Prius Brake Bleed no Scantool

[@vladt6501]

Thank you for this video for such simple and effective way to bleed the brake lines. It helped a lot. As I noticed, I just used the carpenter's clamp to depress the pedal. The handle on the clamp should be turned around 180 degrees and it works very well. Good luck to all DIY enthusiasts!

[@Mrelectric423]

Nice tip!!

[@halfnew3086]

Not only a great video, but you kindly take your own time out to respond to all questions asked and for that, it is very much appreciated.🙏

[@mariusavci1451]

I replaced a front brake hose and used this method and it worked absolutely great! Thank you so much Mr. Electric

[@jamie_marie_]

Replaced the brake actuator on my 2009 Prius and used this video to bleed the brakes with no scan tool. Worked perfectly! Thank you!

[@justinl6201]

My actuator just went out in my 08 Prius. Did you have to take it in and have them use a computer to program it? I see some people saying as long as the part number matches you should be able to put it in with no issues other people saying you have to take it in and have them program it.

[@TimothyStewardministrymoments]

This video was so much better than the other videos, and only took a few minutes and worked great. Thank you!

[@عليالحارثي-ل9ر]

Your method worked perfectly in the ES300h 2018. It is much easier and faster than the normal method with non hybrid vehicles.

[@user-pk3hm9db6v]

It worked on my Lexus rx400h. Thank you soooooo much. I was kinda freaking out after replacing calipers, rotors and pads all the way around to find out I was dead in the water until I bought a $200 scan tool. Thank you!!

[@paulcrescenti5581]

Wow. This is sooooo much of a time saver and simplifies this process on the Prius. If I followed your demo correctly, this is my written summary of the process you demonstrated as I understand it: 1. Cycle Engine on then turn off.
2. Key near/in vehicle.
3. Bleed bottle attached.
4. Open bleed valve. 5. Depress and hold down brake pedal. 6. ABS Pump should activate, bleeding brakes.
7. Close bleed valve (ABS Pump stops).
8. Top off reservoir.

[@IlyaBourim]

Thank you for this. What is the sequence for bleeding? Passenger rear first?

[@paulcrescenti5581]

@@IlyaBourim This is not my video, just my write up above. I would do the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder first which would be the passenger rear. Work back toward the master cylinder until each one shows clean fluid.

[@miraclesmolley1]

@@paulcrescenti5581 Start from the farthest to nearest last, distance sequence from ABS actuator pump are recommended!

[@GaryMarkowski]

This technique worked for me, however I had some screw ups along the way. For 2 days in a row, when I pressed the brake pedal to start the car, I noticed the brake pedal dropped a bit twice. On the 2nd day, the ABS light was lit on the dash, and the car would not start. I decided to replace the brake fluid to bleed all the bubbles out to see if this would fix my problem. So far this seems to have worked. 1) I used a vacuum pump kit to suck most of the fluid out of the reservoir, below the lower line. I then filled the reservoir up to the max line, and placed the cover loosely onto the reservoir. 2) I did this one tire at a time, using the factory jack. I started by removing the left rear tire (furthest from the ABS actuator). 3) With the car off, I broke free the bleeder nut, and retightened it. I attached a hose to the bleeder nut, letting the hose fall down into a bottle. I loosened the bleeder nut about 1/5th of a turn. Without starting the car and without opening the driver door, I inserted a 1 1/2 foot board between the driver seat and the brake pedal. This lit the rear tail lights and also activated the ABS actuator. It turned on for about 5 seconds, off for 3 seconds, and back on for 5 seconds, and repeated. I let it run for about 40 seconds, and then closed the bleeder nut. This flushed that brake line. I tightened the bleeder nut, and put the tire back on. I didn't notice this at the time, but I think this drained the 12v battery. 4) I started the car and turned it around in my garage. I removed the right rear tire, and attempted to perform this same procedure, but I did not hear the ABS actuator turn on. I suspect my old 12v battery did not have enough juice to turn on the ABS actuator. As a workaround, I used a vacuum pump to manually suck the brake fluid out of the caliper. I found I had to insert a board between the driver seat and the brake pedal, to allow the fluid to be sucked out of the caliper bleeder nut. Even though the ABS actuator was not being turned on, this allowed the fluid to be sucked out. I charged my dead battery overnight. 5) The next day, I connected the charged up battery. I noticed the ABS light was lit on the dash. It would not turn off. 6) These steps work for one wheel. Disconnect the battery and charge it up. Connect the battery to the car without turning the car on. Jack up the car, and remove the tire. Ensure the brake fluid is filled to the max line in the reservoir. Attach a hose from the bleeder nut into a jar. Loosen the bleeder nut 1/5th turn. With the car off, with the FOB nearby, insert a board between the driver seat and the brake pedal. This will turn the ABS actuator on, and will drain fluid into the jar. After about 20 seconds, tighten the bleeder nut. Remove the board that is pressing on the brake pedal. After doing this, check the voltage of the battery. On my car, it drained the battery to about 12 volts, so I started the car to charge the battery back up. 7) I then did the next tire. So if you have enough battery voltage, this technique works. 8) Clearing the OBD2 codes will not turn off the ABS light. Removing the battery leads will not reset the ABS light either. That being said, there is a way to reset the ABS light on a 2nd gen Prius. Find the OBD2 port under the dash below your right knee. When looking up at it you will find a connector with 2 rows of 8 pins each. Connect a jumper between pin 4 (CG pin) and pin 13 (TC pin) on the OBD2 connector. Starting at the top row reading from left to right, pin 4 would be the pin 4 pins away from the left on top row. On bottom row pin 13 would be 4 pins from the right on bottom row. Connect the two pins using a small paper clip, then start the car putting the car into ready mode. It will start blinking the ABS light on the dash and the touch screen display will not look normal. Press the brake pedal 8 times or more in 5 seconds after turning the car into ready mode. Turn off the car and remove jumper. The ABS light will not be on. This procedure only resets the light, not the underlying problem. If the original fault is not repaired the light will come on again. In my case I did a brake job on the car and the abs light came on because I moved the piston back in the caliper. The abs system detected a pressure difference between wheel cylinders setting the ABS light. 9) I think it may be time for me to buy a new AGM 12v battery.

