MOST Rust Converters Are A JOKE! Let Me Show You. (Eastwood, KBS, Corroseal, Ospho & More)

[@RepairGeek]

Products used in this video: Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3deOHjH Rust Eater: amzn.to/2ZQhMi8 Ospho: amzn.to/3xQ4peB VHT: amzn.to/3xUhEKZ Corroseal: amzn.to/3rvJL28 Loctite: amzn.to/3Dnq6DC Rustoleum: amzn.to/3okblgB KBS: amzn.to/2ZXs1S0 My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[@jorgemagoo27]

Use benjamin moore rust arrestor

[@cdoublejj]

i've been using krud cutter form walmart in the gallon, brush on. got it based on word of mouth reviews. wonder how it would do. i skimmed this video. also i once sand blasted and brushed the krud cutter on over all teeny tiny pin holes that the glass bead could not reach.

[@RoadsideGarage]

Dude adhesion test? Regardless of what you use, even paint, primer or whatever. The surface has to be prepped. The thing is rust converters chemicaly changes the rust. The prime goal is to stop rusting. Not some adhesion or chip test due to impacts. Most everything would fail.

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

The Rustoelum Rust Reformer paint no longer has tannic acid. Now it is more like an "etching primer" with zinc and an acid to activate the zinc. Acetone 67-64-1 25-50 GHS02-GHS07 H225-319-332-336 Propane 74-98-6 10-25 GHS04 H280 n-Butyl Acetate 123-86-4 10-25 GHS02-GHS07 H226-336 n-Butane 106-97-8 2.5-10 GHS04 H280 Hydrous Magnesium Silicate 14807-96-6 2.5-10 Not Available Not Available Xylenes (o-, m-, p- Isomers) 1330-20-7 2.5-10 GHS02-GHS07 H226-315-319-332 Dimethyl Carbonate 616-38-6 2.5-10 GHS02-GHS06 H225-331 Hydrotreated Light Distillate 64742-47-8 1.0-2.5 GHS08 H304 Carbon Black 1333-86-4 0.1-1.0 Not Available Not Available Ethylbenzene 100-41-4 0.1-1.0 GHS02-GHS07- GHS08 H225-304-332-351-373 Naphtha (Petroleum), Heavy Aromatic 64742-94-5 0.1-1.0 GHS07-GHS08 H304-332 Solvent Naphtha, Light Aromatic 64742-95-6 0.1-1.0 GHS07-GHS08 H304-332 Zinc Phosphate 7779-90-0 0.1-1.0 Not Available Not Available Sulfonic Acids, petroleum, calcium salts, overbased 68783-96-0 0.1-1.0 GHS06 H330 Zinc Oxide 1314-13-2 0.1-1.0 Not Available Not Available Methyl Ethyl Ketoxime 96-29-7 0.1-1.0 GHS05-GHS06- GHS07-GHS08 H302-312-315-317-318-331-336 -350-370-373 1,2,4,5-Tetramethylbenzene

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

@@cdoublejj Brush? You can spray it on like windex.

[@chrisgraham2904]

The only product I've used in Canada is a rust converter made by Rust Check. It's a phosphoric acid formula with the consistency of water that can be brushed or sprayed. It does convert iron oxide (rust) to ferric phosphate. Once converted the actual ferric phosphate does not rust...it's chemically impossible. Re-rusting occurs when the product fails to convert all the rust and rust is left behind. Re-rusting also occurs when barriers are breached allowing moisture and oxygen to reach the virgin metal under the ferric phosphate, so it's the virgin metal rusting this time. When a rust converter is applied to rust, the converter must remain wet for a period of time to allow the formula to soak into the rust all the way to the bare virgin metal. Applying a rust converter just as a film on top of rust has little or no value. Start by removing as much visible rust as humanly possible or reasonable by grinding, wire wheels, sanding or your preferred method. Apply the first coat of rust converter as an indicator tool. When it converts and turns the remaining rust black and it's now more visible, now it's time to sand, grind and remove as much of the black converted ferric phosphate as possible. For auto body panel repair, use a Dremel tool with a precision grinding bit to attack as many remaining black specs that you can, like the dentist does a root canal with his drills. Now you should have shinny metal with very minor black specks remaining. Now apply 2 coats of rust converter, again keeping it wet to penetrate into the pits of the metal. Allow the final coat of rust converter to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying a quality rust inhibiting alkyd paint with 2 coats. It's tedious work and you may need to be OCD to endure it. I have autobody and frame repairs/conversions that are in excess of 12 years old, with no signs of failure. Auto rust IS automotive cancer and must be treated the same way. Surgically cut out everything possible and treat what you may have missed with chemotherapy (rust converter).

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@jjm2948 For a frame, after the final painting process, let it cure for 30 days if possible and then apply an undercoating such as fluid film, a linseed oil and wax emulsion or other type of fluid coating. Fluid film with flexible spray extensions on the sprayer seem to be the only reasonable means of treating inside the frames and tight areas. You can only do so much with a rusted frame without separating it from the body.

[@alexe02535]

Would you recommend to shoot rustcheck rust converter inside the frame and then apply a oil coating? Trying to slow the cancer from my Toyota sequoia lol

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@alexe02535 Internal frame areas are a real challenge and solutions are limited. Power washing to remove as much rust and debris from inside the frame is the most reasonable solution. After fully dry, application of a rust converter, followed by an oil, or wax coating should provide the best protection.

[@alexe02535]

@@chrisgraham2904 thanks I bought a sewer jetter I'm gonna remove all the crap inside. I think it will workout well

[@MRHEEGY]

Excellent break down, I’m about to do this job on my 4th gen 4runner and will be going pretty hard on it and would love to just have to do this the one time. Are you able to recommend any rust converters that will convert rust to ferric phosphate? And any recommendations for rust inhibiting alkyd paint? Thank you so much in advance!

[@paulbriggs3072]

Problem with all this- either you are testing a true rust converter which makes iron oxide into black iron phosphate, OR you are testing a coating MIXED with a rust converter so that when it dries it's (ideally) a rust-free coating. The chip test has no bearing in testing a true rust converter, same with the bending test. Your own words were that it was "To test how flexible each COATING was." Well either you are testing coatings or you are testing true rust converters which are not coatings at all but just what they say they are, rust converters. Most of the inferior "rust converters" are in fact an acrylic type coatings mixed with a mild phosphoric acid blend. They do convert rust but are just an acrylic coating in the end which can never be any better than acrylic paint in protection. Even if you put epoxy over them, its only as good as the acrylic paint underneath and nobody recommends acrylic paint to protect steel. As you said, if the primer fails, the paint on top fails. ANY product that turns rust black is likely phosphoric acid even if its just mild, but good for you for checking the MDS info to see if there actually was any in there. However, as I said, anything that can be peeled off is not a true converter. Thanks for putting me onto Rust Kutter. I learned more from your video than I expected.

[@stuffhappensdownsouth9899]

i started work at a bodyshop when i started there was a green liquid that didn't seem to turn the rust black as like iron phosphate it literally converted it back to an iron powder which was of course unuseable but when scuffed away left the metal completely free of rust there was no label on the chemical just a standard spray bottle and reused washer fluid jug full of it when you use it the smell ran u out of the room worse than the smell of rotten egg/sulfur but kinda similar have you any Idea of what this product was?

[@paulbriggs3072]

@@stuffhappensdownsouth9899 Possibly Ospho -by Skyco which is orthophospheric acid and is green and a rust converter. But it does not smell much. Another option might be muriatic acid that turns greenish if any iron gets into it and dissolves rust. It also has a rotten egg smell that makes you run from the room, but the trouble is that it likely re-rusts even more later on unless you apply a paste of baking soda and water 50-50 to the metal for about 10 minutes before rinsing. These are just speculations.

