Periodic Maintenance Recommendations X1C, P1S, P1P and AMS

[@n3Cr0ManCeD]

Great video and thanks for sharing. One recommendation though. If using compressed air, use your finger to hold the fan stationary while blowing it out. It is entirely possible to damage the fan bearings by spinning it too fast.

[@Matt-dk3wl]

Not only that, but spinning the fan generates voltage which you don't want to feed into your printers circuitry. Many Video cards have died from people blasting the fans with compressed air.

[@n3Cr0ManCeD]

@@Matt-dk3wl Forgot the voltage issue. Thanks for adding it

[@AsianTankPilot]

Came here to say this. You can damage the bearings. Yes, I've seen it happen.

[@Pcswitchgamer]

@@AsianTankPilot How then

[@bigcheesetxmedia]

fyi if you ramp a fan up with compressed air, while the device is off as you did at 1:31, it can can short out the board the fan is connected to since its generating a current. hold fan still while you blast it with air so it cant spin

[@hiry45]

I was going to say this too, make sure to hold the fan down while blowing out the fans

[@insanemang9983]

My thought exactly.

[@Supersprint27]

very detailed, thank you. I’d recommend to also clean all the lead screws before re-greasing them, so you’re not putting new grease on top of old grease. A bit like changing the oil in your car rather than just keep topping it up.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Yeah that's a good suggestion. Should have included that in the video.

[@joepvandijk]

What do you recommend for cleaning the lead screws? Also the isopropanyl?

[@donniecannon774]

@@joepvandijk I have successfully used Brakleen (Brake cleaner) sprayed onto a microfiber first.. no need to spray it directly, may get in unwanted places.

[@bigtexuntex7825]

I've been maintaining linear rails on printers for44 years. Cleaning those rails is always a good idea. The dirt you may never see will resist motion. 44 years ago the motors were weak, so print quality quickly showed big impact. A 3d printer is different than a dot matrix printer, but those linear bearings and chrome plated rails have not changed much. And when maintaining my 3d printers, I can confirm they need it more than the dot matrix printers. quality prints require good maintenance. Good video!

[@imacmill]

Another 'safety' tip, similar to the tip regarding blowing fans out: when moving the print head manually while cleaning/lubricating the linear rails, move the head very slowly, because, like a fan motor, the print head stepper motors will generate a (possibly damaging) current back into the board they're attached to.

[@TheExtremeElementz]

Best maintenance video by far! Great work.

[@3DPrintStuff]

That's high praise, thank you.

[@dazealex]

Agree. Best one out there. Explained well.

[@MicBergsma]

Thanks for sharing, my new P1S is on the way! Can’t wait!

[@edmclaughlin4923]

Hey Thanks for this video. After a month of 18 hour printing, my X1C started squeaking. Followed your routine. Printer is purring like a kitten. Nice and quiet.

[@ToddAnglin]

Useful video. Thanks for sharing. In my experience printing PLA, you can go way, WAY more than 3 to 4 spools between changing the cutter blade. Probably heavily dependent on how you’re using AMS/switches per layer, but I’ve probably gone closer 100 rolls. FWIW.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Yeah rolls of filament is a funny metric for that one. They also say # of cuts which is a better metric, I think its 3-5000 if I remember correctly. If you just use rolls of filament it could be 1 cut or 1000 cuts per roll depending on the number of color changes. Thanks for your input. 100 rolls is a lot, are you printing parts for small scale manufacturing?

[@andyvieluf6377]

Ive been using this video every month when i do everything. I follow along with the steps every time. Thank you for this!

[@Skullfurious]

Hold the fan still while you do it. It generates electricity to spin the fan rapidly. Can cause shorting.

[@seanvredevoogd5238]

What anti rust coating are you using in this video? 3:11

[@ArvoBowenIII]

Great video! Very helpful to see this maintenance montage video.

[@thomasehrler7510]

These are the videos I really enjoy. Also thanks to all the people mentioning not to let the fans rotate.

[@jaimebosworth4227]

Thanks!

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're welcome, thanks for the super thanks!

