Don't make this WIRING MISTAKE on newer GM Trucks RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) | AnthonyJ350

In this video we go over an important way to route your ground wires if you plan to do the Big 3 or just a simple grounding upgrade on your newer GM truck. You have to make sure you pass your wiring through the current sensor found on the negative cable coming off the battery. This is the design of GM's regulated voltage control for their charging systems. The current sensor allows the charging system to be more accurate and charge the battery as necessary.
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Don't make this WIRING MISTAKE on newer GM Trucks RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) | AnthonyJ350
• Don't make this WIRING...
ANTHONYJ350
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[@baybiboy1]

OMG!!!! THANK YOU! I have been battling my 13' Escalade for 4 weekends straight. I've been doing car audio for 20 yrs, so I'm not new to the scene. But when this Esky stomped me I was about to give up, and rip it all out (literally, frustrated 👿👿👿). I did the big three and all, and still when my auto door locks, windows, even horn operate, the amp, shut off. I was about to take it to the shop or give up and sell my skar rp2000.1. When I passes the big 3 ground wire through the sensor BAM amp stays on. Should have known it was a sensor. My BMW's have the same smart alternator. Your info should be made a sticky on a forum some where. Thanks a bunch!!!!!!😁😁😁😁💯💯💯

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's awesome so glad to hear it helped! This is probably the most relevant feedback so far as to how important it is to pass through the sensor. Thanks for sharing!

[@billyogg8199]

Ll

[@baybiboy1]

Update: My Esky amp still had problems after passing the cable through the sensor. It did help keep my charging voltage steady but, my amp still kicked out. I fought this for 5 weekends straight!!!! 😠 😠 My problem was with preamp voltage to amplifier (skar rp2000) itself. I used a PAC PDLC81 line converter because i kept my stock head unit. To make a story short, the preamp voltage was to high for the amp recommendations. When installing a line converter, make sure the preamp voltage it outputs matches the amplifier you're pushing. Hope this helps someone.

[@gueroburban4989]

Wow just found out about this did the big 3 can I just run negative battery wire next to sensor from battery to chassis I have a 2007 suburban gmt 900??

[@baybiboy1]

@@gueroburban4989 Hey buddy. You have to run it inside the current sensor as it's the only way to measure the voltage / amperage. That way the vehicle can regulate the amount of current draw for the alternator to increase or decrease the output of itself. Hope this helps.

[@toronadogofast7868]

This is a great video. I do a lot of voltage issues on transit coaches. We were having a lot of no starts in the lot. Kept looking at voltage drop and changed all of the positive cables and grounds to the batteries. We were running 300amp 50DN alternators. And was losing 50 amps from the alternator to the batteries. The final fix was a ground from t h e alternator case to the frame ground. Even the there was ground straps from the engine to the frame it wasn't enough. Most of the high breed vehicles monitor the ground side just like this. Don't know how many times the ground side was the issue. Like all of your videoś I have watched. Great job!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you! Definitely ground body to frame front and rear and ground the cylinder heads to frame and body.

[@collinmcballin]

You saved the day man! All these unprofessional forums without a solid answer. This is exactly what I was looking for, regarding my 05 Tahoe with a gnarly sound system. Thanks for the clarity, thanks for staying humble along with the great context of words. So stoked! Can't wait to dial this thing in.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you so much for watching, I'm glad the video helped you. You might also want to watch my Mechman video to help with your sound system. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc

[@AnthonyJ350]

Also cleaning the grounds upgrading will help you as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0 Don't forget to subscribe!

[@collinmcballin]

@Travis Hamler pretty basic. Just 2 batteries, all double grounded with big 3. 1/0 Guage for everything, all OFC of course. ORIGINAL 160a bosch alt LOL. 3 amps of course. -Just ran 1 wire though the sensor. 8ga Powering skar 240rms class a/b for mids and high in the pillars, which also splits off to MiniDSP and signal wiring. 1/0 goes back; splits to nvx 900wrms class d midbass amps for mid drivers..... And other half to nvx 1000 rms class d for my SI-SQL 12". All amps double grounded as well. Stays above 13v all the time, no dimming, no speaker whine etc. Interior and engine bay looks stock, everything hidden hahaha

[@frederickwolford3254]

The best I've seen so far, less talk and show's more troubleshooting and research with out standing results, thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching! Glad the video helped 🙂

[@MikeMcChiken]

It sounds like you got an upgrade alternator and are still using the sensor . I saw this sensor on my first install in this truck . I was wondering what it was for . Glad I found this video . Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad to hear the video helped!

[@sean.g4516]

@@AnthonyJ350 what year models does this apply to?

[@bwizzle4194]

​@sean.g4516 If you look real close at the top of the screen hes pointing out it says "2005 and up."

[@everettluxton8201]

I always thought that I made things more complicated than they should have been,, but I wouldn’t have thought there would be reason for a meter o n the neg. Side to control the voltage to the battery. It makes sense now and I see it as a very simple but brilliant idea Thanks for bringing it to my attention and for making an exceptional production.y

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@03Misael21]

Had this same sensor on my power wire from the alternator to my battery in my 2010 impala. Battery Saver would always engage after like 10 to 20 minutes, especially with climate controls on. I didnt wanna take out any of my factory wiring after doing the Big 3 because I believe in adding on, not replacing. So I ended up picking up a good sensor at a junkyard and spliced the new one into the one I already have. Ran my 0 ga power wire thru the new sensor and I haven't had Battery Saver pop up ever since. Voltage has been great too.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's pretty cool, thanks for sharing! So there are 2 sensors running simultaneously in your car?

[@wrenchaholic_]

Thanks for the info. I've been thinking of doing the same. Been contemplating if it'll work for about a week now.

[@itsMrBRoc]

I have the same exact issue with my 2008 Impala.. I'm gonna do the same thing as you!

