Polishing CZ75 Trigger Components

[@WildWing-wl7nj]

Very good video. Don't forget to put a rust-preventing lube on the parts before assembling. Good job.

[@southfork67]

Good video production. The reason for polishing the outside of the trigger bar is to remove high spots and rough edges, and get it absolutely flat and eliminate high spots that cause drag against the frame. Sanding by hand will make it shiny but not flat, and will likely just create more high/low spots. The proper way is either stone it flat, or to use a piece of heavy glass or other absolutely flat hard work surface and lay the paper on it, then work the piece across it, just enough to break the sharp edges and high spots. Use WD-40 or light oil on the paper. Then polish as desired. Also, an area you didn't mention is the bottom edges of the trigger bar where there are grooves where the trigger bar spring arm run. These are always rough and benefit greatly from polishing.

[@workthetrigger]

both very good points. been looking into getting a piece of glass to use for sanding. i've always loved that method as it's the most versatile, IMO. You can do anything from sandpaper to polishing paste on it. and yes, the grooves for the spring were a pain to get to, and the camera turned off while i was working on them, then just forgot to go back over it and cover it. Also, when i do it again on the P01, i will be doing a light polish on the top curve of the springs, just to get that little bit of extra smoothness.

[@peteraugust5295]

actually some high spots will reduce friction and the fit is not nearly as precise to make flat surfaces to any good to this. We are not talking about a scrabed machine bed, we are talking about a out of the furnace cast frame....

[@sasoudovic6247]

Peter August this actually makes sense. High spots reduce the contact surface ergo they lower friction.... hmmm Tbh i think the only thing that is bothering me, trigger wise, on the stock shadow 2 is a bit of grit between the sear and the hammer when it’s about to disengage. Also the trigger in DA could be closer (big hands, using palm swell VZ).

[@peteraugust5295]

@@sasoudovic6247 to me it is two things. At first the trigger is a little to far back to me in single action mode, which I changed by putting a Single Action only Trigger in. Secondly there is to much creep before the shot breakes. To reduce this I will probably secure the Lock with a scren thru the frame and grind of some of the hammer surface.

[@workthetrigger]

Is the reach too long at full hammer down or at half cock? The half cock position gives you about a quarter inch less reach

[@samdoe7865]

Black oxide coating is to help oil adhere, all the polishing in areas not contacting each other isn't useful. The higher the polish the easier oil runs off. Same reason they black oxide cheap drill bits, oil adhesion.

[@docgrit441]

The hammer spur/strut is a stamped piece done on a punch press. The action of the progressive die that punches out the part actually never goes all the way thru the raw steel stock. It actually "breaks" the metal partially. That's why you should, in my opinion, only need to remove/polish the 4 edges of the section where the hammer spring rides as well as polishing the upper end of the strut where it goes into the hammer.

[@workthetrigger]

+Doc Grit agree. If you look at the finished product for the strut it's only really the edges that got polished. The stamping process cupped the metal a bit, so the corners are actually higher, so the spring can't even touch them.

[@docgrit441]

You have to ignore me some of the time, I try to be helpful (I think), but what's a 70 year old fart gonna do....Anyway I have my 2 PO1s PRO kitted ones that I did myself...see video of shooting under my Doc Grit name on KZbin

[@workthetrigger]

+Doc Grit hey, you're just keeping us youngins on the straight and narrow ;-)

[@TheHumbleMarksman]

Don’t have to polish inside of trigger bar- tops bottoms and inside of front/ back are contact points

[@workthetrigger]

+TheHumbleMarksman ... but I couldn't leave it all ugly in there ;-) I know what to focus on more when I do the P01. It'll be more important with the '01, since I'm not replacing as many components in it

[@supertruckertom]

Love polishing out my trigger parts. Just got a new P-01 Stainless SKU 91197... LOK grips on the way and CGW RRK and springs.

[@workthetrigger]

Nice! I'd love to get my hands on one of those but I'm not in the market for anything new right now. That thing is going to look and shoot awesome

[@Dawn_Raider]

Damn, I just bought the Cajun pro kit and installed it raw. Maybe I should start polishing those parts too. I’m happy with it though.

