Peugeot Suspension strut removal and top mount bearing replacement

[@mrman590]

A really informative video. Its clear that you are a very experienced car mechanic and we all need your help. More videos please!

[@davidbaugh4958]

What a great video - ive just got a 53 plate 206 and ive learned quite a lot from this thank you

[@Elwooddudes]

Thanks for the video! I think the top strut bearing needs replacing in my Peugeot expert… shall tackle it soon.

[@bestbuildpc]

I loved your videos! I do know how much work takes to fix this. Thanks a lot. Please upload more videos.

[@philip.aocallaghan4602]

Great vid. Taught I was the only mechanic that worked like this.

[@bunnybr]

Thanks for you kind comments

[@Burst111]

Thanx for video, IT was really helpfull, I could not find the way to fix it till I saw this simple video

[@AndyjustB]

You are an all weather star ,Sir! I have to look into stiff top bearings myself shortly, and your video gives me a great heads up for what to expect..I wonder if just a grease up or replacement will be needed...will let you know--keep up the good energy!

[@ba1dbrumm1e]

Really Helpful. Finger crossed it goes well tomorrow :)

[@fishandkayak7591]

excellent tutorial thanks for sharing.Good speed and style is great.You saved me time and money, Thanks again

[@klecoxs2]

Really Great DIY Video Thanks so much For Posting 👍👌

[@Colin56ish]

Sounds like you worked up a thirst! Well you've saved a few pennies. I'm a fussy old bugger and will remove all the rust and apply some corrosion resistant paint to everything before reassembly. Good to see the use of Anti-seize on the bolts.

[@brannenthompson9662]

You made getting the strut out look easy well done camera trickery I think as its bloody not. Ha Ha good job helped alot thanks.

[@mikeberry304]

Good job your spring clamps didn't come off or buy buy fingers , I do this for a living , wouldn't risk my fingers or do it that way , undo hub nut , trackrod end brakes and bottom ball joint next time and use wooden blocks , brick will crush and crack , at least it's done , top tip , jacking both sides up takes tension off anti roll bar when doing and front suspension work

[@flasheart49]

Wouldn't it have been easier to put the spring compressors on after you removed the strut assembly?

[@evieemaya88]

If I was to guess he had the compressors on first to try shorten the spring in place to make it alittle easier for removal dfrom the underside of the car

[@rockyfish3115]

Good video I just did the lower control arms and driverside drive shaft on the 1.6 petrol Berlingo problem I found is the new drive shaft the intermediate bearing was thinner then the original but its in and seems OK

[@FatRakoon]

I just went out to my wifes 206SW and I decided to have a little play about. I have handed in my driving licence due to a massive accident, and she does not drive. She only bought the car for me, cos my own died a couple of years ago and we only use this for my mate to drive me to hospital. Its not been moved for about 2 months and I only wanted to get her started up and drive her onto the driveway, but there was a huge noise. I did think it was the wheel rubbing on the kerb, but when I drove it forward and out away from the kerb, it was still sounding wierd. Its dark outside, and cold, but I grabbed a torch to have a look and the spring is poking into the tyre. Sodding heck. We will have a look at it in the morning, but as to whether we can fix it... I hope we can move the end of the spring enough for us to dive it to the local garage, because I know Im not able to fix it. Im disabled now and one handed wheelchair user isnt going to be much use getting springs replaced on a car that only gets used 6 times a year. This video has geven me a great insight into the work that needs to be done and so I hope that I will know if the mechanic tried to pull a fast one I suppose!

[@screwsnutsandbolts]

Another great video, subscribed ! 👍🏻

[@MrMartinsla]

I did this but drive shaft popped out of diff. I should have loosened the hub nut?

[@amopastorcanadense]

pretty fancy Peugeot car, thanks for the video!

[@davidjohnrobinson2887]

you tackled that job very professionally, made it look easy with patience of a saint. but the thought of compressing them springs and the compressors slipping off would not put that job on my DIY list.

