SAVING the RB26 from DISASTER

[@MotiveVideo]

We ran a stock pump for 5-6 years, developed past 750whp and ran 9 second passes. Limiter and shock loading breaks them, even upgraded ones. Generally bad driving and tuning breaks them, but with so much of that around, its worth the upgrade.

[@speedacademy]

Thanks for the info, also heard maching the block mains can sometimes result in misalignment and cause them failing.

[@zeroyon9]

Stock pump is not an N1 pump ....

[@Pjmperez01]

Oooohh Motive is here... Project not so secret 👍

[@djhatton]

you also ran the head restrictors, external drain and an accumulator too, yeah?

[@hotworksfab]

@@speedacademy If you are doing this, You should 100% do the external oil drain in the head/should have done this when you did the oil pump :/

[@Fast-is-Fun]

Today on Speed Academy, we are once again taking this engine apart. :D

[@Eastbayfitteds_]

😂💪🏾

[@Young_rizzoto]

Its crazy how an engine can be so saught after that you can literally prop up an entire channel with content about modifying and repairing it

[@Captaindan7141]

The pan sealants not hardening is due to aerobic need, it's like it's still in the tube so it won't harden.

[@jkflorida]

It’s awesome that you guys give credit to all the other KZbinrs out there!

[@quinty26]

This engine is like taking care of a newborn. Team JZ for the win. Reliable power.

[@asianboyyy117]

RB is race engine, jz is for power nuts

[@krispykruzer]

Hehehe

[@ButtKickersReviews]

Asianboyyy117 That statement makes no sense. For a ‘race engine’ there are quite a few brittle parts. Race engines don’t have oil pump gears as a failure point. Also, how many RB’s have been raced competitively? I’d be willing to bet more JZ’s have been race engines 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@shortybj40]

@@ButtKickersReviews I don't think so, toyota didn't even use the 2jz in the supra race cars

[@Stealthgato]

@@ButtKickersReviews Well, the GTRs got their reputation demolishing everything in Bathurst with the RB26, while Toyota themselves in JGTC prefered to use Supras with a 4-cylinder 3S-GTE instead of the 2JZ :P

[@mcorkery]

Oil pump blew on my RB26. New motor had billet gears and never a problem.

[@sattya87]

I love how you guys are so knowledgeable and are willing to take advices as well. I love what you guys are and what you guys are doing. I don’t even have a car to modify and I’m still watching.

[@utsavmamtora7503]

It’s not a bad thing that it’s stretched out to another episode, this content is what we want! Real life problems! Glad you changed the gear ⚙️ I have a stock N1 pump with approx 3k on a new build (500whp, 7800rpm limit) and no issues but want to get a billet gear in for peace of mind. Keep up the great work chaps!

[@BrianCrofoot]

Every RB I build gets extended snout and billet gears. Nothing better than banging an RB off of limiter without worrying about it.

[@gavinsroczinski105]

Rb26’s don’t need extended snouts except maybe early production r32 26’s, the short snout is on the series 1 and 2 rb25’s. The oil pump gear has 22mm of engagement and the series 1 and 2 rb25’s only engage 11mm of it so vibrations and harmonics cause it to shred the gear

[@Aviator-CFRN]

Good stuff. I like the pre-testing oil and cooling system before install. A few years back I built an RB26, and found a coolant leak way back under the intake plenum that took 4 full days to access and correct after install. As for the N1 pump - I did install with new N1 crank and have no issues yet ( 3 years with revs to 8200 rpm). I have recently sold the car and the owner did blow the HKS 2530 turbo, but otherwise running strong.

[@nicholasfutrell4664]

Thanks so much for showing how to pressurize cooling and oiling systems on the stand. I'm in the middle of rebuilding a long rod 306 and this had never occurred to me. The nightmare of installing the engine just to pull it for leaks, has been haunting me. The more you know, right? lol

[@jeffreymoore4132]

A fast way to chill parts is to used a dry ice bath: combine some crushed dry ice and ethanol. It'll drop the parts to the temp of the dry ice (-78C) in minutes.

