The Ultimate Guide to Applying a REAL Undercoating: Surface Shield, Fluid Film, & Woolwax

[@RepairGeek]

Links to the products and the tools in this video: Amber: Surface Shield 5gal: amzn.to/3D3KE9Q Fluid Film 5gal: amzn.to/3D3L3ZU Woolwax 5gal: amzn.to/4g4O22N Black: Surface Shield: amzn.to/41LPMKn Fluid Film: amzn.to/3ONR53y Woolwax: amzn.to/3ZOcWOs Graphite Powder to make your own black: amzn.to/4gt0KZ1 Spray Gun: WW Pro Gun: amzn.to/3VwWVKr Lemmer ($$$): amzn.to/4iupZw4 Aerosol: SS: amzn.to/3BmnTgT Fluid Film: amzn.to/4guYTDj Woolwax: amzn.to/3ZriugK Cavity wand: amzn.to/3ZNi85v Needle Scaler: amzn.to/3Dbnrmo Salt's Gone: amzn.to/3D4FMRP Pump Sprayer: amzn.to/3VuoB2B My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[@PissedOff-m2z]

Central Ohio here . Frequent winter washings work as well

[@1984Cutlass2nv]

I bought Surface shield in a 4L pail based on your testing. It appears to be holding up well. However I bought an aerosol can to get a few areas I had missed when the 4L pail was empty and the can plugged up before I half used it. I was extremely careful to use it warm coming from inside the house and shook it up very well before beginning spraying. I got maybe 5 minutes of use before the can plugged up and is unusable now. I will have to get in contact with blaster customer service. Maybe you can help me with that?

[@julianh7853]

I just wanted to say thank you so much for all the videos that you've created on this matter. I've been watching your content on and off for a couple of years now. You're a no-nonsense person and it's really apparent from your emphatic delivery and the effort that you put into these videos that you genuine care about helping people with their automotive corrosion woes and do so out of principle and integrity rather than to simply garner KZbin views and revenue. You will save a lot of people a lot of heartache when navigating the minefield of anti-corrosion coatings, paints and treatments. Thanks again and you really deserve all the success that you have attained as a KZbinr.

[@haxguy0]

Echoing the same sentiments

[@andrewsamanthamadison3320]

Sprayed my ‘24 F350 with SS. Can’t speak higher of how easy it was. Your videos guided me that way. Thank you!

[@Runmaerun]

Undercoated my new 4R with Fluid Film all thanks to the videos you have posted over the years. I don’t have a lift but drove up on ramps and then used the wool wax sprayer with my compressor. I also made a plastic skirt around the bottom so that any overspray stayed contained. Thanks so much for these videos!

[@kenj.8897]

Just did my new 2025 vehicle , I wrapped my vehicle like a Xmas present with visqueen so I didn't have my exterior topside covered with the mist . Surface Shield is the best product, it doesn't wash off

[@ManuelsManualTransmission]

In the fall, I did the underside of my old truck with three cans of Fluid Film Black and a fourth can of standard for cavities. We've had a lot slush lately. When walking back to the truck from a Costco trip, I saw the rear differential, glistening and black and protected. Looked great, and I'm excited to hit other vehicles.

[@ericvaughn1126]

Appreciate the detailed long format, brother. Mustie1 and James Condon don't apologize for long format videos and neither should you. Quality, detailed content is worth it!

[@SchulzChris]

Thanks so much for making this video. My current truck is 20 yrs old and is rotted out. Getting ready to buy my next truck and I will be doing this treatment for sure, especially when you look at the extreme costs of new trucks.

[@Nimrodwithagun]

Thanks for this all-in-one video. I'm going to leave my experience with lanolin coatings in case it helps anyone who watches it in the future. I've only done it once as of now. I sprayed wool wax on a low mileage 2003 Tundra I bought in September (2024). It was quite clean for my state, Minnesota, but there was a good bit of rust on the rear end of the frame, rear bumper, and on the leaf springs. It took me 8 aerosol cans to thoroughly coat everything, and it took me 5 hours total over two days. I hit the undercarriage with a wire brush first and then sprayed after. I didn't put the truck on jacks or anything, I just slid around underneath. (You shouldn't do it this way, I will definitely raise it in the future) I used the black cans, and I should note that the spray left stains on the ground under the truck, so if you don't want a shadow on your driveway or garage floor, you should try to cover the ground, or use the clear stuff. Wool Wax definitely has a smell, but it goes away after a day or two. I wore a respirator while spraying. Thanks again for making this and you past videos, they've been very helpful.

