Land Rover Discovery 3 4 Front Door Central Locking Actuator Replacement DIY LR3 LR4

In this video we try and show step by step how to replace the front door central locking actuator on your Land Rover Discovery 4 and Discovery 3. We look at how to strip down the front door and remove the outer door handle in order to remove the central locking actuator motor.

[@emmareed9353]

Thank you SO MUCH! This 'tiny little woman' just changed her central locking actuator with the help of your videos to remove door card, window, handle and actuator! It worked a treat and husband is well impressed with me! Thank you for the easy to follow vids and for helping me save a fortune at the dealership! 🥰

[@L663]

We love stories like this - giving knowledge to everyone to fix their car and save money !

[@any0n378]

Immensely helpful, thank you! I didn't replace the whole mechanism, but rather the small electrical motor inside the mechanism (less than $10 from ebay). Getting the whole thing out of the door was extremely frustrating until I watched your video. LR3 is 99% similar to LR4 that you've shown.

[@tmdavid1332]

Know this is an old video but thank christ for this series. I'm pretty good with car mechanics but what a rubbish job this was to do. Keyhole surgery almost! Thank you for making this video chaps, insanely appreciate it.

[@L663]

Well done for completing the challenge !

[@teamliberatedcustoms]

Just finished changing my door solenoid and this video plus the other two was exceptional in helping me how to remove not only the interior door panel but also the window and the solenoid. Thanks ever so much gentlemen. Fantastic videos. If only there were more of this quality for other vehicles. Great products too!!!

[@citizentex5720]

I’m so appreciative for this video. Doing the operation now. The door lock assembly is needlessly complicated compared to any other one I have seen.

[@campingbegins]

Hey guys! Just wanted to say i've just done this job on my driveway in Melbourne Australia. Drivers door ( same side as UK). One cable less than the side with the manual lock. No barrel either but i worked it out. All about patience really. Your video really helped me out! Thanks.

[@L663]

Glad to hear it all went to plan !

[@rodolfoperes1154]

Thanks for the video, very helpful. Just a small contribution. That screw that holds the loking barrel doesn't need to be completely taken off. Just unscrew it to the point you can pull the barrel and boom. This way you don't need to replace for an non original one. Regards.

[@teamliberatedcustoms]

Just finished my replacement and I didn't see this comment of Rodolfo's until after I'd removed the screw. If anyone else does this, simply start the screw off into the metal case and handle before putting the inner door handle back in place. This will also help keep the metal cover in place as well as allow for easy screw tightening when the barrel goes back in.

[@paulkavanagh2639]

@@teamliberatedcustomscool that’s what I wanted to know coz that plate has fallen out and I couldn’t work out how to put it back, gonna need to strip it all out again

[@willlowbridge350]

Thanks guys, great help as always I have replaced on my 2010 Disco lr4 over the past 3 years, three of the five door actuators. All parts were new oem from a Land Rover Main Stealer, sorry dealer. Costing me around £150 per door inc. paying for an extra pair of hands. The rear door steel wire cables were such a pain to get back on the door handle. We all must be crazy to be owners of out of warranty JLR products, but love our cars so much we put up or pay up for these stupid issues. You do not see many of these videos for Toyota Land Cruisers. Ha! Cheers.

[@L663]

The central locking actuators look to be pretty similar to other makes so i am not sure why they fail on the Land Rover so often.

[@willlowbridge350]

@@L663 appreciate your reply 👍. Sorry if this is a long reply! Speaking to a uk supplier of car components to the likes of Toyota, and JLR he told me that all the car making industry have similar faults and issues as it is all about cost, speed assembly on the line. What he say’s is the main deference is the post assembly weeding out checks after assembly, before the vehicle gets released. Not leaving dealership service staff to work these issues out causing customer frustration. He added Toyota is much tougher at the post build checks than others he’s seen first hand. The ones who sort more issues before they leave the factory. Have better reputations on the whole. I love and prefer my Land Rover Disco 4 over loads of 4x4’s. I keep weighing up. Ownership costs. Between buying a new Defender and pay big deposit followed by £000’s each month, then hand it back after 36mths loosing £ 0,000’s inc. having paid dealers high servicing rates to keep full dealer service history. Or as I currently have an older non warranty car, owning outright, Then have MOT work non LR dealer Servicing costs. Oddball faults. Like the lower arm struts bushes. These were replaced just two years ago but already after only 16k steady on road miles the MOT advisory said there is play on these parts! It Averages 3-5k a year on servicing and bits needing replacing. The deeper in £/more work gets done the less I want to walk away from it. We really do need you guys to keep our “addictions” going and looking good. Cheers

[@davidbailey7397]

Brilliant videos. Thank you for compiling. Gave me the confidence to change my failed drivers door lock actuator on my D4. Great stuff.