[@FirstContactX]

"Its giving you heartburn?" - Dave. The banter is always amazing

[@14KShadow]

I hope this build keeps going because I'm loving every minute

[@FullTimePRO]

Three or four hundred bucks is CHEAP insurance on a motor that now goes for 10-15k nowadays, glad you came around! While the pump is in pieces it's the perfect time to smooth out some of the oil cavity transitions and make sure you use the alignment tool when installing it! EDIT> Also, wow @ that $600ish USD crank pulley remover tool wow!!! Oil pump back plate tq specs are 2.7-3.7ft/lb on page EN-96 of the R32 GT-R Service manual (should be same for 33 engine). As for the oil filter housing pressure sensors and whatnot, I'd remote mount it, you go over a few solid bumps and there's no telling what could happen :-/

[@y.b.-]

The risk with the O/P contraption being so bulky is that, believe it or not, it is sensitive to vibrations and in the worst case it will snap (happened to an SR20 build I worked on long time ago) If you can I would advise to install it remotelly and/or make sure you have some dampening or bracket fabed up to reduce the risk.

[@heyhayhay247]

Same here. I snapped a similar contraction on an R53 Mini. It was fine on the street, but blew on track. Luckily, nothing caught fire. It has now been remote mounted for over a year without issue.

[@DiabloDeezy]

Oil sensor T setup is spot on. Absolutely nothing to worry about.

[@ironhornforge]

I'm glad you listened, it's so important

[@littlenismo]

I've commented on every one of your videos to say the same thing: I've got a 650hp R33 GTR an run an N1 pump with REMAZ billet gears. It failed and broke the block. I've seen so many standard ones fail and so many oil starvation problems. If you drive yours hard especially on the track it will likely fail as well. Install restrictors, big oil cooler, do the oil galleries, put in an oil drain, do head baffles, put in a high flow pump like HKS, Nitto or Tomei, and a big baffled sump. Also suggest you install an oil pressure cut and a good oil pressure gauge (standard oil senders suck!) Small price to pay to know it will survive...

[@FrankKumro]

I think it's a smart move Pete, you won't regret it. If you didn't change it, you would always be worried about it failing. Any concerns about debris in the engine after hammering in that radium fitting?

[@roach362]

Oiling was always a pretty big issue with the RB25/26 especially once you start pushing them, whether the gears failing or pooling in the head, anything that helps with that is worth it imo. Only other basic thing I would have done is swap in an integrated main cap cradle/girdle, they do wonders for block twist, they're expensive but add a lot of piece of mind. I hate having to use thread lock on Phillips/JIS/Pozi fasteners, gotta really hope it never has to come apart.

[@DJ_Driven]

The longer I watch this build the more I realize the RB26 has some serious shortcomings.

[@dawicked2k8]

yeah such a garbage ass motor, Smokey Nagata got rid of his 2JZ and put a RB26 into his Supra kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2G7mYmbi69pedk

[@sepg5084]

@@dawicked2k8 so what? People have swapped LS engines all over the place, i guess that means it is a better motor.

[@dawicked2k8]

Sep G dont comment again please, your comment shows your level of incompetence

[@hawkijustin]

@@dawicked2k8 the 2JZ is a better motor. It’s not even close.

[@dawicked2k8]

Justin Fahrenkrug not really, but the Castrol Supra that raced in Japan didn’t bother with it, bacause the 2JZ is too damn heavy, they used a different motor, and like I linked before, Smokey Nagata a renowned Japanese Tuner didn’t bother with the 2JZ either, yall think the 2JZ is so great cause alot of mofos with supras love to brag about 1,000 horse power

[@BjornFSE]

@16:40 on the radium website the instructions for these actually tell you to put them into the freezer & also to put a little oil on the surface pre-install

[@LFshlevin]

yea but they clearly used bearing grease which wont evacuate that space under heat and pressure, absolute idiots

[@DavisSgt]

I like the different philosophies DP and PT has building their cars. DP likes to modify, sometimes to hotboi spec while PT likes to keep it OEM+.

[@corky9127]

RB Timing belt tension is a hot topic on RB Facebook pages and forums. The general consensus is follow the manual! The tensioner spring is there for a reason and you don't need to add any extra tension and don't need to get the tensioner hex hole to 6 o clock position. RBs generally like the belt to run a little bit looser if anything. When everything heats up and the head expands, it sits just right.

[@86Spain]

loving the oil pressure tester and being able to check it before chucking the engine in the car

[@Addmoreboost]

So glad to see you doing it right with the pump gears. Cheers boys!

