Protect your Fence | Prevent Post Rot

Big thank you to Fence Armor for sponsoring this video! Stop wood rot before it begins with Postsaver Pro-Sleeves! Heat-shrinkable thermoplastic, bituminous lined sleeves provide life-long, in-ground post protection. I don’t set a post these days without a Postsaver on it. Best part - they’re guaranteed for 20 years. Click this link and enter APRIL12 at checkout to get 12% off your purchase: fencearmor.com/
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Welcome to the official April Wilkerson KZbin channel. I’m April and I’m the creator of Wilker Do’s. I'm not professional or have any training, so I just pick the project I want to tackle and figure it out step by step. On this channel you will find a variety of content like DIY home improvement, How-To’s, construction and more.

[@AprilWilkerson]

Stop wood rot before it begins with Postsaver Pro-Sleeves! Heat-shrinkable thermoplastic, bituminous lined sleeves provide life-long, in-ground post protection. I don’t set a post these days without a Postsaver on it. Best part - they’re guaranteed for 20 years. Click this link and enter APRIL12 at checkout to get 12% off your purchase: fencearmor.com/

[@marklamberson4131]

With today’s knowledge putting a post in the ground is ignorant.

[@RCdiy]

We won’t know for ten to twenty years if it works 😂

[@Fencearmor]

@@RCdiy Postsaver has run very thorough testing, so it is guaranteed to work :)

[@fdiver60]

Thank you ❗️👏💜

[@billdar5325]

You are doing it wrong!!

[@Ifdyhjijfthoi]

we used to use tar or axle grease it worked it's still standing 20 years later

[@wdb1932]

Actually, the post should be mounted on piers and mounted with ties so that wood never comes in direct contact with ground or concrete.

[@darnelljones8502]

Never understood why so many bury wood directly into the ground…

[@aptpupil]

@@darnelljones8502 because it's like 10x stronger and easier

[@darnelljones8502]

@@aptpupil but wont last very long…

[@nickisneat3154]

It’s a very weak method for fences when taking a lateral force (like wind)

[@looselipssinkships6543]

@@darnelljones8502 literally have posts in the ground from s building on my property thats easily 80+ years old. Even further my eater table is maybe 1-2 feet below grade any time of the year.

[@gergc4871]

Or do all of the above and use a stainless steel footer that also slopes.

[@Louthemailman]

exactly 👍

[@kevinnobody3052]

Looks like a giant piece of shrink tubing. That's a good idea. How come I can't think of anything like that?🤣🤣🤣

[@chrisgraham2904]

You can use a good quality acrylic caulking to butter the post from the concrete footing to about 8 inches above grade. A $3 tube of caulk will do about 4 posts. Will extend the life of the post about 10 to 15 years longer than the post without it.

[@NomenNescio99]

A fence sleeve is another great way to stop rot.

[@DymondzTrucking1962]

Dipping them in tar works real good too.

[@Stabby__]

👍😎

[@williamlawrence7352]

Exactly. 🎯 I was going to comment that. But, since you already did, no need for me to. 👍

[@jabelltulsa]

I read that as prevent pot roast

[@hardlyb]

But I like pot roast!

[@AprilWilkerson]

I like pot roast too!

[@illiniwood]

When the cement dries it leaves a gap between it and the post for water to go in and rot it out.

[@hardlyb]

There seems to be a layer of tar inside. That dries out really slowly, especially with plastic around it.

[@Fencearmor]

@@hardlyb You are correct. It takes a minute to install and the bituminous layer creates a water and air tight seal. It dries quickly. The Postsaver Pro-Sleeve ensures that post rot can't occur.

[@jamalbr3251]

A minor gap isn't a big deal, the main problem is water and dirt pooling around the base of the post. Shady fence contractors put about 6" of dirt around an unprotected post to basically guarantee the fence will rot and get replaced in

[@littleshepherdfarm2128]

We used to use Hefty extra thick and heavy garbage bags on the bottoms of our posts when building barns. You put the bag over one end and just staple it right to the post before putting it in the hole. We did it this way because back in the day the pressure treatment they used on the wood combined with cement or mortar mix caused a chemical reaction that made the posts rot even faster than normal. We eliminated that problem altogether just like April did here but I think hers is more durable and will last longer due the thickness of her wrap.

[@ArmandoDy]

You can also use burnt motor oil, after you change your vehicles oil. Just paint it on the posts. ✌😎👍

[@OffroadCpl]

Or torch it like Japanese does

[@willycastellanos4195]

👍

[@johnboylong40]

The railroads are proof that works

[@ML-ks2lj]

​@@johnboylong40 cresol I think rail road ties are soaked in. Key word being soaked. I am doing a job in Detroit where there is over 100 year old rail road ties buried and we hit hem every so often with the auger and boy they come up looking fresh. And stinky.