[@JeffBryant]

Had just installed a JL 1000 watt amp. I didn't upgrade under the hood. Just ran 4 gauge for the amp. Sounded great and dimmed the hell out of the lights. 3 weeks later I went to roll up the window and my amp shut off. Still had power to it but no output. I returned the amp for another but was waiting to put it in until I did the upgrade. I have a 2011 silverado. Glad I found your vid cause I would have done it wrong and possibly fried another amp.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! You might also need to upgrade the battery.

[@stephenwhite5444]

Did this solve your problem?

[@JeffBryant]

@stephenwhite5444 I shipped the Amp back and got a new one sent to me. I ended up not upgrading the grounds under the hood. Got a capacitor and it has really helped. No more dimming the lights.

[@rl4889]

​@@JeffBryant what size capacitor did you get ? Ty

[@silentbravo]

Firstly, Liked and Subscribed. This was great info. I just put together 2 extra grounds for my truck the other day then came across this video and thought, bahhh now I have to redo them somehow. But I guess not, I have a 2001 GMC Sierra, and it doesn't have this sensor. So it's probably OK to assume from about 99 to 02 Silverado/Sierra (probably the other GM full size vehicles also) that they don't have this RVC. From 2003 and up it's very possible that they introduced it, since that was the new body style update, and some electrical and minor body style changes occurred. I had read about this system before on the NNBS (07-13) trucks since people were complaining that their voltmeters would only be showing around 12v at times, which is normal since this system will not always charge at full 14v+ it will lower down to reduce strain on the accessory belt drive and in turn add that minuscule amount of MPG gain from the lesser load....

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment! Sorry about the late reply, yes with your year of truck you shouldn't have to worry about the RVC system.

[@MrSpike0358]

As I understand only the wires connected to the negative battery post needs to run through the sensor. I added another ground from alternator to frame, and from engine block to body. Everything works fine. The one single ground wire from alternator runs through the sensor to the battery negative. I am also going to add a xs7500 battery to the rear with a isolator, ground it to the frame. This is on a 2011 silverado.

[@AnthonyJ350]

If everything is working as it's suppose to, everything is all good.

[@aaronlawrence4218]

The wires that go through my ring are positive I have two wires one to the starter and one to the alternator post they are the only wires that go through a sensor the ground wires do not. Should I run a ground through that ring?

[@bryonaderhold2009]

I upgraded my stock alternator that was 105 to a 290 amp and the battery from a 700 to an 800 did the big three upgrade also. Haven't had any problems but I still got to hook up my stereo so we'll see from there

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes!

[@matthew3272]

Nice information on the gmt800 trucks. I would have never thought about that regulator when doing the big 3 upgrade. Mechman came in clutch with that info.

[@AnthonyJ350]

matthew3272 I have driven for years with it incorrect. But I think the battery will last longer at least when you do this.

@@AnthonyJ350 whats an 800? there's 1500 light duty and 2500-3500 heavy duty 4500+ commercial

[@AnthonyJ350]

@ GMT-800 is the code for the generation of GM truck

[@HC-oy3jr]

Nice you learned me something gonna try this. Thanks also to save battery and alternator life turn off your running lights that automatically turn on when starting the vehicle. Don't need them on during the day . I have almost 7 years on a cheap AAA battery that was supposed to be temporary, thanks again God bless

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@kinghaku2463]

I have an 02 Sierra. Thanks this really helped me out.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped you!

[@mrme9517]

U REMOVE THE LOOM AND REMOVE THE SENSOR THEN GET BOTH GROUNDS THROUGH THAT SENSOR THEN LOOM AROUND IT TAPE IT REMOUNT GOOD TO GO 😎😎 JUST DON'T GO WITH 0 GAUGE GO 4 STILL A GOOD UPGRADE BUT CAN STILL LOOK FACTORY UTILIZING OE SENSORS PERFORMANCE IS MUCH BETTER BEFORE THE BIG 3 MY 07 AVALANCHE WOULD DROP UNDER 14 BLINKER WOULD BLINK FAST THEN IT RUNS BACK UP BACK TO NORMAL DID IT ALL THE TIME WITH NEW BATTERIES AND ALTS AFTER HAVEN'T HAD THAT AGAIN DEF WORTH THE UPGRADE 🎉🎉

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for sharing

[@mrme9517]

​@AnthonyJ350 ur welcome i did this about a month ago and it's been holding up very well thanks for the video 🎉🎉

[@steves5355]

They also told me the se thing on my 07 classic sierra. All it does it tell the pcm when to charge when there is more current draw. Currently running 320 mechman alt, and traditional big 4. I will be putting stock alt back on for truck and running the 320 stand alone for my stereo system. I also have Custom Electronics PCM bypass with voltage controller, and battery light delete. . They run around 100 shipped. I will be running 2 agm batteries and charging at 14.6-.8 or so. Before knowing about this i had big 3 in place for over a year with zero problems. Currently to put the alt into full charge cycle i run the headlights on and i get a solid14.4,.5. ive been doing this for about 2 months. Cant wait to have both alts on and dedicated to each side of my charging needs..just another thing ive bypassed to get where i needed to be. I only commented to let people know there is a way around all this, and i will continue to run the big 4. Im also on 1/0 power and grounds from sky high car audio which is similar in size to 2/0 welding cable. If that tells you my current draw oncwy set up is complete amd stereo build is finished. Decent set up from gm if you plan to stay stock..but there are ways around if your a basshead like me. Lmao.. Bass on!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@craftchest]

I'm glad I saw this in my feed. I have that same sensor in my trunk. I am about to do upgrades and always wondered what that sensor was. Now I know.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped, thanks for watching!

[@rudycausadias4889]

Great information man this has help me in my fix in my 2005 5.3l you are great man i have do it with your help

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@charlesovalles1646]

Great work. I have a 15 tahoe with big 3 and yes i found the current sensor the hard way. The truck actually starting shedding different devices and got fault messages. I do have an extra battery. Started having a load of starting issues. I had plenty of juice on both batteries and alternator was 14.5 on second battery. But still had issues. Im thinking i need a higher amp alt. Removed battery.big3.and amps. No further issues. Saving for big amp alt.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Look into Mechman alternators kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc

[@Bhdobbs]

charles ovalles bcm needs to be set to accept the dual charging mode

[@8ten820]

I'm working on a GM at the moment and that helped alot. Thanks for that!

