I made a CUSTOM Nozzle that 3D Prints GEL!

[@properprinting]

It took way too long for me to post a new video and a lot has happened since. I’m back and we are going to make awesome stuff! You can find the printable files of the pump on my website properprinting.pro/product/non-pulsating-peristaltic-pump/ I hope you enjoy this video and leave a comment if you’ve got suggestions!

[@VincentGroenewold]

No worries, take your time when it's needed, otherwise you'll get the KZbin burnout. :) Creations like this simply take time as well and it's so refreshing to see.

[@dev-debug]

Awesome video, thought I've tried some crazy things but this idea is cool as hell lol I prefer good videos over many videos so yeah no problem.

[@impressions3d]

For fume silica you should a precision scale to have a repeatable result. 5%-10% by weight=putty. So you can to a mix of A-380 for thixotropy and glass bubble for bridging. But to achieve good result just use a scale.

[@t-risely]

DUDE, I can't wait to see you succeed on this! You're single handedly creating a whole new way of printing! Something companies hire teams of people to do. Keep at it, never give up! Every day you're getting closer, i'm rooting for you man

[@jeanpierrelabonte2868]

This is real research!

[@ZURAD]

Can't wait to see where you take this! Been aching for a RepRap continuous fiber system for YEARS. Cheers 🍻

[@jobonotoe]

Why has no one commented on this lol

[@ZURAD]

@@jobonotoe They're afraid of my mega mondo bucks donation

[@erispe]

I love the ambient build montages. You could definitely make separate "companion piece" videos with just music and footage :)

[@forivall]

Like Alan Fisher's (armchair urbanist) train and transit mixes

[@eugeniolabruna4140]

It seems that in the last benchy the nozzle was hitting the rest of the print during travel moves. Try to use Z hop or give a conical shape to the point of the brass tube. Awesome project

[@xomm]

Usually the downside with z-hop on FDM is stringing though, which would mean leakage here. Unless the peristaltic pump can "retract" fast enough.

[@oddzc]

What about if you turned the lasers off at layer changes

[@eugeniolabruna4140]

@@xomm i think that the resin Is thick enough to not leak during Z hop

[@HonestAuntyElle]

​@@eugeniolabruna4140there's a delay effect from when you stop pumping though.

[@AmaroqStarwind]

@@xomm that can be resolved with diagonal z-hop

[@jarrenvanman2570]

You continue to amaze me with your ability to attack a problem and work through it. Another great video and smooth edits.

[@RandomKhaos]

This is why I love this channel. I appreciate the fact that you include your successes and failures during your design iterations. You can learn so much from seeing the whole process.

[@nigelsamhain1040]

Just discovered your channel whilst researching a resin project of my own. I previously attempted adapting FDM to resin using the leurloc syringes you mentioned, using the "Frostruder" idea. Had issues getting the flow rate dialed in as the viscosity of the resin presented challenges Ive been attempting to overcome. The gel you created shows lots of promise, I will attempt making some of my own and experimenting with different formulations. Greatly anticipating getting this technique to work myself. Keep up all the good work, you're onto something big.

[@properprinting]

That's awesome! Keep on experimenting and I truly believe that this enables so many new possibilities! I hope that you'll succeed!

[@m_IDEX]

You inspired me to try printing liquid PVA. Imagine how much easier soluble boundary support would be. Just jet some warm liquid PVA between plastic support and the part. Can't wait to finish watching your video!

[@properprinting]

That's a very interesting idea!

[@UNVIRUSLETALE]

That is a genuinely great idea

[@Peter-DOC-Docter]

Yeah that would also be a good alternative.

[@CAPTAINCAPSLOCK111]

But when, as you said, you jet it between the support and the part, you already got your part at this point, so why still need the support?

[@m_IDEX]

@@CAPTAINCAPSLOCK111 Not after the fact, but as you print layer by layer. The glue layer is the only thing that touches the part. This way you don't need a gap between support and part, resulting in perfect bottom surfaces.

