Strut bearing replacement

[@lightningfan1980]

Thanks so much for taking the time to do this-as a novice, I was able to tell exactly how you got to the part and what part exactly needed to be changed-good vid!

[@spandon]

Well produced vid, thanks. Worth pointing out that the washers on the spring compressors should be under the bolt heads not flapping about doing nothing. Also met a mech today that did his apprenticeship with a Ford UK mechanic in the 90's who lost half his face and nearly his life when a spring 'escaped' from a professional quality floor standing spring compressor (he didn't put the restraint chain on it). The guy that was telling me had similar happen to him in 2019. Spring hit him in the side of the face and ended up thru workshop window, much blood, lost two teeth and two weeks off work...

[@tricko2286]

You don't need to compress the spring that much (dangerous)...just enough to turn the top mount. Also, don't stand above or in the way of that top mount should it fly off (or something fails) and spring releases. Seems like you are not being careful enough. Thing could release and fly right into your face.

[@michaelovitch]

The top mount didn't want to move under this specific tension. I've tried. The impact is weak...it looks like it's a huge compression,but not that much. I try to not stay in line with the spring,yes,it's dangerous i know.

[@johndoh4064]

michaelovitch ".it looks like it's a huge compression,but not that much." Shyeah, RIGHT !

[@michaelovitch]

John Doh It's not huge,the compression is normal. The impact gun was really tired. The spring must be compressed to be able to remove the shock,it' s designed like that.

[@abyssaldision5134]

On my car i had to compress it that much like this guy did because if i had loosened and removed strut mount nut while the spring wasn't compressed fully, the spring woulda pushed strut mount away and i wouldn't be able to put it back on the shock because the bolt is so short and even with a totally compressed spring it just slightly exits the strut mount top.

[@JamesJ30t]

@Tricko -- In all the other videos I have never seen this level of compression. It looks like he the top did not loosen forcing him to compress the spring more. Perhaps he could have positioned the spring compressors differently so as not to have to compress he spring so much.

[@michaelovitch]

The cv boot nearly got dead = ) ,i use a protection now to avoid a hole in it. I didn't know in wich shape were the shocks till removed the bearings. When i compressed the car by hand it was not so bad,but once removed there was a significant wear and dissymmetry between the front ones. So i changed them,but later. Your comment was nice,thank you : )

[@marcbaflast7271]

Bravo monsieur qui a mené à bien son démontage et remontage en un temps record.

[@michaelovitch]

The bearing is against a plate with rubber on it. As there is no big load on the assembly, the parts rub together and are noisy. I have checked all the other front end's components ,no play. The point here when i steer was to see if it was easy compared to before. It was really easy to steer by hand while not with old parts. While driving the wheels self centered alone very easily at the xit of a curb even if the is a tiny caster because of the manual steering rack.

[@michaelovitch]

I am obliged to compress them like that otherwise i can't remove the shock. the tension would be too important on the spring. If you look carefully when i install the new shock the shock barelly go through the plate and bearing to allow me to bolt it while it's completely extended. Quite dumb and dangerous but i had no choice. it would have been better if i hooked the last coil but it was difficult because of the plate/bearing. Your comment it's relevant and thanks for that. : )

[@michaelovitch]

@spelunkerd The cups where the bearing is sat make those noises. Only when the front end is lifted. I've checked carefully those parts several times on two tear down No cracks ,wear ,deformation or anything. = / it's just the rubber wich is noisy it must rub a bit when there is no load on it

[@michaelovitch]

On this specific car : The shock nuts are fully tighten down the shock thread no torque,just completly tighten till the end. The three little bolts on the top of the struts used to attach it to the body are hand tight. (it's 20 nm..) The bottom ones attaching the strut to the knuckle are quite big and require a specific torque (i believe it was 150 nm ) The wheel bolts are 125 nm for steel wheels and 100 nm for alloy (wich is softer)

[@johndoh4064]

Bravo ! You've performed a great service for all. Perfect example of how NOT to use a coil spring compressor......SMFH

[@johndoh4064]

in EVERY single way

[@michaelovitch]

John Doh Can you explain ?

[@johndoh4064]

michaelovitch "in EVERY single way" Sooner than later carelessness bites back. This video in particular is the epitome of the word "carelessness". If you have to ask why, then you really should NOT be F'n around with an item that can take fingers off .....or worse. You mishandled both the tool and workpiece in every way you could possibly. Now if you were just doing this in your own driveway all by yourself, well hey; That's YOUR problem. Unfortunately now you've posted this up here for all to see and some dimwit will do exactly as you have and get possibly seriously injured.