[@025451140]

I’ve undercoated a few vehicles with no issues thanks to all the info you provide on your videos Thank you so much!

[@Marcus007]

I've done all 3 of my cars based on his vids. I think I know a few ways to do this much cheaper and IMO easier than he recommends. I agree with most of what he says - but not all: 1. 97% of what he says I agree with - I trust him. 2. I have a lift so that will make a difference. 3. REMOVING RUST I put far more time into wire brushing (drill with a wire wheel) as much of the rust away as possible - between 3 and 15 hours per car. After doing a recoat I think this is the way to go. Other than the plastic panels I did not dismantle my car like he did with his Mustang. If you don't dismantle the vehicle a must to reach the hard spots way up in the undercarriage is get a few of the longest drill extensions you can find - about 12-16 inches (Amazon $13 per pair I got 2 pair). I wear a 1 piece face shield and respirator (Amazon $30) to make sure the product stays out of my face and to protect my eyes & lungs - I very highly recommend this and would not do it without. FUN FACT - the skin that makes yr eyeball is the fastest healing skin in yr body and can grow over rust/metal overnight requiring a Dr to pick that eyeball skin away with a needle to remove the rust beneath! Ask me how I know! HOT TIP- Wear a full face mask respirator. If you wear a thick leather glove you can hold the spinning extension to apply pressure - this is another must IMO. You will need an assortment of wire brushes I used a 2 inch wheel, a 3 inch wheel and a 1 inch end brush which (surprisingly)is the most useful one (Amazon $9 per set I got 2 sets). 3. RUST NEUTRALIZE I also use phosphorus to rust naturalize. After you put in hours removing the rust it only takes another hour to rust neutralize and it is a good way to cap off the day because it is best to let it dry overnight. I use a 2 inch brush to apply it. The cans may say dries in an hour - trust me for the first coat let it dry overnight and you will see how much better it looks than an hour later. If you do this - 100% use a respirator and face mask that is nasty stuff and will hurt yr eyes and skin. I also use gloves that are so long they go past my elbow (Amazon $17). I tried a few rust neutralizers based on his recommendations and recommend the thin watery type that dries like he used on his Mustang. DO NOT the get type that you have to wash off bc then you get surface rust again and it is a little like groundhog day. I use POR 15 rust neutralizer (Amazon $30). Against instructions, I put it on and do not take it off - I just keep it wet for 1/2 hour, let it dry overnight, next morning I wipe off any white residue, another coat of it any place needed the, let it dry an hour or so, and then I lanoline over it. 4. LANOLIN APPLICATION HOT TAKE - I don't use a sprayer for 90% of it - I use a 2 inch $5 Home Depot paintbrush with a makeshift 3 foot hdpe pipe extension. Sounds janky but it works well. This is true of both the rust neutralizer and the lanolin. I keep a pail with some rust neutralizer or the lanolin on the floor below the car on the lift and the 3ft hdpe extension over the paint handle and it's the perfect length - long enough to reach the product on the floor, and can reach anywhere deep in the undercarriage, and all while keeping the product off my hands and away from my face. Why do I use a paintbrush and the Woolwax sprayer which I have? A few reasons. 1. I don't want to spray that toxic stuff in the air and hope the respirator catches it all; 2. IMO it's easier; 3. less smell; 4. IMO a better application because you are messaging the product into all the cracks and seams and rust and that IS better application than just laying it on top; 5. turns out you use less product this way I did 3 vehicles with 1 gallon of Blaster and about 10 spray cans mix of Blaster and Fluid Film (in the end maybe 5 cans used because 50% of Blaster cans fail within minutes); 6. Much less dripping afterwards bc the brush does not pile on product that will drip off. That said - You still will need spray cans for some hard spots and inside the chassis. I did ultimately get the Woolwax sprayer he recommends and it works great - far better than the cans - but I still prefer the brush for most of the application. But you have to get something that sprays to get inside chassis rails, doors etc. 5. FLUID FILM vs. BLASTER - I used a 1 gal bucket of Blaster and 10 spray cans of both Blaster and Fluid Film. Frankly, I cant tell the difference - they look the same, they feel the same between yr fingers, they smell the same, they apply the same, a year later they still seem and performed the same. So in bucket form either pick is the same. BUT they do not spray the same - AVOID the Blaster spray cans as 50% of them clogged on me before 1/2 used. Fluid Film cans never clogged at all - and it was not the caps it was the can/products. You can get extensions for the cans but IMO they all stink. They clog, they don't spray enough product, the caps fall off, the hoses come off. And forget about spray can Blaster with the extensions bc they will clog right away. In the end I probably spent $70 on the can extensions, caps, hoses, wands and it was a waste as I still had to get the Woolwax kit. I am interested in trying Woolwax lanolin product and would probably buy it next time now that I got the pro spray gun. I have seen it sprayed with a spray gun and it has almost zero smell. And WW has better wash off resistance too. 6. REAPLICATION - Reapplication the first time should be done in 6 months not a year but it is no big deal and touch up takes only 40 mins. I do it during oil changes. I don't think you need to spray the whole car or get it all wet looking just use yr judgment about where there is enough product and where there is not - you can see it. I will quickly (20 minutes) wire brush any new rust spots then use a 2 inch brush to apply phosphorous acid again but no overnight dry - just apply, keep wet for 20 mins, dry and apply lanolin on top. 7. ANOTHER MUST HAVE PRODUCT - CRC - Product does come off and in some expected and some unexpected places. This year In areas that have high wash like front of front lower control arms, some wheel well spots, etc., I used some CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor over the treated rust and then put Blaster/FF on top of the CRC. CRC performed well in his tests and is like a soft wax so it does not trap water but it wont wash off. I did my cowl with it and a few other spots and it is really impressive. We'll see what it looks like in 6 months and a year. In theory, If you have a new car, CRC + lanolin may be the ideal choice because the CRC does not wash off at all but at the expense that it has zero migration so if when you get rock chips it will expose the metal. But if you have lanolin on top of the CRC you get protection from road salt in a product that wont wash off and lanolin gives you the migration protection from road chips. On the other hand, lanolin will come off with soap and a power washer but CRC requires mineral spirits so that's a consideration too. Still, really like it for delicate and high wash spots. Anyway, that's my experience.

