RB26 Oil Issue Truth & The Real Solution

Goal of this video is to show why we take our oiling modifications as seriously as we do. Your RB26 (all engines) need to maintain optimum oil pressure to stay alive and anything that can be done to ensure this crucial.
Any questions please email us [e-mail]

[@No_Grip_Racing]

Thank you for doing the log testing; I have not seen that before! As an engineer, It’s really interesting to see the data there to back up all of these claims of oil flow, and to finally conclude that most of the issue is just sump capacity. This kind of explains why Porsche’s use high capacity sumps.

[@carl1011]

Running the recommended setups shown in this video on my built motor. She is running flawlessly up to redline. Being able to run an RB this high consistently without worrying about it blowing up is amazing. This is the way

[@slvrbakslpz4690]

Out of all the years I've been researching and combing forums, I've never seen someone post logs to explain. I appreciate that. Something critical to remember on why the RB has draining issues is due to the 10deg tilt. This results to drainage being limited to the exhaust side only. The hole diameter doesn't help either. Billet/spline gears, oil restrictor, extended sump, head drain and plum to sum catch can are a must for the RB.

[@Atpowell93]

Earned my subscription with this one. Awesome video. Straight to the point with facts and receipts to prove it. Thank you. Keep ‘em coming. Nothing like videos like this to help our community thrive.

[@stefana.4728]

Like the name on the PRP oil pump box lol so happy you are the only one touching my cars !!! 😊

[@ravperformance]

😁😁

[@sampignatelli]

This explanation is spot on ! I have many logs showing the exact same correlation pre & post pan extension on mine!

[@antonioallen8665]

Great video, thank you for posting this! I’m currently upgrading to a nismo n1 pump with the tomei baffle kit, and an N1 2.6l Billet Oil Pump Gear. I’m running stock power on my r33 gtr. I’ll definitely do the extended oil pan when I’m ready to build it!

[@ravperformance]

Great way to protect your investment!

[@crouton420]

Great video. Learned something new today.

[@jaydstewart]

Thank you for providing an evidence-based assessment of this age old argument! I'm currently looking for a shop to put together my RB25-based Nitto RB28 stroker and this kind of analysis makes me think that your company should be my top choice here in South Florida! I need to swing by and take a further look at your operation it seems!

[@loz_a8069]

Great info! Thank you!!

[@jammalclayton2978]

Thanks 🙏🏾 for doing this

[@EE9Civic]

Good information. I can't disagree with any of that.

[@mrtongueface8454]

Great video, it's so nice to see claims backed up be real data and your stance on having a discussion with people who don't agree is really confidence inspiring. I wanted to ask if you would do similar oil control work on an RB20 as well, around the 350bhp range? Would love to hear your thoughts 😊

[@ravperformance]

On the rwd 20 and 25 you won't see to many issues until big power or track/drift use. But the same concept applies just not as early and severely as the 4wd pan RBs

[@MI300zx]

Good information ! With good data.

[@dexlex2002]

Great video guys!

[@user-cc1rf4zp8w]

I would say just a couple other easy things to help working press throughout the whole system and other than just oil flow regulation from upgraded oil pump. catch can closed loop setup or returns to sump lines would be one way checks and for break ins for sure or ethanol too. many variables so basicly any motor can benefit a proper specd setup inline filter for cleaning blow/catch oil to sump return. cans also need proper breathing as well. Also the few builds that we have used the Turbosmart press regulators for turbo oiling systems have been a nice addition as well. I dont think I heard you mention the rear head drain or rocker baffles are other basics. The top 3 things from your video though, if you could only do 3, (in my opinion), would definetly be upgraded pump, sump capacity, and EMS sensor/tuning precaution limiters. some other things i feel get overlooked a bit would be just plain correct install of an aftermarket pump, crank balance and proper spec/in tolerance, bearings and in line with block etc etc and if mismatched or blown/rebuilt. any unwanted harmonics as well or excessive movement, walking, whatever that would cause, of course gear sharp quick engagement shock and some pressure fluctuations. possibly a crank damper can help pumps along with a good belt for helping possible stretch seperation effecting pump gears or even effect (factory) CAS data loss to EMS in a scenario where real time correction or limiters, this that and need position data, and cant correct limit retard during whatever concurent danger scenario happens an oil press drop/starve, but fuel still getting to combustion, domino effect and etc etc etc, im getting into a bit different direction now tho. As you guys know, RB's more than most all other period motors, require a very specific harmony of parts and have traits and tricks only real world experience building RB's will give you. So last advice for owners wanting to do anything, mild to crazy, its a 100% must to not settle on any builder or parts dealer unless they truely know and have RB experience. RB's have a horrible reputation in the USA and it needs to change. Take the time to find RB specialty shops like RAV. And guys one last cringe i have, please get rid of the majorly unsupported motor but bangin the 2 step for show and limiter campout pop bang crackle, slap, scrape, float, shim spit cherry topped map that your neighbor not even born till the R35 era "who tunes" and spec's parts off his gran turismo build experience, made for you an hour before the Saturday night Pho/Boba shop meetup. please feel free to respond if you have any different thoughts or advice, theroy etc to my possible oil mod additions before i went off tangent. Cause who knows maybe I dont know F all of anything RB over 35+ builds anyway