[@michaelovitch]

John Doh There are no a lot of methods to compress a spring. Using hand tools is one of them,and having to put the hands on the spring is the direct consequence. Except avoiding to grab the spring on one of its extremities and manipulating it without being careful i don't understand what you could do to avoid danger during this job. I think i didn't commit a mistake here.

[@michaelovitch]

@scatlip Thanks ! yeah i squeezed quite a bit lol the coils are big and well spaced, i wanted to not have tension anymore on the cup before to remove the nut. i felt it better this way here : )

[@michaelovitch]

@hp11208 you're right ! it's better to keep it horizontal , at least you don't loose the head if something bad happen.. i "needed" to show to the camera this nut so i hold the strut upright !

[@bestbuildpc]

I just watched the whole video. About safety I must say if the compressor spring tool fail then your fingers will be in trouble but I think u just did a great job. The trick for the end rod was great!!

[@michaelovitch]

+BestBuildPC Power of imagination I agree about the tool Thank you very much : )

[@michaelovitch]

They are polyamide gloves with a coating of rubber on the inside. you do not sweat in it,but liquids can go through like the oil. they are thin,you have a good prehension.

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks ! No for the alignment because you do not touch to the alignments parameters. Struts are just bolted. Just be careful to bolt the 2 side the same way if the holes are a bit oblong. Push them at the max in the engine direction before to tighten. Alignment is to check if you change or modify a set up on camber ,caster or toe in to have a good and symetrical set up A tie rod ,inner tie rod ,tie rod end,adjustable strut are involved only in this. Worn out bushings modify the alignment too

[@michaelovitch]

I'm happy if it helped you. Thanks to you : ) Spring compressors are cheap bought or rented. You need to be careful however if you want to do this yourself.

[@ZbysioR]

you did a great job there. I was just wandering. I just replaced the both struts. Cost me about 110 per strut. I figured that 50$ difference between just shock and the whole strut wasn't that big of a deal. cheers mate

[@michaelovitch]

It's necessary to compress that much here. The coils on those springs are quite widely separated at full lenght and requiers that much to be compressed enough to allow to unbolt the strut's nut. It's maybe dangerous but not stupid. It's how it has to be done and i can't fix that. Maybe you have a special trick to help me ?

[@michaelovitch]

Yes you are right, but even the brand new ones were slow to expand alone. I made vids where i change the shocks too i needed to pull on it to be able to screw the nut because it wasn't fully expanded.

[@michaelovitch]

A twin cylinder oil lubricated. Don't look for a big tank,moreover if mostly you use air tools. The most important is flow/pressure. your compressor should be able to keep on while you use your tools quite intensively. big tanks are good for painters wich need a well regulated flow without interruption. For air tools you need a quite big pressure but if the tank is tiny a compressor kicking on often it's not a problem. Mine has a good flow and a tiny tank (40 liters).

[@michaelovitch]

shake them too : if they are worn out they may have some play that you can feel. you may will find nothing abnormal because there will have no load on the bearings when the car is lifted. the better thing is to check the bearing itself,you need to remove and dismantle the strut...... In my case i saw a very big difference on the self centering of the wheels while i got out of a curve. before new bearings the wheels didn't came back centered alone easily.

[@dmc16336]

michaelovitch: good video. I'm glad you recognize the danger errors that others have pointed out. One bit of advice if I may, when you have the assembly out of the car, take it inside with a bench vise and lock the lower part of the strut in. Watching that spring assembly bouncing around on the ground makes me EXTREMELY nervous, especially with those hook clamps. With that much pressure on those hooks, it would only take a couple of good sharp blows to make them go boom. Unfortunately a friend learned that lesson the hard way. But again, good job on the video. I think people need to remember that these are not official instructional videos, but more of a "video idea" of what is involved. Also: If you are going that far into your car and you know your struts are old (not you personally, but for others reading this), just replace them then. The same thing with the bearings... if you are replacing your struts, take the extra 15 minutes and install new bearings. Since this is such a dangerous job, why not make sure all your parts are new so you do NOT have to go back in and do it again??