[@Mrelectric423]

Great write up, Thank you!

[@charleshorseman55]

That work for you? New battery?

[@GaryMarkowski]

@@charleshorseman55I think simply replacing the brake fluid worked for me. I replaced the fluid without replacing the 12v battery. However, after replacing the brake fluid, I decided to replace the 12v battery to reduce the number of times I would need to jump start my Prius. Having a good working 12v battery would have made replacing the brake fluid easier, because I could have used the battery power to pump the fluid out. Without a good 12v battery, you can manually suck the brake fluid out with a vacuum pump.

[@mikes7574]

@@GaryMarkowski can I do rear and front brake bleeding with a vacuum pump while 12v battery is disconneted?

[@jeroscolchado4742]

Thank you for the demonstration, now I know and less nervous about working on my prius now .

[@joepitre81]

Definitely works. I noticed that the pump/accumulator wasn't running the whole time like in the video. Still worked out fine.

[@somefo0]

Thank you. Instead of paying 25-75$ for that brake tool, I used a caulking gun and 18" clamp. You can use a long rod or stick that fits in the gun. Adjust the chair and press the brake.

[@lindseybalser3009]

Awesome. Using this method I was able to rebuild and then bleed a rear caliper that I pulled the piston from after the dust boot came out doing a brake replace. This method was crazy easy and the brakes work perfect. No lights on the dash of my Prius either. 🤘

[@chuckpop]

Went to the conventional method using a scan tool and got the brake pedal back. Everything good now. Thanks

[@Mrelectric423]

Good!

[@taylerellis378]

What scan tool did you use?

[@juliansdiamonds]

This is awesome 👌 !!! I was bleeding the car with the car running, it went nowhere !!! Thank you for this!!!

[@plumkey197]

I finally got the two dreaded codes after months of holding my breath and waiting for the ABS actuator to light up the dash. The pedal doesn't feel any different and the brakes still work well, but it's time to swap it out. I found one out of a 2007 Prius with 136,000 miles from a salvage parts company on EBay. The seller offered a 3 month warranty on the part, while most of the others only warranted the part for 30 days, and some sellers not at all, since it is an electrical part. It was a little under $300 with Fed Ex ground. The three month warranty will allow me to install it and make sure it works. The part is clean and the actual harness was cut, leaving the connector intact. They used plenty of bubble wrap and it arrived intact without visible damage. When I made contact with the owner, the actuator was still in the donor car and was not removed until I had paid. Hopefully the internals will not be able to dry out from exposure to the atmosphere for too long. I will start disassembly this weekend using your other video.

[@Mrelectric423]

Keith Nettles It’s an ordeal but worthwhile. I love gen2 Prius and put some serious work into keeping a few O have owned running.

[@plumkey197]

@@Mrelectric423 It would have been nice to find a used "improved" actuator that had been installed as a replacement, but the only ones that have been available have been the original part number . I just pray that this replacement holds up and doesn't fail for similar reasons for at least a year or two. If a major system like the inverter or transaxle fails, the widespread availability of fairly low-mileage units for a few hundred $$ is now a reality, as more gen 2's are wrecked or retired. The prices of these parts have dropped. This makes swapping them out a doable option in order to extend the life of these cars, since the car is "overbuilt" and the quality of the original parts is extraordinarily high (except for the ABS actuator LOL). I'm retired and like to do mechanical projects, and this gives me something worthwhile to do and is not a waste of time. The car will pay the effort back to you like any Toyota will do. The only other major work I have done is the catalytic converter and still has the original traction battery. The gen 2's are preferred by a growing number of people who have owned newer versions and it has been claimed that the gen 2's are more bulletproof than the newer versions. This information is from the forums online, such as Priuschat. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks once again for posting your Gen 2 repair videos.

[@fr6775]

@@plumkey197 do you remember the codes you got?

[@plumkey197]

@@fr6775 give me a day or so to get that info for you.

[@richcruz936]

You are awesome! Thank you! It worked only for my rear though. For the front, i had to pump the breaks for my lexus CT200H. Not sure if its because there is something else wrong or broken?......because the brake pump turns on every 12 seconds even when im parked.

[@andrewo6625]

great video - I did this today and it worked great on all 4 corners. I was just bleeding my old fluid out, no module issues, etc. I went thru 3 pints of toyota dot3 on my 08 prius, i wanted to make sure all of the old fluid was bled out.....I do not know if it matters or not, but I had the key fob in my pocket but kept the car completely turned off.

[@juanillojimenez7866]

definitivamente funciona al 100% y dice q el secreto es abrir la purga primero y después pisar el pedal del freno lo acabo de hacer y me funciono perfectamente saludos

[@richardking6066]

Brilliant method! If you just need to replace the fluid, I'd guess this is just as good as doing it the 'official' way...

[@ericbrown7011]

Worked perfectly. Just change rear cylinders 2009 gen 2. THANK YOU!

[@rivers8517]

Awesome video! you make it look easy. I like how you prepped everything ready to go ahead of time. 99% of car videos aren't this good. I wish you had some Amazon links to that pedal depressor.

[@vladt6501]

I just used the carpenter's clamp to depress the pedal. The handle on the clamp should be turned around 180 degrees and it works very well.

