Remove and Replace Driveshaft Subaru Outback or Legacy

[@parkerlongbow]

Great video! My GF and I just replaced one of her front axles on her forester. We watched your video a few times the day before, and day of the job and it all went off without a hitch.

[@carquestions]

Excellent outcome - keep up the good work

[@blaque588]

As I'm sure like many of you reading this, I have waded through countless car videos on KZbin. And lemme tell you h'wat, this one is damn just about PERFECT! Thanks for the vid.

[@carquestions]

Thanks - glad to help

[@christofergreen214]

The only video I've found replacing the cv axles without the roll pin. Worked for my 2012 impreza. Thanks

[@carquestions]

Anytime Chris - cheers!

[@BenRidgeCO]

You saved me $200 doing it myself. Thanks for the good instructions. Pretty straightforward!

[@carquestions]

Way to go Ben - made my day

[@acflick64]

Absolutely exceptional video...detail oriented, methodical, easy to follow and understand, logical approach....I'm about to replace both front axles, both front wheel bearings, and both front control arms....almost a complete front end suspension re-build on my 2005 Outback 2.5i.

[@carquestions]

Thanks and keep on fixin!

[@cardro29]

carquestions Okay Google prices on 2005 for Ford F-150 driveshaft

[@cardro29]

prices on Ford F150 2005 driveshaft

[@tommysimon3140]

Excellent video! Thanks to you, it took me only about 1/2 hour to change out the axle shaft on my wife's 2014 Outback. It took me longer to clean up all the grease that was flung out of the ripped CV boot.

[@carquestions]

Thanks - anytime Tommy

[@jesseellington342]

Let me say that "This" is the video for a 2008 Imprezza Sedan 2.5. After removing the wheel, only remove 6 total bolts ! The axle nut, 3 bolts holding brake an abs wires, and 2 holding knuckle to strut. Thats it! Do not mess with tie rods or ball joint, brakes at all as in other vid's. Mark alignment and remember you can turn the front wheels L/R to gain a little space to get axle out. A true easy project. Also, I paid $70 US for a "NEW" axle at NAPA, lifetime warrenty. Was going to rebuild the OE Axle as a boot kit is only $15 but for the life of me could not hammer the outer joint apart. It was loose but that inner ring was not letting to. Destroyed it before caving in. If this axle is a problem, will be easy to replace.

[@carquestions]

Excellent - great result

[@celiocosta4084]

Nice class. Thanks! I´m having lots of trouble with the shafts of my Forester in Brazil. Looks like the car is not strong enough to the roughness of our roads. The Subaru shops in Brazil just screw it up even more each time you take the car to be fixed. Then I decided to do it myself. I have changed both of the front axles after watching this video. One thing I learned, the hard way, by changing just the outer CV joint, is that greese can be sprayed out of the shaft boots, at high speed, if the boots are not well tightened up at the ends. With the heat of the mufflers, the greese burns, smells bad and sticks all over under the hood.

[@johnmurphy9688]

your video is by far one of the best explained recorded on the web.will be doing both frt cv axles on 07 legacy outback,thanks to your info. Cheers and Thanks again from the Irish

[@carquestions]

No trouble at all - top of the mornin

[@patrickmcmurray9446]

Well done Mark, thank you. Doing a "96" and it has a pin to be removed near the transaxle. 11 years later and they did away with it, nice. Progress!

[@pfulks]

Thank you, super easy on my 2008 outback. 90 minutes total for both front axles and I am intermediate skill level for other’s reference

[@carquestions]

Love it ! keep up the good work Peter - cheers!

[@jchambers2000]

Awesome dude! I have a 2007 Outback, LL Bean edition and this was exactly what I needed since my other 5 Subaru cars are early models that have pins holding them in. This did the trick! You are through in your explanation and precise on your facts. Made my job easy. Oh, I have so many Subarus because I put 70,000 miles a year on them in my line of work. Constantly replacing timing belts, axels and idler parts. These are great cars and perform well on construction sites that are filled with loose, silty sand that you get stuck in easily and plenty of nails (keep lots of spares). My Subie's never get stuck. Also, parts are plentiful in junkyards because they are not popular. The most fantastic thing about them is that their motto is "inexpensive and built to stay that way" and so I find that I can take parts off of many models and years and bolt them right on. A 92 I own (my favorite) has parts from 84 to 09 bolted on it! Seats, diff covers, struts, brakes - it don't matter. It all works. Thanks again and kudos to you. Jimi...

[@carquestions]

+Jimi C Keep em going - good luck!

[@pdiz]

Thank you, I'll be doing this this weekend with my Subaru Baja Turbo, which uses the newer-style half shafts like this car. Your help is appreciated and invaluable.

[@carquestions]

+Patrick Vaden No problem - glad to help

[@millhouse8457]

Great instructions. Not to wordy, easy to understand, and to the point. Very helpful! Still not sure if I'm going to do it myself. My 2010 Subaru Outback ( my SOB, in more ways than one, but I love it) clunks when hitting small bumps and man hole covers and also when turning into parking lots with lowered curbs to go over. I am not an not an expert but in my experience I think this is a bad CV joint.

