Finishing my Fallout 4 Laser Pistol! - Assembly and Awesome Painting Techniques

[@punishedprops]

We sure learned a lot from this project--thank you for all of the great feedback! Check out some build pictures, along with all the tools and materials used on our website: punishedprops.com/2019/03/04/laser-pistol-paint/

[@nolongerinuses7123]

Bill You are a prop making genius😎

[@imaada9505]

Bill you should put a actual laser into the laser gun so it fires a actual beam when the switch is pulled

[@nolongerinuses7123]

@@imaada9505 that would be awesome also put a working trigger on it as well so the laser could light up

[@shipwrek8465]

Something for those who perhaps have more time and/or patience, you could have colour layered the green/yellow parts. By painting the yellow straight on then putting what's called a candy coat of the green you can sneak up with layers of paint to a really deep colour that matches. Instead of mixing the colours. This is very effective with clear base colours like yellow, reds and certain greens. Since they are transparent base they build up to make a final colour. Also you can do more of your deep colours to get a variety of tones.

[@Soggstermainia]

As a copier and printer technician I can advise on the toner not bonding well to the paper, it's because the paper is thick and it needs more heat to bind the toner to it. If you want a better cleaner print set it to a heavyweight paper setting to get more heat into it! Or leave it on plain paper to get the rustic look 👌

[@EvilTedSmith]

Love the hair spray trick. Doing that next time I paint.

[@bobkaelblein4783]

In the future if you want to try water slide decals: - Once they come off the print you need to seal them. The standard is to use Krylon crystal clear 1303 Acrylic Coating. This will prevent the printer medium from lifting off the transfer paper. - When you go to apply the decals you will need 2 solutions. MicroSet and MicroSol. The MicroSet is optional. - While your decal is soaking in water, apply MicroSet to the surface you are preparing to apply the decal to. MicroSet is essentially a bottle of the adhesive that is already on the water slide transfer. This will ensure good adhesion with the surface. Again, this step is optional. - Slide your decal onto the wet surface. - Use a lint free cloth to wick the residual water, and MicroSet away. - coat the entire decal in MicroSol. MicroSol is a solvent that will really soften the decal material to the point of completely dissolving it. However, it will leave the Krylon crystal clear and printer toner behind. - You can then apply more coats of MicroSol onto the decal, rolling it on with a q-tip soaked in MicroSol to really set it to the surface. - Seal the transfer once it is dry with a clear coat of your choice. Edit: It also helps if you apply the decals to a gloss surface. It helps them stick down like a window cling. You can use the same Krylon crystal clear for that. I hope that helps!

[@punishedprops]

Great tips, thanks for sharing! =)

[@EricCullum]

I can attest to this method. I built a 36" wingspan Albatros D V with Lozenge pattern upper wing surfaces. I had to use a bottle of each product but the printing stayed for the greater part while conforming to the compound curves of the airfoil and fabric.

[@stardew1986]

"No mistakes just happy little accidents." Bob Ross

[@GROENAASMusic]

"So long, bug!" *tap* I expected some effect, but I got that. Funny. xD

[@maxbursey6276]

Seth rogan

[@user-ni3ob3hn6h]

Seth rogan

[@artisticmistake]

Seth rogan

[@lilgspirit]

Seth rogan

[@coregeek]

Looks great man! When I’ve used the hairspray technique I’ve had better results by decanting the hairspray and applying with an airbrush. It goes on much smoother with less blobs.

[@punishedprops]

Fantastic tip, thanks for sharing good buddy! =D

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

Hey Coregeek, how do you go about "decanting" the hairspray?? I just pictured myself running the can through a band saw and thought to myself, "I've got a bad feeling about this." LOL!!!! So I'm super curious how you do it?

[@coregeek]

The Smugglers Room Best way to decant aerosol cans is spray it through a normal drinking straw into your new container. Works like a charm.

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

Coregeek Creations sweet. I would have thought it would dry out like spray paint or something. Thanks for the great tip, I’ll have to try this!

[@coregeek]

The Smugglers Room You def. have to work quick and don’t let it sit too long in your airbrush.

