Remove and replace brake pads/rotors on 2014 Ford Mustang

Step by step how to replace your front brake pads and rotors on your 5th generation Ford Mustang years 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014. Watch this short video to see if you have to confidence to change your own brake pads and rotors.

[@drfatmanrox]

Great video by a professional, but we are not all so professional. These comments are for the person who wants to do it for fun or because they have to to save money. Those 12mm sliders bolts and the big bracket bolts are a bear to get off without a pneumatic driver like his, so be ready to muscle it. I did pads only this time, and the ones I used did not come with new shims. I cleaned them off with brake cleaner, good as new. When he puts the pads on, that little tab he shows you is the squealer - when you’ve got almost no pad left, the squealer hits the rotor and is impossible for you to ignore. Unfortunately, my 2014 Mustang GT, which I bought new form the dealership, squealed form the day I drove it off the lot, and they just shrugged every time I tried to have them remedy it. The problem is, with it always squealing, I never knew when I needed brakes. I have an independent guy who usually does my tires and oil changes, and every time he looks at my brakes, he says they’re fine, looks like you never use them. Most recently I went to a dealership with a coupon for an oil change, and at 56,000 miles, they said I need brakes NOW. I wanted to do it myself, so I googled up pad information, and Scotty Kilmer (you’ve got to see his videos) swore by Akebono, and it seems they have great reviews, so I ordered fronts and rears. Surprise, when I got my pads off, they are really barely worn. It really looks like I never use them. Beware of anything the dealer says you need. But, I had the new pads, and since I came to party, it was time to dance. In this video he did only the fronts, so you can open up the calipers with the tool he has or a c clamp, which a lot of home guys do, but you need a special brake caliper tool to push back the pistons on the rears - they screw in, they don’t just squeeze in. I got one for around $20 on Amazon - an entire kit in a carrying case for every brake conceivable, and a pair of mechanics gloves I wasn’t expecting (Orion brand in a blue carrying case). At around 7:50 he slides the caliper back on and shows you the flat spot on the slider and the need to match it up with the flat spot on the caliper. C’mon Ford, why? This should have just been engineered to not need a flat spot. Your view in the driveway on jack stands won’t be like the pro on a lift, so I can see screwing up that step. It’s also a little bit of a wrestling match getting the caliper back on, just because it’s kind of heavy, you don’t want to yank on the brake lines, and appropriately, there’s not a whole lot of clearance between the caliper and the new pads that are easy to knock off while you are wrestling. He didn’t put any grease on the shims, but the new pads come with molybdenum grease just for this reason, and you want to grease the shims where the pads slide on them, and I’ve seen recommendations to put a spot of grease on the back of the pads where they hit the pistons and on the back of the outer one where they might contact the caliper. It’s never a home job without a run to the parts store, so here’s where I screwed up. Putting the 12mm caliper bolts back on, I wasn’t satisfied I had it on tight enough. I don’t have a torque wrench, and I’ve read so many posts from guys who do it for a living without a torque wrench, that I figured I’d be ok, as long as I did it tight enough. I made the mistake of adding a pipe to my ratchet to get some more leverage, and I snapped the bolt. I thought I was really screwed, with a piece of bolt now in a caliper or bracket, but it is only in the sliding pin, so if you’ve got to break a bolt somewhere, this is the place to do it. About $10 later, I had a new slider and bolt, this time tightened only by hand with the ratchet and no additional tools for leverage! To lube the slider, they say you need a special grease formulated for Ford, which I had from a previous job on my truck, and it’s on the shelf at the parts store. I took it out for a spin, and the squeal I had from the time I drove it off the dealer’s lot in 2013 was gone, so the short term results are good.

[@alexdpfilmz]

Your comment is greatly appreciated.... Thank you

[@TMB3BB]

Man this comment is 9 months old but seems exactly like my life lol. Bought my 2014 Mustang GT a month ago and my passenger side rear pads will not stop squeaking as the wheel turns during driving and I see uneven wear on the rotor. Currently waiting for my upgraded pad and rotor kit to come in the mail. Your comment gives me a bit more confidence as I've never changed brakes myself before. Thanks for the detailed information!

[@kg0311]

Which side was the squealing coming from and any idea why?

[@samiinotevayas]

I’ll ñopjy

[@sama.1287]

@@TMB3BB Any update on the squeak?

[@rmill3983]

please remember to clean off all grease from the rotor before turning it so no grease will get onto the nice new clean brake pads I was also taught to put some lube where the pads make contact to the caliper bracket I was always told to make sure I did not push the old brake fluid back into the ABS system .... so that any dirty old fluid would not mess up the ABS As for hanging the caliper on the shock I always knew that as the strut but what do I know other then that great job

[@doodoobutter4406]

Robert Miller so how else would you slide caliper back over thicker new brakes? you telling me youd drain your brake fluid every brake change? cause thats about the only way i ever seen anyone get the caliper back over the pads by pushing them in like he did. why else would they make the tool

[@rmill3983]

@@doodoobutter4406 well if you open the bleeder just a little as your pushing it back in then you really do not need to bleed everything and nothing goes back into the very very small post inside the abs unit but it is not my car so who cares right........

[@yungsicxxpakc]

@@rmill3983 mmm so you don’t always have to bleed ya brakes ? Cause I heard someone tell me that and I was like ehh

[@Gwhitebeard]

Looks to be a coated rotor good move for the rust belt. Good VIDEO.

[@DiLoMusic]

EZPZ I got this. Thank you.

[@shawnhasty7480]

No one in these types of videos ever mentions bleeding the brakes they need to add that in also I like the comment on how the back Calipers cylinder screws in rather than slides so you need a special tool for that got mine at Advance Auto for 12 bucks all in all not a bad video thank you

[@Hardwaretuned]

U do not need to bleed the brakes.

[@xanderkresh8962]

Bleeding the brakes is not required, just add brake fluid if some gets pushed out the resevoir.

[@EastTheBeast911]

Good vid

[@dominiquecook788]

Those aren’t 12 mm

[@whatswrong598]

Good shit Dominique