[@jasoncharles6980]

You lost me when you said Fluid Film and Surface Shield smell the same.

[@Marcus007]

@@jasoncharles6980 They may not smell exactly the same but close enough and neither good. And both smells go away in about the same time so...

[@FreyGrimrod]

So unfortunate the youtube algorithm hates folks skipping around as these chaptered videos are so useful.

[@ConnorBe]

FYI - if you don’t have a compressor to spray undercoating yourself, use a cheap electric paint sprayer. I did my car that way this fall using fluid film. Messy but works great.

[@jerrytroup3796]

Nice video. Maybe I'll play this on repeat in our waiting room.

[@gnawty4662]

Just want to say thank you for making these videos, putting yourself out there, and informing all of us. I am on year two using surface shield. DIY’d it the 2nd time, and looking forward to this one to see where I can improve.

[@scotw67]

Hands down one of my go to channels. Thx so much for all you do. Your ZR2 video was instrumental in my truck buying decision. 2021 ZR2 bought new in JUL2021; zero issues/40,000 miles.

[@RR-fi4oh]

Thank you for so many years of content/updates.

[@sbond1963]

One of the best rust proofing videos on the Internet thank you. One comment. I have used various kinds of rust preventatives over the years on multiple vehicles. Your method works best for used vehicles 5+ years old in heavy salt use locations or if rust is showing in areas like the subframe. Don’t forget spraying inside the subframe. New or no rust, cosmoline wax is the way to go. It’s slightly tacky, self heals and creeps in the summer or when it’s hot. In the winter, it hardens and repels sand salt and dirt. So it stays cleaner. Requires less touchups. Two coats can last five years or more depending on conditions. Wax is also a good choice for GM frames dipped in wax from the factory. Unless they are rusted and the wax is gone, then the oil is the way to go.