[@AnthonyJ350]

8 ten8 Let me know how it goes because I'm trying to understand it more so feedback helps.

[@extrememiami]

That ring is a Hall sensor. It can count amps in, amps out, and voltage. I dont think we have smart alternators. I looked into adding LiFePo4 battery and I could add a second but to be primary id need a real smart alternator. I installed a voltage meter inside the car. Its at 14.6 usually. Are you saying a 2009 GM vehicles alternator will change the voltage or will know if you have lead acid or AGM battery. I thought the hall sensor was to for other stuff not chNging a current on the alternator.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't know if it knows the battery type installed. I've had AGMs in my 2005, no issues.

[@greggarner4477]

I have a 2012 Sierra with a system and Big 6 (dual batteries) and I was wondering what this current clamp was all about when I did the big 3 and aded the extra battery... Guess I have some pondering to do to figure this one out. Thank you so much for the very useful info!! Truly much appreciated!! I have an 8 farad cap in the cab to think about too. This could be interesting

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! I wouldn't bother with the capacitor, you already have 2 batteries. I don't find caps make a difference in practice.

[@greggarner4477]

I get the headlight flicker either way. Only have 2000 watts in Rockford Fosgate amplifiers. But my GOD it sounds good 😊 I have no charging issues at all but don't want to. I have been building car stereo since 1992. Have been a die hard Rockford Fosgate person.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@greggarner4477 Did you upgrade to a Mechman Alternator and ground the back of the cab to frame with ground straps?

[@jayeff4457]

I have 2007 Silverado with a sensor on my factory ground. Thanks for posting.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya I hope this video helps out a bunch of people. I can see shops charging a lot of money to fix this because this is a hard one to diagnose.

[@undividedattention]

You can unhook that sensor. It saved the day on a gmt 900 I was working on that wasn't charging with a freshly rebuilt alternator.

[@AnthonyJ350]

GMT-800s don't like it if you unplug it. Thanks for sharing for your generation truck.

[@famousdev9707]

Guys dimming lights will NEVER completely go away when you're running enough power. Typically big 3 will fix dimming up to 600watts. Big 3 and an agm will fix dimming up to about 1000-1200 watts. Adding secondary batteries can extend this further. And then installing HID or LED headlights that run off a balast will extend it further. This all depends on your alternater. But you will ALWAYS have voltage drop with heavy bass systems. ALWAYS. You can't make power without pulling current, you can't pull current without dropping voltage. And you can't drop voltage without lights dimming. You can only LESSEN the degree to what they dim. But if youre running close to 2000w rms. Voltage drop will ALWAYS be a factor.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@reginaldflowers5456]

Completed today...thank you! May have to change my alternator pulley back to stock one. Charging little past 14 volts

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@shuffleshuffleshuffle]

If the battery negative goes to the engine block then you can run the big 3 off the block instead of the battery

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would still upgrade the battery cable to remove that choke point.

[@KaliBlaz]

so you are saying if i decide do add an accessory fuse box for example, i need to pass the ground wire through this sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can just ground additional devices straight to chassis.

[@jayman2sr]

Love the video. Glad I found it before I did my upgrade. Question, for the ground is it possible to use say the smd post bar to bring all the grounds to a common spot? That way the wire that has to flow through the sensor picks up those too. I plan to use a two batt set up aswell.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Oh ya you can do that. Have 1 thick wire from the neg battery post, go to another distribution post and have your additional ground feed from there.

[@jayman2sr]

Thx for the fast reply...

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@jayman2sr You're welcome

[@jayman2sr]

I have another question. I've done what I said in previous comment and everything seems to be holding well. My question is with the long run to hook up the 2nd battery In rear. Will it throw off the sensor if I added a second shorter ground closer to my aux battery? Or will it still pick up cause of the first wire running up front?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@jayman2sr I don't think so. Police cars do that with 2 batteries the second is added and seems fine. Monitor it after your install.

[@robertmacpeek424]

I believe this would really only apply to 2007.5+ GM fullsize trucks & SUV's with the "passive" style alternators. Meaning the older LS based trucks/SUV's (99-early half 2007) that use a "constant/active" style alt don't even have the current sensor circuit built into them or in the PCM/ECU. If I'm wrong someone please correct me but it is only the later style trucks ('07.5+) that I have seen the fluctuating volt gauge that moves as amperage out put is needed Vs. older "traditional" style alternators that just have a straight/constant out put (only varied by engine RPM). Again, PLEASE correct me if you know otherwise

[@AnthonyJ350]

The truck in the video is a 2005. I believe any truck with electric fans (as far as the GMT-800 platform goes) will have the updated electrical system which would include the newer charging system. So let's say 2005 because 2004 was still a belt driven fan and I don't notice seeing a clamp in those trucks.

[@tysoncurrie7745]

I have a 2004 suburban and added dual electric fans and programmed the pcm to control them and added a oem electric fan wiring harness. My vehicle does not have a charging sensor and I went with a bigger alternator from mechman where you have to get the adapter pigtail from mechman to connect to the alternator wire harness to the alternator then run the blue wire to a 12V ignition source to control when the alternator turns on and off depending on the voltage it sees. Somehow it messed with my pcm and was giving it codes to do with the alternator so I ended up putting the old alternator back on and it is still able to handle everything on my vehicle and I guess the pcm somehow controls the alternator on charging on these years by seeing the voltage it has and lets alternator know without the ground sensor because when I am driving it fluctuates from 14.5v when first starting it to 13.5v after the battery is happy, then changing when driving depending on what's needed at the time of voltage demand going up or down in voltage. Note: with aftermarket fan harness the original alternator can't handle the load because on how they wire the harness. After oem fan harness was installed on my vehicle and the pcm was programmed for fans and now controls the fans the original alternator functions just fine with keeping up with amperage and voltage demands.

