Rebuilding the V8 - Dialing in the Camshaft; 351 Cleveland Part 5

[@daleyurk4369]

Peter, I've seen cams dialed in before but never as clearly as you've just explained it. Great video and teaching moment! Can't wait for the next installment.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks Dale, hope it helps. Cheers and thanks again. Peter

[@merlingeikie]

What you do here Peter, is to make engine rebuilding, which is now an accessible hobby, for those so inclined, FUN and Hobby-ish instead of blackbox professional trade work. You are casual yet precise and clear. Your style is professional but at a level which we the DIY folk, can relate to. I am just about to get myself a Tickford AU2 302 lpg/PULP ute, and it's comforting to know that, if needed, I will be able to work on an engine which has a lot of history and is 'sweet'. My son and I have done a fair bit of mechanical work, heads, all sort but no deep stuff like bearing shells and rings. You make that sort of work do-able. Thanks Mate and keep it up, we appreciate a good Australian publication on KZbin. KZbin is the ultimate DIY resource. All the best, Merlin

[@davidgoodwin658]

I just bought a used 351C that has been stroked out to 393 cubes. I will be using a custom 9 quart oil pan and pickup. The ARP drive for the pump adjustment is good idea. Very informative video.

[@aussieguitar1987]

Great video Peter, I really enjoy the detail you go into with all of your videos.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks, I always attempt to cover bases. Cheers

[@seanbyrne7919]

The way you found true top dead centre takes me back 25 years as it is basically the same technique as I was taught when timing inline Bosch fuel pumps for Deutz diesel engines as they did not have any kind of external timing marks at all. Used to roughly find top dead centre for number 1 cylinder (which is the rear most cylinder on a Deutz engine) on compression stroke so both rocker arms have clearance and the opposite cylinder rocker arms are rocking. Then turn back engine a approximately 90 degrees and with a large screw driver lever open one of the valves and place a 6mm allen key between rocker arm and valve stem. Gently and carefully turn engine back over towards TDC until valve touches piston and locks up. Make a mark with a paint pen on the crankshaft pulley and scribe in the paint a mark lining up with a self made wire pointer exactly like yours but made from heavy duty welding wire. Turn engine back and remove allen key. Turn engine back past TDC and repeat the same procedure. Measure distance between the two marks with a vernier, divide by half and that gives true top dead centre. Scribe in another mark in paint for your TDC. Then you would have to calculate another mark for commencement of delivery for the fuel timing. This involved a calculation of the diameter of the pulley and how many degrees required for commencement of delivery of fuel and that will give you a calculation in millimetres how far before TDC your mark needs to be to time the fuel pump. Simple enough to do in the engine rebuild centre, not so simple in an underground gold mine on a Tamrock twin boom drill. Ahh those were the days.

[@tolgahk84]

Thanks Peter, im loving this series of yours, i cant wait to get stuck into rebuilding my 302 clevo. Im learning a great deal watching these video's of yours.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks and it's great you're rebuilding the 302 - a fantastic engine indeed. Cheers

[@No_soup_for_you]

Thanks Peter. Lucky for us (and your students), you're a good teacher.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks, now all I need to do is prove it to the bosses. Cheers Peter

[@richardgladdish2776]

Awesome series of videos ! Peter. Been a mechanic myself for 30 years (you never stop learning), still enjoy listening to others talking shop. Doing a 351c myself and your detail and passion is fantastic. Please keep it up.

[@thomasbraden2450]

Peter, thanks for putting this series together, I ordered my Summit degree wheel, and installed it tonight. For some reason, it took me a while to get through the process, I would turn the crank clockwise and get my measurement, then every time (3 or 4 tries) I would go counter clockwise to get my second setting on the wheel, the bolt would loosen up. Very frustrating, but in the end, I ended up with exactly 30 degrees on before and after TDC, no adding and dividing at all. Ran out of time tonight but will put the dial indicator to use tomorrow night. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.

[@emilymaxwell4260]

Just came across your videos. Really enjoying them. Great explanations. Im thinking about building an engine myself for the first time and watching you videos makes it seem achievable. Thanks again.

[@PeterAndersons]

My pleasure, glad to be of service. Cheers

[@TheEvanovitch]

i thought i was gonna watch a video series of someone just showing how he's rebuilding this engine, but i was very nicely surprised. as a car mechanic fresh out of school, alot of these things like dialing cams aren't tought anymore. i can do complicated diagnostics on management systems, and of course alot of common mechanic stuff, but i really did learn alot new stuff from this video. thanks mate!

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks for the comments, glad you liked it. Cheers

[@actthree34]

You are the teacher I wish I had. Beautifully presented and explained!

[@TomCulic]

I've been rebuilding my 351c out of my XW GT so I've been running from the garage to the computer with each step to carefully scrutanise your videos step by step..Somehow the oil pump section I presumed I knew what to do..Just happened to glance at your new oil pump and realised I have NOT put in the oil pump drive shaft..Luck has it the engine is still on the engine stand and tomorrow I will go to Bursons and get new oil pan gaskets and make sure the drive shaft goes in this time..thank you Master from the Grasshopper..