[@edwardthayer9386]

Just use a breaker bar or long extension for a pedal depressor against the front of the seat.

[@j4ke2fl0w3]

@@vladt6501 thanks for that tip. Very good DIY thinking!

[@XfireKeenmike]

Wow. Thank you so much on this process.

[@madimakes]

Does the pump stop when it’s done? You bled for seconds … how long are we supposed to bleed it? On my rear left the pump never stopped; on my right rear it pumped for all of 5 seconds….

[@Mrelectric423]

The pump keeps going until it has sensed pressure is very high (like bleeder screw closed) The system is trying to ready the car to be started and driven. Any error makes the pump stop. Low fluid in the reservoir is one example.

[@plumkey197]

Thank you for posting this video. It is elegantly simple and easy and I plan on trying this out after we get rid of all these hurricanes. Looking forward to seeing you bleed the ABS actuator, hopefully. I haven't done mine yet but I'm sure my day is coming. I'm just using the Frontier most of the time to delay that day. I've come to the conclusion that it is something rubber that's deteriorated. The extended run time is the only issue and it works great otherwise. It's a shame there aren't any shops that rebuild these actuators that I could send mine to and have them repair and reseal it and return it back to me. Maybe some day....

[@yeslawrence]

I was thinking u could just use this method to bleed the abs actuator as well, no? yeah it would be great if they had a rebuild kit for the actuator!

[@plumkey197]

MamaHuhuDIY judging by the number of wires going to and from the device, it would likely require bench testing equipment likely costing thousands of dollars. The actuator communicates with the speed sensors on each wheel, the brake pedal, the anti-skid module, and possibly others I don’t know about yet. I’m assuming the device is connected to some sort of simulator and filled with brake fluid in order to put it through its paces and make sure the rebuild was successful. Dorman is one company that services these modules, but on rockauto.com, they are always out of stock. The dealership wants around $1175 new, and that’s with a discount of almost $400. The new part and labor is around $3300. I would rather not use a salvage unit because of the likelihood of a failure soon after going thru all that crap installing the used part. I’m seriously thinking about just getting rid of the damn thing and I’ve never talked like this before, but.....

[@plumkey197]

MamaHuhuDIY I seriously doubt that the actuator could be bled like this video when it’s first installed. The individual sections have to be filled with brake fluid using techstream or a good unit like Autel makes with bidirectional capabilities. I’m still waiting for a video to come out that illustrates the procedure. I have a copy of techstream on a toshiba laptop running Windows XP with a mini VCI but would like to watch someone actually do the procedure before I try it. I don’t want to hit a snag and be compelled to have it towed to the dealership because I screwed up the bleed procedure. The closest dealer is about 35 miles from my house.

[@ilickspam]

@@plumkey197 so what did you end up doing? i just changed my abs actuator and i'm curious on what i need to do to get it done correctly.

[@plumkey197]

@@ilickspam I replaced the unit with a salvage unit from a salvage business I’ve used before. Removed the cowl and wipers for better access. Moved inverter to the front without disconnecting the cooling system. After installation, I left the brake line on top of actuator loose and refilled reservoir until that top fitting was free of air bubbles - then tightened. Saw this step on another video. Then put the inverter back and put everything back together. Never could get Techstream to complete bleed procedure, so I used the procedure on this video. That worked well enough to erase the codes and turn off the lights on the dashboard. It used plenty of brake fluid but worked very well. The salvage unit works well and the brakes are absolutely normal. I put new pads on the front prior to bleeding (pads were Akebono ceramic pads from Rockauto.com) and lubed the slide pins and contact points on the calipers. The shoes on the backs were worn maybe 1/3 down so but had a ton of dust, so I cleaned them up and lubed backing plates. Now it’s just a matter of how long this salvage unit will last. It runs a couple seconds at a time every few minutes - a fraction of the time that the old one was running. I never brought it to the dealer for bleeding, since the codes went away on their own and the system works perfect.

[@Piracanto]

This seems unbelievable easy, can't grasp the ScanTool method being any better...

[@miraclesmolley1]

Very true! I think this would be the best method with all 4 wheel bled while the pump is working. I saw the scan tool method with the 2 front wheel bled first using the old conventional method!

[@kiethsorenson]

You should do every car repair video on KZbin!

[@triplem2545]

Great job man! I'm about to buy a prius with a bad abs accumulator for cheap. I think I can fix it after watching your video.

[@Mrelectric423]

Noice! I love cheap broken Prius'

[@r3dhorse]

Pine hollow did a vid on this and putting in a replacement accumulator.

[@lexpox329]

how did your repair go? I have a bad abs. I put in a salvage unit, but still have the same codes...as before. The unit I got I pulled from a wrecked car (same year as mine) that was in much better body condition (minus the wreck) and had a seemly untouched abs (all of the visual damage was on the right frontal side) but alas I have the same code.

[@wompwomp7177]

@@lexpox329 try bleeding the brakes and resetting the code using a scanner or the “paper clip obd trick” what I put in quotes will be what you can search to find it pretty easily if u don’t know what I’m talking about

[@ilickspam]

how did it go with this bleeding method?

[@BigOldCarChannel]

This is absolutely amazing!

[@grubenauer]

Thank you for your video!! I followed your instructions for "Prius Brake Bleed No Scan Tool" on my 2009 Prius after replacing the ABS pump. On the rear wheels it worked as it is shown. On the front the ABS pump does not come on. I do not have any pedal resistance and it goes to the floor. What should I do to get the front to bleed?

[@Mrelectric423]

Try opening and closing the drivers side door to get front to bleed. The abs computer stops trying to prime the system after a few minutes. Also if fluid goes low in the reservoir it stops pumping until you refill and reset codes.