[@michaelovitch]

Yes, for the first part of your comment. But i had no vice fixed on a bench at this time,and still not yet,so i did it on the floor. I work outside, i have no garage but a parking spot/front yard. As you know,parts cost money and this car is used everyday and i since i'm not the user i can't tell what need or not need to be changed till i see and touch the car or test drive it. In this case shocks were a certainty. Strut bearings came next and the steering column's bearings next (it's a manual rack and it made a huge difference : ) Here i did the job several times for the front end,it's not a problem for me it's a job for my mom : ) but yes i agree on the method it would be a waste to do it again and again because of an incomplete repair or overhaul in case of a situation needing efficiency or with commercial constraints.

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you ! : ) It's very nice, seen your name ! The bearings allow you to rotate the struts when you turn the wheels. The whole strut rotate on the top on the bearing and on the bottom on the tie rod bolted to the suspension.

[@Bernievids]

Watched the whole thing for no reason. Nice video.

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you : )

[@wjamyers]

Me too. LOL. No, actually, I have a front-end clunk in my Evo 9 that nobody has yet been able to diagnose. Gonna take it to the people who designed the springs i'm running and see if they can't figure it out. Local hack has been throwing parts at it left and right but that damn clunk never goes away. Cool spring compression clamps. I'd never seen such a compact solution, most of the one's i've seen are big machines sitting on the floor. Perfect for a shade tree mechanic.

[@FloppyTain]

Had the same thing on my Galant, after a long search it was a wishbone. An old brakesystem can do the annoying clunk aswell

[@michaelovitch]

It's just the rubber around the washer wich is just above the bearing on the strut assembly. It's squeaky because it's a bit dry on surface. The part is still good,no craks,no deformation. It's noisy only when in the air otherwise no noise : )

[@michaelovitch]

I removed the tie rod several weeks ago and was tight but it falled down like that. I have tried previously to put the tie rod back in but it was twisting when i tried to bolt it so i used a jack to keep pressure after at least 10 real minutes trying to bolt it in every way possible. sometimes you have to be dumb a good moment before to find a clever method : )

[@michaelovitch]

yes : ) -while getting out of a curve difficulty for the steering to come back centered alone -difficulties to turn the steering wheel while parked -once all front end lifted, difficulty to turn manually the wheels both directions -noises from the hood sides compartment while cruising or running on a bump

[@michaelovitch]

It was. i couldn't remove the shock otherwise because of the pressure of the spring.

[@michaelovitch]

A V twin cylinders with 2x 10 liters twin air tanks. It's a very little capacity but big volume good pressure. i can run an air impact wrench easily. i bought it used. it was used to spray cement on wall by a house builder. There are vids of it on m channel if you want.

[@michaelovitch]

Yes the shock was dead. Changed a bit later. i was not able to catch the last coil with the compressor.,so, to be sure the spring was not going to project the bearing and the plate on the moon i had to compress the spring quite well I did double work yes. I learn a bit everyday ; )

[@michaelovitch]

The bearing i've replaced in this video is a ball bearing too. There are steel balls in a plastic crown to keep them spaced. This crown with the bearings inside is caught in the two steel dishes you can see. The dishes are the upper and lower parts of the race(where the balls can roll). All the weight is supported on those few balls. That's why the bearing suffer (the race exactly) and wear out.

[@michaelovitch]

They are wear parts, like you said and should be changed with the shocks but you can check them first to see if the bearing race is not marked by the balls,repack it after a good cleaning and reuse them. Most of the time they are kaput. I would say it's a part that wear out like a tie rod : the conditions of use and environment of use make it wear more or less fast.

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks ! : ) Sometimes the springs are not easy to work on,only few coils and really spaced or a lot of coils and barely the space to use the tool with it. Not easy and potentially dangerous but no choice.... I know a guy who used steel wire to keep it compressed....i don't know if he still has his head on.

[@michaelovitch]

You have to bolt them following their diameter quality and location There are torque sheet on the net if you want or if you don't have your shop manual of the car.

[@michaelovitch]

I would say to check first the bolts and nuts are tight and well torqued. Seen the mechanic said they are ok and you said when you turn left or right it's louder at low speed : i would check the bushings (i know control arms ones go bad often) that would allow some excessive play and strange noises.

[@michaelovitch]

Only if the strut is way too rusted ,broken bent or if the shock absorber is dead. if it's a cartridge inside just change the shock absorber if it's worn out : )

[@stephenlam4529]

Actually, Mike do have another video replacing " front shock " that was informative, simply and safe !

