.

[@rimrim4674]

BUT why you cheapen out the dial to become a PAINTED DIAL?

[@sharkamov]

Do _other_ Paneristi also have the Panerai screensavers on their PC's, or is it just me...? 😉

[@DazzyLee]

The CEO's Panerai looks too big for him. I remember everyone wearing a Panerai 10 years ago, because U-Boats and other oversized watches were trendy. I think it was a bad business decision to not scale the watches down for modern tastes. Because the crown guard is so large, I think a 38mm PAM would look as balanced as a 40mm Submariner. Tapered and thin watch straps would help too. I think the 5mm thick and non-tapered aftermarket straps on PAMs are ridiculous!

[@jagaro]

3: 42-second ad.

[@KyleDavisMusic]

That's huuuuuuuuuuge

[@frankvelez7667]

That's what she said!

[@petroskara6751]

top!

[@michaelschiappa7930]

It always bugged me that most panerais are on leather straps. Like the things we made in the first place to be taken in the water and now everyone rocks them on a phat leather. I feel like they should come on a strap that is able to submersed then the owner can sub out the strap if theyd like too.

[@TrendyStone]

Most come with both options. Mine came with a rubber dive strap and a leather one. It's quick / easy to change straps so when people are not swimming...they would obviously be inclined to use the leather option... Pretty simple really.

[@michaelschiappa7930]

Tolan Brown thanks for the response. I didn’t know they came with two types of straps. Do they have a system in place that makes it really easy to change them out?

[@lettuce1305]

@@michaelschiappa7930 panerai especially the luminor 1950 cases are some of the easiest watches on the market to change straps

[@randompanda2840]

there are so many replicas and homages of panerai out there it just ruins it for me, and the quality just isnt there for me, as well as resale ( which you will lose 50% off retail if you can even sell it )

[@PhilipWing]

Imitation is the highest form of flattery. When I see these pathetic ripoffs you mention it's clear to me that many people try to be something they aren't which is nothing new! Look at Rolex and all their homages, it shouldn't deter people from buying a Rolex, in fact, it's understandable everyone wants copy them (like with Panerai) since they are indeed special watches. You're right, resale isn't good considering the retail but that's even more of an argument to go second hand, that way you can get them for the actual "value". If you like the look, go for it! It's hard not to respect how different they are from everything else on the market.

[@ianmedium]

In truth a well made homage at a few hundred feel the same as one of these at several thousand. The company Panerai are now are nothing to do with the company that made the originals, it’s just a slick marketing brand so I have no qualms in saving thousands and getting a sterile dial homage as to me they have about the same real connection as Panerai now have with the originals.

[@salangchoi02]

I will give you 50% of retail and buy me a 233 minty, box and paper. I really mean.

[@lettuce1305]

People always single out panerai when in reality rolex and even iwc has its super replicas too, fake submariners are already indistinguishable from the genuine. And no, you dont lose 50% off retail for most stainless steel and bronze panerais, more like 20-30% which is pretty normal for a non-rolex

[@edeag3]

I appreciate that Hodinkee needs to make money but there isn't an ounce of authenticity to this video... of course Panerai didn't change their history, they would only be able to with the 55mm Panerai TimeTurner Ben Clymertech(TM) limited edition

[@McLaughter_]

42mm Rad for me please

[@pilotstyle123]

Panerai missed the memo that oversize watches become unwearable in 2005.

[@algorithm007ify]

For women and soy boys....yes

[@lettuce1305]

why are people still going on and on about the sizes when they have made 40mm watches and now also makes 42mm and even 38mm watches

[@algorithm007ify]

Larry B agreed...it’s pure irrationality ... Fanboys of certain brands love to make digs at brands that are not part of their “watch religion”, which changes based on what they are told is trendy.

[@HHIto]

#Romans in Switzerland, like when I worked w/ #SwissTiming, they’ve got the ‘chunky’ divers embedded in their DNA! Will they saw with the trends? Comments?

[@ngtilui]

To the haters who claims Panerai can only go 30 or 50m underwater, do you need to go to space if you wear the Omega space expedition watch? Or when your car speed meter shows 200kmh, do you need to be Lewis Hamilton to own that car? A 100 dollars Casio can go 100m. If you can't afford it, then dont buy.

[@raze94]

Outside of the die hard Panerai community the brand has been reduced to a meme. Why? Because of the insane price increases you were imposing while giving the customer less. For example your recent base models started using pop up case backs and spring bars instead of using screw down case backs and bars. What used to be a charming brand is now more of a fashion piece. I'm not making this up. Dont believe me? Check out the resale market of their watches. I still love their older base models like the 000, 001, and 005. Look to the watch community for advice they are what popularised your brand in the first place. Bring back the old formula. Simple decently priced pieces. Cut the Bs of limited editions and exotic material. Back to basics and for gods sake stop using those ridiculous pop up case backs!

[@panayiotiskyriacou5118]

i've been following their resale market for a couple of years now. They have never dropped under 3k euro..

[@lettuce1305]

Yes they aren't as popular as they used to be however the demand is still there, just check their second hand prices they are still not cheap and everytime it goes a bit below market price it gets snapped up quickly

[@anthonypipia6990]

Ignorant casual lol

[@mzamroni]

printed hour marks doesn't deserve such high price

[@HL-OOI]

388 is my choice..

[@DavidDatura]

Panerai is one of my favorite watch brands, but this is nothing more than a PR video. How much did they pay Hodinkee for this? Disgraceful!