[@jamesplested3917]

Gave me chills every time you took off the masking tape

[@punishedprops]

You and me both. So much satisfaction.

[@ripperjack]

When painting those yellow details, if you spray a light coat of white and then the yellow on top of that it'll really make the yellow show with fewer coats of paint.

[@punishedprops]

Great idea! Thanks for sharing. =)

[@TheAwesonymous]

Thats what i do with rc car body shell painting, makes the lighter colours 'pop'

[@CannonGround]

For waterslide decals, look into Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. They're products that help dissolve the clear carrier film, which can help eliminate air bubbles and silvering (when the decal film is visible). Just a tip from the model aircraft world!

[@SpartanfromHL]

It’s really awesome that you show your mistakes along with the achievements and not edit them out. Not only does it give viewers tips for what to avoid or watch out for, but provides an educational/instructional layer to the build videos. Great work as usual!

[@punishedprops]

Problem solving is part of the process!

[@aliciacarr9014]

For the reflectivity of the waterslide transfers, the mini painting community has the answer, put a gloss coat down first, apply the transfer, cover with another gloss coat then finish with whatever coat you want the finished piece to be, gloss, satin or matte.

[@punishedprops]

That's a really great tip, thanks for sharing. =D

[@Steelmage99]

I second this advise, with the experience of 20+ years of model making.

[@Jackson-ub1uv]

That Radroach was so realistic that I want an entire video dedicated to making it.

[@punishedprops]

He lives behind our computer now

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

“None of that 1% shenanigans” HA!!! Amen!!! Love it guys, great kit!

[@DblDg1252]

Next time you use a water decal you should apply mark softer to it! It dissolves the edges so there are no hard lines, removes the gloss without the finish, and really sets the decal.

[@maggsstuckey487]

“Ammo cell” Also the build was amazing! I just feel the color was a bit off. A little under saturated

[@DylanHutto]

I was practically yelling "IT'S AN MF CELL" hahah

[@xas4723]

Fusion cell

[@anondimwit]

@@xas4723 you guys are all wrong it is a double AA battery

[@xas4723]

Rose Clips probably Duracell

[@Zulfburht]

A rather interesting build, I like how the paint “chipped off” on the same side. Also very creative cover ups for fixing the paint.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks! =)

[@swish9017]

Great video as always, and an amazing weathering job Bill! If you decant the hairspray into a cup first and run it through the airbrush, it gives you a lot more control over the spray and prevents the beading.

[@punishedprops]

That is an AMAZING idea. Thanks for sharing!

[@Darkbart22]

That's it, I'm done. That's enough... As soon as I get my new flat, i'll get into airbrushing and start building props!

[@TheDisturbed0Angel]

I think I have said it before, but I will say it again, mad respect for showing when you make mistakes or things don't quite work perfect and then how you adjusted to move forward. Far more valuable IMO than looking perfect.

[@punishedprops]

Happy to share the blemishes. We all goof up and that's OK! =D

[@barry99705]

We used to use broken up model rocket fuel for blast points on our transformers when I was a kid. Break up the fuel with a pair of vice grips, and put small chunks on the plastic, then hit it with a magnifying glass in the sun! Made awesome looking "battle damage" craters. Maybe .177 bb or pellet sized chunks was all we ever used. Bigger pieces got too hot... Ahh, the good old days of unsupervised youth!

[@punishedprops]

That. Is. AWESOME. I need to try this on a prop.

[@gostowl]

Another informative prop making video. Thanks for telling us about the water-slide decal paper.

[@chrisworsley8836]

Bill takes out a Rad-Roach... at the exact moment the effects budget runs out! LOL. Great job!

[@sonicfreak04]

you should make a radroach next fallout video

[@chrisworsley8836]

I was just thinking that. Maybe time to add some foam creature building to the show?

[@dustypringlescan9894]

I agree

[@NexusIncorporation]

Oh yeah but a remote controled one that actually walks XD

[@mrkiky]

@@NexusIncorporation Or make one of those glowing ones that sit on the wall. Could make a cool lamp.

