Project TaoTao : 50cc Scooter Ignition Mods : Racing CDIs, Red Hot Coil, & A Free Mod

[@clintdonovan6257]

Ive never seen this much attention to detail on a moped you got a sick ride

[@obfuscated3090]

Well done and your exposure if the aftermarket CDI units as basically "dumb switches" will save others money. Also your method of slotting the pickup is the only way to get adjustable ignition timing with any of the systems. Your narration is excellent (music in a tech video is as stupid as the children who want it). Nice work all around.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks!

[@ethanabramovitz4351]

Yea china junk. They are liars. Same people who purposely sold Americans fake rice made of plastic. And purposely manufactures and sells products to last just long enough where consumers cannot return.

[@Thomsonicus]

Even though this is quite an old video, I've found it to be one of the most informative videos out on the Internet. Pretty much nobody bothered to do any decent measurements in timing advancements and so on. Thank you and cheers from Poland!

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. The age doesn't matter. These Chinese scooters and the aftermarket CDIs are still being made the same way.

[@ronzogo]

Wasn't even worth my time watching, just raise the slide needle for the carb,,, presto more power.

[@fabian2450]

@@ronzogo no that is called tuning your carb you are just giving it more fuel between 25% and 75% throttle i believe but changing the timing of your ignition is just different and if you first time your ignition as best as possible and then tune ur carb you will get the best results

[@charlesstrand7683]

​@@49ccscoot

[@crpth1]

@@ronzogo- Clueless! LOL 😂 😂

[@matari7183]

Great job man. Thanks for taking the time and doing all this work and experiments and post them for everyone to see. Thank you

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. Glad to put info like this out there so maybe some will think twice when they hear claims like 10MPH gains from CDI sellers.

[@bumblebob5979]

@@49ccscoot Hi Scoot! Have you tested any aftermarket exhaust systems to this taotao? I cannot find anywhere to look who is trying to rippmeoff or sell me what they claim. Best Regards!

[@49ccscoot]

@@bumblebob5979 Not yet. They aren't going to do much on a 49cc unless the current pipe is restricted. May start to be beneficial with larger displacement and better heads and such.

[@bumblebob5979]

@@49ccscoot Okey, then im gonna take it a little chill on the exhaust spendings. Prob just gonna make a nice tailpipe mod on my current OEM system and watch it go :) Have a nice day! :D

[@OverlandOne]

Brent: I just watched this again after posting a link over at your Forum for a member and wow, what a ton of work you did just to make this one video! I could have easily made like 5 videos out of this one and had them be informative but you crammed all of this info into a single video...just fantastic Sir. Bill

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks Bill.

[@Gosenism]

Very objective, no conjecture, all pro. Many thanks for the graphical illustrations and thorough explanations! Thumbs up all the way.

[@michaeldodd9405]

Excellent report. The comment about the alternative CDI causing problems during cold starts happened to be very helpful. I had assumed that one CDI was much the same as any other in this respect.

[@danasourus1]

pure gold. this video is on point well put together, extremely helpful, and informative

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks!

[@stickshiftmartin]

Great Video. Best Information Available. Your attention to details and your scientific approach in testing for the most Accurate information possible was most impressive. Your detailed analysis of all the data from testing, placed in easy to understand grafts with a descriptive commentary, and explaining in detail, your findings with your own thoughts about test results included in this video. You supplied accurate information making it easy for fellow scooter owners to make decisions on upgrades and save money. Thanks Again..... Stickshift Martin

[@benzinz_4821]

What i learned from this is screw aftermarket cdi's il just advance the timing with the pick up coil :)

[@WinstonFiore]

I'd like to second what everyone else here is commenting: your videos freakin' rock! I just bought this very scooter, along with a corresponding 100cc Big Bore kit, with which was included the racing CDI and ignition coil featured in this video. I changed both out last night, but after seeing this vid, I'm thinking I should at least change the coil back to stock. This may be for the best, as it will allow me to use the NGK spark plug boot you recommended in your assembly vid.

[@rabbit8601]

I do this to my yamaha aerox ! And i relly feel the diference ! This guy is a genius !

[@rdizzo1313]

They need to drop 50cc laws and have the minimum 100cc. As a standard.

[@Unknown-hl7sb]

rdizzo1313 pst little secret... Well not so secret but mmm anyway. Put a big bore kit on it :) not too hard just have to make sure your at top dead center with your piston when you take apart your motor to put the new pieces on. You can do that by making sure the large hole on your chain gear is pointing forward towards your front wheel and the two little are at the top and bottom. It gives you more power. Not sure how much more because I don't have all the tools this guy does but I know you'll do 45 50 easy and keep up with traffic. I have this same moped Taotao atm50-a1 mines a 2012 this guy's might be a 2013 since that's the year he made the video. But I keep up with traffic just fine :) good luck

[@shaunobrien8459]

They did this in Michigan as of 23 May 2018

[@benjaminfranklyn604]

cops dont care ,aslong you dont go on a highway or be speeding like a maniac on a school zone or 20mph zone. i had a 80cc bore kit and a straight exhaust,never got pull over and it was loud. this year planning going 100cc bbk or maybe 105-110cc and 1500 rpm springs since i live on a hills.the clutch spring should help going up faster. plus cops know that a 2 stroke is faster than a 4 stroke and that actual 4stroke cc is smaller than a 2 stroke even if it is a 100cc for a 4t it still equal to a 2t 50cc. in atv race 4stroke have higher cc compare to 2 stroke in the same class . 2 stroke are quicker on acceleration and takes skillful person to pedal around corners in a 2 stroke

[@beardsbucks2365]

Agree think it should be 125cc

[@Astriddd333]

rdizzo1313 agreed. Tired of going 45 and my belt breaking all the goddamn time. Atleast let me go 60 and deck my shit out until I can get my license. I'm 17 and can't get my license til I'm 18 so I'm stuck with a moped :/

[@crazyDIYguy]

I run big bikes, an R6 and a Harley 1200, CBR, etc. That being said these scooters are cool and the general information I obtain is awesome when it comes to performance because everyone is modding them, now I want one.👌💯

[@49ccscoot]

I sold my turbo Mustang because I was having more fun playing with scooters for much less money and I was less afraid to try things due to said monetary differences.