[@tonystrudwick175]

A good video with old style health and safety 😉 one point I would like to mention is you should use a torque wrench apart from that a good diy job

[@Andy588tt]

Hi Top marks for persistence in the rain, you can get a new assembly with bearing of ebay for £26. Two small points , the first one for your safety and others who don't know better I would not rely on bricks use axel stands bricks are clay and can crack suddenly under load and could trap your leg the other point is the suspension leg has a locating notch near the bottom at the back near the pinch bolt so when you are trying to move the suspension leg with your large grips it won't move much keep up the good work and don't take comments as a dig but only constructive comments. Regards Andy

[@ABiggerPigeon]

Should you be able to turn the strut bearing by hand once youve put the new bearing on and reassembled the strut?

[@bunnybr]

I am pretty sure it turned by hand

[@martinbennett3082]

Nice one! Mine has just gone so will have to replace shortly. Great videos, keep'em coming! :-)

[@pulse6845]

Hi mate, after freeing the spring to realign I realised it was broke, just can't release it from bottom strut really difficult so I'm thinking I should take it to the garage or should I have undone the bottom 3 nuts under the hub/leg to free the suspension to take it out

[@bunnybr]

Avi Virdi There is a great video, (kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZa6qauwmLR4n80) for 207 front strut. If you have difficulty in removing the bottom strut from the hub tube, a 1/4" socket extension wedged into the gap may make it slightly easier to remove it. Good luck.

[@pulse6845]

thanks mate great video

[@pulse6845]

Hi mate, my spring on my peugeot 207 come away from the bottom mount and is sitting on half the mount after hitting a pot whole and now it's not aligned could I just compress the spring and align it again or will I have to take the whole thing of to align

[@bunnybr]

Avi Virdi If you are you sure the spring has not broken, then yes you can compress it and move it back into position. Make sure that it is seated properly at the top as well.

[@davidjohnrobinson2887]

Hi, great vidio. Was wondering what the symptoms were that drew you to the top of the suspension leg. I may have same problem with my 54 vauxhaul. Lads in local garage had it up on ramp and said everything was nice and tight, no slack in joints or bushes. I am getting a clunk sound when going over uneven road. Thought it was the exhaust at first wobbling about. ta John.

[@bunnybr]

The symptoms was stiff and unusual feeling on the steering. When Jacked up I could hear slight roughness. But the most telling was the jerkiness when turning the wheel with the car off the ground. For a clunking sound at the front the main suspect would be the anti roll bar link. Unless the pressure is taken off the links they appear solid although they can be gubbed. Some joints have to tested with weight on others weight off, so very easy to get wrong diagnosis. Good luck with your diagnostics.

[@johnlangrish7691]

Great instructional Video! Just had a spring break on my 406, have brought new strut complete with top bearing and spring through 247, for £25! But do I need the spring compressors, if I'm not changing the bearing?? I noticed that you kept your compressors on as you were fitting the reassembled strut to the car.... Is this necessary?

[@bunnybr]

Looks like you got a bargain. I am not sure if it is possible as I always keep them on. It makes it easier to manoeuvre the strut back into place. Getting it back is all about getting the right angles. And an inch shorter does make it easier. Let me know how you get on.

[@johnlangrish7691]

bunnybr I made a pair of smallish/light weight compressors from 12mm studding, and used these PLUS heavy duty bought ones to remove the top bearing for inspection. Seemed OK, but needed a good wash out with petrol and then fresh grease pack. Used the homemade compressors to shorten the leg by about 20mm, which was enough to get it back into the bottom yoke, then when nipple alignment was checked (used rear view mirror to see it), I simply jacked the suspension arm back up, whilst gently tapping the bottom yoke up. It went in absolutely fine. Only problem was that I lost about a pint of oil from the gear box... the drive shaft must have come out too far. Pain in the neck getting oil back into it, there was no drain plug, so had to guess how much to put back in..... Once again thanks for this video, I would not have been able to do this job without it!!!

[@ovidiumonoranu367]

Thank you! This video helps me a lot to figure out the simplest way for checking and eventually replacing the strut top bearing on the right suspension assembly for my Peugeot 607. Hope it will work! One question please! Was the wheel alignment necessary after this job?

