PowerStrokeHelp.com Archoil Challenge

How Archoil products overcome the woes of stiction in this Ford PowerStroke Diesel truck.

[@VIheavyequipment]

Hi guys I have a 1999 7.3 powerstroke I didn't have a bad stickion issue it would always start up but it has 180000 miles and if the truck would sit over night it would miss for 10 mins or so steering wheel would shake and you could feel it missing then stop completly after 10 mins sometimes if left for a long time the whole truck would shake. I tryed the archoil and I noticed the engine was much quieter and started better but still had a miss I didn't think it worked and just thought I had a bad injector but I now have driven it for about a month and guess what the last few starts have been perfect I left it for 5 days and just started it no missing nothing just crank crank vvrrroom quick start and sounds great I'm so happy thought I'd let you guys know

[@besttoy2]

I have just recently started using Archoil products in my 2016 Ford F350 6.7L dually. The engine seems to run smoother and quieter. I'm also using Amsoil 5W-40 premium diesel oil,. very pleased so far. I enjoy your videos.

[@PLOWTRUCKMAN94]

Archoil has made my 6.4 run like crap at high rmp, no speed anymore or anything, i cant even pull on to the highway, it was perfectly fine until i used the fuel additive

[@jeremyandholly2011]

Sweet video bill. This is a killer in 6.0's also. I swear by archoil in my 07

[@jimdailey1018]

I'm glad I have a Dodge with a cummins.

[@privateparty4900]

+Jim Dailey Cummins Unfortunately the Cummins won't save you from injector wear.

[@JohnD6280]

+Jim Dailey +10 to that! but hey, getting a powerstroke for 5K is definetly a lot cheaper than getting a ran down cummins for 10k!

[@stevencash3774]

Will, the cummins is worth more becuase every single one from 1989-2017 WILL go over 1million and even 1,300,000 miles. If you buy a 5.9 or 6.7 cummins from the factory you can often get a 400k+ mile engine warranty with any emissions equipment. Now I like the powerstrokes but when it comes to a real work truck a I6 diesel is the only way to go. That's why every single semk truck uses the. Reliable, esay to work on, and physically less moving parts thus less potential for part failier. People who sell their Cummins trucks rarely ever sell them because of engine failer. Aside from a serious or botched performance build the Cummins motors just don't go bad, it just doesn't happen.

[@broncohead88]

Very interesting...until this I'd never heard of that problem. It explains a whole lot about our old farm truck that's a 97 powerstroke

[@AndyFromm]

0:50 how they start cold with glowplug/relay issues 1:40 & 3:00 idm issues

[@privateparty4900]

I spent $49.22 on the AR9100 and AR6200 package due in no small part to this video (Mission accomplished, eh guys?) for my ailing 200K Mile PSD. Truck ran smooth once warm. The longer it sat the harder it was to start; dead miss on cylinders with injectors that produced no/weak buzz. Pretty much exactly the symptoms you see in this video. I don't understand why there is so much confusion on this issue. I think a lot of the lesser injector shops (the ones that just shim) would really like to keep people in the dark on this. With a mechanical engineering background I decided I wanted to know what was going on... and at the end of the day even with a complete understanding of the problem, I still decided to send mine out. I can't speak for oil additives in trucks with spool-valve injectors (6.0 and later). What I can tell you is that anyone claiming the symptoms described above can be alleviated by "reducing friction" is provably wrong. On a long enough timeline all 7.3 Injectors will experience this issue no matter how much you love them: approximately 175-200K miles of service (longer if you don't mind working to get them started). The issue: The poppet valve and its seat both wear over time and as armature clearance goes out of spec (because the poppet valve now sits lower in the bore), you get the symptoms I described above. There's no way around this - it's effectively the cost of doing business with this injector design. You may as well complain about replacing brushes in a starter; it's just how they work. As the poppet valve wears, the armature gets closer to the body of the injector. That clearance is critical. Without it, a vacuum is created under the armature (cold thick oil helps make the seal) as the coil attempts to do its job and lift the armature. The good news is these surfaces wear slowly. The bad news is there's no good way to add material to the seat so if you replace the poppet and then shim for correct Armature clearance (or even worse, just shim - there's popular video of some guys in a garage doing just this) you've now lost stroke on the poppet valve meaning the valve doesn't open as far. There are a few shops that also machine the armature to retain the proper poppet valve stroke. ...if you've got this issue, skip the "oil additives" - and from first hand experience don't think that a money back "guarantee" is going to protect you - and either service your own injectors (I'll make my own guarantee and predict you will find inadequate armature clearance) or just be done with it and send them out. My $49.22 did nothing whatsoever to solve my cold start issue - and believe me I was keeping an open mind - I gave it hundreds of miles - at the time as I didn't have a root cause and I was ready to believe. Again - maybe something can be done for spool valve based injectors but you aren't going to solve a lack of armature clearance with an additive. Thinner oil can help but at the end of the day, how thin do you want to go? Anything to thin the oil will help... including plugging in the block heater (engine 10 degrees warmer on a cold morning? I don't suppose that block heater had been plugged in before we started recording on this?) Anyway - what I didn't expect was how much power I would get back when I got in-spec injectors back in the truck. I wish it weren't so expensive to get these injectors serviced... but I really wish I wouldn't have waited so long to do it and tried... things I should have known better than to try.

[@AndyFromm]

Right on

[@metalbeast83]

i noticed you said you only did on repair on the truck around 6:40 or so. but i see it has a new degas bottle an possibly a new cap did it have a crack or did you just flush the system an put a new bottle on it.

[@frankie2234]

How about Archoil in a 4cylinder Camry ( 172,000 mile--2007 ) that drinks 1 qt. of oil a week.? Toyota says bad piston design flaw, ahh so sorry. We not responsible ( big grin). Thanks for any responses.

[@Archoil]

Watch this great video from Bill Hewitt at www.PowerStrokeHelp.com as he uses Archoil products to fix a serious stiction issue in this 2000 model Ford F350! Learn more about Bill's "Archoil Challenge" at archoil.powerstrokehelp.com or visit us at enginestiction.com

[@boson285]

So is this a continuous treatment for every oil change? if so, the cost of maintenance just went up as opposed to taking the short term hit to swap the injectors.

[@oil1252]

Do you know how expensive injectors are??

[@boson285]

@@oil1252 I saw some on Amazon for about 52 bucks. My local mechanic gave a rough repair estimate of 300 dollars for the job.

[@oil1252]

@@boson285 for a set of 8!? He must be using cheap injectors. Always use Ford or navistar parts!

[@boson285]

@@oil1252 I'm thinking there are usually 1 or 2 that stick or go bad. If I had all 8 fail, I'd question the difference between cheap and quality.

[@Rem1061]

First, My personal opinion is you are one of, if not the best Ford diesel "you tube" advisors out there. Do have an issue with this segment. While you are 100% correct on what will happen if you use ether (starting fluid) to crank a Ford (or GM or Dodge etc) diesel, your 100% wrong on the reason. I have been starting industrial diesels for years with no issues with starting fluid, reason being is they don't have "Automatic" glow plugs or glow screens. The ether doesn't go off prematurely due to the glow plug heat, and by doing so punch a hole in the piston. Automatic glow plug systems have to be deactivated before you can safely use ether on one, and that is usually such a pain in the **s it's not worth it.