[@anomamos9095]

A fix people have tried with that oil pump is to use thread locker or epoxy to glue it to the crank so it doesn't chatter which causes the shatter.

[@DanielMaddux1]

The grooves in the oil pan surface are for catching squeeze out and keeping it from getting into the crankcase. It is engineered with the intent of just running a bead of sealant around the outside of them and then assembling.

[@pontiakgaSport]

It’s awesome to see a skyline build since they are so uncommon to us in the states... but as an SC owner and Toyo tech I’m team Dave for sure. The 90’s Nissan timing belt tensioning procedures I’ve seen and done are just bizarre like that. 2jz, put it on, pull the pin done.

[@shirunai]

Its always good to remote the oilpressure sensor, since it doesnt like vibrations, its more crucial on the 4cylinder engines and V6

[@justso1823]

I'm glad you spoke to Tommy 💪💪💪

[@meanddrew4364]

My oil pump blew. So now I've upgraded to a n1 oil pump with billet gears and a n1 crankshaft aka a long nose. That's what the real setup you need

[@therealboofighter]

That pre oil system is cool.

[@Smokkedandslammed]

The bronze with the red on the supra is so super clean 🤤 GTR and Supra are both #1 in my book

[@evo80hd]

RE: the oil pressure sender etc I removed the T and all and ran a SS line to the firewall were I mounted the two senders etc. I never had a failure, it just seemed like good insurance.

[@Driftingkalamari]

Great stuff as always! I enjoyed watching you all problem solve and explain possible failure areas, thanks a million!

[@capnthepeafarmer]

+1 for the Permatex Ultra Gray. I use it for sealing the oil pans of my rotary engines. Works like a charm! Also, the big boy gasket scraper is the Lisle 51000 Heavy duty scraper, it's on a different level than any of that cheap junk that uses a razor.

[@mattodowd5314]

Best sealant I have ever used is the Toyota FIPG black packing seal. Not terribly expensive. Use it on cam covers and oil pan, stuff seals amazingly.

[@initialspeed]

Never fails. Always something to stop us from moving forward. One bolt. One fitting. All part of the fun I guess 😉

[@tougeindustry]

Had a n1 pump go on the dyno on a brand new customer build a couple of year ago ... that gear set was a good move

[@MRMAN-wb1tv]

*Tommy F Yeah and his crew have mastered these engines!!!*

[@rarile6307]

Pete and David debating the looks of the Supra and the GTR and the Porsche 930 in the back ground of the shot is what grabs my attention lol.

[@Hardcore_flat_four]

Dave.. “the gtr is giving you heart burn” 🤣🤣

[@rdub6941]

Good call on removing the hondabond Red seal technician here in Canada, worked for Honda dealers for 13 years and hondabond sucks. For any repairs requiring gasket maker, every Honda technician I know would use Honda ultra flange instead of hondabond. Much higher quality product that can be heat cycled before fully curing and not cause a leak. Highly recommend. For my Nissan engine builds, mainly sr20det's, I have had great success with Nissan OEM gasket maker too. I think it is identical to Honda ultra flange. Basically, anything but hondabond lol

[@ButtKickersReviews]

Yea,.. I’m an ex Audi tech, who’s worked in the aftermarket for 20 years. Everyone screams ‘MUH HONDABOND’ because they heard someone else say it’s good, but it’s crap in reality.. Permatex Grey is my go to, but there are others

[@masetcp]

FYI. That plastic razor blade you're using is great I have used that many times. One thing I have done is took a angle grinder and sharpened the tip of the razor blade with great results as well without ruining anything!

[@d.mat.zero6525]

man i wish i was one of the people that had an N1 oil pump failure. bc that would mean i would have an GTR sure fixing the failure would be it's own issue. but the price of GTR34's is at GPU levels

[@juliusplaysgames]

There is no air in the oil pan pockets so the Honda Bond can't dry. It's just like having the tube with the cap on you know.

[@Icysoles60]

Brilliant

[@ButtKickersReviews]

Common sense isn’t so common Julien. Kinda sad innit?

[@minilurk11]

I would use an impact driver to put those Phillips head screws in

[@granthawtree4669]

It’s that extra peace of mind with billet gears

[@hk20000]

RB26dett on standard R33 oil pump and it has just rolled over 196,000km driven super hard all its life. No signs of failure the oil pressure on the factory triple gauge reads as it should.... No idea if it would tho. Fun fact: if you dropped the N1 factory gear on the concrete, it will shatter like whistlindiesel's cam shafts...