[@carquestions]

No - more likely a bad ball joint, tie rod end or sway bar link

[@rsrocket1]

Great tips on removing the hose line brackets. Removing them gives just enough extra room to slide the axle in and out. Doing this myself justified buying an electric impact wrench which is a huge help in loosening bolts and lugnuts (I still torque them manually). First axle job ever and it took just over an hour to replace both sides. Thank you!

[@doug900S]

Hey, Very good video! I'm a pretty decent shade tree mechanic, but it's always a good idea to get an overview, on something, if you haven't ventured into it, for that particular car. Great job on detail! And, very clear video! Thanks again!

[@paulmicheal3546]

The best, most thorough c.v replacement vid I found... A+...

[@gonzow206]

Just did my LH cv joint on an 04 Outback. Your video was a superb help. Thank you!

[@KLNYC]

My 2nd time doing my 2007 OB. Wow I didn’t know u don’t need to remove the caliber. good video

[@vermili0n]

I can’t get the ball joint free so I’ll try this method, looks fairly simple so thanks for the video ! I hope I can finish this job and get back on the road today

[@carquestions]

Hope it works out for you - let me know - Cheers from Canada!

[@daleglennie4822]

An excellent video, with a lot fewer steps than other videos showing CV axle replacement. Considering doing this on my 2010 Forester. Two questions: 1) do you need to drain the differential oil first and 2) do you need to replace the differential housing seal (aka axle seal)? I've seen videos where they insist you should drain the fluid and put in a new seal before the new axle. Personally I'd rather avoid these steps!

[@carquestions]

No draining of diff and no seal if not leaking before

[@daleglennie4822]

Thanks for the prompt reply! That's what I thought too. I appreciate the work you put into this video and all the comments as well.

[@samuelhenton3258]

Here's a tip, you only need to remove the castle nut on the ball joint on the bottom of the suspension, pry the lower control arm down and you can remove the CV axle. You DO NOT need to remove the upper bolts and risk messing up the alignment.

[@fitulus]

This is how i have learned it too in school. So yes you are right. My teacher was a master mechanic that was teaching not only us but very extreme advanced car mechanics. Also police officers, fire department. People from Porsche, Mercedes, Bmw, etc..

[@kemarrance8755]

This is not a driveshaft video, but continue.

[@Brooklynkitty2]

So what video is this?

[@forrestn4988]

A Driveshaft runs front to back, not out to the sides. This is not a driveshaft video.....

[@Brooklynkitty2]

Forrest N thank you for the Clarification

[@creamtube]

@@forrestn4988 Whats it called it then?

[@forrestn4988]

@@creamtube CV

[@Danielandradedance]

He is awesome. Gives lots of good feedback to avoid mistakes.

[@carquestions]

+Daniel Andrade Thanks

[@roobieima9960]

Good Job! Looks like this is a common problem. Had the same problem on my Outback 2008 R3.0 H6 at about 102,000 Km (never been off-roading) and got the right hand driveshaft replaced when I did the 100,000 km service. Subaru changed me near AUD1,000. Four or so weeks later the left one leaked as well. It cost another whopping AUD500 - they did not pick this up when they rendered the service. Not sure what will come up in the next few weeks. I expected Subaru would produce more reliable components which is not the case. Had two Hondas in the past I only started seeing problems when they went over 200,000 Km. I was hoping to replace my car with another Outback or Forester but I am not sure now with cost of maintenance. I only wish I can replace the driveshafts myself.

[@carquestions]

+Roobie Ima My rule is that if a product lets me down I do not purchase it again - I'll reward the companies that don"t let me down - get a Honda CRV

[@stephenmaurer7008]

+carquestions Always had great luck with Honda and Toyota cars and trucks!!

[@FCFordLord]

That's very early for CV shafts to go, mine lasted 12 years / 200k miles.

[@danmyself5341]

well detailed info, now I feel confident enough to do mine, and it's an 07 legacy, good tips, thanks

[@carquestions]

Great - let me know how you make out - and remember detail counts

[@danmyself5341]

I completed the job today, but I didn't replace the axle, I replaced the boots, which went well, took me an hour to clean everything, I did both boots after all, did the brake pads, discs, sway bar links, thanks again !

[@gregorland1697]

Thanks. Got one to do on a 2008 Legacy about same millage. Yes you have a nice floor lift. I am working on a concrete pad car on jack stands.

[@carquestions]

Good luck to you Greg

[@djDTOUR]

Fantastic video. I'm fairly certain this is the same procedure that one would follow for an 03 forester x. One question though. I drive a 5 speed forester with a bad front right axle. When I gear down to 2nd to take a left turn (when I have a good amount of speed and a lot of inertia is bearing down on the front right wheel), my car seems to almost fight itself to the point of stalling. As soon as I throw it in neutral, everything is back to normal. This only happens in that one circumstance. Could this be the symmetrical AWD being confused by a broken or severely damaged tie rod inside the axle? Could my problems be rooted deeper in something such as the ABS system or the transmission? Thanks again for uploading this great video.

