QTR 95 VEVOR 4in 3 Jaw Chuck

[@melgross]

I know it’s too late now, but marking the body with the jaw numbers is just for convenience. The tracks for the jaws are exactly the same. So it doesn’t matter which one goes where, as long as you put them in 1, 2, 3, and in the direction of the scroll rotation. It’s the scroll that determines the accuracy of concentricity, along with the accuracy of the jaw teeth and faces. The sides of the jaws may not be as hard as the faces. Also, the outside of the chuck body isn’t always that concentric to the jaws. You really need to test concentricity with the chuck mounted directly to a spindle with the proper back. That the only thing that matters. I never check the outside of a chuck I put on my rotary table, only a pin to center it.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Excellent points. Thanks as always, Mel.

[@mjwint]

If you have time, check if the jaws are concentric with the mounting bolt circle or the recessed ring that a mounting plate will engage.

[@DudleyToolwright]

They should be close. I had the chuck flat against a parallel when I mounted it.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

That the chuck I need for my new 1954 craftsmen mini lathe 7×18. Great review, excellent video, keep'um coming..

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I'm glad I could help.

[@RockingJOffroad]

I use a 5” 3 jaw in my 10” 4 jaw to hold small parts. I can dial in the three jaw almost to .0001 where as my 10” 3 jaw is out by a few thousandths but if concentricity is really important the small 3 jaw works great. Usually the larger the part the looser the tolerances.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I was considering using the chuck in my 4-jaw as a sub chuck, but at least one of the pinions would be under a chuck jaw. I could remove a pinion and then I would be in luck. I still like the idea.

[@iTeerRex]

But like you said, if it’s connected directly, it’s almost within spec. And for 1/10th the price, it’s very decent.

[@DudleyToolwright]

The 1/10 the price is the real kicker. For a lot of applications, it is simply good enough.

[@AaronEngineering]

Still a handy little chuck to have for the money. Cheers 🍻 Aaron

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Yeah perfect for a tailstock chuck.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Pop some bearings in between the chuck and your tailstock MT and you have a live chuck center. I have one already and I chose 4 jaw, but it is a lot more work to dial in.

[@AaronEngineering]

@@DudleyToolwrightexcellent idea Robert 👍

[@crusader3012]

How would you fit this on to a drill press table? It's not centre threaded; not desirable to drill holes in the metal table.

[@DudleyToolwright]

It was more intended to a mill table with t-slots, but hold downs could work on a drill press table.

[@macsmachine]

Might even be easier to chuck an accurate bar that was machined between centers and grind the od of the chuck?

[@DudleyToolwright]

That is another very reasonable solution.

[@dudleycornman1624]

Do you have a tail stock chuck... if not, might be perfect.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I have a live 4-jaw tailstock chuck, but if I didn't...

[@CrazyTony65]

I'm betting they used prehard material for the jaws, 42 Rc is not hard to machine with carbide tools.

[@DudleyToolwright]

You are quite correct there. I was just machining some 4140PH and it was not hard at all.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Can you tell me how long of scale I need for a 54" bed on my lathe? Thanks.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I am not entirely sure. I would guess longer than 54", but I am not familiar with your specific lathe.

[@davidzindman]

I could use that one it would fit my mini lathe

[@DudleyToolwright]

Good news. I hope the quick review helped a little.

[@be007]

ok, thats 54 dollars to waste. i let this one pass by...

[@DudleyToolwright]

Understood. Thanks.