Proper way to remove broken exhaust manifold bolt

Broken exhaust manifold bolt removal.

[@waltmoore3095]

I'm a 71 year old retired machinist, I would never drill these bolts out. I just finished doing my third truck welding 1/4" hex nuts onto the broken studs. I weld onto the stud first and build it up a little. Enough to rest the nut on. Weld it, let it cool down, spray some penetrating fluid, use a end wrench and work it back and forth. I've had good results doing it this way.

[@duelette]

Now try that with the engine in the vehicle.

[@johnherrington3416]

Brad Lee have and do for 20yrs+

[@kp4643]

try that on a moped where the bolt is tiny and have to work under then engine

[@dtnel]

Don't think that drill would work on a Drivers Side 04 Tahoe rear bolt where you need a tight tight angle driver and precision. If you go left, go right to far then you go into the threads. 20+ years and if you do them all the time plunk the $$$$$ and try the promaxx kit and supposedly you can drill all the way out and rethread it. One thing I've realized with extractors is they're tapered and they can expand and they expand the bolt your drilling out.ProMaxx also makes a tap that isn't tapered and you have to go with tapping it in and then work it forward and backwards slowly as to not break the extractor. It's a little on the spendy side but well worth it from talking with the mechanics who use itwhich helped me decide on going that rout. I have that set or extractors you have from Mac tools from 25+ yrs ago and it's still in good shape. Have a old tap and die set from back then as well, Mac tools of course. Last few years I've got heavy into automotive and been getting alot of snap on stuff when needed. Get fairly decent deals on the cash stuff as my dealer will really negotiate and surprisingly the stuff I've did truck credit with he's never charged me interest. I bought a scan tool on the Snap On EC and got a low 9.9% so that wasn't to bad. Now put that head your drilling on a engine and drill em out in the engine bay and think about all the manhours saved with something such as the ProMaxx. GM really screwed up and don't have the balls to admit they have flawed exhaust manifold bolts and /or exhaust manifolds that snap in less than 100k miles. Yes sadly I paid out for the promaxx tool kit but I must say it's a worthy investment as besides personal use it'll save alot of time long term and time is $$$$ as we all know to well. The upside with the ProMaxx is long term you'll save time with the on vehicle repair manhours vs pulling the head as the new , early 2000's and newer they use red loctite on the bolts in the aluminum heads. I hate red loctite personally for certain applications. If your doing your personal vehicle send you manifold out if it's in good shape and have machine shop true it up and by all means don't use dorman aftermarket exhaust manifolds or the plastic intakes for that matter. Waste of money for low quality. Myself I'll probably drill it in 2 steps and just chase the threads and not mess with the easy out unless it works between bits really quickly.

[@nickdalton5490]

I've done this on buses where the head sits right at frame rail level. Drain the fluids. Disconnect everything so it's just the engine and transmission connected. Lift engine about a foot up. Come-along or ratchet strap the farthest chain until the engine is at a 45 degree angle. Your head will then be above the frame rail and at a 90 degree which gives you perfect access. Key to drilling hardened steel is low speed and constant/even pressure. Dont forget to lubricate with cutting oil and keep the drilling area clean of shavings as they can build up on the bit. I personally step drill mine in 3 stages an then I pull the threads out with needle nose pliers or a starter tap. Easiest shit in the world.

[@nickdalton5490]

forgot to add....if you use a pnuematic right angle drill and carbide bits....this only takes about 20min per bolt. only extractor you should need is a tap.

[@dandearman2871]

You guys all know they make left handed twist drills don't you? Sometimes using a left handed twist drill to drill the pilot hole will screw out the broken bolt without using the extractor.

[@ITheUnknownManI]

Good tip, thanks

[@JoshuaDoc]

Yup, that's how I got mine out also.

[@jimblack120]

OR you could sharpen the DRILL BIT so it cuts at left round and round . hey kids oil the bit at easy OUT...... go slow Push HARD oil

[@jdcustomz]

Yes this is true does NOT always work. Not many know or have them?. Also what brand would you recommend for others?

[@jdcustomz]

the video quality is not great,I was tired of seeing post about welding a damn bolt on so I went out late at night in the cold and made this so people would not mess up there head. Soon I will get a better video made if needed possibly with a tripod ;)

[@svenp6504]

Welding a nut on works great in an aluminum head. I've seen people do it and it didn't appear to damage the head at all. Unfortunately I've got an iron one so I'll be doing it this way. Nice to see it done, thanks.