[@MrSoulMonk]

Great video. Thanks for posting. I have an '04 Outback and was not sure if there is a pin that holds the drive shaft to the hub assembly that you have to tap out before removing the shaft. I noticed in your video that after you removed the shaft nut, you undid the shaft.

[@carquestions]

+MrSoulMonk No pin - just as shown in video

[@kingmike40]

I just purchased a 2015 Subaru Legacy. I hope it last longer than 75000 before major repair. My F150 is 10 years old and has 168000 miles. It has been a great truck.

[@Y10Q]

Hope is the only thing you can do. I owned a few Subarus, and on some of them, those axles lasted longer than the engine, 300k miles. I have never had rear axles go bad, on any of them. Just the front. On older Legacies it was outer boot, and on the newer Legacy it was the inside boot. Besides it's not a major repair. Thats like a $100 repair if you can do it yourself and about 2hrs tops with no air tools. With air tools thats a 40 minute job, provided the axle nut cooperates. The only time those axles go bad is if the car was in an accident (mine was T-boned) in the past and things go out of alignment or you hit pothole at 70mph (I hit a deer wit another Legacy) and push things out of alignment. They don't ever go bad in everyday driving conditions. You can't listen to dealers. They charge $200 for oil change.

[@vyvymac764]

Nice jobs, clear and,simple professional introductions Thank's You for the video.

[@nwpilot81]

On my 2005 Subaru the old CV axle had a baffle/seal/dust cover where the axle goes into the transfer case and the new one does not. Do I need that seal for my new axle? Great video and thanks in advance for any help. (By the way my Subaru is the same set up of the one in this video)

[@carquestions]

I'll say they don't put stuff on cars without a reason - that said, most mechanics would simply install the one you have without seeing any ill effects -

[@godzla69]

First of all thank you for time to make this video. just some suggestions, however; it would be nice when making these types of videos to actually move the camera so that it may capture the key elements, (the half shaft/cv joint) in this case so you can see exactly what/where you are prying and how it is supposed to look at the point when you hadn't quite pushed it in far enough. Thanks.

[@mbarryr]

Thanks for this video. Armed with this info I am sure I can replace my driveshaft on my Outback. Nice Job!

[@manvirphull67]

Great video! Would you happen to know the cost including parts and labor for replacing a passenger side driveshaft on a 2011 Subaru Legacy 3.6? Im in Ontario, Canada, if that makes it easier to pinpoint the price

[@carquestions]

depends where you take it - $350 to $650

[@mikecarlin3396]

Great video. What Mfg is your car lift? And where did you purchase it from? Thank you.

[@donhite6246]

Thanks for the video very helpful. I replaced both axles on my 03 legacy 120 mi, that had both boots split about the same time, grease everywhere. After the burning smell came a growling sound then a clicking sound at left and right turns coasting and under throttle. I checked both wheels for play and examined the bearing the best I could once the axles were out but could not rule out a bad bearing. Put it back together and still have growling and clicking on turns but I'm not throwing grease everywhere. Any advice??? Thanks...

[@carquestions]

Sounds like a wheel bearing for sure - change whichever one is loudest first

[@ryanward4728]

1. Lift vehicle. 2 remove wheel. 3 remove 32mm cv nut 4 remove pin and loosen castle nut from ball joint. Leave it on a few threads so you don't damage it while pounding to pop it free. Once free move to step 5. 5. Remove castle nut 6. Use prybar to pull lower control arm and get ball joint free 7. Swing hub/brake assembly out of the way and slide cv axle out of hub. 8. Place bucket under transmission and Use prybar to pop cv out of transmission. 9. Install new cv into transmission. And slip back into hub. Push it hard to make sure it's locked in all the way. 10. Use prybar to pull lca and reinstall ball joint. 11. Reinstall castle nut with new pin, and 32mm cv nut. 12. Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts. Long story short...you only have to remove ball joint on these cars in particular...did mine last night in 7 mins.

[@bigkensliberty]

Hey hi mate thanks for your helpful vid on removal and install of cv shafts/axles. Was just wondering if you have any tips or vids on how to remove and install shifter linkage/bushes for a 5 speed 2003 subaru liberty?

[@carquestions]

+Ken Seale Sorry no vids on that yet

[@1963ksa]

Followed your excellent video to do this on my 2008 Outback. However, ran into problem with getting stub out of the wheel bore/bearing housing. Hammered out partially then it stopped moving. Afraid to hit the stub to hard and cause some damage. Any suggestions on why it's not coming out easily

[@carquestions]

Normally you can just pry them out with a bar - you might have a damaged clip on the end of the shaft catching on something

[@johnnymattingly7268]

Great video! This guy isn't joking about the rust either. If your car has enough rust this becomes a tough job fast.

[@danking7830]

Excellent video! On my way to give this a shot now.

[@carquestions]

Good luck Dan

[@jackrichiedei]

Great vid. 09 lego, metallic clunk in morning when backing up at first coming from rt. front. I replaced 2 whining f. wheel bearings last yr. myself. ( hint: heat up the knuckle before trying to wack the old one off). This clunk sounds like a half shaft. What do you think? Love your workshop! I'm laying in a gravel driveway!