[@L663]

Glad it helped

[@williamhickinbottom9373]

Many thanks guys, watched your 2 videos (window removal and this one) followed your instructions and made a daunting job really really easy 👍

[@L663]

Excellent - this is what we wanted to achieve !

[@profhindsight449]

Many thanks, sadly couldn't find this video at the time I did this job as I was searching for a freelander 2! It looks to be the same though and I did it without removing the door handle. Ahhh ! Never again! Took me best part of a day to get those cables off working through the catch hole. (Couldn't find the two lugs to detach the outer door handle stub part) Great video - can you put 'suitable for freelander 2 ' in the search criteria for the next poor sod who gets stuck!

[@danieljones2438]

Thanks guys. Really helped out. May be worth mentioning the "superlock" scenario. Door lock actuator fails in the super locked position. The only way we got around it was removing the seat, door card window reg etc (following your other videos.) Some say you need to then destroy the old actuator. I found that you can unscrew the cover plate and the super lock motor fell out , amongst other little plastic linkages. The cable then finally worked to release the door. If there is a better way let us know.

[@L663]

Thanks for posting this - we have not had to do this - seems like you worked out the best way to do it !

[@BernardDuke]

Thanks, very useful, although had to get the wife with smaller arms to reach in to the second window tab. One problem I had was putting the handle back on, it just would not seat properly. I worked out after putting it in and out a number of times, and a lot bad language, that the long tab on the handle was fouling on the big metal hooky thing and not going in far enough to engage it properly. I found out that using another one of those 'I wonder what that hole is for' I could use a screwdriver and push the metal catch back so that it could engage the tab on the handle. Thanks again for the clear easy to follow instructions.

[@gc857]

I saw one of your videos when the locks on the other doors will not unlock or lock or vise versa and my fix on mine was the driver-side main control box went bad. Replaced and all good now. Hopefully this helps somebody out and save money on new actuators.

[@DarvidRM]

Hello how did you know the control box was the problem. Is there a test you can do?

[@gc857]

@@DarvidRM I was replacing my front door cards (driver and passenger) and after re assembly, all the door locks started to malfunction (you can lock but will not unlock specially the rear doors using the driver side controller buttons) and yes on all the other locks as well and that is when I swapped my original controller on the Driver side and all worked again. The used door card controller that came with the door card I purchased from a wrecking yard was bad.

[@DarvidRM]

@@gc857 cheers mate I've just bought 2 actuators before I read your comment on this video. Would be way easier fix. Might buy one and try that first.

[@gc857]

@@DarvidRM I do have a spare controller on the passenger side and will check the part numbers and see if it is the same :).. I can give that to you for free if it is the same as the drivers side when I get home and save you money mate :).

[@DarvidRM]

@@gc857 I live in Australia mate by the time I got it posted would be the same as just buying it. Really appreciated the offer though. 👍

[@fester.]

another superb video,do you remember saying after the paddles on the d4 you will add a heated steering wheel,well that would be a big help,thanks simon

[@L663]

OK I will add that to the video list. We are back on our feet at the moment getting some good videos done and new products released...

[@alexapps1]

👍 instructions. 🙏🏻 1. Torx are T25 2. Don’t remove the barrel retaining screw, only undo enough to remove barrel. 3. Don’t break tip of the retaining triangle off the door release cable + check it isn’t already broken.

[@1699bridgetown]

Great video Simon and Tyler. What a nightmare! How do JLR make the electronics/ electrics so unreliable? It’s almost an art form. Don’t forget the follow up video on the Tesla screen fit. You know you want to do it!!🤓

[@L663]

These lock solenoids do give up for a hobby - you can tell that by the video views ! I am just catching up after Tyler has left and getting Lily up to speed !

[@billytremoloband7456]

Blame the German “quality” manufacturing 🤪🤪🤪

[@oseubbb2143]

Parabéns pelo video ajudou bastante

[@dallasluke2029]

Great set of videos again guys, thankyou! Small problem I have: Testing the lock before the door card refitted works 100% but when I refit the door card it will not lock and sets off the alarm when testing the handle (when the door opens). Any ideas???