[@sara78130]

go to setting change it 720 d p

[@jdcustomz]

Only time heat ever needs to be applied is to break free the oxidation that has bonded the bolt to the cylinder head., even then I would fire my tech if he gets the welder out to remove a bolt using that method.

[@zeke112964]

Why do you think the bolts break in the first place?

[@elliottwatchel9236]

Just weld it, we have done it hundreds of times on all makes and models, cast heads and aluminum. It's easy and fast and does not cause damage. Don't waste your time drilling period.

[@wickerman9569]

Welding is a lot easier. But not every body has a mig. But if you do do this put some oil on your drill bit.

[@jimwinchester339]

1:10 Preferably use a left-hand drill bit. Also, good to use a drill snake to come in straight when the head is still on the engine.

[@jasonsprouse2803]

Welding to a broken stud or bolt in aluminum will extract them 90% of the time. Sometimes you have to weld them 4 or 5 times. Hit them with an impact, NOT a hand tool. The heat is what breaks the corrosion loose. Unless you are using a jig to drill, as soon as the bit hits the side of the bolt or stud into aluminum, you are lost. I've had to drill and tap oversize because of this when I could not extract when the fasteners were too far below the surface.

[@spiritofeli]

yep thats how you do it. I tried to get my manifold bits out with just the drill but my second time it didn't work but then i bought the same extractor kit you used and got the bolt out ream good. great vid.

[@wansolve2036]

dangitilive I couldn't see what brand extractor kit he used, what model was it? Thanks!

[@marklynch8291]

Great job what the name of tools kit you use to do the job I have the same problem with a head on motorcycle

[@islandbeaches395]

I used a electric pipe threader and a manual hand threader and I can not tread with out the oil or drill press. Make life much easier.

[@xXHoratiuTheBobXx]

Thanks man I have a broken bolt on my charger r/t after putting headers on my self and now it has a tiny exhaust leak. I was banging my head on the wall for so long until I saw this.

[@chrissample3047]

They have exhaust putty work pretty good Good luck

[@joedejesus6363]

Great Video. good job. That's the way I would have done it, except when using a drill bit I would have oiled the hole or drill bit at intervals to reduce the heat and prolong the life of that bit. Awesome Tutorial Thanks.

[@raleigh5here182]

Thanks from all of us poor saps that do not have a welder at our disposal. Good job.

[@chantelrhine8965]

You can buy a welder to do this for 179.99 life is about investments make some

[@raleigh5here182]

@@chantelrhine8965 you have a very skewed philosophy on life.

[@waltmoore3095]

​@@raleigh5here182lol, ok so rent a welder, mr. Negative.

[@raleigh5here182]

@@waltmoore3095 why rent when i don't need to? Shove your name calling where the sun don't shine.

[@Peculiarsafe83]

⁠@@waltmoore3095You must be able to grow money in your backyard then Mr Can afford everything.

[@kennethbrady9832]

I hear that applying oil to the bit helps cool the bit and helps cutting.

[@jacobpatterson1091]

Kenneth Brady omg lol

[@allywilkeforsenate]

Heat also helps remove the bolt when useing left handed bits.Bits are cheap heads are not.

[@paulhaines5755]

Hey any you guys tried to use a Dremel to put a flat slot in it for a flat screw driver then heat it up real good then use screw driver to try to back it out? Seems to me that gives you a couple shots at it. If slot don't work, go to welding on nut or this easy-out method or what evs. If it was me, I want a couple whacks at it - not just one to f it up.

[@jdcustomz]

Yes. If not siezed it can come out.

[@jessstuart7495]

Keeping the drill centered is the key. Not always easy to do, especially if the drilling face (broken bolt) is not flat, and if you don't have much room for your drill.

[@jdcustomz]

Use a tap, sharpen if you need. Make a pilot.

[@JohnDoe-ww6on]

Great video thanks... we're did you get the extractors ?

[@jdcustomz]

Matco

[@thorsredemption609]

I love you bro thanks I have to do mine here soon the guys at the shop wanted to charge me 1100 dollars just to fix the broken bolts

[@PolarisJD]

Do you have to worry about getting shavings in the exhaust ports in the engine?

[@jdcustomz]

i usually stuff port with a heavy duty paper towel like blue scotts prevent as much as possible if any. dont forget to pull it out or will burn up before cat.funny smell.still safer than red rag, worst case ruin the cat

[@JF32304]

if you do just take a shop vac and suck them out no big deal.