[@StratusCams]

Great video, that is the right way of grabbing the spring with that kind of spring compressor. Right in the center so it does not cock to one side during tighten or loosen. Good job

[@michaelovitch]

: ) the wheels are torqued.120nm i didn't show that (i don't know why). I wouldn't use the impact on somebody else's car to bolt them. Like you wrote it can be difficult to change a tire on the side of the road. Thank you : ) I will show that next time.

[@michaelovitch]

I replaced the shock a bit later because it was necessary. The condition was unknown, the bearings were the main problem. I did a vid if you want to look at. Complete struts are really expensive compared to shocks only. : (

[@michaelovitch]

Hi. With all the parts you changed yet, i would go for the strut bearings. Like you described under ericthecarguy's video too it's squeaking when you it a bump or when you brake in both directions or during turns. So it's directly related with compression or expansion of the spring. Lift the front end in the air and steer the wheels by hand. if you have some resistance or strange noises coming from the upper part of the strut you certainly found the problem.

[@michaelovitch]

Yes the strut is bad. The goal was the bearing at this time. Once i saw the strut was bad i changed it few weeks later. There is a video of it if you want. It was a repair,a real one,on a unknown condition car.

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks : ) You are lucky,here a complete strut is expensive and its OEM no monroe quickstrut for this old model. The cheapest parts aftermarket : 150 for a set of shocks+120 for springs+100 for the bearings and plates+15 for the boots+the oem washers, and things under the plates you don't find elsewhere. it would be around 200 per side...

[@michaelovitch]

I'm happy it helped you : ) Thank you for this nice comment !

[@michaelovitch]

It was not possible to compress one inch or two and hope to remove the shock's nut safely. The last coil have enough tension if not compressed to make you think twice before loosening the top nut. Moreover i need zero tension on the last coil to allow the shock nut to grab when remounting. I agree with the pressure here and i don't like that but i had no choice.

[@PIGLETTWTERRETS]

Liked and subscribed I wont be would've could've and should've-ing you.Easy to follow and you saved your mom a ton of money great work.No music no blah blah blah this is the kind of video i like when i am looking into fixing something.

[@michaelovitch]

+PIGLETTWTERRETS Thank you : )

[@ursixx]

+PIGLETTWTERRETS and no rust ;)

[@Peppermint1]

I compress the spring by hand using two ratchets one on each rod. It takes a few min to compress. It scares me to see how much you have compressed the springs, usually with half as much compression there is no remaining force on the strut top nut. The spring in the video must be in tremendous compression, hopefully the compressor tool doesn't give up. I also read on a forum that using an impact gun on the compressing tool can cause it to fail, but I don't remember how or why. Just careful, great video.

[@ricksallotment5923]

I agree thats some huge comprestion it can be fatal

[@googleuser569]

Royale with cheese that is fine commenting but did you upload a video to assist help. If not, then what good purpose do you serve.

[@ZakFarley]

Royale with cheese I just use a ratchet strap. seems to do the job fine

[@michaelovitch]

I didn't change them because they were in an unknown condition till this. The handling was ok. New shocks do not collapse,you can see that in the video of their replacement. old shocks however collapse.... Quick struts are very expensive here.and do not exist for this car.

[@michaelovitch]

If the shock absorber in the strut is worn out it's a good idea, Does it have been changed yet ? Most of the time struts can last 60 000 miles. If there is no leak on it and way less than this mileage keep it. Otherwise if a mechanic do the job it's better to do the strut with the bearing. Most of the time they are changed together because they wear out together and in about the same time it's less expensive that to have to remove again the whole strut a bit later The noise is just a bushing : )

[@michaelovitch]

A specific automotive tool. It' s called a spring compressor. It's cheap, around 30$ in your country. It's enough dor its own car work. You have to be careful with it : there is a big tension in the cars springs.

[@MrInternet69]

Really good video! Thanks for taking the time to upload...I may just buy the loaded strut for mine

[@w5cdt]

Great job. Thanks for filming this. I don't have the spring compressors so I may pay someone to do this on my car. Thanks again!

[@michaelovitch]

@spelunkerd They are too expensive for me too. i've bought those two for 25 euros. i don't use them everyday so it's enough for my occasional amateurish use...but i keep the eyes wide open and the hand on the center coil the most i can. the bearings were toasted as hell and the steering wheel very difficult to turn (it's a manual rack) my mom had difficulties and even me too...moreover the steering column's bearings were shot too. now it's easy and precise nearly like brand new.

