Project F100 Rust Repair - Part 10

The cab of the 1966 F100 was trash. If I am being honest it may not have been worth saving. But I may be doing some modifications to the truck later down the road that will decrease the trucks value so I wanted to start with a rough truck. No since messing up a clean truck just for fun!
The worst of the rust is the drip rail on the cab. So in this episode I dive into the rust and fix some spotty repairs that the truck received somewhere during its life!
Follow along with the F100 build on my Instagram page ‪@Petrol360‬
Also check out the new website for more details on the truck as well as other projects! petrol360.co/
Amazon Links-
Eastwood 180 Amp MIG Welder
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Ingersoll Rand 429 Heavy Duty Air Reciprocating Saw
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Ingersoll Rand 3101G Air Die Grinder Edge Series - 1/4", Heavy Duty, Right Angle
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60 Pcs Sanding Discs Set
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[@broke_dongle]

I' ve looked at mine for 25 years but just shrugged. Subbed.

[@barnycanuck6234]

Thanks for posting. I got exactly same issue and there aren't many videos of folks tackling drip rail area repair.

[@waylonnewton4431]

I think our f100s went to the same body shop originally 😂😂😂

[@buttonysquare8501]

The factory sealer on these trucks is terrible and cracks over time. The roof seam will let in water behind the drip rail. The low spot welds where the roof goes over the drip rail will hold water and the rust starts from there. If anyone is restoring one of these I recommend putting body filler in the lows and maybe slope it from the center. One tip is never grind down your welds completely, you can make the flat metal on the sides of your weld too thin. Just grind it halfway and beat it in slightly and bondo over it. You can also lap weld the new sheet metal over the old as long as it’s where the water runs down over the lap and you cut the old rust out.

[@user-hs8qj2fi9y]

Should of tried lead solder for gutter.

[@fomoco173]

Nicely done! I have a 74 F100 that has a couple holes above the A pillars I'll be doing soon with my Eastwood 135.

[@rustbucket1114]

Ahhh…. I’m not the only one rumbling in our neighborhood. Good job

[@Popsplace42]

Ideally, the patch piece needs to bend 90* at the bottom so it sits flat in the bottom of drip rail, and spot weld it in.

[@humberto2722]

Good job my brother 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

[@Scrapy-ih7ob]

That is some nice-looking repair work. Same issue on my 79 bronco. and I used factory metal cut off good roof for the same area to replace it isn't easy.. nice work. Stil have to do the front edge above the windshield.

[@Petrol360]

Thanks! I am by no means a sheet metal guy but its a relief to have the rust replaced. Fingers crossed the repair last a long time!

[@autojumbleusa]

☆Good job!☆

[@drdjh2003]

I need to do this with a 55’ on the drip rail. Fortunately I have a parts car to cut it from. Many Tri 5’s become rusty because rodents run along the edges of the finside roof rails and urinate.

[@VwRosstorations]

Along for the ride...👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@brikoplanet]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@andreasproesser3267]

what did you sand it down with ?

[@Cindy11389]

I would have cut the outer roof skin off there's a lot going on in that inner

[@chriskappes9170]

I am actually doing that same reapair was going to put new roof on but are to be found where i am so repair it is

[@Petrol360]

Yep its not a fun job, but it feels good to have it finished !

[@cruza1289]

Can someone tell me why does it have to be completely welded in ? Why can’t you just spot weld most of it and then grind back make it flush and then put bondo over it?

[@Petrol360]

If you want it to look nice like it was original you need to but weld the whole seam. If this was under the truck I might overlap the panels. I will still fully weld them out rather then spot weld for strength. Then seam seal to keep moisture out of your repair.

[@elijahkyriacou9524]

What’s the metal thickness you used for the repairs?

[@Petrol360]

Im not sure on the thickness. I just matched up some scrap steel to the factory steel. I would be lying if I made a guess!

[@aidenog7380]

18gauge I’m pretty sure

[@henrygibson1530]

I've got the same issue on my 66 F100 .

[@Petrol360]

Its been a bit of a pain to replace the metal but not the end of the world. I just finished the drivers side and im working the area with body filler now. It is actually coming out pretty well.

[@henrygibson1530]

@@Petrol360 yes it's looking good .

[@garyjohnson801]

That's a hack job I would be pissed to buy something like that because no of the rust was fixed under that repair so it's just going to rust back and all you do is sale some a headache down the road. And I know that because I've been doing body work professionally for over 30 years

[@Petrol360]

I have been doing body repair for not 30 years. But I will say its better then the fiberglass the guy before me used. The plan for this truck has never been to make it perfect. Fix what needs to be fixed and keep the patina look.

[@procharged6854]

Regardless what the work done now is like doesnt matter. The next buyer in line has the due diligence to see what work was done right or not and ultimately by the truck or not, in AS IS condition. That means you except all the work good/bad, right/wrong. Ive fixed numerous hack jobs on cars and trucks Ive bought, its a part of buying these classics and knowing at some point a shade tree mechanic probably rigged stuff up. The real fact is, he is making this truck better and repairing it the way he sees necessary. If you disagree Im sure he would be happy to use your 30 years experience if you wanted to just go over and do it for him at no cost. Otherwise, why comment? Not everyone has the same skillset. When I built my 68 and started tearing it apart, I kept finding more and more, so I eventually just took it down to a shell and started over. Its all part of the game.

[@Buttermilkjug]

@garyjohnson801 I wanted to see what a real pro can do, so I visited your channel.. and unfortunately for me, you have exactly zero videos, of any kind. #ArmchairGary