Perfect Coverstitching Over Seams

[@sbaumgartner9848]

Gail, I don't know anyone who knows more about using a cover stitch machine than you do. I would never think up all of the tricks you do. Much appreciated.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thank you-what a nice compliment! I love teaching and helping sewists get great results. Thanks for watching!

[@EileenBator]

I had heard of clipping the seam and using a hump jumper, but I didn't know about changing the stitch length. Good tip to add to my arsenal! Thanks!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Happy to help the cause and thanks for watching!

[@carolineprijs-wijnen4487]

Wonderful what a few tricks can do to give a hem a perfect look. Thank you for sharing those tricks.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad you like the technique and thanks for watching, Caroline!

[@sharonrimsza7960]

Thank you Gail. Perfect timing. I can send my Granddaughter to your channel. Then she can subscribe when she is ready to do this right.😉

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks Sharon and tell your granddaughter that she's welcome to ask questions.

[@maryjokruer6127]

Your tips always give that professional look everyone wants! Thanks!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks Mary Jo-that’s my hope for everyone. Thanks for watching!

[@janetwoodruff4466]

Wonderful to see you finish the cover stitch with the locking tool. I have been practicing and am getting it nailed! Thanks, again.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Janet, practice makes perfect! Let me know if you have any questions and thanks for watching!

[@janetwoodruff4466]

Actually this was not funny at the time, but it is now. I discovered that my left needle screw was missing. I crawled on the floor to see if I could find it…to no avail🙁. I asked my husband for his help, and as he dug around on the carpet, he found it. OMG! He got a thousand kisses!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@janetwoodruff4466 I’d say he’s a “keeper!” And he must have superb eyesight 🤩

[@melodicovington1667]

Thank you for the great video! Your teaching is easy to follow with wonderful results!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching, Melodi. Glad you found the video helpful.

[@jolenecaruso8948]

Again! Great tips that help us all be more successful ❤

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Jolene, helping sewists get great results is my goal. Thanks for watching!

[@sheliarittgers2795]

Great hack! Can’t wait to try it!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

HiSheila, let me know how it comes out and thanks for watching!

[@SueSewTall]

Thank you for the great tips! I just purchased an L890 and can't wait to put them into action.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Sue, Let me know how you like the L890. I love mine and if you need any help, let me know. I'll be happy to hear from you!

[@honeywell891]

WOW. Just saw this. Was looking over all your videos and boy do I learn a lot. You save me when I come to a small and large problem so many times. I still don’t have a coverstitch machine (just a plain serger), but I can still use this trick when in want a coverstitch look with 2 needles. Thanks again for making things “perfect”.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Fran, we all keep learning with every project. Glad you find these Tip Clips helpful!

[@kvanacoro]

Thank you for all your great information…looking forward to taking a class again at Pins & Needles in Mt Kisco…you are the Queen of the Serger

[@GailPatriceDesign]

I'm looking forward to seeing everyone at Pins & Needles too. thanks for watching and see you soon.

[@staceytodd4491]

Awesome!! Thanks so much!!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching, Stacey!

[@julsbendandi9374]

I did it! Yooooooohooo! Perfect seams! Thank you Gail! ❤❤❤❤

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hooray-glad you got great results! Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips.

[@carylwainscott9345]

I can't wait to try your tips and hope I get the great results you did ! Thank you Gail !

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Caryl, Great to hear from you. Let me know if you do get the same results. I bet you will and thanks for watching!

[@tarheel2325]

Thank you!!! I’ve tried my own remedies and nothing has worked as well. I’ll def try on my next project.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, Let me know how your next cover hem looks. I'll be anxious to hear from you and thanks for watching!

[@tarheel2325]

@@GailPatriceDesign I definitely will let you know. Thanks for so many great tips.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@tarheel2325 you’re welcome!