[@kffighter2]

let's just say I am as interested in the brand as I was in 2008, and I somehow got past the design and everything about the watch still interest me. I still in all logical sense CANNOT buy one of these brand new and take a huge hit immediately after I walk out of the store.

[@ald4104]

Stop thinking about reselling, enjoy your watches, pass them to your child etc... invest in stock not in watches

[@kffighter2]

@@ald4104 that would be the case if you have an unlimited supply of money. What you are proposing is financially irresponsible, especially when the watches are $10k+

[@ald4104]

David in LA it is responsible to buy a 10000$ watch if you can’t really afford it ? With the cost of service every 3-4 years etc

[@kffighter2]

@@ald4104 regardless of whether you can afford it or not, you shouldn't be financially irresponsible. Just because you make more, it doesn't mean you should be ripped off.

[@i04pbull]

Summary: woman with perm says Panerai Design is timeless.

[@Chris-mh3vf]

Love the look just too big

[@jigrodrigues]

If you like the look, 42mm panerais are the ones who depreciate more. So maybe there are some nice ones for you, pre owned (if you dont want to spend all that money)

[@oshanefa]

I don't know why panerai so popular at America ... few times I went to their store at #rodeodrive were lookin at them , holding them . there's nothing to like , too simple - though unlike glashutte - elegant and tempting in simplicity - these are rather boring . when they came out in ceramic - I was like - yes this is the time to buy one - came to store - again nah ... just don't get it 🤦🏼‍♀️ instagram.com/1summergeorge/

[@Face_Meat]

Do not want.

[@MIAthe305]

But some of them are hardly water proof...

[@algorithm007ify]

Those are the dress watch variants...tell me, how many dress watches are 100m waterproof?

[@jonathanfong3033]

Did i win?

[@blakris9382]

yes

[@fabiomelero2635]

I would love to have one but my wrist is too small. I tried to buy the 40mm version on ebay but the dimensions of the 40mm are not proportional of the 44mm version. Both 40mm and 44mm have the same hight which makes the 40mm look weird. I'd rather keep buying the vintage watches with 37/38mm. Sadly, it looks like the watchmaking industry today is only for big guys.

[@davidr9972]

hodinkee its been going down hill lately

[@salangchoi02]

I am sorry but don’t see a good chance for P to survive.

[@algorithm007ify]

Funny cause their profits are up in 2018..read the Richemont annual report.

[@Tom-vy3cb]

Way too big for my wrist!

[@algorithm007ify]

They make a 38mm

[@lettuce1305]

they also make 42mm submersibles these days

[@smokeybear69]

Ohh dear Hodinkee. 😔

[@KVenturi]

I wish they make a 36mm luminor

[@lettuce1305]

too small for a luminor, smallest luminor i'd go for is 40mm

[@sylajarton7252]

d

[@ianmedium]

I quite like some of the models, sadly in the main it’s the likes of the CEO who wear them and they always look a bit slime ball, marketing and hedge fund types as this guy does. It’s funny, the first thing he says is it’s not about the marketing but this whole video really tells nothing other than some slick marketing advert which of course is what it is. Ah well, I was hoping it would be something interesting. Next time Get Jack to do it, that way we would have technical and history.

[@lettuce1305]

at the end of the day you don't really have to care about what other people think. I'm sure if you wear a rolex some people would think you're a poser or it's fake. If you wear a big shiny breitling some might think you're gaudy and trying to compensate for something. Even if you wear a $6k grand seiko some people might think you can't afford a nice swiss watch. see where im going.....

[@andivalentinus2912]

Not for me

[@brunoschoelkopf9174]

some older models with manual winding movements are super easy to fake...this is a shame

[@NathanielKainama]

One reason i never get into Panerai is due to the excessive size they offer along their lines. Give me a 38/39mm Panerai then ill gladly put it on my wrist till the day I die.

[@algorithm007ify]

They make 38mm watches..didn’t you know?

[@diabew]

Clocks on wrists :)

[@algorithm007ify]

They generally make men’s instrument/tool watches...not feminine girlie wrist watches...

[@blakris9382]

Panerai is the opposite of breitling lol

[@Oakleyworld]

What do you mean?

[@ngtilui]

Why? I have both..

[@secondopinion6654]

Italians making $$,$$$ dive watches that stop at 30 meters. But of course.

[@algorithm007ify]

The Luminor Due is a dress watch...Panerai never said it was a diver

[@secondopinion6654]

@@algorithm007ify Then they shouldn't have debuted it with their "Dive Into Time" exhibit.

[@algorithm007ify]

ROLEX SUBWAY if that is true, then I totally agree with that. It has nothing to do with diving, besides the borrowing of some design aesthetics from their real dive watches.

[@melchizedekpsj]

Nope. Not my cup of tea. Still remains overpriced.

[@user-xy5td4tj7u]

bullshiet....

[@mtbone4945]

Only for semi well to do huge people. Come on they are ridiculous

[@ElijsDima]

Hodunk

[@paulandsueroberts4121]

Most unattractive watches....

[@davidofglenbrook4487]

The title of this video is an oxymoron. Shame on you, Hodinkee.

[@eco8gator]

Dead brand...

[@BertrandTan]

Terrible video. It’s an ad, and I appreciate that hodinkee needs to make money, but golly don’t use the same design language as your other more serious videos. The video did nothing but make me dislike the brand (where I had some respect and curiousity about it before).