[@bunnybr]

I checked the tracking before and after and it didn't alter. If the track rods are not removed, I cant see anything which would change the steering geometry. I used a simple rig with tape measures to find the toe settings. Simple but it works for me.

[@nockieboy]

Going to be replacing the front suspension coils on my missus' 206cc next week. Thanks for the video - the Haynes manual is useful, but seeing it done like this makes it look much easier. I take it you didn't have to split any ball joints (aside from the anti-roll bar linkage attached to the shock absorber?

[@bunnybr]

nockieboy No ball joints to split. Have look at the anti roll bar before starting as if it is in poor condition it may be better to replace it. One extra tip. If the pinch grip will not allow the strut to move a small socket extension, hammered into the slot, will open up enough to get it off. I think it is either 1/4 or 3/8 inch, one is just right for the job. Good luck

[@nockieboy]

bunnybr Lovely, thanks for the tip. :) I'm replacing a broken coil - front offside - which has cracked and failed the MOT as a result. Coil seems to be intact otherwise, but can feel the crack.

[@SuperArchi2010]

Very good job Well on you this ambrella :) this is what we have to do sometimes by ourselves Go with the job and be happy to look forward to finish it in style to drive nicely :)

[@stevebrown5145]

Had to do one on mine.... Your method is different to what the manual says ... However yours worked, my strut wont go back on .... Had to give up before i launched the strut down the road .....,,, plus its too dark to carry on .......

[@bunnybr]

I feel your pain. Its all about the starting position and angles. It feels impossible then all of a sudden it just pops into place. Good luck when you try it again.

[@googlepixel9pro]

Great video. How can you tell if the bearings need changing?

[@bunnybr]

Jack up the front of the car and turn the steering from full lock to full lock. It should move freely throughout the movement. If you see the top mount sticking then that is a sign the bearings need replacing. I have another video which shows this

[@Dave-in-France]

Hello Bunny and thank you very much for making this video, as I'm about to start this morning removing the front leg to replace the top bearing like you did. I was thinking that I might try the following: support the car on axle stands then support the hub with a trolley jack so I can let the hub gently to get the leg out - without compressing the springs. Do you think that'll work? Cheers, Dave

[@bunnybr]

You can use a 1/4 or it may be a 3/8 socket bar. It is just the right size to fit in the grove at the back. when turned 45 degrees it will expand the gap. This will make it slightly easier to separate the strut from the hub. I think you are right about the spring compressors. Not completely necessary. I just found it makes it slightly easier for me as my compressors when I first did this were too short.

[@alfbittner6489]

Peugeot 406 seems to be the same as Citroen C3, I watched a video where the hub was removed from the axel but you just compressed the spring and pushed down with your foot to unseat the strut from the hub housing. all in all very complex design and a top bearing to boot. It appears you guys have a bad rust problem in the UK, every thing you undone was corroded. Nice job, to bad your assistant is scared of the rain.

[@bunnybr]

There is a special tool for opening up the bottom clamp joint. However a work around is using a drive socket.I cant remember the size either a 3/8 or 1/4 socket drive end one size just fits and when the end is turned it opens up he joint. AT 1/4 of a turn the square will open up making the strut removal easier.

[@crpth1]

One simple chisel wedged on the joint makes it a snap. Faster and more efficient than the screwdriver. ;-)

[@mattraven1745]

how long and how much would would it cost to fit a rear shock obsorber on a car , just a rough guide if possible thanks,,

[@bunnybr]

matt raven I did a set yesterday and I was finished in under an hour. It would have been faster but the lower bolt was badly rusted and needed cleaned and oiled before trying to take it off. As for cost, an hours labour and the cost of the parts. I would do both sides, not just the one.

[@mattraven1745]

thanks paid 100 for one and the fitting, was ripped off im sure,,

[@jodonbaker43]

Brilliant tutorial. I Just had that job done at my local garage and it cost me £ 260. No joke hit a pot hole and broke the nearside spring. Had to replace 2 front tyres and it appears that the chassis is bent. Could this be the cause of having to replace tyres that I had replaced less than 6 months ago its costing me a fortune. Can I replace the bent chassis and what would it cost. Your help is much appreciated.