[@michaelovitch]

only check your bushings for a not symetrical wear and do not change a tie rod without measuring its length before to replace it. Otherwise alignment is not affected.

[@joelcruz6450]

people always have a big mouth...like its wrong this way..not like that...but i dont see them doing a video and showing it...everybody has his own way of doing things aslong as it gets same result...nice video..man...now i know what to check.

[@michaelovitch]

: ) Thank you ! i agree about the method,as long it's not dangerous for anyone : )

[@pxndxlunx5821]

Joel Cruz dude, calm down, everyone has an opinion. It's the Internet, what do you expect.

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks to you ! i hope it helped !

[@poikaa3]

Spring compressors can be rented (on loan) and most times you get your deposit back. Top knuckle bolt can be eccentric to allow for alignment, camber adjustment. Careful not to drop the strut on drive axle boot! Some top plates are one with the bearing. Nice work!

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you !

[@melvinbrother770]

Wow, tha fastest strut replacement ever seen,he did it in 15 minutes, by him self while to my two brothers and I it took us more than one hour to do just one,

[@michaelovitch]

It's edited,so faster than in real life : ) But with air tools and some habit,you can do it in this time, yes. I'm not that far,if i just do it without looking at all the parts to be sure they are ok. The important is the fact you did it yourself with your brothers. You know how to do it and it was cheap : )

[@Gumorisco11]

Ive seen couple videos on compressing the springs and the number one rule is never use a power tool in any moment the spring can bend sure its a fast way to compress them but its a mistake waiting to happen with all that pressure the spring can blow out and kill a person so people plz dont use power tools do it by hand and take caution when doing them

[@michaelovitch]

I agree,yes power tools are not really recommended there.

[@DonnellfennerUCC-]

the best demonstration I have ever seen. Complet!

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you very much ! : )

[@rodxj]

Thanks for taking the time to video, as I'm pulling a pair apart and your vid answers some questions I had. Very helpful indeed!

[@armoricain]

Don't underestimate yourself, boss, you did a good job, not everybody can do this! I was fearing for that CV boot, though! LOL! Also, I was wondering why you hadn't taken advantage of having the whole assembly out to replace you strut, but you already answered that question to vikskywalker!

[@jimmyweller1539]

This video was extremely helpful to me. Thank you so much for posting

[@sirtubemaster]

I have a really good set of locking compressors and I still had to have someone push down very hard on top spring to get enough of the rod showing to get the nut on. They work ok but damn only complaint is they cant grab high enough on the tops springs to fully compress the spring evenly.. Nice video

[@Littlemac181]

Haha I noticed that too. Was waiting for the spring compressor to give and just blow apart. But you gota do what you gota do!

[@oletunacan]

Call me a mad man, but I just recently took my struts off (I have a 2014 mustang and I do 10k mile checkups) and with the car lifted, I heard some noise from the strut bearings. I dropped the struts, dropped the spring, and checked out the bearing. It was packed FULL of dirt and sand paper grease. I clean everything thoroughly and repack the beads into their guides with new grease, all clean. I’ve done this for years with my trucks too. It functions like brand new and I don’t see why people buy new bearings unless their used one is crushed in some way

[@michaelovitch]

Why mad man ? It's the proper way to do, unless they are pitted,mostly because of rust or damaged by impacts because of car stunts lol you did good : ) the ones i change here were from 1990,and on a manual rack,so you can feel the difference after instaling new ones : ) i replaced the steering column bearings too,it improved comfort pretty well : )

[@markgoodpett9496]

I was scared to see how far you compressed that spring. Could have compressed half as much and still got that top nut loose from the mount. You also put your hand between the compressed spring and the strut mount...you hand would be gone if spring compressor failed. Other than that, made sense to me, thanks.

[@michaelovitch]

No,i've tried. I had to compress it so much,and even like that there was some tension on the strut bolt : ( I agree for the hand, it was realy dumb !

[@akaredcrossbow]

Mark Goodpett omg that was insane scary, so lucky that it didn’t slip and hit him!!! He would be dead or seriously hurt!!

[@michaelovitch]

Sorry,i don't understand the meaning of speedy. I changed the strut a bit later. I made a video if you want to see that. : )

[@michaelovitch]

Yes. but the spring must sit right in the strut assembly,like the stock one. Don't forget springs are used according to a specific car weight ,dampening effects from the shock etc... the car you use them from should be really similar and the same type fwd or rwd otherwise you will have a crappy handling.

