[part2] DDPAI Z40 dashcam with hardwire kit - unbox/install - Mazda CX-5 2018

[@keviny5048]

I saw you're using 2A fuse for the dashcam, is it ok to use 15A fuse for the dashcam ? So the fuse would be 20A (existing), and 15A (dashcam). Will it affect the electrical thing, because the total of fuse combined is now 35A on the fusetap?

[@unkertech]

That's not how the fuse tap works. Each of the fuse works for it's respective devices. 20A existing and 15A dashcam. You don't need 15A for dashcam as it has very low amp usage. Having it too high will not protect it from electrical surge that can potentially damage the dashcam. Eg, 10A surge that will damage the dashcam will not get protected since you're using 15A.

[@keviny5048]

Ah ok, my bad. Thanks for the information. By the way, my fusetap doesnt fit perfectly on the fuse socket of my cx5 (a little bit loose). Did you modify the fusetap so it can fit ?

[@unkertech]

@@keviny5048 Mine is also a bit loose. But it will not drop off easily.

[@tanphat5575]

Thank you for sharing!

[@pakaianzamannow8325]

why you don't use empty slot acc to SCR3/SCR4 and vcc to R outlet?

[@unkertech]

You can use those that if you want as long as it does not run major components like ECU or ignition and so on. SCR3/SCR4 are shown as Engine control system*. It might be unsafe to use it as tapping it might connect it to some engine system. Better safe by tapping into something you know is not important than something unknown.

[@pakaianzamannow8325]

Isn't it loose to use a jumper fuse like that, the problem is when I use it it can't get it in fully, because it's stuck in the fuse box. 

[@unkertech]

@@pakaianzamannow8325 Mine is tight enough that it will not come loose by itself. I prefer this method as it is easy to restore back to 100% original condition. If it come loose, no harm done as it's using non essential fuse. Just plug it back.

[@untranum7896]

I will try this and let you know how it went.