[@BlueOvalEdge]

Nice demonstration of TDC. One common point of confusion is what # to read on the wheel depending on what direction you are turning the engine. This sounds no-duh but its easy to get confused if you should count the degrees ahead or the degrees past. Simple rule of thumb is that you are always counting down towards zero no matter what direction you are turning the engine. A very critical point is to also ensure that the piston is very snug up against the piston stop. This removes any tolerance (space) in the piston pin & connecting rod that will alter your readings. I speak from experience here. It’s tempting to just “kiss” the piston stop to avoid leaving a mark in the piston. If you do this, like I did, your TDC reading will not be accurate by 1-2°. If you are concerned about putting a mark in the top of the piston, tape a flat piece of metal on top of the piston where the stop makes contact. Do not use something soft like a vacuum cap on the piston stop. Anything soft will compress and screw up your readings. Don’t slam the piston into the stop of course, but when you make initial contact with the stop, place a little pressure on the breaker bar to ensure the piston is tight up against the stop. Do this clock and counter clockwise and you will get accurate readings like Peter did. If you want to practice to ensure that you have the method down, install the balancer with timing marks and a known accurate timing pointer. Use a 4-6" long all thread bolt that will allow you to not only turn the engine, but you can also attach the degree wheel to the same bolt. Use washers in the crank bolt hole to space the wheel fairly close to flush with the balancer. Use a nut on the all thread bolt to allow you to tighten the wheel to the washer stack up, making sure the wheel does not tighten directly to the balancer or it will bend into the hole where the crank bolt is. Proper washer stack up prevents this. You want the balancer say 1/32” off the damper. The nut will allow you to re-position the wheel to zero in lieu of repositioning the pointer over and over again. Now, you are ready to practice. Start by doing exactly what Peter does. Get the piston to what looks like TDC like Peter did but look at the installed timing pointer and, for the sake of practice, make sure the engine is off TDC say 3-5°. You will be surprised that the piston will still look like it's at TDC even 3-5° off at the pointer. Now, follow Peter’s procedure and when you are done, you can then use the known accurate factory pointer/damper marks to verify that you correctly determined TDC. I do this myself to train others how to do this procedure correctly and it works fast. You can repeat this procedure 10 times in 20-30 min and you will have it down pat and can teach others. Nice work Peter. 🤭☺😋

[@PeterAndersons]

Brilliant words and advice, thank you!

[@JonnyCrash]

Excellent video! I’ll be referencing this extensively when I dial in my first cam later this year.

[@leonardgilbreath9004]

Good video Pete I'll use this when I do the 400 in the Torino thanks.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks Leonard, a 400 would be rather lovely. Cheers

[@HarrySchwandule]

I really appreciate these videos, they are better than the factory manual in my opinion.

[@jsongeredu2995]

Enjoying the videos mate. We have two xy gt replicas in the family with 351 clevelands and trying to learn more about them. So much history in these vehicles and you have got another sub :)

[@marcmelillo5748]

Man, your videos keep getting better and better. Always hanging to see the next. Thanks for sharing.

[@PeterAndersons]

You're welcome Marc and thanks for your kind comments. Cheers Pete

[@thatjeeplife7499]

Hi peter just wanted to say your videos are amazing mate i cant stop watching them iv learnt so much from you as i am taking on my fist restoration which was my grandads xe falcon gl with spac option you make a daunting task look doable keep the videos coming mate :)

[@merlingeikie]

Wow, very well done. what a pro! Thanks and keep up the good work.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks Merlin, kind comment.

[@tomeyssen9674]

Merry Christmas Peter. Great job!

[@godfreypoon5148]

26:35 - I think it is pound-foot? As in, pound your foot on the end of the wrench. "Foot pounds" is when you didn't torque up the bolts on the engine stand properly, and it fell on your foot.

[@vigilante351]

Huge thanks for showing the degree part of the video - think ill need to practice some of this with someone who knows what they are doing to make sure I get it right. Again - looking forward to the next video!

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks, yes it can be confusing but makes sense after a little while. Thanks for the comments. Cheers

[@alynicholls3230]

hi pete, enjoy your videos, as kid i knew a guy that worked with my dad who was obsessed with aussie fords, he had an xd v8 falcon and to me it looked like a mk3 granada on steroids, aussie fords are seldom seen in the uk, but i always wanted one.

[@ruebenskedgwell9627]

Well done Peter i don't know where you get the energy man , i've heard of super mums but you don't need to take the cake cause i'm given it to ya ! Awesome can't wait for the next vid cheers .

[@starbattles1]

Great video's. I am a cleveland fan too. I'll be doing one thins weekend. I have 3 blocks sitting on the side waiting to be done.

[@Dan79istheman]

Love your video's Pete.