[@ThePostApocalypticInventor]

Hey Jon, I just watched the video and wanted to tell you that I think you did an awesome job in putting this video together! Over the years I have worked on countless projects that went on and on, beause I was trying to do something noone else had tried. Very often I had to leave these projects half-finished because weeks and months had gone by and I didn't have final results to show. I often had partial success at what I was trying to accomplish, but I eventually had get back to 'safer' projects to feed the KZbin machine. Last but not least: Working on one seemingly endless project for months, can lead to a feeling I can only describe as feeling 'burnt out'. I commend you for sharing your struggles in this video!

[@properprinting]

Thanks Gerolf for this comment and we are definitely in the same boat. The projects I referred to in the end of this video are indeed "safer", yet still interesting. Sometimes you need to do a project which is mostly fun to do and where you know you can handle it. Just like playing with Lego's. I think that a good mix between this helps to keep your sanity and joy into making. That feeling of burnt out is definitely what I experienced lately and I'm so grateful to how this video is received!

[@802Garage]

I have worked at a medical pump company. They made both peristaltic and syringe pumps. Have you considered using a syringe to pump the resin? It would be easier to load and prime. You just need a gear reduced stepper motor to turn a screw to press on the syringe. In this way it would be easy to control the flow as well. The calculations for exactly how much resin you are pumping are very simple for any given syringe size, thread pitch, motor speed, and reduction. It would basically work like a threaded Z axis, but for your pump! I'm sure you get it.

[@802Garage]

Just as a note, and because I really want you to see my comment, they do make syringes in huge sizes like 100ml or more. You could also make a syringe pump which can pump any number of syringes at a time, like two for if you wanted to mix materials in your new fancy nozzle. Plus it would be a convenient way to store ready to use resins. No chance of spilling and way less mess on the hoses since you could just use Luer lock. Best of luck!

[@properprinting]

Thanks for your advise! I made a video a while back where I used a syringe to print pastes and it worked very well. I used a flexible axis and the required torque was too high, so I ended up printing mayonnaise. I switched to this pump instead of a syringe because I like that this doesn't have a limited volume. Especially when printing big. I think that it's ideal that you can just refill it during print. I still favor the use of the pump instead of a syringe because I think that this enables more possibilities. Therefore, the trouble I run into are worth solving, so I can improve on this concept.

[@802Garage]

@@properprinting Awesome totally makes sense. Thanks for the detailed reply! Really love all your projects.

[@skelingtonrick]

alright I do have a couple of thoughts, one, is that there is already a somewhat established process for printing thick liquids like chocolate, something like that likely would not work with a standard resin but the thickened resin you first made that demonstrated its ability to form its own little tower, it seems to me like such a system would work, secondly, I think once you incorporate a fiber the surface tension around the fiber could support itself much better, possibly being able to use a thinner mix than you currently need to achieve success Very cool to see this project. I also do a lot of tinkering and printing and ive been thinking about this type of printing for a while

[@chemistclips]

Regarding adding the continuous fiber, I was wondering if there would necessarily be a minimum viscosity for the gel, in order to keep it stabilized when printing features that cause a sudden change in tool head direction. Specifically because there's some delay on curing due to the way the laser is masked around the nozzle. The effect might be like the situation you can force with FDM printing an inner wall of a sphere too fast it overcomes the cooling and the nozzle begins to pull the extrusion taught.

[@hallowedshade125]

I feel your frustration and let me say: I'm so proud of you for not giving up! Such a small tweak for such and excellent result. I can't wait for Resin Gel FDM at home, this will be a game changer. You will have your own brand and line on day 😉

[@JustKyzuuh]

So glad you're back! You've been such an inspiration for myself and so many others! The ASMR assembly section of this video was super satisfying!

[@E3DOnline]

This is genius! Great content Jon 👏👏

[@properprinting]

Thank you!

[@oljobo]

AWESOME‼️ I am in AWE of your work, your research, your patience, your stamina etc etc. (Yeah, AND your videos!) For me, you are just like the BIG inventors/explorers/discoverers we read about in our history books. May you forever be connected to an abundance of inspiration! 🙏🥰

[@properprinting]

Thanks, your comment helps so much! I completely lost my motivation during the making of this video and I'm so happy that I continued. Comments like these is what I keep in the back of my mind on moments like these.