[@CarterEdison777]

Whats the best paint for too coating black phosphate?

[@MrAhhsum]

So what should I use

[@CarterEdison777]

@@MrAhhsum All products with Phosphoric acid are good! Its This video that is a joke, for all the reasons this original commenter said. They all convert thin amounts of rust, and then seal in the remaining rust to stop the reaction. All of the problems and issues the host is having, is because he’s not using them for their intended purpose

[@draytonkk]

I've had good experiences with rustoleum rust converter, went on clear, turned rust black, and as long as all thick rust was removed as is wire brush it thoroughly but not needed to be to bare metal, just down to surface rust only, it lasted and worked great, my project car on hold sat in my driveway for 4 years now and isint rusting where I used it, and I spent maybe 30 hours over 2 weeks wirebrushing the WHOLE underbody and wheelwells and using that as a primer layer, then a black primer onto after, then rubbercoated it all, and no rust coming back with Canadian winters too so from +35c to -45c temp ranges, salt from my asshat brother burying it when shoveling the sidewalk while I was living on my own for a bit, its held through

[@Testostebro]

Thank you for this. My father and I have my late grandfather's older car, with not a lot of mileage on the tires, but a lot of years under its belt. A leak developed in the trunk weather stripping, water caused some rust to form under the spare tire. Your video has taken me to Rust Kutter, and it's doing for me what your testing showed you. Subscribed as a thanks and a very heartfelt thank you.

[@James-nd2yk]

With the phosphoric acid, you are also meant to rinse them with water after your done etching or soaking the items, to neutralize/remove any remaining acid.

[@marko.3531]

One advantage of the Ospho is since it is very thin it will wick in between sheetmetal pinch welds and crimped panels

[@orcoastgreenman]

That's an excellent reason/way to use what OSPHO I have on hand, even though I am going to use the top performing one for all accessible areas, in projects I do. Thank you!

[@joefudd]

Thanks for that suggestion. I have a pickup truck that has many spot/pinch welded brackets on the underside of the cargo box. The road salt and water has gotten in between these overlaps and started rusting the sheet metal. I am looking for something that I can spray on that will wick in between these overlaps and stop/convert the rust.

[@mjremy2605]

A much needed video. Nothing like upending established market products. Good job! For a long time I used Loctite Rust Neutralizer thinking what a godsend it was. It bonded existing rust and I could then paint over it. No! This product is a combination of tannic acid and acrylic. The tannic acid is the rust remover and chemically converts the rust into a neutral state, but the acrylic is a useless base coating that should never be under any other type of paint. Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material but it can also corrode metal and is not the best rust remover/ converter/ neutralizer. The reason some of your tested products did not work, is due to tannic acid being used. Some beginner DIYers (as I was once) don't want to spend the time understanding chemistry. They want a quick one step does it all solution. For them, let them continue using Tannic Acid products as it is safer than the stronger stuff like phosphoric acid, muriatic acid, etc. Phosphoric Acid etches the rust off the metal better than Tannic Acid. This is what is in the Rust Kutter you recommended. It can be dangerous to apply, fumes in lungs and eyes, back splash, spatter, all dangers that need protection with goggles, neoprene or thick nitrile gloves, working in open spaces, skin protection, etc. Why not use straight phosphoric acid? 1 part 99% phosphoric acid added to 4 parts water is a 25% solution. 1 part 85% Phosphoric acid added slowly to 4 parts water is close enough to a 20% solution. You typically need a 20 - 30% diluted PA for rust removal. Remember to add PA (acid) to water, not water to acid in decrease danger of splashback and spatter. On Amazon, here is 1 quart 85% PA at $13, search for: Duda Energy 1 Quart / 950ml 85% Food Grade Phosphoric Acid Rust Remover Clean Etch Metal Is phosphoric acid harmful to humans? Phosphoric Acid can affect you when breathed in. Phosphoric Acid is a CORROSIVE CHEMICAL and contact can irritate and burn the eyes. Breathing Phosphoric Acid can irritate the nose, throat and lungs causing coughing and wheezing. Use protection! Why do they put phosphoric acid (PA) in Coke? Acids provide a tartness and tangy taste that helps to balance the sweetness of sugar present in the beverage; they are key factors in the taste of the beverage. Phosphoric acid is added to cola drinks to impart tartness, reduce growth of bacteria and fungi, and improve shelf-life. When you drink sodas, the PA damages your bones and gives you osteoporosis. Apart from the harmful effects of the sugar, salt, caffeine, and dyes in sodas. Do not drink sodas. What happens to teeth in phosphoric acid? Soda also contains phosphoric acid, which is highly corrosive to the teeth. To get an idea of just how erosive it is: phosphoric acid is also used in fertilizer and metal polish. Even small amounts can erode your teeth's enamel. fyi - Don't say 'literally' and 'actually' in your speech. They are overused and a bad habit. Everyone has a few 😊

[@ibberman]

Not $13 but $31.25 for the 85% Duda.

[@speedmaverick]

I've been using Naval Jelly since the 70's and have had outstanding results with zero failure. The longest I have tracked it has been just over 20 years with no return of rust from under paint. It's messy as it has to be rinsed and smells terrible so needs to be used in ventilated area, but the results have been excellent. Just used it last week for an RV project that had rust inside the sleeper floor structure that I was able to remove and treat.

[@GotScout]

Well if you understood that your old ass tech was just phos suspended in gelatin... then you'd understand why the PHOS is the key...

[@Gunnl]

I never understood those products that require you to throw water at the metal right after you cleaned it off rust

[@kenabi]

@@Gunnl its actually fairly common, and if done right, is fine. the issues creep in when you clean it and then leave it bare metal afterwards. treat -> clean -> protective coat.

[@mrfelix2510]

When I was a younger man, 43 years ago, I worked in a shipping yard in Florida. One of my jobs was to treat rust on the deep sea ships that came into Port. I used naval jelly on them. It always worked perfectly.

[@LiveWire-it8zr]

Rust encapsulaters and rust converters are very different but the terms in marketing are used interchangeably. Encapsulaters cover the rust and keep it from getting worse by sealing it over; usually epoxy based. Converters are almost always acid based and must be top coated once converted and neutralized.

[@briizcustoms9543]

Top coated with what ? How do you neutralized it?

[@cris_m8]

​@@briizcustoms9543 neutralized with a base like baking soda and water and top coated with paint.

[@paddyladdd9395]

Which is better an encapsulate r or a converter?

[@ChristopherJones16]

can you convert then encapsulate instead of sealing with paint?

[@PatricioGarcia1973]

couple years late commenting, but that is what the POR15 system entsils, it comes with a cleaner, a rust converter, and then the epoxy coating

[@will5286]

I began using OSPHO when starting out as a deckhand on offshore tugs. It was an industrial/marine product only back then and was hard to find someone who would sell it retail. I used it then, and still do as a way to stabilize rusted steel (not thin sheet stuff) after chipping, grinding rusty and scaly steel that had been subjected to wear and saltwater-where you can't or would not blast it. It was excellent then and still is for those HD uses. I use it as a pre-primer before epoxy or other top quality primer..

[@neilfromclearwaterfl81]

Indeed, Ospho needs prep as in sanding, wire brushing, needle scaling etc before applying. Industrially its used as a dip tank solution before priming new metal to treat any invisible surface corrosion on the new metal and some may be surprised how even a shiny new sheet of steel will have black patches of iron phosphate appear on it afterwards where it has been invisibly already started corroding. Pretreating rust with a water/vinegar brine soaked shop towel for a few hours followed by a thorough rinse with water to remove the rust and a fast drying process is also a good first step. Steel ships, automobiles, trucks, bridges, etc started lasting longer after Ospho was introduced. Best!