[@NexusIncorporation]

@@mrkiky lol absolutely would be probably the best night light Ever

[@robolizard222]

The white decal paper is for the situation you had with the yellow markings. As you said printers can’t print white so you need to do provide it on the medium itself.

[@jasonpavlak3635]

A wet cotton swab can help move the decals off the backer and into place. You can also use it to push out air pockets without increasing the risk of tearing. When satisfied, use the dry side to wick away extra water. This made my life so much easier with small decals.

[@onyxnailsdesign8158]

HI there. Fab video. A little tip. I use those printed water decals every day. Spray it with a couple of thin layers of acrylic sealer as soon as it comes out of the printer. Let dry and use. That way the ink does not come off. and it is so much easier to slide off.

[@2chrono2]

In the future, if you're not satisfied with the final look of your decals, us model builders use a couple of products called MICRO-SET and MICRO-SOFT to help blend decals into the surface and make them look like they're painted onto the surface. It gets rid of that "shine" you noticed on the edge and in places where there was no pigment. Might wanna check it out!

[@punishedprops]

Oh cool! Thanks for the tip!

[@MrsInAbox]

At least now you have a handy dandy way of tinting and shading with your airbrush :)

[@AsterixiaGaming]

I really appreciate your including the processes in this video that didn't work out quite how you were expecting and how you dealt with the outcomes. It really is helpful to see the learning process, thank you for such great videos!

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome! We try to be as honest as possible with our builds so that everyone can learn. =D

[@CMDR_Scorpion]

I love the fact that the little mistakes turned out to be brilliant weathering!

[@punishedprops]

Not too shabby, eh? =)

[@kallemon]

When applying water transfers it helps A LOT if you apply it to a high gloss area, so spray the areas where the water transfers will go will some high gloss clear coat.

[@stephenbakasa2310]

It came out looking pretty awesome. Solid work, dude.

[@erenhall7361]

Had a rough day but a new punished props video instantly made it so much better! Thanks Bill and Brit for all the hard work, love seeing what you guys do and all your creativity.

[@punishedprops]

That's just wonderful. I hope your day improves. =)

[@honda6353]

You should use micro-sol/set for decals

[@punishedprops]

Great tip!

[@FrigginBoomToys]

Those decals were super interesting, never seen that method before. Also the vinyl on the shirt to take away the tackyness was genius.

[@punishedprops]

I've only dabbled in water slide decals. Apparently there's so much more you can do with them to make a prop look super legit! =)

[@UNSCPILOT]

that's the nice thing about fallout props, if the decal is a bit messy or the finish gets roughed up it looks more authentic

[@LegendofTheCosmic7]

Whys it sooooo beautiful, I love any pump looking laser blaster

[@dragnardrake8633]

For the hair spray weathering. I use a squirt bottle hair spray not the can stuff, and I just use it in an air brush and it works really well, not blotching like you had. Also it helps to put a clear coat between the bottom finish and the hair spray.

[@punishedprops]

Great tip! =)

[@andreripoll]

Good job Bill! A small tip when painting yellow over darker colors, as you did with that stenceling: if you apply a coat of white first and then apply the yellow the color will come out a lot brighter and less transparent!

[@punishedprops]

Great idea!

[@rud3y1]

Decal tip: 'Mr Hobby' make a 'Mr Mark softer neo' and 'Mr Mark setter neo' that modelers use to reduce the silvering effect(decal shine). Also white decal paper is very useful if for example you want something like a red warning decal with white lettering. EPIC paint job btw, love the scorch marks.

[@punishedprops]

Awesome tips, thanks for sharing!

[@thepoynt]

I didn't know I needed this prop in my life until now ;)

[@juanjosegonzalez8020]

Check about a spray product to sealing the decals after printing

[@titaniumworks3274]

I've been wanting to experiment with water slide decals, I'm so glad you chose to go this route as opposed to the stencils. Great video as always.

[@punishedprops]

Glad to showcase as many techniques as we can!

[@BeatAces]

Always glad to see the interesting ways you can use a mistake as a part of the prop’s story. Keep up the great work

[@punishedprops]

Yup! No mistakes, only happy accidents.

