Power Steering Control Valve Repair Kit | 1965-1970 Mustang

[@danielkey929]

OUTSTANDING!

[@johnmmm]

Used a Harbor F. tie rod tool ($19.99) and removed the ball stud without damage.

[@kenbarnes8958]

never use a tie rod end fork to remove one of these control valves. I've rebuilt 4 of these and it was easy to see that someone had used the fork on them. They were beat to pieces, warped and mangled. I had a hard time saving all of them. Had to replace some of the sliding brass sleeves and make the tubing extention housing round again and remove burrs.

[@royboy3597]

As I was swinging the hammer, l was wondering just that. And I just bent mine! On oneside, I thought I'd buy a new one. $340! I already have the kit. So I'm going to try rebuilding it. I think the part l bent is $200. If you have time to answer. That brass looking sleeve stays put? It doesn't slide back and forth? So if I file and gently bend housing back I'm hoping it will be OK?

[@stuarttell7061]

I was thinking about that too. Could you please what should be used to remove them?

[@mikel2283]

@@stuarttell7061 Use a gear puller. (see comment i just left) this guy in the video is a hack and a lot of viewers are gonna screw up and damage parts that are likley in decent shape by following his ham-fisted lead. Most small gear pullers will press that knuckle (with the entire valve assembly intact) out of the pitman arm very easily and fast, with zero damage to anything. I can't believe they posted the video with the WORST possible method!

[@garylangley4502]

Thanks. I'm probably going to rebuild the valve in my '59 Fairlane soon.

[@abuckshort]

You omit to state how much movement is need in the ball stud. It does need movement to function correctly. Thanks to this lack of info I have pulled my valve down 3 times as it was too tight. There are other sites out there with better info. Also the o'rings are for the internal valves you do not comment on and other kits have the seats for the hoses which get damaged and leak. Stangers site is a better place to read about control valves.

[@lichking3711]

Another tip: use line wrenches for the PS lines, ESPECIALLY if your fittings are fragile

[@shogunMR]

I really really appreciate this just save me a bunch of money I'm going to do this to the one on my Ford Maverick. 👍

[@kayeninetwo3585]

Thanks for the tutorial, but I have a question...Do I need to have heavy metal guitar music playing as I do the job?

[@robturner110]

Awesome video. I was having trouble getting my seals on the housing and around the spool valve at the same time. The trick with the socket worked great. Thanks!

[@doghousevt]

So helpful! I'm working trying to do this for a 64.5 mustang but it doesn't screw off like the 65. Any tips on getting it out? Or will I have to remove the center link too since it's all connected?

[@davidhoppes6972]

I've heard of people doing it in the car and completely removing it. i would think in the car would require a lift so you can drop it down a bit

[@heatherbenson3020]

Thank you!! Great video! How much grease do you add?

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Never use a pickle fork use a tie rod puller, also replace the hose seats in the control valve.

[@flying_Turtle]

Is there a video showing how to do this properly?

[@mikel2283]

@@flying_Turtle use a small gear puller. Just do NOT use a pickle fork!

[@yayanabaz]

Thank you so much for this very informative video,i have two questions please. i am planning to rebuild a control valve of 59 Mercury, however i am not sure what the correct kit to order as there is only (vertix) stamped and i didn't find any other code or something and i am not sure if the previous owners had replaced or it's the original part? How easy is it to turn the steering wheel on a stationary old car not moving? Cause mine is very different to turn the steering when the car is parked, however once it starts moving it gets really easy to steer you can steer with a pinky finger.

[@ladypjhawk9687]

Mine is a 6 Cyl and I also had to deal with the extension rod. What I can not find anywhere is the torque specs for the bolts to put back in.. repair manual does not list what the spcs for tightening down are. I realize this is an older video.. but any on have the info?

[@MrFparada00]

do you have a link or description on the grease?

[@steveedwards4495]

Hi guys, what's the symptoms of a bad valve body? I'm getting notchy steering or loads of free play in my steering box?

[@lichking3711]

free play in the steering wheel could indicate that the steering box - the big cast iron box mounted to the frame rail - is too loose. if there's no procedure for adjustment somewhere online, I strongly recommend getting a shop manual for that year mustang because it will cover nearly all repairs the car could need in very good detail.

[@steveedwards4495]

@@lichking3711 yeah spent about 2 weeks trying to dial in the adjustment of the big cast iron box lol. Wanted to know symptoms of a soent valve body really. Changed box on the end.

[@Granite]

Must the wheel be off the ground to get enough clearance? Working on a Torino with the same setup but the tierod is in the way of the pickle fork.

[@annemccormack2984]

i have a 63 Mercury Monterey and this is the same power steering control valve...so this is one has been used in many cars before 65..

[@19598835]

Is the Heavy Metal Music included to annoy the public?

[@norwich93CMP]

My 1965 did not have the threaded on Control Valve. The Valve was seated into a milled out portion of the arm, no threads. Not fun, had to remove everything.

[@ronniesousa4007]

Você é o melhor em direção hidráulica do mustang. Valeu

[@johnnyblaze6000]

Muy Bien echo 👍 Mano te felicito mucho., Tengo El mismo problema con una Sonoma /s10 97

[@larsrich527]

Do you rebuild these for customers? I am local to CJs

[@cjponyparts]

Sorry no we do not.

[@mikel2283]

@@cjponyparts Thank God!

[@metalmoto]

Would this apply to a 65 Ford Falcon? Thanks!

[@Zerogivengarage]

Yes the process is the same.

