How Many Parts Required?? (Honda A/C Issues)

This 2011 Honda Civic had a punctured condenser from a front end collision.
After repairs the Air Conditioning still didn't work.
The preliminary diag and repair got it working...but then it wouldn't shut off!
MORE parts required?
LAUNCH DIAGUN:
www.amazon.com/dp/B072FHLYRY/...
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@mike_svt93]

Kind of reminds me of my 95 Civic with intermittent compressor operation where I ended up removing the control panel assy. and soldered all connections at the pc mounted switches. That fixed the problem plus fixed an intermittent problem with the vent mode switch not allowing the air door to direct flow to the vent outlets.

[@TheCrazy243]

When I see new video you just posted, I see Honda then I see Civic 🤯. It gave me flashback lol. Nice find 👍🏼.

[@johng1077]

Wow you amaze me with your ability to dig in and solve this without just throwing parts at it, so many shops would just start with part A then go to part B, etc....Keep em up always get excited knowing you have a new issue good enough to create a video for all us PHAD followers to enjoy and wish we all had your mind for technical/mechanical diagnosis and repair.

[@johnthompson941]

Good timing! I have a potential customer (friend) with a 2010 Honda, you saved me time possibly, if I get the job. I am a retired equipment mechanic and saw many clutch coil failures on Sanden compressors and was giving him my thoughts on that, but there may be other problems as well I see. Keep up the good work Ivan! Thanks for teaching us old dogs new tricks!

[@avpautomotive6337]

My 2006 honda odyssey has the same problem, replaced the A/C control with a used unit and no fix. Put a switch to the A/C fuse so I can turn on and off when need too. Has been working for over a year. Thank you ivan for your videos.

[@irenesilvers7096]

Very nice video, thank you. Good show Ivan.

[@roxanneabbott8424]

Wish I understood electronics the way you do, great job Ivan!!!

[@baxrok2.]

Parts everywhere and a scope to confirm. Good one Ivan. Thanks!

[@bettylane1984]

Awesome case! Testing doesn't lie! The root cause was like 3 failed parts deep. Thanks!

[@DangerousSportsForSeniors]

Nice one. That module was acting very strange. Got to love it when you make the right call.

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Ivan. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.

[@billwasylenko1599]

I’ve replaced a few of those control heads on Honda’s. I’ve never seen one stuck on though. Usually they won’t turn on. Nice diag as usual. If ur ever back in the Phila area, you definitely need to stop by my shop.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Good to hear from you Bill! Hope all is well 👍🙂

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I like the dual test light approach to testing for an open circuit. Beats messing about with a DVOM by far.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Must be a TXV system - back in the old days (lol), constant running would've starved the new compressor of oil pretty quick! Oil that's below freezing doesn't like to move very well. Years ago I had a failed LPCO switch smoke the R4 pancake in my '94 K1500. She got REAL noisy after that! Was nice to briefly have sub-freezing vent temps that one day, HAHAHA! Then when I attempted to remove a line to the condenser (replaced in case metal was in it), the line twisted off with the nut. Can O'worms that one was! $500 later, she was back cooling the cab again. This was the opposite of a "NPR" fix - this was a "MPR" (MANY parts required) fix! 😁 Interesting voltage readings there! Nice vid, Ivan. 👍🍻

[@cgsulitdiagnostics8428]

Another great video, keep it up and say hello from FOXWELL auto scanner 👍🏼👊🏼😎

[@kevinbarry71]

Where I live; having the air-conditioning on whenever the car is on is a feature

[@carlosmoreira779]

VIITH. Gotta love the Ivan videos!

[@Bubba_Beer_Gut]

I heard about this channel from watching another one. I was in the auto repair field for 3 years before moving on to an industrial job. Where did you learn to diagnose and really fine tune your electrical problems? It's very in depth This is stuff I don't think I could ever understand

[@int53185]

Set the parts cannon to wide angle and .....Fire!