[@UncleJessy]

This is exactly why I love KZbin. Whacky awesome projects like this

[@sgt.sasquatch]

We missed you

[@brandb16]

You have to keep going! You're literally creating a new technology for the world! The fruits of your labor are untold but I'm willing to bet it'll be mainstream in 5 years or less. My recommendation is create or buy a small compressor. Create a sealed reservoir with a pressure transducer. Find a pressure that works well with your tube length. Then tweak the printer to control the compressor to maintain a specific pressure. I think that'll give you the consistent results you're looking for. Your pump will be more like a variable valve at that point.

[@sandermartens378]

Het Nederlandse gescheld maakt dit echt geweldig, succes met je resin printing avontuur!

[@TimPiatek]

Amazing work! Not only does this facilitate continuous fibery enforcement, but also potentially the use of different resins for different parts of the print, allowing the specific physical properties of each individual resin to be best utilized. This may be one of the most significant home fabrication projects I've ever seen. Only other thing that you could possibly do that would be quite so cool. Would be to use a infrared laser or some such thing to partially melt a bit of filament ahead of the printhead for standard FDM 😜 You're doing amazing work, keep it up!

[@BitcoinIsGoingToZero]

You are missing a key application: UV crosslinkable hydrogels. This is how 3d cell scaffolds are printed for tissue engineering. If you could offer a lower cost version, researchers (like me) will be interested.

[@MorlockEngineering]

Great video

[@MelSavageKiller]

Amazing, so glad you didn't give up. Can't wait to see the next iteration.

[@ShaneGraber]

How about mixing the two? You can add both glass bubbles and fumed silica and try that. The fumed silica will thixotrope to the point that the glass bubbles will not sink / float out of the resin.

[@Thomllama]

use a little of both the glass and Silicone? getting the advantages of each but low enough content to keep the bad properties at bay? totally guessing here!

[@Skaadi89]

I was going to suggest the same thing, I think that May work

[@properprinting]

That'd be worth trying, thanks!

[@Skaadi89]

It may need quite a bit of fine tuning the ratios could be as fine as a few granules more or less to get consistency correct

[@timoldguysgaming8432]

Out of the box thinking! I love it, keep up the hard work. It's defeating when things don't work out, but it's oh so satisfying when they go right. The possibilities are really open on this type of printer, and an easy retrofit for those that don't want a bunch of printers capable of one process.

[@kersgames6382]

"ah nee, tiefus" ik ging helemaal stuk. Ik studeer op dit moment aan de universiteit van Eindhoven en wil toch even zeggen dat ik je werk heel erg waardeer. Mensen zoals jij maken de kloof tussen de industrie en academie kleiner!!

[@properprinting]

Gaaf, bedankt man! Succes met je studie!

[@IBUILTTHAT]

WOW. I've seen plenty of attempts at this but most gave up after they experienced the buildup on the nozzle. It looks like you're really close to a good solution, don't give up!

[@DamienRobertsonYYC]

For the resin, I'd be tempted to treat it more like an IV bag. This gives you 3 main advantages: 1) Gravity will help push everything through the system. 2) If the container is sealed, you could add a pneumatic fitting to the top to pressurize it. 3) Easy to refill mid print, assuming you have an opening on the top as well.

[@robertotomasini2072]

Nice idea. Loctite pistol dispenser for UV resin works exactly like this (minus the IV part). It's like a pressure cooker with a tube exiting from the top

[@SilvaDreams]

Yeah was going to say gravity feeding it will drastically reduce the work of the pump so it's not trying to pull the thick fluid up and into it. As for the rest of the problems well I'm not sure there is much you ca do about it bridging gaps, there is a reason why current resin printers work from the top of the piece down, it's much easier to use a laser to activate it at the point instantly hardening it rather than ejecting a fluid then trying to get it to harden.. It'll always drip or turns into a string causing lumps in the working surface as is the nature of fluids

[@whatif8741]

Needs to heat the resin

[@oakforestbreeze]

Keep going, we are rooting for you.