[@brianpeterson1675]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge. It's greatly appreciated. However one question I have is, can anyone define "newer GM trucks" for me? Mine is on 2002 and has 75000 miles on it so it still feels new to me.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I want to say this trend started in 2005 these systems being implemented.

[@brianpeterson1675]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank You! You've been a big help!

[@vongillman]

I too have been messing with this 05 Tahoe …+#%^*+== !!!! I’ve replaced everything! I will be changing this ground tomorrow! Thx buddy

[@davidbollier3859]

@@vongillman any update?

[@vongillman]

@@davidbollier3859 after redoing all the grounds and adding one from the alternator to the firewall , I finally figured out it was a bad alternator!!! The old one ( which was rebuilt by a shop I’ve been using for 30 yrs ) was bad. It worked fine till it was warm, then nada !! I went to Oreillys and got a rebuilt. Works perfect 👍

[@kman915]

I wonder how upgrading the alternator on a hybrid would affect it... I want a mechman alt and a new starting battery along with a big 3.

[@AnthonyJ350]

KmanBeatz Just email them, they respond pretty quick

[@alphasaiyan5760]

Could’ve just used a terminal block and hooked all the grounds up to it and then a single 1/0 cable back through the sensor to the battery. Other wise the point is still made. Great video 👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can do that if you want.

[@Mrbulldog301]

I was dealing with no start no crank I removed the ground through the part you are referring o. so if I did the ground repair it would have been NFG thanck you so much I believe the ground was bad now it all makes sense. I still think the neutral safety switch is no good as well but before I look at that I will do the ground properly check he start by bypassing the switch and go from there God Bless and thank you so mutch. I will let you know what happens

[@AnthonyJ350]

What ended up happening with your fix?

[@2-old-Forthischet]

Stranded electrical wire cannot be trusted by just looking at the end portions. Any corrosion that may start in the middle of the wire run is obviously hard to see but can happen causing a high resistance. I found that out when I had a Camaro that wouldn't charge the battery. I went through all the usual things, new battery, alternator, cleaning the connections etc. but the battery still died overnight. Out of frustration, I changed the entire positive run in the engine bay and found out that the positive cable had built in points for other things to access the power wire from the battery to the starter. Once changed, never had a charging problem again. I had to have an OEM positive harness, not an aftermarket one.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Couldn't you put leads on both ends of the wire and see how much resistance is flowing through the cable. I just find it hard for the exposed wire to look good while the inside is completely corroded. You'd think the outside would look bad as well and not look like clean copper.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

@@AnthonyJ350 all I have is an analog and a digital VOM. In such a short distance, even just one strand of wire will show a solid almost zero ohms. Once corrosion starts in a stranded wire, the insulated covering and the ends may look great, but the damage is done on the inside. One way to find out if there is a high resistance in the wire is to apply an electrical load and feel for any warm or hot spots. It was much simpler to just change out the harness. On another vehicle, a worn out connection caused the heater blower to sound like a supercharger. That same worn out connection caused my headlights to glow like the sun before they blew while the engine was running. The current from the alternator didn't quite make it to the battery so the current took the least path of resistance which was the headlights. A shop that specialized in auto electronics found the worn connection and repaired it for $20. Another reason I don't take my vehicles to the dealer.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@2-old-Forthischet Fresh wiring is always good, but you can test resistance quickly with a DMM even on multi strand wire. We check impedance on speakers and factory wiring all the time that has a multiple strand count when mapping out sound systems and doing remote starters, granted there is a device inline we're testing. We'll also measure the frame to see if we can ground anywhere on it that's acceptable.

[@davidbollier3859]

I know I'm late to the game but for my understanding, I have the sensor you mention. My plan is to delete the ground Wire and replace it with the 1/0 wire. Sounds good to me but just checking as that's what the instructions state. Additionally, why would I not want to upgrade my engine to chasis ground? The instructions don't say to but I don't understand why if I'm upgrading the charge and battery ground wire? Thank you for making this video. I'm currently pushing 1800 amps for my stereo and hope this will give me better performance

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's correct you can replace the original and fit 0 gauge through the sensor. You can also upgrade your engine to chassis ground if you would like.

[@davidbollier3859]

@@AnthonyJ350 wow! Super fast response. Great job keeping this thread alive. Thank you again!

[@psyfertech]

i have a 2016 gmc sierra and it has the same system and it threw me for a loop i thought there was an issue with my charging system but im wondering if a better way to do this would be to run all of your grounds to one point say a distribution block and then run 1 0 guage or a double 0 guage from the negative post of the battery and through the rvc ammeter then to distro block that way theres no way for any current to bypass it, i think this is what i will do because i still need to run a ground to the alternator and as it is now i have no more room in the rvc ammeter to fit any more cable through it currently has a 0 guage and the factory engine ground going through it lol, i have read that unplugging the ammeter will allow it to constantly charge at full blast but some people say its not good because it can over charge the batteries, i think i will try the distribution block and see how it goes if there is any improvement at all, so far it seems to fluctuate but i have noticed that when my headlights are on it always stays close to 14volts, ive upgraded my car stereo substantially thats why i need the extra juice ive already added a second battery its the xsd5100 and that has made a big difference its just the way the alternator charges im not too happy with because with bass you really want to keep a constant nice voltage but it likes to stay around 12.6 to 13 sometimes which i dont like

[@AnthonyJ350]

Try it out and let us know your results.

[@ReapWhatYouSow]

Did you get the distribution block for the grounds?

[@josephmorales3728]

I am a Tech for Chevrolet Lol. One of the problem that I see in the Dealer was aftermarket radio . Before you install one aftermarket aks the Dealer The People that installs aftermarket They don’t know how the ECM work and modules . When I desconec the after market radio . Chicken got out the alternator is working perfect . Have a good day .