[@carquestions]

Drive it in a tight circle to check - both ways - if a CV is bad it will make the noise then - thanks

[@krupadrum]

So I live in the uk, 2014 Forester XT developed a metallic chirp? Mostly just pulling away from a stop. I was convinced it was a CVT issue. My local Subaru workshop test drove it and after 5 mins on the ramp... Front near side drive shaft diagnosed. For others to be aware! 😉

[@happydave5806]

Just curious as to why u don't just drop the lower ball joint and pry down the lower control arm instead of risking messing up your alignment? It also saves alot of time with less steps. Not cutting u down or anything, your way works too, just wondering...

[@carquestions]

Can't remember why - but ya the ball joint remove is the most typical way

[@Lafue108]

Because messing with the ball joint can turn into a PITA project. Those pinch bolts snap.

[@16480287]

DRIVESHAFT The propeller shaft that transmits engine torque to the differential. It can also refer to the halfshafts on a FWD vehicle or the axle shaft on a RWD vehicle with IRS.There is large shaft that goes from the transmission to the rear differential. This is commonly refered to as either a driveshaft or propshaft. On some vehicles this is a one piece unit, on others, it is a two piece unit. Typically you replace it as a complete assembly. Quality heavy duty Subaru Drive Shaft also known as Subaru Driveline or Subaru Propeller Shaft is available new or completely remanufactured with new U-Joints, CV Joint and Center Support with bearing - complete with Free Shipping and ready to install. This Subaru Drive Shaft will carry the necessary torque with ease. Our Subaru Driveshaft will fit perfectly and is built from high quality materials to last. To prevent vibration at all speeds, drive shaft balancing weights are welded to the shaft. Every driveline is painted, balanced at 3,500 RPM and shipped completely assembled. Back to Top

[@martinjoyce9794]

Thanks Mark, Going for both sides on a Merc' Vito tomorrow..... Regards, Martin

[@Bekim8310]

I know this video is old but I love that lift. What kind is it? Thanks

[@carquestions]

just a plain scissor lift - bought at lift super store in Canada

[@marcterrazas4713]

My car needs new front struts I'm told, as well as one half shaft. Would those be fine to do at the same time? Would the "mark the bolt and align it on the strut" technique work or would I need to get an alignment?

[@carquestions]

Marc Terrazas That technique would work fine but its up to them to decide that. Most times they"ll want to get you for an alignment

[@3drinksin273]

What car lift is that? I have seen those designs but nothing that large before. We have a couple of shops that need them badly.

[@grant4735]

Little bit different than what my book says (loosen balljoint and tie rod) but your method seems to work just fine, thanks for the video. Would I be ok with a shaft from Autozone or should I go for the OEM? I've heard OEM is the safest best for subaru half shafts. This is actually our second shaft. When we bought the car I had the dealership replace both front shafts for torn boots (something the missed on their 100 point inspection, go figure)...well it's developed another shudder after only a year and the left shaft is loose. Did this customer have any recurring issues after a few thousand miles?

[@carquestions]

+Grant Smith Loose?? thats rare - 90% of shafts are replaced for torn/leaking boots - you might have another issue. To answer your question - Subaru's originals didn't last, nor the last ones - I would try another brand since I don't like to use the same manufacturer if their parts failed because of their defect in design or manufacturer

[@grant4735]

I thought the same thing about loosness when the mechanic told me. I initially took it in for a shudder at 30kph, thinking there was a torque converter lockup issue. I was told the tires needed agressive rebalance and that 90% of the shudder was eliminated...they also said the axle was loose when they shook on it and recommended I replace that...their explanatio for why the shudder still exists at 30kph was the loose shaft. I havent had a chance to get the car on a lift yet...could this be a wheel bearing issue? I dont have any wheel play yet, but there is a loud roar (which I thought might be crummy all season tires. unfortunately after changing tires the roar is still there).

[@carquestions]

Sounds like the wheel bearing for sure - don't change the shaft again - change the wheel bearing

[@macmacdonald4996]

Hey Mark...quick question on the driveshaft for outback...we just bought a 2008 outback in July of 2014...drivers side axle and rear wheel bearing went about 3 mos apart. Now its 3 mos later, and we are dealing with the passenger side-same thing. I understand this is normal, and that the RT> side usually wears FIRST due to road camber/crown in N. America. In your clip, you showed just "popping" the axle out...NO PIN? I have done these on Caravans etc...but never on a foreign...the lock pin should just come out with a punch/drift pin correct? ..Thanks Sooooo much for the clip, I am 50 and on total disability, so money is tight!!!!...and here in the SW -US...that would be a $300-400 USD job for sure. axle was only $80 and rear wheel bearing was 60. saving my bacon BIG time sir...thanks for a great vid...love your teaching style. Peace and God bless. Mac (NM/AZ border)

[@carquestions]

Yep - no pin - they use a locking type nut instead - the type where you hammer/dent the top collar of the nut - it's as common as using a cotter pin - both are very common ways od locking the axle shaft nut

[@macmacdonald4996]

***** sorry I didnt clarify...I got that part with the nut thanks to your vid clip... I meant that I had seen some scripted instructions that said the INNER side of the axle where it goes inside, is on some models held in with a "spring pin" ? never heard of that ...but it looks just like a pin to hold a spline or a cotter pin with no loop end. Thanks for the reply! AND a great vid

