Porsche 928 Episode 13 - Engine Rebuild part 1

[@markfranke8326]

Thanks for sharing your 928 journey! Some suggestions: For the block and head gasket surfaces, suggest fresh razor blades kept perpendicular, light back and forth, and patience, until smooth. Discoloration is not a problem. Caution that using abrasives can affect overall flatness and leave embedded grit. Suggest vacuum out the cylinders, turn upside down, and irrigate the rest of the grit out. Rotate crank and clean each cylinder as piston retracts. Fingertips can help check cleanliness. Once clean wipe with oil and cover with plastic until ready to install head. For softening regular residue and deposits, I like wd40. For hardened baked -on deposits, aircraft remover (paint remover ) works.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Thank you Mark - I used the blade of a Stanley knife and its pretty smooth now. I'll hoover and flush with brake cleaner (upside-down) just before the heads go on. Thanks for watching and please subscribe (so you can help me in the future :))

[@gazsuper1]

Good work so far. Loved watching the engine clean up. Nice to see the first steps of progress

[@MrToddgibbs]

Thanks Gary, it was hard work (still ongoing !) but very rewarding to see it clean up. It’s surprising when I look back at the start of that video and see just how grubby it was. Really looking forward to getting it all back together!

[@quemada100]

Hi Todd. Another lovely video. Looking forward to it all coming together at some point.. Well done. 👍

[@MrToddgibbs]

Thanks quernada100 - yes so am I ! Thanks for watching :)

[@mp3229]

Great to see

[@CLP2102]

turn the motor upside down, spray brake cleaner in cylinder and it will wash out. re coat with a film of oil when done.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Ah Chad.... I like this, especially since the engine is upside down now while I remove the sump!

[@CLP2102]

@@MrToddgibbs don't forget to coat cyl in light coat of oil, then cover it up till your heads get back. Love the videos

[@MrToddgibbs]

@@CLP2102 will do ! Thanks as always :)

[@munnsey]

The block to head surface looks good enough...but you can never go too clean. However be careful it all stays true / flat. A proper certified engineers straight edge and a feeler gauge can be used to check for any low surface areas. Or turn garage lights off and use a torch behind the straight edge , any light shining under the straight edge will reveal any low spots.

[@munnsey]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJnLoK2ngKqhqsU

[@MrToddgibbs]

Perfect, nice video!

[@munnsey]

@@MrToddgibbs Thanks, Ended my Daihatsu project now...Awaiting a 718 Cayman in a couple of months, once the garage is renovated.

[@gf04rce76]

Good Progress 👍 really enjoy following what you are doing ... - its worth changing the engine mounts unless they are clearly new, the standard approach is to use some similar solid volvo ones that are a fraction of the cost (check rennlist for the details) I only say this having done the whole disassembly and engine raising needed to do it and its something to avoid.... 😂 ... oh and with the engine out its worth checking to see if the front upper wishbone bolts that go into the engine bay will loosen off as they are a nightmare to get to when the engine is back in.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Good tips! I will check out the mounts. These are original by the looks of them, but as it’s an early 928 it has the solid rubber ones, which don’t really deteriorate (I think??). Will look anyway. And great idea about the suspension mounts - thanks !

[@mp3229]

I can vouch for the wishbone bolts, very tough with engine in situ

[@MrToddgibbs]

@@mp3229 ok I’ll have at them - with video proof! :)

[@munnsey]

Nice work. I'm not a fan of coating a paper gasket with goo. Gasket on it's own should do a fine job. However if you do like to use some, Permatex copper spray-a-gasket is very good and so fast and clean for a thin coat.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Hi Nathan, to be honest I wasn’t sure if I should or not... but decided to on the water pump. I’m about to put on the oil pan cork gasket and debating the same thing - do you suggest no sealant ?

[@munnsey]

@@MrToddgibbs If it's clean I would personally fit dry. However sealant is perfectly OK if you prefer and can be neat and sparing, just a smear. Important not to have excess oozing out the sides once fitted. As bits could end up in the pan over time.

[@MrToddgibbs]

@@munnsey ok. I may put some on then. I don’t wait to tighten the oil pan bolts very much so it might be safer with some sealant

[@MrToddgibbs]

@@munnsey thanks for help :)

[@munnsey]

@@MrToddgibbs Cheers!

[@CLP2102]

as long as all gasket material is off cyl mating surface and they are clean, good enough.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Hey again - yes there is nothing on them and it all feels smooth. I’ll give it another feel to make sure and get the other side in a similar state - thanks :)

[@gazfish]

No expert but I'd use a q-tip with a blob of grease on the end to pick up the grit.

[@MrToddgibbs]

Thanks Gary., worth a try (8 to experiment on!). I’ll try to post a photo on Instagram of a piston close up.... there is a little gap around the edge of the piston

[@factoryfresh9141]

Change the engine mounts

[@MrToddgibbs]

Hi Geoff, even if they look solid? I'll add them to the next video so you can have a look :)