RAM ProMaster Upfitter Auxiliary Switch Guide

Here's my quick how-to on using the ProMaster Auxiliary Switches and the Upfitter Connector. I'm trying to keep these videos to less than 5 minutes, so I glossed over removing the B-pillar cover.
The plastic 15-pin plug is a Tyco 1-480710-0. I found them available on eBay. Make sure your order comes with the metal pins to solder to your wires. Here's one that I found: www.ebay.com/i...
When you're looking at the connector, its pins are numbered:
3 2 1
6 5 4
9 8 7
12 11 10
15 14 13
Pins I used:
12: Auxiliary 2
13: Ingition Feed (relay source)
14: Rear HVAC (relay trigger)
15: Auxiliary 1
I also referenced using the positive pin from the Auxiliary Power Connector, which can provide up to 70 Amps.
Official Upfitter Connector Pinout from the RAM Body Builder Guide:
www.ramtrucks....
Auxiliary Power Connector Pinout from the RAM Body Builder Guide:
www.ramtrucks....
Information about the Auxiliary switches from the RAM Body Builder Guide: www.ramtrucks....

[@DuaneRonan]

Thank you so much for your insight into the ProMaster. I have previously only worked on the Sprinter so it's super helpful!

[@stevecasey6411]

Super helpful! Thanks!

[@randyharrisphoto]

Thanks for the info. Do you know how to remove that Aux switch panel? I have the old one, without Aux1 & Aux2 and bought the one shown in your video. Thanks

[@M4K9G22]

Thanks for the great info! I want to add a small fuse block like the one you added to the bottom of the B pillar. Can you post a link to the one you have? Can you still fit the factory plastic panel over it, or are you using something else to cover up all your wiring?

[@Legfree1]

Thanks, Noah, for the quick tutorial ! I'm trying to connect a light bar on my promaster on the Aux port. I'm wondering where to connect the negative. Any idea ?

[@theresedavis9358]

??

[@michaelmoore9139]

Thanks!

[@charlesshafer5011]

Hello Noah...great video. I need your help with the aux connections at the b pillar and how they're supposed to be connected at the buttons

[@NoahAxon]

The AUX1 and AUX2 buttons directly control the pins of that connector as I showed here. If you have the buttons on the dash, you don't need to do anything special. If you don't have the buttons on the dash, you will have to add your own switches, wiring, and relays and you probably can't rely on this upfitter connector, though, I think the high-power positive wire will still be there. It runs straight to the battery through a 50a or 70a fuse depending on model year, but it's not switched in any way.

[@bjsorensen]

I have been searching for hours on this option in the PM w/ aux switches! Thank you so much for posting this. I'm just diving into automotive electrical, so I'm still very green. I'd love to get more step-by-step or detailed instructions for getting those aux switches in use...12V outlet like you have for 1 switch and who knows what else for the other. LED lighting?

[@californiacruising4190]

I second that, I'm trying to wire my LED light bar and can't figure out if the Aux switch will be able to handle it with a 40amp relay and if I even need a fuse, as I think the aux also has fuses in the fuse box.

[@bjsorensen]

@@californiacruising4190 I learned a bit more since my initial comment. My PM came stock with a 70amp fuse for that part of the upfitter package. I used one of the Aux switches for upfront LED lights. I don't recall the fuse size on that line, but I think it's 30amp. So, my setup is a set of LED lights with a ??#amp inline fuse wired directly to the upfitter with the ground installed nearby (just tapped a new ground location).

[@californiacruising4190]

@@bjsorensen Thanks! I will try that

[@WF007]

If it’s cutaway or chassis Promaster where is better to connect wire if we install 14ft box and we need marker lights and inside box light? Thank you

[@NoahAxon]

I haven't seen how the wiring works on a cutaway / box truck promaster chassis. I'd assume a similar panel is still there on the B-Pillar behind the passenger seat. You might need to drill and grommet a hole through to the box. I really don't know.

[@donkent6136]

What is the proper type of connector to use for the 70amp wire? (where you used the spade connector)

[@jeffmallo2755]

Noah great videos and keep them coming! So if I am understanding this correctly in order to use the aux1 and aux2 buttons you plug the wires into the connections on the B pillar that you were showing. Is that correct?

[@NoahAxon]

Yep. The lower left corner is AUX1 and the one above it is AUX2. They are controlled with the two little red relays there and have 20A fuses in there as well, so each auxiliary switch can run up to 20A worth of stuff (provided your wiring can handle it)

[@bernardgalimba8144]

My b pillar positive negative doenst have power do you know where the fuse located at, I need to check and replace it

[@NoahAxon]

The battery is Under the floor in front of the drivers seat. If you open the access panel, your should see several 70A fuses attached to an odd-shaped metal plate that's on top of the battery positive terminal. One of those big fuses attached directly to that metal plate is the one that leads to the b pillar positive power wire.

[@9chase26]

Hey Noah, I completed this install and noticed I wasn’t getting any power to my device. I pulled my aux switch from the dash and it turns out my wiring harness doesn’t have a connection from the Aux 1/2 buttons to the plug in the B pillar. Do you know where I can get the little connectors to run a wire between those two?

[@NoahAxon]

That's pretty wild. As far as I know, the AUX1/2 buttons were only installed from the factory with the upfitter electrical option, in which case everything ought to be hooked up. Most of these vans don't even have those buttons. I'm still relatively new to the ProMaster scene, though. No wires hooked up to those buttons at all? Do you have the little red relays next to the upfitter connector? I believe those are also only present with the upfitter electrical package. If those are present, I'd be looking thoroughly behind the dash to see if the wire harness came unplugged.

[@9chase26]

@@NoahAxon Thanks for the answer. Here’s another question that might help me out. The black plug that goes into the switch panel on the dash has two empty spots. Does yours also have two empties or are all 15 connected to wires?

[@NoahAxon]

@@9chase26 I have tried to figure out how to easily get a glimpse behind those dash buttons without wholly disassembling the dash and I'm coming up empty handed. My inspection mirror doesn't get up there easily from the fuse box opening, and while it looks like the outer driver's side HVAC vent next to those buttons should just pop out of the dashboard, it feels like I'm about to break it no matter which way I try. Any ideas to help me get a good look back there?

[@gpswildride]

Where do I attach the ground for auxiliary switch 2?

[@NoahAxon]

I drilled a small pilot hole in the b-pillar and sanded around it, then used a self tapping sheet metal screw, washers and eye lugs to ground all of the accessories I terminated there.

[@gpswildride]

@@NoahAxon That blew my mind, you responded so quickly!! Thanks. My sister kept wanting to use one of those remaining pin holes.

[@wlerik]

I am a novice when it comes to DC electric. That said, not sure how such a small wire as you have with the spade plug could ever handle 70 amps.

[@NoahAxon]

You'll notice I said I am running a small load on it. Right now, it's effectively driving only the always-on 12V outlet I mounted on the B-Pillar. If you look closely, that outlet is going through the upper fuse panel, and it's limited to 10 amps. The wire feeding that connector on the other side is 4AWG, if I recall.