Radiator Fan Not Working? $18 DIY FIX! How to Wire a Radiator Fan to a Thermostatic Switch

Link to Fan Switch Below! If you have any questions, please comment.
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[@KGisthename]

You were born to do this young bro. For real man wow! Not a single instance of umm, so..., like I said, repearing yourself, or rumbling on and on. My hats off to you man. You sir deserve all of the views. Get on it algorithm!!!

[@hafunland894]

Nic I am very impressed this is the very best diy video I have ever seen in all my years! Thanks for sharing it!

[@vincesmith5846]

Very thorough and informative. Excellent content on your video man I hope you were still making them like this

[@papatacomoto]

Best description on line

[@SV-pt9qw]

Ditto that , awesome step by step !!

[@technicalitems731]

Can you show a little more detail of where you put the switch in the radiator hose? Just stick in the hose and clamp around the wire?

[@tomwolf4609]

Good job and informative..

[@christianginella5545]

Nice job! Well described video

[@bseries8826]

Great video. Lots of info

[@KGisthename]

I should say that i dont think that these things are supposed to get coolant flow right across the probe part bro. Just the temp inside the pressurized system will trigger it. It can handle some splashes but drowning it in coolant will almost certainly make it fail prematurely.

[@waylandbancroft1992]

What wires connect to the 2 connections on the temperature control switch?

[@wilfredoacevedo5828]

The factory thermostat that comes in the car ,it needs to be removed or keep it on?

[@yarkie1]

Great video! This is exactly what I'm doing in a couple days. I have a lincoln mark viii motor in my 67 f100 and I'm not running the vcrm either. How do you insure its set at the right temp? Is there a way to know?

[@nicbowen38]

yarkie1 I used the gauge on the dash as a reference point for when to turn it on and off. If you have no way to gauge coolant temp, then you will have no way to accurately adjust when it turns on.

[@flinch622]

The answer is... what are you running for an engine thermostat? [Coolant temp is meaningless to fan controls until there is collant flow with respect to a radiator]. The thermostat for controlling your fan is generally best at that same value to 10 degrees higher. But: ambient temperatures can sometimes be a trick to manage. I use dual fans for that reason. The one that pulls air across the radiator section with the transmission intercooler I switch on when engine is running. The other is on a thermostat which is radiator mounted [I think it is 185 degree]. In cold weather [anything less than 25 degrees or so], that fan never ever comes on: the probe never gets up to temp. The dual fan thing is a nice alternative to going old school for cold weather. Once upon a time, I used to cut cardboard to manage the cold, blocking 80% of radiator from incoming so the heater would kick in before I got to work, lol.

[@meverickjnphilip9885]

How you adjust it

[@troubledthoughts3936]

Should of shown how you wired the thermostatic switch to the relay.

[@nicbowen38]

The thermostatic switch is the switch on the relay, which is 86

[@joearreola5293]

Why did you use an additional relay to this controller/Potentiometer ? I thought it does both relay and switching?

[@nicbowen38]

joe arreola the thermostatic fan controller is only a switch. If you were to run the power wire from the switch straight to the fan, it would work, but the switch is not designed to support the 60a that the fan draws. It will eventually burn up, fail, or catch on fire. The purpose of the relay is to support the high amperage draw of the fan, and only use the switch at the 1-5amp current it is designed for

[@1979gmcummmins]

I've tried these before. Worked great at first then next thing you know my temp is pegged out. Had to replace them about every 3 to 4 months. After 6 warranties I threw it in the trash

[@Bulletz4Breakfast13]

Hey nic I'm no expert by any means but if that's the Hayden 3653 thermostatic switch with adjustable thermostat, then I don't believe it's supposed to be used in the hose intake, inside coolant. The manual for that switch states it should be hooked up 1" away from the top of the radiator fins facing the engine side. That that probe is designed to be on the radiator fins & read air temperature. I need to learn how to setup the relay, I have had a Hayden hooked up directly to the battery with no fuse or relay for many years. It was installed by a mechanic. But I don't like it, it turns on when Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L is off. I have no clue what the Amps my SUV requires because the OEM fan was a hydrolic fan system hooked up to power steering. I have some aftermarket fan in my Jeep put in before I became the owner. I believe my fan is draining my battery from running while the Jeep is not running/on. It also doesn't turn on with the AC. How do I fix this and how do I set the actuation temperature. I probably need a fuse (25A maybe) and a relay but also want it connected to AC. I don't think I want it ignition controlled because I want it to run 10-15min after SUV is off to cool engine when needed. What do you recommend? Should I get another kit and a fan controller or just a relay with the Hayden 3653 adjustable fan switch?

[@rigo713]

How do you adjust it?

[@geoffburrill9850]

What is orange car in background? Is it an Opel GT?

[@nicbowen38]

geoff burrill good eye! Yes it is. Checkout the video I posted of us getting it running and driving after 20 years of storage!

[@geoffburrill9850]

@@nicbowen38 Very nice, quite rare now.