[@Thedeaconoftrade]

I like how thorough you are and with data to back everything up, nice work!

[@erikochoa1063]

Hi, I'm new to scooters. I just bought a 50cc and it already had the blue CDI and the orange coil. Maximum speed is 35 mph, but if I crouch down to avoid the wind, I see 40 mph. Aerodynamics 😂

[@kevinstearns4198]

its all a gimmick. exhaust and big bore kits are the best for mods. awesome job very explicit. ur the best.

[@Slinoab]

Finally someone who knows what he is doing, tests it, proves it, etc. Not just only talking crap. Thumbs up from Germany, mate!

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you!

[@evodingo3375]

idk how I came across your video or why I decided to watch it but I enjoyed it. good video man.

[@49ccscoot]

+Carlos Dingo Thank you!

[@solomoncobb1542]

Thanks for not lying to us to get advertising sponsorship. Your videos are always great man.

[@49ccscoot]

Cruising that fast, you may actually be able to use a mild upgear or maybe a variator swap. I think a variator could give a little boost in speed and it's easier to do than a gear swap. I'm hoping to test out a couple soon, but the weather here isn't cooperating ATM. If your compression will allow it, perhaps the ignition mod in this video would give a little boost. Thanks for watching and reading!

[@kevinmarshall5102]

47-50mm big bore + 4gram rollers+ pod intake filter + blue cdi+ 94 main jet = 50mph on 139qmb

[@ΓιώργοςΜπακόπουλος]

man blue cdi is without rev limiter that's the difference if u buy cilinder and piston 47mm and up...(72cm3-etc)u will see awesome results

[@ΔημήτριοςΧρηστίδης-ι4ρ]

πες τα μαστορα

[@mwilliamshs]

His stock cdi revved past 11,000 rpm That's plenty

[@Tomijus]

This video is one of your most popular videos almost half a million views. Please do more of these series

[@49ccscoot]

I plan to. I got wrapped up in my other projects, but the TaoTao is still here waiting for more testing.

[@ButtMasterOO]

wow... so comprehensive . great info, thanks!

[@crpth1]

Your sweat, our gain... Thank you for the effort, it's much appreciated. This from someone who in fact worked on real world ignition coils production. With this said. I can understand the "geniality" of someone in China. Who decided to add some red or orange pigment to their crappy coils plastic body. And sell them as "hot coils". Genius really... LOL 😂 😂

[@moslimislam5714]

Your dedication made me subscribe

[@49ccscoot]

+Moslim Islam Thank you!

[@randygiedd6385]

I have tried the same process with all the same products. I discovered quickly that changing the initial timing by modifying the pickup screw slots made the blue cdi start the gy6 instantly! The advance curve on the blue cdi works great with the a9 cam big bore and 102 jet im using the 22mm carb.Although i have a bigger carb handy i havent tried that yet. I learned the initial timing change allows the fuel mixture to be correct for starting and believe it has to do with the rate of increased power from the richer cam profile and efficientcy of the racing mods. since the gy6 was originally designed for fuel efficiency.

[@williamhaskellhaskell3162]

The pick up coil slot will only give +/- 2 degrees. The fraud race c.d.I.are static at 25 deg

[@dreissenstock8513]

Imagine doing all this testing just to find out all it did was make your scooter start like shit lol

[@anthonygonsalves4972]

Cus he shuld open the throttle alil n put volcano filter on carb n take off stock air filter box n unscrew acceleration screw by 2 turns

[@Crushhyt]

@@anthonygonsalves4972 nah. When you buy a cdi its because it's cheap so no

[@PeterPiccolo]

hahaha

[@mikeylopez9625]

@@anthonygonsalves4972 bike won't run right without stock air filter. And

[@anthonygonsalves4972]

@@mikeylopez9625 m9ne starts fine wit all my upgrades n idles smooth

[@matthewgilmore5307]

i like how you made timing ajustable, im going to do it !

[@cranemann25]

i loved this video you sr have saved me money

[@ecec5863]

this video the plug racing coil is not good, in order for the racing cdi to work you need good racing plug coil, if not it will not work, these 2 must co-operation, don\t worry about the hard start and tune your cold idle higher, it may get higher when hot, but it will not harm your bike and will even make your pick up faster, however the racing cdi seem not suitable for this bike show in this video, may be it cc is to small, mine is daelim daystar chopper 140cc, it work fine, even how he modify the pick up cannot win me, racing cdi and coil is not enough, you need other modify like using cold air intake with k and n air filter and do the tuning for more fuel, and racing clutch plate, to increase the bike speed is not so easy as shown in this video

[@thomasdsmith7678]

Great series! Very helpful to remind me of all the things I forgot from 40 years in the dealerships (since I retired).

[@DopeeJamm]

What dash/speedo are you using?? Trying to find one for mine as it keeps snapping cables :/

[@49ccscoot]

Dopee Jamm Trail Tech Vapor

[@DopeeJamm]

***** cheers!

[@scataxoriginal8234]

Thank you for sharing a way to not use my ocd attempt to upgrade my scooters just to spend money and time to go the same speed. Leave stock ✅️

[@blackrob3058]

i swear after watching your vids i feel like a pro scooter tech :). Anywho, i just have one question about bbk's. If i got a 80cc bbk, could i still use the stock 50cc carb and exhaust?

[@49ccscoot]

Robert Ward Thank you. Yes, stock carb and exhaust should work. I'd suggest sticking with 72cc (called 80cc by many sellers... 47mm bore). The 50mm+ bore kits put you at increased risk of premature bearing failure.

[@fredrickmiller5165]

Excellent testing. You have nothing to sell and you tested one item a a time. The correct way.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. If you like honest tests and reviews, consider subscribing!