[@kravmaga7070]

i tried this method after trying to mig globs of metal onto the sunken stud and they just twisted off. then i tried center punching and drilling but the drill still went off center i suspect cuz the hardended mig metal was harder than stud. TLDR the stud turned about 1/3 turn b4 breaking offf in hole ! so went back to trying mig globs on there or nut on there but 2 more nuts just twisted off. maybe have better luck with fast freeze 6013 stick welding today otherwise i may have to swap on new/used head i alrady have on another long block laying around. unless you got better idea?

[@martinhudson2657]

Just use a left handed drill bit do a little drilling until it catches. And it well come out so easy

[@ASEWorldClassTech]

is it general practice to just let metal shavings fall in the ports?

[@silencer9112]

I think it is. This guy knows what the fuck he is doing...

[@jdcustomz]

Yes, helps lubricate your piston rings.

[@petejoseph8257]

I weld over sized like 10mm and 3/8 nuts to the broken studs, then use a wrench to remove them. 5 mins per broken stud. (Not with engine in the car)

[@gkz871]

Hi, Where you bought the six conner remover? I have worked one week for remove 3 broken bolts, but they are still stuck :)

[@chrissample3047]

Look up on utube best bolt extract kits

[@CarAds4U]

Thanks for the helpful video. Given that so many LS exhaust manifold bolts have been breaking for years, what is the reason. Poor quality bolts from the factory?

[@LSDale]

The bolts are too small for the application, but GM has not addressed that issue. The small bolts combined with 3 different materials, a cast aluminum head, a cast iron manifold, and a forged bolt that is too small in diameter turns into a nightmare. The biggest factor is that the manifolds seem to warp when they get hot and the poor little bolts cant take the stress, and the get their heads popped off. Usually, when people go to fix exhaust leaks on these, they find that the bolts come out easily, but some are broken before they even touch them. As you can see in the video, the remains of the bolt came out pretty easy, its just a matter of either drilling a hole and using a good extractor that won't break off or welding a nut to it.

[@CarAds4U]

@@LSDale I'm assuming that the factory bolts were not Grade 8 bolts. Would it make sense to use Grade 8 bolts after pulling the broken bolts out?

[@LSDale]

@@CarAds4U I just did the passenger side of mine yesterday and will be doing the driver side tomorrow. I used the Dorman manifold which appears to be slightly different than the stock one, and leads me to believe it wont warp like stock, as well as the Fel-Pro ES 75120 bolt kit. They are a grade 10.9 Neutral Harden. Looks good so far, will see how they last.

[@jdcustomz]

Type of Material, Heat cycles, manifold design and more often the weight of the remaining system becoming more prominent because of failing exhaust hangers or engine/ trans mount flex.

[@johnclark3431]

No bad, but the slower the better. I bought a set of reverse drill bits that work great for this cuz all you gotta do is drill a pilot hole,then just every bit after that to make the hole bigger. Once you get the hole big enough the bolt will grab the drill bit and break free, spinning right out. Easy outs are nice but they expand the bolt many times making it difficult to to turn out.

[@jdcustomz]

They work as well. Did not have a set.

[@Rickgrant1984]

Thats one way great job!!! Ill share one technique that I learned that can save tons of time ( not my quickest) i will build up my broken bolt with a tig welder very carefully without getting into the threads, then allow it to cool slightly , then apply wax to seep into the threads, then weld a nut onto my built up stud ... And work it out.. when doing this to the ls heads you dont have to worry about welding the threads because they are aluminium because it wont weld. Also the heat from the welding helps break the seizing up.

[@jeroenschuuring6060]

Richard Grant the heat does most of the work actually. most times a good pair of pliers is enough to get them out once they've been heated properly

[@joshbugalski901]

Got a link to that easy out set? I've been trying different ones and they are all failing

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

plug up any ports so bits of metal don't get inside your engine

[@jdcustomz]

Give this man a cookie.

[@kevinhancock4064]

Where may I ask is the video of the one you say you'd remove without extractor? Are the snap on ones mate? I do own a set now I like many worry that we will snap the easy out bits in the bolt mine are pretty damp tight I gitb2 out fully 2 on the move a and 3 snapped any advice is appreciated great video cheers

[@mt1885]

In the truck it is another challenge - those 'ezouts' if it breaks off in there (one has to weld a nut to it) to me that distorts the aluminum almost be better to pull the head off.

