Penn Reels Battle II 4000 fishing reel take apart and service

[@peterenis8447]

You probably don't know that you've helped a couple of guys over here in norway - thanks a lot dude! Keep em coming 🙂

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Peter - thanks for the connection and best wishes. I am constantly amazed at the reach of social media. Glad to help - Dennis

[@deepiper6529]

Great video Dennis. I have a Penn Fierce II 3000 that I bought last year to take down to Gulf Shores, Alabama to fish with when we had our family reunion last summer. Caught lots of ladyfish, whiting, and pinfish with it.Performed like a champ. Rinsed it off with freshwater after each fishing session on the beach or from the state park pier. Feels as smooth as when I first took it out of the box.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Dee - the Fierce, Battle and Pursuit are all the same basic technology. The difference is in the type of drag, body parts and gear ratio. The mechanics are the same, so go ahead and follow this one to tune up the reel. Thanks for watching - Dennis

[@6atlantis]

Thanks! Saving this video for when I need to take my battle 2 apart.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I hope you use this soon. Don't wait for it to break. Use it before your season begins, or after it ends, but at least once a year! Thanks for viewing - Dennis

[@6atlantis]

2nd Chance Tackle I bought it in July and used it a for a week on vaca and again in September for 3 days. I tried to “keep the salt out” with hose. And I cleaned and oiled most of the moving parts but not the main gears etc... I need to buy some of Penns’ blue grease, open it up and see what it looks like.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

This video should help you. You can get the blue grease at Mysticparts.com. Let me know how you do! Thanks - Dennis

[@christopherjenkins2373]

I’ve started using two sizes of magnetic parts trays from Harbor Freight - small for small parts and larger with a retaining bumper for larger components. They are metal with an imbedded magnet in the bottom. They are very inexpensive and quite helpful. Another great video Dennis. I don’t have a Battle Reel but you know I really only use vintage reels.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Those trays are good, but I am a creature of habit, so the bottoms of milk jugs will suffice for now!

[@christopherjenkins2373]

2nd Chance Tackle I still use disposable containers especially when I need to soak parts in penetrating and cleaning solutions. Using those trays for that purpose would not be a good idea. I guess with my vision problems anything that helps me keep parts off the floor I have to try. Anyway I still use the plastic bottoms of containers and always will.

[@williamgreene3192]

Dennis, Many Thanks for another great video! I just bought a (new) Penn Battle II 5000 size after first watching your video, and then checking some reviews. As soon as I got the reel (I've yet to use it) I broke it down somewhat to check the lubrication -- I always do this with any new reel before use. The factory had done a good lube job, though I avoid ever taking this for granted. Checked out bail spring assembly -- factory lubed it well -- a little tricky putting the bail spring back in, but took my time & studied the parts -- worked out well without any forcing. As with the 4000 in your video, I've found old or poor lubrication of the main gear to be a prime suspect if the reel operation is sluggish or uneven.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the new reel. They are strong and steady performers. Best wishes - Please stay well - Dennis

[@TexasBrewGuy]

I noticed the thin washer on top of the outer anti reverse bearing when you disassembled it at the 7:30 mark). This position is also shown as correct in the diagram. When you reassembled it, you incorrectly placed the washer on top of the pinion bearing (at about the 8:53 minute mark). Will that cause issues?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Looks like another clip for the bloopers reel! The washer is a shield for the bearing. the placement should not cause an issue. Thanks for the note - Dennis

[@pathurimohan3046]

Fine video sir

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Thank you. Please stay tuned - Dennis

[@freddiegonz4113]

Very nice video and very clear explanation. If you get a chance and you have a video of Daiwa Eliminator 6500 or any model please upload it. Thanks again Dennis and good health to you always.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I don't have that one in my shop. I will add it to my request list and do one if/when I get one. Thanks for asking - Dennis

[@laspalmasmaya1612]

Awesome video, thanks so much!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Glad you liked it! Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis

[@PerryCee1]

Hi, I have a question about the bait runner feature. I just bought 2 new Penn Fierce 3 Live Liners. The bait runner feature works on both, but not the same per say. On the one, no matter what position the reel handle is in, you can turn on the bait runner and turn the handle a quarter turn and the bait runner clicks off and you’re on the main drag. The other reel, no matter where the handle is when you turn on the bait runner, you need to make 1 1/2 complete turns of the handle before the bait runner clicks off and your on the main drag. Can this be made the operate the same to disengage the bait runner with a quarter turn or less? The problem with the one that takes 11/2 revolutions is that I use them for carp fishing and it really helps to have the line pickup close to the rod as possible. With the one reel I can do this, but the other one no. Thx for any advice 👍

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I am thinking you have a worn trip or ridge on the main gear that intersects with it. The 1/4 turn is correct. I would open the reel and check bth pieces then replace the worn part to correct the issue - Dennis

[@deanspringsteen5473]