[@majorpayne5289]

👍thx for the video. I’ve learned to use my buffer wheel, gently taking those machine marks out and polishing (barrel too) the metal to a high luster as well. Sometimes Dremel too. Works best for me. Thx for the vid👍✌️ Love my 2075

[@bobvagene]

I've figured out that there are only a few key spots that need polished to get good smooth DA results. need to hit the disconnector nub and correlating surface on the trigger bar. don't need to do the bottom of trigger bar at all as it doesn't contact anything. the under part of the sear both sides (ramp area) is another critical spot. also, need to relieve a little bit of tension on the trigger bar spring. not to much or it won't engage. (trust me)..lol. other than that you're gtg. replacing the disconnector though is what gave me the smoothest da I've ever felt and gives extremely short SA reset..

[@workthetrigger]

yep. i didn't pay enough attention when pulling it apart to see what touched what. i did upon re-assembly and have a much better idea. i did more than needed, but the results were still fantastic. you'll have to wait until the final assembly video to see, but i was amazed at the results of this project.

[@MattH-wg7ou]

Doesnt the bottom of the trigger bar rub on those trigger bar bowed springs though? Wouldnt smoothing it up at that contact point help?

[@workthetrigger]

Yes it does, and yes it does. Theres a groove on the bottom of the trigger bar that the spring rides in, polish that up and itll help a lot. Also polishing the external and internal portions of the trigger bar relieves friction between the trigger bar and the frame and the trigger bar and the magazine

[@bradleys2320]

My new (to me) P-01 seems to have a much grittier trigger than other CZ's I've fondled in the gun stores. I'm not up to spending hundreds more to send it in for a CGW upgrades, so this DIY polishing looks interesting. But I've never done more than field strip my pistols. Do you have a video showing how you disassembled (and re-assembled) the gun to get at the parts that need polishing? thx

[@workthetrigger]

Yep, theres a whole playlist. Check my playlist page, it's the SP01 project

[@showoffyoureverydaycarry4016]

Between your video and the comments, great info. Thanks!

[@dawsonthiago8776]

you probably dont give a shit but if you are bored like me atm then you can stream all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my gf during the lockdown xD

[@alancairo6216]

@Dawson Thiago Yea, I have been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :D

[@jermainebaker6172]

@Dawson Thiago Definitely, been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :D

[@franknowakowski3103]

Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their buffers on sale....$40. Turns a half hour project into three minutes of buffing...IF even that. With better results too. Good video...NOT ragging on You.....simply suggesting a HF buffer.

[@workthetrigger]

If i make a habit of polishing internal parts, i will definitely look into that. thanks for the tip!

[@Avenolpey]

Mirror-polished metal does not effectively retain lubricant. A little texture is preferred.

[@lrayssiguier81]

Great video Thanks a lot for this good polishing tutorial.

[@j.p.4541]

Great video, I was thinking of doing the same thing to my cz triggers. Question, what do you put on the sanded areas to prevent corrosion? I live in a pretty humid area.

[@workthetrigger]

Nothing special, just make sure it's oiled. I live in Indiana, and it's pretty humid here, and have had no issues. I've had more corrosion issues with my Dawson sights than any internal surfaces.

[@boomsticksmith5136]

Get them coated with NP3+

[@antoniavie]

This video is fantastic if you want to wear your gun parts as jewelry!

[@TheAzryll]

I get a variety pack of popsicle sticks from the craft store and use that to sand/buff the hard to reach areas. Much easier to get in 90 degree corners and not change the shape. Looking forward to the rest if the build.

[@workthetrigger]

+TheAzryll that is an awesome idea. I did pick up some plastic tools from Harbor Freight that I intend to make into sanding sticks, just hadn't got to it before this project.

[@takenusername]

I normally cold-blue parts like that after polishing

[@rdg718]

How come you dont shoot the gun say 1000 rounds then take apart and just polish the contact parts . You be able to see and save time and areas you dont need.you did a great job.

[@workthetrigger]

This gun had about over 750 rounds through it. Could barely see any wear. Jot sure 1000 wouldve been much different. Sometimes, ya just gotta go for it

[@229glock]

aaand que the “why don’t you just shoot x,000 rounds” statement.