[@carquestions]

Mac MacDonald OK you mean the round spring clip around the splines of the inner CV joint inside the transaxle - Yes it simply pops out if you pry on it and to put it in you have to give it a good shove and I mean good. It is by far the most common way holding the inner CV joint inside the transaxle

[@macmacdonald4996]

***** excellent..so similar to the older caravans etc...thanks so much Mark...was gonna do it today, as there is nobody home...but working off the ground in 30mph wind and snow....NOT good...ahhhh..guess I am relegated to watching hunting and fishing for the next several hours...man thats rough...dont know how Im gonna do it!!! ..peace and God bless Mark. Merry Christmas..and thanks again.

[@carquestions]

Mac MacDonald No problem Mac - glad to help - Merry Christmas to you and yours

[@rossgrimson972]

Top presentation Mark. Thanks the Aussies.

[@carquestions]

+Ross Grimson Thanks from your Canadian cousins

[@rogerdiener8877]

Great video. On small thing. Make sure you clean any stray grease you got on the brake rotor before you replace the wheel.

[@carquestions]

+Roger Diener Good advice - always appreciated

[@Treeves30]

Thanks for the video! I did this exact job in about an hour with much lesser tools than you have! The only difference was that I was able to pry out the old axle from above rather than below. Now, how do I clean up the bottom of my car with all that grease that was strewn around and keeps dripping onto the catalytic converter and exhaust!

[@carquestions]

+Ted Reeves Engine shampoo when engine is cold should do it

[@thelostmachine8395]

All you needed to do was remove the lower ball joint nut then you wouldn't have had to screw with the essentric alignment/knuckle bolts or brake hose/bracket nor the abs sensor... When you see a technician that knows what they're doing it's like watching a dance, an automatic routine... It's beautiful to watch and you'll know it when you see it

[@thelostmachine8395]

PS; you are also putting undue stress on the inner and outer tie rod and the lower ball joint along with the abs sensor wire by removing the knuckle/alignment bolts because now the parts mentioned are carrying the weight of the knuckle itself which has all the brake components and wheel bearing and that makes it very heavy. Invest into a long breaker bar (4ft) so when you remove the lower ball joint nut on your next axle job you can use the bar to pull down on the control arm and separate the ball joint from the control arm. That way the strut is carrying all the weight and there is no undue stress on any components including yourself.

[@scotth5132]

Regarding alignment, for the RH axle I forgot to mark the strut eccentric bolt head, but I did notice the general position of the bolt. After reinstalling the axle I don't think I am more than 1 factory mark off. For the LH axle I took a digital photo. Do you think I need a realignment at this time? The current tires have about 10K mi of tread left.

[@carquestions]

If there is uneven tire wear or odd steering yes -

[@justooln2]

Ok, so when do you remove or replace the DRIVESHAFT in this video? I see you messing around with a CV shaft or Constant Velocity shaft or even a axle shaft, cv axle. but when do you look at or touch the drive shaft? Thanks for putting up the video though.

[@carquestions]

In Canada we call the driveshaft a prop shaft if it is front to rear - and driveshaft anything that drives the wheels directly

[@redlense4]

Thanks for the vid. I'm just about to do an '08. So, I'm assuming the job will be very similar. The grease splash pattern looks almost identical to the one you showed. My garage smells poisonous right now :-0

[@carquestions]

+redlense4 No problem - good luck

[@walktheline21]

Quick question.. you slid out the drive shaft easily. Was there no pin or bolt holding the drive shaft to the tranny? I think I saw a video on a 2004/2005 Subaru that had a pin you needed to punch out to make that change.

[@carquestions]

+Steven McNay No pin but you need to pop it out with the aid of a big flat blade screwdriver at the same time you pull - it has a round spring clip on the end - no pin

[@stephenmaurer7008]

Are located in Ontario?? I visit White Lake (west of Ottawa) for Bass and Walleye fishing!! Goo job on the video!! I guess this is the same job on the GT model??

[@carquestions]

+Stephen Maurer Didn't check but very likely similar if not exact -

[@carquestions]

+Stephen Maurer I live in the southern part of Ontario near Brantford

[@YouInnerTuber]

What was the penetrant you used to loosen nuts/bolts? (it left a whitish residue) Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

[@carquestions]

Rust check - comes in different flavours - I always buy the wrong one

[@Nwrig004]

Many brands will do the trick but PB Blaster is common I use Liquid Wrench (sold at AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, etc)

[@gregfazzio6560]

Awesome video! Where did you source the replacement half shaft? Also, did you go with a remanufactured unit or new factory? Thanks for posting this. You did a great job explaining each step.

[@carquestions]

They are all reman stuff - from local parts guy

[@zainchristopher2536]

Excellent! Your video was a great help. Thanks!

[@davidstembridge1262]

Roughy what year range do this cover? I read that some of the older models use a pin on the inside. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT Limited Wagon. Thanks!

[@brandonscheuvront3322]

This will be the same for any 2005-2009 Subaru Outback or Legacy made in the US.