[@ravperformance]

We did mention head drain and baffles, both sump and vavle cover. They help, but do not fix the oil starvation issue. Much like you can see slight improvement from over filling, you'll see slight improvements from the basics. Point of video is that an extended sump is the only real way to fix oil starvation with out going accusump or dry sump

[@user-cc1rf4zp8w]

​@@ravperformance sorry, i took a call right then and i didnt see that part of the vid clip. So also whats your take on using filter, checks, on returns to help stay steady with oil pushing back? help with cavitation/case press? or turbo press reg w/ feed restriction? we saw a little less drop from gear to gear especially with a few of the smaller street stroker builds that were still reving higher (i.e 26 block strokers, built/ported head and usable 9k) So maybe a bit more of a specific question i had with that, if you have any experience/thinking there. None of this having any part or in replace of or not doing the mods for sump capacity, baffle, traps modification either. I 100% agree that is necessasary for any RB from the get go and a must have. So many half ass corner cut builds are done applying bad or outdated RB build theroy. Having spent 2016-2022 in Australia building RB's and learning so much over there with the real RB guru's changed my thinking and building so much. I love to try to bring my experiences back to the USA market now and show how capable, and even reliable, this platform really is. So definetly Love to see the other shops that have the real work experience to show data so we can start to discuss and apply good building in the states. The RB has had such a horrible name here in the USA forever. Lets keep up the work to change that! I think it was a rav video with you I saw doing some work with Haltech 2500T for street tuning 12injs for staged Eth % w the advanced boost by gear/advanced Torque function tables while using DBW and the 50mm E-straight gate as well. I have a build that I would love to give you a call to talk about that Haltech tuning you did. especially your experience with that e gate. let me know if thats cool to call up and discuss. Thanks brutha

[@ravperformance]

@user-cc1rf4zp8w the idea stays the same. Some help, some fix. You have to pick what your willing to "deal" with.

[@user-cc1rf4zp8w]

@@ravperformance oh nice thanks for the super awesome response. I know, not really where to easily talk in depth anyway. Cheers Brue

[@syngarage]

Great informative video Roberto.

[@boris9331]

Tomei pump is also a proven pump with big power and revs. Extended Trust sump is fine if not lowered too much e.g S-tune suspension, have cleared many steep angles

[@SinghsPlace]

Thanks for posting, this is great info, when you said the oil was overfilled, how much over?

[@ravperformance]

Go to the first notch on the dip stick

[@sebiadi]

pretty interesting how nissan could miss a fault like this, i would except an oe to test an engine like this extensively

[@MollyDogsm]

It's not really a fault. Stock engine with stock power levels is unlikely to have any major issues result from this. That's really all Nissan care about.

[@vannyboxadventures7327]

Great information dude many thanks for taking the time to do this. Quick question, I have BNR32 with 30k kms completely stock except for R34 turbos, Apexi intakes and Catless Velside exhaust. How much extra oil would you add above the full mark? I don’t drive the car often and not really that hard however i am tempted to remove boost restriction pill as I have the R34 turbos is this a bad idea ? Really appreciate any advice you can give.

[@ravperformance]

Overfill to the notch and run a 60 weight oil. Get an ecu with oil psi protection and youll be fine

[@vannyboxadventures7327]

Many thanks, are there any other options than replacing ECU? Would like to keep the car stock.

[@ravperformance]

Sadly, no. Having an aftermarket ECU constantly monitoring and setup to react to low oil pressure is the best investment you can make. Plenty can offer this fearure without getting rid of the oem look and drivability

[@vannyboxadventures7327]

Thanks very much for your help on this much appreciated!

[@attilabakk407]

What's your opinion on spline drive pumps? When I built mine I had a collar machined onto my short nose crank. My understanding is it eliminates any possibility of slip, which is still possible on a long nose.

[@ravperformance]

If your flat drive slips, it's already too late. The idea behind the spline drive is more surface area, so less wear over time. With that being said, it's the better choice but a flat drive with billet gears will probably never give any issues.