[@ilickspam]

@@Mrelectric423 I guess my question has been answered. thank you, mr. electric!

[@ilickspam]

just wondering. how much brake fluid did you end up going through after replacing the abs pump and through bleeding?

[@hatalarious]

@@Mrelectric423does the front breaks need to be pumped multiple times before opening the bleeder valve? Or just follow what was done for the rear wheels?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@hatalarious no pumping needed. I might make another video showing the process again

[@brianw6645]

Sorry for the silly question, but could I completely flush my entire brake fluid system using this method on a Gen 2 Prius, or is it just for a short bleed? If so, do I just leave the bottle on for a longer period of time and keep the reservoir topped off?

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes just leave the bleeder open , bottle connected for a longer period of time to do a more complete flush. I wait until 1/4 of my bleeder bottle is full until moving to the next wheel for a flush.

[@dylanwang2036]

Does it work on Prius 2008? I tried it on rear wheels which are drum brake. When I opened blead valve and depress brake padle, a little brake fluid came out and no more out, so I closed bleed valve. The result is my rear break lost brake. I have no idea what is wrong with the steps I followed here.

[@insidetheunicorn]

Hi, Same car same year same issue. Can you update on what went wrong and how you fixed it?

[@ustoffice4264]

Thank you !!. I used to bleed brake oil using this method. My car is TOYOTA Corolla AXIO (JDM) 2017

[@Mrelectric423]

Nice!

[@8peterp]

great method but I would still remove the two ABS MR relays to bleed the front ,back is ok with relays on. Techstream bleeding procedure asking for it ,must be a reason.

[@northstar5934]

there's only two relays for back , the two in the front dont have relays

[@stevenull2131]

My ABS pump is not on for 2005 Prius ...there is no activity. Had it replaced at dealership year and a half two years ago. I believe I am disillusioned. Reason I'm watching your video is because the scan tool shipped to me is programed for the wrong region and is being shipped back to seller. Got the Prius securely on 4 jack stands and might have to end up turning everything on to force the motor to run to see if I get any activity back at the drums brakes

[@mrangel6437]

The lights of brake and sound apear, and I don’t know, why I can erase. The rear wheels, can’t bleed. 😢

[@Mrelectric423]

you must clear the codes, it will not bled with codes set.

[@noidoi4593]

I love your watch ''vintage electronic Casio'' from Japan of course as your mostly repaired cars 🤣

[@ilickspam]

I just replaced my prius gen 2's abs. to bleed the abs, you're saying doing this would be enough: with the car off, open the bleeder nut, and then push on the brakes. and open and close the driver door to have the pump running again for the front two wheels to bleed. that's it? this sounds so fast! i'm excited and thank you so much for this information.

[@Mrelectric423]

Is the car drivable now ? How did bleeding go?

[@dziarabb]

Hi. Are you sure that doing in this way the old fluid was bled out from ABS pomp ?? master cylinder, stroke simulator? I have to change the brake fluid in the brake system and I do not want the remains of the old one anywhere? thanks for your Answer

[@Mrelectric423]

Your results may vary, This is just how i do it and it has worked for me. I have also done the. techstream bleeding process.

[@leahg3056]

Is the process for a 3rd generation the same?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@leahg3056 yes

[@VeganAtmosphere]

The secret is to depress the brake pedal an inch or two after you’ve opened the bleeder nut? Or is it to opened the bleeder nut after you’ve depressed the brake pedal?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@VeganAtmosphere depress pedal first then open bleeder nut

[@Yama4Nintendo]

Is the brake depressor tool necessary or can I have someone else press on the brakes?

[@Mrelectric423]

The brake pedal has to be pushed down 1 to 2 inches. You could use a stick against the seat or have a person hold the pedal down. In my experience the pedal was held down the same amount consistently. I do not know what would happen if the pedal was not held consistently and moved up and down a bit. Try the second person holding the pedal idea and let us know if it works.

[@friedpickles342]

Is this what you do after you swap out the brake pump thing?

[@stevenbarry9983]

You didn’t say whether or not the car was on electrically or not. So I assume that you pressed the starter button twice without your foot on the break so that it wouldn’t turn the engine on. Am I correct?

[@Mrelectric423]

no, car should be off meaning key off engine off, all screens should be off just note that 12v must be connected despite car being off. You may need to open drivers door if car is off so long it goes to into a mode where abs is not staying pressurized. My advice is to turn the car off right before bleeding.

[@stevenbarry9983]

@@Mrelectric423 copy thanks

[@IlyaBourim]

Thank you for sharing. Could you please let us know the wheel sequence for bleeding the breaks? Start on the rear passenger? Thanks in advance.

[@Mrelectric423]

It depends if you need to bleed all 4. If you only replaced parts on one corner just bleed that one area.

[@skorpyo331]

Brake flush? Start w rear passenger side?

[@mannyclemente7159]

If you replace the abs module pump, do you do the same procedure?

[@Mrelectric423]

The last actuator pump I replaced I did not bleed the brakes and it worked fine. A viewer reported the same in comments. Proceed at your own risk!

[@zorro324]

@@Mrelectric423 wouldn't there be air in the system if the pump was replaced?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@zorro324 I dont know how but it has worked for me. I would think air would be trapped yet it seems to work based on experience. I recommend trying t this way while being prepared to do scanner assisted bleed procedure if needed.

[@shaqs938]

Hello. Would this same procedure work on a 2006 Lexus rx400h. Great video. Thanks😊

[@Mrelectric423]

yes this will work on all toyota /lexus hybrids

[@Mrelectric423]

@@MrTvsh2 No I am going off what other techs have told me

[@MountainSpringsAdventures]

Why is no fluid going in the bottle? I followed the instructions exactly and the bottle is completely empty

[@Mrelectric423]

not sure

[@tylertran93nsx]

Can one do that after replacing ABS module and brake booster?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@tylertran93nsx yes

[@tylertran93nsx]

@@Mrelectric423 I have a 2012 Prius and your way will work? I would hate to buy scanner or tow it to a shop to have it done.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@tylertran93nsxit is a difficult job.