[@nicholasagnew2792]

Exactly, thank you. Ospho isn't a rust stripper, its a rust converter, converting iron oxide into iron phosphate so getting shiny metal was never the goal. Ospho works very well.

[@neilfromclearwaterfl81]

@@nicholasagnew2792 Ospho when used in a Dip Tank will boil off the rust very effectively and since it has such a thin viscosity penetrates between pinch welded pieces nicely. You'll see the rust and corrosion float to the surface of the tank and form a layer of black scum as its working. Steel will come out with a mat grey finish that will have good adhesion with your primer which is why many industries use it in dip tanks/bathes for metal prep during manufacturing. Best!

[@pirategmunger]

I read through some of the other comments now on this video and I think the Ospho process is misunderstood. Take a painted/coated panel that has rust on it... Step one is to grind the entire surface down to bare metal, using a wire wheel to grind the rusted areas of all scale and brown surface rust. The rust needs to be wire wheels until virtually no more brown dust comes up from doing so. Then at that point, it's time to apply the Ospho. I always apply it with a brush, working it really well into the metal and I do the entire panel, even if there's no rust in spots. Then it needs to fully dry, minimum of 24 hours. Step 2 is to make sure it's completely dry and then I start with P80 grit sand paper on a DA and make sure to remove all surface scale created by the Ospho. You do not leave that scale in place! That scale is the converted rust contaminants that cannot stay with the panel. Once it's all sanded down and no more scale, it's ready to be wiped clean with a good wax and grease remover. Step 3 is to coat the panel with a good primer and paint as normal from there. Hope this helps someone out there in KZbin - land 👍

[@oldmanhare]

I used VHT Rust Converter on my Tacoma frame which had visible surface rust along every weld on the frame. After all the visible rust turned black, I went over it with a flat black Rustoleum. 3 years later, and they all look perfect. No separation or blistering at all. Now, on other bare metal surfaces like the suspension parts that had no coating from the manufacturer, I did have to repeat this process roughly every year.

[@scottballin3798]

What is VHT

[@oldmanhare]

@Scott Ballin sorry, I didn't finish the thought completely. It's VHT Rust Converter. It is a spray on converter, and works well. There are other good converts too. VhT is just the brand.

[@toma3773]

Rust Mort is similar.. Works awesome.

[@at1970]

Fing tacomas have shit frames. Every gen just dissolves if you live anywhere near salt. Did you ever try CRC rust converter?

[@TheRogerKyle]

VHT is discontinued, which sucks because it was good stuff

[@HabaneroTi]

Through personal experience I've found that despite what rust converter products claim, you can't just convert existing rust into iron phosphate or the like and them paint over it and be done. Unless it's very light surface or flash rust, you still have to get rid of the existing rust first, or as much of it as is possible, and only then apply a converter, preferably with a high phosphoric acid and possibly zinc content, and then you still have to apply paint or primer and paint over that. There is no all-in-one rust remover, converter and encapsulator product for most real world rust situations. I've stopped believing the marketing hype and now use these products for what they do best, converting whatever remaining rust exists AFTER I've gotten rid of as much rust as I can via other means, be they chemical, mechanical or electrical. They're kind of a middle step in the rust removal and treatment process, and used this way can be quite effective. Rust converters aren't snake oil. They're just marketed as such.

[@zubirhusein]

Agreed. They're great for pitted metal after you've sanded/ground down most of the rust

[@HabaneroTi]

@@zubirhusein I forgot to mention that they both treat and neutralize what little rust remains if you've done a thorough job of removing it, as well as etch the bare metal, so whatever you apply afterwards can do its job properly. I just did this with my car's entire rear end, using mostly POR-15 with a little spray can paint for the diff, very thoroughly, and hopefully it'll take.

[@timothykappel198]

The instructions actually tell u to remove any loose rust. So it's basically telling u to chip all the rust off and it'll convert any surface rust that's left. None of these products will convert and work on bubble rust there simply not made to. Either way u want to remove as much rust as u can before u do anything anyways.

[@HabaneroTi]

@@timothykappel198 It's not just loose rust that needs to be removed to properly treat rusted metal, but as much of the tougher embedded, encapsulated and pitted rust as possible, or any fracture in the treatment will allow air and moisture in to allow that rust to grow and undermine the treatment. Conversion only works on the very topmost layer if rust and not on anything underneath. You have to do it right or the rust will come back and potentially be even worse.

[@CarterEdison777]

Whats the best top coating for black phosphate?

[@jstmesegscell]

Yes. We actually use ospho in some of our aircraft parts. You do need to remove access rust, apply it, and leave it to cure for 24 hours and then remove the access scale or powdery substance on top. Then after that you can prep amd paint over top. An acid brush is good to use to apply it. But it being thin helps it seep into the pores and through the metal. You just have to make sure you wait for it to cure and then the removal of the surface "film" it creates is important. Usually use and solvent to remove that.

[@jimkish9557]

Summit county checking in. Where have I been! It's salt season in Ohio and what else it there to think about besides road brine seeking refuge in every nook and cranny of my auto fleet. ODOT suspended the use of one ingredient anyway so it's less radioactive, gotta appreciate that one. Nice test suite! Just subscribed. I'm on your wavelength now. Thanks!

[@RepairGeek]

I'm just south of Richfield.

[@doebs85445]

I was directed to your page on rust conversion and top coating/ sealing the floor of my classic. Your very in depth. Your testing is much appreciated.

[@TravCanFixit]

Thank you so much for these videos! You just saved me years worth of frustration and labor trying products the hard way. I'm restoring a 49 willys truck right now and this just helped me immensely! You do great work!!

[@JasonAirInc]

Good video. Im building a 29 Ford Tudor that spent decades in the woods and has ZERO paint left. This is a huge help. Thanks for putting this together.

[@9vHeart]

If you use a rust converter (we use Enrust) you must allow it to cure for twenty four hours and then coat it with a good primer and top coat. If you don't do that it won't work well. and no coating is perfect. In my applications -marine preservation of metal hulls a good paint job will last 3 (if done in a so-so fashion) to 9 months or so (if done nearly perfectly) and nothing will protect you from chipping or impact.. The acid based products are really only useful for eliminating running rust especially on painted surfaces. I hasten to add that no coating is designed to be bent.

[@pirategmunger]

I have had extremely good luck with the Ospho. I have done countless restorations and hotrods with it and they all still look great and have held up against the rigors of time

[@Daniel_F_Gersten]

Have you documented any so we can see your process?

[@whiteviper1979]

​@@Daniel_F_Gerstenjust wear safety goggles and wear chemical gloves 🧤 and a respirator 😷 mask as Ospho is an acid so use and store with caution....

[@pirategmunger]

@@Daniel_F_Gersten yeah I have lots of pictures of builds over the years. No way to post them here though and I do not have a YT channel

[@pirategmunger]

@@Daniel_F_Gersten I have recently started putting my build pictures into Google shareable build folders so I could probably post those links but they are recent. I don't have anything uploaded yet from years ago but I can tell you that if there were any issues with any past work, they definitely would have reached out to me to fix it.