[@retro_grade]

Great video! I started with Fluid Film years ago, when searching on forums about how to prevent rust on our FJ Cruiser. Then, went to Wool Wax in 2019 after buying a brand new Tacoma....first thing I did when I got it home. I recently used Surface Shield on a Ralliart that I had last season and wanted to drive in the snow (underside was still fairly clean). Your anaysis of the products is spot on. They're all great in their own way, just depends on what your intent is. Wool Wax is EXTREMELY difficult to put on with the sprayer - having a decent compressor and getting it warm is everything. You can find Fluid Film and Surface Shield in cans on clearance from time to time as well - I've snagged Fluid film on clearance at $4 per can at Academy Sports, $6 per can at Home Depot.....Surface Shield at like $7 per can at Autozone. Bought every one they had on the shelf when I find them at that price. The Wool Wax I used on the majority of the FJ Cruiser and Tacoma a couple of seasons ago is still on there. Probably need to refresh it this season, but didn't get around to it. We don't get as much salt here anyways, and I hopefully won't be driving north to the "salted" states much this year.....

[@donlarsenjr2332]

Another great and comprehensive video. Thanks for such great content. You rock.

[@JosephDredd31]

I just bought this month a 2022 GMC (Used of course) and bought the applicator you recommended from your past video's. Along with a gallon of both Surface Shield and Fluid Film. I'm waiting for the weather to where I can use the long wands but I'm afraid I missed the opportunity until spring. I was able to use as many can's (about 6 ) that I could see from underneath because that's all I could do for now. I'm in the salt belt of Western N.Y. I can't tell you enough how grateful I am that I found your channel . Regards Joseph.

[@derekbonevelle]

Took your advice and went with Surface Shield on my new 2025 Civic Sport. Took me probably 6 hours but most of that was taking off the plastic shields under the car. It was well worth it, though. Appreciate you!

[@zacharyquinn3676]

Just got a ‘25 civic myself. Did you spray into any holes in the unibody, or just the undercarriage? Do the felted panels absorb the surface shield?

[@kenj.8897]

​@@zacharyquinn3676you have to remove the panels

[@Regilliwret]

Fantastic video. Actually answered a couple questions I’ve had about the spraying equipment since I know nothing about sprayers. Been watching these videos for the last few years and have watched all of your rust proofing videos, excellent stuff. I send your videos to friends and family interested in rust proofing because you cover everything in a single playlist (and now a single 77min video). If you’re looking for video ideas, a crash course on lifts would be great (the different types, shop space requirements, things to look for in a lift, walkthrough of how the installation goes and of general usage and maintenance, tips and tricks you’ve learned over the years). I’d like to get one but I don’t know where to start, nor do I know anything about them. Thank you for all the time and effort you have put and will put into these videos.

[@RepairGeek]

Thats a good idea. I'll put it on the list.

[@francoutah]

Thanks, Dude. Extremely valuable information. This is the only video any DIYer needs. Fluid Film saved my 1st gen Tacoma frame. *Warning to anyone who is considering using phosphoric acid: Wear rain gear or a hazmat suit. The concentrated acid can give you 3td degree burns. Also, it eats through concrete. "Safety 1st"

[@peterc6738]

Fantastic video. Thank you very much for all the great information you've provided. Keep up the great work.👍

[@FRIVZ306]

Awesome video!!! I already coated my underbody for the year with a darn brush and aerosol can took me a damn long time. Looking forward to upgrading next year!! Thank you

[@riceburner4747]

Excellent, EXCELLENT, video. I KNOW u hate doing undercoating videos & feel burnt out doing them, but I've watched all your videos over & over & will with this one TOO. Thank u for doing a CAR. I have mine done (hybrid) every Spring, but shoot spots myself during the rest of the year with cans. I STILL learned alot from this video. I reside in your neighborly state of PA, had a used 97 Camry that would STILL be on the road if it wasn't for rust. 👍🖖🇺🇸

[@DearSX]

Love this, thanks! Always like updates to this process :)

[@bigjobford1956]

Thanks to you and your videos. I bought surface shield and the gun you recommended now all I gotta do is getter done.