[@douglarson2614]

Do you need to have the cap to the brake reservoir off when doing this? seems that would allow air to get in the system

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes cap off is better to view fluid level and add fluid as needed. The risk of getting air in the system is from failing to refill the reservoir before it gets empty.

[@rabihhajar8711]

I just loved it.. Thank you tech nice

[@aaronMostlySunny]

Hey, why depress the pedal while the bleeder nut is open? Wouldnt that suck air in from the brake line?

[@Mrelectric423]

In a normal brake hydraulic system you would be correct. With the blended brake system in this video the abs actuator pumps fluid out continuously.

[@deficator750]

do u need to close the bleed valve before the pump stops or can u just close when the fluid is clear no bubbles?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@deficator750 you can close the bleeder with the pump going

[@deficator750]

@@Mrelectric423 thanks. i have a prius C. i have the key out so car is off but when i clamped the brake down nothing happened no pump started. i opened and closed drivers door still nothing. So i just pumped the pedal and noticed the fouid started bleeding. i turned car on and now i have ABS and Brake lights on... theres also another warning light on like both brake and gas pedals re pushed.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@deficator750 you need a scan tool to clear the codes

[@DeeBeesvideochannel]

My ODB unit is cheap and doesn't have the ABS pump activation. I have an air compressor type brake bleeder for doing frequent fluid changes with race fluid on my race car where the ABS module small stored quantity would not affect the boil point. Here in my 2016 Prius (don't laugh. It's a great street car.) which has quite aged fluid in the reservoir I was thinking of doing your method of ABS purge (except use my wife on the brake pedal) but start at the LF wheel being closest to the reservoir and the ABS to get the ABS fluid changed out first. Then switch out to my regular bleeder to now-known clean fresh fluid to the other three wheels in regular wheel order to speed up the process. Any flaws in logic? Can that miss even a small amount of old fluid somewhere? I'm wondering... 1. Unrelated: Will the ABS pump even run long enough without timing-out before clean fluid starts coming out on the long runs (RR & LR)? and, 2. I don't know if in regular driving (using non-ABS braking almost always) does the fluid to all 4 wheels still go through the ABS module and flow right through the pump even though off, or take a bypass route around the actual pump part (containing an unknown but small amount of fluid), and thus be the reason for activating it to purge the old fluid out through the ABS pump action in the first place. So, IF it takes a bypass route (containing (X) amount of fluid) rather than flowing through the pump itself I'm sort-of worried that without activating the ABS to purge the other 3 wheels to clean fluid I still might, with the above method) be reintroducing old dirty fluid back into the system - albeit a smaller amount. Thanks for a great video. What's you feeling about this?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@DeeBeesvideochannel seems like a good plan. Keep in mind that it is easy to set an abs code and it cannot be cleared without an appropriate scanner. Once codes are set the whole system refuses to do anything. Interested to hear how it goes. Also the pedal is meant to be held not pumped.

[@DeeBeesvideochannel]

@@Mrelectric423 Using your directions except for my wife being the brake pedal depressor (not pumped) my 2016 Prius's ABS refused to activate for more than one second at a time when the bleed zerk was loosened. No continuous flow like on your Prius did in your video. What year was your Prius? Mine would not cycle again without closing the bleed zerk, then brake pedal release (to draw in more fluid I assume), then zerk close, then pedal depressed, then opened again>ABS activated again for one second and fluid flows during that second. Pretty much like old fashioned brake bleeding but with MANY more cycle. But at least the ABS module got purged. No codes. One more thing: my [big] air compressor driven fluid extractor at 100psi could draw hardly any fluid. It would not draw fluid around or through the ABS module except for one second intervals the ABS was activated using the aforementioned method. So, useless. I seemed to have no choice without an ABS bleed capable program in an ODB unit with my particular model year to do this efficiently in this 2016 Prius. I hope my 4th gen Prius is the only one with this problem design. BTW: with 100k miles the fluid looked surprisingly good-- only slightly yellow. I may not have needed to do it at all. Nonetheless, thanks for your efforts. I'm sure other model generation Prius owners got a lot of use out of it. Thanks for your reply.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@DeeBeesvideochannel was the car off when you performed the bleeding?

[@DeeBeesvideochannel]

@@Mrelectric423 Yes

[@Mrelectric423]

@@DeeBeesvideochannel I wish I could try this method on a gen4 Prius (2016-2022) hopefully you find something workable!

[@madhatter7862]

So if I replaced calipers over a year ago and had lights on my actuator is probably already bad

[@Mrelectric423]

I doubt that killed it. I think the actuator stops trying to build pressure once a code is set. My guess is that clearing codes with an expensive scanner then bleeding would be all it takes

[@madhatter7862]

@@Mrelectric423 thank you! so do you think one of those foxwell scanners would work from Amazon? Or do I need the TechStream? It’s $1600 😢

[@Mrelectric423]

@@madhatter7862 I haven’t heard of the foxwell. Techstream will definitely work. I’m not sure what other scanner a qualify for the job. I’ve heard mixed reviews of the “mini vci” on Amazon. It’s definitely affordable at $40 plus a laptop but some people can’t get it loaded and working.

[@madhatter7862]

@@Mrelectric423 So the CarCareNut recommends the Xtool D7. I don’t have a BD scanner, so got the brake depressor and ran a bit of fluid of of my rears, but then they went dry on me. I had door closed and unhooked negative terminal.