[@marcus-smith]

Thanks, this worked for my FL2 2011. Every step the same. I did drop the screw holding the barrel inside the door, but retrieved by hand, and as @rodolfoperes1154 said, doesn't need to be completely removed. I added back part way, before reattaching the interior part of the handle.

[@guenrocamos7359]

Good morning Following your answers, I carried out the tests and it turns out that the vehicle locks and opens with the key. However, when I use the remote control to open, only the front left door does not open. Inside, all the doors close. So I think it's the door lock unit that is defective, what do you think? Do you sell this product on your site? Thank you very much for all your videos.

[@6643bear]

Thanks for this Simon, great video very helpful, regards mark

[@wilf5068]

Thanks guys passenger front done today

[@hinesmuk]

At the start of the video the passenger door was locked and you couldn’t open it. How did you unlock it to start work? I’ve got the same problem! Thank you for your amazing videos.

[@L663]

Hi Mark - i think i just pulled the small part of the interior door lock

[@ajstigersim]

Lads, do you know if this door handle can be replaced by one with a thumb button for locking/unlocking?

[@cayman271]

have you done an upgrade from the regular door handle to the one with the button(passive) kind on your D4?

[@L663]

No not done this - this would mean adding the keyless entry sensors to the vehicle so quite a complex job

[@guenrocamos7359]

Good morning if we change the lock module or the centralization must we reconfigure these parts at a land rover dealership thank you for your reply

[@L663]

No - there is no coding required when changing these parts !

[@Roman-cm7tu]

been waiting for this. thanks!

[@L663]

Hope it was worth the wait !

[@Andy-rn2xl]

How did you open the door? My door is stuck locked and closed

[@chrisandrews602]

Will this work with keyless

[@MushariAlhadi]

The wheels rims 21"?

[@kingchett26]

Hi Guys.. Great video's thank you . I'm trying to trouble shoot my drivers side window and switch not working(For all doors and mirrors on switch). I have acquired for testing, new switch, new motor mechanism and a new door control module from another exact lr4 2010 model. My question , is the Door Control module box interchangeable with another one or will the ecu not recognize it and need a dealer to marry to ecu(CAN) system? Reason is i have change all of the above, literally everything from another identical car and it still doesnt work. BUT if i unlock car and hold down remote then all windows including my drivers side window go down. But not up with swith and remote.. Thank you in advance.

[@simonjefferson]

Interesting - I would not say it needs coding. On the part you removed from the car there will be an engineering number - sort of like CH52-189j2-aa .. this sort of format - check this is the same or similar on the new item. I can send you the wiring diagram also if this helps.

[@mvirdi2333]

Hi 🙋‍♂️ great 👍 Thanks 🙏

[@L663]

Hello - did you get the new lights i sent you ?

[@mvirdi2333]

@@L663 not yet Thanks 🙏

[@zoharnir]

What is the part number? Can you add links for where you purchased this part?

[@nicholaskeep1605]

Like your work gents... saw the freelander2 rear door lock actuator replacement. This looks similar, as got an issue with drivers door. However... when locking the car, all the doors lock with a double warning blip-blip, but all lock fine. Then when unlocking, there is a clunk, but none of the doors unlock, so have to use the emergency key which unlocks all except the drivers door... So, question... Is this just the door lock actuator in the drivers side, or something more?? Be great if I could have your thoughts. Cheers. Nick

[@dennij]

@Nicholas Keep Try sitting inside the Freelander then press the lock button on the dash (not the key) and watch to see if all the doors lock, then press the lock button again to unlock and see if any of the doors unlock, or if any try and struggle. Could be something as simple as the cable that is preventing the door lock actuator functioning properly.

[@nicholaskeep1605]

Hi John - that could be the case, will investigate further. Cheers

[@rickardlindstrand3734]

I started getting the blip-blip sound at locking after i did this. All doors are locked and nothing is indicated as open, as was usually the case when this sound appeared before. Do I need some resetting of something? Best regards Richard

[@rickardlindstrand3734]

For future reference. This problem occurred as a rear lock actuator was put in a front door. When the right one, however bloody identical on the outside, it worked without any further steps. However, the video does not cover that the automatic-up window function need to be reset afterwards. This is done by winding it all the way up and holding the button up for a few further seconds.

[@L663]

Glad you got it sorted and thanks for adding the tip on the window reset !