Love your videos. I am trying to do maintenance on my wife's Battle II 4000 but the rotor assembly seems to be stuck. I notice you were able to pull it off by jiggling it a little bit, but mine doesn't seem to want to come off. Any idea on why it may be stuck or tips to get it off?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Sometimes the pinion gear and rotor assembly get clogged with dirt or old grease. Spray the area around the shaft and rotor nut with a penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. That should loosen up any debris and make removal easier - Dennis

[@deanspringsteen5473]

@@2ndChanceTackle Thanks Dennis, that did the trick. I originally let it sit for just a little while and still couldn't get it off. I then let it sit overnight and was able to remove it. I was a little concerned because one I remove and inspected the gears I found that some of the teeth were missing. I thought that they may have lodged in and caused the rotor assemble to be stuck. I'm gonna order some new parts and get it back up and fishing!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Dean make sure you take everything out of the lower case and clean it out. Those missing teeth can hide under the crosswind gear and behind the others including the pinion gear. You need to get them out in order to save the reel from future damage when you install the new parts - Thanks for the follow up note - Dennis

[@tylersayz1]

Thanks for the video. Do you have any tips if the barring stack is stuck in the housing? I cant seem to get mine out. Thanks!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

The first things I normally do is to remove the rotor and then the screws and or collar plate that holds the bearing stack in the housing. Next I soak the stack with a penetrating oil like WD40 and then I reattach the rotor, without the hold down collar or screws. I then use the rotor to get a better grip and more leverage to pull up and free the stack - Dennis

[@bpekhoul]

Sir, is the maintenance, lubing and greasing, for the Slammer III 6500 reel similar to the one for the Battle II 4000? Your advise is greatly appreciated!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - it is similar. I did a video on the Slammer III 4500 that you can use to guide the service on your reel. You can watch it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5DXiayKeM2nq68 Thanks - Dennis

[@ruelmondugar9441]

hi mate, i have the penn battle 2 8000. I cleaned it up but the sound of the drag clicker is no longer there when I put it back. can you make a video of how to assemble it back properly? many thanks

[@2ndChanceTackle]

There is a click tongue and spring on the bottom side of the spool. Check to make sure they are connected. If they are, then it should intersect with the click ratchet on the spool. To set the click tongue, loosen the drag adjusted knob and turn the spool backwards, that should allow you to post the spool down without trapping the click mechanism. Try that and let me know if it solves your issue - Dennis

[@jackrussel1799]

Hello Dennis, Is it right that the smaller Penn Battle 2 reels (1000, 2000 and 2500) do not have a bearing lock spring under the spool? on the parts diagrams from Penn I only see the bearing lock spring from the 3000 and up format. I own the Penn Battle II 1000 with a spare spool but every time I change the spool I have to take the ball bearing out of the spool and put it in the other one because it stays in the spool when I take it off. greetings from the Netherlands, Stay healthy.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - you are correct. The larger models have the spring clip. The smaller ones on have a washer. Stay well and stay fishing! Dennis

[@Dr._Klopek]

Great video as always! What is the difference with the Penn grease and Cal’s? Can you use the Penn stuff on drag washers, or do they need the specially formulated stuff like Cals?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - you can use both interchangeably, but I prefer the Peen grease on moving parts and the Cal's on the drag washers. I am not a chemist and do not know the properties of each, but I do know that the Cal's grease is thicker. Thanks for asking - Dennis

[@bmariner7319]

Hi Dennis, I followed your video instructions and everything went well for my BTLII 4000. Except now that when I am turning the spool with the handle, I feel the vibration of the gears thru the handle compared to my other unserviced BTLII reels. How do I solve that vibration issue. Thank you.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

The vibration is usually caused by gear alignment. Check to make sure you have the shims that sit on the main gear posts in the right place. Check the schematic and pictures (if you took them) to see how the reel was initially set up. Shims are used to align the gears and take up and free play and variances during the initial manufacture - Dennis

[@bmariner7319]

​@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for you fast response. I will check the shims later today when I get home from work. Unfortunately, I did not take photos prior disassemble. I will keep you updated. I do have the schematic. Have a great day.

[@bmariner7319]

@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you Dennis. I couldn't wait until after work so I decided to take a crack at it before I go to work. At first I was looking for the shims and couldn't find them. Then I found them stuck pretty well to the ball bearing from the factory. I missed them when I assemble them and got the bearing upside down with the shims on top. I reinstalled the shim in its correction location according to the schematic and VOILA: SMOOTH! Thanks again and have a wonderful day!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Sounds like you are already having a wonderful day! Congratulations. Glad I could help - Dennis

[@gordonsuiter8204]

My btl 4000 has a nylon pinion bushing and yours does not. The pinion gear assembly doesn’t seem to be able to come out. Can you show me how to do this properly ?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

If the gear is stuck in the housing and you have removed the tie down collar then go ahead and put the rotor back on and attach the rotor nut. Use the rotor for additional leverage to putt it up and out. I don't have that reel in the shop or I would try to show how it is done. A spray of penetrating oil around the area may help ease it out as well - Dennis

