Rear Brake Pad Replacement - any vehicle - do it right

In this tutorial I show you how to change and replace the rear brake pads on cars fitted with rear discs. Save money and do it yourself. Learn how here - it really isn't difficult and you'll get a great sense of achievement for a job well done.
Don't forget if you need any help to use the comments section. Make any requests you have too.
Here are links to some of the tools I used in this video:
Draper 11534 Brake hose clamp
amzn.to/2wW4Nw2
DO NOT use mole grips or other pliers. They can damage the hose walls
22pc caliper wind back kit
amzn.to/2kfFhsz
I would seriously recommend you use a wind back tool. I've 'bodged' it many times in the past without one but since I bought this kit I'm so glad I did. It makes the job just so much easier and you're less likely to rap your knuckles on the hub, lol!!!
Draper One man brake bleed hose
amzn.to/2rYX9eL
I didn’t use it in this video but these make brake bleeding a breeze
Silverline detail brush set £17
amzn.to/2kc97hq
Steel, brass & nylon round brushes
Laser 7mm Hex handle
amzn.to/2IHTKYZ
Hex key for the slider pins
Moly Lithium grease
amzn.to/2KLJ5ND
Use very sparingly on slider pins
Silverline micrometer
amzn.to/2IBLeyC
Making these videos is a “passion” for me. I’m using my 35+ years as an Automotive Engineer and car maintenance DIYer and hope they help people out.
If this video has saved you some time, hassle or money and has been an “enabler” for you and you’d like to show your appreciation by buying me a coffee then follow this link
paypal.me/cyclonecyd
Thank you.

[@CycloneCyd]

Some new information friends. I've been talking with chassis colleagues at work: DO NOT use any copper grease on your brakes. It can't stand the heat!! Use this, it's designed for the job: amzn.to/2naTyZ3 Copper grease loses it's lube properties and causes pads and slide pins to stick leading to inefficient braking and uneven wear. There you go, I've learnt summat new too! Every day is a schoolday.

[@OlivierGandou]

Thank you so much for your videos! I'm doing my rear discs and pads myself for the first time and this is very, very helpful!

[@kidknowledge2020]

Your videos are simply incredible! Love how detailed they are and trust me here you've helped another SAAB owner go that extra mile :)

[@CycloneCyd]

Thank you. That's good to know. 🤘🤘

[@dma6584]

Great step by step and advice to leave blead nipple open when winding back. No wind back tool but long nose pliers clamped with a vise grip. Looking forward to future clips

[@CycloneCyd]

Watch all the way through - there's loads of top tips

[@PaWLO1501]

Great !

[@ollyit]

LEGEND THANKS BRO

[@CycloneCyd]

ollyit Thanks for watching and interacting

[@javaidsadiq5775]

What size wind back tool adaptor (the circle adaptor that connects onto wind back tool) for rear caliper piston? Which number from the universal sets? I have a full set but I'm missing one from previous job so don't want to start this job unless I know I have the correct adaptor plate

[@vajalabadze28]

Hello man! I was changed rear brake pads on 9-3ss and after that the handbrake need more distance to go up and stop car,also the brake pedal needs more power and more distance to make car slower,so i want to know,what would be the problem? I opened the brake fluid reservoir cap to avoid overfull of the fluid caused by new brake pads.

[@cretzubeyou]

Nice video. I like to put some cooper paste on the sliders and between back plate of pads and piston and calliper . Helps with the squeeqs and it will not go an the discs because it s a high temperature grease. Always very little . A thin layer.

[@CycloneCyd]

Whilst it helps in the early stages, soon after the pads have been replaced, once the pads have worn down a bit pad dust and road dirt mix with the grease and form a sticky paste that can cause pads to sieze leading to uneven wear (which in turn reduces braking efficiency). Think about it this way: there isn't an OEM in the world that doesn't mount pads DRY. They've all tested it too. Thanks for watching, hope you found it helpful and that you'll consider subscribing and sharing my channel.

[@CycloneCyd]

I've just re-read your comment and have realised I misinterpreted it originally. I've realised you were talking about copper grease on the backing where the piston pushes. Yes, a very small smear here can help with squealing. Never be tempted to put it on the edges of the backing plate where it runs in the carrier though. That's what causes the pads to seize and uneven wear.

[@ehambley8474]

Another excellent guide Cyd, thank you. I've just done this and replaced the caliper. The caliper is mega tight though on the pins and I can't easily move it on the pins as you were doing. Does this sound ok for a new caliper with new rubber?

[@becausetrains]

I actually just had this trouble today. After cursing at it for four hours, I realized there was corrosion between the caliper eye and the rubber bushing. Pulled the bushing, scraped away about 1mm of corrosion, reinstalled it and the pin slid right into place.

[@gkizzle1265]

Hello cyd I have recently purchased a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t I have a airbag light on and the sid says to cantact dealer have you any knowledge of what this could be I'm going to be removing the seats thanks to watching your video to check the wiring and connections hopefully I find something there and this problem goes away

[@CycloneCyd]

If you suspect the clockspring (rotary coupler) join Saab 93 Owners UKTM on Facebook and search for Dean Marsh - he's just listed one for sale

[@CycloneCyd]

Oh, sweet! If only they were all so easy eh?

[@serateable]

Nice video. im having both TCS and ABS lights on the dash,speedo works fine,fuses 28 and 33, are ok. Car drives fine,i just dont hear the clicking noise when i put key in ignition.any idea? saab 9 3

[@CycloneCyd]

check the continuity of the wiring to the rear wheel speed sensors. the wires often break internally just near where they jump from body to suspension.

[@serateable]

​@@CycloneCyd I checked this morning .ONE sensor was disconnected.All the lights are now gone,steering lock click noise is back to normal. Thanks for your help !

[@un-_-known688]

I done mine on the front so do the front need spinning in or just the back

[@CycloneCyd]

The front pistons can be just pushed in. No need to turn.

[@stevefrancis2365]

This is a silly question, does the handbrake need to be off to wind the piston back in? Thanks for your videos!

[@CycloneCyd]

Not a silly question - if you don't know, you don't know and the best way to learn is to ask. But after all that waffle: YES handbrake OFF. Be sure the levers have released properly on the calipers too in case a cable is "sticky"

[@stevefrancis2365]

Tha k you mate, I’ve just done it and changed the pads all round! Thank you!

[@un-_-known688]

Hiya this was the vid cyd

[@CycloneCyd]

👍👍

[@rezaq1]

I’m sorry but no. Brake pad grease correctly applied is EXACTLY for the pad surfaces to stop them binding or squealing. I have never, ever, heard of not applying grease onto pads for it running onto the disc. I’ve been servicing my cars for over 20 years and I’m sorry but that’s just absolute nonsense.

[@B00M3R888]

Sorry, too much chatter mate. Most only want the guide on HOW to do it, not all reasons behind why you have to do it a certain way.

[@rezaq1]

I’m sorry but no. Brake pad grease correctly applied is EXACTLY for the pad surfaces to stop them binding or squealing. I have never, ever, heard of not applying grease onto pads for it running onto the disc. I’ve been servicing my cars for over 20 years and I’m sorry but that’s just absolute nonsense.