[@michaelovitch]

Yes the struts were worn out. : ) I have a video of their replacement if you want.

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks to you. Yes,it's quite a simple task that a lot of peoples can do.

[@nitrohead88]

Looks like the set of compressors i got from harbor freight.they work for me.$12 bucks.Good job man.

[@michaelovitch]

You're right ! That's why i replace them few weeks later ,i have a vid if you want : )

[@michaelovitch]

Most of the time it's when : -while getting out of a curve difficulty for the steering to come back centered alone -difficulties to turn the steering wheel while parked -once all front end lifted, difficulty to turn manually the wheels both directions -noises from the hood sides compartment while cruising or running on a bump

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you for the nice appreciation ! : ) That's right for the camera it's quite greasy sometimes i try to touch it with clean hands,i use a lot of rags.... About the plate i don't think it's a real problem,everybody can see it in the street It's an old car and on youtube i don't think peoples will want to make researchs to take it lol

[@michaelovitch]

It's for your Tiburon ?

[@michaelovitch]

It's a good advice : ) Thank you. A good thing is to not be in the way of the two ends at all.

[@crushedz]

That was useful.Saw everything.Thanks.Replacing top mount bearing tomorrow.

[@michaelovitch]

crushedz Thank you : ) So,how it went ?

[@crushedz]

michaelovitch It was ok...until I was securing the top mounting when I 'rung' one of the mounting bolt hole threads and the bolt would not tighten.I still feel the pain. so I had to use the old mounting which meant compressing the old spring-I cut a bit of the end with an angle grinder making it easier,retrieved the old mounting plate with the three good threaded holes-I am usually ok with not ringing threads.Then of course I had to take the new strut apart,from a breaker's yard[cheapskate!],using the spring-compressor.I had taken about an inch of each spring compressor-which was a mistake but seemed necessary at the time. Put the strut together and using the spring compressor to compress the spring to be able to fit the bearing and the mounting[I had bought a new bearing thinking that was the problem]. This was the beginning of afternoon hell.Spent two hours compressing the spring ridiculously and the threaded part off the strut still would not pass through the mounting central hole.Got the wife out[as they say] to see if she could get the nut to catch and tighten as I physically compressed the spring by the 1/4 inch that was needed. As she was trying to do this-it didn't work,I pulled the strut out by attaching the nut to it and gripping it. This gave me maybe two inches and bags of extension to feed through the mounting plate ,and if I had done this earlier,two hours earlier,the job would have been done.That was the everest of that job. Having seen your vid,It gave me the confidence to persevere. At various points I felt like walking into the sea. Got to know the terrain pretty well,and it is straight forward.Definitely compressing the spring was anxiety-ridden. I'm glad I saw your vid. Thanks Michaelovitch.

[@michaelovitch]

crushedz Holy crap... At least you got it done. I know this feeling of walking into the sea... Sometimes it makes me want to never touch a wrench anymore. Congratulations for doing it yourself and for your perseverance,and succes : ) Thanks to you : )

[@KamFoley]

+crushedz I really enjoyed reading about your suffering, anguish and ultimate triumph. You should release it as a novel.

[@poppyshoessp]

Straight to the point. NO FLUFF! Thank you!

[@michaelovitch]

+poppyshoessp Thank you : )

[@michaelovitch]

During braking,acceleration,? on a bump ? while steering ? what sort of noise ?

[@lionelsoto2327]

Buen trabajo, un poco confundido por la prisa, pero ,excelente. FELICIDADES, bravo

[@michaelovitch]

Gracias.

[@onvois]

These coil springs can break and in my experience they do break. If you have your fingers between the coils while the spring is compressed (more than usual comprssion) and the spring breaks, the remaining coils might cut your fingers off. Just a thought.

[@michaelovitch]

Yes,it could be ugly. bloody sushis everywhere... I think it's one of the mostly potentially dangerous maintenance operation on a car. Sometimes i find broken spring ends next to the sidewalk,they are really sharp. The steel is really hard and snap very clean.

[@alexjandrona1791]

Realy good. Some kind of cars use special tools. We need be sure that we have de apropiated ones.

[@michaelovitch]

Yes,That's right : ) that's why i always buy or download a service manual before to do a job. Last minutes surprises are not cool...

[@sreviz]

Thanks for the video. Iam a home mechanic. What kind of air compressor uou recommend for home mechanic but good enough to remove bolts please. iam going to do in my friends ford flight. Thank you.