[@companyoflosers]

just a tip, hold the blades of your fans when you are blowing them out. its better for cleaning them but also fans can become a generator when they blow fast enough in reverse. most modern tech has protection in place to prevent power from feeding back into your electronics, but no need to risk finding out if bambu does too. also I'm surprised bambu recommends alcohol for cleaning the camera and lidar as it can permanently fog the lenses. ammonia free windex or just water with a microfiber cloth is my go-to.

[@TheJankramer]

Thankyou great video, a bit of advise, Hold your finger on the fan when you are cleaning them, so they don't spin, you could break the bearing in the fan, and make them very noisy.

[@nakleh]

Very comprehensive, thank you! I just followed your steps and got my 6 month old P1S good as new!

[@williamelewis464]

Get a dryer sheet from cleaning your clothes, use that on the top glass then switch to a microfiber cloth and buff it, less dust buildup and you can use one 5 or 6 times before needing a new one, also works on baseboards

[@3DPrintStuff]

Interesting tip, didn’t know you could use dryer sheets on glass. I’ll have to give it a try.

[@naktaal]

Nice tip! Do you mean use a new dryer sheet or used?

[@TouchofDepth]

​@@naktaalbetter to use a used one because it will have less wax on it

[@scaryfriend1]

You have a link for the blower?

[@gigabuck9091]

oh i havent done any maintenance since i got it last year

[@ThePiitteri]

I have to do maintenance every month or every 5kg. Thanks. I would have just kept printing until fail

[@capthowdy126]

ive had my p1s for about 3 weeks an this was something i was worried about but im not going to lie. i got 12 other machines that range from kingroons kp3 to sahppire plus or qq-s pro so alot of different types an brands of printers an maintenance is something i didnt really do for any of those brands or what little i did was not near as often as bambu lab recommends for there machines ,but im going to do it cause i paid more for this machine an im really enjoying it but all my other printers are still running strong. the p1s is on a different level compared to my older stuff but they are still capable machines but i wouldnt mind selling a couple of them off to get newer printers if not all bambu lab machines, really would like to replace a couple of my bed slingers for one of there a1 to see how well they do compared the p1s, but what really makes the bambu machines so much better is the ams an software.

[@AlanLamb-p4p]

Super helpful video. My 3-month-old lightly used X1 Carbon printer nozzle seems to be holding onto the filament after going through pre-checks. I print mostly PETG. Going to give it a good cleaning and then look into replacing any required parts to fix the issue.

[@sydnerd]

Check if your filament needs to be dried, this is most likely happening when your filament is humid and there is excess filament coming out. You can just use the drying program over night in the UI of the printer itself and put a small box over the filament (with maybe some holes) for best performance.

[@johnolson9469]

Also verify that the ptfe tubing from the AMS (if you have one) and the one connected to the print head do not have sharp bends, and are not worn out inside.

[@TheFishTankChannel]

Hey be careful blowing out the fans like that. While in motion from the fan they are generating voltage back to the control board. Best to unplug you want to do that air spin cycle. Alternately hold the fan in plan with a finger or tape and manually go around it to clean the blades so you don't need to unplug them.

[@cheese_da_dragon]

one video for all the maintainence, nice

[@IndianaDiy]

I found on the Bambu lab wiki they mentioned some brand of grease or Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE as an alternative for leed screws. I printed resealable trays for ams desiccant and used some Dry & Dry orange beads, plus using original desiccant till it used up. But My Ams is only at 10% humidity, I have seen that Slice Engineering makes desiccant for rolls that’s not silica and really powerful at drying Ams.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Yes they added a recommendation for the type of grease after I had made this video. From the bambu wiki "You can use the BX-300/F series grease in the link, but other lubrication alternatives can be used. A popular lubricant is Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE or Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease which should work similarly." wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance Reusable trays for the AMS desiccant are a good idea.

[@MajorShy]

So 92003 works well?

[@xKazuki117]

Thank you for this step by step guide, i really needed it.

[@daveisradicle]

Great video, thanks for the in depth clean out

[@colinmsmall]

Thanks for making this.

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're welcome, glad you liked it.

