Part 3 - How to Repair Screw Holes in a Fiberglass Boat.

[@richardskingdom]

Nicely produced, crystal clear explanations, no extra talking - just the subject matter. Very well done :)

[@NormanGooch]

Thanks for watching I appreciate your comments

[@GreatNo01]

Ditto

[@bubblebass3002]

Great series! Very detailed and straight to the point, a big help with my new to me boat with tons of old screw holes from accessories

[@NormanGooch]

I'm happy that the video will assist you with your boat project. Thank you for watching my video! Norman

[@kdenebeim]

I’m pretty stoked. I followed every step up to Step 3 without a hitch. Filling in holes from stanchions on my sailboat and everything works perfectly. Thanks Norm, another great video.

[@NormanGooch]

That is awesome! Thanks so much for watching my videos. Norman

[@Blueladderpainting]

If you mix the 405 in the resin Before you mix the hardener, you will have more time before it sets off. You can actually mix separate tubs of it that way, and when you need to use it, just mix in your MEKP.

[@NormanGooch]

Thanks for sharing your information. I appreciate you watching my video! Norman

[@jamesburton5242]

I have watched all your videos and I have 6 1/4" screw holes below water line that was used for a replaced depth finder. I purchased the West System Fiberglass Boat Repair Kit you used in your videos. As I was following your video instructions and reading instruction that came with West System Kit for "Repair holes in Non-critical Areas", I realized that process is for screw holes above water line. I understood that was the process you used in your videos. I called West System Tech Support and the gentleman told me "I must use a piece of fiberglass provided for below water line or the patch would leak. Do you have a video on repairing screw holes below water line using fiberglass in the hole?

[@NormanGooch]

Sorry, I didn't make a separate video tutorial for fixing the screw holes below the waterline. However, it's a simple task to perform. The West Systems repair kit contains instructions on how to cut the fiberglass and place it in layers to cover the hole. This process involves using larger to smaller fiberglass pieces in a series of layers. It's crucial to follow all the steps in the instructions, and by doing so, you can effortlessly repair your screw holes. Thanks for watching my video Norman

[@derpimpo3]

I drilled holes vertically thru my hull of my fiberglass boat when I was putting treated wood under that battery boxes. Would I be able to thicken the mixture more with the white filler stuff to make it stay easier so it won't just leak out of the hole even before I get tape to it?

[@NormanGooch]

I need additional information before I can give you an answer. What size are the holes? Do the holes go all the way through the hull? Can you access both ends of the holes? Thanks, Norman

[@derpimpo3]

@@NormanGooch the holes are smaller than the ones you fix in the video but they do go all the way thru the hull. I will only be able to access the hole from underneath now that I have put the treated wood under my battery boxes already. Also thanks for your reply and help!

[@NormanGooch]

Jake, When you add epoxy resin filler or thickener, it can affect the pot life or working time of the epoxy. Epoxy fillers increase the volume of material, shortening the working time of the epoxy, and adding to the heat-releasing reaction. The more filler added, the less time you will have to complete the repair job., you will have to work quickly to make sure the epoxy cures properly and fills the void inside the holes. Prepare all your materials and have everything ready to use before you begin. Step 1: Prepare the holes as instructed in the video. Step 2: Use a piece of stiff wire, insert into the hole and mark even with the surface of the boat. Use a tape measure or ruler and measure the depth of the hole from the mark on the wire. Step 3: Push a small piece of paper towel down into the bottom of the hole. You will need a small diameter plastic straw that will fit inside the hole to about 1/8” from the bottom of the hole. Step 4: Place a piece of tape over the hole. Step 5: Cut a small slit in the tape directly over the hole just large enough to insert the straw. Make sure the tape is sealed around all sides. Step 6: Follow the same epoxy resin mixing instructions shown in the video but add additional 406 adhesive filler until you get a “mayonnaise” consistency. Step 7: Load the thickened mixture into a syringe. Trim the syringe tip to allow the epoxy to flow easily. Place the straw over the tip of the syringe. Step 8: Insert the straw through the tape until you reach 1/8” from the bottom of the hole. Inject the thickened mixture into the hole. Hold the position of the straw for about 30 seconds. Move the straw out another 1/8 of an inch, and inject again. Hold the position for about 30 seconds. If needed mix additional epoxy and continue injecting every 1/8 of inch and holding the position for 30 seconds until the hole is full. Step 9: Remove the straw and immediately place additional tape over the existing tape and make sure it is sealed all around the tape edges. (Use more tape to seal as needed) Step 10: Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours. Step 11: Follow the instructions in video on how to apply gelcoat to the repaired areas. I hope this helps Thanks, Norman