[@AnthonyJ350]

It also depends on what modules you install to integrate. We install head units on 2015 and up GM full size trucks all the time and we communicate with the CANBUS system to give vehicle information. People in my area ask dealerships for updates and more functionality and the dealerships don't want to figure out a solution or the manufacturer stops supporting the product so they actually refer our shop.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Just some feedback the Human Interface Machine in the new GM trucks fails a lot and I've seen trucks come into our shop untouched by anyone with issues. Way overly complicated of a design for wiring and modules.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Someone just asked a question and I figured you'd know. Do the Duramaxs come equipped with a RVC system? If they do how is the second battery wired to monitor current flow? We're trying to figure out how the diesels are setup to modify another system.

[@comaradelee]

thank you. mine has one, so glad i watched it before doing big 3. it would be a waste of money. from the philippines. btw, u have 4ga in the sensor, the first is connected to the alternator ground, what is connected to the 2nd? u did not explain in the video

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! I have another one going to the frame. Don't forget to subscribe!

[@sjquilicot]

Hey Chris!

[@Mrbulldog301]

anyway thankyou because I never knew about that monitoring harness. I would have just avoided it so great thing to know god less.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped!

[@TheDoozie43]

Is this video before you upgraded alternators and went to an adjustable pcm? Did you leave the sensor hooked up once you made the upgrades?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I didn't modify the PCM at all. Just installed a Mechman and left the sensor intact.

[@TheDoozie43]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks man!

[@justinfoster6719]

Anyway I can see how you did your loft in your shop. I got the same size building I think. I see it in the background the steps From time to time

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you email me I can send you some pictures.

[@johnebuckland]

Interesting. Lucky my Epica didnt have any sensors like that on or near any of the cables.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya this seems to be specific to the full size half ton trucks.

[@leonardtaylor1904]

Luck you,some of us,have to put up,with this kind of,BULL SHIT.

[@DetrellOfATL]

Thanks for the info. Question for you or anyone looking at this? My voltage is good around 14.6V but my lights flicker, is there any way to fix this problem with your experience. TIA.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Convert the headlights to LED and the marker lights as well. Also upgrade the grounds on the truck to help.

[@jeremywhite1251]

im having an issue i believe this sensor is the problem. Since I have 3 grounds can i put the sensor over my positive? I have a 12 chevy impala and ive seen videos with their sensors on the positve. Just not sure

[@AnthonyJ350]

It probably would work but I've never tried it. It's just electrons at the end of the day. Try it, if it doesn't work clamp it back on to negative. Is your sensor the one that goes around the wire or bolts to the terminal?

[@tylerdirden3416]

Another great vid for my 99 230k miled Z-71 la, thx and keep em coming!!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks, don't worry we have a lot of GM truck videos.

[@briansydnes1711]

the sensor is used by BCM and ECM to regulate voltage, charge current, battery state of charge. Without the sensor monitoring all current in and out of the battery, the system will likely under charge or over charge the battery. My 2012 chevy has a bad sensor and thinks the battery is under-charged, and consequently over charges the battery. A new exide battery had to be replaced after only two months.

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you unplug the sensor it should default to 13.5 volts.

[@briansydnes1711]

I disconnected the connector at the alternator, and it defaulted to the internal regulator, but it triggered the money light. I assume the BCM will see open circuit with the sensor and also trigger the money light. I had it to the dealer for a full inspection prior to this. They do not check voltage or test battery under load, only did a visual inspection. What a crock. At least the Midas, Car-X shops will do a load test. Battery died within a month, the new battery had to be replaced withing two months. They dont sell the sensor alone, need to purchase the negative battery cable assembly. Will try disconnecting the current sensor. I use an UltraGuage and can monitor voltage easily when I drive.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@briansydnes1711 Ya that will just be a temporary fix until you can get a new sensor. Does Dorman make one?

[@briansydnes1711]

Not that I have found. I disconnected it, no change, still charging a fully charged battery. No money light either. the service manual says it should trigger a code if the signal is out of spec. The manual says that if the sensor fails, it will cause a charge condition all the time which is what I'm seeing. Tested BCM supply voltage (5.1v), low reference ground signal is good, and it is putting out a 124Hz signal. Voltage output is only 2.6v, only varies .5v when key on, no start or when running with full electrical load. Only thing to check is for high resistance or open on signal wire going back to BCM

[@sarahthompson6240]

Great video. I have this same issue with my F150. I plan on disconnecting the factory grounds and placing all my wires on a central grounding point before the Hall effect sensor and running a 1/0 from this point, through the sensor, and to my battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how that works out!

[@sarahthompson6240]

I was able to squeeze the 1/0 through the sensor, next to existing factory grounds, using some dishsoap. The other method would’ve worked as well. As long as the primary ground has an ampacity large enough to handle the sum of all the grounds you’d be good to go.

[@seangowan7441]

Can I put a 0 gauge wire through the RVC loop sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can make it fit, for sure.

[@carlossr01]

How come your truck reads Kilometers on the speedometer?? Just curious and thanks for the great video keep up..

[@AnthonyJ350]

Oh that's because I'm in Canada. All our stuff is metric here.

[@carlossr01]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you for the fast response.

[@360ModsandHacks]

Thank you dude! I have a Tahoe and just installed 2 Mechman alts with 2 AGM batteries in the front and 4 in the rear and this variable voltage was pissing me off after installing all this nice equipment.

[@AnthonyJ350]

At least it gave you an idea what's going on

[@DJ-TBW]

Dual battery setup on 07-13 tahoe 5.3 how did you this

[@jiujitsuforall8627]

Can you clear something up for me? You mention "4-gauge" and "0" gauge cable, is this "4 AWG" welding cable OR 4/0? And is "0" gauge "1/0" welding cable? Thnx, love your informative vids!!! I'm planning on upgrading my wires and will use your vid as my guide.