[@properprinting]

Thank you!!

[@hellspawnfpv8363]

awesome!!! don't give up, look how far you've made it already!!!

[@properprinting]

Never give up! Thanks for your supportive comment!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Don’t give up, mad geniuses like you make the world a better place!!

[@eve_squared]

Mount a pvc pipe above the extruder and use a threaded rod to push a plunger into the pipe extruding the resin at a fixed rate under it's own hydraulic pressure. Also perhaps think about changing out the tubing or even buying a fiber sleeve for it so the tubing itself does not expand while trying to print.| Edit: Maybe also start a discord for people to give feedback on projects as you're trying to solve problems. I definitely thought about modeling this in fusion for you when I thought of it lol.

[@LawrenceKincheloe]

Look at the clay extruder printers, they just use an air piston to press a pusher plate in a tube to get the flow needed. It requires a separate compressor but not a terrible option. That setup is used for dispensing paste for solder.

[@thenextlayer]

Amazing work Jon... always remember, the breakthrough always comes RIGHT after you're ready to give up... sometimes.

[@iJunzy]

i think you need to go back to the regular nozzle geometry. The reason it works for regular fdm printing is that the nozzle shape acts like a ramp, pushing any irregularities along its path back down to the print, minimizing snags etc. probable reason it didnt work for you last time is that the laser has a gap from the nozzle tip (the shadow produced by nozzle) which means the resin can climb up the nozzle before hardening. Try targeting the actual perimeter of the nozzle tip so it hardens before getting any chance to climb up the nozzle

[@properprinting]

Thanks for your advice! Maybe a combination of both the regular nozzle tip and the two o-rings could be an interesting option. The way that this seals off works like a charm!

[@bewaretheintertubes]

This is my absolute favorite 3d printing channel.

[@Lamia768]

Hey there! you can try heating up to resin to about 30-35°C if you want it to be a bit more like a fluid. Its a common problem for normal msla resin printers in lower tempratures and controlling the temprature of the resin could make this setup a bit more consistent. For the bridging problem you could enable Z-Hop. Just saying im just a noob in fdm and sla but had the same problems in my fdm printer with bridging and the temprature problem with my resin printer.

[@properprinting]

Great suggestion, thanks! I'm wondering if I need to cool it down at the nozzle to make it work. Would be funny though since this would be the exact opposite of regular FDM printing.

[@Lamia768]

@@properprinting oh and i forgot the mention that curing resin is exothermic and a lot of heat is created. so if you ever run into the problem that your just applied resin is flowing of the sides its probably that the cured resin is too hot and needs to cool down for a moment. gl with your project

[@maxwellfire]

Sweet project! When I was at Formlabs as an intern, I worked on a hackathon project that was extremely similar to this. We also used luer locks as the nozzle, but used a leadscrew driven syringe as the resin pusher. We also ran into the same problem where the laser would cure the resin at the tip and block it, but ran out of time before we could come up with a solution like you have. I can share a photo gallery of the build if you're interested.

[@motosandphotos]

So awesome to see your process for engineering this crazy idea :)

[@resynertechnologies3dresyn172]

Congratulations Jon. You are the Master of the Universe!

[@properprinting]

Thanks for your support on this project!

[@NicksStuff]

If the aim is really continuous fiber printing, you shouldn't care about bridging. Firstly, you won't have very much bridging to do, is defeats the purpose of continuous fiber in most cases. Secondly, bridging with a fiber holding the paste should be way easier.

[@davidcoulombe2000]

You're an ace! Good Job! Keep discovery like that happening!

[@Vypar1]

This is awesome. Look forward to more FDM Resin printing videos. Thank you

[@justbeeeb2061]

The part with the peristaltic pump is really calming and I like it.

[@emanuelcalderon]

This maybe the future of 3d printing. If perfected it can go fast and look great.