[@ALNigro-cy7qi]

This was clear, concise, and extremely helpful.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad you found it useful

[@aeonjoey3d]

6:57 OMG THANK YOU!!!! I kept getting an intermittent error only at the end of prints saying it couldn't pull the filament back into the AMS from the print head and that there might be a clog, almost every time hitting retry would fix it, turns out it was the blade!? swapped it and haven't gotten the error since. thanks!

[@3DPrintStuff]

You’re welcome, I’m glad this video helped you sort out your issue!

[@mobiobione]

Nice. I have the tools, so I sharpened my cutter - it was not cutting TPU fully, but now my MK3S+ is the dedicated TPU machine. What about belt tension adjusting? I'm aware that it is 'resetable', but I dont't know when...must research.

[@3DPrintStuff]

If you perform a "Device self test" the printer will tell you if the tensioners need adjusting. Bambu Lab have a good video on how to do this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5PNm2OIgLx7pac

[@mobiobione]

@@3DPrintStuff sweet, thanks. That's what I get for not reading the owners manual

[@ericray7173]

I use fine sandpaper and water to sharpen that blade.

[@JLanc1982]

I just got my P1P,should I grease the jack screws now or wait?

[@Est1951]

Good video and comments. This will be a good reference when I get my new P1S. Subscribed.

[@pawe4970]

Thank's for this Maintenance Tutorial 👍. Great JOB.

[@zalllon]

I noticed some things to do once a month and every week. OK, I can start doing that now in month 6, 😮

[@ClaudeLaflamme-z4q]

Thank you for your video. GREAT. You say to apply an anti-rust every 6 months, what kind of anti-rust should be applied?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Super Lube 52004: amzn.to/453YC4n, any generic sewing machine oil will do but superlube has a good reputation.

[@ClaudeLaflamme-z4q]

Thank you! I have already bought all the products you recommended but I didn't think Super Lube was an anti-rust product.

[@3DPrintStuff]

@@ClaudeLaflamme-z4q Oh nice, yeah you're basically just preventing the metal from being exposed to air/moisture by having a thin layer of oil on the rods. I wasn't sure if they market it as anti-rust but I went and checked its on their technical sheet "Prevents rust and corrosion" www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Multi_Use_Synthetic_Lightweight_Oil.pdf

[@yusufmertsagr9573]

Can I use super lubricant multi-purpose synthetic oil ISO 100 instead of ISO 68 light oil?

[@kentkacs3140]

This is a very nice, clear, helpful video. Thank you.

[@txmexnittro]

Wow, what an awesome video and thanks for sharing!!!!

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment

[@hollisg6958]

do i need to use antirust coating if i only use pla?

[@philstover2422]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video!! Very helpful.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.

[@darrylthomas4306]

Excellent maintenance video. Thanks

[@raresgabriel1111]

one tip : don t let the fan spin when you are cleaning it.

[@thorgraum1462]

Was about to say it. This will ruin your bearinga if you let the fan spin. Also, remove the flex bed before lubing so you dont get oil on it

[@NickNam3]

Awesome video man! 👏👏👏

[@3DPrintStuff]

Thanks! 👍

[@reallukx]

Very helpful video! What is your C1 standing on? Some find of dumping foam?

[@3DPrintStuff]

20in x 20in x 2in concrete paver and a 16in x 16in x 1in rubber paver underneath.

[@wolfe1970]

You should never let fans spin when blowing them out with compressed air, always a good practice to hold them as your blowing, some fans can send an electrical charge back down the wires

[@3DPrintStuff]

Noted, I've pinned a comment at the top of this comments section saying the same thing.

[@dougbas3980]

I subscribed. Maybe my printer will last and work well now that you have told me how to take care of it. Thank you.

[@Nixlplix]

I worry because sometimes compressed air cans seem to shoot out liquid. Isn't that bad?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Are you holding it upside down? You should hold these cans upright while using them. Compressed air cans are a liquid in the can that rapidly expands into gas as it leaves the can. You shouldn't have to worry about it.

[@oldplayer8025]

Is super lube 51004 OK as an alternative for Super Lube 52004?