[@davidstembridge1262]

Thanks!

[@brandonscheuvront3322]

David Stembridge no problem but if you live in the rust belt prepare to go through some serious hell

[@xpane]

Great video, thanks Mark.

[@carquestions]

Anytime James

[@RogerECarr]

Nice video...thanx for the refresher course...

[@carquestions]

Anytime Roger

[@98270360]

Great video. Thank you. I'm going to do this now on my 2009.

[@timarc124]

Great how-to video ! Nice job !

[@carquestions]

Thanks - no problem

[@mwj5368]

Hi! I have a 1997 subaru legacy L with 281,000 miles and it needs a new drive shaft. It's been all of it's life in Minnesota. The mechanic that was going to do the work who used a big lift said my muffler is rusty and would be impossible to remove and would destroy the manifold meaning then impossible cost to replace both drive shaft and manifold. He then said to look for another car. The second opinion mechanic didn't have a lift but laid down and had me go from drive to reverse about 5 times with brake pedal down. Then he test drove it (the first mechanic never test drove it) and said it was okay and could keep driving as is. His price was higher to replace but feels I can do okay and don't need to replace it now. I can't afford another car and would spend $600. My engine is very good. I realize now at 13:00 you are replacing the I think front axle and CV joint right? My drive shaft goes from the engine back to my rear wheel gear cluster or whatever, differential. I have a wagon and its all wheel drive. The "drive shaft" they call it in USA goes the length of the car. Is there a trick to take apart the old shaft and re-piece and work around the muffler? Also, then could one take apart the new drive shaft and put it back together around the muffler -- in other words a trick of the trade? Thanks!

[@carquestions]

Correct - I am replacing the right front wheel driveshaft which has CV joints - It sounds to me that you need the main driveshaft to the rear diff? The correct way to inspect it is to have it on a lift - BTW - what is your complaint exactly and how did you come to suspect the driveshaft? is it noisy? - maybe it is something else - As far as tricks - sorry

[@mwj5368]

***** Hi! Thanks very much for response. Another term I heard is "main driveshaft" and also "propeller shaft" so yes it is the main drive shaft that goes to the rear differential. Why I called attention to it is if I'm coasting, then I step on the gas, it doesn't always do it, but I hear a "thump" sound that made me feel there is loose play in the drive train. It seems to sound further under the car and not the CV joints. In 2007 I had a new I think whole passenger's side axel and CV joint put in when it made a lot of noise going through Fargo, ND and Tires Plus there charged $320 to replace it. So once I returned home within a year I had the driver's side replaced in about 2008 so I don't think it's already the CV joints. The mechanic who had the big lift was the one who told me drive it with AAA road insurance but save at least $2,000 and buy another car. I can't afford to do that. The other second opinion mechanic without a lift laid down and watched as I put it in drive, then reverse repeatedly, then said "let's take it on a test drive". He couldn't make it "thump" but asked if it ever "ticked" or made sounds and I said no, other than the "thump" when accelerating after coasting. It wouldn't "thump" when I wanted it to ha! Well last night at a forum a guy said for Subaru I think 1995 to about 2001 you can take the rear half of the main drive shaft out, leave the front half in or you'll lose all of you transmission fluid and drive around with just "front wheel drive". His son had been doing that with his 1995 model for I think about over a year and was doing fine. I wonder though about the AWD or All Wheel Drive feature if then I'd lose that? I love that nice big car feel of AWD but to save money I'd try it. Do you advise that? Also if I decide on a full drive shaft can a trick of the trade be to take it apart and work around a rusty muffler, then even take apart the new shaft and put it in around the muffler and reassemble it in place? Thanks as your advice is invaluable to me! Kindest Regards, 5368mwj

[@carquestions]

It doesn't sound like a driveshaft problem to me - it sounds like a transmission delayed downshift or upshift issue - if it was a lose driveshaft it would make the noise very consistantly - The reason you get a big thump is a rough gear change which will sometimes happen in big parking lots when you start to accelerate then just as the transmission is shifting to the next gear up you take your foot off the gas and coast causing a rough upshift - thats why they couldn't replicate it since it needs to be an exact speed and driving situation - You might want to take it to a transmission place for they'll know for sure - you also might wait until the problem gets more pronounced - then it is easier to diagnose - also check how tight rear driveshaft nuts are - they might have losened off since being replaced

[@mwj5368]