[@janicek6399]

Great tips

[@diannadann]

Great tips, thanks! I was told that the left needle was supposed to be on the single thickness of fabric--just a tad bit--so that the edge of the fabric would end up between the stitching lines of the coverstitch. The tunneling has always frustrated me and I'd end up taking it out and doing it as you say, with both needles on the double thickness. I don't really like the look of that, though. I did manage to get a great hem once with the edge caught between the stitching and no tunneling. But I have no idea how I managed it. :)

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Dianna, I know what you mean about having the raw edge peek out from the stitching. I was of the same mind for a long time. But having a perfect look on the public side is the main goal. I trim away as much excess as possibly to minimize the raw edge, but guess what? Once I’ve worn the garment, I never think twice about the hem again! And if expensive stores can sell T-shirts for $200+, I can live with it too.🤩 you might want to try the SSI Knit Stay Tape on lighter weight knit fabrics. You strike me as a perfectionist and would appreciate the difference. Thanks for watching!

[@diannadann]

@@GailPatriceDesign I will try the stay tape! Thanks. And yes, I've fought with perfectionism all my life. :)

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@diannadann I think women are harder on themselves for little imperfections that nobody else would ever notice. That must be the price we pay for improving our techniques.🤩

[@get2craft]

Thank you for the video ❤ could you please talk about difference between serger machine and coverstitch machines

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Sergers can be overlock only or combo overlock/coverstitch machines, Overlock utility stitches trim and finish seams. Coverstitching is the industry standard for hemming knit garment and won't overlock seams. Both modes can also create decorative stitches as well. There are so many utility and decorative stitches in each mode, it's impossible to go through all of them in this reply. Scroll through my Tip Clips and you'll see many in each mode. Thanks!

[@irmatorres6592]

Thank you for share that important tip.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You're welcome and thanks for watching, Irma!

[@kimt2au]

What a wonderful video. Thank you so much, you have addressed a problem I have had for so long. Thank you again.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Kim, so many sewists have had poor results when they coverstitched over vertical seams. Glad his technique will be helpful for you and thanks for watching!

[@esperansaloughran693]

Great video! Great tips too!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@esperansaloughran693 thanks Esperanza!

[@lindasmalley4718]

Excellent video!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching, Linda and let me know if you have questions. I'll be happy to help you.

[@esperansaloughran693]

Very beautifully done!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@esperansaloughran693 thanks-glad it was helpful Esperanza and thanks for watching!

[@dianawright8334]

Your such a genius❤

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Wow-Thanks for watching, Diana!

[@kimhandy1861]

That turned out beautiful! Thanks for sharing your expertise! Love that hump jumper. Does it work with the serger too?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Yes the hump jumper works very well with overlocking. I use it all the time when I’m finishing an outside edge on table runners, placemats, etc. it’s especially helpful when finishing those edges with 12-wt or 8-wt threads that add a lot of bulk. Getting “over the hump” with the hump jumper will give you a smooth start. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@rofuschetto6904]

Awesome! Thanks, Gail! I have a Bernina but it doesn’t have a cover stitch. However I use a double needle finish. I know these tips will help so much! I have a question. When I sew let’s say a blouse when would I serge the seems before I put it together to after? And if at all? How about arm holes down to side seems? Thanks so much for all your help, Roseann

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Ro, I would construct the blouse using either a 3-thread or 4-thread overlock stitch. On woven fabrics, I'd machine baste the sleeves to the armholes for a perfect finish. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@rofuschetto6904]

@@GailPatriceDesign thank you so much!