[@robertmorris2573]

Hi Bill. When making your decals. After printing them get yourself a can of testers decal bonder and Follow the instructions. It will keep the color from coming off.

[@weathermandan8360]

i just realized, in the intro they have lord shaxx and a vex goblin from destiny. cool.

[@kurogiza]

Walking away and letting it cure/dry/whatever is the hardest thing for me too. I can never just let it sit, and always end up cursing my impatience afterwards. Nice build!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks! =)

[@Milner62]

Clears are great when it comes to water slide decals. Still waiting for good weather so I can mix up some 2k clear to clear coat my old Fireball Robert`s race car I built last year partially. One thing you might want to look into for water slide decals is Microsol and Microset. It works great with decals for softening the decal to help it stick better, Microsol is what I use as it softens the decal even more to give a painted look around curves and irregular surfaces.

[@PressXProps]

Make my own water slide decals? Um... yes please!

[@punishedprops]

Pretty cool, right?!

[@elwindil8566]

totally going to do that for miniature wargaming. it's a great idea and I didn't even know it was a thing.

[@supahfrog]

I know others have said it, but I don't think you can say it enough. Thank you for posting the processing, INCLUDING the mistakes you made along the way. It's really nice to see how you handle those "oh shit" moments and recover from those pesky but ever present "happy accidents." Very nice work!

[@punishedprops]

Of course! Failure and mistakes are a critical part of the learning and making process. Knowing how to handle and work with those moments can make all the difference!

[@SICresinwrks]

this has become my new favorite channel!

[@w0mblemania]

Very nice work Bill (and Britt).

[@blueg6demon371]

A little behind, but another method for the hairspray chipping is to spray the hairspray over a layer of paint, sprinkle Kosher Salt over it, then air brush over that and when that dries gently scrub the salt off with water and a very soft tooth brush. I use it on all my Warhammer 40k tanks and buildings, works wonders.

[@ian3314]

Really awesome video guys! The oil weathering....so satisfying to watch.

[@punishedprops]

It's truly one of my very favorite parts of the process.

[@djcrazythomashulks]

When you were putting the details on the battery, I would recommend using decal fix which is made for model kits but would work for this situation.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the tip!

[@bogeybass2489]

Great Build !! Waterslide film is glossy. So application to a flat or semi gloss surface will always show the glossy film. The trick is to apply a gloss clear first. then the gloss film and gloss surface will match. then apply a flat or semi gloss clear over the decal to get whatever finish you want. Works very well with military type items which are usually always flat. and putting glossy slide decal on a flat finish will always show. hence gloss coat first then spray flat after the decals are applied to hide the film

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the great tips!

[@davidtrantow1698]

I always imagined most Fallout composite and plastics to be very much like Bakelite. Seems like it would fit right in.

[@punishedprops]

Yeah that sounds right.

[@RecklessModelling]

Doing the hairspray fluid from an airbrush gives a smoother application

[@HealterSkelter666]

I've had good experiences with warming up the vinyl stencils to soften the adhesive to not chip the paint beneath.

[@luissantiago5163]

You guys never fail to impress. Such top tier craftsmanship in every video. (Wish I could paint that good) Keep up the great work as per usual!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@mattlewandowski73]

there are a number of 3d printed lasers out there that look good, but I LOVE the Atom Cats jacket!!!

[@antonnyl573]

I've waited a long time to see you make something from fallout again😂

[@azathoz]

I discovered your channel thanks to Adam Savage's Tested and it was a instant subscription. I love your work and the nerdiness behind it. Great channel.

[@punishedprops]

Welome! Thank you so much for your support :)

[@azathoz]

@@punishedprops You are most welcome! Thanks to you for your lovely constructions and sharing your work 👍

[@MarkWarbington]

If you try water slide decals again, there is a product called Micro Sol that the Hotwheels and Matchbox restorers/customizers use that makes the decals conform to textures and the clear backing more or less disappear into whatever it has been applied to. On very small scales it looks amazing, but probably overkill full scale props. Just FYI.

[@punishedprops]

Fantastic!

[@JRexRegis]

Bill, just gonna say, with the pip-boy, the pistol and the jacket, you actually look like a character I'd expect to run across ingame.