[@pirategmunger]

I read through some of the other comments now on this video and I think the Ospho process is misunderstood. Take a painted/coated panel that has rust on it... Step one is to grind the entire surface down to bare metal, using a wire wheel to grind the rusted areas of all scale and brown surface rust. The rust needs to be wire wheels until virtually no more brown dust comes up from doing so. Then at that point, it's time to apply the Ospho. I always apply it with a brush, working it really well into the metal and I do the entire panel, even if there's no rust in spots. Then it needs to fully dry, minimum of 24 hours. Step 2 is to make sure it's completely dry and then I start with P80 grit sand paper on a DA and make sure to remove all surface scale created by the Ospho. You do not leave that scale in place! That scale is the converted rust contaminants that cannot stay with the panel. Once it's all sanded down and no more scale, it's ready to be wiped clean with a good wax and grease remover. Step 3 is to coat the panel with a good primer and paint as normal from there. Hope this helps someone out there in KZbin - land 👍

[@steresi]

@RepairGeek I couldn't find your answer in this video... would you generally recommend wire brushing and applying phosphoric acid (e.g. Rust Kutter) before spraying a lanolin undercoating? Should that theoretically reduce rusting more than just lanolin? Enormous thanks for all your meticulously-researched rustproofing videos!! It's hard to find anyone else so thoroughly systematic. I just bought a 15' 2016 fiberglass travel trailer, storing outdoors. Underneath is a painted steel frame that's now maybe 25-50% surface rust, and a wood floor coated with marine spar urethane. I live in Columbus (grew up near Akron), and I'll only go on a few vacations a year with it, so it seems like a candidate for a rust grinding and restore with Rust Kutter + Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer + AG111. But I'm guessing since the rust is systemic all over, it's too late, right? So I should just go the lanolin Surface Shield undercoating route. Bonus question: might the lanolin protect the wood too, after a few new coats of spar urethane over it?

[@Rocheman79]

FYI for people in Canada. Rust check rust converter sold at Canadian tire is available in a 236ml bottle not the spray can one. And if you get the bottle one it’s a acid based product like the ones he recommends in the videos

[@tuyhl]

Rust Check Rust Converter, 236-mL Thanks for the info

[@7r5y9s1]

Do u have to coat or to paint the surface after using this converter from Canadian tire? If it has acid substances in side its will be not damaged if not covered after using?

[@Rocheman79]

@@7r5y9s1 I’m pretty sure it leaves the surface ready for paint

[@garyaanderson214]

I have used opho in the past.I have metal prep before painting (automotive).We live on the pacific coast.The ship yard Marine industry uses ospho here on rust on steel vessels.

[@AlessandroGenTLe]

I've tried MANY of these rust converters. In the end, the only one that I found really good (providing it's maintained in humid environment after it's given on the part as if it dries it stops converting the rust) is called "Fertan" and is a Germany product that is available only in EU (and not everywhere). It's based on tannic acid, so it's not toxic (that thing is used also into wine preparation), it's brown, and it's NOT a primer, but just a converter. You brush it on the part, and within a day all rust is converted. Then you need to wash it away, dry the surface and put a real primer on it. It either transforms the rust into a black dust or removes it completely if the rust is very small.

[@deez023]

Hi! What's the exact product's name? I found different products from Fertan like FeDOX, Rost Konverter, Gegen Rost (I assume it's a bigger bottle of Rost Konverter). I am using Wurth Rust Converter and Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 which are also tannic converters, but you don't wash them away, because they dry as a dark layer on top of rust and then you coat them with something.

[@donk1822]

I watched this video a week or so ago and remembered I have had a pot of Loctite rust converter in the garage for 30 years, I'm in the UK. A few days ago I swapped the stock shocks on my Subaru Forester XT, for a Peddar's lowering kit. The original shocks have only got 60,000 miles on them, not even half way through their life if my 2.0 Xn is a yardstick. There was a fair amount of rust in places after steam cleaning them, 2nd degree surface rust mostly. An application of the Loctite has totally transformed them, the rusted areas are neutralized and the coating that's been left? I have attacked them again with the pressure washer and the layer remains totally intact. When wire brushed even the worst areas have no live rust remaining. Perhaps a formulation that old has a chemical make up that is outlawed now? Result, nice set of 2.5 SG9 shocks appearing on E Bay soon :). Thanks for the vid, I wouldn't have remembered it was there otherwise.

[@Sky1]

I used extend treatment on my 1980 Firebird where the battery sits. I sold the car and then came across it several years later with the new owner. I asked to see some of the spots I touched up with it and it still looked great. I am not sure if Loctite changed the formula, it used to be in a brown bottle called Extend Rust Treatment. Seemed to work great for me.

[@goratgo1970]

EXCELLENT product. I have a white bottle of DuPont Extend - thick tan color until brushed on rust which turns it black. Primer and paint and good to go. Cannot find it for sale now.

[@driverjamescopeland]

Best rust treatment I've found, is Ultra One's "SafestRustRomover". It's not as fast as some other products, and is best applied with recirculation... but it has great results, is less toxic than any of the faster alternatives, and can often be reused, depending on how much area you have to treat. That being said, it's not a converter... but in my experience, those "converters" never penetrate well enough to eliminate the problem.

[@robbieraychannel]

Thank's for the great video. Fortunately I already use the Rust Kutter brand. I'd like to share a tip with everyone. I work on tons of snow and salt equipment and whenever I try to do a wiring repair job the copper strands are black with corrosion no matter how far you strip the insulation back. Like everyone I generally sand or scrape it off as best as I can. One day I thought I'd try the Rust Kutter. It works great. Turns it back to shiny copper again. I pour some into a bottle cap and swish the bare wire end around in it for a few minuets. when done I rinse it off with water then spray with CRC battery cleaner to neutralize the acid and rinse again. Sounds time consuming but makes a great repair. Might also work on other non ferrous metals, maybe you could do some testing. ???

[@bryantmccallson8963]

Would it be beneficial to use a phosphoric acid converter then cover with woolwax? Or would you just remove flake and go straight to woolwax?

[@ercost60]

Great video! Just wanted to add that I used Dupont (then) Extend on some car rust-thru spots ~40 years ago with fabulous results. Zero rust since then, and the car has never been garaged, always out in the weather.

[@goratgo1970]

Yes, the BEST one! Following bottle instructions exactly gives SUPER results. I pour the amount I will use into a plastic cup and brush it on. It turns from tan to black where there's rust, then primer and paint. I've had trouble finding it here in Washington State. Was hoping it would be tested here.

[@toejam503]

I used DURO Extend brush on back in 1985 on the frame, on a motorcycle, where the battery had cracked. Followed the directions and painted over it. When I stripped the bike down, 7 years later, that repair still looked new. Fast forward to today, I found a rust spot along the door seam of my '16 Silverado, where the factory seam sealer had pulled away. I used Permatex Extend brush on, as I assume it bought out DURO, the application is the same. I guess I'll see, down the road.

[@danielkapp9468]

I have one suggestion for a future test, take the best product here from each of the tests (including the paint on and spray cans) and then subject them to a fluid film/undercoating product to see what happens to them. I'm actually quite curious about how that eastwood stays wet and how it'd react to a lanolin type product.

[@tech-ii5sh]

Eastwood Rust Converter will stay wet for about 30 minutes. It is a water-based product, so it will eventually dry. However, it is important to allow the converter to dry completely before applying any other products, such as a lanolin type product. Lanolin is a waxy substance that is derived from sheep's wool. It is often used as a lubricant or as a protective coating. If you apply lanolin to a surface that has been treated with Eastwood Rust Converter, the lanolin may interfere with the curing process of the converter. This could lead to the converter not working properly. It is best to avoid applying lanolin to a surface that has been treated with Eastwood Rust Converter. If you need to use lanolin, you should wait until the converter has completely cured. This will ensure that the lanolin does not interfere with the curing process.