[@bunnybr]

Sorry for your loss. Rapid tyre wear is a sign of incorrect wheel alignment. Check out the wishbone bushes, lower suspension, steering and inner steering ball joints, also the wheel bearings. Check out the wheel alignment remembering it has rear adjustable tracking so 4 wheel tracking is required, also check the camber, before thinking about chassis damage.

[@stevewyatt9988]

that was a tip top helpful and clear video - thanks a lot

[@ihavenousername1805]

Hi mate, great video. You don't happen to know if this is the same layout for the 206 do you? Also, if they're the spring compressors with the square at the bottom like mine you can use an open ended spanner to undo them. Thanks..

[@kiddlesk]

At 13mins in I can see a scissor jack holding up the car and no sign of axle stands or other secure protection for your legs that' are right under the car. Hope you were not taking any risks there?

[@bunnybr]

You are right at that point I compromised my own safety, trusting a little O seal to secure the 1400 kg above my legs, just to save 30 seconds putting in an axle stand . Thanks to people like yourself I have learned safety comes first.

[@junecollison6411]

kiddlesk jnn

[@Georgatzis]

I have only change the top mounts on peugeot 307 but after then the car it tends to pull right and the steering is not at center ! why is that hapen ? what is changes during this service ? But general what changes everityme I do this ? is it the top mount that not fit exactly the same point ? I αlso check the camper no problem with that !

[@bunnybr]

Could be top mounts are not seated properly or a balljoint is away or tyre is not inflated properly or binding brakes. Or bushings are worn. There are many things which make a car pull. Bent chassis.

[@tadhgoconnor434]

love the xantia, great videos keep them up thank u

[@michellejeffries4888]

hi I have the same car and im finding it hard to track down the right part could you please tell the right part an the number if you still have it thanks, great video to

[@bunnybr]

I have just done a Google search for peugeot 406 bearings top suspension and got all the part numbers. So not hard to find.

[@arturojgt-HVM]

Muy bueno, mucha paciencia el Sr.

[@benlee2765]

Would you need tracking after this?

[@bunnybr]

I did check the tracking before and after and there was a small change in the tracking. Before the tacking was slightly out and after the work the tracking was spot on, both toe in and camber. I do the tracking myself with a bar tape measure and vernier guages

[@ursixx]

14:05 ahhh that feeling

[@beko1987]

Hi, Ace video! My ZX has very stiff and jerky steering when on the ground, and I can see movement on the passenger side strut top when steering...Were these the symptoms you had? Mine's done 288,590 miles, so possibly due, I'll be watching your video some more! Did this fix everything for you?

[@bunnybr]

It is difficult to say what the issue may be to cause stiff steering. I made a youtube video to show what the symptoms of mine were. Your issue could be the same as mine, a stiff top mount or it could be the bottom pivot, the ball joints, a faulty steering pump, faulty steering rack, under inflated tyres etc. See what I mean.

[@beko1987]

Yes, it's easy to see how one thing leads to another symptom wise! I think I've cracked it though. Throughout my extensive googling, the steering column UJ was mentioned, but usually regarding a Xantia issue. I dismissed anything for a Xantia as it uses hydro steering, but had a look Sunday, and lo and behold, my upper steering column UJ was seizing up! A good douse in spray grease confirmed it. It's stiffening back up again now, 4 days later so I'll get out there with the proper grease. However, my passenger side strut top wobbles slightly, so I will be putting your video to good use in the next few months just to replace the strut tops (and bearings whilst in there) Thanks, Sam

[@xander6091]

hello can you remember what the bottom of the strut looks like, where it meets the bottom of the hub (underneath)? is it perfectly flush with the bottom of the hub, all the way around? the new after market shocks I fitted to my car are slightly different to OE, in that there is no nipple as such but more like a wedge shaped plate that's welded on where the nipple should be., and too thick to slide through the hub. also the lower section of the shock absorber does not taper at the end like the OE shocks, instead its the same length all the way down, so cutting off the little wedge thing completely was not an option because the shock might drop straight through the hub, even with the pinch bolt in. as a result I decided to grind the wedge down bit by bit just enough so the shock comes flush with the hub at the bottom. however with the shocks now inside the hubs, I just could not get it flush all the way around, its flush on the pinch bolt side but on the opposite side its 10 mm to high, which seems a bit odd as you would think the latter side would go in easier being that there's less friction there. I have a photo but not sure how to send t on here... any help or advise would be much appreciated. thanks alex