[@rhyboy1]

i just got here, but man your build segments are super nice.. i could watch hours of that kind of thing! very nice video production!

[@thepctech]

You are so close to getting this. Keep going, you are really on to something!! Don't give up!

[@thepctech]

I think a brighter uv light to 'cure' the resin faster. Your tip can't be at all transparent, though. Is must be able to clear the tip then cure a split second later. Maybe press a needle into your resin printed tip. That way the metal would shield the uv light

[@ldumaze]

Wahou! I'm following your channel from early days, and I have to say that i really love the way you come up with new ideas, how you present them in an entertaining way, share your doubts, attempts, success play dumb with your mate and keep moving forward... truly inspiring ! 👍

[@Vinz3ntR]

I'm amazed by your video's and can completely relate to 19:46 (Dutch swearing Tyfus! Which means typhus, we just love swearing with diseases in the Netherlands!). Keep it up, I think you will crack it!

[@Mau_DelS]

That's amazing! no other word can explain this better, meanwhile i was watching appeared in my mind a PC cooling pump, those may are the correct size to be interchanged with the stepper motor instead of the normal one that power them. For the tubes connections i think you can also use those fittings used for compressed air (i understand testing but i think a cable tie doesnt clamp well over tube and brass) also rigid tubes may help with the flow as the one you have on can expand with pressure.

[@dn275]

Fantastic video and great work! I love joining you on this journey and seeing the way you approach the problem. I'm impressed that you self corrected and didn't dedicate too much time on the lens idea, it's a pitfall that many people encounter! If you feel like giving up, consider spending less dedicated time on the project and keeping a notebook ready for capturing spontaneous moments of inspiration. Don't burn yourself out! Can't wait to see where you take this.

[@victorwinkler2727]

This entiere Journey is so so cool. I am looking forward to every single Video you are releasing, but this is especially cool. Please keep it up mate, what you are creating is truly inspiring. All the best to you.

[@WaffleStaffel]

This is amazing. I remember your last video on this 9 months ago. I can only think of one suggestion, that's to use the flexible tubing for the peristaltic pump, but immediately transition to rigid tubing like PEX after, and (possibly before). That way there's no elasticity in the plumbing, and the pressure will be constant. That should help with laying a consistent bead with a viscous gel.

[@kadmow]

Not having done this, but having used FDM and SLA over the last decade - have had lots of "ideas" re. direct printing of light cured resins. - Also using fumed silicate as a high strength epoxy filler is my go-to.. Thanks for going to this trouble - using a syringe pusher (or in production settings a screw feeder) to pultrude gel is an option - even if a metering peristaltic pump is included closer to the nozzle. (pressure meats suction every day, lol.) Works in progress no doubt.

[@mavamaarten]

Man that is so awesome! Where many 3D printing channels have gone from cool tests and experiments to boring projects and sponsored printer reviews, you keep pushing innovative ideas like these. Keep it up man!

[@JohnnyYenn]

Found your channel recently and am blown away by all the awesome work you're doing. It won't be long before you have 1,000,000 subs for sure!

[@monstroPT]

Don't give up, man! You're one of the few youtubers that makes good quality videos and awesome projects. None of the boring and cloned videos about upgrading an old ender 3, or 50 different reviews about another chinese budget printer!

[@kaylor87]

First time here. Never seen your videos before... First impressions -- absolutely amazing. Your excitement and the way your face lights up when you have ideas is so great. I almost cried when you said you were giving up, and I don't even know you 😂 20 minutes of video, and I could tell how much perseverance and determination you have. I'm sure it gets very frustrating, but don't give up! You've already come so far.

[@maklog867]

I have built my 3D printing concrete/mortar 3D printer from Ender 3 and custom made printhead. It was fun project. It took one week of working after my ordinary work. Do not give up.

[@deaultusername]

You need some form of viscometer so you can get consistent results from batch to batch and to allow you to tune your resin mix to what you are doing. Free standing resin prints will likely need a more viscous form than resin with fiber running through it where capillary action will play a part.