[@kenfrank3782]

What about coating the post bottom with tar up to 2” above ground than crown the concrete

[@ensen89]

I just treat my wooden posts with a high quality outdoor glaze even if they are already pressure treated and set them in galvanized post brackets. Or I just use concrete posts to start with.

[@WhateverItsanOpinion]

I always paint the post with Henry's roofing Tar.. From the bottom To Just 1" above the cement line

[@masterofchaos7428]

Used oil works to.

[@womanator140]

I use juniper for my fencing. So far 12 years in the ground.

[@AprilWilkerson]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing and for watching.

[@womanator140]

Oregon acknowledges juniper as a pressure treated wood

[@nickpena8550]

April! I was coming from New beaunfels schlitterbahn and I passed by canyon lake, and happened to run by your shop and I braked immediately! Lol I didn't know you were from Texas, and I'm from RGV!

[@AprilWilkerson]

Yep! Born and Raised in Corpus Christi in fact. :) Thanks for the support and for watching.

[@WillysPerformanceCycleCtr]

Thanks for sharing this great idea! The heat shrinkable sleeves work really well.

[@Fencearmor]

Thank you, we appreciate your support!

[@RakingNcash]

What happens when wood starts to split going through the middle of this wrap? Wouldn’t water and bugs enter through the split and deterioration would begin from inside out at this point?

[@PowerWash2022]

A 2 liter works just fine cut both ends then slip over the post then torch it to form.

[@jerrywhidby.]

I might try that

[@robreesor5011]

You can also keep microbes away by bruning the end of the post that you plan to put in the ground...the charcole on the post keeps microbes away from the wood...check out TA Outdoors channel and watch his Viking house build. He explains it while building a mini viking longhouse.

[@jerrywhidby.]

I char the amount that will be above ground, and then brush on burnt engine oil.

[@mikes02ls1]

I just applied roofing tar on my post before pouring concrete. 6 years later still holding strong.

[@AprilWilkerson]

Awesome!

[@musicbymark]

Hi april, have you tried the bulk roll, where you cut off what you need? Sounds like it used staples, which concerns me cuz of the holes you'll be causing, but maybe it's inconsequential over the large span of material to just have a couple staple holes here and there?

[@AP-ph7hf]

This is cool, but I wonder what happens when you use a string trimmer week after week to trim grass around the post.

[@langer24106]

I started sloping the concrete away from the ground level of the post, just like you described.

[@scotthill5717]

There is also the ancient method of charing/burning bottom of post. The charred end is anti microbial, fungus, etc. Most civilisations have done this at sometime. I think the Japanese call it Shou Shugi Ban I’m not sure of spelling.

[@jerrywhidby.]

I char the section that is above ground, and brush burnt engine oil all over the post. The oil prevents moisture, and the char keeps the termites from eating the post. Charring below ground isn't good as it will eventually leave a gap between the wood and concrete.

[@craigbeas6111]

Think I will try the burn method next japanese style

[@richardnott9587]

We put metal or even a shingle in between the concrete and post. The post will always be wet next to concrete even if it slopes because in ks the concrete will rot the wood.

[@suskagusip1036]

Omg you're amazing. I was thinking of a plastic and here you are.

[@AprilWilkerson]

Awesome! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.

[@robertlyle6277]

Sloping the concrete won’t help - the wood eventually shrinks, creating a small gap, allowing water to pool in the gap. Dig the hole below frost line, pour at least 8” of concrete, after concrete sets set post and pour pea gravel around it. The “postsaver” is useless.

[@jamalbr3251]

Sloping the concrete helps the water run off the post, and prevents water and dirt from pooling around the post. Wood in direct contact with dirt and moisture will eventually rot. Wood naturally expands and contracts, a small gap isn't a big deal. Use flex seal, or some kind of long lasting sealer at the post base. Slope the concrete away from the post.

[@JackRockBLC]

This is just about the perfect time for me to find out about this. I have to replace a portion of my fence this summer.

[@Fencearmor]

Very happy you found Postsaver at the right time! Let us know if you have any questions.

[@3_too_won]

Didn,t seal the end grain so what stops it from rotting.

[@Fencearmor]

@@3_too_won Great question Mick. Once the Postsaver sleeves are installed, they create a true air and watertight seal to the post surface, preventing moisture from entering the top of the post. The top 6-8” below ground level is where the post rots, that is because below that the ground isn’t warm enough and fungi can’t thrive. So it is not necessary there. Hope that answers the question :)

[@3_too_won]

@@Fencearmor Sounds like bullshit to me and you didn,t answer my question .The rot came right out of your mouth .