[@CanadaBud23]

Legend has it anything he touches turns to white pot metal.

[@tag206]

Just like in the coyote mustangs, it might not fail, but if and when it does, you were warned. That type of thing. I have an 89 with 160km, so this isn't meant as an attack. And fun fact, unless the cam is a billet aluminum piece, it'll break being hit on a rock like he did.

[@Hamza-or7jm]

Had a N1 oil pump on me rb25det and after about 2 years, took oil pump off and you can tell there was a little bit of wear between the crank snout and oil pump, I would highly recommend billet oil pump gears especially if you are going to be taking the engine higher than 8k rpm frequently.

[@Nismology33]

I'm happy you changed the oil pump gears at least 💯🙏🏾. With the timing belt do not overtighten it or you will be taking the covers back off. It's really all about feel. But if you think it's too loose it isn't. If you need any suggestions message me 💯💪🏾

[@papahet82]

That oil pressure and temperature fitting is asking for trouble, it is too much weight on that tiny fitting and the vibration cycles will eventually fatigue the pipe until it cracks. Google for an 'oil sensor block' and you will see options...basically a little manifold that you can mount anywhere in the engine bay and run a braided line to that has multiple ports for your sensors. Aeroflow etc make them.

[@jamiebelcher703]

You can dimple the oil gear with a center punch and a drill bit it will help you out alot with weight loss on the gear which also makes it easier for the engine to turn. I have seen this done before and it seems to work well.

[@Villajesse]

Loved the shot of the GTR in piece and a complete Supra in the background ready to make some POWER!

[@l.yoshimura4485]

I used to wrench at a Honda dealership in Hawaii for 5 years. You should use Honda ultra flange sealant for the oil pan instead of Hondabond.

[@Cwomack07]

Good Work gentleman! This was a fun episode to see all the hard work it takes to get the setup in good order.

[@Stigs722]

Tonight on speed academy Pete once again builds the RB

[@mattcaudell9972]

This RB26 series has convinced me to never own a turbo car. Pete has the patience of a saint.

[@exidous6831]

RTV (room temp vulc) needs air to solidify. Heat works as an alternative. Let the RTV sit for a few before you put the pan on.

[@pFbSpecV]

Sheesh!! Thank goodness you did that oil pressure test!!

[@heyhayhay247]

I snapped a similar oil pressure contraption on an R53 Mini. It was fine on the street but blew on track. Luckily, nothing caught fire. It has now been remote mounted for over a year without issue.

[@RJon2006]

So glad to see that fitting seal. Keep up the good work!

[@hk20000]

Timing belt: twist belt with ur fingers on the longest loose edge. I should turn just between 45-90 degrees, closer to 45.

[@christophercasale7961]

For interference fit shrinking, I'm a huge fan of computer duster. Put on some gloves, turn that can upside-down and get it super-cold.

[@NoClassic]

You absolutely want to remote mount that sensor and T assembly. Seen those crack so many times with a lever of that lengh on a brass fitting

[@SamMottaghy]

actually what makes the pump fail is that crank collar for the oil pump is to narrow? the r32s came with a much smaller crankcollar than the r33 and r34. I suppose you have the wider drive since its a r43 build :D Many people also change to the spline drive kit with is much more "secure"... when I had my r32 I changed to the tomei oil pump.

[@elliottb7009]

for sealant, at my hyundai dealership we use threebond grey. i love it. seems to hold up for 100,000 kms plus. comes in a tube you can fit into a caulking gun. fair price too.

[@therealpofo]

When and if you remove the head make sure to swap out the oil feed restrictor to the head. Oil tends to get trapped in the head and this helps prevent it.

[@MyBridgestone24]

“You mean it’s giving you heart burn?!” Literally burst out laughing. Delivery of a comedic god. Came for the cars, stayed for the laughs.

[@tomsgtr1]

I do a lot of engine reseals and I recommend you buy a 30 dollar dispenser for those tube sealants. It's called Valco Cincinnati 71006 Tube-Grip 2.5" Industrial Size Dispenser. It's like 30 dollars. Well worth it.

[@melbertpemberton1203]

I'm on stock oil pump and gear for over 6 years now, running 500hp. as long as you stay off the limiter, no 2 step etc it should be fine. BUT, if you're down there its one of those things that you might as well get done.