[@andreasp.7246]

great video and i have a small suggestion. why don't you take a very lage syringe instead of the cup? just add a actuator on it and you can precisely control flow and pressure to your pump

[@RyanKashikar]

I had the idea of implementing this sort of system into an FDM printer. Great work on this project, and thanks for your contributions to the 3D printing community! I hope you can change FDM printing with this approach.

[@TableTopBiker]

The fact that you are still working on this and making progress against all the set backs is honestly the most impressive thing in hobby 3d printing I have seen. We believe in you!

[@monkeyfingerslocksport6429]

with out a doubt one of the best videos i have seen on youtube i was on the edge of me seat for 20 mins thank you..

[@ZeddZeeee]

like you said, since the liquid is so think maybe the vat itself needs to be pressurized, like if u filled a syringe with the resin and used an acutator to slowly push the syringe to extrude the resin rather than using a pump to draw the resin might allow for a more continues deposition? anyways best of luck you have already gotten this far im sure the solution is closer than u think!

[@markray3263]

Thanks for your perseverance. Most would have given up very early in your venture, it is extremely admirable that you didn't let frustration stop you. Keep up the good work!

[@dans-designs]

Brilliant work, love the way you make your videos too! Please dont give up, we are called to do these things for a reason!

[@socks5proxy]

The pump assembly segment was the most satisfied I've been in months. Thank you.

[@smoothjamie4046]

What an amazing video. Please dont give up. Watching the struggle/failure and then finally success is really inspiring.

[@TurboSunShine]

Very nice stuff! :D Looking forward to more content! :)

[@properprinting]

Thank you!

[@robertotomasini2072]

Regarding the tubing: use a stiff tube for the connection tube and the current one for the pump. This way you can reduce tubing compliance and increase precision. I suggest urethral catheters or PICC (more expensive, but comes with luer lock and no lubricant). Pro tip: use constant inner diameter for tubing, as it reduces shear forces on the fluid (less drag). If you can, use PVC tubing and cyclohexanone for gluing. For flushing, use IPA to clean tubing. My work is on extracorporeal bloodlines, and the tips above are from R&D experience on the topic.

[@siboneyyy]

13:55 always nice to see someone succeeding at his project 🙂

[@maxbiagi3091]

FINALY!!!! 3 MONTHS WAITING 😀😀😀

[@DaStuntChannel]

One quick way I found that helps to understand issues or explain complex problems is taking it to the absolute extreme, like you did for the infinitely powerful pump. It always clears things up for everyone aswell.

[@justbeeeb2061]

Really good video! Thank you!

[@voltzFPV]

Hell yea! I checked the channel for new content just yesterday!

[@3DMusketeers]

Jon, this is astounding! Amazing work! Keep it up. I know it can get tough and you want to quit but man we are rooting for you here. This is insane.

[@properprinting]

Thanks Grant!

[@ericblenner-hassett3945]

Since you want to print with fiber, you need the fiber to be cut to length. If you do feed the fibers into the gel, that could work well for bridging as the fiber will give it horizontal strength going back to how to cut the fiber when you need to move the nozzle to a new location without printing between points in the print.

[@kareemelabkary7611]

Thanks for not editing out all the trial and errors, it's really inspiring !!!

[@DeepRafterGaming]

The silicon tube introduces a lot of springiness to your extrousion rate. You really only need the silicone tube the short space within the pump. That should take care of alot of the variance. Also a semi transparent tube will leak some of the stray uv light into your resin and change some of the viscosity over time, even before the gel reaches the nozzle. But anyway, love the project and the longterm idea behind it.

[@pooyannayyeri9594]

Wish you report everything you did as a research paper too! your work is inspiring for other researchers and can be used as a credible reference...

[@constantinosschinas4503]

Should you use a following milling head to flatten the print or what. How would these nozzle collisions on hardened bubbles be addressed? Maybe reduce UV strength.

[@leloctai]

Can you test how far you can bridge by solidifying the resin mid air?

