Passat CKRA 2L TDI Timing belt kit replacement

[@virtisconsole12]

Great job with getting everything lined up, you might be the first person I’ve seen or heard of that didn’t have to adjust the cam sprocket after the initial 2x turns of the crank. I used IDparts as well on my CJAA complete kit, I was very impressed with the parts, and I did the entire job with mount removal.. I used the metalnerd locks, I had a tough time to get cam lock P3359 tool in, it took 5 tries, I finally figured out my belt tensioner was too far to the right.. I adjusted belt and everything lined up. I used blue loctite on all the new fasteners as well since diesels tend to really vibrate.. I have 1000 mi on the Jetta since that job everything is perfect.. good parts and I think your video will help a lot

[@JoshsJettas]

The cam lock can be a tricky one, the tolerance is so tight you can be pretty well spot on and it still doesn’t go in. Yeah cam and pump timing were spot on tensioner can usually be tweaked a bit. I use the Idparts kit usually as well and have had good luck so far. I’ll usually add a dab of blue on any bolts getting replaced but any stretch bolts I put them in dry, I’ve been afraid of the loc tite messing with the torque spec and breaking bolts.

[@CaseyGore70]

Thank you so much. I feel empowered with confidence.

[@MrLuigji]

Best video I’ve seen, actually doing the job and great camera work! Thanks

[@JoshsJettas]

Thank you

[@MrLuigji]

@@JoshsJettas A friend of mine diesel mechanic ,has volunteered to do the timing belt kit w/ my help of course & we’re also putting in a brand new factory turbo He’s charging me 700 for everything !😎

[@ntgm20]

I'm surprised to not see you remove the engine mount. It gives you more room and allows replacement of the timing belt tensioner without removal of the studs. I just checked the service manual, and it is the way it states to do it, but still interesting to see. Also, for anyone reading, those under bed plastic storage containers make good coolant catchers.

[@JoshsJettas]

I’d seen some retailers selling the timing belt kits without the bolts as a “shortcut” install kit. I have some bad memories with mk4/mk5 engine mounts being a pain to remove and install so I decided to give it a shot. I plan on getting one of those containers, preferably with a lid for a spill free container.

[@7773mcelroy]

That's was spot on I gotta get mines done! What's that kit information from continental?

[@squirrel3200]

On that tensioner stud its easy to slip, use grippy pliers like Icon PPBSJ8 from Harbor Freight $20

[@JoshsJettas]

It is a bit of a pain, usually my knipex alligator pliers gets them

[@poellot]

I'm really not trusting torque specs today. My vw manual says the cam sprocket bolts are 20nm plus 45. Then it says the hpfp sprocket is just 20nm. The paper you showed in the video says 15 ftlbs plus 90. On both cam and pump. And that makes sense being the same size thread. Might juat have to go by feel.

[@poellot]

Damn. I'm tore all the way down and realized ecs tuning kit did not include the small idler pulley at the top. That sucks because just to change that out later I have to tear it down enough to pin the cam, pump and crank to loosen the belt.

[@JoshsJettas]

Leave the old top idler, assemble as normal when the new one comes in just remove the idler and push down on the belt to install the new one. I’ve done that on the older ALH engines and you should have enough slack

[@poellot]

I wonder how many young techs screwed up bad with such a critical typo in the dealership manual. Page 134 and 135 Rep. Gr.15 - Cylinder Head, Valvetrain. It clearly says for the cam sprocket bolts 20nm plus 45. Then for the fuel pump it just says 20nm. That is not even close to enough. That's just 15ftlbs I double and tripple checked. Decided to go 20nm plus 90 because that's what your paper as well as other online said. No way would only 15ftlbs and no torque turn hold them bolts. Glad I have the experience to stop and think about it because that is a very bad typo for a critical component.

[@poellot]

My 2014 had only 28,000 miles last fall when i got it. It was one that got bought back on the epa deal. But its old enough now that i am worried about that belt aging. I have 40,000 miles now. I know vw says 130,000 but i worry about the 3 years it sat without running taking its toll on the belt. Im am thinking the pulleys and tentioner would be fine till over 100,000 but i want to just change out the belt for now just for piece of mine. But then i start thinking about the water pump seal being rubber. So i may do a whole kit. I am a diesel truck mechanic so i am use to gears that last about 2 million miles. Not a belt that will definitely wipe out an interference engine.