[@colt10mmsecurity68]

You literally polished some areas that make no metal on metal contact. Just shoot the gun alot with training and the wear parts polish themselves nicely over a short time.

[@rolandgarceau]

4:51 is best comment of the video

[@boomsticksmith5136]

I use a Cordless Rotary Tool and Sesame Rubber Polishing/Grinding Heads to do all this in 30 seconds.

[@aaronlunzmann6534]

Will removing the finish cause the firearm to be susceptible to rust?

[@workthetrigger]

if you leave it 100% bare, yes. but that's also what gun oil is for. it's been almost a year now of shooting at the range and in matches and there's no sign of corrosion on any parts of my SP01.

[@aaronlunzmann6534]

Work thanks much.

[@randyb.5604]

@@workthetrigger Would cold blueing it also help without negating the polish job?

[@phrodendekia]

Is it possible to chrome plate internals to get a hard smooth surface?

[@workthetrigger]

Chrome, probably not. NP3? Maybe. Youd have to be careful about tolerances and coating thickness though

[@traviswinegarden355]

I was wondering what polishing Compound you are using?

[@workthetrigger]

Gray compound from harbor freight. I'm not sure how much it really matters, they had 2 or 3 that said they were for steel, and none gave particle size or surface finish numbers, but the gray will give a mirror shine with no visible scratches.

[@brianx2504]

What polishing compound did you use with the dremel?

[@workthetrigger]

Just some gray polishing paste I picked up at harbor freight.

[@skillet4068]

But did you polish the inside of the spring?

[@Rocketman9mm]

why polish the inside of the transfer bar? do those sections rub on anything?

[@workthetrigger]

You dont have to, i did just on the chance that they'd rub on the magazine, but it isn't necessary.

[@srbrauman]

Is there ever a worry that polish and sandpaper will take something like a safety catch out of spec and thus create a risk of ND

[@workthetrigger]

Nope, none of the surfaces that were worked on have anything to do with the firing mechanism, i.e. sear, disconnected, or hammer. They're only sliding components that put friction into the system.

[@PracticalPostMan_FLA]

Try a Dremel next time.

[@grantburgess3237]

You are nuts starting with 600

[@marlowepaalan2920]

How much trigger weight pull did you achieved doing the trigger job mod? Thanks

[@workthetrigger]

Just the polish? No idea. Polish only wouldn't do a lot for pull weight. Maybe a half lb to a lb on DA, and negligeable on SA. I swapped out parts at the same time as I did this project, including new springs, hammer, disconnector, firing pin block lifter, and others.

[@marlowepaalan2920]

WorkTheTrigger thanks man. Planning to buy a cZ sp01. I like the shadow 2 but I live in California.

[@workthetrigger]

The SP01 is an amazing pistol. IMO for the hobbyist, aka weekend USPSA guy and just fun shooter, the SP01 is the better deal. Dump a couple hundred bucks and some time in and you've got 85% of a Shadow 2 for $300 less.

[@marlowepaalan2920]

WorkTheTrigger ok. By the way. My friend suggested a Glock 34? Doing some research on it. Can you give me some input about these two guns g34 gen 3 vs cz 75 sp01. My purpose is for uspsa/idpa competition.

[@workthetrigger]

Gen 3, I'd 100% go SP01. Gen 4 or 5, toss up. The G34 is a solid gun, reliable, accurate, striker fired, so consistent trigger. And glock accessory availability. I like my SP01 more, though. Heavier, which along with the CZ design reduces recoil. Super smooth mag changes. I find the steel mags and widened magwell in the SP01 is easier to insert a magazine into. With some trigger work, the SP01 trigger is butter. DA weight slightly higher than the glock, at around 7lbs. SA comes in around 3.5, so light and crisp. But if you're use to Glocks, the 34 is sweet. So very smooth action, easily upgraded trigger. Mags are cheap, sights are plentifull... but it is a "me too" gun 🤣😉

[@donw2105]

Soooo...no before and after to see if your work did anything? O.K.