[@MrOscar5690]

Did this. Lights are on, there’s a loud constant beeping and car won’t stop on queue. What to do?

[@MrOscar5690]

My car is also Second generation Prius 05

[@Mrelectric423]

Clear the codes with a scan tool

[@MrOscar5690]

@@Mrelectric423 Took it to a shop. I needed scan tool to bleed brakes. And no codes came up on my BlueDriver

[@MountainSpringsAdventures]

How long do you let the pump run for? Like, how long does it take for it to bleed completely?

[@Mrelectric423]

Maybe 30 seconds or so.

[@madimakes]

I’m sitting here bleeding for 10 minutes each oof 😂

[@VxASHExV]

Amazing! Strait to the point!

[@HP-ez2xx]

does the bleeding bottle need to be airtight?

[@Mrelectric423]

No it does not

[@daijoubu4529]

Does this only work with the Toyota hybrids? Why does it work tho, how come the ABS pump kicks in when the car is off?

[@Mrelectric423]

The Abs pump is trying to maintain pressure in the system. It starts pumping when bleeder is opened and pressure drops. If the car is on it sets a code and stops pumping immediately.

[@daijoubu4529]

Is that only on the hybrids? I vacuum bleed my older 2013 Venza with key on but engine off and didn't hear the ABS pump kick in.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@daijoubu4529 Yes only hybrids (I think)

[@lyle3726]

Do I have to do on other side too or just driver side only. Thanks

[@Mrelectric423]

Bleed all 4 wheels if that is your question.

[@lyle3726]

Yes. Thank you

[@michaelchu802]

Did you have to leave ignition on thru the process ?

[@Mrelectric423]

No ignition off.

[@ericastanton2010]

would do you mean by codes. there are no codes on dash board right now. do not want any codes to pop up after bleeding because i would not know what to do to clear it.

[@Mrelectric423]

If the brake fluid on reservoir goes beyond the low mark it sets a code

[@termainedavis4425]

How is the abs pump going with the care off?

[@Mrelectric423]

It has to keep pressure up to be ready for vehicle start and drive. If the car waited for you to start you would not have power breaks while you start the engine and drive away. It tries to maintain pressure while the car is off too. It double checks and adds pressure if needed when you open the door.

[@soolly357]

Did you teach auto shop at CCSF?

[@chuckpop]

just to follow up with my first question, the abs actuator will be replaced

[@keepMrunning]

about after an actuator abs replacement ? do you bleed the same way ?

[@Mrelectric423]

This may sound crazy but I have tried not bleeding after actuator replacement and everything works fine. I dont understand how or why.

[@plank5370]

​@Mrelectric423 thats so weird because when i changed my acutrator my pedal is super loose and the lights are still there for the abs c1256 and c1252 so hopefully by bleeding the brakes it gets fixed cause i haven't bleed brakes after abs replacement

[@felakutifela4466]

Hey sir, Can you plead the brakes without removing the tires or jacking up the car

[@michaelstogsdill8744]

Yes just turn driver wheel out.

[@felakutifela4466]

@@michaelstogsdill8744 thank you, is it necessary to bleed the brakes in all of the four tyres ?

[@michaelstogsdill8744]

@@felakutifela4466 the best way to do it is to go to the passenger rear. Or passenger front because it is furthest away from the accumulator pump.

[@felakutifela4466]

@@michaelstogsdill8744 also does the 12v and hybrid battery have to be disconnected before bleeding the battery

[@robertmencl9169]

@@felakutifela4466 if you have brake fluid in your tires, you have a serious problem.

[@MountainSpringsAdventures]

Can I bleed the brakes with the prius in ready mode? Like, can i press the brake and it pumps the fluid with it turned on in ready mode? My 12v battery is going bad and I cant press the brakes many times with the car off or it will quickly drain the 12v battery

[@Mrelectric423]

No unfortunately that does not work. You could connect a 12v charger to make it work with a weak 12v batt.

[@Sunnysky321]

Great video. Does this work on Gen 3 (2010 - 2015) Prius, and Prius C?

[@cynthiart]

Yes, I want to know if it works on a prius 3 (2013)

[@Mikheno]

Does this work on a 2013 Prius?

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes

[@christopher6161]

i do not get any pressure to back wheel cylinder brake line, what am i doing wrong ?!!?

[@Mrelectric423]

If you have codes it will not bleed. You may need a fancy scantool to clear the codes.

[@christopher6161]

@@Mrelectric423 will this work on 3rd/4rd gen ? also, doing this on my 2nd gen the proper way with the scantool seems to crash on Techstream every time. thank you

[@Mrelectric423]

@@christopher6161 as far as I know this method works on all toyota lexus hybrids

[@maloosecat123]

So just to make sure...when bleeding the Prius using this method the car is completely off and not in any mode? thanks for the great video

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes the car is off. The car tries to have the abs system pressurized at all times. It won't work with brake codes set or 12v batt disconnected.

[@volpage77]

Can you bleed this way after replacing ABS actuator ? Just watched your other video . Great job going to replace ABs actuator soon after watching your video

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes you can

[@friedpickles342]

Do you have to bleed all wheels after replacing the actuator?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@friedpickles342 I have tried no bleeding after actuator replacement too. Somehow it works. I have no explanation for how or why.

[@friedpickles342]

@@Mrelectric423 the official "bleeding" proceedure is probably just so the dealer can milk more labor from the customer.

[@ilickspam]

@@Mrelectric423 is that not dangerous?

[@ahdziz666]

Ive got a dumb "linear solenoid valve offset unlearned" code in my abs system. The car won't make it through calibration and jumps out in under a minute. Would flushing the brake system possibly help?

[@Mrelectric423]

Im not sure. Worth a try. It probably needs a new abs unit.