[@ratgreen]

What I worry about with the eastwood product, is that if its acid based, and doesnt dry, any remaining acid in contact with the metal will sit there corroding it. Its why POR15 rust prep advises you to spray, leave for a while, and then rinse off with water, and dry. Because otherwise itll have leftover acid on it and will eat at the steel.

[@didge110]

Well I'm glad I stumbled across your video - it is one of the best I've seen in a long, long time showing objective testing and clear, concise explanations and was very well edited - a credit to you young sir - thankyou for your efforts.

[@dev-debug]

The primer in Corroseal is a latex base. I use it to convert rust and it does that quite well, I wouldn't trust it as a base for automotive use though. I did test it on the outside of my old truck where I had a thin rust layer on fender. It turned the rust to magnetite and 2 Pa winters later it looks the same as the day I did it. No topcoat just the corroseal.

[@Greg_Bunch]

Glad you've had good luck, but be wary of this stuff. I had used Corroseal very diligently on some items I made, and topped it with four coats of rustoleum. After 2 years in an air conditioned house, everything which got that treatment had powdery rust breaking through across the entire surface. I also found that Corroseal's adhesion was extremely poor, and it chipped easily. I posted details of all this separately.

[@UnitedWeStand2020]

Good test, thanks for providing this info!👍👍 I bought a gallon of the corroseal for $60, probably a lot more now due to Bidenomics. I wire brushed my entire trailer frame, tandem axles and hubs included, it took me days to do. Cleaned all loose scale off then removed all dust. I brushed on the corroseal, generously. it went on white then turned black fairly quick. Looked great, almost like it was painted black. I then painted everything with Rust-Oleum gloss black with 2 coats, looked like a new trailer. Then, Less than a year later it looks AS BAD as it did before I started. I will NEVER buy corroseal again. ALL that wasted time and money. Being VERY disappointed is a huge understatement!

[@normhowes2975]

I used phosphoric acid after wire wheel/grind/sand the heaviest scale off. Wired wheeled after dried, re-coated, wire wheel again, primed then top coated. So far so good after 2 years in NY State on a '87 ford truck frame.

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

that is very thorough to wire wheel again after the phosphoric acid treatment.

[@ratgreen]

Thats exactly what I do too. I'm glad someone else uses the same method. My thoughts were bare steel is always best to paint, but sometimes you cant get to rust inside pitting etc. So wire wheel most of the rust off, treat the panel with converters to get into pitting, then rewire wheel to take it back to mainly steel, but with the pitting now converted.

[@Marcoosianism]

@@ratgreen If you wire-wheel after applying rust converters are you implying the converted rust is easier to wire-wheel off than the original rust itself? If not then, what are you wire-wheeling off after the rust converter has been applied?

[@ratgreen]

@@Marcoosianism I wire wheel it again to try get as much fresh steel exposed as possible, otherwise you have steel that is stained with rust converter. My idea being that etch primer will have better adhesion to fresh steel than good steel covered in rust converter. Leaving only the tiny rust spots in rust pitting that can't be wire wheeled off, being converted.

[@Marcoosianism]

@@ratgreen I understand. Thank you!

[@Greg_Bunch]

Thank you for a very thorough evaluation of these products. I only have experience with one of them (Corroseal) so your video was really helpful. Here's my Corroseal saga; hopefully it will help others too. About 3 years ago I started making original light fixtures as a side gig / hobby, many out of rusted scrap steel. Any parts requiring new steel were rusted intentionally by using a vinegar / peroxide mix, so that they matched the others. I was looking for a rustic black finish, like old wrought iron. I therefore removed all loose rust, and after much research, decided on Corroseal as a rust converter/primer, topped with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum 2x matte black paint. All were applied according to manufacturer recommendations with regard to time, temperature, etc. I did notice early on that the Corroseal seemed to chip fairly easily, as I had to recoat a couple of tiny spots where I accidentally tapped it with a tool etc while working on the fixtures. I should have thought more about that when it happened, but the product had such a good reputation etc that I figured I would be okay. Around the same time I made a fixture using similar techniques, but wanted the final finish to be rusty. I therefore removed all the loose surface rust and simply used 4 coats of the Rust-Oleum 2x matte clear coat. In other words, the same paint as the black, except in clear. Life has been kind of tough over the last two years, so I didn't really push to sell those completed fixtures. It turns out that was fortunate. About a month ago I sold my house and moved. When I did, I took a moment to admire my fixtures, which had been carefully sitting in boxes, in a fully air conditioned occupied house. To my dismay, EVERY single surface on which Corroseal had been used was covered in tiny dots of powdery rust breaking through the finish. They were not related to any previous chips or other damage, but were everywhere. I then looked at a test sample of steel which I had used for activating rust. After determining the best method for making them rust, I had prepped them and coated them in the exact same manner as the black fixtures. All pieces of the sample steel were rusted just as the fixtures were. After that I examined the intentionally rust-finish fixture, the one which only had 4 coats of Rust-Oleum clear coat on it. No breakthrough rust was visible, but since the underlying surface itself was rust, I wanted to make sure. I rubbed it all over with a piece of white paper towel, then examined the towel for any trace of color. There was absolutely none. In spite of being covered in rust to start with, the Rust-Oleum clear coat alone had done its job, and the fixture looked exactly as it did when I finished it. To put it mildly, I am extremely disappointed in Corroseal. I now face the tedious task of disassembling every fixture I made using this crap, stripping them down to bare metal, and completely refinishing them. For me, Corroseal utterly failed in every way, and I will never use it again.

[@internetonsetadd]

Corroseal is crap. I prepped a bunch of rusty spots on some wrought iron chairs, applied Corroseal per the instructions and made sure all the reactions produced the correct color, then hit them with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust enamel spray paint. Within a year the finish on the rusty spots was just gone altogether, flaky rust everywhere. I've had way, way better results with just Rust-Oleum primer and paint. I'm currently letting the chairs sit out in the elements to let all the Corroseal thoroughly fail so I can start the project over again.

[@nodsib]

Really well done tests! Have a couple cargo trailers that have a lot of surface rust on the frames and was trying to figure out the best way to tackle it. I think now I’ll scuff the majority off, get a bunch of the rust cutter on it and finish it off with some good primer and undercoat

[@gimmeagig]

Wow you remind me of the guy from Project Farm. Incredibly detailed and informative. I am just starting to clean up my 85 F 150. For me, because I don't have shop or a lift and I'll be crawling around underneath the truck, I like the Corroseal because it is harmless, easy to work with no fumes and water cleanup. I actually treated the exhaust manifold with it years ago and it's still holding up. I'll probably top coat the corroseal with Surface Shield. That should give me a pretty good protection, right?

[@gregoriodecker2692]

My dad was an rv body man for 20 years he used ospho .. when used correctly it does what its supposed.. keep rust from coming back through after it's stripped back.. he never had returns for rust coming back through.. what that means..idk

[@ericseidel4940]

One I can recommand RUBSON FRAMETO (not afiliated by any kind) : 22 years ago I made for my daughters a Swing balançoire out of thick gaz tubing sitting on my outside stock. They were completely rotted, I just roughtly brushed them, then one FRAMETO coat, then one thick paint coat, that was it. It is still outside my house, and there is NO RUST at all on any tube, even those that where hit and with damage on the paint. Thats a good product, still sold the same after 30 years.

[@Spectt84]

Seems I missed a bunch of your videos somehow, time to catchup... Such an underrated channel! Nice job. That was a lot of work, and rust converters aren't cheap! Thanks for the amount of effort you put into your videos. I always leave learning something new.

[@22marx22]

So would you do rust cutter on an older vehicle first and then treat with a lanolin spray? Or just the lanolin spray?

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Thanks for trying them on a "naturally" rusted surface. I was questioning if your solution was preventing adhesion.