[@kirkbrackmann6385]

Weathering/reveal music was awesome

[@punishedprops]

Yeah that was super fun to put together. =D

[@NorthViewModelShop]

From the scale amour builders. When you want to hide the water slide decal film try the following. First lay down a gloss coat of clear coat. Let that dry, lay down your water slide decals. Let them dry. Then cover with a dull coat. The glass will high the film and the dull coat will give you that flat look your after

[@punishedprops]

Wonderful tip, thanks! =D

[@0meat]

For the sticky vinyl stencil problem, you can use a heat gun for a few seconds to soften the adhesive. Just be careful not too long because, you know, hot and vinyl don't mix.

[@punishedprops]

Oh interesting. Thanks for the tip!

[@MattTester]

I remember looking at those waterslide decals in model catalogues years ago and always wonder how they worked. One day we may be able to print white, it's inevitable that another advancement in printing will come along eventually.

[@punishedprops]

There are definitely printers that can do white, but I don't think there are any in the consumer level price range. Seems like ore of an industrial grade option.

[@robferrera1968]

Golden are great paints! Awesome job Bill and Brit!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@IDMTB3D]

That weathering job was phenomenal! And you almost got thru a whole video with out sanding ;)

[@punishedprops]

HA! Yeah every prop needs at least a tiny bit of sanding. =)

[@HazielBlack]

bro pro tip, you can use regular vinil stencil without adhesive in flat surfaces, take some of your paint a normal kitchen yellow sponge piece. "new sponge I must add" alright next, take a bit of the paint, and then discharge the excess of it in a paper, then proceed to apply it doing tapping over the stencil, can hold it with masking or with your hand if you are careful, you will get the same results, minus the paint pulling and over masking of the model piece. hope this helps you in the future.

[@peaoat3608]

What works for me when matching colors that look kind of vague is start with just gray and add a hint of a desired hue to it gradually but it also works if you use brighter and cleaner tone, because weathering will dull it down.

[@punishedprops]

That's a neat tactic!

[@peaoat3608]

@@punishedprops I got good at mixing colors to match because I was too good to wear work clothes as a young adult and kept messing up my nice ones. To avoid trouble I would mix some paints to cover the stains. Worked for a few laundry cycles.

[@milgeekmedia]

Gosh! About halfway through I though 'oh no, he's ruined it!' - but I should have been more patient and have had more faith because - by the end - it looked gorgeous! :)

[@tylercampbell3134]

That reminds me i need to get my AE9k prototype finished

[@Josh-ck9bv]

Hey friendly tip! Use pet nail clippers to cut hard tubes or thin dowels

[@artiequick3583]

my friend: you can't smell a video me: *watching the painting part* are you sure about that?

[@WorkforceSFCC]

Also when you print on weird papers with a laser slow, hot, and straight are your 3 best friends. It varies from printer to printer but 80% of the time I find printing on Labels or Labels2 slows the printer down and causes the fuser to heat up to a nice temp. Then always utilize your printers multipurpose tray if it has one since it is normally the straightest path through your machine.

[@punishedprops]

Oh interesting. I didn't even consider using different settings on my laser printer.

[@WorkforceSFCC]

@@punishedprops Yeah commercial printers are by default meant for speed. This means weird papers like decals and stickers don't get the proper heat they need to properly fuse the toner to the surface which results in similar issues you were experiencing with the red line decals. Also if you think that may be something you want to roll into your production there are white toner printers out there but they are expensive due to the fact they require a titanium powder to achieve a stable white.

[@MagnaRyuuDesigns]

Also there are products at the hobby store to help decals adhere and to blend into what they are applied on to. I think they are apart of the Mr. Hobby line of products

[@punishedprops]

Excellent!

[@merrick3627]

If you end up using decals a lot, I cant recommend Microsol and Microset enough. They help with the decal adhere, and they soften and dissolve the film. It makes it lay SUPER flat across complex curves and angled surfaces

[@punishedprops]

Excellent! =)

[@salomehart8833]

It looks really awesome! Thank you, I've yet again learned wonderful new tips and tricks.

