Removing Pressed in Rocker Studs & Tapping for Screw in Studs on Vortec Heads

How to pull OEM press-in rocker arm studs and replace them with screw in studs on small block chevy cylinder heads. Also what to do when a stud breaks. I'll be Using the Generic SBC stud tool with a slight adaption to make it work with vortec heads. I tried a few different methods to pull the studs and hope some find the information in this video helpful when they do their own heads. The factory studs are being replaced with stronger 3/8 speedway motors chromoly studs. REMINDER use a thread locker or sealer on BOTH the intake and exhaust base threads because they are through holes and coolant or oil can seep.
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Speedway Motors studs 577RM348 amzn.to/38HHFzV
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7/16-14 four flute coated taps Taper, Plug, Bottom Quality USA made McMasterCarr.com
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[@BOOT]

Thx for watching, check out my Cylinder Heads Playlist & Subscribe kzbin.info/aero/PL7o4U7VWtLLc2cFgpyAE2_zQwuMBphoFc

[@b.s.adventures9421]

Good cheap diy for mild street engine. Thanx for posting

[@ohm1945]

Really good information, thanks for sharing. This is reality, things break, the tools are not always ideal and creativity comes into play.

[@BOOT]

Thanks, rare that things go perfect and just glad when I can figure it out w/o too much hassle.

[@CHEVYK10]

Looks great good job

[@chev666jb1]

Good job. Thanks for the video.

[@BOOT]

NP & thx, it was an interesting learning experience

[@joshbohner1712]

I did this on my old 441 heads while the motor was still in the truck used the alignment tool and a tapered plug tap it worked got them all in and done used red loctite tightened em up used roller tip rockers the alignment was off a lil on a cple made me nervous but put it back together fired her and she ran good so I’m rolling wit it

[@redneckasmr-xd1gg]

good info thank you👍

[@BOOT]

Glad to help!

[@MikeD-ey3sx]

Thanks for sharing, those pullers have no description when shopping.

[@erikturner5073]

Drilling and pinning will work in STREET applications with lifts .500 and under. Start going crazy like .520 and beyond is living on the edge. Either way, great vid!

[@BOOT]

Thanks! From my experience it's not the lift, it's the springs you need to not valve float with that lift! Bent some studs on 1984 heads with .480ish lift(can't rem exact cam but was sub .500) and comp 1.25ish springs(can't rem exactly but they were less than $50), well 1st they started to pull so I drilled n pinned(heads were replace after studs started bending). Also used 1.52 comp roller tip rockers. Think I read GM Started to use screw in studs with their Z28 springs and that it wasn't always an issue but enough that they decided the extra production cost was less than all the warranty work. Either way good insurance!

[@erikturner5073]

@@BOOT I was told that from an old timer who said that was a popular low buck trick they used to do back in the 70's. I've heard similar from a couple of other people. I'm gonna try it to help a buddy out. My buddy wants to do a cam swap in his 1994 Chevy Caprice with the 305 roller cam engine. He doesn't want to spend Alot of money, or do an engine swap so we're doing the bare essentials. Figure keep the cam at around .460 lift, keep the duration on the lower end with a 114 LSA. I figure it's better that the stock cam but nothing crazy. Also go crazy on the springs. Upgrade the fuel pump and change the fuel pressure regulator spring in the TBI if necessary. I guess we'll see what happens.

[@BOOT]

@@erikturner5073 Most cams are rpm/power-range rated for a 350 so with a 305 it's a good idea to stay mild since the smaller displacement will move the power range higher. The real limit is the TBI intake from what I've read, idk how soon it'll limit power with a 305 but I knew a guy who built a mild 383 and used the stock TBI & intake. It was really disappointing! The problem with the SBC is there is just no good oem efi to upgrade like the LS. Things can nickle n dime you for poor results and in the end you coulda saved up for a better aftermarket option or LS swap. Still depends on your goals and expectations.

[@erikturner5073]

@@BOOT I totally agree. Especially since the stock 305 heads will be the limiting factor as well. He has already put Moser gears and axles, 4:10 gear, gertile, and locker in the rear. Also he has either a 4l60 or 700r4. Either way it's non electronic. My suggestion to him is save up the money to do a 350 L31 and carb and intake swap, with a street cam, intank fuel pump upgrade etc... Or we can go to a yard and find a 4.8 or 5.3 LS with the computer and harness find a suitable car intake, do a cam swap, and springs put in a tune, and a small stall, with a Corvette servo in the trans, with his one hundred shot nitrous system. I think he would have a relatively low cost and FUN street car, even without the bottle. As they say, "You can only lead a horse to water".

[@BOOT]

@@erikturner5073 That's good advice! Hope he listens to you but as yah said, you can only provide the info. An Add-on trans cooler would be also good idea to help the trans last longer. Plumbed after the radiator, water cools better than air. One of the 1st things I did for my C4, course it already had the servo LOL TransGo kits are suppose to help a trans last longer but since you drive it more aggressive it prob evens out LOL To much stall can be hard on the 7.5 rearend, if you got traction.

[@mikef-gi2dg]

Vortec heads moved valve spacing, part of why they flow better. Easy mistake to make, I would have probably made it too. I think I would have used the tool anyway, need to start those threads right. I got a bunch of heads to practice on. Having a slotted tool might help, just got to get the threads started in center with a taper tap. Good job, save money, get experience.

