Rear Brake Overhaul and Fluid Change GSF 650 ABS Bandit

[@David-sb7vg]

Anything you do on this model is very much appreciated, thanks Dave.

[@MotoMirius]

Cheers for that. More to come on this as it’s currently in use as my motorway commuter and I need to pull the back end apart and service it. Skäl. David

[@alfredheyen7334]

That's for your help have done bike brakes before long time ago give me confidence to do mine over the winter thank you

[@MotoMirius]

Glad I could help. Good luck with that!

[@swampfeet5660]

was able to replace all the hydraulic fluids on my bike thanks to your videos, thanks mate.

[@MotoMirius]

Great stuff, well done!

[@scrimpmster]

Last winter was the 3rd year that my caliper pins had stuck in the front calipers and the pistons had scratches on them and were also stuck. Had to put the clappers in the oven to get everything out and needed to do a rebuild. Had to order new pistons and pins. I'm now taking the pinks out and cleaning them every month or so as to avoid the same sort of situation (and expense) in the future.

[@MotoMirius]

I replace the pins as a matter of course when I rebuild, it’s just not worth the time and effort getting them out when they stick! Well done on keeping on top of that now. Skäl. David

[@Davidlouis3]

Thanks again done mine today, first time ever doing this brilliant

[@MotoMirius]

Well done. First time but not the last! Skäl. David

[@tinks43]

Always satisfying cleaning them right up 👍🏻 have a great long weekend 😀

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks Dave. That was well overdue! Hope you and your family are enjoying the sun.

[@RRRRefuelRideRace]

Great. Enjoyed your work. Thumbs up.

[@MotoMirius]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@losmenoti]

Gran video si señor ,una pregunta para cambiar el liquido de frenos a la bandit 1250 es igual ay que hacerlo por separado ambas pinzas no ,como siempre se hizo no? No ay nada diferente por llevar sistema abs verdad?

[@MotoMirius]

Gracias. Sí, es muy parecido. Debe tener cuidado de no introducir aire en el sistema porque las tuberías de la unidad ABS pueden crear una trampa para ese aire que será muy difícil de purgar. Los sistemas ABS a veces necesitan purga por presión.

[@jrewillis]

Super helpful video. Thanks mate. Really clearly explained.

[@MotoMirius]

Glad it was of help. Skäl. David

[@Davidlouis3]

Well done really good in-depth video

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks, much appreciated! Skäl David

[@patking8950]

Nicely done! Question, that middle spring that you didn't want to take out...mine popped out while cleaning it and won't go back in without falling out. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@MotoMirius]

Ah, now you know why I didn't want to take mine out. There is no particular technique to it. If you get it seated just right it will stay in. Check it's not broken or bent. Sometimes you need to just reassemble the caliper and rely on gravity until you can get the part in that will hold it in place. Good luck!

[@davidmorris7490]

Alligator grips are good u can find them at any b.q

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. I really need to upgrade some of my tools. Skäl. David

[@lukeperkins4259]

Replacing my rear pads tonight and the little arched piece of metal in the top of the caliper has fallen out. How do I secure it back in? Thanks!

[@MotoMirius]

The tensioner spring plate can fall out if it gets bent. Straighten it back out wherever it's bent and it will clip back into place - you will have to figure that out yourself! Good luck. Skäl David

[@lukeperkins4259]

@@MotoMirius Sorted it cheers David!

[@randomrides]

The only time my back brake actually does anything is when it's on the paddock stand....the rest of the time it's useless!! 😂

[@MotoMirius]

The lever gives you somewhere to rest your toes 😀. Skäl. David

[@JCrozier1]

I'm working on the same caliper. Not having as good of luck as you with it sliding in and out. Did new pads and cleaned up the piston very well. The slider bolts looked rough. When I tighten the 14, it just squashes the rubber and keeps going. Am I missing something? Thanks for any help you can offer.

[@MotoMirius]

Bolts need to be done up tight to torque - if they don't tighten up then they may be stripped or there is another problem - caliper slides on tight bolts. The movement you see is with the piston pushed fully in - if the piston is pushed out then there will be much less movement. If it won't slide easily with the piston in, then there is an issue with the sliding mechanism that you need to clean/ lubricate or replace. Good luck! Skäl David

[@JCrozier1]

They tighten fine. I think there might be something in the front slider bolt that needs attention ( the 14). I need to take apart the sleeve the 12 slides in. It moves, but I'm sure it has all that junk in it like yours. I'll look at it again after work tonight. Thanks so much for the help.

[@MotoMirius]

@@JCrozier1 Good luck with that - they do get covered in brake dust and corrosion - it's why I replace the pins as a matter of course.

[@JCrozier1]

My trip is next weekend. Lead time for new bolts is about 2 weeks. I'm going to have to wire wheel them and see how that does.

[@JCrozier1]

I think I figured it out today. While cleaning, I sprayed the caliper with a lot of brake cleaner. I didn't know how sensitive the rubber parts were, so they bloated up pretty big. Can't even get the 14 mm through the rubber into the slider. New one will be in the post on Monday. Will update if I ever get it right.

[@indianfuturecryptos2525]

Duke 390 rear brake slowly operating.. could you please tell how to use full brake

[@MotoMirius]

I'm not sure what you mean by slowly operating? Do you mean that the brake drags, that it hard to press or something else? Skäl David

[@indianfuturecryptos2525]

@@MotoMirius brake didn't like it, and press the brake pedal the bike is skit.. how to adjust the brake... For good braking

[@MotoMirius]

There is no adjustment. Stock rear brake will easily lock the rear wheel - your skill with your foot is the adjustment. Did you mean skid? If the rear brake isn't working properly then you need to identify where the problem is. If I were to guess, I'd guess you need to clean and check the operation of the rear caliper just like this video. If you want better braking try new sintered pads.

