Primer Pocket Crimp Removal | Reaming and Swaging

First I'll show you two different common styles of primer crimps, and a small explanation of why crimps are used. Then I'll show you the Lyman reaming tool I use from the Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool. After that I'll ream a couple of cases before demonstrating and setting up the RCBS Primer Pocket Swaging Tool. If you'd like a better option for swaging, I'd highly recommend the Dillon Super Swager 600, while I've never used one, it does look pretty nifty and time saving!
Next I'll show you a neat tip if you're using a Lee press with the RCBS swaging tool, then show you the end results .
0:08 Showing different crimp types
2:29 Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool
4:00 Using the reamer tool
8:00 About swaging
9:40 Setting up the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager
12:00 Neat tip for using the RCBS tool with a Lee Breech lock Challenger press
13:45 Using the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager
19:00 Swager results

[@kilo352]

Not sure why this guy stopped making videos, i really like his teaching style and learned a lot!

[@philipng6598]

LE Wilson has a crimp removal cutter that in my opinion works best if you have the trimmer. I always use the primer pocket gauge to make sure I don’t cut the pocket too wide at the opening.

[@Espi68One]

Wow, thanks for the video, I am just starting to load .223/.308 and much like everyone else, I have a bunch of 5.56 mixed in with the .222 brass I have, which is a good amount. As I am slowing doing my research, I am finding out all the step needed to get some good shell preparation. Good Video, keep up the good work.

[@murphymmc]

My solution is about as low tech as it comes. I use a 60 degree chamfer bit, take a vintage eggbeater type drill, clamp the drill in a vise, stick the primer pocket onto it, give it 1-1/2 to two turns on the handle, (you get a feel for it very quickly), do a visual inspection, move to the next case. Surprisingly consistent and fast. When priming the chamfered brass it has the same felt resistance as brass that was not crimped. You will feel and see the slight chamfer when doing this so removing too much is easily avoided (I don't remember that ever happening). Most handloaders have the skill and care to use this method, if not, use whatever method you are comfortable using. I've fired a couple of thousand rounds that were de-crimped this way, zero issues.

[@morganlove3576]

It helps when you read the instructions !

[@giannihernand91]

Great explainatory video. I did it by hand but after 20 cases i started to use the drill.

[@blackbear9326]

Great video mate.... I totally agree with your comments on the RCBS tool, it's absolutely rubbish. I use the Lyman case prep station. Which is brilliant. Stay safe. Happy safe reloading. 👍🏼🇬🇧

[@1stFlyingeagle]

I bought and love Hornady 050160 Lock-N-Load Case Prep Trio, then bought swaging reamers. I can sit at the kitchen counter, watch tv and work on primer pockets. Some loading parts are almost brainless tasks, so I want to make them as painless as possible and get good results.

[@phild8095]

I started with a Lyman pocket reamer for about 8 bucks a couple years ago. It is like a screwdriver, but the Lyman multitool the head is removable and I chucked it up in a drill. During a large run of 223 brass my hand cramped and I said I may be cheap, but I'm not stupid. So I bought the Lee ram swage. I find the Lee ram swage easy to adjust, with repeatable precision and easier and much faster than reaming with a drill or by hand. One of the best 40 bucks I've ever spent.

[@meintjiesj]

Update on your video, some Hornady brass also have crimps. And you need a lot more pressure to deprime them, as I found out when I pushed the rod out a few times and had to tighten the holding nut a lot more.

[@dchmtl1]

I swage thousands of 233/5.56 cases. I use the RCBS Bench swager. I can do 120 rounds in 10 mins. It works very well.

[@2pugman]

After buying other systems to remove the crimp, I finally bought the RCBS swager die set.

[@bmjcllc]

I have the RCBS Bench swager and have tried to remove the crimps. I have even run it through the tool multiple times, adjusting, etc and primers are still getting smashed afterwards. Wondering if the swaging piece is defective from RCBS. Any thoughts?

[@dchmtl1]

@@bmjcllc i would make sure the case is squarely on the spindle and adjust it so that about 1/8 to 1/16 inch is between them spindle end and swaging end. . that's all there is to it.

[@owned323]

While I love RCBS tools and own a lot of them for primer pocket swaging I went with the Franklin Arsenal primer pocket swager and it allows for a lot faster swaging and does an excellent job of getting rid of that crimp. Granted I want from using a deburring/chamfering tool to ream primer pockets by hand to using the swage, so quite the jump for me.

[@mikehenthorn1778]

I use a drill bit or a champhor tool. Put a nice bevel on them. One point if you are holding case in your hand and the case catches and spins you will want stitches. Ask me how I know. Lol

[@TheDkb427]

Yeah I'm sitting here with band-aids on my fingers from making 300 blackout brass last night lol. Brass prep sucks big floppy donkey D#$@... Lol

[@iamcondescending]

Got some Hornaday rounds that had the ring crimp on it, didn't realize until after I had cleaned/reloaded the brass. I was able to deprime and reprime it no issues.