[@viddy8379]

Hi Gail, What did you say was the thread you used in Brand. I have the L850 but wish I got the L890. It is so quiet. I must get a hump jumper and that other tool to bring threads forward. What is SS tape? Thankyou and very clear.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@rofuschetto6904 you’re welcome!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

I don't remember mentioning a brand of thred but did say that I stitched in a contrasting color for the camera. Here is the link to SSI Knit Stay Tape: www.gailpatrice.com/product-page/more-than-extremely-fine-ssi-knit-stay-tape. thanks for watching!@@viddy8379

[@blakegriffin3372]

Thanks for the great video! What is the tool you used to get the thread from under the needles?? It looks much better than what I use now. Appreciate your videos!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Blake, The cover/chainstitch locking fork is super handy for pulling the threads from the needles. It's available in red or blue and here's a link: www.gailpatrice.com/product-page/cover-chainstitch-locking-fork. (PS: It's on sale right now.) Thanks for watching and happy holidays.

[@suebrown5500]

Hi Gail you are an inspiration! ❤ is there a supplier of your stay tapes in the U.K. please? Thank you xx

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Sue,I don’t know whether there is a UK supplier for the stay tapes. I’ll try to find out. Thanks!

[@PatriciaPreston-w3z]

Very interesting, I have tried the coverstitch a while ago and thought it was very good, but what you just taught is even better. I will be trying it. What exactly is the brand of stay that you like. I do have Sewskeys double sided and some of the others in this line. Also Steam a Seam etc. Thank you, Will be watching your other videos too.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Pat, Don't use Steam-a-Seam, it's too stiff and eliminates the flexibility of the hem. I like the SSI Knit Stay Tape. Here's a link: www.gailpatrice.com/product-page/more-than-extremely-fine-ssi-knit-stay-tape. The Double-sided Tape is better than Steam-A-Seam, but also diminishes flexibility. The SSI Tape isn't double-sided adhesive, but it's super nice for a beautiful hem. It gives body without bulk and just enough weight to make a garment hang nicely. Let me know if you have more questions and thanks for watching!

[@annej88]

Thank you! I'll have to try this next time I see the stitches bunching up. My usual problem with the cover stitch is the needle threads not quite being caught by the looper thread when I go over a seam, so when I'm done, it looks like an extra long stitch. I suspect that maybe I need to use a larger needle, but maybe a height compensation tool would correct this problem? Have you encountered this? How would you solved it?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Anne, Definitely use a height compensation tool. And lengthen the stitch just before you go over the hump. Then return it to the original length. Let me know if you need more help and thanks for watching!

[@mrmomo8213]

Thank you for this! I used all the tips and now my hem is better than ever before. Question: Do you find that the clear foot is prone to more skipped stitches than the metal foot? I am struggling with skipped stitches on my sweatshirt neck top stitching. I am using the clear foot on my Janome Coverpro 3000.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Use ELx 705 needles size 90/14. Check your threading and be sure the needles are fresh. The metal foot grips fabric better, but I don't think that's the problem. But it's worth testing. Let me know if the problem persists and we can brainstorm more ideas. Thanks!

[@mrmomo8213]

Thanks so much for your response! I feel like I'm hearing from a celebrity 😊. Should I not be using stretch needles? I had new Organ superstretch 90/14 needles in my coverstitich machine.@@GailPatriceDesign

[@mrmomo8213]

Did you see my question about stretch needles above? Many many thanks!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

For some reason I don't see your question about stretch needles. Can you ask it again? Thanks!@@mrmomo8213

[@mrmomo8213]

You had helped me with my "skipping stitches when top stitching around necklines on knit projects" question. You suggested that I use Elx 705 90/14 needles for my Jamone 3000 coverstitich machine. My reply was asking you to clarify whether or not I should use stretch needles. Thanks so much!@@GailPatriceDesign

[@zhenniwang6818]