[@funnytube3273]

What happens is you drill to much and antifreeze gushes out of the hole???

[@aguilayserpiente]

Please let us know when it is best to use this method and when to weld a nut onto the broken stud. Good video instruction.

[@jimblack120]

jeezz miss miranda u r a nut at wanting to be welded to stud ..............????

[@djcharbot]

link to video to remove bolt without extractor?

[@backyardbuilttrucks1]

A little anti- seize would stop this . and use studs next time.

[@Kakashigaming7]

I’ve been driving around with 2 of my broken One on driver side one on passenger side Can this cause any damage

[@christopherzube551]

If it's on the exhaust then no. If it's just one on each side you will either not notice any difference or the exhaust might get louder

[@articrevised6182]

depends on the car, my saab having 2 missing on one side is causing a leak and the o2 sensor is making the fuel rich to makeup for the leak, just get in there and look where it leads to, over time running rich/lean will cause damage

[@shanek6582]

If it unscrewed that easy, why did it break off to start with?

[@rasmadrak]

Metal fatigue.

[@bishop5166]

good vid, I just broke 4 bolts in my passenger side head...I airline what's going to happen on the drivers side. I bought a 02 escalade for 700 bucks of what they thought was a rod knock, but in fact it's a pitted lifter or 2.

[@jdcustomz]

Score!

[@bnrz28]

What size drill bit is that

[@TheMikevt]

go to the bulk barn and buy some alum. mix it in some water, silicone a piece of pcv pipe over the unwanted stud, pour in the water /alum solution, and wait. after a day or so(cause thats how long your going to be at this anyway.) the bolt will turn into solution and leave the aluminium head unharmed and threads intact. or just weld on a nut and be done with it.

[@jdcustomz]

I will have to try this soon. I will get back to you about that.

[@Templeman420]

Cover your ports bro. Nice video though thank you

[@JF32304]

I'd of just welded notes on the ends of the broken studs and be done with it. if you do the drop method you have a high risk of going into a water jet and that's a head swap. use the weld method and save a head.

[@jdcustomz]

Ill post the video of Aprillia RSV4 8mm bolt breaking weld as many claim to do on camshaft cap bolts. Another shop over tq when doing valve job.

[@OVI-Wan-Kenobi-8]

Is this with the engine removed? Or is this with the engine still on the vehicle? What vehicle is this?

[@kwakkers68]

The engine's sat on a tyre - it's removed.

[@jdcustomz]

first time I ever done outside of engine bay, My customer bring there vehicles with broken stud I remove while engine is inside of bay.

[@krubruder1121]

I would love to see how you remove that broken one in the back while that engine is inside the bay. Can you make a video of that because it's kind of a pain in the ass to just remove the engine to get a broken bolt out.

[@stoneyswolf]

This is the hard way. The easy way is to take a nut fairly large in size something you would use a 17mm socket on and place it over the broken stud. Then weld in the center welding the stud first then working out welding the nut to the stud until the hole is filed. Then let it cool and it comes right out. Takes more time for it to cool than to weld it and remove it.

[@bishop5166]

Proper way is to get a cheap ass harbor freight welder and weld a nut to it.

[@buffystclair9042]

Cant believe i had to go thru 20 comments b4 a guy said “ now try it in the vehicle “ , especially that rusted broken one on this block which would mean your working under the brake booster and have to a contortionist drill or drill bit to articulate around the steering column shaft

[@kwakkers68]

What brand extractors are those? They look nice :-)

[@jdcustomz]

kwakkers68 Matco

[@kwakkers68]

Thanks :-)

[@GMZee559]

Same stanking bolts broke on mine too

[@Utubegofukurself]

Nah, weld a bead on the head of the bolt. Turn out with vice grip or weld a nut to it a d use a socket. Works every time

[@creedbates9604]

What kit is thay

[@DMD81773]

No welder and a nut?

[@bigbill74scots]

Well said on the internet warriors. Buy that man a beer!

[@jdcustomz]

Guiness drought please.

[@jdcustomz]

Guiness drought please.

[@Torrico97]

What tools kit did you use man

[@jdcustomz]

Matco

[@brucefoster8084]

It's a lot easier when the engine is out of the car, but still a good job.

[@mftbruce]

I love it...your awesome bro obviously a real Professional

[@jdcustomz]

Thank you sir

[@Darren87aero]

hey great video man, . I gotta question, What kind of EZ out kit did you use?