[@A.Hisham86]

I never thought the pick up coil would be that important when he will be modify.. thanks

[@sebastianshowraki8760]

This guy went all out

[@therightreverendrawhide7587]

Hey dude .greetings from Nottingham U.K. ...I have been messin' with c.d.i. s & 2t for many years & have found ALL aftermarket C.d..i.s are pretty much useless without other mods. physical derestrictions , i.e. exhaust mods .carb' mods etc... when possible I purchase a 'variable timing' type unit with easy access to the adjustment screw as you will find you will have to keep your timing as stock as possible for the sake of easy starting .,,Then crank up the 'advance' once warm 'n' running.. Cool that you took the time show this to the masses !! Nice one Dude !!

[@49ccscoot]

Truly adjustable CDIs could offer a great improvement. I bought a cheap one, but it only adjusted where the timing curve started. Good for the starting, but not really an advantage over stock for WOT performance.

[@Paul_VanGo]

I was a bit weary about both the 'tuning' coil and 'tuning' CDI. Definitive test. Thank you.

[@dixieboy5689]

This was well done. Good intel. Take away : Stay stock. Use parts money for beer !!!

[@travisdonotsuscribegototjs9323]

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO REALLY HELPS with many questions I had, im gonna try this on a 250cc automatic motorcycle for the fly wheel part

[@brannenthompson9662]

Thanks for this video as I changed out my CDI and Coil and you've saved me scratching my head not realising the advance has affected my starting silly I know but your brilliant tip on elongating the pickup holes was great realy worked and with a high power 2 stroke the difference is even better felt and as I cant afford to use a rolling road I did the same tests THANKS simple cheap and really worked.

[@joeculver43]

Great advice never seen anyone say anything about elongating the pick up mounting holes I’ll be trying this on my sons Tao Toa Racer

[@crapistheshit3840]

Great video! you cleared up the black box CDI mysterie for me! Happy scooting !

[@neil_st6073]

One of the most informative scooter videos i've seen in a long time. I was looking at purchasing those very two cdi that you tested so it was very interesting.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks.

[@grumpyd7569]

Dont waste your money on those orange coils and blue CDI. Stock CDI worked much better, Blue CDI would give me hard and inconsistant starts. Orange coils plastic broke where it plugs into the spark plug after less than a days use.

[@chancesmall7026]

The color of the ignition wire/ cdi box doesn’t matter they make them in every color. Also just cause you buy a better cdi/rev limiter doesn’t mean your engine can handle that power. People try put these cdi’s in a little 50cc -80cc and then wonders why it didn’t add power when that motor is maxed out already. Throw a big bore on, upgraded cdi, and even a mini turbo if you want . No point in upgrading your cdi on a stock bike 50cc it won’t preform cause it’s to much for that little engine

[@stevemichigan541]

wow. time consuming. but no guessing. did similar with pellet guns to get 4 shots thru same hole after 6 months and 5 to 6 thousand shots. you are better at what you do than any MOD vids I have seen. great work

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you!

[@kenbennet8237]

I moved the e clip on needle to the bottom and put 2 small washers under it also and got significant gains

[@EWiggs]

I just watched your video that was one of the better videos ive watched for a long time. I myself have the new 2020 tao tao tbr7 and was really contemplating getting a performance or racing cdi unit, however any video or log i searched to see if they actually do anything all i get is sum kid pligs it in and either is like whoo ots so mich faster with his iphone attached to handlebars lol i loved that you actually pit them too the test and showed actual results and your how to aspect was spot on. That was a real informative video good job! And now i kno that even tho they are cheap im not gunna wast my money!

[@EWiggs]

Lol sorry i was typing real fast on my phone at work and didn't see how bad i butchered my spelling!

[@56321books]

That was the best explanation ever on KZbin! Subscribed

[@drumsandmore4448]

This guy is all business. I like that.

[@ssdtrain1]

Holy Shit !! Brah !! U ARE VERY Professional and Tech Savvy !!! Great Job !! Nice Autozone Rewards Card Too !! :>

[@nplit5993]

Good man. Very informative. Just got my Tao last week and this video is AWESOME. Time to do some upgrades.

[@helidude35]

Informative video. Very well done. Thank you for all the effort you put into it.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks, and thanks for watching!

[@anthonyjulson8840]

I just did the pickup mod to mine and am using one of the blue CDIs. mine is a bitch to start sometimes, but once it warms up, it's smooth!

[@mogyver69]

What a great video. My CDI just went out so I was replacing my CDI. Funny but I ordered both the Orange and Blue CDI you just mentioned in your video before I even saw this video. Only thing I think was missing from your video is a visual of the timing after you machined your pickup. I would of loved to see a visual for comparison. Also by re positioning your pickup I would assume you also advanced your total timing which could end up being a issue for some people. For instance if total advance is 35 degrees by moving your pickup 2 degrees you increased your total advance 2 degrees. In some cases more total advance could cause you to loose top end speed.I know from racing cars 36 total advance was a sweet spot anything over that top speeds would drop off.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. There is a graph at 17:03 that shows it. It's the dark red line. It's exactly the same as the earlier graph of the stock curve, only advanced everywhere by 2 degrees everywhere. It changes the base timing, so whatever CDI you put in there will be 2 degrees more advanced all the way through the RPM range. Even with the aftermarket CDIs shown and the mod, I wouldn't have made it to 30 degrees and they could likely use more for max performance. What would be nice is a truly adjustable CDI, where the entire curve can be changed to get lots of advance at high revs, without big advance at low RPM. Not to mention all of these CDIs kind of ignore the purpose of advance and RPM. It should increase more similarly to RPM. Flat "curve" kinda sucks and just waiting a few thousand RPM and leaping to max kinda sucks too. The CDIs that I know of that allow real adjustment cost half as much as the scooter (something like the MSD 4217).

[@davidparkinson6487]

Thank You its opened my eyes up as I was going to buy new electronics. Love the simple mod. Great video

[@Johnson1281]

Awesome job GT, your very informative on all of your videos. Thanks a bunch brother, keep them coming.