Thank you! I took 1 lesson for my coverstitch machine when I first got it, and have been using it blindly since then with the techniques I learned years ago. Your video and techniques are very helpful! I'm not sure if you can answer this question, but sometimes when I lift my presser foot up (ie: to reset the tension on the garment before a seam, as in your video), I lose a stitch in the looper underneath which then creates a source for all the threads to pull out later! It might be a question of my machine needing a tune-up, but it seemed to be doing it even when I first got it. However, it seems less likely to happen when I have my needle in a certain position (just barely inserted into the fabric). Is this something you've experienced? Do you have recommendations about where in the cycle it's best to raise the presser foot? I have a Baybylock Coverstitch 2 by the way. Thank you and please keep the videos coming. Subscribed!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hello! You are less likely to skip a stitch in coverstitch mode if you stop with the needle down. This is a common problem when you want the fabric to "relax" and not bunch up under the presser foot. Also using ELx705 needles is recommended and definitely get your machine tuned up if it's due. It will keep your stitching smoother and maintain your machine. Please let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Thanks for watching and subscribing to Serger Tip Clips!

[@zhenniwang6818]

@@GailPatriceDesign Thank you, Gail!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@zhenniwang6818 You’re welcome. Also try to stitch at a moderate steady pace. It will also help.

[@j.a.maldonado4681]

Thank you. One question. On your machine cover stitch setting screen, when you show the 3.5 stitch length: where the red blue and purple boxes showing tension settings? I noticed the thread colors with numbers 4.5, 6 and 1.5?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, yes you're correct. The different color boxes on the top of the screen are the tension settings. The L890 will auto set tensions and you can also tweak them for various decorative techniques. Interestingly, I rarely touch the tension settings in cover/chainstitch mode, even when I use heavier weight decorative threads. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!

[@j.a.maldonado4681]

​@@GailPatriceDesign This video changed my frustrating experience with the cover stitch machine: so many hours of untangling jammed thread, replacing broken needles, and just rethreading endlessly. :( 1st attempt using your before & during methods: no broken needles, thread jams, or machine jams. Like your examples at the end though, the stitch path was slightly crooked over the seam hump. Rewatched the video, then added a missed step of raising & lowering the foot to let the fabric "settle in" and relax into place for the next attempt. Yes! Much better. Need to find a video on lining up the needles to stitch path when finishing a few stitches over the beginning stitch track. Do you think the wonder tape is the best, simplest way to keep the clipped (surged) seams folded correctly in the opposite direction? Can it be pinned?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@j.a.maldonado4681 hi, to align your last stitches with the first ones, a seam guide is helpful. If your brand doesn’t have one, Cover’s Stitch ‘n Stick works well. Also slow down and align the indicator ridges on the toe of the presser foot with the first stitches and just overlap one or two stitches. I wouldn’t use a pin to hold the seam allowance. It creates a hump and throws off the stitching lines. WonderTape or wash away fabric glue is best. If using glue, test on a scrap to be sure it doesn’t stain the fabric. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@txmeemo09]

Gail where do I get the hump jumping tool. The ones I can find on Amazon don't look like yours and don't specify that they work on a Bernina.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You can purchase the "height compensation tool" aka "hump jumper" from your local BERNINA dealer. As far as I know, BERNINA products are not sold on Amazon. Thanks for watching!

[@tamimcclaskey4684]

I’d like to know about the coverstich locking tool I think u called it

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Tami, the locking tool is a thin “fork”to grab the needle threads and pull them forward to snip. The snipped needle threads are then free to be pulled to the underside of the fabric and “lock” the last stitch. Cover/chainstitching can easily be undone if the last stitch isn’t “locked.” Let me know if you have more questions and thanks for watching!

[@tamimcclaskey4684]

@@GailPatriceDesign ok I thought it was performing a magical locking function 😂

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Wouldn't that be nice!.You gave me my chuckle for the day-thanks!@@tamimcclaskey4684

[@honeywell891]

Oh yes. What is a locking tool. You said this locked your stitch. Would that work on my sewing machine?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Fran, the locking fork works for the last cover or chainstitch. It’s not for a sewing machine stitch. Use either backstitch or a built-in locking stitch and thanks for watching!

[@marysews1]

i got curious about that "locking tool." It seems that I could make one by removing the thread from a teeth flosser.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Mary, that would probably work!