PART 2 - WHICH IN-LINE FUEL FILTER? BMW F650 GS BUCKING AND STALLING NEW AIR SENSOR AND DIRTY FUEL

Any recommendations on which in line fuel filter would be best to install on my BMW F650GS?
I have discovered lots of little black bits in my petrol after syphoning some out. Over the next few weeks I will check the fuel system, inspect the hoses, replace the fuel injector, check the connections, remove and attempt to clean the new fuel filter regulator and remove the fuel pump for inspection. I am also looking in to installing an in line fuel filter once I am confident in the best one to purchase.
In this video I also fitted the new air sensor which has now cleared the air sensor malfunction fault on the diagnostic test.

[@joeybobbie1]

Hi from Texas, New Subscriber. Thanks for making this Video. I’m going to check out the rest of your Videos also. Great Job of Troubleshooting and Repairing all the problems yourself. Very impressed.👍👍❤️

[@wl660]

FYI - The multimeter, while set to Resistance - “1” is signifies Infinity (open circuit) - or too high a reading for the selected scale.

[@HaynesGarage]

Thanks, is there a better way of testing the air sensor components?

[@wl660]

@@HaynesGarage only if you have detailed info of the sensor. I would expect the sensor to be a basic resistance wire whose resistance varies with air temperature. As you got infinity reading on high scale ohmmeter - it would suggest it is open circuit (broken wire). On your new one, I recall you had a reading. If you stick the sensor in the fridge, or heat it up with a hair dryer, you will see the value change. But that’s just wasting your time - you found the defective part and have replaced it. An ECU will take an air sensor reading, and optimise the fuel/air mixture. But if it knows it’s open circuit, it will just use a default value and the engine won’t be running optimally. You may not even notice….the key thing is, imo, it shouldn’t stall for the open circuit air temperature failure mode. Manufacturers really look to avoid that, and would usually engage a limp home mode for (much more) critical failures. They save stalling for those failure modes which could damage the engine, as opposed to make it run a little rougher.

[@c.meyers2882]

You are a natural born scientist - love the experimentation. I have an auxiliary fuel filter # but can't put my hands on it at the moment. Re: dirty tank, could you remove the fuel pump unit and then clean the strainer? Then you could get your whole arm in the tank to clean it well. Just carefully tap the ring free with screwdriver....I've broken off those plastic tabs by accident.

[@HaynesGarage]

Thanks :) I've been reluctant to remove the fuel pump up until now as it is something like £300 to replace and I was worried that I could break something. I think you're right though; it seems like the most logical thing to do now. It will be interesting to check the condition of the pump and to see what is lurking around at the bottom of the fuel tank!

[@c.meyers2882]

@@HaynesGarage I understand your reluctance, but I think you'll have fun cleaning in there! I bet the pickup filter is a mess. The worst part are those single-use bmw hose clamps. PS - your garage looks like you've done a lot of nice upgrades in the past year - you should do a little tour sometime! :)

[@c.meyers2882]

@@HaynesGarage Hi Katy. I found the filter known to work with F650GS, fits under the rubber boot for the fuel pump, and is infinitely washable (lasts forever). It's expensive ($61)....but could help save regulators. Golan 70-312G-A "Designed and engineered for the aerospace industry, for rugged, high temperatures, and extreme filtration environments, made of pleated 304 stainless steel, 10 micron (.000392”), 1.000”(inch) Dia. Total of 4 square inches of effective filtration area, element provides a maximum flow of 6 gallons per minute simultaneously with no restriction. Element is washable, reusable indefinitely, cleaned easily with air or soluble rinse."

[@HaynesGarage]

@@c.meyers2882 thanks for looking in to this for me. I believe the Golan is one of the fuel filters that is mentioned on the f650 crossroadz site. Do you have one installed on your bike? Over here those particular ones cost £100, ouch! So I was hoping to hear from someone who has had one installed for a while to tell me it is a success before I spend too much money. The other option if to buy a cheaper disposable one which I can replace annually as part of my bikes service.

[@c.meyers2882]

@@HaynesGarage I have not installed yet on my bike but there's a Canadian fellow who has it on his and said he's never needed a new regulator. He seems to be an F650 lover/expert. Dumb question...but can I post links in comments here? If so, I'll send you the video where he shows the Golan on his bike.

[@nikoscosmos]

I can confirm that with a faulty battery the engine dies, but I managed to get home holding the rpm above 4000.

[@HaynesGarage]

Thanks Nick

[@HaynesGarage]

Thanks Nick. Is there a particular battery brand you would recommend? Which ones would you stay clear of? I bet that was an interesting journey home 😂

[@nikoscosmos]

@@HaynesGarage I have now fitted a maintenance free gel AGM battery. My previous standard battery boiled dry...my fault. I tried to recover it but to no avail. I bought this AGM in Greece, a Magneti Marelli. So far so good!

[@HaynesGarage]

@@nikoscosmos Excellent, thanks.