[@vigilantobserver8389]

Doh! Now I learn this. I hoped using a pressure treated post, gravel, and quickcrete would suffice.

[@kennyrupp7379]

Years ago my grandfather used gear oil to help preserve the wood

[@Jones572]

Looking good April🤙🏾💯❤️

[@mbcmaui]

Never put a post in the ground it's a building code Use a Simpson post Base set into the concrete or use concrete post Base Pier block to keep the wood 8 inches above the ground with a metal termite shield on the base

[@8018358075]

I laugh at termite shield because termites can go around anything. The best way is to treat wood with termite killer so they die as they eat.

[@mbcmaui]

@@8018358075 termite pans are made of galvanized steel so termites can't climb around their dropped edge LOL

[@mbcmaui]

@@8018358075 I have been framing homes in Hawaii for over 35 years little boy we used arsenic treated wood gallons painted all the cut ends until carpenters started getting cancer about 20 years ago now everything is borate pressure treated in Hawaii

[@marklamberson4131]

Are you going to concrete these in? If so, why not just do it right with a pier and bracket? 10-15 years your way. Lifetime with the pier.

[@jarodmorris611]

Most people don't care since they won't likely own their home for more than 5 - 8 years.

[@aptpupil]

Like a Simpson post base?

[@tylerk.7947]

For a fence?! you don’t see any fences built like that because it has very little resistance to lateral forces. Makes sense for posts that have a vertical load, but not lateral like a fence.

[@jimk5307]

The wind load on a fence is huge, less on a deck as noted. Two completely different engineering problems to solve.

[@TotesMAGoats69]

I coated mine in roofing tar. Little messy though

[@Kraze777]

The last fence I built I coated the bottom of the posts about 6” above ground level with flex seal. We’ll see.

[@PapaDan]

Pouring concrete around a wooden post will always make it rot. You should instead Set the post on 4-6” of gravel and backfill with dry concrete mix.

[@ek8137]

Shou Sugi Ban - never tried this burning technique to preserve but seems to work according to the internet!

[@albertogarza6071]

Would flame treating the bottom of the post so as to create a Carbon burn section where insects won't munch on? This crew building a Log Cabin did. Looks/ sounds correct.

[@michaelbaumgardner9493]

I delivered Propane to new Braunfels, Canyon Lake and Buchanan Dam last yr after the ice crippled ya'll for a bit. Loaded outta Baytown, Eastside of Houston. Be safe everybody

[@Darrengriffiths3197]

How do they get post for peers and jetties to last so long ?

[@jamalbr3251]

The type of wood, there's no oxygen underwater, any sealants, and fresh vs salt water all make a difference.

[@ColeSpolaric]

Costs too much...

[@chrisnash2154]

Are those posts pressure treated? The extra precautions shouldn’t be necessary if so.

[@MarcusWolschon]

so.. XXL shrink-wrap? Doesn't it peel off after 20 years of UV light and doesn't cover the endgrain at all?

[@donaldasayers]

Thanks for that I had not heard of the product before and I am just about to set some posts. Postsaver seems to be a UK company and you can buy direct from them in the UK.

[@AprilWilkerson]

Awesome! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.

[@philfredericks5198]

Dip them in roofing tar

[@Dansk55]

I used oil and diesel for my yard shed foundation

[@fredstevenson1390]

Great idea

[@craig-michaelkierce1366]

Watch some videos of Kyle at R&R construction. Best methods (just my opinion) that I have seen of setting posts. Great instructive videos. Cheers...

[@bjrn-oskarrnning2740]

Why not simply char the posts? Looks a lot better than any commercial products, it's free and works great!

[@jimknight2041]

So it's like a heat shrink tube for wood instead of wires. Like cool 😎

[@_Skim_Beeble]

Use metal stirrups that way the wood stays above the ground.

[@John-yo9jz]

So a big roll of mastic tape with a heat gun and a heavy roller?

[@learjet45]

Pour footer pad, install galvanized post 'shoe' before concrete sets. NEVER put a post, even treated, in the ground!

[@davekirkpatrick5724]

You don’t work for Postsaver, by any chance, do you?

[@christianwiese9887]

metal clamps to elevate the wood above the ground?

[@budgetaudiophilelife-long5461]

🤗😎 APRIL YOU MAY… HAVE A GREAT IDEA…but this was not available in my day 🤷‍♂️😍😍😍

[@Austin-sv6io]

Ya cause back in your day there was proven methods, not gimmicks.