[@Beakz_]

I recommend installing some sort of oil snubber before that oil pressure sensor being it appears to be right after the oil filter and likely going to see the pulses from the oil pump. The snubber will dampen the pulses out for the sensor and make it last longer, also wouldn't hurt to maybe run a 90 or 45 off the T fitting.

[@shoominati23]

What you do is get one of those big truck split pins and put it around the base of the tube and use it to roll the tube up like a can opener winder kinda .. For big seals like that you want to screw in 2 or 3 self tapping screws into them and then pull at them with some pliers and walk it out gradually

[@rlscustoms]

Wow man that pre-oiler is such a good idea, it definitely saved you in this case I’m definitely getting one

[@JoseGuzman-oo4zu]

Blew mine apart into several pieces at around 400-450whp luckily didnt lose all oil pressure. Still got scarring on bearings so needed a good cleaning and replaced all bearings.

[@TheMailman]

No failures on my N1 oil pump with my RB30 but I don’t rev her past 8000 and never sits on the limiter. Every rb20, 25, and 26 I always run a boundary gear.

[@bretth3224]

Had a mate with a tomei 2.8 that ended up seizing the engine and destroying the head because of an n1 oil pump that broke, lucky for him the crank didn’t get damaged at all and was good after some new bearings

[@splice247]

its important to know there are many types of "honda bond" the one for the oil pan flange is called Honda ultra flange 2, it comes in a cheese wiz container that is pressurized to make the seals. the liquid honda bond is not make for flange seals. It is to help rubber seals like valve covers seal. Only down side is one can of flange sealer is like $20usd and is one time use. Even if you have leftover it will harden in the tip and make it nearly impossible to use.

[@jyaj007]

This was a big issue on the n1 oil pump... Good thing you went with the billet gear oil

[@Docmctuffin]

I think the rtv is not drying due to its lack of exposure to oxygen in those slots .But good choice on the billet gears . Love your content.

[@_Erogaki]

jeesus that RB is really fighting back 🤣

[@gavinsroczinski105]

Most failing gears are on series 1 and 2 rb25’s bc of the crank collar which was fixed in the neo and rb26. My main concern with this build is oil starvation with the higher flowing oil pump without putting in the head oil feed restrictors or head drain, at sustained high rpms the oil will get stuck in the head and the bottom end will be toast.

[@JordieG8]

Ultra grey is my go to. Love that stuff.

[@keystonerider1308]

Yeeahh! Tommy has quickly become THE gtr guy!

[@Dense147]

For oil pressure fuel pressure etc add a small 1-2” ss line to take the stress off the fitting

[@MochiSuu]

"giving you heartburn" Oh Dave... you hurt my name..... 🤣😂

[@hk20000]

GTR gives me a heartburn should be a t shirt

[@skatehero5]

Your theory is pretty sound on the undercuts of the oil pump gear. Sharp corners are stress points.

[@Diggdigget]

I'm biased. Supra fan first. So the supra will always be the best looking car in my opinion. Not saying I wouldn't take a R34. But I would choose the supra and R34 over anything, including exotics.

[@EmilioShack1982emilioRoman]

My mans said, "refrigerator on wheels" sheeeesh my mans ain't holding back 😂😆😂😆

[@hahaha12345678993]

PT with that burn, does it give you heartburn lol

[@negativeindustrial]

These videos make me so glad I chose the 1JZ-GTE route.

[@TheMirandaMan]

My RB failed with the N1 pump. Good call doing the upgrade.

[@SkylineSiRB]

Been running an N1 oil pump on my RB25DET for 12+ years with plenty of track abuse. Oil pressure still strong

[@tkhayes83]

I normally use long-nose pliers in place of the toothpaste thing and use a similar method for application, place the end of the tube between the pliers then slowly roll the long nose pliers, having bigger handles and wider grip gives you more torque to give a nice smooth line. much easier to control the application rate. there is a little trick to it but once you got it, a piece of cake

[@creativem0nster579]

Rotary Vane engines and air impact wrenches kinda work like that oil pump, pretty interesting. Some vacuum pump motors will have that same style too.

[@Shonfromiowa]

Tommy is the man.

[@jellofuel]

Gotta agree with PT, it's like they always say, you can't spell gitter done! without GTR.