[@michaelotoole1807]

thank you for this instruction manual. Very well done.

[@hammerfest316]

Another awesome undercoating video. Thank you

[@davidm.8309]

Thank you! Best video I have seen on this, especially the details on getting into cavities like the rear wheel arches. With the price of cars now everyone needs to be aware of these products and using them. I used rattle cans of fluid film with the long flexible wand which was excellent in getting into tight areas and spraying a fine mist in multiple directions.

[@landscapingspecialist]

Perfect write up for undercoating nerds like myself. Nice job. 🙌🏻

[@bw6078]

Thank you for all the information you shared. I really appreciated your information regarding the air pressure needed for application in regard to atomization of the product. All the best.

[@jasoncharles6980]

Perfect wrap up video to the series. All your time and effort on everything undercoating is much appreciated. There’s two products I’m anxiously awaiting Project Farm to do. Surface Shield and the new Valvoline Restore & Protect as I’ve gone exclusively to both. Thanks again.

[@RepairGeek]

I have restore/protect on my idea board. It's going to take a year probably to get enough miles to see any change.

[@jasoncharles6980]

@ I’m happy to hear that. You and Project Farm are the best on KZbin IMO. The effort put in is unmatched.

[@flapjackson6077]

Dude, been watching your vids for the last three years. Your undercoating vids are a true service! This video is a perfect compendium to all your previous videos. I live in western PA, and recently I used FF on my truck. 1-1/4 gallons was all I needed for my F250. Surface Shield is about 70-80 bucks a gallon versus Fluid Film at around 50. I think I’ll give SS a shot next fall. It seems to have the creeping ability of FF but with the ability to set like WW. I reckon it’s the formula ratio of solvent to lanolin, but I’m intrigued! Great job! 🙏🏻👍

[@RepairGeek]

No solvents. 😎

[@flapjackson6077]

@@RepairGeek 😂 Guilty as charged! I should’ve given more thought to that, as you’ve stated that in previous Vids. What I should’ve said is that I suspect there’s a proprietary formulation with SS that allows it to apply or initially run thin, but which thickens up. I’m thinking maybe it has to do with manipulating the thixotropic properties of the formulation. Or giving it a good stirring to thin it out might be the key. Introducing air when mixing? Lol 👍

[@RepairGeek]

​@flapjackson6077 it's the thixotropics and SS has some ingredients the others don't.

[@kemsss4103]

Looking from France .. Very nice video and nice chanel thx for sharing your experience !

[@adsbadsb9488]

Stuff old newspapers in the backs of rims to keep spray off brake pads & rotors. You can always brush some on back plates etc...

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

I tend to use the hoses regardless to keep Lactic acid from building up in my arms. It's easier to hold the hose above your head.

[@landscapingspecialist]

Yeah the wands are great to use for hard to reach areas. I bought 2 of those kits. They have great products all around. I’d recommend them as well. Been using the wool wax products about 10 years.

[@Cire3PC]

Just purchased my first kit. Great video ! Sick of my expeditions rotting the bottom out.

[@TheCaperfish]

been doing this to my vehicles for years , any new vehicle ya want to do its first coat in the peak of the summer , the heat and driving at highway speeds will migrate the FF into all the seams the best , then hit it again in oct before they start laying salt . , ya need to get that first 2 coats on before salt gets into the seams , then I do it every October after that with touch ups on high splash areas every oil change , the hoist makes it a dream to do .

[@rosehebert7989]

Thanks for your videos they are informative and helpful and I know I get more info every time I watch Thank you

[@BrettBeckham]

Great video! I agree to spray the GM wax frame. Some product should creep behind flakey pieces of the original wax coating. As the original wax coating does flake off, more lanolin product will just need to be applied as well.

[@nimas.1415]

Thanks for your diligence on this subject, just coated the underside of my Toyota Tundra last week. It was nearly two hours, a gallon and a half of product, and I still missed quite a few areas.