[@Jyrgenstrator]

Great vid! Even tho you told about starting I installed blue "gy6 racing cdi". I also did that advance trick and checked valve clearances. Started immediatly, starts very good cool and hot. Just a 0,2s start is beeded. My 10km average gps speed was 65kph (Edit: 40mph) on hilly countryside. Full throttle rpm is 7000 for 65kph, downhill it goes 75kmh (8000rpm) but I dont like to rew engine. Setup 72cc, stock CH, stock cam, Malossi multivar with 7g rollers.

[@49ccscoot]

One thing about those blue/orange Chinese CDIs is that you may get a different curve with them. Could be that you got one without so much advance at idle. Maybe not. Either way, I'm glad to hear that you've got a good running setup that you're happy with.

[@49ccscoot]

I've got a few BBKs here. I'll be trying them eventually, just not sure when I will get to everything. I thought I'd be way ahead of where I am now in the project, but I didn't expect the CVT to change every 150 miles as shown in update 3. Most important things to me are to change the oil after the big bore install to keep things clean, then give it a couple of oil changes sooner than normal to keep the debris out. Tune the carb and make sure roller/slider weight works well with the new BBK.

[@crpth1]

I've been trough my own share of "projects". That "a couple of oil changes sooner than normal..." is on my permanent list of things to do. Never failed me for a second. One of those projects, saved the car on the day it was going to the scrapyard! Neglected as it was. After recover, took me reliably across Europe several times. Also several other international trips and a lot of commuting in the meantime. Engine, not a single glitch, on all that time. ;-)

[@orfeas92]

We were lucky in Europe with 50cc. We had great 2t liqued cooled scooters like gilera runner. Engine full stock with only an after market exhaust, it was doing around 54mph. With a malossi 72cc kit and an upgraded transmition, you could easily see above 56 mph..

[@49ccscoot]

We have had some good platforms to work on, but not much LC 2T stuff and now the market is pretty much all 4T and seeing more interest in electric.

[@orfeas92]

@@49ccscoot I know that.. The same is happening here. The new European 50cc are 4t with electronic injection, and of course the future is electric. Later, if I have the money, I will have a collection of some 2t 50cc-180cc. Bikes and scooters. There is something different in having so much power from a small engine.. Something that never gets old!

[@49ccscoot]

@@orfeas92 2Ts especially are a different experience. Hopefully we can keep them alive to some degree. Luckily the US doesn't have such strict regulations on scooters, but the 2T market went downhill quick when EPA importing regulations changed.

[@richardcucutahenriquez4436]

Man I like the way you do your videos. A lot of great information. Very usefull. Thanks

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you.

[@timglivefree]

To bad its taken me this long to find this vid ... awesome work ... thx for sharing all the info

[@49ccscoot]

IMO stock coil and pickup mod if you are comfortable with it. If not either CDI was pretty close or you could try from a different seller and see if theirs has a different curve or just leave it alone. I'd take a couple tenths of a second slower acceleration for easy starts. If your CDI is restricted and that's the only reason to buy, you can find stock CDIs really cheap on eBay.

[@davidlinkous7138]

Thanks for the info, very helpful. Think all I am going to do is a 39mm filter NGK plug and orange coil.

[@ipaddy]

fantastic work and great explanation of work and results plus its good to see some real world testing not rolling road and comparisons ill be doing the ignition mod to my scomadi TL 50 next week as the racing CDi did improve pick up but like you no change in top speed but I will be doing some more precise testing like you

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

[@hugieflhr03]

Awesome job with everything in this video. You covered everything perfectly

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you!

[@JB-xi2yv]

Great video. Very thorough, too bad there aren't more comparisons. I'm overhauling and would sooner replace parts THEN troubleshoot versus shifting out the bad pieces.

[@davidsnova]

Any chance that your stock cdi is a 150 cc box? I have installed a few of these on the taotao 50cc and the stock cdi wouldn't let the motor rev past 7,000 but the blue cdi would rev 10,000 rpm.

[@jamesreed7358]

I've been watching your videos, excellent work thankyou for posting !

[@mcghanconcrete]

Awesome video . Great idea moving the pickup coil .

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. Moving ign parts is a trick that has been used on many engines.

[@123ericsb]

Awesome video. As a scientist, I like the multiple trials...good stuff. Based on your trials, I am going to try a main jet of 70 and and idle jet of 35 with 4.75g sliders. Then I will tune the the carb and play with the needle. Again. Pro Video Bro. thanks

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. Good luck with your tuning.

[@jeffebinger1218]

Very thorough tests, thanks for sharing your test results.

[@mafi068]

WOW what a great video! I love the explanation of the cdi etc I have learn so much stuff from this vid! I want to see one for different roller weights.

[@49ccscoot]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWbNaZp-nJqeg8U

[@mafi068]

Yeah thanks, I did watch this one after commenting. Nice :D

[@chrisbarron2528]