[@AnthonyJ350]

4 AWG, basically the thicker you go you can't go wrong. Just fitting that thickness of the wire may be a challenge.

[@chriswhite4596]

Badass Video, great Description!!!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@thatvegashighrisedude2757]

I don't see this in my truck , would this be the reason why my dash says battery not charging ? I've checked my alternator , working good .

[@AnthonyJ350]

What year is your truck?

[@lylegoodluck]

Would I only need the cable that goes from the negative terminal to the block go through that sensor? Can I still have a cable from the block to the frame and another to the alt case to the cab?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes that's correct. Only wiring going to the battery goes through the sensor. Motor to frame does not need to.

[@freebird03271968]

Ill have to look on my 04 silverado. I think that may he my parasitic draw problem. Im Goin thru batteries. I did 2 of the big 3 upgrade. Not sure now if I did them rite. My truck is in the shop rite now but I will be looking into this quick.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes.

[@freebird03271968]

@@AnthonyJ350 well I dont have the sensor on my truck. So what exactly is the big 3? Or 4? I know the positive goes to the battery. But what about the power block? Thats how it came from factory. The positive wire from the battery runs down to it and on toward the starter. Do I need to replace the positive wire to the starter to with bigger wire? And the negatives? Battery to block? Block to chassis? Battery to body? Im confused because I've seen so many different ways but grounded is grounded, right? So it shouldn't matter? Help!

[@freebird03271968]

@@AnthonyJ350 heard different stories on the big 3 upgrade so I went from the neg side of the battery to the body,chassis and motor. Hope thats sufficient. Plus the alternator wire with a 250 amp fuse.

[@rickyrodriguez9057]

I had two ground wires running through the current sensor then upgrading the alternator with 0 gauge but it wont fit and i get the battery saver activated what should i do all three grounds wont fit through there… pls help

[@AnthonyJ350]

What's the output of the new alternator?

[@rickyrodriguez9057]

@@AnthonyJ350 it’s around 14.8…but after a awhile driving the truck i get a “battery saver active” message but the voltage is around there doesn’t drop and yesterday i got the red battery icon come on and then went away

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@rickyrodriguez9057 I would either just run 0 gauge through the sensor or two 4 gauge with the factory wiring.

[@barrysoileau5319]

??Hmmm....i noticed something similar on my 2012 f150. Found somewhere where this ring looking thing on my negative battery wire is part of fords battery monitoring or management system. Wonder if it's the same as with this post about the gm's.

[@AnthonyJ350]

It would be very similar. Most manufacturers seem to be doing something like this.

[@helloworld5266]

I have a 2015 Silverado 2500LT, I'm doing Big 3 , 320Amp Irragi alternator , and second battery... I plan to run the following: 1. Power from Stock Battery to Power of Second Battery 2. Ground from Stock Battery to Second Battery. 3. Power from alternator to Stock battery. Ground from Alternator to frame. 4. Ground from alternator to body. ALL 1/0 Gauge and Fused in proper locations. Which of these wires needs ran through the sensor? And do you see any issues with this setup? I'm doing this work this week.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Everything looks good. I think you covered everything and it'll will be a better setup than most people with sound systems have. You just need to get the ground from the main battery through the sensor, since you have everything daisy chaining from the main battery, you should be good. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2S0gnSqpMyKapI I'd like to know how your system goes after you're done.

[@chillinrodzilla]

Thanks bro been looking for this still looking for a way to run 0 Guage though. What do you think about running 1 - 0 thru the sensor to a distribution block then running others from there??

[@AnthonyJ350]

That makes a lot of sense. I would do that. You're maxing out the sensor capacity as far as what fits. Definitely don't modify the sensor.

[@wallace7108]

Does the sensor go over the ground wire

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's correct, the main ground from the battery passes through it.

[@Mr.Hoskin]

I have a 2017 and i did a big 3 with JS Alterator. After driving long distances my voltage drops to 12.8. Is that normal?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I've seen my truck do that. When that happens, try turning on the lights. See if it goes back up to 14.5 volts.

[@Mr.Hoskin]

@@AnthonyJ350 It does. But what does it mean when the voltage drops like that? And will my sound system be affected? I have a 370amp alternator, new AGM 1000 amp battery, 2,500watt amp for subs.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Mr.Hoskin It's not ideal on a big sound systems. An external voltage regulator would be ideal. Secondary battery is also a good idea.

[@rafaelmartinez3985]

So I should just add a 0g from neg post through the sensor to the alternator? Leaving existing negatives ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can fit everything through you can do that.

[@mossiahgaming8528]

What about running the power thru the fuse block instead of directly to the alt

[@AnthonyJ350]

You could but then you have a bottleneck. If you run a high output alternator the factory wire is not thick enough.

[@bull5919]

Well finally got to mine I have a 2013 Silverado battery on passenger side I can only fit one 1awg wire through my battery sensor so do I chose the motor or the frame

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'd go frame because you can add a ground from frame to motor after

[@christinaknight5569]

Thanks man great information and video

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks!

[@BABO437]

My 2004 Yukon don’t have that sensor what can I do ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Nothing to worry about. Just upgrade the grounds.

[@seangowan7441]

My 2018 Chevy Malibu has the battery current sensor built-in to the negative terminal, one peice. Do I hook up my added ground to the same spot my stock ground wire is on the sensor. I was told by my mechanic not to do that. Do I need to hook it up the same spot as my stock ground wire on the sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can you replace the wire with a thicker one?

[@JPaupst]

Would this apply if I'm wiring in a winch?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't think it's a huge deal, you can ground it right at chassis

[@dadokta]

Just upgraded to a 250amp js altenator. Did the big 3. For the ground sensor you are referring to is there a post to ground....I got lost when you said pass through and I didn't see how they were connected to the sensor in the video.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I go over details like that better in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc If you add a ground wire from the mounting bolt for the alternator or even just add a cable to the accessory bracket for the drive belt system, that will help it flow a lot. Also upgrade ground from cable to chassis

[@dadokta]

@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the response. Unfortunately I can't find the clamp on my 2003 avalanche 1500. Unless it's inside this box under the battery. The existing factory grounds from battery don't pass through anything. They go straight to the Chassie and engine block....