[@nicholaspope-jt8qb]

Hi Pete, long time channel follower, I have a 1978 XC 500 with a 302. I was just wondering what model number of timing chain you used. I have to replace a failed water pump and will replace the stock chain while it’s accessible. Much appreciated, love the channel

[@PeterAndersons]

Hi mate, I always use Rollmaster, they're a billet item and considered one of the very best... they're also from South Aus!

[@Johnny-yc2cs]

Awesome. A new video

[@godfreypoon5148]

MEGABYTES OF INFO!

[@PeterAndersons]

Glad you're enthusiastic. Cheers

[@joshholland7062]

Yeah peter! Love it👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@marklowe7431]

Perfect advice

[@jeffkeith637]

Borescope. Good fun, I love it.

[@PeterAndersons]

Ah yes, that's it Cheers

[@jameshaynes8489]

i have always liked these old engines.they were designed by the guy who designed the big block chevy

[@daveb5016]

Thanks Peter, very helpful video. I became a patreon member today. Just a small contribution so that you might be able to make more excellent videos. Thanks.

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks Dave and I'm sorry I hadn't responded sooner. So generous of you and will allow me to improve content. Cheers and thanks again. Peter

[@daveb5016]

Glad to help Peter. BTW, you couldn't tell me the thread pitch for the Cleveland spark plug could you? One of the spark plug holes has been cross threaded at some point and I need to fix it to get a new spark plug in there. I"m also nearly ready to pull the engine and transmission out of the ZH fairlane. Can't wait to clean up the engine and rebuild it.

[@daveb5016]

Never mind, I figured out the thread myself and re-tapped the thread from the inside of the head and now it works as a good as new.

[@bobbailey7024]

Another great video but if you wish to be pedantic, the correct teminology for torque is pounds-feet (or Newton-Metres) whereas work is feet-pounds e.g. horsepower is 33,000 ft-lbs/minute.

[@darronmecak5720]

My rollmaster never came with that brass shim

[@Boats29]

What pistons did you end up using? Do you know what the compression height is?

[@vigilante351]

Justin Bowtell they look like sealed power speed pro

[@PeterAndersons]

Hi Justin, They are Speed-Pro (Federal Mogul) .020 Hypereutectic pistons. I think the compression height is 1.6, but don't quote me on that, will refer back when I look at the spec sheet. Cheers

[@Boats29]

Thanks a bunch

[@pattreadwell6149]

Thanks

[@TheSecretRocker]

When is the next video going to come out?

[@kerrymulcahy8973]

Do I really need to know the compression? I’m not racing my car.

[@PeterAndersons]

Maybe not, but you need it for efficiency and to best suit the camshaft grind and fuel you will be using...

[@joshholland7062]

Do a torana rebuild or vl with a turbo

[@RT060789]

Peter, I have enjoyed your videos. I am a deciple of the 351 Cleveland as it is the first engine I have ever loved. I grew up with a 72 Mach 1 which my parents bought new and I still own. I do have a question for you. Have you ever installed a Sealed power CS-650 camshaft in any of your builds. The Cs-650 is supposed to be a copy of the D1ZZ Cobra Jet camshaft but it may be a copy of the later 72 D2ZZ cam that is ground 4 degrees retarded. I have the Comp cams version in the engine currently which I have found to have a very aggressive lobe ramp and is somewhat noisey. Keep up the videos. Best, Ron

[@vintagetintrader1062]

If you are looking for another set of GXL Rims, please contact me. Love your videos, very informative, especially the thing on the conrod radius on the crank

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks sir, I'm not sure what to do with the rims... to have them dipped and re-powdercoated is $300, I may have to bite the bullet on that... what are you asking for yours? Cheers Peter

[@vintagetintrader1062]

+Peter Anderson only 150 or so for 4, one will need a visit to Eastern Wheel Works but all are very clean, just need to keep two tyres of it

[@Gokizzmass]

how about some old school Jellybean rims pete ? say 8 & 7 x 14 polished up look pretty good on xa -xc's. But i'm biased. GXL rims ? yeck !

[@garyoneill8868]

Good videos Pete. I've seen engine builders use the perspex and a burette (pronounced bew-rett) so maybe your method isn't that dodgy.

[@Gokizzmass]

Comp Cams recommends running in the cam on a single spring pete, it was easy enough to do while fully assembled. Do you have the air adaptor & post mount spring compressor ? Cheap enough from summit if you dont.

[@tracytorbarina9865]

AWOME VID KEPT THINKING NED FLANDERS THOUGH LOL

[@PeterAndersons]

Yes, but I occasionally swear then edit it out, Ned would never do that...

[@granskare]

I assume you did check to make sure this engine was not part of a stolen vehicle because you are now rebuilding the v8 :)

[@alynicholls3230]

oh p.s., did austraila get the v4 ford engines of the mid 60,s early 70,s, always liked those been looking for a good 20 litre v4 ford for my mk2 escort for 10 years never found a good one though, ended up with a 20 litre i4 pinto(sierra) instead lol. i will get one one day.

[@paulfelmingham9450]

8

[@normsilva8377]

Oo9ló

[@TheDb351c]

The main drawback of your videos is, you talk too damn much. Get to the point