[@guenrocamos7359]

Good morning I have a 2010 discovery 4. I can no longer lock my vehicle using the remote control. When I close it, nothing happens and I get two honks. Could it be the door lock module or the central locking system. thank you for your reply

[@L663]

We had this problem on the Freelander 2 - it was the sensor in the roof that was faulty - or it could be your bonnet switch is faulty - can you check that all your doors appear closed on the dash and there is no error message on the dash when you try and lock the car.

[@guenrocamos7359]

Thank you very much for taking the time to respond to me. I will carry out these checks and I will take the liberty of getting back to you... My problem started when I locked the vehicle and unlocked the left front door that remained locked. Then now we hear the sound of the engine but the mirrors no longer move and we have two horns blaring, don't you think it's the front door closing motor which is faulty? Thanks a lot for your help. @@L663

[@comedefleurieu315]

wow, I have the same issue, looks scary to do it myself. How long does it take ?Do you know how much does it cost to do it by a LR dealer ?

[@L663]

Yes it’s a bit tricky if you are new to fixing cars. Should take less than 1 hour. Dealer cost probably £800?

[@comedefleurieu315]

@@L663 wow you are à F1. Thx for the very quick response!

[@comedefleurieu315]

@@L663 I had removed the trim panel and the speaker but on my L320 from 2013, SDV6, it is impossible to reach the second window clip through the speaker. I have to use the LR specific tool but unfoundable on Google or get the window down to the bottom and access the 2 window clips through some small holes at the bottom of the door. I gave up...

[@janekrts]

Thanks good video !!!!

[@L663]

No problem 👍

[@insaneflamey2k]

Had the same issue on rear passenger side door on my 2014 Discovery 4. I take it this is a common issue? Regret getting rid of it now.

[@L663]

Yes this is a very common issue.... expensive job at the dealers aswell !

[@sloanwilliams8932]

How do you get the electric door handle out of an LR4?

[@L663]

Hi - can you clarify which part you mean please.

[@wilf5068]

@@L663 I thin he meant keyless entry ..its the same process just an additional grey plug to undo revealed when you take the actuator and glass out

[@ott864]

I don’t suppose you or anyone else can help me out can you I’ve got an LR3 as I’m driving it you can hear the central locking unlocking itself constantly clicking and my hazard lights are flashing whilst driving, and I can’t control it. Can anybody help me out please. Oh and also sometimes the ignition won’t turn over for a couple of minutes

[@miniman2645]

Just found out my drivers door ain’t locked for 6 months 😂😂 time to replace the door lock

[@OttoHauspie]

So how you guys opened the door when it wont unlock ?

[@L663]

You can pull the inside catch.

[@poeml]

@@L663 in my case, nothing unlocks - inside handle doesn’t, outside handle doesn’t, and central unlocking doesn’t. Any hint how to proceed???

[@danieljones2438]

@@poeml the "superlock" scenario. Door lock actuator fails in the super locked position. The only way we got around it was removing the seat, door card window reg etc (following your other videos.) Some say you need to then destroy the old actuator. I found that you can unscrew the cover plate and the super lock motor fell out , amongst other little plastic linkages. The cable then finally worked to release the door.

[@poeml]

Following up on my own question: one day, suddenly the door started working again. So (after actually realizing it :) I could repair it as documented elsewhere. Now I have a spare door card that I don’t need. :) A white plastic part was broken in my case. Unfortunately, my secondhand replacement part already had a very fine crack in the same place. I used superglue and some plastic for augmentation, and it works fine since then.

[@alexapps1]

Not looking forward to trying to do the rear without opening the door!

[@scotiajinker8392]

Taylor should take his watch off while sticking his hands in places that’s liable to scratch it.

[@L663]

I know - I must pay him too much .... look at his flash watch !

[@johnwillett4086]

LOL - that's what I was thinking - be careful with that Apple Watch. I have damaged watches in the past, not taking them off when I should have.

[@jamesbarnacle6563]

What a horrible job on the drive in the dark and cold. Did it without taking the glass out dropped it to undo the clips then taped it up fully closed hope I don't have to do it again in a hurry used genuine parts

[@HQBProductions]

Well I just hope mine doesn’t go wrong!!😱😱😱😰😰😰😰

[@guenrocamos7359]

@guenrocamos7359 @guenrocamos7359 il y a 6 heures Thank you very much for taking the time to respond to me. I will carry out these checks and I will take the liberty of getting back to you... My problem started when I locked the vehicle and unlocked the left front door that remained locked. Then now we hear the sound of the engine but the mirrors no longer move and we have two horns blaring, don't you think it's the front door closing motor which is faulty? Thanks a lot for your help. @L663