Hi! Thanks again for the very helpful advice and time you have taken with me as this is effecting a very big decision for me as I just had two new rotors, four pairs of brake pads, and two new calipers put in, plus a new power steering pump, new valve cover gaskets, a tie rod, and did an alignment... also a bran new fuel tank filler pipe, plus my engine “sounds” beautiful. A retired mechanic about a year ago laughed at my skepticism and said I'd get 450,000 miles out of it when he heard how great my engine sounds (I'm at 280,000). Also 4yrs ago I had a nice Bosch fuel pump put in it. Also in 2007 had new rear struts and two new CV axles put in.... It also has only about 5,000 miles on top grade ($450 worth) tires.... I'm retired and now very low budget and now drive about 6,000 miles a year. It's a mini wagon so when going cross country I sleep in the back and save on motel costs.... Sorry for not describing things all that well. Actually this "thump" kind of experience has been happening intermittently for about 2 years. I kept forgetting to mention it to my regular mechanic, the guy with the big lift - so this time I remembered and asked if he'd check out my drive train thus his finding the drive shaft loose. I think I catch your logic... something like this: “A tranny can have an intermittent problem but not a loose drive shaft.” Also I'm now thinking... “One can of course have both a drive shaft and a tranny problem. These mechanics are seeing, and first mechanic with the big lift also actually feeling, a loose drive shaft, but... each guy has different drive shaft related opinions, yet now you have a brilliant observation... on top of it all neither of them are considering a 'rough up-shift' and/or 'delayed down-shift' tranny problem too”, right? So another consideration: With a rough up-shift I wouldn't get a “Check Engine” light? I suppose if I don't get a Check Engine light with a loose drive shaft Subaru probably didn't put sensors in for tranny problems, right? Do tranny shops usually give a free diagnosis? Right now my Check Engine light, on for a year now, has been for two Evap problems (something like 400 codes), an evap switch and an evap valve, which that mechanic would do too but I don't know the price. Subaru has a neat feature if a second problem needs a Check Engine light the present Check Engine light that's already on will flash... so I know for sure the possible tranny problem is not triggering a Check Engine light. So with all that said, what do you think and I won't plague with more questions. Thanks for being so helpful at a crucial time for me as my car gets me to like surgery at Mayo Clinic, Dr. appts, hoping to get from Minnesota to New Mexico and back this winter. I'll take the Greyhound bus if I have to. I am though a person who can take a “no” for an answer and am open to any of your helpful insights. Sincerely mwj5368

[@carquestions]

The evap soleniods can be had at wrecking yards for just a few bucks and they are the same on various models, google where yours is on your car and go to a wrecking yard and get a good one off a low mileage or newer car. The tranny issue - just make sure the fluid level is correct - dont overfill it and leave it for now

[@Jesse_Nolan]

How you doing Mark, thanks for the four years of knowledge

[@carquestions]

Just retired from teaching - life is good

[@Jesse_Nolan]

Good for you,have a good one buddy

[@mehnlo]

what kind of car lift you have? I'd like to get one for my home garage

[@carquestions]

Scissor - got it at the lift super store in Oakville Ontario

[@rmcustom9573]

Again, I concur Kemar. this is NOT a "Driveshaft" video ! You would think (If you know HOW to think) that they would change the name of this video ! So, people dont continue looking it up & finding its the wrong video ! Therefore WASTING their time & energy ! I stumbled upon this video because I was looking for a friends professional "How-to" video that he has asked me to look at & grade. So, I would grade this video an "F", simply because it begins WRONG !

[@carquestions]

Guess you don't live in Canada - we call the other thing a propeller shaft

[@thepiedish903]

Ok here's one for ya. 05 outback "stock" transmission. It has the output shafts coming out of the transmission. Everyone is saying pull them out but they don't seem to move. I'm at a loss.

[@Orionshield1948]

Nice work, thanks for producing!

[@carquestions]

+Orionshield1948 No problem

[@akyukon]

Sure is nice when the axle pops out of the rotor like that! I spent 4 hours heating, soaking in PB blaster, hitting with a 5 pound hammer and putting a 5 ton gear puller on it. No go. I guess my next step is a rotary hammer, then get it to the shop if the rotary hammer doesn't work. Good video tho!

[@carquestions]

Been there - my sympathies AKY - Cheers from Canada!

[@akyukon]

@@carquestions Cheers right back atcha! So I rented a rotary hammer this am, and my son and I were able to hammer out the axle. It took a bit of hammering, but it did come out. The new one went in just fine, no problems fitting in the new one. Car drives great! Got a few inches of snow this morning, so all is good. Mark.

[@datalaforge]

Where did you get that lift?

[@markrivera8855]

are these the same steps for installing a cv axle for a 2007 impreza ?

[@carquestions]

Should be similar

[@gime3steps]

Thanks for the video, nicely done, helped alot!

[@thesniperofcs]

good job . the cost in Saudi Arabia for this is 250 Rials not in Subaru company maintenance workshop

[@carquestions]

That's interesting. I wonder how much that is in CDN $$? Thanks for watching

[@nathanwright9089]

please tell me where you got that mini hoist!

[@carquestions]

Sure no problem - The lift Super Store in Oakville Ontario Canada - 2k all in

[@kenseagle4169]

Nice video, well done.

[@carquestions]

Thanks Ken - anytime

[@Allbbrz]

Great quality video. Thanks.

[@Spencyspence]

Great video mate. Well done!

[@amandadavies1669]

thanks mate your a champion!

[@carquestions]

Anytime Amanda

[@dwservingHim]

Hey Mark, good video, but the title needs to be updated. You're not working on the driveshaft/propeller shaft, you're working on the axles, CV, half-shafts, suspension. The title is misleading. Thanks

[@tomwalma4762]

Dude, your back must be killing you after so many floor exercises....😎 Consider a portable cart for basic tools

[@TimSuggs]

What brand of lift are you using please?

