Part 2 - 1934 Ford Chassis #2 Fitting the engine and transmission

Episode 157 Cutting the input shaft a small amount was super easy and allowed the transmission to be bolted to the engine; another problem solved. Derek fitted the engine and transmission in order to make engine mounts installed.
Leaf spring kit purchased through Chassis Engineering
Bushings for the 4 bars purchased through Welders Series
Insulated pucks purchased on E-Bay
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Derek and the Camera Lady
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[@bearsstuff]

I get not wanting to modify the firewall. I bypassed a few cars because they had aftermarket firewalls and it wasn't the look I was going for. Great work and always and looking forward to the next ones.

[@alanmize5627]

really glad to see a yblock in the cars,

[@coldstreamrodshop]

More to come! Maybe a Lincoln Y block coming in a future project.

[@michaelhallas6450]

There’s always issues when you start mismatching parts that never came in that vehicle. Overall the cars are coming out nice and it’s nice to see Ford Y blocks being used .

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Yes you can't get frustrated when mixing parts. There's always a solution even if it isn't obvious right away. It's part of hot rodding. This same customer has some Lincoln Y blocks too so maybe one of those will come in a future job for him. He likes his old Ford's and I'm grateful he's asked me to work for him.

[@chrisrichards1339]

Great video Derrick. If it was easy anybody could do it eh?

[@BoxcarsGarage]

Great job! Always enjoy your videos!

[@jackpledger8118]

I would defiantly move the engine back and down as you originally had it. It would only require a small modification to the firewall toe board area and would make repairs to the water pump and removal of the oil pan much easer when the car is finished. Also, rear and lower engine placement will provide a much better center of gravity for the finished car.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

We're talking about that as an option. Drilling out the spot welds on the vertical section of the firewall and then move it back an inch. He'll make a decision next week. Hopefully we'll be able to share what the final call is next week, if not the following week.

[@sethpetersen9288]

Awesome job

[@messinger123]

Great video and cool project. I suggest grabbing a distributor w/cap and dropping it into the block to check firewall clearance. With the block in the current position I think you’re going to need to clearance firewall for it. (I’m currently fitting a y-block into a ‘29 on ‘32 rails myself). Keep up the good work!

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Yes absolutely we're going to need to put a scallop in the firewall for the distributor. If it stays where it's at the passenger side head clears but the distributor won't.

[@byronbassett7439]

Hi great work, someone makes a shorter water pump for a Y block which may help with your engine position.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Yes the owner is looking into it. He says he may have one. If so we will use it.

[@11290slk]

How about a remote oil filter kit, not a dry sump, to get it out of that location. I'm sure I have seen them before sometime / somewhere in the past. I had some Y-block fords, a 55 and a 57 in the late 50's and up to late 62 and I'm sure there was a kit for moving the oil filter. Maybe Speedway might have access. Never could get the rear main seals to stop leaking!!

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Hi yes that's an option we were considering as well, remote oil filter. I may go that way on my roadster to free up space for exhaust and steering. Yes I've been warned about rear main seals. Quite sure it's a rope seal in the Y block too!

[@11290slk]

@@coldstreamrodshop Originally some kind of asbestos impregnated rope but I think now the seal kits are a polymer seal instead of the rope seal. Easy install when building the engine but to fix the leaks later you have to loosen the main bearing caps to be able to slightly lower the crank to get the seals out / in properly.

[@messinger123]

Correct. There is a leak-free (if installed correctly) neoprene seal available now.

[@timferriss905]

Very nicely done. It’s a shame you have to go with a new rad and fan. But if it gets the engine of choice in the frame then that’s good. Is there not a modern spin on oil filter adapter ? Cheers Tim.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Yes this is an early Y block block we're using to setup the mounts. The actual engine he's going to use has a smaller and shorter oil filter so we're going to pickup some more space for exhaust clearance and for steering.

[@yobop6072]

What was the copper pilot bearing for throw out shaft?

[@coldstreamrodshop]

I didn't put one in yet. Do you mean the pilot bearing in the back of the crank?