[@bunnybr]

The original shocker has a rounded bottom. The bottom of the rounded end comes down slightly below the bottom of the hub tube. The outside of the bottom strut does not come down to the end. I am not sure is there is cup shape at the bottom of the hub tube to stop it falling right through or whether it is the metal nipple which stops it. You could use a 1/4 inch socket bar to open up the gap. and help the strut fall as far as it can go.

[@bunnybr]

Sorry forgot to say. There are 2 places that the strut grips. At the top and the bottom of the hub tube. There is no grip in the middle. From the sound of your reply the strut is not low enough and is slightly squint which is not allowing it to go all the way down.

[@xander6091]

thanks for replying. I think the nipple on the original OE shock is more of a guide than anything else so that its aligned properly inside the pinch, and with the shaft being slightly thinner at the base of the shock, this stops the strut from falling through the hub no matter what , with the help of the pinch bolt of course. as far as I'm aware there is no cup shape on the base of the hub to catch the strut, certainly not on my model ( v6 coupe). the problem I have is that my new shocks are the same thickness all the way down apart from the little wedge of metal , which originally stuck out nearly 1/4 of an inch tapering to about 5mm. until I grinded it down with a file. it may go down further if I grind some more off but I'm afraid if I go to far the crudely welded on wedge may just fall off completely, if this happens I would have to rely on just the pinch bolt to take the weight of the car. its clear that i don't have the correct part for my model, although the overall dimensions are the same as my old OE shocks, there are just a couple of things which are slightly different, and proving to be a challenge to fit. the hole on the shock which is for the anti roll bar drop link is also too small and needs drilling out. I see what you mean though about it being kind of skewed in at an angle because the centre of the hub is slightly larger and the top and bottom gripping the shock. the thing is though its already catching the bottom edge where it grips. yet its still not flush/even all the way around. so even if I can get the shock further down it looks like it will still be at the same angle.

[@shinobi6211]

pas besoin de compresseur de suspension désaccoupler la rotule de suspension du triangle désaccoupler la rotule de direction taper un peu sur le haut du pivot légèrement et ça vient tout seul

[@khaledali4345]

you have done a good job

[@KarlPedal-qu7hu]

Nice job but the brake line were crying the hole time

[@knutarneaakra6013]

Same thing happned to my rcz today .two days before xmas. Road salt is killing our cars

[@tonytiger943]

Thank you for this really helpful video. I'm currently in Australia; back to the more usual Scottish (Helensburgh) weather soon. I miss it, to be honest. You mentioned here in the comments that maybe the spring compressors would've been better if a bit longer. Would you (or anyone here) recommend a particular kind for the home mechanic? I've seen some drop forged ones here that aren't too expensive. They're 300mm, then there's a longer size. Do you think longer than that is better for the 406? Other cars I need them for are '68 Merc 250/8, 78 SAAB 99, 78 AUDI 100 5E. That's all the cars I'll have now at my age; no more 😂! All the best and many thanks, Tony 👍

[@bunnybr]

Its the 300 mm Spring compressor I have. I do have a smaller set. For these really old cars. Funny thing.. I have just watched my video again as I have to do this job again. And I found it really useful second time around

[@lokomot4394]

Like for me, this gentleman use spring compressors upside down. But job done.

[@blueonblueracingnova]

never use bricks pal the crack and drop to bit much safer to use wooden chocks

[@Dosedmonkey]

It's safer to use steel then brick and wood. But who's made of money... Wood would give way before brick.

[@tailtaptailtap]

great video. thanks for posting!

[@LoganHerbert]

Bloody top notch video, really helpful.

[@johnlightbody9942]

Was it raining ☔...