[@FLIGHT762]

Late to the game here, but for those that want to use a cutter for removing the crimp, the best cutter on the market today is the RCBS primer crimp cutter. I've used the Hornady, Lyman & Forster. The RCBS by far cuts the crimp better than any of the others I've listed. I thread the cutter into a 8/32 tool holder in a drill in a padded vice. Takes 2 seconds per case. Drop the finished case into a 5 Gal. bucket and continue. Fast method.

[@charleshetrick3152]

If you pick up a Giraud Super trimmer and the meplat trimmer you can easily adapt the RCBS crimp removers and go super fast. I have the Dillon and if you practice you can go pretty fast and set up a box to catch brass as it is flung off of the stabilizing rod.

[@jimdunkle4823]

I been using a hand and a drill ream. After watching I know I am going to order the Franklin swage!! I think you would get a more consistent primer pocket. And price is about $40 more (at midway) for the Franklin, over the rcbs die, but it's a life time buy!!!

[@castloader1715]

For those interested in getting serious about handloading, a mini-lathe becomes very handy. Not only can you use it for various aspects of case prep, you can make reloading tools such as bullet comparators, modified cases for OAL gauges, replacement decapping pins and many other round tools depending on your skill level. There are those who even make their own dies. I’ve made all kinds of punches for various uses. It’s not for everyone, but great for some.

[@blackbear9326]

For those interested in serious safe reloading, I sincerely hope they ignore this stupid comment.

[@redrustyhill2]

​@@blackbear9326if you think a lathe is "unsafe" you beling in a padded cell.

[@AKFF320]

If you think you need a lathe to be serious about reloading you "belong" in a padded cell.

[@jdoerr779]

@@AKFF320Lmfao he never said you need one. He said they are handy. Pretty easy to win debates when you get to choose what the other guy says lol

[@richardkut3976]

Thanks for the early heads up.

[@ivobiancucci4528]

Nice video no flashy intro or loud music

[@jasonlopez4855]

Very good video nice job.

[@Hisslave1]

A lot of Federal .223/5.56 factory ammo of late had crimped primers. Set in a drill press, the reamer takes about two seconds to complete a case.

[@bustabass9025]

The Lee ram pocket swaging die is the way to go. It is quick, simple, and effective. More importantly you don't have to use your hand to apply pressure in a counter-force to a spinning drill chuck! Which is not my idea of anything I want to do 100+ times. It's also foolproof. You don't risk ruining a case by over reaming with some type of cutting tool, or a lack of concentricity in the pocket due to any uneven removal of material. Add to that a price of around $30 and it's a no-brainer for the serious handloader.

[@47plymouth]

I've used the RCBS pocket swager. I'd say it works ok, but the biggest gotcha is putting too much pressure on the tool, It will bend (s-curve) the backing rod that fits inside the case. You have to follow the instructions , and use hand feel to keep from bending the rod.

[@ewetho]

I like the swage as there is no material removed! Also lube swage with Imperial Sizing Wax between each case.

[@Physics072]

Why would you want to remove material when you can just push it back where it came from? The swage looks easier too once set.

[@jamespollard1670]

Good stuff .

[@russellkeeling4387]

It's pretty easy to do that with your deburring and reaming tool by hand. I've done it a lot.

[@Jeff_Seely]

This is another very well-covered topic, thank you! I'm new too 5.56 and I was thinking of going down to my local Academy and buy a couple of Winchester M855 Green Tip boxes. I was hoping to avoid having to deal with reloading 5.56 that has been primer crimped. Do you know if this variety has a factory-crimped primer? I have the exact Lyman to that you showcased, so I am equipped to do them but was hoping to avoid it if possible. Thanks!

[@col.callan7961]

Wow, thx, 60 years old and learnt something decent today.

[@healer378]

Really Thankyou.

[@Gunners_Mate_Guns]

FWIW, the reason that you're having so much trouble getting the swage right is because you need to do the following first: 1) Too many people (yourself included) go and resize/deprime the brass before using it, leaving the neck reduced in diameter to the point that getting it onto the rod is much harder. Instead, use a universal decapper to knock out the primer, which leaves the neck much easier to get onto the rod since it is left as it was, expanded slightly from having been fired. 2) Take the rod and leave it at its highest position within the die, not screwed down deeper. 3) Only screw in the die just enough to stay in place, put a case with crimp onto the rod, then take the ram all the way up. 4) With the ram all the way up, screw the die down by hand until it makes firm contact with the case. 5) Lower the ram all the way, screw down the die 1/4 turn, then lock down its lock ring. 6) Make a test swage on the brass now, operating it as you normally would. 7) Carefully examine this first case's primer pocket to determine whether it is enough, and if not, RCBS themselves recommends that the die be turned in an additional 1/4 turn, then repeating the process 1/4 turn at a time until it gets the proper results.

[@pete7413]

I'll add one more point. Mount the press to a solid work bench.

