Relocating Engine for Weight & Balance | Improving Weight Distribution 1965 Mustang

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We are chasing improvement on the handling capabilities on our classic mustang, we have already upgraded our front suspension set up. Now we focus on the weight distribution of this car, pushing the power train backwards to its limit. This will help our center of gravity, the goal is to get as close as we can to the 50/50 weight distribution.
Some people have also asked if I have a wishlist, so here you go!
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Angel Robles
P.O. Box 27794
Tucson AZ 85726
Angel Robles
1501 S Cherrybell Strav
#27794
Tucson, AZ 85726

[@thekatmann9730]

Nice work RP! I love the fact that you're just getting in there and 'doing'!! Trial and error.. Love the 'shout-out'.. haha Thanks! Come on folks.. I think Angel is only about 75 bucks away from a fancy new floor jack. Send our boy a little Christmas cheer!

[@rookie__pilot]

🤘🏼🤘🏼

[@anthonyreiss180]

You should call your shop "the mustang corral"

[@rookie__pilot]

The Stable maybe? 🤔

[@Andrew-jh5uv]

Angel double wishies on front and engine behind axle line will be a weapon👏👏

[@rookie__pilot]

Thats what im sayin!!

[@1944chevytruck]

take transmission off to install.... ... good job!

[@rookie__pilot]

Simple answer..i think that would work 😂

[@flightlessboid]

Just heard, congrats to you and your fiancee's new gig at Sarah-n-Tune. If your logo is any preview the merchandise is going to shine.

[@67mustangcouperestoration]

Widening the tab spacing by adding a single removable 1/2” thick flat spacer on the front side of each rubber mount (inside the front tab) would give you some much needed clearance, because the spacers could be slid out when the bolt is removed. The extra 1/2” of space would allow for forward or rearward movement of the engine when raising or lowering it with the hoist, because you have to remember that the hoist arm moves in an arc, which moves the motor towards or away from you when it’s raised or lowered. This would also allow you to relocate the front tab onto the cross member, which would make welding it easier. You’d just have to trim the front tabs again.

[@danielpage8249]

Great content, have Sarah plug you channel continuously, good luck!

[@justingiese6544]

Add a thin washer between the tab and rubber mount. Those tabs will warp when you burn them in. I used similar tabs for my t56 transmission crossmember. Slides in easily now. The bolt with tighten the tabs inwards. You can still box the top or bottom about halfway

[@kevinbrown1368]

Some suggestions - 1) you didn't need to have the motor mount bolts as tight as you did. this made it harder to remove the engine and to reinstall it. A little slack can be drawn tight by the bolts later, 2) when you reinstall, don't have the motor mounts bolted to the engine. Put the engine in place, then install the engine side of the mount. 3) Did you test fit the starter? It look's like the remaining space might be tight?

[@rookie__pilot]

Thanks! Ill put atleast a washer inside the bracket to leave a little slack. And i have not yet put the starter!! I dont have one so ill have to wait..

[@trueadrn]

1st!!!! Whoo hoo GLUE FACTORY!!!!!

[@rookie__pilot]

Ayee!!! 🤘🏼👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@jeffosim8789]

I agree with other posters you need some clearance between the frame mount brackets and the engine mount bushings so they have room to clear. So you will need to widen the spacing between the frame tabs and use spacers like also suggested. And you could mount the engine mounts to the frame tabs as you said also then bolt to engine when dropped in. Doing both will give you options and clearance

[@rennkafer13]

Hah Angel, when you were pulling the engine out after tacking I was sitting here going "nooooooooo pull the mounts off first". You got it figured out though. So if I were doing this, I'd drop the engine back in, get everything lined up correctly (as both tabs on the side you showed had moved and the other side probably did too), re-tack them if needed, then unbolt the mount at the engine and lift the engine back out. For welding it up fully, make a spacer that goes between the tabs where the mount bolt goes, same width as the mount (any cheap pipe that fits around the bolt, stack of washers, etc will work), and bolt it up tight. That will keep the tabs from moving much when they're welded (and they WILL move). That will help keep things in the alignment you originally had. One final thing, for the engine leveler I'd get a piece of 1/4" plate and cut/drill it to fit under the top two bellhousing bolts (probably need some spacers to clear the bellhousing ribs, washers will work), then get an exhaust hanger and weld the U-bolt part to the front side of your plate (making sure the top of the "U" is centered between the bolts). then just use one chain down to it in the back. A 3 point pick like that is actually easier to level both directions. Sorry for writing a book... but I hope it helps.

[@rookie__pilot]

No need to be sorry! This helps a lot, i really like the idea of using a fabbed up plate on the bellhousing. Everything is a big learning curve so any tips are greatly appreciated!

[@rennkafer13]

@rookie__pilot ya, it's definitely a steep curve too. You're doing great though!

[@charliebrown1828]

Mash the front end back as well. You can call it a Pugstang.

[@rookie__pilot]

Shorten the fenders also 😂

[@jeffosim8789]

You can bolt to the head bolt threads that the intake bolts too and that should be forward of the firewall lip. Also to make easier clearance getting the motor past the front radiator support let air out of the front tires to drop the front end, something I have done in the past 😎

[@cordish25]

Maybe some temporary washers at the bushings for a spacer, so its not to tight after painting....could also use a solid spacer to have a wider gap for wiggle room

[@rookie__pilot]

Didnt think about that, thanks!