[@gregburrows4192]

Over 36 years ago I used Sems Rust Seal (not their Rust Mort) which converts and encapsulates (did not require top coating) on a very rusty (I mean rusted through panels in places) '67 Datsun and the rust has never returned. I swear by that stuff. Don't know if it's still out there, but I have a little left and it STILL works.

[@shrekjones7]

The most thorough product review I have seen in a while. Thanks for doing this and showing what we often deal with - crap products saturating a market making it almost impossible to buy something that actually works well :)

[@UnkleAL1962]

Today I bought a product without looking at reviews beforehand. Guess I lucked out as it is Rust Kutter I bought at my local TSC. Time to give my old utility trailer a facelift and I think this will be just the ticket. Tks for your review!

[@ButchNackley]

Ospho is really good for getting between seams. Being as thin as it is, it will quickly seep between joints. Great for firewalls before resealing the seems. Just let the Ospho do it's thing for at least 48 hrs. Once it is fully dry, brush the seam joints, blow them off really well with compressed air. You can then apply the seam sealer over the seams.

[@supercharged2414]

I restored a vehicle years back and used Ospho on mild surface rust. After painting ONLY the Ospho treated areas failed and the paint bubbled. I followed directions exactly. Never used it on a restoration again.

[@ButchNackley]

@@supercharged2414 Sorry to hear it didn't go so well for you. I've been using it for decades and never had any problems with it. Used on cars, farm equipment pretty much anything I would find rust on. One thing I always did after it did it's thing, was to wash the areas I'd used it on with distilled water and baking soda. That might be the key really, since the baking soda water would neutralize any acids that might have been on the surfaces.

[@ratgreen]

Did you rinse it off with water, most acid products require you to rinse otherwise the acid remains and will sit there, acidic as hell. They need neutralizing @@supercharged2414

[@ronskopitz2360]

I recently used Loctite’s aerosol product, and I was fairly impressed. I would say it fell somewhere between the Rust Kutter and the VHT. The adhesion was great (I had to use 80 grit paper to get it off), and it definitely converted the rust. I did have to put two coats on the areas with thicker rust. Based on how it smelled and the way it burned when I got it around my eyes and nose, I suspect it is phosphoric acid in a spray can. Thanks for the info!!

[@rickyanke9407]

Agree. I used it two years ago on some light rust on the inside quarters of my original 79 Silverado. Delicate work. It worked better than I expected and the rust has not returned at all.

[@ronskopitz2360]

Yes / this is the kind of center he should have been testing. The aerosol Loctite is amazing stuff. It does NOT come off ..

[@vicferrari9380]

​@@rickyanke9407original 79 Silverado? I hadn't realized they made the 79 in any other years.

[@ssoffshore5111]

Just what I was looking for! I got a used truck that's rusting on the insides of the very bottom of the doors and want to treat it before it get's to the outside. I'll try brushing off the larger flakes, brush on some Rust Cutter, and hit it with a coat or two of spray paint. Hopefully this holds for a while, although I'm sure the real issue is likely coming from moisture sitting inside the bottom of the doors themselves. Maybe I'll pour some trans fluid inside the door afterwards to slow things down even further.

[@vadrifter3200]

Much appreciate the fact that you do go the xtra mile in your testing. Marketing almost always seems to win until real world applications are put into motion. Have you done a video on rust encapsulators? Eastwood comes to mind first. Also there are some AG paints that have so pretty high self praise.

[@RepairGeek]

That's literally the next video. POR15, chassis saver, etc. Same type of testing.

[@RockyRaccoon3281]

Nice. Perfect timing.

[@nicholasagnew2792]

I picked up a western Washington 1960s car that had bad surface rust on the entire roof and trunk lid. I brushed some Ospho on it, sanded a little, and painted the sucker. Its been about 8 years and I haven't got a single paint bubble. The thing looks amazing. Ospho isn't a stripper...I've never had the car under a roof either.

[@someone46018]

The performance depends a lot on which application the rusted part is being used for, for example: a car axle will be exposed to water, dirt, salt, wind, vibrations, and many more hostile agents; you would definitely want the best performance out of it. In my case, I used a version of the rust converter applied with a brush on the steel framing of a garage roof that is exposed to a misty environment, since there is no exposure of the steel with anything else than the misty environment, it works just fine keeping the rust from progressing. It all depends on the application, I wouldn't expect much out of it if applied on a car axle or any other "hostile" environment exposed part.

[@donaldsummers4831]

Excellent video. Testing methods look very logical and well thought out. I will be using this product on truck parts (frame, differential, etc.). However, some of these parts still have some painted areas that stick pretty well to the metal. After this product cures, I will coat these surfaces with Blaster Surface Shield. Question: 1) What happens if the Rust Kutter product gets on the painted portions of these parts? Is that a problem? Thanks, Don

[@billsmith1770]

i've been using a product containing phosphoric acid , and the directions say after it's dry , you have to neutralize (wash it off with water and brush) before painting . also , some converters use a separate pre treatment that is phosphoric acid .

[@CharlesReiche]

I'll never get the opportunity to use these. I've been spraying fluid film and surface shield on everything.

[@joefudd]

What would be best for sheet metal pinch welds, seams, and spot welded on brackets? Rust gets in between all of these and there needs to be a penetrating rust converter stopper that can be sprayed and will wick itself through these folded and welded joints to stop rust. For example, under all steel pickup truck beds there are spot welded brackets on them. The water and salt get in between these and starts the rusting and there is no way to get to these rusted surfaces because these joints and sheet metal overlaps are permanent.

[@speedy_pit_stop]

Thanks to you I don't need to do these tests myself. I totally trust your results.

[@gonicjon]

great video...i'm very disappointed with the corroseal...without priming after the rust just comes right through in 3 to 6 months ...and that was 3 coats....that was without painting over it as you explained that it is intended to be used as a primer...but i kinda wanted to test it out for some months since the project is on hold....but as you shown...it doesn't adhere very well either...i'm glad the bed is still off...got to come up with a plan b for sure...the neighbor says por15 for sure...i'm thinking another coat of the corroseal....since i have a gallon of it....but then i'm thinking por15 for a top coat...i think there is more than 1 type of por15 for various application differances...i got to look into it

[@muumarlin1731]

This is so cool. Thank you for doing all the heavy lifting to educate the rest of us!

[@jennifereverett6298]

On my monitor, the Rust Kutter panel still looks orange-gray. Perhaps another layer of product would remove all of the orange? But for my application (an AC condensation drip pipe in my garden that has cracked at the tip and is dripping rust from the cracked area and whole end of the pipe since it seems to be missing paint there), I really like that there's little flaky black stuff and that the product is better for upside down and vertical surfaces. The Star Brite panel looks perhaps 100% converted (gray + black). But since the pipe is curved, I don't know if I'll be able to get rid of all flaky black residue before painting. The VHT on the axle result also looks great.

[@jackbieterman9911]

Really awesome, thorough testing. Great video, appreciated the explanations along the way and knew you were talking from some level of knowledge when you brought up the MSDS for the products, as someone who worked for a chemical org previously. Interested in scanning your channel for an undercoating procedure and recommendation now so I know exactly what to buy.

[@lunarkparkes]

THE RUST MUST TURN BLACK IMMEDIATLY. AND DRY SOME FAST before apply it you muyts sand it, cause if you have a big pile of rust it will convert only on top of it and rust it will bust agian. All products are good if they turn balck and dry fast. These "tests" are just nonsense cause they have different conditions of surface. i USE CHEAP PRODUCTS ANTHEU WORK WELL.