[@taylorv817]

Does the prius has to be on? That wasnt mention in the video

[@ericastanton2010]

he said car off at 1:02

[@christianr6369]

Do you have to remove the relays? I bled them without removing any relays and now the check hybrid system message came up

[@Mrelectric423]

That can happen if the fluid in reservoir goes low or if the car is on.

[@huey4203]

I know this is a old video but will this work for a 2006 Toyota prius im old school and hate tech, i do have a scan tool and does do abs but it scares me so if this works would rather do that we dont have the cash to take it in

[@Mrelectric423]

The bleed method shown would work but if any mistake is made it would throw an abs and hybrid system code. For example if the fluid in the reservoir went low while bleeding it would throw a few codes. You would essentially be locked out until the codes get cleared.

[@huey4203]

@Mrelectric423 ok thank you like i said im old school so this new school electronics scare me 😆 i have a scanner that can clear codes just dont want to mess the brakes up thanks for the reply have a great day

[@Mrelectric423]

@@huey4203 If your scanner can read and clear hybrid system codes is the question. Since the car uses regen brakes, a regular brake issue throws a regen brakes code in the hybrid computer.

[@huey4203]

@Mrelectric423 idk its the innova 5160r/s i know its limited for what breaks it will bleed do you think it would clear the codes thanks again for the help

[@Mrelectric423]

@@huey4203 You could connect it and see if it can read anything that seems hybrid system related like high voltage battery voltage or motor current. If it can read from that computer it can probably clear codes.

[@desipranksterz7909]

I tried bleeding the rear caliper on a 2008 toyota camry hybrid i did a similar method where i had someone press the brake pedal down while i opened the bleeder valve although i did this multiple times and after a few times no more fluid was coming out of the bleeder and abs lights are on, any suggestions on how to remove the abs lights now?

[@Mrelectric423]

The pedal should be held not pressed or moved. Use a scantool to clear codes. Running low on brake fluid will make the abs error light come on.

[@desipranksterz7909]

@@Mrelectric423 thanks for the reply g I cleared the codes this morning and it was straight

[@victorortega6856]

Hey @Mr.Electric , I did the abs module/pump following your other video but my codes still on dashboard you think abs module I bought was bad also? And when bleeding breaks do you press pedal all the way down?

[@Mrelectric423]

It will not let you bleed with codes. Have you checked and cleared codes?

[@victorortega6856]

@@Mrelectric423 so update , I went ahead and changed the abs module once again, thinking it was abs issue, but codes didn’t clear . So I went ahead and bled the brakes manually, the first time with first part the break pedal would go a little too low and can feel car wasn’t breaking until pedal was deep. today I switched to another abs module and still same codes and I bled brakes and the brake pedal is now little hard but it lags to break and when it breaks it only does it with left caliper, makes tire slide and the right side keeps spinning while pedal is being pressed completely.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@victorortega6856 Are you able to clear codes and check codes. It is impossible to bleed with certain codes. For example it will shut off fluid flow to a line that was reading 0 pressure. Clearing codes allows you to bleed it (at least in my experience)

[@victorortega6856]

@@Mrelectric423 haven’t tried clearing codes . Let me try doing that, so after clearing codes I should be able to bleed it ?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@victorortega6856 yes

[@jdmfans6078]

my brake pedal 2010 prius feels softer that normal. should i bleed it 🤔

[@Mrelectric423]

Yeah no reason not to. I always feel mush better pedal after brake fluid flush.

[@mr.hundreddollarbill9333]

I have a precollsion code sayinv abs is failuy and asking to do a linears solenoid learn is bot working because of the pcs code. Any suppestion?

[@Mrelectric423]

What codes do you have

[@mr.hundreddollarbill9333]

@@Mrelectric423 c1345 and b2060 seems like b2060 is keeping the linear learning from completing. And b2060 wont go away becaise of abs error. Did everything i can brake bleed,zero dow, jump ports, tap ports 4 time in 8 sec,test mode signald check etc

[@Mrelectric423]

@@mr.hundreddollarbill9333 The b2060 is an unusual code, I do not see other people reporting that code. Failure to relearn linear actuator after multiple attempts is usually a bad actuator. With the very odd b2060 it is possible you have a wiring issue not bad actuator. Do you think wires could have been damaged? Otherwise I would consider replacing the actuator.

[@VinayakGovande]

Does this method work for Prius gen 4; 2018 model? Thank ou.

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes!

[@hedgehogthesonic3181]

Can this be done with the vehicle with key in the ''on'' position?

[@Mrelectric423]

It will throw codes and stop pumping in the on position.

[@ghills6845]

Great video, thanks for posting! But I have a specific question...I need to put a new front caliper on my Gen 2 2007 Prius. So of course the caliper will be completely empty of fluid when I go to bleed it. Will the method you show in this video still work if the caliper is completely empty? Or will it produce the ABS/VSC lights and codes? Thank you.

[@Mrelectric423]

In my experience this method will work, no codes thrown. Note: if the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir drops below the low level sensor it will stop pumping and throw an error code.

[@mattbrooks9928]

Will this work after changing master cylinder on 2010 Prius?

[@Mrelectric423]

yes I believe so

[@abdelkrimnadar2493]

I tried your technique on my 2010 Toyota Prius hybrid, it worked on rear wheels but nothing on the front wheels. Do you know what the front wheels didn’t bleed ?

[@Mrelectric423]

If an error code registers it will stop pumping.

[@abdelkrimnadar2493]

No code but I couldn’t bleed the front caliper with pedal depressor.but the rear was bled perfectly. What could be the problem.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@abdelkrimnadar2493 If the error light comes on it will stop pumping. You would then clear codes and start again trying to bleed front.