[@cordish25]

@@rookie__pilot always look forward to you videos...reminds me of my past projects

[@TxStang]

move the front bracket forward 1/2 inch and use a 1/2" spacer to take up the gap when you bolt in the engine mount . That will give a loose fit once you take out the bolt and spacer letting the egine come out freely

[@rookie__pilot]

Thanks will be using this next video!

[@BobGeogeo]

Whenever you mention the Mustang II suspension, I remember the one I learned to drive in and later owned in the '80s... (Thanks Dad). The steering was way over boosted.

[@kirktruman6707]

So Angel you moved the engine back 5 inches now it does not sit on the cross member and the frame sits back further what happens now does it actually fit ?.

[@rookie__pilot]

The frame stays the same, the brackets moved back while still being on the reinforced area, i think it should be fine!

[@kirktruman6707]

@@rookie__pilot oh ok. Looking forward to the new video. Oh yes before I forget, the headlamp that I won I love that thing

[@robertlugo3388]

$20 and a 12 pack for the headers?

[@rookie__pilot]

In terms of $ thats pretty close 😂

[@deopersad2915]

Getting more done slowly but it's good to get it right 😊👍🏽 Merry Christmas and happy New year to you and your family 🎁🎄🎊🎈

[@barackmycat9448]

Patience will make this work!

[@rookie__pilot]

Yes!

[@bobuncle8704]

I like what you’re doing. I think you have the right of it. Bolt the mount into the bracket first, then install the engine. Unless you want to chop more of the firewall.

[@rookie__pilot]

Yes i agree!!

[@garyworokevich2524]

Great video Angel. Sitting on the edge of my seat. I like your problem solving process.

[@rookie__pilot]

Thanks Gary!

[@robertlugo3388]

Attach on the head for the front chains. That will keep the block level. Then you can attach to the trans, or some other creative way, for the rear. Too bad you don't have a neighbor with an Evolution saw...

[@adamgilesconcoursdelegance9302]

Who was cooking the Angel food cakes?🤣😋

[@rookie__pilot]

Haha good one 😂

[@kylebernard7755]

CAD Cardboard aided design. Gotta love modern technology. same way we did it in the 80s, save we started with plate steel :) I can't wait for wiring, snicker, you are gonna have a lot of fun with that,..

[@spotliterrr]

On the engine mounts… the GM design where the stud is vertical, and it’s dropped in, is better than the Ford. design as you have.. I’d put a mount on the frame rail , hole in the middle vertical .. then on the engine, a pad with donut on it, bolt would be vertical on the mount, so you’d just drop it in the hole.

[@toobusy63]

🙌🙌💯

[@kennethcohagen3539]

Before you weld them in, you need to address the steering shaft issue. You might have to move things around.

[@wongway40]

Looking forward to the next video. I was a bit concerned about the strength of those mount plates. If slight engine movement was enough to break a tack, will a full bead withstand the twist of full acceleration under load?

[@rookie__pilot]

Will be reinforcing the plates for sure!

[@asarand]

I am interested in finding out how all these modifications to the drivetrain are going to affect your center of gravity. With the engine pushed back and the rear differential narrowed, you have significantly changed the balance. Please keep us informed, if you can, on how the center of gravity has changed.

[@rookie__pilot]

Yes! Im hoping to put it on some scales when its ready!

[@alwaysworking7899]

Looks great but keep in mind you will have to work on the car make sure you leave enough room for tools and for bolts to come all the way out. And also I would recommend a flat bolt down style mount vs the tab and bolt to avoid the in and out problem, that way you could in bolt and slide it forward before lifting up.

[@rookie__pilot]

Great point, thanks!!

[@madDadMusic]

I keep singing all along the shock tower when ever you mention it

[@thijsrooijakkers2153]

A cheap set of headers? Like 35 dollar set of headers?

[@rookie__pilot]

x2 -10

[@walterabarca5786]

$25

[@rookie__pilot]

X2 +10

[@walterabarca5786]

@@rookie__pilot so $60 I think I paid $40 for mine

[@RealCujo]

Was I the only one waiting for the grinding wheel to make its grand entrance?

[@rookie__pilot]

Haha! I have yet to attach the bench grinder to its stand

[@thyubernoob]

Put the intake on and mount a lift plate..

[@rookie__pilot]

I have the intake lift plate but i have no intake.. 😂

[@thyubernoob]

@@rookie__pilot Well, that could be a problem...lol

[@Andrew-jh5uv]

Angel drag race vs Celica 😂

[@kingsleywray6632]

Thanks for sharing :)

[@theroving1]

Radical, I like it!

[@tuckerbunch9553]

You should consider moving the front axle line forward. You’ll have to relocate the fender wheel arches forward as well, but if the bodywork is well done, it would be a subtle and effective mod.

[@briancostich4288]

Changing the whole workings of the car and needing custom fenders. Plus he has already fully welded in the front suspension, coilovers location and cross member

[@Drunken_Hamster]

TBH, the first gen Mustang already has short overhangs and a relatively far forward front axle line. The reason he can't get the engine back FURTHER is that the car is still proportioned (cabin size-wise) to fit two rows of seating. You could shorten the whole wheelbase 8 inches (100" new total), and if you sat the driver where the rear seats were, you could move the firewall back ANOTHER 8 inches. The proof of this is in the Dodge Viper, which has, IIRC, THREE WHOLE FEET of space between the firewall and front axle centerline, and a 99" wheelbase. And for most small block V8 engines, you only need about 26 inches of space to have the engine block fully aft of the front axle centerline.