I put together the new battery yesterday and dropped it off for a 'slow' charge at Autozone, then ordered the Battery Tender Jr. online at UCLA afterwards, so later this week or next, I'll be able to do my own re-charging at home and only need to wait for that coupon to come in the mail for the free Multi-meter from Harbor Freight, then I'll be able to truly test the voltage and battery power during cranking, which will lead to a lot less hassels when having troubles with a no-start. However, I picked up the battery and noticed that I couldn't put the cover over it, then turned on the power and noticed my $2.00 of gas was all gone, so picked up $1.50 in gas and this time turned the shut-off valve to the 'off' position, so if no leak from the gas tank to the shut-off valve, I'll at most only lose a few ounces of gas in the lower part of the fuel line. Btw, I turned off the shut-off valve after I tried to start it twice and had given up for the day. Before I gave up, I tried cranking over the engine a couple times for a few minutes in two different places and while I noticed much stronger and faster cranking, it still won't turn over! I figure now that after the last no-start that was fixed by putting in a new starter motor, that therefore I can rule out "compression" as the reason for 'this' no-start situation. Then again, I listened carefully to the cranking and that sounds good and saw with my own eyes the flywheel spinning well and it sounds pretty good, so seems like it's possible my spark plug got fouled up. I've got the other 'stock' spark plug from the factory, so will give that a try another time when I've calmed down. Thus, "spark" could be the problem, but thinking maybe that my carburetor, or "fuel" and "air", could also be the problem as well as that carburetor has always given me troubles! The problem is, I need that carburetor to work in a crappy fashion up steep hills, just so I have transportation to get to La Mirada to the Makita Service Center in order to get a new chuck and chuck key, which will enable me to take apart that entire crappy carb and investigate 'all' the problems therein. I know there are several problems and the current no-start might be related to the float 'not' being parallel to the ground and say flooding the carb and/or engine, so the engine won't ignite the fuel-air mixture...which may have also fouled up the NGK plug. Btw, I know I said I had trouble with stalling 'before' this last no-start, but the fact is that even though I haven't been able to start since that bad night I had to push my scoot a long way nearly half the way home, whereby I had a lot of 'stalling' problems, I cannot be sure I 'still' have a stalling problem as I did re-position the connection between the Venturi of the carburetor and the intake manifold, so once I get this scoot started again, 1. my engine might sound normal again and not like I need a new muffler and 2. it might not have any stalling problems at all anymore and running like it did before the first no-start whereby all I needed was a new Starter Motor. I can't be sure if the stalling problem is now fixed, or if I have a problem with stalling due to a dirty Pilot Jet, or Idle Jet, and won't know until it turns over! Anyway, I just wrote to the battery seller to see about an exchange or refund because when I got back home, I checked the height of my stock battery, 3 and 5/16ths inches tall, whereas my new battery looking nearly identical is a little over 4 inches tall, so that's why the cover won't fit, which is fine for now, but this fall during the rainy season, water could get into the battery compartment and destroy it. Anyway,...Do you have any ideas on what could be the no-start problem now? Do you think that the dirt from that construction zone fouling up the air could have sent some dirt into the Venturi of the carburetor where the carb meets the intake manifold and it wasn't snug? Or is flooding in the carb itself and/or a fouled up plug due to flooding more likely to be the cause of the engine failing to turn over? Even though it cranks strongly and quickly, I don't get the sense at all that the engine is trying to turn over. Btw, I figure I'm going to buy a new fuel filter from Autozone that is similar to the Visnu fuel filter you used in your video, then simply take apart the carb and remove the old Tygon hose from the manual shut-off valve to the carburetor itself, as that is where I seem to be leaking gas, then replace that entire section with a fuel filter from Autozone and a new section of Tygon hose. I'd like to replace the fuel line and filter at the same time I take apart the carburetor and put all those new machine screws into place as that seems like the best time to do that sort of work as it's all inter-connected. I'll bet all that lighter method sealing caused a small hole in the fuel line by the fuel filter and will become apparent when I take off that part of the old fuel line. At least I have the metal clamps now for the new length of Tygon hose and new fuel filter, so maybe it will work better the 2nd time. All I know is this scooter failing to start this time is really ticking me off! I'm really starting to think these Chinese scooters are lemons after this no-start and also that sunken nut holding up the mud-guard. Nevertheless, I want this scooter running well and looking good before I get my motorcycle license and a new used scooter, then I'll simply sell it for some cash after I get the new scoot. Hopefully, I'll have better luck with the Aprilia Sportcity 250cc scooter as I hear the new owners brought over engineers from Japan to design their new scooters, so maybe I'll get a more reliable and dependable scooter with this new one. I don't see our scoots as being much different than the Aprilia as far as looks and design, but the two scoots are very different when it comes to engine size! The only new things with the Aprilia I see so far is needing to change the antifreeze for the liquid cooled engine once a year and also needing to know how to repair, maintain and replace the pump, plus it has fuel injection, so need to know how to repair, maintain and replace that as well. Other than those big differences, the Aprilia does look like a very similar scoot, just much bigger than our scoots. The Aprilia is 10 inches longer than our scoots and weighs nearly 80 pounds more, plus the much bigger 15 inch wheels, but the two scoots still have a somewhat similar design. I figure the Service Manual for the Aprilia should tell everything about how to take apart the panels for repair, the engine, drive train, et al. I'll have to get the Service Manual for the Aprilia because I don't think you have any plans to buy the Aprilia and make videos for it.

[@49ccscoot]

Take the plug out after the first time you try to crank it for a few seconds. If it's wet you know at least you are getting fuel, but it could be too much. Turn the fuel on and watch the carb and lines. If fuel is coming out of the carb it may be float height causing this. In that case you can tap the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver or something and that may fix it if the float is stuck, though it's of no use for adjusting to proper float height. You can try leaving the plug out so it can clear out on it's own a bit. While the plug is out, check for spark again. Fixing the starter doesn't necessarily say anything about compression. If you've got fuel and spark and compression feels OK or is tested and shows a good number, then you could try changing mixture settings on the carb if that's not capped. Turn the screw all the way in and count the turns. Write that down. Then back it out maybe 1 turn and see if the scooter wants to start. Then try 1.5 turns, and 2 turns, and 2.5 turns. If it won't start changing that around, set it back to where it was before. The Aprilia should be a totally different level of quality that your current scooter.

[@chrisbarron2528]

***** Thanks for all the tips Brent! I'll give them a try another day. I can't get at that cap yet as I still need to get a new chuck and chuck key for my drill at the Makita Service Center to try to get out that cap and those stinky factory screws on the carb. I may have to take the bus to La Mirada somehow, but don't even know if they have buses way out there! LA is weird, one city doesn't provide bus support to the many other cities outside LA. Yeah, I have a feeling the Aprilia is a better scooter even used and beat up by the former owner as it can be fixed and parts replaced. The reason I don't think compression is the issue if after I put in the starter, it ran okay for a few weeks, just sounded much louder and had the stalling problem, which my guess on the latter problem is it was due to not re-installing the carburetor properly to the intake manifold. I could see that the connection between the carb and intake manifold was loose, but after nearly 6 hours of work and my back killing me, I guess I just put it together quickly and didn't care if it was right or not! But, noticed it wasn't running right and noticed the stalling right away. The stalling was either from not re-installing the carburetor properly, wasn't snug, and/or the pilot jet, or idle jet, getting clogged a little somehow, then after that long night of repeated stalls, seems that clogging got much worse inside the carb.