[@ChronicDreamer1st]

Tried this and it didn’t work. It bled some initial air out, however after a tour around the block more air built up. Bled that out and the brakes still have air. I’m going to have to use the scan tool.

[@Mrelectric423]

Using the scan tool is better and more time consuming(as the better way tends to be). This technique is a short cut nothing more. Interested to hear if the scan tool bleed fixes the issue

[@ChronicDreamer1st]

I followed your other video on replacing the ABS unit. It was a major pain to get it out but your video was an excellent guide. Now that it’s replaced I bought an OBD2 cable and I’m installing the software onto my laptop to try bleeding the brakes that way. I’ll let you know how it goes !

[@cameronclarke9143]

Any luck? Im in this process as we speak w similar symptoms

[@Rude.Rayne_VA]

Any luck?

[@julioguerra5500]

Great video . I have a question I took car to the shop they installed my abs pump and it fail I bought it used only it was tested before it was sold to me how do you know if it was not installed right please leave me a message any one thank you

[@Mrelectric423]

hard to know if it was installed wrong or already failed. hmm let me think about that. Did the shop give you the removed original part back?

[@julioguerra5500]

@@Mrelectric423 yes they did the part that I bought is in the car it smells really bad brake fluid it didn't before with the original part

[@julioguerra5500]

Thank you so much for responding

[@Mrelectric423]

@@julioguerra5500 I guess the junkyard part failed or was already failed when shipped. Thats too bad.

[@mikeb19672001]

Thanks.. wow. What great information.

[@ilyaspatel5528]

Hi i have a question i seen ur video good but u not told abt the ignition on car off or without ignition on this method?

[@Mrelectric423]

Ignition off.

[@johnzablan1086]

Aloha Mr. Electric! I have a 2019 Camry LE Hybrid. Do you know if this same method will work on my car?

[@laud5929]

Hi there. Thanks for all your videos. I watched your other video "Prius ABS actuor replacement". So I was wondering if you can use this brake bleed method after your change your ABS actuor or you need a computer to bleed them? Sorry for my english. Thanks a lot

[@Mrelectric423]

This method works

[@nelsonavendanocallenova9572]

Hey @laud5929 did you bleed your brakes with this method after your abs actuator replacement? Did it work.

[@chuckpop]

After getting the codes and warning lights for abs failure, I replaced the entire abs actuator and pump assembly. no more lights on dash and checked with a scanner, no codes. I followed the procedure you outlined in the video and bled all four brakes. However, I still do not have a brake pedal, goes to the floor. Can you advise please? I have a 2008 Toyota highlander hybrid.

[@Mrelectric423]

Did you bleed the brakes?

[@chuckpop]

Yes, started at the back right moved to bl, then fr then fl. Pedal went to the floor before bleeding and after bleeding. Fluid came out quickly with the pump on. Used procedure you outlined in the video

[@chuckpop]

Do I need to bleed again?

[@Mrelectric423]

@@chuckpop that is my guess

[@connelly6375]

How do you when when it is done bleeding?

[@Mrelectric423]

That’s the end of the job , get lunch and send the car home

[@chriszbodula1894]

Does this work after replacing the brake actuator?

[@Mrelectric423]

Yes , I think so

[@NigelTheWhiteChicken]

Mr. Electric mine I forgot to bleed and it throws code abs vcs error. Can this bleeding process remove the error on dashboard? Please help

[@Mrelectric423]

Have you bled it since? Whats it doing now a few days after your comment?

[@user-ff5zf7gi6y]

I got air in my brake system trying to bleed/flush my brakes after changing out a rear caliper. The brakes are now soft and I have four lights displayed on my dash - Brake light, ABS, traction control light and an exclamation point. Do you think this method will work to purge the air from my brake system?

[@user-ff5zf7gi6y]

Just some further info regarding my "air in the brakes" issue. It is a 2011 Camry hybrid. After changing out a rear caliper, I had a helper sit in the car and depress the brake pedal. Nothing came out at first when I opened the bleeder screw, but then a pump kicked on and sent several spurts of fluid into my jar - my helper said the pedal never went down even though he was pressing on it the whole time. It stayed in the same position. I'm afraid there is air in the ABS unit. Not sure though.

[@Mrelectric423]

This definitely sounds like a candidate for the bleeding procedure shown in the video. You would need to clear codes before it will let you bleed the brakes.

[@scooter12e]

@@Mrelectric423 what exactly do you mean by clear the codes? I've got no rear brakes on my Prius after attempting to redo the brake drum assembly and putting on a new wheel cylinder. Try as I may, no brake fluid will come out of the brake line. Got the same thing as this guy, ABS, VSC, exclamation point light, and parking brake lights all on.

[@Mrelectric423]

@@scooter12e I mean use an advanced scantool to clear the abs code, the vsc code and any other codes. The car will refuse to pump brake fluid if codes are set but will pump fluid if they are cleared using a scantool (at least in my experience)

[@wildimpo]

Nice, so I replaced the actuator pump this works the same to bleed the brakes

[@Mrelectric423]

I dont know if this will work for actuator.

[@wildimpo]

@@Mrelectric423 ok thanks probably best to head to the dealership

[@Mrelectric423]

@@wildimpo are dash error lights still on after actuator replacement?

[@wildimpo]

@@Mrelectric423 no lights

[@Mrelectric423]

@@wildimpo If tge brake pedal feels normal and no error lights are illuminated I would leave well enough alone. I mean if it drives and stops bleeding probably not needed.

[@chuckpop]

Quick question on the rear brakes, once you have one side done on the rear do you remove the depressor and complete the other rear side in the same manner? opening the value and then applying the depressor? and then move to the front brakes?

[@Mrelectric423]

I keep the depressor in place while bleeding all 4 brakes.