[@s_bandera]

This automatically goes into favourites playlist 🫡👍🤩

[@ATDistinction]

Vacuum before you grease, otherwise the grease captures the tiny filaments you can't see (let alone some big ones). Also, a good alternative is WD40 Dry PTFE, works well on mine, seems to not hold onto anything.

[@ryanamey5024]

From a non Bambu owner… some of these timeframes seem pretty quick. I mean some people go through 30 spools in one month or maybe more. How many Bambi users actually change parts or clean as often as is recommended?

[@ericray7173]

Only the ones whose prints don’t suck.

[@pjtodd6756]

You did an excellent job with the video. Thank you! Very clear shots of pertinent areas.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Thank you :)

[@themassman1035]

Very useful and helpful video. Thanks for sharing!

[@3DPrintStuff]

Thanks for the comment

[@IndianaGraphics]

Did I miss the link to that oil bottle with the tiny straw for the tension bearings? I do not see a link for that...

[@3DPrintStuff]

Sorry I just added that back to the description. Must have taken it out by accident.

[@joshwhite4412]

Same filament cutter for over a year now! Everything else, sure.

[@Lyoishi]

A pretty solid video, would have been nice when i did my maintenance.

[@4tra]

ermm BambuLab recommends not to use cardboard spools in AMS unit

[@craftyridge]

Do you have any recommendations for the rollers in the AMS? Mine are so squeaky but I keep getting different answers. Some say only silicone lubricants others say it doesn’t matter.

[@JOSAVALA]

What happens if you get grease on the belt itself? Does it damage the belt in any way and is there an easy way to clean it?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Shouldn't damage the belt. The concern would be your belt skipping teeth if there's too much lubricant on the belts surface. You could probably try using some IPA on a rag to wipe your belt and get rid of any lubricant that might be on it.

[@glennfelpel9785]

Outstanding video. Great work and I for one certainly do appreciate the information. And thank you for the links.

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're welcome, glad it was helpful.

[@joepvandijk]

Is the super lube bottle that you use also the anti rust coat?

[@3DPrintStuff]

yes

[@the_bwos]

what is the closest thing to 52004 lubricants. Super Lube doesn't ship that lubricant to my country 😭

[@3DPrintStuff]

You can look up “sewing machine oil”

[@HL09]

I want to go from an ender 3v2 to this bc of the advertised lack of maintenance, is this true? Im sick of leveling my bed, cleaning it, swapping nozzles, put sticky notes under my bed, worry about the frame etc etc. Is it easier on this printer? My ender 3v2 has been out of tune for years because I can never get it right, would this printer fix that? Edit: I do have a CR touch, however it rarely helps due to the warping in my bed

[@3DPrintStuff]

There's still the maintenance items you see in this video that Bambu Labs recommends. But it's definitely an easier printing experience with this printer compared to an ender 3 v2. The ender3 v2 is what I had before the X1C and I don't use the ender at all anymore. Bed levelling is entirely handled by the printer. Swapping nozzles is a bit of a chore cause you have to change out the entire hot end but I have a video showing that if you want to know what that looks like. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5ebiYpur7-GiNE I have no affiliation with Bambu Lab and would definitely recommend the X1C if you're looking for mostly hassle free printing.

[@OfficialLennyVR]

@3D Print Stuff. tip bambu lab recommended not using wooden spools

[@3DPrintStuff]

That is correct

[@ABgam3r]

Can I use the Prusa’s lubricant to lubricare the parts of the printer (exept the xy motors)? Because I have stealed a lot of this lubricant from my school😂😂

[@3DPrintStuff]

It may spontaneously combust... /s I'm not sure what Prusa's suggests their lubricant be used for but if it's meant for the lead screws then I'd say go for it.

[@77rabidsquirrels]

What are those blocks underneath your printer?

[@3DPrintStuff]

A concrete paver and a rubber paver. They help reduce some of the vibrations being transferred to the table. They aren't really necessary, especially since this printer lives in the garage.

[@MajorShy]

Link for the lube bottle?

[@sttm1283]

do you have a link for the needle bottle?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Just added them back to the description. Must have taken it out by accident.

[@LuferCCGnRPG]

for the z-axis screw rods is it possible to use WD-40?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Wouldn’t recommend it. WD-40 isn’t a grease and so doesn’t stay where it’s placed as well as the other options. Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE or Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease are the recommended greases.