[@jdcustomz]

Matco or snap on will have to look in tool box

[@dwaynefetterolf5298]

Darren87aero heafboltd

[@jdcustomz]

www.matcotools.com/productimages/sexs10.jpg

[@Darren87aero]

thanks man, gotta get me a set.

[@adamUDavies]

So why do these bolts keep snapping off in the heads ? Cheap inferior bolts ? Surely GM wouldn't be cutting the cost using cheap bolts.

[@davidalbertson6690]

Ford and Dodge have the same problem. I wonder if exhaust temps are higher on these modern engines?

[@Nick-oy5fn]

the method is proven, it just takes way more time and energy than welding a nut on. also, it can be tough access to drill accurately with the engine still in the vehicle. to each their own.

[@jdcustomz]

I can appreciate your thoughtful honest answer.

[@jajupa78]

um just try doing this with the engine still in the vehicle. Engine on the spare tire easy repair, engine still in the 15 different platforms gm put this motor in much different story...) nice job man,nice video.

[@jdcustomz]

I have videos of doing it in other vehicle.I does this weekly for 16+ years its really not difficult unless you make it so, Good look think outside the box.

[@jdcustomz]

jajupa78 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqavfmttd6ucnqM

[@alphonse53]

Wow! All the wiring in the way magically disappeared. With the engine and manifolds removed, it's easier to weld a nut.

[@m-sekld1268]

Where can I get those extractor from?

[@jdcustomz]

Matco

[@dpmulvan]

If your drilling metal buy some tap magic cutting oil and some good drill bits or use a masonry bit. Better still use a mig welder!!! Easy outs are crap they break 90% of the time.

[@gavinpickens7354]

alright alright any ever tell you that you sound like matthew McConaughey . Great video man.

[@jtetterton]

Gavin Pickens lol I thought the same thing!!

[@jdcustomz]

Lol. Would be better if ya did man.

[@rustynuckles3662]

I guess all of the videos where the easy out broke off in the bolt never got posted ! That was an easy one !

[@jdcustomz]

Ill make the video for you buttecup..

[@JeffreyStrader]

Dang look at that pilot bit flex!....Hahahahahaha

[@phillip_mcguinness7025]

Another trick to drilling to a measured depth, is simply wrap some tape around the bit where you want to stop.

[@jdcustomz]

or use your finger nail as a reference point pull out drill bit and determine the length vs extractor

[@JF32304]

or just weld a nut to the outside of the broken stud and just unscrew it. save a head.

[@GuciTheBulldog1]

I definitely would not go this route !! Weld a nut on that bold n you're good to go !! Especially with the block out !!!

[@artistinthesky]

actually not a bad vid. Hopefully this is a throwaway block with all the metal filings blowing into the exhaust (i would have covered them with masking tape) but it shows the technique, and it is explained well. But why not spray some WD40 on it prior to extracting it out? All in all good quick and dirty technique. thanks.

[@TheXboxeraser]

I would have at least put a cloth or something in the exhaust hole so metal shavings don't go down in the engine block.

[@jdcustomz]

I agree I make my techs use a red rag but me I am just that damn good. Not a single shaving fell inside. :)

[@chrissample3047]

Good job

[@chenzitong1]

ive had the misfortune of having an easy out snap off in the head. im not a fan of easyouts unless the bolt is easy to get out! if there seized do NOT use an easy out !

[@tdogboy7254]

Cheri z how did you get it out after that

[@tanglewood777]

how do you get the dril bit out if you snap dril in bolt

[@slickluigi11]

Great video. Thanks

[@ggarza7882]

Fu@k yea man thanks for the video i have a 2006 Silverado you think this can be done with out taking the engine out let me know thanks or if you have any other tips ( the bolt broken is driver rear ) 😬

[@jdcustomz]

its common there,lots of patience and right angle air drill.worse case drill out bolt and helicoil. just don't drill to deep

[@islandbeaches395]

Cutting oil will help.

[@mikegross1810]

I have 2 broken with motor in Problems

[@iamgoat3035]

HAHAHA, i have the same engine stand and my same bolt was broke off on my 5.3 but i had all the threads showing just just stick welded a nut on there and it came right out. BUT kitty corner bolt on other manifold broke with zero threads showing ! :-( hopefully this works

[@navajohercules7583]

What if the extractor breaks in the bolt

[@bobberguy1]

Then you're screwed. Takes a diamond tipped bit to go through hardened steel.

[@banditdad9837]

Time for machine shop!