[@Blaydrnnnr]

I did a dual fan install on my 2001 Dodge ram 2wd. Running two relays was a pain, but everything's working, EXCEPT.. I have an issue. Wonder if yours does this too? If I drive to the store, the fans come on around 100°, then I shut it down, run in and out of the store. The radiator is still pretty hot, so the temp sensor see's that, and the fans are running the second I hit the key, before the motor is even started, with puts a serious current draw on the system before the alternator is even turning. I think theres a different temp sensor set up out there that has a delay built in so that you get the motor and alternator turning, BEFORE the fans kick on..yours doing this too?

[@nicbowen38]

Your problem is that your 12v “switch” signal (the wire that gets power when you turn on and allows the fans to turn on) is not having power cut when cranking the truck. You need to figure out another 12v power source that has power interrupted when you crank it. If you need help figuring out what to switch to, let me know and I’ll do some research on your truck

[@Blaydrnnnr]

@@nicbowen38 Thanks for the reply. I actually didnt pay attention to whether or not the power cuts when the starter is engaged. I only noticed that, when I turn the key, if the rad is still hot from the drive, the fans come on before the key gets to the "start" position, making a pretty big current draw on the battery, before the truck even starts, then the alternator kicks in after it starts, and slowly gets back to optimal voltage. I'll check it today and let you know. Thanks again.

[@nicbowen38]

@@Blaydrnnnr I misinterpreted your issue. If your electrical system can’t sustain running the fan for a few minutes before turning the engine on and having the alternator recharge it, I would highly recommend cleaning all of your ground / positive connections and replace the battery. I know it’s a lot of current but your electrical system should have no problem sustaining it

[@Blaydrnnnr]

@@nicbowen38 Its not the "sustaining" part, the system charges back fine, its the fact that there is a combined 50A draw on the system during a "hot" start up that worries me. . ( Between two fans drawing 25A each ) Connections are good, and the battery is brand new. Flex a lite makes a delayed adjustable temp sensor, I might look into that, as well as a 160A alternator they make for this truck. We'll see. Thanks for the feedback.

[@nicbowen38]

@@Blaydrnnnr if that’s you’re only concern, then the only solution is to hook the remote 12v source to a source that gets electricity when the key is on and shuts off intermittently during startup 👍

[@palaciosivan100]

I’m having the issue that Radiator fluid is leaking from where the wire goes into the top radiator hose. Do you have any suggestions on fixing this?

[@nicbowen38]

I also had this issue, I repositioned the wire to the 12:00 position on the hose, made sure that the probe was fully in the radiator hose, and tightened the hose clamp more. That fixed the issue

[@palaciosivan100]

@@nicbowen38 I have repositioned it and still leaking Idk what to do now

[@aguitarhero007]

It’s not supposed to be in the radiator hose at all..it goes through the radiator fins

[@palaciosivan100]

@@aguitarhero007 if I’m understanding this correctly it goes through fins on the radiator in the outside not in the radiator?

[@keithpatterson8749]

Skip to 5:28!! Your welcome

[@bentramell729]

Really wish you would have step by step shown the actual install, each wire running to.a from where, way too much time spent on introduction, then you skip straight to it already being hooked up trying pause the video to see where and how all the wires are hooked up, frustrating video and not helpful really.

[@davidjessee7701]

The probe goes to the back of the radiator with the supplied strap..

[@davidjessee7701]

So vague .. this is informative...

[@bentramell729]

I thought so too, the probe is meant to go in the radiator coils not inside the radiator hose, they'll probably damage it quickly being wet and extremely hot like that

[@ashton7647]

This bro just need to show me how to install it

[@saltpepper1894]

why would you put electric stuff behind grill when theres many better places to mount em? water will get to it....water & electricity dont mix

[@JordanBrinkerhoff23]

DO NOT USE 30 and 87 this way!!! Swap them!! 30 to constant and 87 to the fan!!!

[@shaunjerseyarcilla1463]

qyestion

[@brknnecks_e3992]

Did you realize that the probe was ment to go in between the radiation coils throughthe radiator, not inside the hose!

[@nicbowen38]

Felix Rosario that was what the directions said, it did not work for me in that position so I installed it in the hose with better results, however my first thermostatic switch was defective and wouldn’t turn off once the desired temp was reached

[@Ian-of9oi]

So did it leak when you installed it in the rad hose like that? I might do something similar with a temp gauge. My car has green digital gauges and the only temp gauge I can find that matches has a wire probe.

[@nicbowen38]

@@Ian-of9oi if installing in the radiator hose, position the wire at the 12:00 position and make sure the probe is past any point of contact in the radiator hose. I got mine to not leak in that position

[@Ian-of9oi]

Update. I drilled a hole in a pipe, installed the wire, jb welded the hole. 2 months still good.

[@zikiflx]

This video really doesn't make much sense since it's really not showing the real installation details which is what we're here for❗

[@michaelprisco9823]

terrible instructions, likes to hear himself talk