[@rickyn1858]

Great how to video!!!!I agree with the 3 Lanolin products you are using are great!... I will say the blaster is cheaper in Aerosol cans vs fluid film

[@on-site4094]

All I can say is great info & education thanks for sharing 👍 u won’t be fired you’ll be promoted for marketing the product

[@robertolallave1541]

Thank you so much. I'm definitely going to do !!!

[@21jimmyo]

I've been using FF and now SS for about four years now. I spilt the cost of the 5 gal bucket with a friend of mine. I have a lift and compressor, and we spray all our cars. Now when I pull the plugs in the rockers, there's still product inside. The only areas that need a heavy application are the areas that get splashed the most.

[@brucekrolikowski2882]

Thank you, your videos are the best on this subject.

[@jamesmarlar696]

So I have used Surface shield for couple years and I have used on three or more vehicles each year. I do have to heat in a crock pot the surface shield to spray. I do love the coverage and protection achieved and as far as individual cans there is a huge difference as it won’t stay deep enough in frame and inside body panels as the sprayer with hose extension but whatever you decide just do it

[@northerntoyota7584]

Great video, I’m in Nova Scotia where vehicles rust just sitting outside. I do everything like you illustrated, even have multiple spray guns to do just as you showed. It is 100% necessary if you want your vehicle to stay rust free. I laugh when people say use 2-3 spray cans to do your 1/2 ton truck. I use rust check coat and protect (not the red can you tested awhile back) also use kleen Flo honey goo in areas prone to wash off as is stays on like glue. You should review this product. I’ve had very good results, only thing is I can’t find it in bulk.

[@RepairGeek]

Being an American, I can't get my hands on it. Honey Goo only sells in Canada.

[@northerntoyota7584]

@ I didn’t know that, it tacks up like a glue almost. Put it on axels and leading side of control arms, running board brackets etc. hasn’t washed off in several years. fluid film is $20/can up here and washes off similar to rust check coat and protect in these areas I mentioned.

[@andylink5818]

Great work! Thanks

[@landscapingspecialist]

I have also found that the straw color collects road grime and turns black fairly quickly anyway. I’ve never tried the black. Have gone through probably 10 buckets over the years. Always just gone w the straw color.

[@toddbowser9415]

When I undercoat, I use a torpedo heater faced on my undercarriage to get it good & hot. This is a VERY IMPORTANT step!! If the metal is hot your solvent whatever you choose to use will stick MUCH BETTER. I also respectfully disagree with you on using undercoating on the bottom side. I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy & I use Rusfree rubberized undercoating on the underside with everything good & HOT, then I use a lanolin product in the jams, inside the rockers, doors,& quarter panels, & all the small holes on the underside. I did this Subee when I first got it,& it looks as good as when I first bought it! It will literally be the 1st vehicle I’ve EVER owned that the drivetrain will fail before the body will. Oh & I live in the rustbelt of western PA

[@landscapingspecialist]

You can use an aquarium water heater to heat the product in the bucket too. I just put a small space heater on the bucket though. Just don’t put the bottles too close to the heater for too long. I had a guy forget one and melted one last year.

[@DK-vx1zc]

Great coverage

[@landscapingspecialist]

We have one of those pressure washer rigs that have multiple nozzles and slide on wheels for getting underneath truck washing salt and dirt off before we coat. Helps to have a hotsy. Never used salts gone product, gonna look into that.

[@landscapingspecialist]

I use wool wax. Straw color. Spray the trucks, spreaders and plows yearly. Works well. Go through about 5 gallons a year on our 5 trucks and 4 plows. The wool wax smells like stink bugs to me. I could care less as I wear a respirator when applying it. Oh and yes, I have to heat the wool wax w small space heater if we apply it below about 40°F.

[@dragop5698]

Good video, see your using Stanadyne diesel fuel conditioner... good choice, I use it all the time too for 20 years now

[@RepairGeek]

Your opinion is going to change soon. Mine did. Lake Speed JR and I are working on something 😉

[@dragop5698]

@@RepairGeek Ok I'll wait for your report

[@thecoolestever1]

What are the differences between the spray cans and bulk? Wash off resistance, protection, thickness, etc...