[@fluxcapacitor1621]

Klean-Strip Concrete Etch & Metal Prep from the cleaning section of the paint department at Home Depot or Lowes. It's phosphoric acid that will strip rust. Soak rusty metal in it. I use paper towels to keep a surface wet. Don't let it dry. The residue is a pain to remove.

[@TheOldGuyPhil]

Awesome job reviewing these. It's a crap shoot out there without good testing. THANK YOU for your work on this!

[@motivationmoneywellness]

as for my 1997 jeep wrangler, my chassis will never bend, and if it breaks due to impact aka an accident i will have much bigger problems to worry about, i need rust conversions and prevention. very informative video thanks

[@thenaglebagel45]

killing it with the vids man! keep them coming

[@leftycosta1899]

I used Krud Kutter Rust Remover on a rusted door at a condo on the ocean a few years back. Worked great getting the rust off the door. Then I painted the door and it lasted fine at least couple of years until I sold the condo.

[@VinnyMartello]

Now from experience, the rustoleum “rust reformer” is a black primer that works surprisingly well. Not a permanent a solution but will buy your chassis a few more years.

[@vg2binkey884]

What about on the top of a roof of a car?

[@VinnyMartello]

Sunlight is merciless so you’ll wanna paint over the primer. But with that stuff and a little paint it will probably hold up 5 years. Just make sure you give it a good scrub with soap and water.

[@toddmorgan8208]

I like your evaluation, it really highlights the types of products, and opens up all of the issues: It seems to me that the first question to be answered about rust converters is did it convert all the rust? if it didn't, there will still be rust growing underneath... then the adhesion and the rest of your tests can sort out after that... ? I don't care as much about the life of the overcoat, if the rust is still growing... Still, it was very enlightening, thanks

[@bobWsterguy]

So does this imply that a coating of Rust Kutter later followed by a coating of PB blaster Surface Shield mentioned in your previous videos would be the preferred approach? How much later in days? So I guess my question is what is the best approach for a 10-year-old vehicle that may contain previous rust? Thanks again for your excellent videos. 🤔😄 Bob C

[@bakdaon]

I believe rust kutter is not a paint, so you might want to put a coat of paint after it and before you Surface shield it.

[@RepairGeek]

0:13

[@SuperVitz]

Were any of these products using tannic acid? What's you're experience with that? We use a product called Vactan which is very popular in the UK... Their formulation claims to be vinyl acrylic copolymer and tannic acid.

[@gregorymarsh9504]

Questions: 1) If these converters are ineffective, what's the best course of action to stop and rescue the entire underbody of a vehicle with surface rust on almost every component (i.e. if left alone parts will rot away and fail)? 2) Did you know CorrosionX makes a rust converter? I'd love to see their product tested. I know you had mediocre results with the CX preventatives, but personally, I've been spraying them on some slightly rusted rocker panels for 3 years and it hasn't spread one bit. 3) Regarding your Fluid Film endorsement, what about the scenario where a painted underbody component that's covered in FF takes some rock chips and reveals bare metal which then starts to rust and that rust spreads underneath the FF covered paint ultimately eventually causing the paint to fail and flake off which the (now useless) FF or Wool Wax is stuck to? Isn't this the catch with effectiveness of such products?

[@RepairGeek]

1) Fluid Film, Woolwax, or Surface Shield it. Repeat as necessary. 2) I was not aware corrosion X made a rust converter. They make a lot of rust preventative. I hadn't heard of a converter. 3) Any lanolin rust proofing is not affected by rock chips because the products stay wet. When a chip occurs the product will self level and fill in the chip. They also will not flake or peel like a traditional paint or rust converter. The downside is you need to reapply them yearly. If you spray lanolin over paint, and the paint fails completely, you will have an issue IF you don't recoat the metal with lanolin.

[@awittypilot8961]

Great video! I'm doing a 69 mach 1 right now and you changed my mind and I ordered Rust Kutter. Thanks!

[@arobertson87]

Great video, thanks for sharing your hard work! Going into a bike restoration with some mild rust with a lot more confidence. The acid products seem ideal for detailed parts like threaded bosses that will not be painted but rather greased periodically--correct me if I'm wrong.

[@RepairGeek]

Bike parts are small enough to soak. If you're concerned about stripping the finish on plating look at evaporust: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmTXYYyqfLekj7c

[@park-n-sonsarchery9570]

So I have a quick question I live in upper Michigan where they use a lot of salt on the roads , just purchased a 2020 ram truck with no external rust , however there is what looks like a very light surface rust on the underside of the bed and wheel wells . They have what they call a Midwest protection package up here where they undercoat and seal the underside and inside of wheel wells . Should I treat the surface before they spray the undercoat or with the undercoating neutralize the surface rust? I was wondering if I should use the cutter then the VHT where I can reach Thanks

[@allnoyz7895]

Thanks... Measuring adherence while, at the same time gauging conversion to iron phosphate (or whatever the black stuff is) assumes the phosphate adheres better than regular rust. The condition of the metal after peeling could actually indicate a superior product. In fact, to peel each one off and examined the actual conversion rather than a surface look would have been beneficial. Cheap paint (especially fresh) will pass the bend test perfectly - by the way.

[@josecolon9297]

Young man, I hope your a engineer because your dedication is admirable

[@danontherun5685]

Excellent report on rust solutions. Questions, need to use high zinc engine oil for life in flat lifter engines? Also is unleaded gas effect on original iron head valve seats enough to qualify expensive pressed in valve seats? A wear rate query actually. Recommended product, (I'm not a seller) Gibbs brand lubricant. Sprayed it on new clean raw steel rims 3 years ago zero rust, other non treated raw sheet metal same car same time is surface rusted. Also good penetrant and lube. A friend said he painted over it after it dried and paint stayed (on a lube?). Expensive but a lot of us use it.

[@mrgcav]

Any acid will remove rust. But Ospho does stop it. You did not use Ospho correctly. Crud Cutter is too strong for sheet metal. For heavy rust I use plain cheap 5% vinegar or Evaporust. then rinse in distilled water. Then rub well with Caig D5 on a cloth to prevent surface rust from forming or treat immediately with Ospho. You can paint over Caig D5 without removing it. Remove loose scale, then Wearing Gloves, apply Ospho with a stiff brush or immerse the entire part, then after 72 hours, use a wire wheel or Wire brush and a green abrasive pad and remove most of the Black Ospho off. You do not want bright metal. Dull grey is what you want. Then reapply the 2nd coat of Ospho. Third coat any spots that are not black after 24 hours. Now after another 72 hours you have a even Black stable surface and the 2nd Ospho coat is not coming off. Then optional 93% Zinc Primer, then using POR UV undercoat, paint all sharp edges. Then two POR UV undercoats 24 hours apart or Rust bullet, Then optional Topcoat color of your choice. Assemble your part. Then Surface shield. With a five pass protection you are unlikely to miss anything. You will never paint it again. Done. Rust bullet is just too expensive for most applications. Your 180" flexibility test is too extreme for the real world. 90° way more than and dent will cause. But I like your adhesion and impact tests. But 4 lbs at 6ft drop is an impact of about 80 LB at 64 ft per second (43.6) MPH. Too extreme. So it is no wonder most the coatings failed impact test.

[@RepairGeek]

If everyone passes what good is the test? I don't give participation trophies.

[@denniskrohn7034]

Thank you for the product comparison tests. Making me rethink how I will handle my rust on 1952 ford panel truck. Nice job.

[@1r2i3c4h]

The Rust Kutter’s SDS lists Phosphoric acid at 35%-45%. A quart is about $20. Starbrite SDS lists Phosphoric acid at 15%-35% (big range). Klein Strip Metal Prep. SDS lists Phosphoric acid at 30%-60% (big range). A gallon at HD is under $20. Guess which one I use.