[@TheBroLounge]

how do you torque down the new stud?

[@lindajones1592]

Just FYI...when you tapped the holes with the tool you had the tool upside down. The threaded portion of the block goes down toward the stud boss. This is because the threaded part of the tap isn't that long and you will run out of threads when trying to run the tap all the way down. It worked for you in this case because you just used it to get some threads started and then finished it without the tool but normally it wouldn't have worked that way.

[@BOOT]

Turn your playback speed down to 0.25 and click 23:26 You can see I have the tool unthreaded part up, I then slide the tap in/down to the threads, turn it only a few times just enough for it to poke thru. If I had the tool upside down it would have taken longer and more turns to poke. The tool is a guide to start the threads, once you start the threads you no longer need the tool. When tapping the start is critical

[@SPEEDOFDOG]

Very good info. Suppose you could have threaded that last shank?

[@BOOT]

Cut threads are not as strong as rolled threads, the rolling work hardens them.

[@aftershock2222]

Did you torque the studs or how tight? Oh, what size tap? Thanks.

[@BOOT]

7/16-14 and not yet. When I do use these heads since my studs don't have a shoulder nut I'll double nut the 3/8-24 and use threadlocker. When using threadlocker you should reduce the torque spec by up to 20%. I've not done it yet so can't say exactly what will work with the studs I have, I may just snug em good since the 3/8-24 is a lower torque spec n I'd like to get the nuts apart w/o too much hassle or damaging the stud.

[@Hammy1088]

I have a question. underneath the stud is there a hole where coolant can be exposed/come up if its not sealed?

[@BOOT]

4:12 mention that I like to use a thread locker(on all) but you can use thread sealer. 22:56 I point out the thru holes and caption a thread sealer reminder. You should also seal the intake studs as well since oil can seep into the runner. I'll add another reminder to the description, hope this helps.

[@Hammy1088]

@@BOOT appreciate it very helpful. Thank you

[@elliotrandazzo2094]

Can these studs be used with an upgraded cam? Do i need longer studs?

[@elliotrandazzo2094]

@BOOT

[@sethmorton8539]

On a 383 with Vortec heads what is the estimated torque on it

[@BOOT]

I wouldn't be able to estimate that. There may be builds online with similar parts and have the info your looking for.

[@pattygq]

Did you torque the studs in once finished? If so what torque? Did you use red loctite as well?

[@BOOT]

Not used them yet and the plan was to use blue loctite n double nut the stud and just get them good n tight.

[@pattygq]

@@BOOT I've asked around today and that seems to be the consensus. lower coolant level (if doing on the car), pull old stud, tap new threads, use silicon thread sealant or red loctite on new screw in stud, and double nut snug them up. Let silicon or loctite cure. Also pretty sure the exhaust studs go into the water jacket and the intakes on some heads are open to the intake runners.

[@BOOT]

On vortec heads intake goes into runner and exhaust into coolant, seal both. If you wanna be extra careful you could use a small paintbrush to put some thread sealer(RTV doesn't work well with gas sometimes) towards the bottom of the hole(not too deep for the stud) and then loctite the top few threads of the studs. Red will require heating up to 500 tah remove and any loctite there is a possibility it can cause a crack as it dries and expands. Also I'm not fond of doing it on engine but your call!

[@owenfranklin814]

After watching how hard it is to take these things out I'd say I'm gonna leave mine lol

[@BOOT]

They don't have to pull out much to mess things up.

[@raystevens687]

Just make new threads do your of washers oh heat it up before you do the washers. I'm thinking it will work.

[@puttervids472]

Great video. But I can’t help but say that although I get the graphite reference. Lube helps everything. Lol. A drop of oil would have helped the sound if nothing else. Makes my skin crawl to hear a tap with no lube.

[@BOOT]

From what I've researched you do it dry because it machines better that way. I just looked into it again and found something bout fine dust is produced when working with cast iron and oil will make it stick to the tap or w/e. A high volume of machining coolant would prob wash it away as well as cool in production

[@christianwise4403]

We used to use oil or kerosene when tapping cast iron I’ve seen both methods mentioned online I’d suggest something thin like kerosene if nothing else it keeps dust down holds to tap and can be wiped clean

[@puttervids472]

@@christianwise4403 kerosene works. I personally like pb blaster in a pinch. It’s almost exactly the consistency of kerosene with a dash of machine oil.

[@johnmilner7603]

Why not just make the tool with the threads at one end.

[@BOOT]

I bought the Summit Racing tool that is used to remove the studs and as a tap guide. I am aware of a few more expensive stud only pulling tools but I feel the free-to-me pivot balls work well & fast enough for a budget project. Besides if I spend too much why not just pay the machine shop? I plan to pull the studs on my next vortec crate engine set the same way and then have a shop mill for guide plates and tap.

[@BOOT]

Making my own version of the more expensive pulling tool might be an interesting future project. Thx for your input.

[@jasonbuben2708]

That’s a lot of brake cleaner

[@michaeldose2041]

Straight enough? LOL I don't think that is straight is a relative term, but okay good job.