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dadokta 2003 you shouldn't have to worry about it. I believe it was implemented in 2005. Does your truck have belt drive cooling fans or electric?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dadokta This video should help with grounds on that truck to avoid future problems kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@dadokta]

@AnthonyJ350 belt driven.

[@buddyrebel_Garcia]

I’m doing the big 3 on my 2005 Hummer H2, it doesn’t have the ground sensor. On my case what do I need to do?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did I address this question already or was it someone else? Not sure if your question double posted.

[@buddyrebel_Garcia]

@@AnthonyJ350 it was probably a double post. But yes you answered my question. I’m actually doing the big 3 tomorrow.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@buddyrebel_Garcia Right on, let me know how it goes!

[@buddyrebel_Garcia]

@@AnthonyJ350 will do. Thanks

[@mrarikara975]

So i have same problem i have 08 gmc acadia and 5k system mechman 320 and when im playen hard my alt will not charge it will drop to 9v. However that ring censor is on pos+ side of my gm not ground. Should i switch to ground side????

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did someone move it to the positive side?

[@mrarikara975]

@@AnthonyJ350 no thats factory

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@mrarikara975 I would leave it

[@gregorykusiak5424]

How can we determine which GM models include these sensors? If it’s on an impala, it might be on my rendezvous

[@AnthonyJ350]

Gregory Kusiak You just look at the negative terminal and see if the sensor is there.

[@kentdiimmel]

I have been going through your videos trying to find something to help my issue. 2001 chevy 1500 5.3 engine. Ive been running a sub amp and 4 cuannel amp for 3 years with no issues until now. All of a sudden the Sub amp turns on but the 4 channel won't come on unless sub amp is disconnected from the circuit. New battery, new 4 channel amp. I have 12 volts at the remote wire but only 7 volts on the main power wire. Tried wiring the amps directly to the battery (no inline fuse just for testing) and still only 7 volts. If I disconnect the positive cable from the circuit I have 12 volts on that positive cable. As soon as I connect it back to the distribution block I'm back to having a voltage drop. Any advice would be much appreciated.

[@AnthonyJ350]

What if you take the distribution block out of the equation?

[@jewllake]

what year is your truck? 05? GM started this in 05, I believe, at least in the GM trucks. I don't remember seeing this in a 04 truck i had. My 06 Yukon, and 06 Monte Carlo have this. I did see one GM car where a shop replaced the negative cable and did not run it through that amperage clamp, and it set off a "check charging system" on the DIC. The battery would also run down.

[@AnthonyJ350]

My truck is an '05. I believe you're right, if you read the article in the description they say 2005 and I believe Mechman also states 2005+ for this current sensor. Ya on that Monte Carlo, it saw no amperage flowing through the system so it basically thought everything was o.k. and didn't need to charge the battery.

[@Quintanater]

Ima till confused. 2018 GMC Sierra. Can’t you run a 0awg wire through sensor to distribution block to all the normal grounds? Would this not work? I just want to do my truck right but have spent two weeks trying to figure out the right way before I start

[@AnthonyJ350]

You could do it that way. As long as the battery negative cable goes through the sensor. You just don't want to bypass the sensor if you can help it.

[@crankybastid2197]

I am adding a secondary battery to a 2019 2500hd gas engine truck. Would you recommend running the ground wire (2awg) from the secondary battery through the sensor and to the main battery? I am adding a 150amp breaker and isolator to the power wire. Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can run it through the sensor it would be ideal.

[@dart760]

So I have 04 and not check if it has that thing. But my voltage in the guahe cluster always goes below 14. I want to upgrade the big 3 with 0 gig. What did you use to use the battery post? You have a type list of everything and how much length etc? Thx

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would get a Northstar battery with dual battery posts so you can attach everything on top easily.

[@bertdawgy98]

Did you upgrade the wires on the positive junction?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I did on my truck

[@bertdawgy98]

Bolt that holds all the cables in it was just way too far gone. I just left it as is, and will probably zip tie the old alternator charge wire down until I can get it out. I did the big 3 and a new ground for engine to frame and added a car body ground to the battery negative 🤙🏽

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@bertdawgy98 How did it start and everything work after?

[@bertdawgy98]

I’ll let you know in about an hour or two 😂

[@chadcawley8112]

Question about that sensor could not really see it so what your say wire ground through that sensor? There’s post to make that connection? Thanks in advance

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's the main ground cable.

[@qm2092]

I wonder how many miles per gallon this current sensor saves by just topping off the battery voltage

[@AnthonyJ350]

Probably very small but in theory everything lasts longer. And there are still a lot of GMT800 platform trucks still on the road. RVC is common across most modern vehicles.

[@daddyrooster88]

I cant fit the 0 gauge and the factory grounds through the sensor. So im going to remove the engine ground pull it out of the sensor and bolt it back where it was. Then i can run my 0 gauge through the sensor to the alternator bolt like Mechman wants. I am also running a 0 gauge from positive battery to positive alternator bolt.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes.

[@daddyrooster88]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok 👌

[@MIKEMOE99]

Would it be possible to tap off & connect a second sensor for a second battery? My wires are too thick to pass through one.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You would probably have to get an aftermarket alternator with an external voltage regulator.

[@dannylsx]

what if i only have 0 gauge where do i ground it to ? since i could only fit 1 wire should i ground batt to frame or batt to body?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can run the ground to frame. From there you can run another cable from the engine and body and attach them to the same point on the frame.

[@gerardohtx207]

So it’s ok if I put 2 4ga ground wires going through the ring on the sensor?? Thanks!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's what I did and have been running a Mechman alternator for a little bit now. No issues.

[@lucky13sss10]

Thank you for this

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad to hear you liked the info

[@LoneWolfSnowplowing]

I would assume a Sierra 2500 6.0 with 2 batteries has 2 current sensors, 1 per battery

[@AnthonyJ350]

What year? Did it have 2 batteries from factory? I've seen a lot of heavy duty trucks not have the RVC system.