[@JoshsJettas]

I did another Passat shortly after this one with 119k miles, original timing components. Water pump bearing failed and dumped all the coolant out, could of been a lot worse. I believe they say 7 years/130k miles whichever comes first, for the price I’d change it out

[@Awhite9514]

My camshaft seal needs replacing, I have all the tools and equipment for the belt/pump etc.. but I’m kinda nervous I’ll have a hard time getting the timing correct after I remove the belt pulley. Going to mark everything but still kinda sketchy.

[@JoshsJettas]

I’m going to assume the fixed hub is keyed to the cam, the same as the older PD Tdi’s. Your locking pin slips through the adjustable gear then the fixed hub so there’s no way of messing that up.

[@IndianDONRAJA]

Hello Josh, I'm impressed by your video's, very helpful. I was wondering if you would like to do my timing belt change? I have a coolant leak from the water pump, my car has 171000km on it and it is a 2013 passat 2.0 tdi engine type CKRA

[@JoshsJettas]

They always seem to fail early for some reason, im located in the kitchener area

[@IndianDONRAJA]

@@JoshsJettas hi Joshua, yeah they all fail earlier than expected. There is also a setellement action a aialble, unfortunately mine is not cover for one month. Yes they cover model from 2010 to 2012 then 2014 to 2015 I think. Can you please contact me by PM, I would like to get your precious help and support to get me car back in the road. Thank you again 🙏

[@calebcutler7439]

After I did this job car starts and idles but when put into gear and under any load it sputters and dies. The glow plug light is also constantly flashing . Any ideas on what I screwed up ?

[@JoshsJettas]

My guess is pump timing is off

[@calebcutler7439]

@@JoshsJettasthank you , one thing I noticed was when I clock the cam sprocket and the pump sprocket all the way to the right , when I tension the belt neither sprocket moves , I skipped a tooth on both of them to have the sprockets a little more centered in the slots. So I skipped a tooth and when I tensioned it they were both in the dead center of the slots on the cam and pump sprocket. I was able to get the cam lock back in and crank lock but the pump lock was slightly off , very very close but I couldn’t get it back in. I didn’t think it would be an issue any advice on getting the pump timing back in place once I get the belt off ?

[@JoshsJettas]

@calebcutler7439 you need to make sure the sprockets turn independently from the hubs, with your lock pins in you should be able to rotate the sprocket. I don’t care where the bolts end up in the slots as long as there’s zoom either way, what’s more important is the hub is pinned and the belt gets tightened with the sprockets loose.

[@calebcutler7439]

@@JoshsJettas thank you for your advice

[@Theee_Reaper]

Do you leave the lock tools in place when you're setting the tensioner?

[@JoshsJettas]

Lock tools in, pulleys loose, set tension, tighten pulleys then remove the lock tools. Rotate engine 2 revolutions then complete the torque turn procedure on all the pulley bolts if everything is in time.

[@82dParatrooper]

Josh watching your video for reference. In the middle of a timing belt change and I knocked my pin out of the HPFP. All other pins are in place for TDC except for the fuel pump pin. Now I cant get the HPFP to line back up for the pin hole. Belt is still on and I have stopped before I kill my CKRA. help.

[@JoshsJettas]

New belt or old belt? If old belt then just take the belt off and rotate the pulley as need be to pin it, then make the pump sprocket cantered on the slots for reassembly. If new belt I’ll assume the pump has spun to the end of the slot on the pulley, you should be able to keep those bolts loose and stick a pry bar in and twist the pump to get it lined up again.

[@82dParatrooper]

@@JoshsJettas old belt is still on. So I can just remove the old belt and line up the HPFP hole for the locking pin? being that it pulled over losing alignment I thought that it might be under tension and that I would be really f-d if I removed the belt from the HPFP pulley. And I wasnt sure how critical the TDC alignment was as it pertained to the HPFP.