[@Garth2011]

Myself, if the clutch coil was available on its own, I would have only replaced that. Compressors get replaced way sooner than they should. Great video Ivan. I had a compressor than was just 8 months old and the coil burned up during summer heat. It still worked at lower RPM but didn't have enough grip to hold the pulley tight enough above 2,000 RPM. Couldn't source a new coil so I have a good compressor and cannot repair it without buying a complete new compressor with the clutch coil. Sad.

[@Garth2011]

@Ray Milligan Might cause a balance problem? Our ultimate solution was a new compressor assy (UAC brand), dryer and recharge the system. Older car yes, not a junker.

[@Garth2011]

@@anonymic79 The coil burned up in one area, the paint was bubbled etc. Didn't check the shim as the gap appeared within spec however, on this vehicle, the pump had to be removed in order to get the coil off so, it was going to be a job that involved evac/recharge regardless and due to parts and hassle, went for the $190 UAC compressor. As long as the new coil doesn't fail before the compressor does, we have a spare coil that can be put on the old compressor if that time comes. My guess is, during 115 degree weather, there was voltage drop that may have occurred just enough to allow the coil to heat up ?

[@billwasylenko1599]

A lot of the time you have to remove the compressor to replace the clutch and or coil. By the time you buy the clutch and the coil you’ve spent the same if not more on those 2 parts than the cost of the whole compressor. For the customer’s car compressor replacement makes sense. On the other hand if it were my own car and it has the original denso brand compressor or other oem than yes I might put a coil and a clutch.

[@topher8634]

Most of the time a clutch, hub and coil kit isn't much cheaper than a whole new, not reman compressor. And with the high failure rate of Sanden compressors, it's not a bad idea to replace the whole unit along with a new drier.

[@Garth2011]

@@topher8634Who is suggesting Sanden compressors fail early? Most of the well known A/C systems sold use them...

[@PhillyDee215]

Great diag as always 👍

[@paulmoffat9306]

One of my friends had a similar occurrence with his Nissan Armada. Whenever he turned the AC on when driving, the compressor would not turn off when the pushed the AC button to do so. The button light went out, the compressor remained engaged - until he turned off the car. Dealer said 'Nothing is wrong'! 15 years later, still doing it.

[@williegillie5712]

Yeah! It’s a fix! Way to go Ivan.

[@antoniomancini1794]

That's pretty funny because my Jeep I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee I turn off the AC and it's still on but when I turn the thermostat too hot then I will get heat but the compressor is still running weird I've noticed that in the winter time when I have the heat on the AC compressor it's going on and off I think it has something to do with the cooling fan. Great video

[@georgebonney90]

Good one Ivan, thank u sir👍

[@charlesmiller5078]

Roll the windows down and drive fast, thats what I have been doing for 50 years. Works Great !

[@5Dale65]

Ear plugs are a must...

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Haha that's my favorite method as well... Like riding a motorcycle 😁

[@tallbrian100]

Common open collector signal circuit, most likely a leaky capacitor causing leakage current on the base the transistor turning it partially. I have repaired thousands of NSX ccu over the last 15 years, I buy capacitors 500 at a time at digi-key LOL

[@YouTubeHandlesAreDumb]

It's always a basket case whenever you see a chalky initials on spark plugs coils.

[@jamesbruno5896]

Pretty disappointing the shop can't diagnose a simple open clutch coil! Seriously that's 5 minutes with just a test lamp! Nice job Ivan!

[@nbrowser]

heh also a Honda trait on the 2000 and up stuff...the damn A/C clutch relay like to go bad...each Honda I check for an A/C issue I have to checks...makes sure the condenser isn't leaking and that the relay isn't toast...then go from there.

[@nosliwttam77]

Noticed that trend also

[@michaelwitmer7536]

Honda with no a/c engage= Step one substitute relay Step two with comp turned on engine running push clutch in with pry bar (carefully) if you still have no engagement it is usually the thermal limiter. Odd issues like this are rare. Usually caused by techs overthinking things and back probing and grounding things not meant to be grounded.

[@publicmail2]

TIP: If the center bolt on cluthch with locktite won't come out after all attempts, you can drill out and weld new clutch to bolt, its splined so no worries a small weld is all needed.