[@johnj2496]

How long will plastic last with uv I'll bet good ole tar will work better That's why they use it on power poles

[@jeffmcvay]

I replaced the rotted 4x4 fence posts with 12g galvanized Z-Post. No rot, no rust, no insect, and no exposed post.

[@jessehellakoo]

Do you use all those tips in combination?

[@tylerk.7947]

I prefer to set my fence posts in compacted 3/4” washed gravel. For an 8’ post I dig at least 2’ deep and wider than a regular concrete footer. It’s an easier install and allows for better drainage and it locks almost as strong as concrete when compacted.

[@Mrimperfections777]

Isn't creosote natural and disnt take the energy to make the post saver.??

[@ryzz3340]

I just use some Henry's roofing seal . It's easy to get ahold of it and easy to apply

[@michaelsimmonds3020]

Scorching works too

[@bmkproducts]

Our foam products have been protecting wood posts from rot for 35+ years

[@ih8people679]

The green post we have been here for 35 years, it's a deck.. don't know if there is a difference?

[@COYO-T]

I liquid rubber any wood either below the ground and a few inch above ground level, even treated wood.

[@freebehindbars8654]

Looks like it would hold in moisture.

[@dougwhitney4258]

Plastidip or flex seal spray.

[@naturalbeauty51508]

You rock

[@chadwedul1787]

Saran wrap.

[@tylertylertyler3521]

Tar works as well

[@hockeyman1]

im pretty sire you can,ise any sort of plastic since its never decompose

[@deeznutsz8857]

She throwing those around like it's balsa wood

[@johnfuller6870]

I think just torching the outside of the wood will work well too

[@NuKe0clan0cod0videos]

Soak it in Diesel the bugs and microbes can't eat it after that. It makes the wood more hydrophobic and it works so well the uv will damage the wood before rott will

[@Redshift313]

Cool

[@richardweinberger2756]

I would hire her.

[@OffroadCpl]

Isn't funny how a tree roots can be buried for a 100 yrs but we worry about a post lasting 20yrs.

[@mikecurtis2585]

Nice great ideal!

[@markpeterson9808]

never understood the gravel at the bottom thing. you're making a void for more water to seep into, not the other way around. water will take the easiest route, aka, all those voids in the rocks.

[@mikethompson7406]

What about if the posts are already in the ground? I have this problem on two 1 year old posts on a new construction home holding up the covering of my covered patio.

[@shyguy2481]

Take notes from electric poles. They do none of that.

[@madarain]

Telephone poles are saturated with creosote (and DDT in the old days)... a far more aggressive preservative method than this.

[@russellfelsinger678]

A little skeptical, would moisture now just get behind the barriers, and be trapped in

[@justsomeguy4033]

What about burning it?

[@Robinhood179]

I would use metal posts if they werent so flimsy. Every video I see shows the fences easily moving around with your hands and being able to be bent one way or the other just by pushing them. I want something solid so I may have to preserve the wood somehow and bury and concrete. Using 3” solid metal pipes would be great if I could find them or not pay a fortune for them as well.

[@kmhtaylor]

Skip the plastic, it's bad for the environment. Instead, take that torch you were using, char the portion that gets sunken, along with 6 inches over grade, dump a little gravel, post in hole, concrete, level and done. The technique is called 'Yakisugi'.

[@jeremysmeimnotlying2051]

Tar works

[@pauliebots]

Don't you hate those CCA splinters?

[@Max-po5sx]

Soak them in used motor oil. Done!

[@michaelsvensson6805]

We would never let the have contact with the soil. We cast galvanized metal shoes for the post in concrete.

[@michaellalanae7228]

Put them in a metal sleeve above ground never allowing them to touch ground in the first place .

[@awoods3554]

Or use concrete posts 🙄

[@Big74Mike2012]

That was the best product you've ever tried? It has nothing to do with the company offering you money to say that it's the best product you've used? If one of the other sellers of a product you used in this video had come to you first and offered you money to say theirs was the best, would that one now be the best you've ever tried?? Yeah, that's what I thought....

[@AprilWilkerson]

You are incorrect. I only work with companies who's products I truly believe in and I tell my Viewers my thoughts. I've used this product several times and love it. Also, they do not tell me what to say. If my Channel no longer suits you, no hard feelings. There are plenty of others out there. Thanks for watching.

[@michaelcampin1464]

Just use cresote. Stops everything or as railways use oil.

[@tsinnijinnie85]

what's rotting is in the kitchen is what you need to worry about

[@lloydfancett3039]

Or you could do the same thing for way less money than shrink-wrap for your wood with some basic thicker tar.