[@timothyandrewnielsen]

Ummm....the....expen....noononono the cheap one!

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

Rust Dissolver gel spray is 50% phosphoric acid - so its about the same product.

[@kevincollins5201]

I don't know which one is HD

[@1r2i3c4h]

@@kevincollins5201 HD=Home Depot. They sell the gallon of Klein Strip Metal Prep.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

Once you have rust, unless you fully neutralize or eradicate it, you're always going to be chasing rust no matter what you do. Best thing is to treat the surface before it forms. I really like Evaporust for non-chassis type applications. I don't really like those 'convertor' products that turn the rust into Magnetite or Iron Phosphate. I was at a surplus type dollar store and bought 2 gallons of some industrial grade rust convertor for $3 a gallon. OK for what it is but that's about all I would have paid. Looked thick and milky. It did work and turn the parts black. I bought a set of steel rims 6-7 years ago for my winter beater and one was coated in that POR15 or similar urethane. I had to clean them up last fall and that was by far the worst wheel. Paint was bubbling and scabbing up. Underneath looked like it was on the bottom of the ocean. Once that POR is compromised it just rusts beneath the surface. I've tried most of those products at one time or another. I think Ospho is just a mild Phosphoric acid.

[@kenj.8897]

You sure wade through the crap to turn us on to good products . Thank you .

[@christianmccollum1028]

Just bought a bottle of Rust Kutter for the bottom of my VW bus. It's going to be interesting to see what happens- loads of surface rust. Fingers crossed 🤞

[@josephpuchel6497]

Hey How did the Rust Kutter work out ? Thank you

[@2coolartsmusicmom572]

I have a VW with rust along the under edge...and door sill...how did you make out with the Rust Kutter?

[@v.e.7236]

Not sure what happened with your Ospho application process, but I've used that product for decades with excellent results and never had that scale left behind. I use it on areas like inside car doors where access is difficult and like the fact that it seeps into every nook/crack/crevice to convert the rust and stop the rust in its tracks. I've repaired many an old classic (aka: rust bucket) w/ Ospho as well as Rustoleum's Rust Reformer aerosol. Any product that doesn't adhere to the substrate is merely an encapsulator, not a converter.

[@gloriaschwazenhag2252]

Have you ever used it on heavy rust? I have a bit of a couple of rust buckets myself and am wondering if it works on stopping deep rust that has created holes in the metal.

[@skippynj1979]

​@@gloriaschwazenhag2252 that would have to be cut out and new welded in.. this is really only good for stopping service rust, the first mm is the metal.. and keeping surface rust from penetrating. if it penetrates the metal is no longer metal🥺

[@2coolartsmusicmom572]

I have a 1997 volkswagon with a rust spot in the door sill. It hasn't made a hole but it has started bubbling the paint in a 2" spot. There is also surface rust starting along the bottom edge... very minor...but I want to stop it. Would you recommend Ospho for this? I would just like to use denatured alcohol...but maybe this is better? Any advice welcomed. I don't really want to start sanding and grinding and making a big job of it...especially along the edge and disturbing the paint with the surface rust. Any advice appreciated...

[@v.e.7236]

@@2coolartsmusicmom572 If you see bubbling in the paint, there is no other real option other than to do some amount of sanding and/or grinding, etc.S trip that section where the bubbling is and take care of the source of the decay, then give it a coat or two of a rust converter and a seal coat to keep it from coming back.

[@2coolartsmusicmom572]

@@v.e.7236 ok thanks. I have a dremel I could use I think. What kind of rust converter do you think is best ...the Ospho? Thanks for responding...

[@michaelclark6865]

I used Ospho on my rusty roof of my car. sanded well, wiped, cleaned, applied 2 coats of Ospho liberally. Primed and rust came back from underneath.

[@gunshipproduct2]

Fantastic testing methods. I'm certainly curious as to the effectiveness of top coats for these. Has your friend in the coating business ever mentioned a hardy, industrial coating for rusted surfaces? If that is too naive, then perhaps a hardy coating for a prepped surface?

[@AlwaysBeSmart674]

Bedliner

[@79huddy]

Kem kromik primer and 2 part swimming pool epoxy works pretty dang good

[@briizcustoms9543]

@@79huddyGot any pictures?

[@lynndragoman2454]

I've been following your work for decades now along with your decades of rust knowledge. And like you I am also 14 years old

[@vicferrari9380]

Joking.. you know how long a decade is?

[@lynndragoman2454]

​@@vicferrari9380KZbin expert time

[@lynndragoman2454]

​@vicferrari9380 his age plus 4 years?

[@USdefender1]

I really thought Ospho was going to win hands down.

[@boeldridge8371]

So for surface on a truck frame it appears the rust cutter should work! Is it just spray on a leave it ??

[@Ram14250]

Excellent testing and excellent work! Your results can be trusted IMO! Thank you!!

[@peterlafayette5595]

No insult intended, you did good boy. I appreciate your knowledge. And I applaud how you whipped one on us when you did an actual rear axel. Your a clever young man.

[@valvodka]

Learn grammar

[@MCJustme]

you should get a lav mic or shotgun mic to mitigate the effect of all your room's reverb

[@svendtveskg5719]

Good and thorough video. But I have to say, that the normal Rust-Oleum rustwandler - the bottle doesn't look like the one you have - makes a H.. of a differnce here in Denmark, Scandinavia, where it's very humid always and the roads are covered in salt every winter. I can't explain why, but for instance stone chips and edge rust repairs will last years longer when treated. And, besides that, I think a 2,5 kilo ball dropped onto any laquer will leave a serious mark. And try to press a piece of duct tape onto a brand new car and see what happens when you pull it off...

[@chas.fournet1087]

(paused vid at 1:59) Sir, I really appreciate your effort... what a great premise overall for assessing these products! Gotta ask a question before I can watch any more: Did you also 'prep' them per labels prior to 'coating them in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions written on each container'? You did not specify. (No snarkiness intended.. I have to ascertain whether this is an accurate test right away before continuing... I'm sure you understand.) Thanks!

[@rvmagnum5415]

I used a product called rust mortifier . It was a quarter size deep rust spot, I sanded the spot and coated it with rust mort. didn't paint over it. the bronco sat in my yard for 20 years till I junked it. the only spot that didn't rot was the spot I treated and never got around to painting it. These products don't work on surface rust which is what you had , they won't stick to bare metal .

[@juliemardock4592]

Great review! I have an old rusty jeep as my beach mobile and I hate seeing her deteriorate but don't have the $$ to send her to the "salon". So I was looking for a product I could use myself and still have sufficient results. My idea is to use the Rust Cutter first and then VHT before painting.

[@rickberes7329]

Would you recommend using rust cutter to convert the rust and then applying blaster surface shield?

[@jonathantheunacceptable4259]

Use rust kutter with a brush, it's so thick that the spray nozzles don't work well. Also, it has acid, so you don't want to be freely spraying it around most times. I only use kutter on areas where I need it to stick, if it's a flat or pretty clean surface I prefer por15 rust converter, basically just acid and very watery. Then if I'm painting the surface I use por15 encapsulater as a prime coat before using filler primer, then paint prep... I hate living up north lol

[@madman-ym7nw]

Just removed vht that was put on 4 years ago and there was a significant amount of rust scaling under the vht you would have never known it just by looking at it but it would eventually lift after the rust scaling separated

[@alexandru1104]

Before using these products it is recomended to remove the rust with a metal brush, then apply the product and then epoxy prime and paint. Anyway thanks for the VHT product review, I ll try it!