[@kenbarnes8958]

yes

[@fjm67]

Have the rebuild kit. Where can I find a control valve regulator to replace my original pitted one?

[@den.staar124]

Dit zou ook goeie video zijn voor Autodoc. En heeft me vandaag geholpen om zo'n stuurhuis te reviseren. We hadden nog een ouder type stuur, dat stuurkogelhuis was 1 geheel. Thx.

[@Mr.Cynical92]

My power steering pump says on the cap automatic transmission fluid only. So if I rebuild the whole system should I use power steering fluid or ATF?

[@cjponyparts]

You want to stick with whatever the system requires, in this case ATF

[@AverageJoeandaMustang]

Help I have a 64.5 and it doesn't look the same. Doesn't have a clamp to slide back at one end and i don't see a drive pin when removing from the car.

[@CorgiConnect]

I don't know if you ever got an answer to this, but before 1967, the control valve is not removable from the drag link. You have to remove the entire drag link and take it to the bench. Inspect the rod itself while it is out as it is somewhat common for them to be bent a little after 60 years of use and abuse. Good luck.

[@derekrichard5719]

In regard to post below by "abuckshort" can someone recommend a rebuild kit that is more complete than one shown here & includes the seats for the hoses ? Thx-

[@Maya-eu1fd]

What is the control valve and its purpose?need help to know more about it . Tnx

[@lichking3711]

it takes the steering input from the pitman arm and pushes the spool forward or backward, which sends fluid to the left or right side of the slave cylinder. This imbalance of pressure creates the hydraulic assist.

[@colecooper1116]

My mustang has play in steering wheel and has all new tie rod and other bushings will this fix the play

[@kenbarnes8958]

not if it's your steering box that is worn, This valve would have to be in extremely bad shape to cause play in the steering wheel. Be super careful about adjusting the steering box. It's easy to over tighten it and scrap it out.

[@lichking3711]

No, that's a steering gearbox problem. Note that older cars that use recirculating-ball steering do have a small dead spot in the center and it's normal

[@colecooper1116]

@@lichking3711 I mean 2 years later and 3 mustangs later it did work lol

[@steveedwards4495]

@@colecooper1116 🤣

[@christopherseiler5238]

Just ordered a new valve and center link.

[@davidmotola2807]

when you ordered it, did the tie rods properly fit the tie rod ends, My Lares one the bore was too large.

[@joseluisruizyuncosa8269]

Hello guys, can anybody tell me which port of the control valve is the pressure one and which is the return one? I have brand new control valve/hoses and can't identify which port is which in the CV

[@davidmotola2807]

funny you should ask that, i did the same to the manufacturer that makes the hoses and even they did not know.

[@RanchoNomada]

One step that makes this way easier is to turn your wheels all the way to the right.

[@arcorob]

this is NOT The process for a 1964 1/2 - 1966. If you have threaded end (you are lucky ) and its a 67 or higher. The first ones where a BEAR to change the center link because instead of twisting off like BILL shows, they were integrated with the control valve. In other words, the ONLY way to change the center link is to remove and dismantle the control valve. And vice versa. Need to take apart the control valve? You are taking the center link too.

[@siemprepositivo688]

Nice .a 64 galaxie it's the same work.?

[@cjponyparts]

I never did one of those but I imagine the process would be the same. - Bill

[@ronpenner6041]

Great video thanks guys!!!

[@peterlafayette]

Didn't mark pitman arm location ?

[@dennispetersen511]

Why did you skip the part where you put the boot and dust cover clamp back on?

[@MrDriftonin]

Where can you get this kit?

[@cjponyparts]

Link is in the description . www.cjponyparts.com/power-steering-control-valve-repair-kit-1964-1970/p/CVK/

[@johnef805]

I need the bigger spring the one in mine is broken

[@sycostang67]

Helpful video except you never mentioned what the two little o-rings were for.

[@bergenscottish1678]

I would also like to know where the 2 small o-rings are located. Did an answer ever come?

[@sycostang67]

There is another part on the main body that runs parallel with the spool valve. They go on that. It's odd they don't remove or install it in this video.

[@bergenscottish1678]

Thanks for the tip, yes I found out after I found a schematic drawing of the Bendix control valve, it gives a nice illustration of all parts. Yup, seems like they clean forgot to mention this in the vid!

[@darioricofernandes4314]

Very good !!!

[@jimstafford3694]

could do without the annoying music. can't believe somebody thinks that music is a good idea.

[@1969mach111]

Awful music, otherwise great video.

[@chuckchungus4512]

Hateful person, otherwise great comment.

[@mikel2283]

Useful video, but a few VERY BAD actions. NEVER remove the control valve from pitman arm using a pickle fork!!! Tearing that ball stud out will always be the result, which in-turn tears up the bronze sleeve, possibly damaging the housing. Removing the torn-up sleeve is a major task that WILL turn this otherwise simple job into a hours-long ordeal. Yet that's just what the guy did here, as if it's a normal thing. USE A PROPER BALL JOINT/TIE ROD OR GEAR PULLER -- a simple tool available everywhere that any mechanic should have in their toolbox. Second awful thing, total sloppy finish. This guy is working on a rare original SHELBY and finished the job with more grease, oil, and fluid on the OUTSIDE of every part he touched than on the inside. all that work and the parts went back in dirtier, oilier and greasier than they came out. If you're gonna make a video at least set an example by doing things the right way, not the neanderthal ham-fisted messy marvin slop-job way.