[@G58]

The issues you’re having have multiple causes. Some can be diagnosed and probably solved by basic first principles solutions. For instance, contaminated fuel means a contaminated fuel tank. That’s the first thing you need to do. Fuel filter regulator? What is that? Why is it necessary? The vast majority of these sensors are ONLY ‘necessary’ for regulatory purposes. My solution would be to Rip out all the electronic nonsense and fit a downdraft carb. All issues solved. No carburettor ever asked if it was a nice day for hanging the washing on the line. I can figure that out myself, and, after the correct jets have been fitted and all air leaks eliminated, and fuel is arriving in the float bowl, a choke solves the starting and cold running. Whenever I point out these empirical facts on a forum or comments section, I am bombarded with responses from people claiming that they have never had issues with their EFI systems. The BMW F650 is not even one of the most complex examples, yet it’s necessary to replace air, fuel, temperature sensors - just to make it work! This is just ridiculous. It’s the boiling frogs principle in a microcosm. In a few years this bike will be parted out on the floor of a breaker’s warehouse and on offer for more than the sum of its parts (plus postage) on eBay. And that’s the real tragedy. Good luck with your experiments. I hope you can fix it soon. Vicarious frustration rant ends…! 👀🧐😎😜🙈 Peace

[@nikoscosmos]

The sensors are necessary for correct functioning of the engine management system....yes the engine management system controls emissions which are " regulatory " in part but have advantages for engine efficiency and cold running etc.

[@HaynesGarage]

😂 You do have some very fair points there. It is a shame that more modern bikes seem to have over- complicated electrical systems that I will probably never fully understand. However, I'm too attached to my motorbike to trade her in for something simpler. She's done me so proud on my travels that the idea of her being parted out on the floor of a breakers warehouse makes me sad 😪, this is probably why I keep spending so much time trying to resolve the issue. She did around 100,000 miles before this stalling issue started at high speed. If I'm not successfull in fixing her then I will break her myself so I can learn whilst doing it, and keep the engine for a coffee table or something 🤪

[@G58]

@@HaynesGarage Thank you. I fully understand why you’re attached to the bike. 100K is impressive. But the issues have to be associated with the electronics somehow. My carb suggestion was serious. Have you heard of SmartCarbs? Not sure if there is space to fit one on your bike, but as I may have told you a few weeks ago, I’m designing a CCM 604 framed lightweight adventure bike with a 650 Dakar engine. The SmartCarb is my favourite choice. Not cheap, but more practical than a flat slide, and better than a basic Mikuni. Though basic Mikunis are fine. Is there a big enough downdraft for a straight replacement for the EFI? I hope you can solve the issues one way or another. Ride safe.

[@G58]

@@nikoscosmos I’m fully aware what they’re for. But I’m also fully aware of the TRUE origins of the emissions legislation that eventually made it impossible for all motorcycle manufacturers to fit carburettors to bikes - even 125s! For instance, do you know the origin of the term ‘carbon footprint’? The alleged climate emergency is 100% manufactured, and demonstrably the biggest scam perpetuated on humanity - since fractional reserve banking and the Federal Reserve Act. If you believe that is wrong and just a ‘conspiracy theory’, imagine that the alleged problem was a tank containing 100 gallons of water, and a child was drowning in the tank. Could you save the child by removing a small percentage of the top 3 gallons? That is what the climate lobby pretends is the solution to too much of the element necessary for photosynthesis. The irony is that a child in its first biology class could figure that out. Yet billions of adults accept the official narratives, and officials listen to a child who’s being paid by bankers…!

[@HaynesGarage]

@@G58 I’m definitely not as clued up with mechanics as you may think I am 😂I will Google the smartcarb to try and get a better understanding as to how it works. Would you mind explaining what you mean by a flat side please, and is Mikuni a manufacturer? What is the downdraft? How do I test this? Yes, I remember, how is the CCM/Dakar engine build going? Do you have any videos?

[@Sertao2013]

Isn't there 2 fuel filter in the tank that filters the gas before it gets to the fuel filter regulator ? One at the top of the tank where you fill it up with gas and one at the bottom on the fuel pump ? If you have black parts in the fuel filter regulator then that is coming from the inside of the rubber fuel hoses that are between the tank and the fuel filter regulator . I don't know the year of your bike but it might be time to change all your rubber fuel hoses . Watch this video it shows the filter sock where you put the gas in the tank . kzbin.info/www/bejne/gauQoYhsdsR_maM

[@HaynesGarage]

Hi Steve. Thanks for the advice. I have removed the strainer and replaced it and cleaned out the tank. Good point about the rubber hoses though. The in line fuel filter is more of an experiment. I may end up removing it later in the year and cut it open to see what it has collected. I have already bought a new fuel hose to install when I do this. I am now thinking that the fuel injector may have been causing the stalling as I was getting the fuel injection malfunction code on the diagnostic tool, and that fly inside can’t have been doing it any good. :P

[@Sertao2013]

I think adding the inline filter just before the filter/regulator is a great idea . It will make it last a lot longer for sure . Will you make a video on how you clean out the injectors. Watch this video . He makes a cleaning device with hoses . kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqPOYaeBqc6Jn8U