[@stuartmenziesfarrant]

So what’s gel coat?

[@NormanGooch]

Gelcoat is a resin-based polymer layer applied to the exterior of a boat. This polymer can be epoxy or polyester-based, giving the boat a smooth, shiny finish. In addition to providing a glossy appearance, gelcoat forms a waterproof barrier that reduces UV damage and hydrolysis (a chemical breakdown due to water exposure). Gelcoat is crucial for maintaining the long-term structural integrity of your boat. Thanks for watching my video! Norman

[@alstewart5870]

Appreciate you. Got a hole in my box truck cab fender...1"x1". I still have the broken piece/pluf that was made Can I use this to apply to the broken plug, or is it best to fill from scratch with fiberglass cloth. I want to donit easy (which your DIY is) but I want to do it right. Thanks

[@NormanGooch]

Al, It would be best to use fiberglass cloth and fill the hole in layers. Let each layer reach the gel stage before adding the next layer, cover the hole, and let cure for 24 hours before completing the final finish. I hope this helps, thanks for watching my video. Norman

[@alstewart5870]

@@NormanGooch THANK YOU! I take it, the gel stage, is the mixed resin/hardener before it hardens, correct? Also, would my final coat be the gel coat you're using? Thanks again!

[@NormanGooch]

Al, Epoxy goes through three stages during the curing process, starting when you mix epoxy hardeners and epoxy resin. When you fill the hole in layers, wait for each layer to gel before adding the next layer. You must add layers before the epoxy reaches the final cure stage. Below is a short recap of the epoxy stages 1: Liquid-Epoxy’s open time - The epoxy is in a liquid state. The hardener and resin are mixed to kick-start a chemistry reaction during this stage. The mixture will remain liquid and workable during this first stage of curing. Stage 2: Gel- The epoxy mixture passes into the green stage when it begins to gel or “kick-off.” Because the epoxy mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it, so the surface may still be bonded to or recoated without special preparation. The time it takes to reach the gel stage will vary based on temperature, thickness, etc. You can tell when the epoxy reaches this stage because it will have a tacky gel consistency. Stage 3: Solid-Epoxy’s final cure. The epoxy’s chemical reaction is complete. The mixture has cured to a solid state and can be dry sanded and shaped. Once the epoxy reaches this stage a new layer of epoxy will no longer chemically link to it. I have not used Gelcoat on trucks or auto body panels. I do not know how it would work. I have repaired cracks and holes using Bondo fiberglass repair kits but did not finish the final coat. I assume the repaired areas were painted to match the vehicle color. I hope this helps Thanks, Norman

[@allamericanhunters7982]

I have a stripped out screw hole in my boat. After the epoxy is dry could I drill into it?

[@NormanGooch]

Follow these instructions to fix the stripped screw. 1. Remove the existing screw. 2. Clean dirt, old sealants, and other materials from the fastener hole. 3. Drill an oversized hole to expose uncontaminated deck material and increase the bonding area. 4. Drill the oversized hole only 3/4 of the depth of the original hole. 5. Allow the core material to dry thoroughly if wet. Use a heat gun or lamp to speed drying. (Do not attempt to fill the hole if moisture is present - the epoxy will not cure properly) 6. Mix the epoxy and hardener properly, then thicken the epoxy mixture in a cup with a 406 Adhesive filler to a non-sagging consistency. 7. Use a syringe and fill the hole with the epoxy mixture. Tape over the hole if on a vertical surface. 8. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours. 9. Drill a pilot hole using a drill bit smaller than the screw. 10. Apply a marine sealant to the screw threads. 11. Insert the screw and tighten it down using a hand screwdriver. (Do not use power drivers) 12. Seal around the screw head with a marine sealant. Thank you very much for watching my video. Norman