[@workthetrigger]

Watch the whole series.

[@UnavailableUserID]

Looks great! Too bad I'm afraid to take my gun apart :(

[@workthetrigger]

I can totally understand that fear. they are a bit intimidating. obviously it's possible at home, i've done both of mine, but not a good first project.

[@danielprout8987]

Use of stones and files for any gun works, never sand paper

[@workthetrigger]

Stones and files cannot buff in all of the mandatory locations, nore handle managing curved surfaces. For example, on the bottom of the trigger guard there is a concave section that the tension spring slides along. This is a spot that a stone cannot get into to polish, and a file would be too rough.

[@danielprout8987]

"Bearing surface" is the ONLY area that should be worked, polish any other area is cosmetic. @@workthetrigger

[@workthetrigger]

There are plenty of surfaces with internals that are not direct bearing surfaces that do cause friction in a firing mechanism. The sides of this trigger bar, for instance, can and in my case did contact the frame of the gun, albeit slightly. Another example would be the Beretta 92 and the inside of its trigger bar. They often contact the frame and benefit from a cleanup

[@seanbarnum7876]

Wouldn't an ultrasonic cleaner have worked better at removing all of the initial finish?

[@workthetrigger]

No, wouldn't have done anything. Ultrasonic cleaners will only clean off the grease grime and carbon. Tumbling may have done it, bit it would've taken longer and affected the parts dimensionally more. Hand polishing is the way to go, IMO

[@RustinSCohle]

I think it will be better to specify that 1 you won’t get a better shooter after this work 2 this procedure should be done just if you’re experiencing specifical problems using your gun, otherwise it’s totally useless

[@workthetrigger]

#1 is technically true, however it will let you squeeze your ability out of a pistol better. No, you can't buy skill, but you can allow yourself full use of the skill you have with better equipment. If that wasn't the truth, then competition shooters would all use stock stock triggers, and that's not true pretty much across the board. #2: that one's just wrong. I mean, unless by "specific problems" you mean "my trigger is grittier and heavier than i'd like". I dont discourage someone from upgrading and making their firearm better if it doesn't affect reliability and if it's what they want. A worked 75 trigger is significantly more enjoyable to shoot than a stock trigger, nitpicking of small "problems" aside. and it's definitely not useless. Shoot a modified trigger, any modified trigger, next to a stock one, and you'll see why it's not useless.

[@jamesmcdonough9698]

If you put the time in getting to know your pistol and it you shoot it more often due to the fact you have done the work then yes it will make you a better marksman

[@hanss9431]

Not that I would not be able to follow, even if English is not my primary language. But surely it would help your audience if you would talk a bit more slowly and clearly.

[@mackenzieclews4506]

You talk too fast for normal speed, and too slow for 0.75x speed.... lol

[@workthetrigger]

I'll go faster next time 😉

[@AdamMalcolm96]

just gotta listen faster

[@wackeyful]

wow a lot of wasted time botha

[@workthetrigger]

I am lost as to where the wasted time is? This polish job paid off immensely

[@cyclepath55555]

Not if it is something he enjoys....

[@kimballscarr]

Removes corrosion protection... why?

[@workthetrigger]

Because the "corrosion protection" is rough as crap. There are other ways to protect against corrosion, there aren't other ways to make rough surfaces smooth. ;-)

[@kimballscarr]

@@workthetrigger Just Shoot'n ! Standard gun 150,000 rds. until barrel replacement... 250,000 rds. rebuild (at CZ factory just a check over for cracks or weak spring, clean and lube). Surely somewhere in there the working surfaces would burnish in???

[@skillet4068]

Do you polish the inside of the frame at the contact points?

[@workthetrigger]

I went over it very lightly to clean it up. didn't do a hard polish like i did on the trigger bar. if one is polished, and the other is somewhat rough with an oil film, that actually gives the best/smoothest friction level. plus the spring keeps the whole trigger bar pretty well centered.

[@skillet4068]

WorkTheTrigger BTW I finished converting my SP O1 to single action as well as polishing the contact points today. First time taking a CZ apart and your videos were very helpful!

[@workthetrigger]

Awesome! Glad I could help!