[@Levafpv]

Nice vid many thanks, do you have alternatives with the super lube 52004?? In Eu it costs me the double of the price …50€ with shipping thanks again

[@3DPrintStuff]

I've read some people are using any generic sewing machine oil.

[@CristianGRojasV]

Do you think the WD-40 will be OK?

[@billytalentrocks345]

@@CristianGRojasV wd-40 is not lube. It feels like it, but it's not. Use proper lube.

[@brandonkish3100]

Any reason why you went with "Super Lube 52004" which does not have PTFE vs "Super Lube 51004" that has PTFE? As I understand it, PTFE helps with lubrication. I am still new to this.

[@brandonkish3100]

Also, any reason for not going with "Super Lube-21030" with PTFE for the grease?

[@3DPrintStuff]

@@brandonkish3100 For your first question. We're using this mainly as an anti rust coating. So the added PTFE isn't really necessary but won't hurt if that 's what you want to go with. Second question. That 21030 is a good option. I went with the lucas oil white lithium grease because it's a very affordable option.

[@adamfelfoldy5791]

@@3DPrintStuff And what would you recommend from from the WD40 Specialist series? The Sylicon, PTFE or other?

[@jollino]

What kind of anti-rust should be used on the rods?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Super Lube 52004: amzn.to/453YC4n, any generic sewing machine oil will do but superlube has a good reputation.

[@hradford55]

Thanks this is helpful. Where did you get the needle-nosed bottle?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad it was helpful. Got them from amazon: amzn.to/3OKrk4r

[@hradford55]

Thanks @@3DPrintStuff

[@hotfix7387]

Where did you get the paver you are using? It looks 18x18 or 20x20. All I can find at Home Depot and Lowes is 16x16 which barely fits the printer, or 24x24 which is way too big.

[@3DPrintStuff]

www.rona.ca/en/product/oldcastle-plaza-slab-concrete-dorset-grey-20-in-x-20-in-10503148-66635208

[@Amarand]

Did you have a recommendation for the needle-nosed bottle you're using for the oil? Have a specific one you like?

[@3DPrintStuff]

I used these ones from amazon: amzn.to/3OKrk4r

[@Amarand]

@@3DPrintStuffAwesome! Thanks!

[@artofmelissa]

Quick question. Some of the lube that i cleaned off around the base of the "lube screw" got into the smaller screws, I cleaned them the best I could, but i know its not 100% cleaned out. I cant get into the little spaces of the small screws. Any ideas if this would cause an issue

[@3DPrintStuff]

I think you mean the "lead screws" but I can understand how you could hear "lube screw". If some lubricant got into the mounting screws around the lead screw base that should be completely fine. I don't see that causing any issues.

[@wilmercb]

As a new X1 Carbon owner, I have found some much great info in your channel, Thanks. Questions: Where did you got that concrete tile? (I'm assuming is concrete) I think Stefan from CNC Kitchen mention something about that and what's the little black/green tent and how you implement into your workflow. Any info related to fumes, since I have my X1 Carbon in my on bedroom studio. Thanks in advance for any info.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Concrete tile is from Rona which is a home improvement/hardware store up here in Canada. Black and green tent is intended to be a grow tent but I use it in the winter to heat the area around my printers. My printers live in a unheated garage when they're not in my home office. It gets to -30celcius sometimes so I have a little space heater to heat up the inside of the tent and I can print year round. If your printer is in your bedroom I would only print PLA.

[@wilmercb]

I haven't print yet with the PETG filament I purchase neither the TPU. I have to see and I might need to buy an inline fan to vent out and circulate air. I live in Florida, USA. Thanks again, much appreciated. @@3DPrintStuff

[@Morcego538]

Is Super Lube 52004 Synthetic with PTFE ok for bearings and Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), for Z -Axis lead screws ? Having some difficult finding things on stock.

[@3DPrintStuff]

with PTFE will be fine and 21030 is an acceptable alternative for the Z-Axis

[@Morcego538]

@@3DPrintStuff thank you! Will order these.

[@obijuan-]

Nicely Done. Thank you.