[@gregs7637]

Looking to do this on a few screw holes. I just spoke with Spectrum Color about a shipping issue. I happened to mentioned I was going to fill the holes with the West Marine epoxy then put their color matched patch product over it. . They say not to use epoxy resin. they say their product does not stick to epoxy. Is it really epoxy? Have you had any issues?

[@NormanGooch]

Greg, Gelcoat will bond well to a properly cured and prepared epoxy surface. However, if you do not do it right-Gelcoat will not cure over epoxy. The main reasons Gelcoat will not bond to epoxy: 1. Under cured epoxy. 2. Epoxy is not mixed at the correct ratio. 3. Amine Blush. 4. Surface not properly prepared 5. Working in humid environments There are many conflicting answers to the question: Will Gelcoat adhere to Epoxy Resin? You can find expert fiberglass boat repair craftsmen stating Gelcoat will not cure over epoxy resin and you will also find experts who say it will cure over epoxy resin. I have used epoxy resin to repair small holes and cracks in fiberglass boats for many years, using the West Systems 205 and 207 hardeners. It has been 4 years since I repaired the holes on the Carolina Skiff shown in the video. I haven’t had any issues with the Gelcoat adhering to the epoxy surface. The Gelcoat surface is still smooth and shines like new. I hope this helps with your question. Thanks, Norman

[@mmccown1]

I used the 410 fairing filler for my 1/2 diameter holes that are 1/2 thick through hull. Its an old transducer hole. Do I need to drill it back out and use the epoxy mixed with 406 filler?

[@NormanGooch]

410 fairing filler is not as strong as 406 filler. 410 is used to smooth out low spots on the fiberglass surface where you can sand smooth before applying gelcoat If you mixed the 410 to the correct consistency with epoxy and completely filled the hole from the back to front and it cured properly you should be OK. If you can check the hole, make sure the epoxy is binding all around the inside with no gaps visible. Thanks, Norman

[@FishLubber]

Thank you! I just took off 2 transducers and will fill the holes with the suggested kits. I also have multiple holes on the center console from old gimble mounts and front deck from old trolling motor foot controls. Can I just use gm 5200 or any 3m filler for these holes?

[@NormanGooch]

Yes, you can, however, you can also use the same kit and make it look new. I had several holes in the console from previously installed electronics on an old 1982 skiff I was working on. I sanded, filled the holes, applied gel coat and you can't tell there were any holes on the console at all. Thanks for watching my videos. Norman

[@kylegreen229]

Just used this west system kit and your video series to fill old screw holes where pitot tubes were mounted on my transom since I now have GPS speed. I'm getting ready to do the gel coat...however I have some air pockets noticeable where the epoxy setup against the tape. Should I mix up more epoxy resin, or should the gel coat application cover the air pocket/pin holes? Appreciate your time! Great video series.

[@NormanGooch]

Kyle, Usually if the pin holes are very small and the epoxy is 1/16 of an inch or less below the surface, the gel coat will cover and not show through. If the epoxy is even with the surface, sand inside the hole to 1/16 so the gel coat has space to bond over and around the hole. Thanks, Norman

[@jeffreyalsop2789]

im about to do a gel coat finish however the evercoat gel coat says do not apply over an epoxy as it will not stick well. I'm absolutely confuses

[@NormanGooch]