[@indianfuturecryptos2525]

@@MotoMirius thank you for your valuable reply sir..

[@rossi675446]

I did my rear brake like you did I put in New pads and bleed them as well but still they don't work piston comes out but doesn't stay out any thoughts ?

[@MotoMirius]

Piston should only stay out if the lever is pressed, otherwise the pads would drag against the disk. If the pistons fully retract then it suggests that there is a vacuum in the master cylinder so the air bleeds are possibly blocked - try removing the cap to see if it cures the problem. I'm a little unclear otherwise what issue you are having.

[@rossi675446]

Hi Dave Thanks for your reply I'm at a complete loss I've tried everything on my 06 1200s bandit I replaced all brake pads as they were low no issues with the front they work awsome but the rear my God the rear was working fine before I changed and put in new pads I have had the rear caliper off the bike and have inspected the piston and both rubber rings oil ring and dust ring I believe they are called I have bleed them but i went for a wee ride and I pump and pump and pump and they bearly work I cam push the pedal all the way down not easily but I can and hardly any braking happens I really like doing all the work on my bike as you do if I'm unsure I watch your videos I'm lost but I think I might need a mechanic what are your thoughts I even left a weight on the pedal all night and day to release any small air in the system but still the same

[@MotoMirius]

​@@rossi675446 Hi Peter, with the rear, especially on a non ABS bike, my normal process is as follows - remove master cylinder lid - fill. Crack open rear bleed screw and leave open. Pump lever continuously until master cylinder is nearly empty (if you go empty, you have to start again from the beginning), close the rear bleed screw. Refill master cylinder and repeat at least three time. Because the lines are horizontal it's easy for the fluid to slip past an air bubble if you use the traditional technique. I would suggest that next time you simply replace the rubber parts on the caliper, if you've had them and the piston out then this could be the issue. If the lever is soft then there is air, if the lever is hard but the brakes don't work, it may be the rings in the caliper need replacing.

[@rossi675446]

Mate your a bloody legend that did the trick can't thankyou enough as always ill continue to learn from you over the bloody moon

[@MotoMirius]

@@rossi675446 Well done!

[@ducati1100red]

Hi mate can you tell me why I would get any brake fluid from the back brake on this model 650 Suzuki 2006 …… if you can help it would be very appreciated

[@MotoMirius]

Not sure I understand the question - did you skip a word?

[@ducati1100red]

@@MotoMirius yeah sorry mate, my mate, Suzuki 650 has got the ABS brake system but he can’t seem to get bloody work and he said that he doesn’t know why is the fuel. The brake fluid isn’t returning to the rear brake reservoir, so if you got any ideas or if its not working because of some other issue . if you know could you let me know what I can do, many thanks 🙏🏻

[@MotoMirius]

@@ducati1100red Because ABS creates air traps it can cause issues with bleeding and operation. Still not clear on the exact issue here? Do the brakes work? Is this just an issue with bleeding? Are the pads stuck out so there is no flow back to the reservoir?

[@ducati1100red]

@@MotoMirius from what my mate Mel as told me it’s not working that brake fluid is not coming through or the calliper isn’t working….is there know issues with this model ABS ?

[@MotoMirius]

@@ducati1100red I've not seen any ABS issues - but calliper not working or no fluid movement are very different things. The single most common issue is a calliper that is long overdue for cleaning, followed by a failed master cylinder - ABS is a relatively rare cause - I don't recall which system this uses but most ABS units remain outside of the fluid flow until activated, so they don't have any way of blocking the flow. Are you still using the original stock hoses? They are a 4 year replacement cycle so....

[@AustinPetDetective]

Why wouldn't you totally remove the caliper and work on in on a bench ?

[@MotoMirius]

Because there is no need to do so for routine maintenance. If you want to do a full strip and clean where you split the calliper then yes you would do that but it’s not necessary for between service clean ups.

[@neilbuckwildtrx]

No need to change brake fluid..! then no need to disconnect and bleed the system

[@04poppop]

2:52 - Why the caliper moving, on front caliper only moving forward and back without anything else.

[@MotoMirius]

I don’t understand your question.

[@04poppop]

@@MotoMirius I mean pistons brake on front disk are pulling forward and back. But on rear there is moving that part that is seeing in 2:52. I am not mother english speaker, sorry

[@MotoMirius]

No problem, no need to apologise. Front brakes have pistons both side of disk so calliper stays still and pistons push brake pads. Rear has cheaper system with pistons only on one side. Pistons push pad against disk then calliper slides so other pads hit other side of disk.

[@04poppop]

@@MotoMirius Thank you, is there any reason why rear caliper is designed differently compare to front one?

[@MotoMirius]

Front brake does most of the braking so non point in putting an expensive system on the back which will just lock up the rear wheel more easily. Compare the size of disk for same reason.

[@TheMalevolentPath]

Hi what was the tool you used to push the piston back in?

[@MotoMirius]

It’s a brake piston spreader. There is a variety of different tools which do this. Skäl. David

[@TheMalevolentPath]

@@MotoMirius cheers. Probably could have just googled it. Just bought one for 12 quid👌

[@MotoMirius]

Great stuff. Makes life so much easier!