[@jerrytroup3796]

The gm waxed frames started circa 2001. Our 2008 shop truck looks like brand new underneath. Treated the wax coating with woolwax years ago

[@RepairGeek]

Noted. I was thinking about this TSB that I'm sure you've seen listing 2011: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169340-9999.pdf

[@johncraig406]

Thank you, you steered me onto Fluid Film a long long time ago, and I talk it up to my friends and link to your videos every chance that I get.... but, just yesterday, I got a Copyright Violation notice from KZbin because I posted up a YT video on FB over 5 years ago.... if I get another Violation, they will take my personal YT channel down..... I am very "popular", 🤑 almost 20 short 30 second videos...

[@Ram14250]

Excellent Video! Thank you! 😊

[@rotor676]

Thx man. Excellent Vid

[@dancpavo]

Great video. Would lanolin “creep” under PPF? Block sunroof drains?

[@richb8282]

Great vid

[@TheGhostrose]

Have you ever had problems with rubber suspension components after spraying?

[@DanS-n6h]

Excellent video's. I just purchased SS and FF with the sprayer and tubes to spray my 23 Frontier. Dure to the lower temps the SS was purchased after FF. So, SS will be used this year, my question is, how far out from the truck can I expect the overspray to reach? I'll be laying down plastic and want to buy enough of it.

[@pjz7088]

11:34 "Hey what should we call our product?" 😏

[@shane6154]

Where does one find that Surface Shield Black can with the blast trigger that you show off at 13:19? I haven't seen it prior to this and I can't seem to find it anywhere doing an online search (including the Blaster site). That would be ideal for my needs!

[@RepairGeek]

O'Reilly has it in their warehouse. Search for SS on O'Reilly website and you'll find it.

[@mercedesmaintenance.6339]

Great video! Thank you for all the info.

[@johnreese8278]

Excellent, thanks!

[@Bloodbain88]

If you think woolwax smells okay, you should try NHoil. That stuff smells so good I would walk past my truck just so I could smell it. And thats crazy. I've always used Fluid Film with excellent results. I've coated many many cars and trucks. After the second coat, it's so thick on there nothing is getting through it. But I recently tried NHoil. The NHoil creeps like nothing else I've used, but it seems to wash off easier than FF. I think I might try some of that surface shield next go around.

[@RepairGeek]

I tested NH Oil 5 years ago. It didn't hold up as well as what I have featured here.

[@barrymccaulkiner7092]

I just bought a brand new car and live in the rust belt. Thank you for these videos. Is it ever too soon to undercoat?

[@RepairGeek]

No

[@Prepare2Survive]

What's your thoughts on spraying the exhaust with high temp barbecue grill paint to help keep it from rusting as fast?

[@dregsta]

Lol get a stainless steel exhaust and call it a day.

[@Prepare2Survive]

@@dregsta Stainless steel eventually still rusts. A couple cans of spray paint from the hardware store only costs 10 bucks.

[@dregsta]

@@Prepare2Survive I have a full line stainless steel exhaust from the header all the way to muffler and 0 rust . Its on the car for at least 10 years . Only gaskets I had to replace . I live in Qc and we salt the roads like theres no tomorrow

[@Prepare2Survive]

@@dregsta Okay, and what's the point you're trying to make? I hope it's not that stainless steel doesn't rust because it most certainly still does. Yes, it takes longer, but it still rusts and why should someone have to buy a brand new expensive exhaust system when the one on their car currently has no rust anyway and they are just wanting to spend 10 bucks on spray paint so it'll last 20 years instead of 10 years. Are you really trying to claim that 10 bucks is not worth an extra 10 years, but 1000+ bucks on a stainless exhaust is?

[@dregsta]

@@Prepare2Survive my point is that it doesn’t RUST. Performance SAE 304 stainless steel exhaust

[@acwright]

I lay it on thick in early fall when the nights are cool

[@astyn3117]

God Bless you man… your dedication is amazing!! We all appreciate what you do thank you for your time.. !!

[@vas568]

Subscribed!

[@BBDos]

Thank you for this. Does the fluid film need time to cure before driving?