[@michaelovitch]

sreviz Hi : ) I recommand you a compressor able to pump enough L/mn for your tool (impact wrench). The size of the air tank is not really that important. The important thing is the volume of air for a specific pressure. I have a 100 L air tank with a twin cylinder compressor www.mecafer.com/1/3/air-comprime/compresseurs/cuve-de-100-litres/6/10/417/compresseur-100l-3hp-v-fonte-mecafer.html It is more than enough for hard work. You can buy a bit smaller it will work very well too : ) Thanks to you : ) If you need more details don't hesitate : )

[@sreviz]

michaelovitch Thank you for your advice.

[@michaelovitch]

@hp11208 I don't know what is a tut but thanks for the vid comment !

[@michaelovitch]

lol. i've changed the struts too few months later, they were original, 22 years old 140 000 kms You can see the video if you want. : )

[@AARCPowerConsulting]

Hey Mich you work in a very systematic and organized way I like that! Nice video mate.

[@SohailMahboob-US]

As said earlier straight to the point. Good effort

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks : )

[@michaelovitch]

Yes. I 've replaced them in an other video if you want to see. : )

[@IRENENA60]

very informative step by step salution to my problem.Rear strut on hyundai sonata.Is it best to replace the strut when you have to keep pulling it out or what? Also what was that noise at the end when you were turing the wheel and there was a sound it was making? What did you do to stop that? Good job

[@channellink1]

i have ford focus 2009. mechanic said i need to change my offside top mount and bearing. so is it the same thing as shown in the video. thanks

[@michaelovitch]

Yes,it will be really similar. The set up is the same : )

[@channellink1]

ahhh….thank you very much for the help.

[@michaelovitch]

savinas rai Have a nice repair : )

[@channellink1]

Thank you

[@AhitagniDasgupta]

Very nice video :) helped a great lot for my Honda City :)

[@michaelovitch]

Thank you very much ! I'm happy it was helpful for you : )

[@josebarrios9444]

Squeaky chingadera

[@sl2k4u]

great video, can you use a different spring from a similar car size but different brand...?

[@codynorton5800]

haha me and my buddy did a similar job where we had to compress the spring, we just used 2 heavy duty c clamps, not sure I would do it that way again haha. I usually just buy quick struts, everything is new and it cuts the time of the job substantially.

[@michaelovitch]

lol i think i wouldn't even try the C clamps.. We don't have quick struts here,and complete struts are very very expensive when you buy them as complete units at the dealer : (

[@michaelovitch]

Compressing the upper ones was not enough. Those springs have few coils but they expand a lot : /

[@Garytb2]

Thanks .. I would have replaced the strut too. You think?

[@jasonplatton]

Yes I thought you only had to take a little tension off it? Can anyone give me a little advice ive had new shockers fitted and I dont think.they have been tightened enough how do you tighten the shocker up please

[@michaelovitch]

For your shocks : you have a nut at the top of the shock. When you open the hood you can see them,maybe under a plastic or rubber grommet You just tighten them from under the hood. What make you say they are not tightened enough ? About the springs in the video : the springs needed to be compressed a lot otherwise i wouldn't be able to reinstall the nut at the top of the shock. The coils on this spring are have a lot of room between them. It's necessary to compress them like that. The shock is quite short and the spring expand a lot,is way longer than the shock itself.

[@jasonplatton]

Oh yes .I say its loose because ive just had new ones fitted and on the rear near side when I jack it up theres a lot ov movement and a thudding on the new shocker when I move it around by hand.I dont think its sat properly because when I go over little bumps the car twitches on the back nearside HELPME please lol

[@michaelovitch]

The spring must seat on the plate. Maybe it was not assembled correctly. You can jack the wheel up,loosen the top shock's nut and turn the spring till it seat on its correct position. The end of the coil must seat in a ridge. Can you make a video or take pics ?

[@jasonplatton]

Not really its really close im glad ov the advice though because ive booked it in and I didnt want them talking bullshit thanks a lot ill let u know how I got on friday

[@stevew6141]

I was waiting for it to for pop and boing😂🤭

[@michaelovitch]

I don't remember. i think i used a rag when i've checked at the end.

[@michaelovitch]

lol one shot hazards..... i'm stupid sometimes (often). This steering rod was stupier than me ,she was rotating so i couldn't tighten the nut.... Thanks ! : )