[@carquestions]

Got it at the lift super store in Ontario Canada - but lots of people sell them

[@TimSuggs]

carquestions Thank you sir! Harbor Freight Tools has a very similar unit for $1500.00usd. They run a 20% off coupon every other month so that would knock it down to $1200.usd. Now I just need too convince "she who must be obeyed" that my desire to own one exceeds her need to argue about it. 😎

[@carquestions]

Tell her single women pay way more for car repairs than single men - if they are beauty queens they get a bit of a discount

[@alejandrosilva7520]

Super video. Thanks a lot!

[@k2pawn16]

Outstanding video. Thank you.

[@carquestions]

No problem - glad to help - any questions just ask - anytime

[@rogerfierro535]

I can not remove the axle nut because of the dent (lock). Could you please tell me how to do it? Thanks!

[@carquestions]

Sure - its easier than you think - just put the socket on it to remove it like normally and turn with more force than normal - this will break off a tiny bit of metal at the top of the nut and presto - the nut comes off - new nut should be installed with the new axle

[@rogerfierro535]

***** Got it with extra force! Now I can not install the new axle, I put it in, but, it doesn't go all the way! On the video you did it at the second try, please tell me your trick! Thanks man! Appreciate it!

[@carquestions]

roger fierro Put it in straight as you can - then push it in with a little force till it stops - then pull it straight back about 1 inch (no more or it will come out) then push forward again with all you've got - do it a couple of times if you have to - once its in you'll feel it click in and it won't pull out

[@rogerfierro535]

I'm done! Thank you so much for your help! I will subscribe to your channel! Thanks again!

[@linedean1]

nice, but you replaced the DRIVE AXLE not the DRIVE SHAFT.

[@carquestions]

My bad

[@specialized29er86]

Depends on the country, in Australia there the drive shafts.

[@16480287]

I think you just replaced the front right side CV axle OH! OH! I hope the customer understands, The drive shaft is behind the transmission it's the long tube that goes to the differential !

[@mauroheck1]

Excelent video. Could have been shortened a bit by speeding or eliminatint steps such as removing the tire bolts. Thank you.

[@carquestions]

Glad it helped

[@sherman931]

I have a question for you... do you have or do you know how to get the proper part number for drive axle for a 2002 Subaru Outback - H4 EJ253 - 2.5 Liter GAS 1-SOHC Engine? I am looking at Subarupartsdepot.com and it looks like multiple parts make-up the assembly... but I am not familar enough with the system to figure it out. Anyway, any help in this regard would be appreciated.

[@carquestions]

You want the last item - whole assembly - but forget using them just go to Pep Boys or CarQuest etc and ask for a driveshaft for your car - way cheaper and they look up the part for you

[@malvich9202]

A good shove and she's in 😂. Thanks for this video mate. Helps a lot.

[@carquestions]

Anytime Malvich - Cheers from Canada

[@Kevroj]

Im planning on buying 1968 Chevy Chevelle Malibu four doors,has camel hump heads with a 307 engine. Has 46k. Miles. It has two barrel, dual exhaust and brand new paint. The owner told me it needed head gasket (Not sure what that is). The staus is clean. He says it starts and runs but after a while it overheats so to cost further damage on the car he took the battery out and it just there. This the message he sent me "it runs but the car overheated on me and i blew the head gaskets and one lifter...it turns on and runs .. is not worth more risks thts why i recome". I told him about how much he thinks it would cost he said about 600-800 if serous damage 1200. To reuilt the complete motor

[@carquestions]

Big time gamble here - and the estimate is way off in the worst case scenario - plan a complete new motor for this purchase

[@Kevroj]

About how much you would say to repair

[@djshotty]

Pity that around 11 mins where you're 'popping' out the shaft you couldn't give us a close up view. On my MY03 Outback, there's a collet that seems to be holding a ring in place, stopping me from pulling the shaft from the box.

[@itneverwasme]

Previous generation axles 00-04 attached to a shaft on the transaxle with a roll pin. That pin needs to be knocked out from the NON-tapered side. They are directional so insert from the tapered side.

[@djshotty]

All good, I've already done the job, after removing/replacing the roll pin that locks the female end of the driveshaft onto the tapered shaft that comes out of the differential housing....

[@mikestrick30]

was an axle and you didn't show removing it from the transaxle.

[@jeffsteury4645]

It is almost impossible to remove (and dangerous!) to remove the axle nut (154 foot pounds) without using a breaker bar. Never do this while a car is on jackstands, you can knock the car right off the stands. Only remove the nut with the car on the ground, plus this keeps the wheels from spinning. And then there's the problem of removing the driveshaft from the hub! You may have to remove the knuckle completely, cut the old shaft off, and put the hub in a bearing press. In general, home mechanics that are likely to benefit from this kind of content aren't working on low mileage, rust free vehicles. It would be nice to see a video showing a more real-world repair, outlining the problems one is likely to encounter, it almost never is this easy!

[@carquestions]

This was done on a Candian car with typical wear and rust

[@davidkersey268]

Please change title and description. This is a "half shaft" or drive axle, NOT a driveshaft. Huge difference.

[@carquestions]

Tell that to Wikipedia Dave