[@remlab4288]

I'm guessing that this is a shorted FET and the change you see is current leaking from the gate. Any chance you could send me the module? I would like to do more failure analysis videos.

[@williamhague2768]

Wow. Video poster is workin late!! Clever guy you are. In the day.. only rich folks had a/c in Pennsylvania... Good call.

[@stevebucuris8420]

vac control head unit are a common Honda issue.

[@apprenticefelix7740]

same 90s cb7

[@ismarmeskovic]

Yup,short and sweet 👍

[@markferraro5250]

all good Ivan

[@heyitschinoable]

Just used the WD 40 trick! Windows Down 40MpH 💨 lol

[@ourkid2000]

I had one of those cars. The AC clutch was a constant battle. If it was me though, I would have gotten that part from a pick and pull for next to nothing. There's scores of those things at the yards. Could build a whole new Civic from the scrapd

[@somerandomguy3868]

Kinda impressive of Honda, timing the lifespan of those components so closely

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup time for a new Civic lol

[@bobweiss8682]

So are you going to autopsy the old HVAC controller, and look for a faulty driver on that output line?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I would if it was my own car 😁

[@vinnyc7613]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics, what? but the old controller is going to the dump. proper sleuthing is required...you spoiled us lol

[@heyitschinoable]

Pleaseeee do an autopsy lol

[@Garth2011]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Honda should examine the part with a postage paid sticker so they can engineer the fix. I'm amazed at the cheap crap parts coming from OEM which isn't supposed to occur. I have found many aftermarket brands such as FelPro and Victor in the gasket department, far exceed OEM quality. This is true for other aftermarket parts but knowing which to stay away from is key. Experience comes into play at that point.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@Garth2011 I agree with you, but I think a lot of manufacturers probably have stricter quality control standards for their OEM parts than their aftermarket parts. For mission critical or difficult to change parts, I tend to go with OEM parts where possible. One example of why is I bought a FelPro rear main seal for my Civic from a local parts store to replace a leaking one while I was changing the transmission and the replacement seal leaked, so I had to take the motor out to replace the seal again. Upon further inspection, the reason the seal leaked is because the round metal spring on the back of the seal that holds it tight around the crankshaft was missing. I guess I should have visually inspected the seal before I installed it, but it should not have left the factory with a missing part either. I replaced the seal with an OEM Honda seal over a year ago and still have no leaks to this day.

[@excavateboy]

Deadpool seat covers! Awesome

[@pilot2020]

I had the same problem I replaced the clutch and coil and it was fixed.at one point my 08 crv 2.4 had a recall and as did that car have tge same problem with the ac was getting stuck on and wearing out and it would be intermittent not engaging. So hondas replacement was coil but I did clutch and coil together 2 separate parts sold separately

[@999thenewman]

New cars are way too sensitive. No electrical tolerance. An inconsistent battery and/or alternator can also cause problems like this.

[@iamblaineful]

the correct operations is millivolts versus battery, it certainly doesn't need to be that sensitive, that's a nearly a 13.8volt swing....it's telling you that you have faulty parts. Work on a BMW or German car, they do the same thing...fail safe, we think you want this setting, if you don't, go find a real tech. Design side on the more customer friendly side, parts be damned as it's gonna kills some shit before it get's fixed, but the early mortality does help pinpoint the issue, so no tears.

[@lexmaximaguy8788]

Not just new cars..my 02 maxima kept going into limp mode when the alternator started too die.

[@jeffsandler3339]

That was a crazy one!!! nice work Ivan. Almost like a Staten Island episode ....

[@aleskyfinis1025]

Great job yeah buddy

[@billyr9840]

Nice !

[@thruthhurts341]

Ive had so many issues with aftermarket compressors...a non engaging clutch on most of these honda vehicles can be cured with cleaning the rust off the mating surfaces...as long as it tries to engage with quickly bypassing the relay you should be good

[@thomasdemarco617]

wonders what controls the compressor clutch during freeze-up or low pressure does it have an orifice tube or an expansion valve

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Good diagnosis! Would have it been possible that AC Button was defective? Perhaps Russian Repair could have taken place, although not cost labor effective?