[@ItsDaJax]

The guy who trained me on gy6 repair said that perfornance CDIs are pointless. Transmission tuning will yield better gains.

[@49ccscoot]

There is merit to the idea of gains with the right ignition curve... it's just that an awful lot of CDIs are little to no better than stock.

[@49ccscoot]

I don't have a lot of scoots around me, but even I can find 'em on craigslist. Keep an eye on that if you really want one. You can get short case minarelli/jog 2Ts from youth ATVs used on eBay.

[@jamest.5001]

The stock coil seemed like it had a stronger spark, on car builds, the coil is the last things I replace,

[@chrisnelson8555]

more like 43mph to be exact. i chopped on the stock variator this weekend and swapped to a 90 main. I finally got jets in mail. I was running a drilled one. I think i need to go larger than the 90 now. acceleration is good but top speed is slower. i had drilled main out to somewhere in the 110 area. Wish had a 2 smoker moped! cant even find an engine to do swap. I had banshee years ago, loved the 2 stroke!!

[@MsKeileigh]

you are the man thank's for the vid You saved me money

[@michaelhudson3445]

thanks for teaching me something new! i'm doing similar experiments with my 139qmb

[@matthewgilmore5307]

just cut the pink wire on stock CDI then take top off card. take needle valve out and move clip to middle slot for more fuel. now your racing !!

[@Hi-lb8cq]

They also sell high torque starters for hard starts for after a big bore job

[@MrTrevorkemp]

Just to let you know according to tao tao the max torque is @ 5500rpm and the max horse is @ 7500rpm the redline is @ 8000rpm if you open up the exhaust you would increase the top end ass well as the cruising speed my 2013 tao tao is stock I have gone on a 55 zone before and going down a long steep hill I was going slightly faster than the flow of traffic in a 55.

[@roywalls5595]

I buy racing CDIs kit came with high performance spark plug A7TC A7TJC 3 & stuck plug wire! It for my 50RTX 50cc with upgrade engine 12.5hp! I have not test it yet to upgrade tail light & headlights plus handlebars mirror and top box hooking up lights to it! Its chain drive automatic!

[@bluesbrother2678]

Good video, we all need perspective, at least you are trying different things.

[@49ccscoot]

If it keeps going after 40 and after this rough spot, maybe you can smooth out all the edges where you were working in case it's hanging somewhere. If you want a new variator you may consider looking on eBay. There is a DLH variator for around $25. It'll likely require different weights to work with it, but it does come with a few rollers and blue clutch springs. Seems like a good deal.

[@49ccscoot]

As shown I have no rev limiter on mine, but with Chinese stuff you never really know. They could have used a different CDI on models made the next day if that's what they had around. Would be a lot easier to tell if you had a tach. Any time throttle position changes the condition, you have to consider the carb, but when you back off you are also slowing down RPM and speed and changing where the sliders and belt and such are.

[@MrSagerific95]

The only gripe I have with your scooter is the massive restriction in your exhaust you made using an automotive wide band. Motorcycle wide bands are much smaller because the piping for a motorcycle/ scooter is much smaller in diameter in relation to the displacement of the engine. I’m not a gambling man but I would bet money if you removed the O2 sensor you installed you would see an increase in performance. Of course you would have to upjet to match your increased exhaust flow.

[@SDsimplelife]

I have the blue racing CDI mentioned in this video, and I can see a HUGE difference. I have a 2008 Kimco super 8 which has a top speed of 65mph, while I have (on very few occasions) gotten it up to 80! I also occasionally take it on the freeway for a few miles to cross a lake on my commute route. But the largest improvement I saw was in the low end speed acceleration. I definitely approve and recommend this mod for anyone looking for the largest improvement for the least amount of money. (Most bangs per buck)

[@chrisbarron2528]

Glad you did this video! I thought that racing CDI and performance coil from that one website for 50mm BBK's looked like great ideas to run faster, which both look nearly identical to the parts you got from scrappydogs, but after watching this video, those parts look like a waste of money as the stock parts look like better ones, starts better for sure, and are cheaper. Btw, I didn't see anything about the location of the Regulator/Rectifier and need to know where it is to check it out. I watched this video and it surely came in handy as I just finished a long search on troubleshooting why an engine won't start and thankfully found a guy who did a video on it that fixes old motorcycles and did a thorough explanation on all the possible fundamental reasons why an engine won't start. I'm not worried about the compression end as my scoot is covered by a 1 year warranty, but his explanations about the other three issues, 1. Air, 2. Fuel and 3. Spark pretty much sorted out all possible scenarios. I hadn't even thought about "Air" as a possible reason why my scoot won't turn over, but taking apart the carb last night had my hands super dirty and regular soap wouldn't even take it off, so all the dirt in LA could have clogged up my Air Filter. I'm not sure of where the air filter is located, but seemed like it's in the Air Box, so bringing my odd-shaped pieces from my ratchet kit to take that apart tomorrow and clean it all. And regarding Spark, I had no idea how complicated that issue is, but it's seems similar to how it worked on my old Toyota Corolla, so this video really came in handy in showing exactly where the Ignition Coil is on our scoots. I'm not really sure if it's the Magneto Stator or not, but good bets would by the CDI and/or Ignition Coil as seems like a lot of CDI's go and then you can't start up the engine. The Stator seems like a tougher fix as I don't have a Flywheel puller, nor an impact wrench, but seems more likely to me that the CDI went bad. My fuel line is good, albeit with leaks, but bringing my little socket that fits those metal clamps, so that ratchet might enable me to install that clamp without taking off the carb again. My carb stinks, but have to borrow a drill to get that screw extractor to work, then again, my carb has been crappy from the first start, so don't think the carb is keeping my engine from starting, no spark seems to be the problem.