[@JoshsJettas]

@@82dParatrooper yeah it’ll be fine to get the pump re-pinned afterwards it can be moved off of tdc fine (cam and crank not so much). it’ll have some tension on it so a small bar on the bolts should be able to get you one way or the other.

[@82dParatrooper]

@@JoshsJettas got it all done!! Your video really helped me along with my CKRA. Thanks again for the great content.

[@82dParatrooper]

Delete is next on my CKRA. Will be using your video to guide me.

[@GerardFlynn-q4x]

Hello Josh Just experienced water pump leaking antifreeze and am located 800 kms away from home. Do have a timing kit located at home. Would I be ok to travel this distance?

[@JoshsJettas]

Is it leaking severely or would you only need to throw 1-2L in? If it’s seeping I would drive it but if it’s coming out just as fast as your filling it id be afraid the bearings are about to lock up/fall out.

[@GerardFlynn-q4x]

leaking very little. I've added maybe a liter in the last couple of days. Keeping an eye on temperature and expansion tank. Likely was leaking prior but just thought it was condensation from A/C.

[@wacktom5739]

The bottom pulleys doesn’t want to come off after taking off the 4 bolts off and hitting it I’m not sure if taking off the big bolt in the middle

[@JoshsJettas]

It should walk off, you might need to hammer and pry a bit. Clean the pulley up and a touch of penetrating oil will help. That big bolt in the middle holds the crank timing gear on and that won’t come off while you have the tension on the timing belt yet.

[@wacktom5739]

@@JoshsJettas can’t thank you enough, you saved me many head scratches with this video, thanks to you car is back on the road

[@virtisconsole12]

Yeah my harmonic balancer was tight and didn’t want to come off after I removed the 4 M10 triple squares.. used PB blaster on the opening and lightly tapped with dead blow hammer and it came off.. I didn’t want to pry on it

[@fergusjones6843]

Just a quick comment. Why do you need to lock the crank? Done a ton of Japanese cars timing belts and never needed a crank lock ??

[@JoshsJettas]

With the cam and pump loose when you tension the belt there’s a possibility the crank could turn slightly throwing them out of time. And it’s quick/easy way of knowing your 100% TDC no trying to look at time marks from different angles trying to see if it’s lined up or not. The ALH which is an older tdi I just leave it in gear with no crank lock as the timing mark is on the flywheel and just keep an eye on it while tightening the pump/cam.

[@mellymal180]

Could this be the reason my 2008 Passat just killed on me while making a turn ? It never started again

[@JoshsJettas]

The belt can strip the teeth resulting in no start and engine damage, if it’s past due that’s a possibility

[@mellymal180]

@@JoshsJettas thx. I want to sell it as is now. How much would you think it should sell for? Still under 100,000 miles and no accidents. Good condition. Also it’s been sitting since 2018

[@raquelreyes2011]

My battery is not charging and keeps needing a jump. I am told I need to replace the water pump, but I may also have a heater core issue. Which of these could be messing with my battery? Also, while all this was happening, my gas gauge went up without me putting gas. And stayed that way. :(. I have a 2013 vw passat tdi.

[@JoshsJettas]

Neither should affect the battery, if its the original battery it might be time for a new one, a weak or dead battery can cause alot of gremlins

[@MAKPowderCoating]

Where did you put the picture of the instructions at 4:02?

[@JoshsJettas]

I would forgot to freeze the frame, here’s a google drive link to the pictures of the torque spec and instructions drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pCyjs9c8KZhY0Xnfe9-M9no7AvB7Q_E8

[@MAKPowderCoating]

@@JoshsJettas Fantastic! Thank you sir!

[@mk6tdi602]

how many km it had before you changed it? it's a 2013 passat?

[@JoshsJettas]

195k km ish if I remember correctly. Replacement interval is 130k miles/209k km, but that’s quite long, both I’ve done had bad water pumps so I recommended 160k-180k km for the next one.

[@andrewmeadors936]

Too bad the volume is almost inaudible.

[@d.c7863]

To much mess, after watching this brilliant video disaded to bring to garage, better leave for "professionals".