[@punishedprops]

Thank YOU for your support! We're so glad you enjoyed the video!

[@TLZ]

Another awesome video. Watching it again while I clean house. I love these long informative videos. Very inspiring.

[@punishedprops]

Yay! Thanks. =)

[@GoblinLord]

weathering is everything for this prop, it looked so wrong before but after the weathering it looks just like the game, good work man, personally based on size of the projectiles in the game, I'd make the energy mark bigger, like 2 to 3 times the size of what it is now, but that would really mess with the prop's aesthetic

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@jorgeherrera8481]

Amazing dude...I enjoy too much with your channel and I'm learning much tips! Thank you. Big hug from Spain!

[@punishedprops]

That's wonderful! Thanks for watching. =)

[@terryprideaux]

I have never built props and I have only built a few models, but I do love to watch your vids.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@Cacowninja]

0:23 When you hit alt instead of left click.

[@j05hu4h_8]

I play on Xbox so I’m assuming that alt is to melee hit with the gun.

[@thegreatestplan1879]

J05HU4H _ same

[@NotYou6430]

You should have gotten a nerf rival gun (idk which.Whatever works best) then built around that with 3D printed parts. Still was a great build

[@damien7079]

When mixing paint. Start with the lighter colour and then add the darker colour bit by bit. That way you don't waste too much paint.

[@SkeggoxWorkshop]

Bill it would be awesome if you could build a rad roach out of Eva foam and maybe it could be like a backpack type thing or a shoulder pet, almost like the roach from Wall-E but bigger, or of course build it on top of a backpack and it would still be just as cool

[@CatOnTheSun]

"I'M SURE IT'LL BE OK" The story of my life

[@shannoncharlton46]

Hey bill you should try upping the pressure psi and leave the paint a little thicker it may spray better

[@BrotherNo]

I wanna try that waterslide decal paper seems like a cool idea for custom made decals for gunpla.

[@punishedprops]

It absolutely is!

[@colinfindlay4790]

​@@punishedprops A thin coat of clear coat on the decals before you use them stops the toner lifting - although that instant weathered look was handy!

[@falloutplayer1118]

Make a bottle cap stash

[@Huncho_traxx]

11:56 " Hey Vsauce "

[@NJM1564]

I think the spotting from the hair spray looked like pitting you might have from cheap metal. Could be a good effect for the cheap pipe guns.

[@marshallr.8121]

seeing an airbrush always makes me silly happy, this is a good day^^

[@marshallr.8121]

why have i never thought of that transfer paper stuff.. existing, that sounds like a great way to be too cheap for a vinyl cutter..

[@RyanKhoo]

Awesome build as usual man! Almost gonna have to print one myself!

[@punishedprops]

Do iiiiid! =)

A little note on why the red looks okay on yellow while yellow on tan doesn't. So when you print, it is assumed that your medium is going to be white, so whenever you want to print a color that is not 100% (or above maybe with multiple print passes) it will just reduce the intensity of the color mix, leaving larger gaps between paint droplets. It results in a translucent print surface, which is undesirable in most cases. Although it is incredibly hard to do multiple passes on a home printer, it is certainly possible with some messing around. The Red (magenta+yellow) printed - even in lighter tones - onto a yellow surface will remain red. We use it in the signage industry quite a lot. The Yellow (basic color) cannot be printed onto any other base than white otherwise it will get a different hue. If you want to achieve strong yellow, you either need to make a print that gives 100% coverage, like multiple full print passes would result in, or get some sort of white base for the print. The main takeaway is that you must consider the composition and coverage of each color when you are printing a clear medium. It is wise to do a quick research on the workings of your printer to know the exact solution for the matter at hand. I hope this helps next time you print something. btw... Cool channel, keep it rocking man!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the awesome breakdown!

[@hughevans6516]

the blast marks looked sick dude

[@punishedprops]

Thanks very much! It ended up being a nice touch.

[@gravemarker]

I think you need to up the setting heat on your laser printer to keep the toner from flaking off the medium on those decals.

[@punishedprops]

Interesting. I didn't know that was something I could do with my laser printer.