[@MrRclemens]

Vet zeg! Volg je al een paar jaar. Geweldig om te zien hoe je een idee blijft vasthouden en doorontwikkelen. Ideeën die uiteindelijk bij iedereen thuis kunnen belanden. Echt heel tof

[@glad2]

Really nice video. As for creating a leak tight thread seal, I would just use PTFE tape on the threads. That will almost certainly create a leak tight seal. This may allow you to more easily try other nozzles in the future.

[@ramenl0rd103]

man you are pushing the endgame, i am busy with other things than 3d printing but when i check a video of yours once in a while i am like... this dude is reinventing the industry, thanks a lot for your work and research!

[@BikerForLife01]

You are The 3D printing evil genius and we are not worthy. Thank you for living my other life for me and keep up the awesome work. Thanks man 👍

[@victor-antonioali378]

Thank you very much for not giving up! What an important lesson in tenacity.

[@maklog867]

You can shorten the distance between gel cup and printhead, cup with gel could be on the top of printhead and gravity and pump will do the job. Also you could use mirror on the bottom of your print area. It could improve curring. Or mirrors can be around the lasers. For example your printer should be in the box and box should have some kind of mirrors. It should improve curring and resin hardening.

[@jsal92]

This is awesome! I'm thinking you could take a page out of resin printing and place the model at a non vertical angle on the bed and print supports for it. I also suspect that the problem would go away once there is a fiber, the resin will stick to it over the gaps. Also that nozzle is pure genius!

[@belalal1902]

WOW! this keeps getting better! keep up the great work!

[@TheKnightArgent]

Wow. Just wow. Congratulations! What perseverance!

[@sock501]

Can you combine the fumed silica and the glass bubbles? Add enough of the fumed silica to keep the resin thick so that the bubbles won’t separate out, and add enough bubbles so that the gap bridging can work.

[@VincentGroenewold]

Looks awesome! This is research indeed, I really learned to love frustration during my career in science. That really helps doing software development now. :) Awesome result and together with the Proper Extruder, you're really creating some unique setups for people to try!

[@properprinting]

Thanks Vincent!

[@Furly700]

Man that montage of the peristaltic pump was the nicest montage I've seen in a while, also just love your content and excitement. I'm loving this project.

[@imraliinventions]

I think you are very different than other 3D printing guys out there. you are an inventor and innovator. I have recently discovered you and am happy. this FDM resin 3D printing especially with capablity to mix different type of resins throughout printing will be a big game changer. please continue working on this. i realy appreciate you sharing these great ideas on here. some of your ideas are patentable which can lead to you having your own revolutionary 3D printer range in the future. you are a problem solver this is the most valuable skill. I am an UK based medical device inventor with granted patents to my name so I kind of know what I can see coming :-) well done

[@imraliinventions]

did you try increasing layer height and reduce flow, and reduce the light intensity so the nozzle can go over the hardened resin bridges. i think all you need is a balance of flow rate and light intensity. gel is consistent enough to hold itself up during curing.

[@imraliinventions]

or you need a special resin formula that hardens slowly and gradually enough that the bridges will not be too hard by the time nozzle hits them. i just thought of fluorescent pigments that are used for resin casting. this pigment restores the light energy and gradually releases it in dark. I think if you add some into your resin mixture then the UV light will be absorbed by these pigments and then released gradually reducing the immediate hardening effect of the light to your resin. good luck.

[@airmakeup]

never Never give up! World need more people like you

[@DominikKomzik]

My suggestion is to get rid of the tube from beaker to pump and make pressurized resin container to prevent tube in pump from collapsing and not pumping, also i will add some pressure gauge near nozzle for easier trobleshooting/tuning,

[@dewanpretorius]

Maybe use a syringe (or or even if its the same holder) mounted to the top of the nozzle and try to use non- flexible tubing (i.e. metal). Lastly it may help to increase the overall diameter of all the tubing up until the nozzle exit to allow for the use of thicker resin, this will may work better for overhangs. Best of luck!

[@martylawson1638]

Fyi, i think you have a low enough shear to print with "long" chopped fiber. So that could be a half-step to continuous fiber.