[@49ccscoot]

The rectifier/regulator is under the front panel of the ATM50-A1 and quite a few other scoots. It won't cause a no-start. It's part of the charging/lighting system. I show taking off the airbox lid in the vid below at about 6 minutes in. I was messing with the airbox, but once the cover is off you can see the filter in there. Project TaoTao : Carb & CVT Tuning, Airbox Restriction, & Keihin PD19J Swap : 50cc Scooter If you have no spark, fix that first before anything else. You know that's a problem and it needs to be fixed. If it won't start after that's done, then worry about the other things. That said, if you just want to get it out of a parking lot and have to wait on parts anyway, I suppose you might as well check it over.

[@chrisbarron2528]

***** Thanks for clearing up the functions of the Regulator/Rectifier! I just checked out that video and 'still' didn't see that air filter and looked at air boxes and air filters for our scoots for quite some time yesterday, so know what the stock air filter looks like! I'll have to watch the video again more closely! One reason I think my scoot does have spark is that I put in my stock spark plug that I kept after I replaced it about a month after first starting it and I know that spark plug worked just fine when I replaced it. However, the spark plug itself does 'not' regulate when it's time to emit the spark and from what I saw yesterday, the CDI governs that timing and somehow precisely knows when the piston is at top-dead center, so could be the CDI is going bad or gone, so the spark plug isn't firing at the right time. Thanks for sending that link to the "Checking For Spark" video as I figure I'll use that technique to check for spark anyway and see what the ignition coil, spark plug cap and spark plug are doing when I crank the engine. Nevertheless, I think you just helped me troubleshoot the "Spark" end of the four problems on why an engine won't start. I figure I'm still going to start by next cleaning up that air box and air filter and going to buy some starting fluid as well as that helps in starting an engine that has sit for a long time, so that's the case with my scoot sitting for 15 days now. It seems like pretty powerful stuff from the video I saw using it and definitely a good assist after sitting for a long time. I might as well get a chuck-key and take apart that carb and put it back together to get that clean and able to run better next time I'm able to start it. Thanks again!

[@49ccscoot]

The air filter is the black foam thing in the airbox. You can see it when I pull the lid off in that vid I linked to. If you're checking spark as shown in a video I also linked, there will be no question if there is or isn't spark. You can't tell the timing, but you'll know it's there. Either you will or will not see spark and if you do I suggest moving on before you consider timing unless you just happen to have another CDI for a quick swap to see if anything changes.

[@chrisbarron2528]

***** Thanks! I just watched that video and saw the black foam air filter for our scoots. I wasn't looking for a shape like the contours of the air box itself as when searching for the air filter for our scoots online, I saw a lot of air boxes looking just like ours, but the air filter looked completely different, round in shape. Yes, after I re-charge the battery, I'll be able to check for spark like you did in the video, so that will answer that question. Btw, I noticed in that video on checking for spark that the sound of the engine cranking, with the spark plug outside of the engine and ignition coil also disconnected, sounded a lot like the cranking of my engine the past two weeks before the battery begins to get depleted, so definitely I do 'not' have spark, or the spark is not firing when the piston is at top-dead center at least. At this point, I'd say it's narrowed down to only three possibilities, either 1. the spark plug got fouled by a bad fuel/air mix in the engine, 2. the ignition coil is somehow bad and not getting information from the CDI, or 3. the CDI is bad. I thought I'd be fine if I went to the scooter stores I know downtown, but one is closed today and the other closed early and no service people to answer whether they do or don't have a CDI for a 50cc scooter. But, good thing I checked the website of the scooter store that is closed today as a guy commented on their site that this particular local store was just as expensive as a dealer's high prices and he recommended that one go online to get a CDI as a racing CDI and ignition coil can be purchased as a set for under $20.00 on ebay and amazon. But, at this store and at a dealer, the set goes for about $120.00 and that for the racing and performance types that I think your video shows conclusively that the stock ones work just as well, better! I found one stock set online for $11.99 with free shipping, but it takes up to 2 weeks to be shipped! I'm hoping to figure out a way to get next day or 2 day shipping and pay extra for those two parts. Thanks again! It's a relief to be able to troubleshoot this complicated area in such a methodical fashion. After I get a new NGK plug, new NGK spark plug cap and starting fluid all at Autozone, plus that stock CDI and ignition coil hopefully shipped quickly for a fee, first thing I'm doing is taking apart and cleaning up that airbox, air filter and airbox hose so it's like new, let it dry, then spray that starting fluid on the air filter and inside that airbox. Then, I'll empty the gas tank again and attempt to put all 6 metal clamps on the new fuel line to ensure a good vacuum there and I think if I get that chuck-key for my drill, I'll take apart that carb and re-fashion it like on your video so I can tune the carb, then I'll check for spark with the factory spark plug, which at least 'was' good before I tried cranking the engine about 3 to 5 times with the battery nearly depleted on the 1st or 2nd crank. Finally, I'll install the new ignition coil, new NGK spark plug cap (Autozone should have it) and new NGK plug. Hopefully, that will resolve the problem and allow it to turn over again. If not, I'd say the only thing left on the spark side is the Stator Magneto and Pick-up. I'm think though that if I had known how to check for spark a couple nights ago, I would have found that I had no spark at all for some reason and I 'know' that spark plug from the factory worked just fine last time it was in the engine and my scoot was only about a month old.