[@GoldFus1on]

Which filament brand you recommend for pla and petg printing? I am also in Canada and the prices varies quite a bit. Will be getting the p1s so ur input would be great 😊

[@3DPrintStuff]

I've really liked the stuff I get from filaments.ca . I have no affiliation with them but like their filaments. Bambu Labs filaments have also been great but a little pricey, it's been said that it's just rebranded sunlu pla+ so that's another option.

[@AW_DIY_garage]

It was a good video. Thank you.

[@StrongBarnes90]

Extremely helpful thanks bro... I gotta say your voice sounds the same as the guy from the "Casually Explained: Is She Into You?" video lmao.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Lmao, that’s actually really funny. If only this channel were as successful as Casually Explained.

[@MiguelRodriguez2010]

SAVING THIS!!! Thanks 🙏🏼

[@3DPrintStuff]

No problem!!

[@cindywhite9754]

Very Helpful Video Thanks! I can't find a save video button, and I am signed into UTube.

[@3DPrintStuff]

If you like the video (thumbs up) it will be saved to your liked videos. You can also click the 3 dots on the bottom right and click Save.

[@blaknowt]

If you are going to blow out the fans you need to hold them in place. If not you are going to ruin the bearings in the fans.

[@aeppikx]

never blow fans with compressed air , 1st they produce voltage and 2nd that ruins their bearings

[@migueldias1873]

The super Lube you showed is not available on my region. What should I search for to get something smiliar? Great video!

[@3DPrintStuff]

You can search for sewing machine oil.

[@imacmill]

Ugh! Lots of work, compared to my 4 year-old Ender-2 V2, which still works beautifully with simple maintenance every 5 months, or so.

[@3DPrintStuff]

These are just the recommended intervals. I'm sure there are many people happily printing without doing most of these tasks.

[@imacmill]

@@3DPrintStuff I just got my P1S a couple of days ago, and I think I'll go with a once-a-month maintenance plan. 🙂

[@Tommymang]

Feathers in the fan...? :-) Thanks for the maintenance tips. Good job.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Yeah I have no idea where that came from and was very surprised to even see that come out of the fan during editing. Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked it.

[@glowpipe]

Those damn chickens printing at night!

[@cameronbasford8991]

Do not blow your fans and make them spin like this guy. Hold the fan and then blow it out.

[@hermfamily7695]

This

[@SmokyFrosty]

Unless you can unplug it first. Reverse voltage is not great but most good electronics should have reverse voltage protection diodes.

[@ericray7173]

Have you heard of one single case of this causing damage? Just curious because I have blown about 1000 plugged in fans with no issues.

[@SmokyFrosty]

@@ericray7173 I have 'broken' a device before by doing this. However it was a very cheap device with no protection. I'd guess almost all devices with fans have this protection if they use sensitive electronics.

[@fashionskiller]

I busted ventilator in my GF's laptop that way once, the bearing gave up.

[@Stubones999]

be careful spinning the fan with your compressed air since a DC motor turns into a generator if you spin it... If you spin it higher than it's rated fan speed, it will generate higher voltage than the control circuitry can handle. So, STOP the fins when you blow it off...

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're not the first and you won't be the last person to mention this. I appreciate the concern and have made the mental note for next time.

[@spectre7529]

Why couldnt they just do everything in hours (Every 50 hours lube the rods ETC.)

[@kawaiichi]

That's a lot of lubing if you print every day

[@traxendregames7880]

Very useful thanks !

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad it was helpful!

[@GKSchattenjaeger]

I avoid feathers in the fans by not placing the printer in a chicken coop. Thanks for the video.

[@advocado7373]

7:12 dang. someone forgot to remove extruder and clean that filthy gear. (i know video is old, but still)

[@Torskel]

This is 90% for any printer :D

[@Pyriscent]

Do not use IPA on the carbon fiber rods as you will inevitably get alcohol on the rubber belts. Alcohol breaks down rubber at a chemical level, this is why cheap gasoline breaks your car down. I don't see anyone else in the comment section warning about this

[@justinwirtner4738]

Then what should you use?

[@fly-fpv]

Use ipa towel