[@crazyorwhat]

It’s hard to see with the flash but is your instrument bezel chrome?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I swapped it out with a unit from an Escalade and had it programmed to the truck kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3WZf3tsgbGmnJo

[@darinmoorman1872]

So it would be ok to run 0 gage oversized grounded threw the rvc to alternator grounded just 1 run or would it be better to run 2 4 gage threw rvc to different points

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can run 0 gauge through all good.

[@darinmoorman1872]

Thanks for your reply I have one more question right now there is 2 grounds running threw the rvc and my truck having voltage problem doing the big 2 would help that voltage out some at least right it would see more current I plan on up grading everything amp never cuts off but it does not get enough power will doing this help

[@darinmoorman1872]

The grounds right now look like 6 @ 8 gage

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@darinmoorman1872 If you replace you'll have to attach to the 0 gauge or just have them on the frame and use the frame as a distribution center.

[@darinmoorman1872]

I'm sorry new to all this can you explain a lil better please

[@richardott1615]

Quick question, I have a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500.. I cannot for the life of me find this RVC. Has this been relocated for the newest gen chevys/gmcs? Thinking of skipping the entire big 3 because I cannot locate the sensor, and I’m unsure if it’s even there on this generation. When looking up a tutorial for the 2019 Silverado the gentleman doesn’t mention anything about the RVC for his. Just wondering if it’s something that has changed in the past 1-2 years? Thank for your time

[@AnthonyJ350]

I haven't had a chance to really analyze the newest trucks. You can upgrade the ground and just do one cable off the negative terminal. If it doesn't like it, take it off. Going from cab and motor to chassis will always help. Even the back of the cab to chassis helps. And bed to chassis as well.

[@Denali24]

Hello I have a 2012 GMC Acadia and installed a Mechman 370A but I am confused about this RVC / Battery current sensor I can not find any information regarding it that pertains to my specific vehicle? Any advise and help will be so much appreciated? Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

You just need to make sure that when you upgrade the ground from the negative battery terminal that you run it through the clamp meter.

[@DanielPedraza-m4b]

So if I run 0 gauge, all I have to do is run (1) 0 gauge wire from the battery through the sensor- to the block?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yup, any ground cable attached to the battery should go through the sensor.

[@FrozT99]

What about if we're doing a dual battery application?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@FrozT99 We have done an emergency vehicle application, running the ground for the secondary battery to the engine.

[@DanielPedraza-m4b]

@@AnthonyJ350 correct me if I’m wrong so if I’m doing the big 3 on my 05 Sierra with that sensor on the ground I need 1 power wire from alternator to battery 1 ground from battery through the sensor to the block Am I missing something else?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@DanielPedraza-m4b You can upgrade ground from engine to chassis and body to chassis. Those don't need to go through the sensor.

[@TTimpreza]

OK I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 6.0L (Ly6) and for the life of me I can not find the Load Sensor on my Truck, I do have 2 batteries in the truck but I added an extra Battery later on after purchasing the truck, My problem is that I can not find the sensor or the 3 pin connector, was there a model that did not have the sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I believe heavy duty trucks don't use one so you shouldn't have to worry about it. What are you doing to the truck?

[@BoOmBaMan]

That's quite a difference in application now that your voltage is accounted for.

[@AnthonyJ350]

thizzface Ya I'm going to monitor the truck's electrical closely to see if there's any difference.

[@riog1300]

My 2002 Chevy Silverado and it stalls out very randomly sometimes not starting right back up or starts in run funny do you think it could be a ground wire

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would definitely upgrade all the grounds to start. Focus on the 2 thin gauge grounds on the back of the engine block under the intake manifold.

[@FERNIE801]

So if I got a high output alt externally regulated ..... do I go through that sensor or go around?????

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would call Mechman and see what they suggest for that setup.

[@jesusorlandovillalobosenci7563]

thank you subbed and like!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching!

[@plugger4945]

Your link for the wiring kit does NOT FUNCTION!

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's not a link, it's just a hashtag so the video can be searched. Here's a video kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5y6dKSJm9dpn8k

[@noahkb80]

I've got an 08 5.3. I just found that recently and couldn't figure out what it was. I only have one battery, on passenger side , and that ring is around the ground wire off the battery but it just slides freely where ever it wants. Then it just goes off and into the same feed of wires my mass air flow sensor does. Should it be secured somewhere? I found it way down low and moved it up some

[@AnthonyJ350]

It should be secured, you don't want it flopping around while driving.

[@noahkb80]

@@AnthonyJ350 right. This could be the phantom I've been chasing. Truck always cranks to 14.5 - .8. Running the AC, itll be down to 12.5 in a couple minutes and it ain't coming back up. I've got HIDs , roughly 2000w system, LED fogs. Thats basically the majority of my draws. Nothing else seems to effect it like the ac does. 13.5 -13.9 is where it cruises at once its settled in as long as not running the air. I can turn on tow/haul and itll stand my guage back upright and give me 1 and 1/4 volt . That said, 👆 that is just the present situation. Seems to randomly change its habits. Before this latest iteration of is split personality, it was dropping to 12.5 no matter what happened. Before that it would sit at 14.4 for a long time before slowing going down. I havent been able to figure out what the deal was. About to do my big3 (4), and I've also been cleaning up under my hood. Replacing heater hose, re looming things, etc. And I've been all over that area. So im thinking this could be my issue. Now I just need to find where it goes. Has a pin on the side of clip to slide in a hole but no hole found. Id just assume delete it if possible

[@daddyrooster88]

The negative zero gauge run from my battery to the alternator ground is 4ft long . Do you think its worth it to make it fit through the sensor

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can, yes.

[@daddyrooster88]

Yeah i did not run it through the sensor because i couldnt get it to fit along with the stock grounds and had problems with voltage fluctuating.