[@bunnybr]

It's Glasgow, its always raining

[@haggismuncher4543]

It's easier to leave it bolted at the top open it up like you have tryed to do with a screw driver and hit the hub carrier with a hammer

[@GeneticRedrum]

Thx man,this video helped me a lot

[@roarmller-hansen3311]

Thx for good video. Keep them coming! :).

[@crpth1]

Thumbs up for the effort, but God it's SOOOO much easier to remove the strut the "traditional" way. Honestly I believe you added a couple of hours more to your work. Be well. ;-)

[@andreasalexandrou4113]

isnt it dangerous tou pull the spring compressors like that? :/

[@bunnybr]

Andreas Alexandrou Compressed springs are dangerous. The safest way to remove car springs is to get someone else to do it for you, with the proper full strut compressor tool. This is how I change mine. How you change yours is up to you.

[@LeandroSilva-qm8cw]

Que sufoco em irmão, kkkk Parabéns pelo vídeo

[@MrNightmare1971]

Great Video, while watching I wanted to come and give you a hand... ;o)

[@buddhudd1054]

limited tools. unlimited skills .

[@pulse6845]

Thanks mate will try

[@flyslideride]

Great job buddy. Cheers.

[@kimogsus]

I think it would be easier to get it out, if you raise the front of the car in both sides.

[@DiyMech]

Well done, superb video :)

[@MrCricri57]

bon job mais le roulement il aurait fallu le graisser avec une graisse silicone anti humiditée ensuite avec de la graisse epaisse brun car il ny a pas de joints cache poussiére dessus et le roulement en lui même nest quasiment pas lubrifier .............

[@dishkadinga]

Nice one mate. Thanks

[@markgilham2453]

Good video. Thank you.

[@davidjones4452]

your garage is the same as mine only a different colour

[@andym5338]

Dude why go thru all that bother for a bearing,?y dident you change the shock aswell when u had it all apart. The whole look as if it needed changing...

[@troo_story]

Why would you even think about compressing the spring before removing the strut? Working on the bench is far easier and obviously safer.

[@bunnybr]

I have tried it both ways. Maybe it is just me but I have never been able to manoeuvre the strut in or out of the hub holder without compressing the spring first. I can do it your way on most other cars but not the 406. I have read previous comments about this and have tried do it without compressing the springs, but have never been able to do it. It just seems the last little bit wont come out the holder. Have you managed to do it on a 406?

[@johnstork2273]

very helpfull, thanks

[@liviano9942]

4:40 you're breaking the brake pipe!

[@husseinel-hajj7818]

I would like to thank him for his efforts, but yeah that was a little dangerous. A better way was to remove the disc with the calipers and pads still on, and hang them with bungee cords to eliminate stress on the brake line. Even the removal of the strut would be much easier like that.

[@DiyMech]

Must be in Scotland somewhere........ it's raining :)

[@aleksandertokarski8827]

raining all the time

[@martinmanifold2241]

Always rains when you need to do an outside job

[@billclark3654]

Using bricks is really bad policy and dangerous bricks are brittle and give no warning when they break, if you have no axle stands use timber blocks

[@lukecowell7516]

All that messing about just wiz the hub nut off and push drive shaft out don't need compressors then to get strut out

[@RuinedPrelude]

The brakes are beyond toasted

[@alexmorgan3435]

You don't attach the spring compressors on the car, you first remove the strut and THEN attach them so they are exactly opposite balancing each other and have as many coils between the top and bottom as possible. You cannot do this whilst they are still on the car. You can see that the positions of your compressors are not directly opposite each other. What you are doing is highly dangerous. Whilst you are removing or refitting the strut to your car either of those clamps could easily slip potentially jamming your fingers or hitting you in the face. I repeat you do not need to compress the spring to get it out only when you come to undo the top mount nut and separate the top mount from the spring or remove the shock. Rookie error. Also that top mount bearing surface look totally knackered from all the corrosion. A pair of replacement top mount bearings are really not that expensive. Not replacing them is a false economy.

[@alexmorgan3435]

Never ever use bricks to support the weight of a vehicle. Really dangerous. They can crack and crumble.

[@I7G]

Good lad

[@emiliod185]

Q sistema de m

[@juresonc2733]

omg