[@RepairGeek]

Not usually. My only word of caution would be don't drive through a monsoon right after you spray it. Because it's thixotropic after couple of days it will thicken up on the frame.

[@danielb-c9100]

do you spray inside the bedsides of a pickup truck

[@DuskSolution33]

I do the salt alway collects there

[@DuskSolution33]

I do the salt always collects there

[@kenj.8897]

Yes

[@Mcdamn1026]

Yes that is a must. Coat as much as you can

[@ScottRecker]

Do they have a good adapter for the nozzle of the aerosol surface shield like woolwax or is it just the small red straw? Kind of like the extensions for your spray gun?

[@RepairGeek]

It's in development.

[@tomconnors6310]

Interesting video. I would find that therapeutic and I am a perfectionist so I would be right into that, but like you say you need a lift.

[@donlarsenjr2332]

Quick question. Are these three products compatible with each other? If I applied fluid film last year can I reapply this year with surface shield over the top of FF or WW?

[@RepairGeek]

Yes.

[@landscapingspecialist]

I’ve never had any issues with the wands cracking. And we use them a lot. Good to note though.

[@landscapingspecialist]

I don’t have any GM trucks newer than 2011. My oldest is an 04 gmc. And I spray it with the rest of them. But I’d spray TF out of it regardless of factory frame wax.

[@Zip_kong]

I wanted to ask what do you think about coating a rotted-out quarter panel that you plan on repairing? is it best to just wait until after so there's less of a fire hazard while welding.... Actually i answered my own question

[@landscapingspecialist]

Yeah, wool wax pressure I run exactly like you said. 80-100 psi. Rarely 100. 80psi if it’s above 50°. 90psi if it’s closer to 40°

[@jllupin33]

Wouldn’t the fluid film be bad hitting belts in engine bay causing belt slippage? That was my only concern on spraying in engine bay, otherwise I plan to do everything else on my truck 😊

[@Methodical2]

Whatever you calculate you will need add at least 50%. Also, use a top on the bucket of hot water to keep the water hot longer.

[@reigndown]

I have two questions for you. 1, do you know if NHOU and Lanolin products play well together? I've had my vehicle done professionally with NHOU because in New England there are about 3-4 times as many places that apply that professionally vs Fluid Film, but I'd like to maintain the high wash areas myself with surface shield, since it's available in aerosol cans near me. 2. Do you know if the inner cavity wand you linked works well with the Surface Shield aerosol cans since you work for them? The surface shield cans are already hit or miss with whether or not product will leak a bunch out from under the spray cap sometimes, and i don't wanna waste a bunch of product. Thanks so much for your info and i look forward to your reply!!!

[@kostasg3412]

A couple of rust proofing shops told me they use compressed air to remove the loose rust flakes from the underside of vehicles before they spray Fluid Film. Is this an effective method for removing loose rust from the vehicle? I believe a hammer, brush with metal bristles or screwdriver are better. What are your thoughts?

[@yeti_lbz2516]

What about dry ice blasting to get it off?!

[@RepairGeek]

$$$$

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

I've had fluid film mold before. Still sprayed though.

[@tr0nix1]

Id love to hear your thoughts on woolax hard on permanent lanolin.

[@RepairGeek]

I don't believe that product is actually lanolin. I use the 3 I featured here for a reason, they work. You can't spray Hard On or Creep & Crawl over rust. They will flake off.

[@andywrites2141]

Does the cavity wand from kbs that you have linked work with surface shield aerosol cans? Add says not recomended. I want to stay with surface shield but have had issues in the past with other such wands.

[@pumafeet10]

Are any of these good for high heat areas, like in the exhaust tunnel under a heat shield , I have a highly modified turbo car that has 1000 degree egts, but need to protect the Chas underneath

[@RepairGeek]

You can try it. Worst case it will heat up, get thin, and drip off.

[@diytwoincollege7079]

Might be a silly question, but does an automatic car wash take the coating off?

[@Bora_H]

The 3M Paint and Rust Stripper wheel is perfect for cleaning up crud. It's like a Scotch Brite pad from hell...

[@alejander456]

What about a base of Crc. Then a film.