[@DavidScheiber]

I'm guessing that line from the hvac controller got shorted to positive somehow and when it tried to pull it down it blew the driver transistor.

[@WatchWesWork]

So was this just a bad pull up resistor in the module? Probably not possible to fix without board level schematics though. *On edit, one could scab in an external pull up resistor if you could determine a suitable rating, much like the decade box you used.

[@davidworsley7969]

.......?

[@AP9311]

Well that was too cool to fix :)) haha! Well, that was weird fix. I've never seen this before.... that's great to learn this!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Ha yeah Josh I had to double check that one before firing a $200 module at it!

[@TheSergeiFranco]

It would have been interesting to see if the control module has obvious blown transistor on the output.

[@kellyspeppers]

What price to keep cool? In this case it got expensive. Good video.

[@iamblaineful]

When it comes to automotive AC, I thought it was cheap in the grand scheme of things.

[@MrRShoaf]

Another fine example of Japanese engineering.

[@lasegundaenmiendagmail8170]

Ivan. Is it worth it to buy newer cars? Or is it better to buy an old one?

[@ChristopherLuongo]

I can already see that one of the possible causes of the problem is that the customer has fastened their seat belt backwards. Maybe they use the AC controls the same way.

[@cclngthr]

Pressure switch might be bad. I have seen coils on compressors go bad easy.

[@johnaleman6456]

Look to see if there's a diode in your wiring diagram by the AC compressor. If there is, check the diode to see if it is bad.

[@lasegundaenmiendagmail8170]

Would be awesome to take the old control panel apart to see what went wrong!

[@larryleehenry7033]

Have you ever done a 2013 Ford C-Max cuz I got the same problem I was working all right until I got the same problem that's guys got

[@kennethmorris133]

Question for you sir, I have a slight problem with my car, vauxhall meriva b and when I have my headlights on, when I turn steering wheel regardless if idling or rev to 2 - 3k revs they dim. It is electric power steering not hydraulic. I also have a Honda civic 2008 electric power steering and this does not have these problems i face with the vauxhall. Would love to hear your expertise on this. Thanks

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Measure the current draw to the power steering

[@chadharmon5716]

Ivan real surprised about this Honda wow not usual for it need any repairs 🤔

[@topher8634]

?? Common problem for a Honda. Usually in stocks at local dealer. I've replaced several. Usually compressor fails to energize. Clutch coil common failure too. Clutch and coil Usually close to price of new compressor. About as common failure as the automatic transmissions in the Accords and TLs

[@chadharmon5716]

@@topher8634 ok thanks for replying on a post from a long time ago 🤦‍♂️

[@marty0715yt]

Ivan: You need a Mooshimeter!!!!

[@SqueakyHinge]

If the system is in defrost many manufacturers have the compressor energize to help in removing moisture from the inside of the windshield.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I hate it when they do that!

[@BoB4jjjjs]

What's wrong with good old fashioned switches, never had much trouble with them, if you did it just didn't go through the switch, or it melted lol.

[@PopleBackyardFarm]

yeah those can be sensitive.

[@VigilanceTech]

They probably zapped the hvac module with ESD when they changed the condenser

[@billrimmer5596]

That rascal gave u the runaround.

[@rcplaneguy]

Clutch shims? Amazing how a few thousandths can change the ac clutch function.

[@mikefoehr235]

I dont have my Tacoma any more but had similar problem....AC would blow cold air even with AC off. It was an intermittent problem. I was not a big fan of AUTO AC...I could not turn heat knob to cold...it would turn on AC. I had to turn heat knob to max heat for AC to shut off.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

That's annoying lol

[@mikefoehr235]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It was very irritating at times. I wish I had your knowledge to know why the AC was doing this.Now I have a new Tundra with dual climate control.. my wife likes it but my fear is what happens when it does not work properly 5 or more years from now.

[@juanestrella9014]

Good diagnostic

[@DigitalYojimbo]

Wowza a new compressor for just a clutch ?

[@bobspurloc]

$200 for that sucks! did you ever open the faulty one to see if it was just something desoldered or a bad relay in it? kind of sounds like a bad relay.