Jeffrey, It is easy to be confused when it comes to gelcoat and epoxy. Epoxy hardeners are a blend of amines. The amines from the epoxy can interfere with the polyester gelcoat and prevent it from setting. There have been so many conflicting answers to the question: Will gelcoat adhere to epoxy? The answer: Yes, it will. Gelcoat will bond to a properly cured and prepared epoxy surface. The main reasons gelcoat will not bond to epoxy: 1. Under cured epoxy. If gelcoat is applied to epoxy before it is fully cured, the contact with the non-reacted amines stops the curing process. 2. Epoxy not mixed at the correct ratio. Mix ratio is so important and if it's wrong your epoxy mix will not cure. Gelcoat will not adhere to un-cured epoxy. 3. Amine Blush. Amine blush is a surface effect resulting from the curing agent reacting with Carbon Dioxide in the air rather than the epoxy resin. The by-product of this reaction is a compound that forms on the surface of the curing resin and readily absorbs moisture from the air. Under high humidity conditions, it will cause white streaks to appear on the surface of the resin and the uncured laminate. 4. Surface not properly prepared. Must be textured, sanded, cleaned with water, cleaned with acetone, cleaned again with water. 5. Working in humid environments. Make sure the epoxy and the environment are as dry as possible. Humidity levels below 85% are recommended. Working with epoxy in a humid environment may cause inconsistent results due to moisture entering the mixture. It's recommended that you keep the temperature as close to 75 Degrees as possible. Never go under 75 Degrees. If the temperature is warmer the epoxy will react quicker which results in shorter mixing times and faster cure times. The epoxy can also burn if the temperatures are too hot during the mixing process. I have used epoxy to repair holes and cracks in fiberglass boats for many years, using West 205 and 207 hardeners. (207 has a stronger bond) and applied gelcoat to the repaired surface and so far, have not had any issues with the gelcoat adhering to the epoxy surface. Many repairs are over 10 years old, still no signs of separation on the repaired surface. I hope this helps with your question. Thanks, Norman

[@Whats_noah_up_to]

great videos! short sweet and to the point!

[@NormanGooch]

Thanks for viewing my video Norman

[@eduardomagana3158]

Can you just stop at the thickened epoxy step if your going to paint the bull afterwards? Or is the gel coat crucial ?

[@NormanGooch]

Gel coat is usually thicker than paint and is used to protect the underlying fiberglass components and also give a smooth shiny surface to the boat. I would not skip the gel coat application if the repair is located in a critical area. If you do decide to paint I would use an epoxy based paint. Thanks Norman

[@carsoncorle9369]

So you sand the epoxy to like a cavity you can fill with Gelcoat?

[@NormanGooch]

Yes, evenly about 1/16" around the hole. This will help eliminate show through during the sanding process. Thanks, Norman

[@Gnarles13]

Did the risen expand after the 24 hours after you covered it ? Looks like it did in the video

[@NormanGooch]

No there is no expansion, the resin flows towards the entry hole on a vertical surface until it begins to gel and thicken. The tape holds it back. The extra resin you see is a result of the flow. Thanks, for watching my videos Norman

[@Fish-de5yj]

Is it a good idea to cut out 2 quarter sized pieces of fiber from the kit and put one in the end of the hole since I can’t access it as well as one to patch the the outside like a bandaid?

[@NormanGooch]

If the hole goes all the way through you can use the fabric, just make sure it is tight enough to remain in place. Thanks for watching my video. Norman

[@luxuandperez976]

where can I get the adapter for sandpaper that you use?

[@NormanGooch]

Luxuand, This is a Gator Micro-Zip sanding block. You can buy it on Amazon along with replacement sandpaper. I have the link in the description below the video. Click the link: amzn.to/3lj6rOs Thanks for watching my video Norman

[@matthewgarnaut4029]

Hi mate, I appreciate the awesome video’s. How much of the west systems fibreglass kit did you have left? I have 21 small holes to fill. Wandering if I should order 2 kits. Thankyou :)

[@NormanGooch]

I used 1 kit plus 4 additional packets of epoxy/hardener mix. There was enough filler in one kit to complete the job. If your holes are smaller than 1/4” And less than 1.5 inches deep, you may get by with one kit. Thanks,