[@rona.7058]

I have a few Penn reels, the Battle II 6000 and Conflict II 4000, on both I get a slight grinding when I press the handle in while reeling. Quick diagnosis?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Assuming that there is the appropriate grease and normal use (no dirt or contamination inside my guess is that the gears are wearing, which is normaL.. Adding a shim may help on the main gear shaft may help tighten it up - Dennis

[@jjkula1]

Great video. I found your video because my anti reverse stopped working. It works on some turns and then stops. I followed your video and put my reel back together and getting same results. Any ideas?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Jason - this sounds like a dirty or clogged anti-reverse clutch or sleeve. Did you have this assembly apart? If you did, make sure the sequence of parts on the pinion gear are in the proper order. If you did not pull the schematic, you can get it on the Mysticparts.com website. Check to make sure these pieces are clean and reinstall them. That should help fix the problem. If not, you may have a defective clutch assembly, but that is rare compared to basic dirt and grime - Dennis

[@jjkula1]

2nd Chance Tackle I had the assembly apart and also used the website you referenced. I’m going to pull it apart again and triple check. The assembly seems to work when pulled out, meaning the anti reverse functions. When it is all put together is fails. I appreciate the help.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Make sure the collar on top of the clutch is installed with the bowl facing up. It sounds like you are getting pressure on the assembly when you tighten down on the rotor. That may be causing a binding and failure as a result.

[@jjkula1]

@@2ndChanceTackle I'm sure I have the REV 0 because I have the two shims. I have it in the correct order and placement according to my pictures and the schematic from Mystic. The anti-reverse keeps slipping when assembled. I'm not sure what it is but it came from the factory like this since it was doing before I took it apart. Anything else I can look at or ideas?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

If everything checks out according to the schematic and you have been having this issue since it came from the factory, then my best guess is that the anti-reverse clutch is failing or was broken from the start. I would need to be replaced if that is the case. It's just a guess as I cannot test the reel, but that would be my best guess. Dennis

[@dougbryer3090]

Hello Dennis, was that my son's reel ? If it was , that was the one that was dunked in the Gulf of Mexico. I "think" we did give it a WD 40 bath and some lube from a local bait and tackle shop. He then has fished for Catfish at night on the muddy lake bank. That would explain the dirt. Can the Fierce reels be upgraded to a the HT 100 drag? Doug

[@2ndChanceTackle]

It was one of your reels Doug, but not the one that got soaked. I finished that one and sent you pictures. Both are ready to go fishing again - Dennis

[@MattJMT]

After Watching your video and following the steps... I have noticed a squeaky noise coming from the inside. Doesn’t seem to be the Handle. Please help thank you.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Hmmm. That is hard to say with having the reel in my hands. Sounds like something may be too tight. Did you put the shim washers back on the main gear? Sometimes folks install the shim washer inside the bearing case and not on the gear post. The causes noise. Otherwise, it is hard to guess without seeing and hearing what you are describing. - Dennis

[@MattJMT]

2nd Chance Tackle I believe i did. I will rewatch the video and start from square one. Will too much grease cause a squeaking?

[@LiveLinerFishing]

the rotor on my battle 2 4k is loose and wobbles, how do i fix this?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

THe rotor nut is most likely loose. Remove the spool and you will see the nut at the base of the ale shaft as it sits on top of the rotor. Get the right wrench and tighten the nut until you take the wobble out of it. If it is the cap nut, tight will be automatic as the sleeve will prevent over tightening - Dennis

[@LiveLinerFishing]

@@2ndChanceTackle thanks!

[@chuckdumas1023]

These are great videos but it seems you dont spend alot of time cleaning parts ? Mabe for the video but i would want them very clean and get the steel wool debris out of the drag area !

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Thanks Chuck. Most of these videos are done to show folks how to take the reel apart and do self service. These tend to run over 20 minutes, so you are correct, I do not spend a lot of time cleaning the parts. If the reel is bad - dried grease, sand, shellacking, etc, I will generally pause the video and do the clean up, which is not shown when I continue. As you are aware, dirt and debris are the enemy of fishing reels and other machines and you are correct, there should be a best effort made to get these as clean as possible during the service - Dennis

[@chuckdumas1023]

2nd Chance Tackle thanks Dennis i figured it was for the length of the video ! I think ive seen all your videos they are awesome very informative 🙏👍

[@freddiegonz4113]

What can we use to clean the parts aside from wiping or brushing? Thanks again

[@mschultz304]

I found it hard to follow when putting the reel back together. Your hands were in the way of the camera while you blew through the most intricate part of the operation in like 30 seconds. That part could have taken about 5 minutes

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I have been trying to do better with the camera angle. I am unsure which part of the service you need a clearer view of. Try this video as an alternative kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5S1lnRrlrSDm5I it also shows the servicing of that reel - Dennis