[@kennethbode2017]

crazy.

[@punker6506]

Ac clutch relay or ac clutch(compressor) itself. For the price difference you are crazy not to just replace the whole unit rathee than just the clutch

[@georgeshadrick640]

pics of the video Ivan peace out

[@aleskyfinis1025]

Yes from From Aleskyfinis

[@leocarvajal6967]

Not so difficult as trying to decifer wive's real moods..

[@billziegmond4943]

Agree thresh holds on new cars way to close.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Like timing correlation thresholds? 😅

[@crisprtalk6963]

4:22. I see the source of all the problems!! That dude has certainly cursed the vehicle!! He is evillll!

[@theejoeylee]

My damn 07 civic will turn the radiator fans on on a cold start even when it's -20f They cycle on and off every 14 seconds also. Been like this for about 5 years

[@walkingman9171]

What a dumb place for a GPS tracker. That will be hard place for a car thief to find. LOL

[@TheSergeiFranco]

It is probably a decoy. I doubt it would have good satellite reception being behind the metal hood.

[@iDIL53]

Question:: I have an 8th gen civic (2010). Whenever the A/C clutch-in, the rpm drops from @700 to almost as if the car engine want to turn over.. vibration occur when at traffic stops and all is ok once the A/C is running amd no vibration when in drive.. Engine mounts all good A/C compressor is good A/C is cold Throttle body and EGR valve serviced Air filter changes Spark plugs good (Iridium) Coil packs all ok No lost of acceleration etc Only the engine somewhat hesitation (rpm drop) with vibration at stops or parked ONLY when A/C clutched in.. No same issues when driving without A/C.. What maybe the problem?

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

Way too much to read but if the car does not idle up for AC usage the IAC is likely not receiving the signal to do so. Does car properly idle up on initial start up in the cold? 2010 is too new for me to know off the top of my head if it is throttle by wire but I doubt it so the IAC is likely the wires that go to the TB that are not the throttle position sensor.

[@iDIL53]

Michael Krenzer Car idle ok when first start up in cold without A/C.. The hick-up only occur everytime whenever A/C initial first clutch in during cold or running at stops or parked. The rpm dips a bit, car engine vibrates then all is ok..

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

@@iDIL53 You missed the entire point of my question. In say 40f or 5c weather, when you start it does it idle high for about 1-3 minutes.

[@iDIL53]

Michael Krenzer Where I am - there is no cold weather like that or four seasons.. I am from Singapore, Southeast Asia

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

@@iDIL53 no way to test then...in short, you are either overly sensitive to the kick in or your IAC is not getting a signal to idle up on compressor start. Have the TB and IAC cleaned and live with it.

[@zx8401ztv]

So there could have been a faulty pull up resistor in the air con controller. If it was your car, i'm sure you would have the aircon apart and a hot soldering iron ready to torture the disobedient part :-D I would have the 20 amp relay and switch ha ha :-D

[@kkovler1]

should of just added an extra switch to control module on/ off, saved buying a part

[@5477harry]

The correct fix is to remove radiator cap replace with toyota camry reinstall radiator cap.

[@djosbun]

Ivan, you need to do a little email maintenance, brother.

[@djosbun]

@Bobby Brady Well, you can't. At one point in Ivan's video you see his email inbox unread messages count. That's what I was eluding to.

[@donnierobertson3088]

Ok

[@psdaengr911]

Didn't see the old unit put back in to verify that it alone was responsible for a reproducible issue .

[@themechanic6117]

I blame dead pool lol

[@timprowten67]

really hard to follow what you were testing.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hi Tim, yeah this one was a bit rushed since it was a mobile call

[@dc5723]

No parts required

[@deweydodo6691]

no Russian repairs done here . That cost a few bucks .

[@neilmurphy845]

When are people going to learn to check repair not just troll very expensive parts at a car or anything

[@dwoodog]

....... option #2 AC delete. No more AC, since fixing it was probably 1/2 of what the whole cars worth.

[@tompeterson3210]

Oh no.A Japanese car that needs repair! Buy American or German!😄😄