[@r34bryan]

Great video, I got some questions about the catch can setup. When returning the oil to the sump, do you recon a 6an plug on the can is big enough? And do you prefer venting the air to atmosphere or plumbing it back into the intake? If plumbing back, does it matter where you plumb it to? Thanks!

[@ravperformance]

6an is more than enough of a drain. You run the vent before the turbo inlet

[@schalachi]

Would i be safe to use upgrade pan, oem pump, prp head drain. Track car of 400hp. Rb25det

[@ravperformance]

If by oem pump you mean one with billet gears, then sure thing.

[@schalachi]

Thank you. I know what to do now. I know where to put my transducer Thanks a lot

[@MrTelefunk]

What are your thoughts on an accusump system for this issue? Either as an alternative or as an additional supplemental safety?

[@ravperformance]

For dedicated track cars all day. For street driven cars, it's a lot to take care of and find space for. But i would only recommend an accusump as an add on, not a replacement for more pan capacity

[@JapTuningSweden]

Great video! Have you tried with different oil viscosity? A 30wt vs 60wt is most likely a difference in the time it takes to flow back to the sump. Would be interesting to know what viscosity you are using in the tests as well?

[@ravperformance]

I have, actually. It's almost not different at all. Will still lose pressure in the same spot. I have even done hot 30w and cold 60w tests. The cold 60w was a bit more dramatic of a dip in pressure. But 5psi is just splitting hairs when you are talking about a consistent 60%+ dip in pressure

[@JapTuningSweden]

Interesting, thanks. The group N cars had stock oil pan but not a huge amount of grip when racing. The oil pump in Gr. N is not a high flow pump either. Gr.A is another story where both larger oil pan, high flow oil pump and different baffles in the sump were used. Again, great video

[@pauldownsyuen8493]

So why not just use an oil accumulator?

[@chuckgf8]

Did the extended pan have the Nismo baffle that Leask likes to use? Need to log stock pans with a non factory baffle (Nismo/Tomei/HR) that keeps the oil from going to the back of the pan on hard acceleration. I would bet that inertia and lack of oil control is more to blame than lack of oil volume.

[@ravperformance]

I have done multiple stock pans with nismo and tomei baffles. Little to no change. I have done 4 pan extensions with the stock baffles. All over 600hp, all have perfect oil pressure to redline in every gear.

[@chuckgf8]

​@@ravperformancedo you have the data from the baffled stock pans to do a comparison with?

[@ravperformance]

@chuckgf8 Yes, both the higher hp examples in the video are stock pans with nismo baffles. The oil pan baffles only help keep oil centered. If no oil is present, they don't help very much.

[@cubegamer3905]

so on a bone stock long crank car the best way to prevent oil starvation and oil pump failure are to upgrade the stock oil pump to billet gears inside and to install an increased volume pan? anything else that you recommend to give the engine the best chance?

[@ravperformance]

An ecu with the ability to monitor and react to low oil pressure. Along with other engine basics like knock, aft and temps

[@cubegamer3905]

@@ravperformance do you have any ecus that you recommend for r32s? I was thinking probably haltech elite

[@ravperformance]

@cubegamer3905 Yes, the elite 2500 covers all bases as long as the tune has been set up correctly. Haltech has one of the better engine protection strategies on the market

[@cubegamer3905]

@@ravperformance sweet tysm!

[@ravperformance]

@@cubegamer3905 we do stock the ecu and all seniors needed. Just shoot us an email for pricing. [e-mail]

[@andreasgran9326]

So what is the total solution bigger oilpan,drain from catchcan to pan,baffles in top of cam covers and upgraded oilpump and pump gear. Can you get away with just oilpan upgrade or is it a bad idea?

[@ravperformance]

Great question. As an experiment, i did the oil pan upgrade without changing anything on a car last year. Oil starvation was still nowhere to be found at 600hp. But because the other modifications are so inexpensive, why not do them all. Oil restrictor and pan baffle being the runner ups. Valve cover baffles are only really relevant if you are running a sealed catch can. But won't hurt

[@wheeler32_]

You didn't mention head restricters or rear head drains

[@ravperformance]

Yes, I did. They both are part of the mods that help but don't fix the issue.

[@2johnz_gte]

Restrictor doesnt fix the issue??

[@ravperformance]

@@2johnz_gte the head restrictor shows virtually no difference in oil pressure drop. It does help keep oil trying to head to the catch can.

[@sacredgear]

If you’re on stock rb26 oil pan, how much should you overfill? Not sure if that was in the video

[@ravperformance]

To the notch. Its about another 1/2 quart

[@boris9331]

Also don't take fast corners while mashing the throttle if you want to keep the bottom end healthy on stock setup