[@ITUMBLE4U]

You can use a Dremel Tool with s grinding stone. It takes a while and you'll use several bits, but the hardened tool steel of the extractor gets pulverized into powder. Don't ask me how I know this. ;-(

[@jimpinckard7891]

Dam!!!! I get motion sick trying to watch this.

[@jdcustomz]

Dramamine will help

[@andrewsommers8298]

and then when you get it good an focked take it to the machine shop and have some one who knows what they're doing fix it.

[@jdcustomz]

Your a jackass.

[@INTERNA9]

Good job!

[@lutemule]

Use a colbalt bit

[@chantelrhine8965]

I just did 4 of these with the engine in with a welder and a pack of marlboro

[@jamesjanice5344]

you need a 8ft drill bit if the engine is still in the vehicle. lol

[@jdcustomz]

😅🤣

[@chantelrhine8965]

Don't hit your water jacket

[@theshark2804]

Yep. Then I drilled too far. Head is junk now.

[@JoseGomez-zi2zn]

good job!

[@dacollecta2000]

Thanks man

[@NYPATRIOTBX]

Proper way to waste time and possibly drill into the coolant jacket.

[@buffdaddy2032]

What kind of cars that? The motor is sitting on it's tire? Lmao

[@kbrx4310]

Sorry man but the easiest way is welding a bolt and Ive been doing it that way since the 80's professionally as an ase master tech ..a lot of people have a really hard time drilling them in line with the bolt especially in a cramped engine bay and not many guys have a right angle drill either, not to mention if you break an extractor in it or drill off center your fucked.

[@johnherrington3416]

I call BS. What test section is that covered in their Master tech? As I fill in for tech instructors when they are ill or out of town?. I will be waiting but not holding my breath. Also when you take your ASE test do you bring a calculator or do you use your phone for testing? Serious question. This is a poor video of me having enough of those who resort to welding when it is not needed. Using basic tools around the garage.

[@kbrx4310]

John Herrington it's called work smarter not harder after a long time in the field you learn tricks that save you time and the customer labor hours .

[@twizzlestickx7]

it needs to be a tungsten drill bit

[@jdcustomz]

Tungsten suck. Harmonics easily break. Use black oxide.

[@godofplumbing]

Give that a shot with a e350 with the 7.3 diesel... Not being a dick, but I'm working on that right now. Absolutely sucks.

[@jdcustomz]

Have on bigger engines than that. I work on Gensets upto 3.4 mW. Little tiny 7.3l are like lawn mower engines to me... see my other videos of the size of engines I work on.. engines bigger than most men. Thanks for the concern tho. I always say to my employees, I make it look easy son.

[@godofplumbing]

@@jdcustomz absolutely, but do it on a e350 van (engine not pulled) in a driveway when it's 5'f and the wind @ 30 knots. It's not the size of the engine it's the circumstances around it. I do Plumbing, Heating, Cooling and Air Conditioning heavy commercial. I've taken out snap bolts on pumps that are powered by Huey helicopter engines. The diameter of the bolts are over 4" and there's 150 of them. Also sense these pumps are powering City water to 1 million homes, if the power goes out. So the city is over your shoulder watching you and rushing you. That is a cakewalk compared to this f****** Ford van. Haha. I have watched your other videos you are talented, methodic, and explain things without rushing. My comment was just frustration.

[@jdcustomz]

www.matcotools.com/productimages/sexs10.jpg This is the kit.

[@kchilz32]

JDCustoms High Performance Tuning llc are you in New England? I need someone to replace my exhaust manifolds on my 2000 Ford F-150

[@bruceg1845]

Damn, you need to use some cutting oil!!!

[@jdcustomz]

Bitch about something huh. Go slow you dont need oil.

[@fehmiyarayan]

get a tripod man...

[@jdcustomz]

would be to easy,will take advice for future videos

[@phillip_mcguinness7025]

Some cheap point and shoot DSLR (T3i is pretty darn cheap) camera with a video function, and a 15$ Targus tripod will go a long way as a start.

[@jdcustomz]

since you asked nice OK

[@phillip_mcguinness7025]

BTW I tried this and broke the extractor, it happens sometimes. Went with the Dremmel and two chainsaw bits and carefully ground it all out then chased the threads.

[@jdcustomz]

Pssst. I finally got a tripod.

[@redwolfmaddox3986]

Use ez out

[@whoknows9574]

That is not the way to drill a hole

[@juanyoi87]

Dude official