[@49ccscoot]

Chris Barron What you hear in the video does not mean you don't have spark. You're just hearing the sounds of an engine that's not igniting a mixture. That can happen with no spark or no fuel or no air or low compression... although if compression gets very low you'll often hear it cranking more quickly/easily than normal. If the ignition timing is off a lot of times you'll hear it trying to fire or sometimes backfire or sputter because it's not firing at the right point... but if it's just igntion timing being off there is air and fuel in there so if it makes a spark anywhere near when it should you may hear it trying to start. I just searched eBay for "scooter CDI". Then chose "Buy It Now" and "US Only" and selected sort by "Price + Shipping Lowest First". There are stock CDIs under $5 shipped from US sellers there. Just gotta look through and find the ones for our scoots since that brings up CDIs for multiple engines. You could add 50cc or GY6 50 or 139QMB to the search, but I just search "scooter" sometimes because it brings up more results. You can probably do the same for the coil and get a good price from a US seller. Fast shipping from overseas is EXPENSIVE. Overnight from next door is expensive even. Good luck with it.

[@osmiumsoul9535]

Anything over 50cc does not have a restricted cdi to comply with u.s laws. I wouldn't expect different results on a 150cc, for people who drive 50cc scooter however, it will make your scooters top speed faster.

[@vassilijzietseff132]

just took delivery of my pulse scout 49 49 cc baotian i changed out the cdi to an unrestricted cdi, and saw huge gains as is, stock mph 28 to 31 unrestricted saw speed rise to 41 mph no more mods done yet till i see if it causes damage as reported in some cases, the carb is fully tuneable so a needle {move the clip} mod is next then adjust mixture and idle for another week, if all is well then a full set racing springs, followed by sliders 4.517 sounds good keeping stock pull but increases hill running, i live in the mountains so any increase there would be beneficial a kevlar belt at the slider change seems wise as to eliminate dust and rubber particles from the stock belt being worn at high revs prematurely running on super premium leaded v power has so far seen the most gains in umph, so far on fuel and cdi change only sees speed increases to 53 mph, 500 miles oil changes while modding is advised, when finished a flush of all fluids with new up to temp then drain over night at acute engine angle, and a magnetic plug cleaned regularly is advised, now this last step is my own preference only, but it works for me, mix up an amount of new heavier oil plus friction reducer like slick 50 proportionately and top up engine oil and transmission leave for 2000 miles then repeat oil change process every three thousand miles, it is quieter more power full and cooler, resulting in less wear over longer periods, will keep you updated, if all else fails up grade to big monster over bore kit with head from 49 cc to 90 cc optimal, 70 mph will be regular with moderate to good mpg, i am 62 yrs old and in my teens took my mechanics courses in cars followed for 12 months in the bike shop, believe me i know what i am doing,

[@49ccscoot]

Sounds like you got a good scoot and chose the right starting mods. Don't get too set on one specific roller weight. You'll need to tune to get the best results. Make sure you buy a quality belt. Don't buy the cheap Chinese belts, even if they say kevlar. I like Bando, Gates is another popular one. I would suggest checking your speed with a GPS. If you actually can do 53MPH on flat ground without tailwinds, congratulations; you probably have the fastest nearly stock 49cc 139QMB in the world. I change my oil at 500 mile intervals every time. I have installed oil temp gauges on a couple, and they run HOT. 250-280F in warm/hot weather. An oil cooler does help, and I noticed my oil not being as dark on a 500 mile interval when equipped with a cooler.

[@micromachine7954]

WOW, Nice testing! Finally a real test on these chinese CDI boxes! I would love to see you add an actual OEM Honda CDI box from say a CRF50 or CRF70 just to see how they compare. They are definitely made to a higher standard but I wonder if there would be a difference performance wise. They run the same connecters and are interchangeable with the scooter box's.

[@49ccscoot]

If the timing curves are good, they could be a quality replacement. I don't think they will offer much performance over the other stuff unless the timing is better, but I'd expect Honda parts to be more reliable.

[@micromachine7954]

If you'd like to do a video showing the timing curves in relation to the chinese CDI box's I could send you a CRF50 box. I have a few kicking around and would love some actual data on them! Another thing I was curious about was the rev limiting on these box's, some claim to allow higher rpm's or don't have a rev limiter at all!

[@49ccscoot]

Could be interesting. Sounds like the year the CDI is from must be known to make the info useful.

[@Djexoticdancing69]

awesome video and education as well thank you so much for sharing and for your troubles to share with us on KZbin great job

[@49ccscoot]

+Tony Delgado Thanks for the kind words.

[@Tyriques17]

Hey Gap the Spark plug big difference with performance coil.! :) that why most people see no difference they don't gap the plug.

[@49ccscoot]

I've tested the coil with an adjustable gap spark tester. "Hot" coil won't fire as large of a gap as the stock one. Actually my stock TaoTao coil did better than or equal to every other coil I tried. Another stock coil I had did about the same as the "red hot" coil.

[@MrRjcomm1]

Hekko Mark Awesome job on the video.and would you believe..I just inherited this same bike..these cheap ol chinese Go peds..lol I am going through all the same steps you had to do on this video. Its nice to see you doing it because I know I am on track with what I had decided to do already and am doing now! Time really creeps into these machines if left sitting too long.. and especially with a full tank of gas. My gas had already turned into Varnish it had been sitting so long I have to replace my battery, empty all the rotten fuel that had been clogging things up for sure, and on top of that I have to replace the key switch assembly as it had NO KEYS. I'm testing now in hotwired mode as my NEW Ignition switch is on it's way. You should educate people on a new vid doing the ignition replacement and or how to hotwire, unlock your seat and or gas cap when you have no keys. That was some learning. Keep up the good work, you have a good method on hoe to explain everything. Chers!

[@49ccscoot]

Good luck with your scoot. I have always avoided anything related to hotwiring on purpose. I really don't want to help anyone steal a scooter.

[@49ccscoot]

You should still be able to use the NGK cap on the new coil. I tried it when I was trying to see if I could get the "red hot" coil to do more. If the red hot is on there and not giving you any trouble, you can leave it. It's not that I think it's a bad coil, it just didn't seem to me that it could keep up with the stock coil. We're only asking them to fire a .026-.028" gap normally, not .5", though there are other factors to fight.

[@MTBTexasBikeRider]

Great video very helpful thank you so much 😎👍