[@Gunners_Mate_Guns]

@@pete7413Having the press properly mounted to a rigid bench makes a huge difference for the better with all aspects of reloading.

[@pete7413]

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns Agree, that's why I mentioned it.

[@BigDaddy-ms7gm]

There isn't a problem with the "cheap Lee press", it's your cheap bench that's flexing. Also, try removing primers and any crimp first, then run the other operations.

[@nellinecronje6911]

Have you tried the Lee Ram Swage yet? I'd like to hear your thoughts on that.

[@TheHonestlySneakyGamer]

for RCBS swager, aren't you supposed to thread the center shaft all the way into the body, until the thread stops? well thats what rcbs instruction video said to do....

[@Munndyosrs]

To setup the RCBS swager use a non crimped case to set the depth properly. The uncrimped case will set on the swaging nipple at the correct depth, because it doesnt have a crimp in the way. Doing this will ensure you dont make your primer pockets too large or not move enough material. Just sharing the way I do it.

[@Munndyosrs]

Also a small primer "go, no-go" gauge is almost essential when setting up a swager.

[@johnwallace7694]

Ive had the RCBS since the late 90's , The " high tensile strength" threaded rod lol , Following instructions , It mushrooms the end of the rod , And / or bends the rod , I love RCBS but im ready to give up on this tool .

[@gscotty311]

The crimp that you referred to as a '4 segmented' crimp is called a 'staked' crimp.

[@jeffjohnson1861]

I do 2 seconds with a #2 Phillips bit in a drill on high speed.

[@TheDkb427]

What does that do to the web? The middle around the flash hole? I know the lee cutter I have is designed to not cut in but out. Way easier than using the chamfering tool like I was. I'm just super cheap and the reamer tool was like $5 vs $100 for a swage tool. Especially now yo. Shit is crazy expensive!!!

[@maugarcia2260]

Si no tengo la herramienta, como puedo quitar el primer?

[@Billbobaker]

Use some super grip rubber faced gloves.. it's so easy that way.

[@David_Quinn_Photography]

Welp looks like LEE dies are not doing it, I drop my resized brass in the Hornady gage and the primer pocket is sticking outside the tolerance

[@lucky-rowe2623]

Thanks. So do this before cleaning?

[@diyreloading]

Hey there! Just now getting to comments haha. Yes, ideally you'd remove the crimp before you clean brass if you're reaming. If you swage it really won't matter whether it's before or after cleaning.

[@lucky-rowe2623]

@@diyreloading Thanks

[@sarjanbag1108]

lndia,bharat,👏👏

[@SA-lr1sf]

Could you please make a tool kit for holding the brass?

[@TheDkb427]

Dude I dunno how many times I cut my left hand holding lubed brass that spun in my drill and cut my finger!!!! There needs to be an insert you can put cases in neck first! A neck holder maybe. Just did some 300 blackout cases I cut down from lake city brass and have band-aids on my finger lol. Fun times

[@luvtahandload7692]

Try using a spark plug pliers. They have rubber coated jaws. If it isn't comfortable, bend the jaws until it is.

[@Majeskty]

Lyman prep center works well and keep eye on pricing you can pick it up for $100-120 when on sale. Don’t have to use drill, motor build in to the kit, just give the case a twist when removing the crimp. I have the RCBS crimp remover for my RCBS Rock chucker that will swage (pressing to the side) the crimp. There are other prepping center and comes down to how much you would like to spend. KZbin has most of the video’s for the various methods and devices. I did a couple hundred 223 rounds with he Lyman and worked fast and quick. Best to all!

[@boricuaarecibo9259]

I wouldn't set the drill too drill set the drill to a lower setting

[@anthony695067]

Are you still making videos?

[@timhatchett7048]

Mine works great I think it’s not made for your press . But good video on the other method

[@michaeldunn150]

need to get a no go/go primer gauge

[@diyreloading]

When I made this I didn't have one- but someone on Rumble mentioned the same thing and I bought one immediately. It makes things a LOT easier for sure! :) I might give swaging another go...

[@holden3315]

This dude is like the Mr rodgers of reloading.. narrating and shit…. Dudes pry mid 40’s in mah and dads basement! Good content tho ya goof!

[@nunyabusiness3082]

Nails!! Cut them!

[@jaredloveland5314]

This drill technique very horrible way to swage brass most likely will give you an uneven or loose primer pocket use the correct tool swage method is much more reliable

[@Canadahiker]

Agreed I have had primers walk on me by going a hair too deep removing a crimp on 7.62 NATO brass by hand

[@StuninRub]

Doesn't matter you are just cutting the crimp off.

[@gwcracker]

Please do learn to do what you are showing before you attempt to show someone else..

[@casey31373]

It's swaging not sweging.

[@AKFF320]

Your removing too much

[@leonardbletcher6675]

Yawn.....

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

Instead of calling the lee press cheap. Call it cost-effective. Why did you buy it? When I finally said I needed a heavy-duty single stage, I tested lee and Rock chucker. Rock chucker one, and I have never been disappointed with it.